Battery Life-Wireless headsets
I picked up the wonderful nano on Saturday. Charged it fully and then used my wireless headset..got about 6 hours of playtime. Called Apple and they said to return it to where I bought it from. Got a new one on Monday and it did the same thing again. I hope Apple can add Bluetooth to the nano, and extend the battery life. Anyone else have this issue?
The battery in the thing is minuscule, there's not a whole lot you can do to improve battery, except turn off EQ, and lower screen brightness. I suspect it's your wireless headphones that are using your battery up, as simple things do on this nano, ie. FM radio or lots of device interaction will also land you about 6 hours playtime. Try with wired headphones and see what you get.
Similar Messages
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Wow wireless headset battery life
so my battery life has massively degraded after having this unit since it first came out
i started the charge last night after our raid, didn't pull off charge until raid this afternoon and the battery died after 2 hrs.
yesterday i had the same situation and just thought i didnt have it charged all the way.
any ideas whats going on here? I paid extra for the wireless for a reason, but it seems im already tethered to a wire after such a short time.Apple doesn't make the batteries. Most likely they come from Sony. There's plenty of research in battery technology, but you wouldn't be willing to pay what that technology would currently cost. If they provided a bigger battery the computer would weigh more, and then you'd be complaining that it isn't portable enough (not necessarily you personally.)
There's a tradeoff between weight, size, and power. Your 17" model weighs 6.8 pounds. Your new one weighs 5.5 pounds. Where would that big battery on your old computer go? The new one is thinner, stronger, has two GPUs, a faster (or newer) processor, user-replaceable hard drive and memory, thin and bright screen. And here you are complaining about battery life. Use some more aggressive power features, and no doubt you can squeeze 3.5 hours out of it. Or, you could just lug that 17" battleship around with you. After all it's only 1.3 pounds heavier. I won't mention the other missing features. Or depending upon your particular usage you could plug in the AC adaptor. I rarely use the battery on any of my laptops. -
Wireless driver triggers warm/hot macbook and low battery life after OS 10.8 mountain lion upgrade
Hello frustrated Macbook users.
I have tried to get help on other Apple discussions but no one seems to want to help, they aren't actually reading my posts, or they hate me for some reason.
No matter.
If you have a warm Macbook that has 2.5 hours of battery life where you used to have 4 or more, please do this simple procedure and write the result below.
Turn OFF Airport wireless networking
Perform an SMC reset (Power Manager)
Connect an ethernet cable and use your Macbook normally. (but do NOT turn on wireless networking again)
How is your battery life after doing this?
I have a user over here who reclaimed decent battery performance if he doesn't use his Airport wireless.
I need confirmation.
If so, I may get a USB wireless adapter and see if the battery life stays good.
Bonus points: If you have a Mac compatible USB wireless adapter and got good results by turning off the built-in adapter, want to test it for me and report the results?
Thanks and good luck!
meta: short time install snow leopard hours overheating shorter shortened lowerUPDATE:
Problem persists when using Recovery Partition.
Chance sthat it is third party softwae or updates is more or less eliminated.
Update 10.8.3 beta fixed the problem for one lucky early adopter.
Hypothesis: New battery charging algorithms programmed into Mountain Lion OS10.8 triggered problems from design flaws that were NOT an issue for OS 10.7 and before.
Battery replacements were successful where the replacement battery was built within tolerances that did not fail under 10.8's new charging algorithms. Other bateries did not meet those tolerances so you would get spotty results from battery replacements. It worked sometimes, but not always.
OS 10.8.3 may have adjusted these algorithms to be less demanding on the features of the battery that were failing.
Official word from Apple is 'mum'. -
New wireless Keyboard with terrible battery life
Is this how they all work?
I recently bought a wireless keyboard for my mac mini that's in a closet functioning as a media server. It seems that the battery life is terrible. I used the keyboard for about one hour one day and didn't touch the device for two weeks. After this two week interlude the batteries were dead. This is the 2nd time I have noticed this.
So should I remove the batteries when not using the keyboard. I can't seem to tell if the keyboard is on or off by pushing the button since the keyboard light doesn't stay on when in use.
I have other wireless keyboards that seem to have battery life that go and go and goOne Possible EXPLANATION For Apple Wireless Keyboards Or Mice GOING THROUGH BATTERIES In A Matter Of Weeks is as follows:
When you shut down or sleep your Mac, if there is a second Mac running at some distance away (up to 100 meters distance), and this distant Mac has bluetooth switched on, and was, for some reason, previously been paired with your wireless keyboard or mouse, then I believe the keyboard or mousewill try to link to the distant Mac after you have shut down the local Mac, using all its available transmission power to overcome the distance, and thereby wearing down the batteries.
This happened to me. I have two Macs in the house, and paired my new wireless keyboard with both computers, just so that I could use this keyboard with either Mac.
But when I shut down the Mac I was using, without me realizing, my wireless keyboard that I had in front of me would then link up to my other distant Mac (which was usually always running), located at the other side of my house, and in doing so, my wireless keyboard would wear out its batteries in weeks from the power drain due to long distance transmission and reception.
Whether this battery draining from long distance transmission and reception can also occur when the wireless keyboard or mouse has not been paired with the distant Mac, I am not sure. It's conceivable that in the bluetooth polling mode, where the distant computer is trying to link up to the wireless keyboard or mouse, there could also be substantial power draining from long distance transmission and reception (especially if bluetooth is set to discoverable).
Someone may want to test this: seeing if bluetooth polling over distance can drain power. Who knows, it may be that your neighbor has a Mac, and so when you switch off your computer, your wireless keyboard or mouse spends all night trying to link to your neighbor's Mac. -
I find my wireless bluetooth iMAC keyboard has low battery life
Hi, my wireless Apple Keyboard went from 43% to 19% battery life in one day ! IS this normal ?? Using it with my 27" iMAC and magic mouse.
I too am having the same problem with my wireless Apple Mighty Mouse. I bought it at the end of January, 2012 and love the thing, but after totally charging some rechargeable Duracell batteries (2450 mAh) they last about 4 days!? I wonder if this is just something we have to live with???
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Apple Bluetooth headset battery life indicator drops VERY rapidly
hi all. Just bought the apple Bluetooth headset yesterday. After it is fully charged the battery life indicator drops to half after only being on stanby for about 15 minutes. I tried fully draining it and recharging but no difference. Is this normal? Thanks.
Same issue on two "old" (with dock) Apple BT Headsets purchased on 3G release day. Returned and exchanged for 2 "new" ones (no dock, $30 refund) two weeks later. The new headsets have the same abysmal battery life. Note, however, that the battery life indicator is not terribly accurate - after dropping into the red by the end of the day, if left on standby mine doesn't actually run out of power and shut down for almost 48 hours.
IMHO, if you like the easy pairing and can charge your Apple BT Headset at some point during the day (I used one of the $30 refunds to buy an extra travel cable for work), keep it. If you need to go all day and use the headset heavily, get a different brand.
Hope this helps... -
What follows is a grouping of some of the most fruitful procedures - from what I've seen in the biggest battery life issue thread - and some background information and discussion for solving or improving the battery life with the iPhone 4S and may be applicable also to devices on which iOS 5.0/5.0.1 has been applied. Credit goes to the respective users who contributed this information to the forum and they should be commended for doing so. This is not a final listing. The goal here is to provide a first stop sort of knowledge base document for newcomers instead of having them perusing the never ending threads where the wheel is reinvented on every page...
Please don't post your questions, usage screenshots, or claims that it worked or not for you or anything here except PROCEDURES/DEBUG STEPS/SOLUTIONS or improvements to the procedures already listed here. Try to use point form and to be as concise and clear as possible. Hope all this helps.
Thank you and good luck!
General info and specs
First, take a look Apple's battery tips, info and specs(obligatory reading for all Iphone 4S users - read it once and for all):
http://www.apple.com/batteries/iphone.html
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
... you didn't read it? loll Always remember this i.e. the definition of "usage":
Usage: Amount of time iPhone has been awake and in use since the last full charge. The phone is awake when you’re on a call, using email, listening to music, browsing the web, or sending and receiving text messages, or during certain background tasks such as auto-checking email.
I'm still not convinced you read the links so here's what Apple has to say in terms of fine tuning your battery life:
Optimize your settings
Depending on how they are configured, a few features may decrease your iPhone battery life. For example, the frequency with which you retrieve email and the number of email accounts you auto-check can both affect battery life. The tips below apply to an iPhone running iOS 5.0 or later and may help extend your battery life.
Minimize use of location services: Applications that actively use location services such as Maps may reduce battery life. To disable location services, go to Settings > General > Location Services or use location services only when needed.
Turn off push notifications: Some applications from the App Store use the Apple Push Notification service to alert you of new data. Applications that extensively rely on push notifications (such as instant messaging applications) may impact battery life. To disable push notifications, go to Settings > Notifications and set Notifications to Off. Note that this does not prevent new data from being received when the application is opened. Also, the Notifications setting will not be visible if you do not have any applications installed that support push notifications.
Fetch new data less frequently: Applications such as Mail can be set to fetch data wirelessly at specific intervals. The more frequently email or other data is fetched, the quicker your battery may drain. To fetch new data manually, from the Home screen choose Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and tap Manually. To increase the fetch interval, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and tap Hourly. Note that this is a global setting and applies to all applications that do not support push services.
Turn off push mail: If you have a push mail account such as Yahoo! or Microsoft Exchange, turn off push when you don’t need it. Go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and set Push to Off. Messages sent to your push email accounts will now be received on your phone based on the global Fetch setting rather than as they arrive.
Auto-check fewer email accounts: You can save power by checking fewer email accounts. This can be accomplished by turning off an email account or by deleting it. To turn off an account, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars, choose an email account, and set Account to Off. To remove an account, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars, choose an email account, and tap Delete Account.
Turn off Wi-Fi: If you rarely use Wi-Fi, you can turn it off to save power. Go to Settings > Wi-Fi and set Wi-Fi to Off. Note that if you frequently use your iPhone to browse the web, battery life may be improved by using Wi-Fi instead of cellular data networks.
Turn off Bluetooth: If you rarely use a Bluetooth headset or car kit, you can turn off Bluetooth to save power. Go to Settings > General > Bluetooth and set Bluetooth to Off.
Use Airplane Mode in low- or no-coverage areas: Because your iPhone always tries to maintain a connection with the cellular network, it may use more power in low- or no-coverage areas. Turning on Airplane Mode can increase battery life in these situations; however, you will be unable to make or receive calls. To turn on Airplane Mode, go to Settings and set Airplane Mode to On.
Adjust brightness: Dimming the screen is another way to extend battery life. Go to Settings > Brightness and drag the slider to the left to lower the default screen brightness. In addition, turning on Auto-Brightness allows the screen to adjust its brightness based on current lighting conditions. Go to Settings > Brightness and set Auto-Brightness to On.
Turn off EQ: Applying an equalizer setting to song playback on your iPhone can decrease battery life. To turn EQ off, go to Settings > iPod > EQ and tap Off. Note that if you’ve added EQ to songs directly in iTunes, you’ll need to set EQ on iPhone to Flat in order to have the same effect as Off because iPhone keeps your iTunes settings intact. Go to Settings > iPod > EQ and tap Flat.
Usage specs for the 4S - http://www.apple.com/iphone/specs.html:
Talk time: Up to 8 hours (12.5% per hour drain) on 3G, up to 14 hours (7.1% per hour drain) on 2G (GSM)
Standby time: Up to 200 hours (0.5% per hour drain)
Internet use: Up to 6 hours on 3G (16.6% per hour drain), up to 9 hours (11.1% per hour drain) on Wi-Fi
Video playback: Up to 10 hours (10% per hour drain)
Audio playback: Up to 40 hours (2.5% per hour drain)
So a scenario of normal usage could be for example: 4 heavy hours of 3G internet browsing (66.4%), with one hour of call on 3G (12.5%) and 22 hours of standby (11%) = 100%
A battery life issue is a problem where the drain is really out of spec either during usage or standby or both. For example, multi-% per minute drain during usage or a 10% drain per hour during standby is problematic. Browsing the internet on 3G during one hour and losing 16-17% is not.
Apple's test methodology for claiming the specs:
http://www.apple.com/iphone/battery.html
Procedures
davidch tips (reset+full discharge recharge):
Go through these steps to address the battery after updating to iOS 5.0.1:
1. Reset all settings (settings app-> general-> reset)
2. Go through initial setup steps (lang, wifi, siri, enable location, etc) and choose setup as new phone (don't worry your apps, data, contacts, mail will still be there). Do NOT restore from iCloud or iTunes (It can copy back corrupt settings)
3. Turn off system location services timezone and iAd
4. Fully discharge battery (tilll it shuts off with the spinning wheel)
5. Fully recharge battery (overnight if possible)
In my experience this improves the Standby battery drain issue significantly in most cases. It reduces drain from 2-4% or more per hr to 0.5% or less. It has worked for many, many users now. If it does not work after a few try's you may have a real battery or hardware issue and should contact Apple. Good Luck!
ram130's variant of davidch i.e. additional steps:
Now using davidch original steps and attaching the tweaks I made to get me more usage. As shown on page 29.
Go through these steps to address the battery after updating to iOS 5.0.1:
1. Reset all settings (settings app-> general-> reset)
2. Go through initial setup steps (lang, wifi, siri, enable location, etc) and choose setup as new phone (don't worry your apps, data, contacts, mail will still be there). Do NOT restore from iCloud or iTunes (It can copy back corrupt settings)
3. Turn off system location services timezone and iAd
4. Fully discharge battery (till it shuts off with the spinning wheel)
5. Fully recharge battery (overnight if possible)
6. Disable Siri 'Raise To Speak' and REBOOT *( if possible use another camera to verify the infrared is off after the reboot).
7. Set emails, icloud and calendars to fetch. ** test. Mines on hourly.
8. If your in a no signal and your phone is saying "Searching..." even after 10mins, reboot while in that area and after 1-2min it should say "No Service". This mainly applies to Verizon customers and improve battery life in these areas.
9. *optional* Goto Settings > General > Network and you will see "Hotspot.." loading something, wait a few seconds and it should say "setup personal hotspot" then exit out.
* I notice a great improvement after disabling this and rebooting. This increased my "screen on" usage or at least helped it. Make the change.
** I have not tested push yet to narrow down the drain but I had this change on my phone. I believe exchange push is responsible for some stand by drain. As for icloud, haven't notice much of a difference. Just try it for a day. My email still came in fast most times. Again still testing, will report back on these..
buxbuster tips(wifi sync, iCloud):
These are my own tested workarounds that worked for my iPhone 4S and seemed to have worked for others as well :
Workaround number 1. Deselect wifi-sync in iTunes and press sync.
If that doesn't work try :
Workaround number 2 : Remove iCloud, reset network settings. ( I guess this won't work for you since you don't have it enabled ).
If both workarounds fail, you can always try to completely wipe your phone. That also solved some of the cases out there.
rolandomerida tips - i.e. buxbuster and additional steps:
Finally, I solved the syncing error loop. My contacts are syncing flawessly again between my devices and iCloud, and yes, the battery stopped draining, which is the main topic here.
I followed instructions from buxbuster (check his workaround a few pages up!) and an additional BIG step to restore contacts and syncing, as seen in a MacRumors forum.
This is what I did:
1. Make a backup of your Address Book, using the vCard option (or both, it doesn't hurt). Save it for later.
2. In your iPhone, delete iCloud account. When it asks, accept both: delete AND delete from my iPhone.
3. Reset network settings. The iPhone will restart, then will ask you to unlock the SIM card.
4.Turn Wi-Fi on.
5. Add the iCloud account again.
That's for Buxbuster's workaround. For some, it might work just like that. My iPhone repopulated from iCloud after step 5, but I still had that "server error" on iCloud. I had to do some extra steps, since my Mac was not syncing to iCloud and couldn't edit anything on my Mac or iCloud. Syncing back had to be fixed, too. If not, the syncing loop would continue from my iPhone, and the battery would drain awfully again.
1. In System Preferences -> iCloud, I turned Contacts off. I chose "keep on My Mac" those contacts, but I got an empty Address Book after a while. And a few minutes later, iCloud contacts were empty and my iPhone also. It is scary at first! Now, before importing that vCard backup...
2. Turn Wi-Fi off. This is important, since your contact-empty iCloud will attempt to wipe your Address Book from your Mac in seconds after importing.
3. Import your vCard backup to Address Book. Just drag it to your blank Address Book window; it asks if you want to import "x" number of cards. Of course, say yes.
4. Turn Wi-Fi on, and then iCloud contacts on again (System Preferences -> iCloud). It will offer to merge your newly populated Address Book with iCloud (which is empty at this point). It should upload every single contact to iCloud, and then to your iDevices. If not, a fifth step would be to import the vCard file to iCloud, but it shouldn't be necessary.
So, with iCloud syncing working correctly, there is no battery draining! Again, that was my particular issue.
I can't tell if this is the single answer to the widely spread battery draining problem, but it sure can be fixed with these workarounds, and yes, Apple should address the problem with a future update, for we affected customers don't need workarounds in the first place
This is the MacRumors discussion:
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1256807
And dont' forget to check buxbuster's fix, video, and THANK him!
Miless tips (full 800mb release of 5.0.1 and sanitizing a restore):
As for 4S battery life. Try doing this,
1. Settings>Location Service ... disable all location services you do not need. In particularly Facebook because it drains the battery a lot.
Scroll down to the bottom at Settings>Location services>System Services ... Disable Setting Time zone, location based iAds, Diagnostic & Usage.
2. Settings>Notification>Calendar ... turn off the Notification Centre.
3. Settings>General>Reset ... do Reset All Settings. Doing this will not wipe out your iPhone. It will just Reset the network settings, location warning, keyboard dictionary, etc... but it will clear up some corrupted data there. Generally this will help.
Try these 3 steps first... if it still drains a lot, try the following,
4. Drain your battery down to 1%. Then charge it up using USB from PC ... not the charger. The charger output 1.0 A ( x 5V from USB ... you get 5W power). From PC, output is only 0.5A x 5V = 2.5W power. Charging is slower but trickle charge 4S helps the battery retain its charge better. I think it takes about 3-3.5 hours to charge full from USB/PC compared to slightly below 2 hours using iPhone charger.
If after doing the above still could not solve your battery issues (mine with iOS 5.0 was ok up to step 4, but not iOS 5.0.1).... plug you iPhone to a charger (any charger), from iPhone, access your iCloud ... set it up if you havent. Back up your iPhone data to iCloud. if you do not have enough storage (only 5GB is free), go to details and select the apps you need its data backup, choose only those you really need and leave those unnecessary ones out. Back up your camera roll to your PC/Mac manually as it could be too big to backup to iCloud.... once you have it setup, make sure you are on Wifi ... tap backup to iCloud from your iPhone. It will take a while if the file is huge.
Once backup to iCloud is completed, plug your iPhone to PC/Mac and launch iTunes 10.5.1 (make sure you have 10.5.1)
Click Restore. It will automatically initiate a download of iOS 5.0.1 ipsw for iPhone 4S. Wait for the whole process to finish, ie. download, restore software/firmware.
Once its done, do not set up your iPhone from iTunes. Set it up on your iPhone. Go through the selection. When prompted, select restore from iCloud (from your iphone backup earlier). Keep your iphone plugged into iTunes while restoring backup from iCloud. Because while restoring from iClouds, some data will be synced from iTunes if you plug in, e.g. music, video, etc... unless you bought these content from iTunes store. Apps will be downloaded from App Store from the cloud.
Once it's all done restored. Turn off your iPhone,.. and turn it on again.
Now, hopefully your battery wont be draining so fast anymore. Usually it wont after this. But you need to charge your battery at least 4-5 cycles to stabilize the charge on the battery. I dont know why... but battery life seems to get better and better for me after a few charge cycles after all the above work.
Good luck. Let us know if it works for you.
W. Raider tips (Sirii):
Bottom line for me of things that helped battery life are:
1. Turing off Siri and Rebooting the phone by holding the Home button and Top button down, ignoring the slider, until the phone shut down. (turn off Siri, reboot, and check top front of iPhone 4S against a lesser camera like the front-facing camera on an iPad2 - making sure the IR sensor is off)
2. Fully draining the battery, meaning using the phone until it shuts itself off from a drained battery and then recharging it to 100% about 4, maybe 5 times. I charged it both with a Mac and a wall charger.
Hope this is helpful!
Comments
jmm514 remarks (Twitter):
I may have found something. I had Twitter disabled in my notifications, but got a tweet today that popped up on my home screen. Didn't know I had this enabled. At the bottom of the Twitter notification settings is the home scrren toggle. Since disabling this, battery life seems better. Considering there is no setting for frequency of checking for tweets, it appears the phone is continually connecting to wifi to check for new tweets.
tmksnyder comments (notifications, corrupt data in iCloud):
For me, I found my iphone on wifi mysteriously connecting to my mac. I eventually narrowed it down to the Apple Move Trailers app which keeps a file in iCloud. The phone was trying to sync the file with the mac in the background even when the Movie Trailers app was closed (hitting the red x). Based on my macosx logs the iCloud process that was trying to sync was working directly between the phone and the mac without using itunes by connecting to an https address hosted on the phone. It was connecting every 3 minutes and failing (while phone was awake or awake during during a notification). I also found that iCloud control panel on OSX would error if I tried to delete the file. I fixed it by removing the App and doing a hard reset which stopped the sync. I probably could have turned off iCloud document sync in the phone but didn't think of that. My battery life has greatly improved while at home on wifi. I am now at 28 hrs standby, 2 hrs 20 minutes of usage, and 68% battery. It was ok before where I could get 20-30 hrs standby and 6 -8 hrs usage. My usage today was phone calls, 3g surfing, and music via bluetooth in the car.
I also found even with Itunes iMatch, if I mass updated tages, art work etc, it would hit the phone on wifi even in standby. I was amazed. Granted if I am not doing updates, Match won't hot the phone so this was a once in awhile event. I could drop my percentage by 5-10% in a matter of minutes when doing updates. I think a lot of our problems are background processes, associated with iCloud, notification, and apps. More features means more battery. I think the key thing is to keep track of what has recently been added or changed if battery life gets worse all of a sudden. It may be an app that was recently installed and if possible you may want to completely remove it and not just quit it.
With twitter, i think it uses push notifications so it doesn't need to be running and actively poll on the phone. For instance , if i quit the mail app, i still will get mail notifications and can swipe the message and load mail. Apple Push Notifications servics maintain the connection to the phone and there are likely pings or connection checks that occur for the service on an os level not an app level. This minimizes the load so there arent a bunch of apps all runing and constantly checking. The notification service , if it is contacted from twitter or another service with data, will check the settings you have registered to the with the apple push service and send the notification to your phone. No matter what, there is a drain with notifications. M hunch is once one application is configured to receive notifications, connection checking occurs betwen the push service and the phone so it knows where it is on the network. If it is implemented correctly, these checks arent frequent if you are still and more frequent as you move. The other drain is for when the noification hits and is processsed. If i get 9 emails over night, my screen just popped up for 20 seconds or so to process each message using battery. I would even think that just go from low power to turning n the screen uses more juice than if the device was already on and i get the message. On nights I get no notifications, I see a 3 or 4 percent drop. On nights with a number of notifications, i have seen up to a 10 percent drop. Besides notifications, wifi sync and icloud will poll on the local network and use up battery if the host computer is on and running itunes or trying to sync a data file that is corrupt (which i had with the apple movie trailers app causing my phone to drain). For me turning off wifi sync and remving a corrupt file in icloud solved my battery issues and I get over 24 hrs of standby with 6 to 9 hrs of use and this is with all the normal location services and push serivices turned on.
See http://developer.apple.com/library/mac/ipad/#documentation/NetworkingInternet/Co nceptual/RemoteNotificationsPG/ApplePushService/ApplePushService.html for more info. I think it has a good overview of how the notifications work.Well seems like that rumor of iOS 5.0.1 is finally gone the way of the dogs since developers got a beta of 5.1. So as stated earlier in the master discussion-> I suspect if you are filling up this thread with false post or creating a master set of links to various post that are unreliable you are wasting your time. Press is not going to touch the story due to poor or inaccurate sources which may be links from the master thread. This can include inaccurate information, combination of conflicting post or postings from users which may not own the device. Reputable press organizations have policies that require discloser and strict rules about what is a reliable source for a story. It is clear that many of the post in the master thread, which are links presented here are questionable.
Sorry to say that postings taken without any analysis of their totality have been propagated via various sites, for example sites such as http://www.2012federalbudget(dot)com. (Do not visit but I suspect that this is not the 2012 federal-budget site you would expect based on analysis of the records. There are plenty of sites like http://www.2012federalbudget(dot)com propagating questionable post in these threads.) One site for example in the discussion thread used a self signed certificate, the site had a log in to allow users to enter their OpenID. Seems many of these sites are pop and drop drupel configurations.
So remember this is how the really bad rumor of iOS 5.0.2 got started, the 5.1 memory leak issue, iCloud Issues, call quality, address book, etc.
Some of the postings have been very comical, I think the latest now is a dropbox issue. Seems that the length of the previous thread has resulted in various app engines of some proxy servers/tools reaching their limits.
So I would make sure to know the source of any information you link to. Make sure you avoid entering any information to outside links such as OpenID or Apple ID, these are big prize items for anyone with malicious intent. If you have issues and are a valid user contact APPLE CARE. (Note link is using McAfee Secure Short URL Service, and is https.)
http://mcaf.ee/ricdt
The original solution still represents a high level of success for users having any battery issues.
Install 5.0.1 on your iPhone 4s. Some users posting they are still using older versions, bad fake serial numbers, etc.
Make sure your device can run iOS 5.0.1 and is not altered.
Make sure you use a new Sim, not some cut down version which many users admit to doing. (Again, worth confirming what people are posting.)
Reset the device doing a hard reset and software reset.
Let battery drain and then charge for the full cycle, which is 24 hours.
I think you will find you will get the battery usage that APPLE has stated for the device.
Best of luck, stay safe and thanks -
Save and Protect your iPad Device: How to Save and Prolong the battery life of your new ipad
Please, as you read add more answers to this on how to prolong and save your ipad battery life. Thank you
Saving the battery life of your iPad
1.Keep Your iDevice Out of the Sun
Whatever you do, don’t leave your iPhone or iPod sitting in a hot car—heat kills batteries faster than any other factor, and your device that used to keep a charge for hours will eventually barely hold a charge, and you’ll have to pay Apple to get it replaced. The same thing holds true for any really hot environment: try and store your device in a cool place.
Reduce the Screen Brightness
If you keep the screen at maximum brightness all the time, you’re wasting a lot of battery life—and the screens these days are so bright anyway that you don’t really need to, especially at night. Head into Settings -> Brightness & Wallpaper to adjust the default level of brightness, which you can probably keep as low as 30% most of the time.
2. Make Sure the Screen Locks Quickly
Even if you’ve adjusted the screen brightness, there’s still no substitute for having it turn off quickly when you’re not using it. Head into General -> Auto-Lock to set the screen lock to happen as quickly as your device will let you. This makes a big difference if you are always picking up your phone and putting it back into your pocket without turning the display off.
3. Use Airplane Mode When You Don’t Need Internet (iPad/iPhone)
If you’re busy spending the next 8 hours playing Angry Birds, there might not be a good reason to have internet access, so you can consider using Airplane Mode, which turns off both Wi-Fi and the regular wireless radio. Of course, this will prevent phone calls if you’re on an iPhone—but if you’re busy with Angry Birds you probably don’t want the interruption anyway.
4. The more important reason to use Airplane Mode is when you’re mobile in an area with a really spotty connection—because the iPhone or iPad will try to stay connected at all times, it’s going to be constantly searching for a connection, which can drain your battery. Head into Settings and flip the Airplane Mode switch right up at the top of the screen.
Use Wi-Fi Instead of 3G if Possible
According to Apple, the iPad will get 10 hours of battery life under regular use with Wi-Fi enabled, but will only get 9 hours using 3G—the iPhone gets 6 for 3G and 10 for Wi-Fi. Of course, if you’re heavily using the Wi-Fi, you’ll still be draining the battery—the point is under similar workloads, Wi-Fi is better than 3G for battery life.
You can enable Wi-Fi under Settings -> Wi-Fi, and then pick the network you’d like to connect to.
5. Reduce or Eliminate Mail & Calendar Checking
If you’ve got a bunch of email, calendar, or contact accounts configured, and they are all being checked and downloading email on a regular basis, you’ll be draining the battery an awful lot faster than you need to.
Head into Settings -> Mail, Contacts, Calendars -> Fetch New Data and change the setting to the least frequent check possible. If you don’t use it often, you can just turn Push off entirely and then manually check when you need to.
6. Reduce or Eliminate Push Notifications
Do you really need notifications from Twitter or whatever other apps you’re running? You can turn these off one-by-one, or turn off Push entirely by heading into Settings -> Notifications, and save a bit of extra battery life since your device won’t be pulling in data for those applications anymore.
7. Reduce or Eliminate System Sounds
This one is probably a little silly, but if you really don’t care for the system sounds you can save a small amount of battery life by removing the sounds. A very, very small amount, most likely. Head into Settings -> General -> Sounds to change them.
8. Disable Location Services
If you don’t really need the location services, you can disable them to save some battery life. Head into Settings -> General and flip the Location Services setting to off.
9. Disable Bluetooth If You Don’t Need It
If you don’t use a Bluetooth headset or keyboard, you should keep the Bluetooth radio disabled to save some extra battery life. Head into Settings -> General -> Bluetooth to flip it on or off.
10. Disable Vibrate Feature in Games
If you’ve got a game that uses the vibrate feature, you can turn that off to save some battery life. This mostly matters if the game heavily uses it, and you’ll need to change the setting for the game. As a side note, and it should go without saying, if you’re running really intensive video games, they will kill your battery very quickly.
11. Charge and Discharge Your Battery Regularly
Your iDevice needs to be fully discharged and recharged at least once a month to operate at maximum efficiency and keep the battery from dying. You’ll also want to make sure that you don’t store the device with a dead battery, as that can also cause the battery to lose charge capability—when your battery dies, make sure to recharge it quickly.
<Edited by Host>
Irem Bright writes and would love your own addition if you got other helpful tips.
Thank you all.11. Charge and Discharge Your Battery Regularly
Your iDevice needs to be fully discharged and recharged at least once a month to operate at maximum efficiency and keep the battery from dying. You’ll also want to make sure that you don’t store the device with a dead battery, as that can also cause the battery to lose charge capability—when your battery dies, make sure to recharge itquickly
The reason that Apple suggests you drain and recharge your battery once a month is not because it affects the life ofthe battery. What it actually does is calibrate the battery sensor, giving you a more accurate reading.
Other than that, you done an admirable job of summarizing the Knowledge Base article:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/ipad.html
Best of luck. -
Does the UK version of the Beats By Dre Studio 2.0 Wireless Headset include a cleaning cloth?
Welcome to the Apple Discussions!
My battery had not been fully recharging for a while. For weeks, it would "max out" at a lower percentage, lowering incrementally pretty much weekly. No, I am not eligible for the recall.
Besides your other issues, it may simply be time for a new battery. The batteries not only have a limited number of complete charge cycles, they also have a shelf life that could expire even if you've never used it. Here is a little bit of information from Apple on batteries:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
As far as your hard drive is considered, I'm guessing you don't have an AppleCare Protection Plan? It really does sound like the hard drive is failing. Have you started up from your Apple Hardware Test disk yet and run the extended tests?
If you decide to replace your hard drive that's out of warranty, you just need a 2.5" IDE/ATA hard drive that's less than 9.5mm tall. (This is a standard configuration for notebooks.) While it's possible to install yourself, it's quite the operation and you may want to take your iBook to an Apple Authorized Service Provider to do it for you. Or you might consider sending your iBook in to a service like MCE Technologies to do it for you.
-Doug -
Inquiry: Skype certified wireless headset
Hi,
I am looking for a wireless headset, compatible with skype, preferably has noise cancelling feature and descent amount of battery life for desktop use. At the moment I am using Plantronics BackBeat Go2 which does not comply with Skype; somehow the microphone does not work.
Does anybody have experience to shared?
Regards,
Nala JatiJohn, I've played with two bluetooth headsets... One from Jabra, and more recently a BT400 G5 from Radtech. They work, but had to constantly re-pair them, and the sound quality wasn't great, especially if I was more than about 6 feet from my PB. I'm back to using a Plantronics USB corded headset, they have a couple different types, very comfortable, depending on how portable you want it.
The search function on the board isn't working right now, I would guess they will have it back working soon... Try searching the Bluetooth section, as I recall there was a bunch of info posted there. -
I have a mid-2012 Macbook air and I've noticed recently my battery life is horrible. I've read every single other thread about this issue but nothing really helped and even the most recent is from a couple of years ago. Obviously now it's 2015 and my macbook is running on Yosemite, so its not the battery issue that everyone seemed to have with Mavericks.
Just writing that small section I went from 73% to 68% and at the current 68% I only get an estimated 2 hours and 10 minutes remaining. I've also had only Safari running this whole time.
Option clicking the battery icon reveals that the condition is normal, as well as the power system report. It also has gone through only 441 cycles, no where near its 1000 cycle "limit" and its health is already down to 77%. While obviously the condition is normal and doesn't say I need to replace the battery I feel that I should, based off of everything else.Have macbook air from mid 2012 - I installed Yosemite November 2014 and since then I'm having problem with my battery - it has been draining super fast - 4hrs battery life now compared to earlier 8hrs.
I reinstalled Yosemite, didn’t help and then made a clean reinstallation of Yosemite about 5 days ago and there is still the same drain issue.
Thank you in advance!
Here is the Etre Check Report:
Problem description:
The battery has been draining super fast - 4hrs battery life now compared to earlier 8hrs.
EtreCheck version: 2.2 (132)
Report generated 5/2/15, 8:02 PM
Download EtreCheck from http://etresoft.com/etrecheck
Click the [Click for support] links for help with non-Apple products.
Click the [Click for details] links for more information about that line.
Hardware Information: ℹ️
MacBook Air (13-inch, Mid 2012) (Technical Specifications)
MacBook Air - model: MacBookAir5,2
1 1.8 GHz Intel Core i5 CPU: 2-core
8 GB RAM Not upgradeable
BANK 0/DIMM0
4 GB DDR3 1600 MHz ok
BANK 1/DIMM0
4 GB DDR3 1600 MHz ok
Bluetooth: Good - Handoff/Airdrop2 supported
Wireless: en0: 802.11 a/b/g/n
Battery: Health = Normal - Cycle count = 341 - SN = D8622840AXXDKRNAA
Video Information: ℹ️
Intel HD Graphics 4000
Color LCD 1440 x 900
System Software: ℹ️
OS X 10.10.3 (14D136) - Time since boot: 10:53:27
Disk Information: ℹ️
APPLE SSD TS128E disk0 : (121.33 GB)
EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted> : 210 MB
Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted> [Recovery]: 650 MB
Macintosh HD (disk1) / : 120.11 GB (105.35 GB free)
Encrypted AES-XTS Unlocked
Core Storage: disk0s2 120.47 GB Online
USB Information: ℹ️
Apple Inc. FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in)
Apple Inc. Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad
Apple Internal Memory Card Reader
Apple Inc. BRCM20702 Hub
Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
Thunderbolt Information: ℹ️
Apple Inc. thunderbolt_bus
Gatekeeper: ℹ️
Mac App Store and identified developers
Problem System Launch Daemons: ℹ️
[failed] com.apple.mtrecorder.plist
Launch Daemons: ℹ️
[loaded] com.adobe.fpsaud.plist [Click for support]
[failed] com.apple.spirecorder.plist
User Login Items: ℹ️
iTunesHelper Application (/Applications/iTunes.app/Contents/MacOS/iTunesHelper.app)
Internet Plug-ins: ℹ️
FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 17.0.0.169 - SDK 10.6 [Click for support]
Flash Player: Version: 17.0.0.169 - SDK 10.6 [Click for support]
QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3
Default Browser: Version: 600 - SDK 10.10
3rd Party Preference Panes: ℹ️
Flash Player [Click for support]
Time Machine: ℹ️
Time Machine not configured!
Top Processes by CPU: ℹ️
6% WindowServer
4% fontd
3% hidd
1% configd
1% powerd
Top Processes by Memory: ℹ️
519 MB kernel_task
156 MB com.apple.WebKit.WebContent
66 MB Safari
57 MB mdworker(7)
57 MB Pages
Virtual Memory Information: ℹ️
5.28 GB Free RAM
2.72 GB Used RAM
72 MB Swap Used -
Satellite A215-S4757 - Battery life and cooling fan issue
Hello everybody,
I would like to ask a few questions abou my system: first of all, the cooling fan is running in my opinion too often: almost continuously, with brakes of 2-3 seconds. Is this normal?
I have my laptop since august last year and I think it shouldn't be a problem of dust, because it is too "young" for that and I don't live in a "dusty" appartment...
Anyway, I think the "almost allways running fan" problem appeared about 2 months after I purchased the notebook. I have installed "Speedfan" and I see "HD0" temperature is increasing from about 30deg immediately after I start the laptop, to about 39deg after 1 hour.
But the curious thing is that so named "Core" temperature is oscillating from the beginning between 45deg and over 52deg! The fan starts each time the core temperature is rising over 50deg and stops when the temperature reaches 45deg. Is this behaviour normal???
Is the core temperature of 45-50deg normal? I am just using my laptop for Internet browsing, e-mails, etc., no complex 3d games!
The second thing is that the battery life is (and was from the beginning) not spectacular: it lasts max. 1,5 hours with wireless on, but normal use of laptop (not playing dvd's or something like this). Is this normal? If yes, is it because of the amd turion 64x2 processors?
Please help me with some advices / opinions.
P.S. I've bought my Toshiba as I was on trip in USA (NY).
Thank you very much in advance.
Conrad> I would like to ask a few questions about my system: first of all, the cooling fan is running in my opinion too often: almost continuously, with brakes of 2-3 seconds. Is this normal?
Im an owner of a Satellite A210. Its similar to the A215. The A210 is a European model and the A215 belongs to the US notebook series.
I have noticed the same on my A210 and I think its normal behavior.
> But the curious thing is that so named "Core" temperature is oscillating from the beginning between 45deg and over 52deg! The fan starts each time the core temperature is rising over 50deg and stops when the temperature reaches 45deg. Is this behavior normal???
The CPU temperature of 40-60deg is nothing unusual.
The temperature could arise up to 70-80degrees while playing a game. So dont worry about the temperature.
The cooling modules are controlled by BIOS. The fan table is stored in the BIOS and it contains informations about temperature limits and the cooling usage.
If a certain temperature level was reached the cooling module starts to rotate with a certain speed.
Now I would like to say something about the notebooks battery life time
Generally the battery life time depends on the notebooks usage.
While playing games or watching movies the battery would discharge much faster.
Anyway, your notebook was equipped with high-performance devices and as far as I know the Vista was preinstalled on this series. Both factors (high performance devices CPU and GPU) + Vista OS need a lot of battery power. Vista needs more notebook resources as the Win XP and therefore notebooks with Vista OS run shorter on battery as the notebooks with preinstalled Win XP.
Last but not least you have to know that there are different battery models A stronger battery with higher *mA* value would help to run the notebook longer using the battery power.
Hope I could clarify this question.
Bye -
I was wondering if I was the only one with this issue. I mean I charged the phone last night. Browsed through the internet like 6 sites less than 30 minutes on all of them on my WIFI not even edge. did 2 calls totalling 20 minutes through out the day and showed it the phone to 4 friends about each feature my battery died in a matter of 9 hrs. is this normal. I don't think I will be happy with this. Unless everyone is on the same page. What happened to the talk time of 8 hrs and 6 hrs of internet usage?!?
I just got done reading another post about this, and I think the guy in that post figured it out. I would really appreciate if someone who knows what to do would post after I post my issue and what a few others have said.
Ok so I am on Iphone #2 my first had a peace of dirt under the screen....and I hadn't even taken the factory plastic off the screen yet.
First iphone had adverage battery life. I switched from a blackjack with a 3day charge and thats with watching videos listening to music and using the 3g internet(why did I swtitch ...I'm an apple fan boy). Iphone has about a 2 and half day charge doing the same but the system is glitched and there is a trick to it(I have not figured this crap out). My iphone at home on my personal wireless service can last forever it seems. I'm watching movies listening to music all that crap. I had to go to a conferance at a hotel recently and my ipod has gone from adverage performance to to needing a charge after almost half a day. I loose power while the phone is suppose to be in standby and I know this because if you go to usage the numbers are reading as if it's in constant use. I know this is different because before the numbers would reflect the phone being in standby.
example: usage 6 hours 13 minutes, standby 6 hours and 13 minutes....before it would read usage 30 minutes standby 7 hours.
Someone has posted that software can continue running while in standby mode and my thing is how do you stop it? and has anyone heard of a fix for this glitch. That has to be the key to the battery problem because when I get home I am back to normal performance. -
This may not be a 4G issue at all but I've read alot about 4G being the ax murderer of batteries so I thought I would start here:
I'm trying to find any other tips to get more battery life out of my new phone. I went from 24 hours of standby time on a 5 year old blackberry with moderate usage to about 5 hours of battery time on very light usage brand new LG Revolution. Below are my settings:
LG Revolution
Purchase 8/13/11
Charged phone overnight with OEM charger (Not 12V)
Unplugged at 5:30 am
Sent two text messages
8:23 am down to 2 battery bars
Settings
4G
Wireless & Network
Mobile Networks
System Select
Network Mode
_______LTE / CDMA
__XX __CDMA Only
Display Brightness – Automatic
Vibration
Haptic Feedback off
Vibration ringer off
Bluetooth – Off
WiFi - Off
Mobile Hot Spot - Off
ActiveSync – Off
GPS
Verizon Location Services - Off
Standalone GPS Services - Off
Google Location Services – Off
Priscilla,
I need your help. This Revolution battery is killing me ....Part of th ereason I went with this phone is you felt the bat life would be better than the thunderbolt. Wow I can't imagine what the Tbolt is like.
Any tips or help you can give me would be appreciated.
Here is my efforts thus far:
Phone purchased 8-12-11
Charged phone overnight with OEM charger (Not 12V)
Unplugged at 5:30 am
Sent two text messages
8:23 am down to 2 battery bars
Settings I have studied from the Verizon website and various Internet sources:
4G - off
Wireless & Network
Mobile Networks
System Select
Network Mode
_______LTE / CDMA
__XX __CDMA Only
Display Brightness – Automatic
Vibration
Haptic Feedback off
Vibration ringer off
Bluetooth – Off
WiFi - Off
Mobile Hot Spot - Off
ActiveSync – Off
GPS
Verizon Location Services - Off
Standalone GPS Services - Off
Google Location Services - OffChristinaB_VZW wrote:
Hi Bulldog69,
Have you checked if you have Advanced Task Killer downloaded? If so, have you removed it? Was this successful in changing the results for the battery?
If you did not have Advanced Task Killer downloaded, there are applications out there that will tell you what is using your battery. It could be an application that is constantly running, it could be an application that is left running accidentally, etc. I recommend going to the Application Market and doing a search on the word "battery." This may help in determining the cause.
I did check my references and I am not showing that what you describe has been reported as a known issue.
Please post back with any results.
Best regards,
No I do not have any task killers as I heard they can be can cause more problems than they are good. I have checked apps and found nothing causing battery drain and my battery just started getting real bad in the last week without adding any new apps. -
Battery Life Decrease In Windows 7
I've recently installed Windows 7 Professional. And I have to say the overall experience is great so far. No issues installing it on my X200. All the drivers work, and all my previous software does too.
However, I've run into something I didn't really expect. The battery life on my notebook now has decreased quite a bit. Usually on Maximum battery profile, my computer only drains out anywhere from 8 to 12 watts. But now, it can hit up to easily 20W sometimes more on occasions while in maximum battery mode. And, it usually stays around 13 to 18 when not doing anything. This really isn't good. That's about an hour worth of battery life for me gone. It's not really a massively HUGE issue but keeping the wattage low as possible is always a big plus in the mobile world.
Any tips or maybe software updates that would fix this, would be greatly appreciated.
Another note: Intel Turbo Memory, only ReadyDrive really works if you have more then 2GB. Having ReadyBoost on slowed down shutting down, and sleeping greatly. Once I turned it off, it made things a lot faster. ReadyDrive seems to be okay. I don't really notice a difference but it isn't doing anything bad so I'll keep it on for now.Hi,
9 hours was simply possible with lowest/nearly lowest display brightness setting, energy star power mode enabled, battery stretch activated and re-activated wireless adapter... without wireless adapter activated I could work for almost 10 hours
using the following T500 configuration: 9 cell battery, SSD hard drive, switched to integrated graphics, WSXGA+ resolution, no USB device plugged in, battery strech enabled (optical drive disabled, audio muted, display settings changed, but wireless LAN enabled)
That's the reason I'm still not really satisfied with Windows 7's power consumption...
Thanks,
Martin
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