BdAqua, anyone.. I need some SERIOUS advise here..

For many of you I have been on these forums for quite sometime and now I am in need of SERIOUS advice. With the acquisition of a Power Mac G5 Quad taking over most of my everyday activities which I do on my mac pro, I am in desperate need of trying to figure out how I can get the best out of my 2009 mac pro of which I worked so hard in making it a 6-core 2010 machine.. Now I am thinking I might have gone overboard, way overboard as I am not making use of the machine and its fullest potential. I don't have really a lot of income coming in right now as I am unemployed, though I am getting a pension and unemployment, but not enough to buy serious applications for taking advantage of the power in my mac pro.
Can someone advise on how I can get the best out of my 6-core mac pro without having to spend 1000's of dollars on stuff I may or may never ever need? Other than video editing, is there any other way I can get the best out of using my machine for what its intended for? Here is what I currently use my mac pro for, thus far:
1. Everyday stuff, browsing internet, forums, emailing.
2. sometimes I will burn two dvds/cd's simultaneously, sometimes not.
3. Retro gaming though I do have some older modern games I play from time to time.
4. I had bootcamp installed, but no more as I can do most of the work I need on the OS X platform.
5. When I ever get dvds, I rip them using handbrake just to take advantage of all my cores, even though mactheripper is much faster and only uses some of the cores.
As of right now most of the above I do on my newly acquired Power Mac G5 Quad and my mac pro is on the floor, disconnected and not being used. The problem is that I got the mac pro because of its expandability and I realize my BIGGEST MISTAKE here was that it is in no way a consumer type machine, but for many years I have used desktop macs for my purposes and expansion.
This is my only intel mac, as my PB G4 is being used for my mobile computing and does everything I throw at it, Power Mac G5 does also what I through at it. The G4 Pismo is only used for OS 9 nostalgia to if I ever have a yearn to retro back to the beginning days of OS 9
Question: With my limited amount of funds, what can I do to get the best out of my Mac Pro?? I don't want to sell it for something cheaper or less, as I really do love the expansion capability of the mac pro and its case for prolonging the system. I don't plan on getting a future mac pro as for what I use it for it certainly would be a waste.
I know I have been rude to some of you and I know its been a rocky road between all of you on this forum and me, but I am now in a desperate, precarious position.. What really can I use my mac pro for other than using it like my PM G5 Quad? I am starting to also think the Quad is overkill, but nevertheless, I have a love for both Intel and PowerPC. And yes, I plan on getting Lion as I do want my mac pro to keep up with at least software and updates to the OS.
Thank you!
Romko

LOL, I think the G5s are already obsolete & a Legacy Mac as far as Apple is concerned, yet MHz per MHz they can still compete favorably with the right SW.
>Ok, can the G5 Quad still do good with elementary audio and video software?
Yes.
>What do you think? The mac pro makes a good server?
Oh yes.
>I do plan on getting Lion when it comes out for my mac pro however.
I wish I could comment on Lion, but NDA, NDA, NDA.
>Also, is it true I won't be able to charge an ipod touch with the G5's USB ports?
No iPods here, but Macs have traditionally been weak in USB amperage, I'd think if all else fails an AC powered USB hub would vertainly cure it.
>Define obsolete?
No longer supported by Apple... so what's new?
Right now Leo/10.5.x is still fairly well supported, but when a new OS hits I expect that to stop.
BTW, we're not llowed to speculate here, so call that a blind guess!

Similar Messages

My ipod is majorly screwed up and i need some serious help

k well lets see
error states 'can't mount ipod'
so i tried checking all the wires, restoring the ipod (which didnt work because it couldnt find it) and i scanned all my files for viruses.
my ipod also makes funny clicking noises when i dont even touch it...
im just a kid guys.. i need some serious ipod whizz to help me out.. im desperate! ive tried everything

Hi,
Firstly please try to deal with "can't mount iPod" issue
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=93499

Home Phone Service via Verizon Wireless needs some SERIOUS rethinking!

Has anyone else signed up for home phone service over Verizon Wireless?
Here in LA, they offered a $19.99/month deal using the wireless service - a box provides the service, and you plug your home phone in. The service is adequate, but somebody forgot to think about how home phones work. I tried to get my billing set up through my bank, and after getting no notice for three weeks, I got a message in my email box that my bill was delinquent, and I owed a late fee. I had tried to set up the billing via My Verizon, but could never get a password to work. I finally got a phone number to call, and they sent me a new password via text message - to a home phone with no text capabilities. After hearing and seeing nothing for another two weeks, I called again, and they told me they'd sent the message. I had to remind them that this was a home phone - no texts. So they offered to send me a letter with a new password, within 7-10 ten days. It arrived two weeks later, and didn't work. Each of these phone calls took about an hour, and I still didn't have a connection.
I put the bills (now up to two delinquent cycles) on my credit card, just to bring thins current, and got one more password. This time I called BEFORE trying it, and with the assistance of a more determined tech, got an ID and password combination to work. I can now see my bill. I still don't know if the autopay will work, and I have no idea if there's any way to get a notice that the bill wasn't paid.
I cancelled my AT&T service because of its cost, but at least its billing worked. Verizon has some serious rethinking to do about how it's billing system works for home users. And they didn't lock me into billing hell for two years.
The topper is, today, I got a notice from Verizon that I've been delinquent in returning a refurbished instrument I never received, billed to a phone number I don't have. And of course there's no phone number to call to straighten it out.

Hello KeyGroupGJ!
Wow, Im sorry for all the issues you have had with the Home Phone Connect service! I'd really like to assist you. You mentioned that there is no number to call to get this straightened out. No worries, there is no need to call us, since I can reach out to you. Please send me a direct message with your name, your mobile number, and a good contact number for you. I'll be happy to assist you!
Christina B
VZW Support
Follow us on Twitter @VZWSupport

I need some serious help with MPEG Streamclip and iMovie 11

Hello, everyone!
I hope that some kind soul here is able to help me. My sister-in-law asked me if I could help her re-edit a video that they made of a conference she gave because she didn't like the way some parts were edited. I oh-so-kindly (and perhaps stupidly) offered to help her out!
A little background: even though I studied audiovisual communications in college, I leaned (a LOT) towards the audio production part of it and, lately, photography, too. That means that I'm not very good at the whole creating-a-movie-in-iMovie thing, even though I know it's supposed to be easy.
So, here goes: I have a DVD from her which has the typical TS files for audio and video. I downloaded a program called MPEG Streamclip and then it said I needed to buy the QuickTime MPEG-2 Playback Component so that I could rip the DVD my sister-in-law gave me. I bought the component.
I've converted, done small, 1-minute tests, of the DVD with MPEG Streamclip to DV and also to MP4 (just in case). I do it, then import them to iMovie 11. I don't edit anything at all, just a test to see how it looks, so I immediately send the project to iDVD to see how it looks. It DOES NOT look good.
Compared to the DVD she gave me, which looks all smooth (picture-wise), mine has a certain amount (NOT HUGE) of pixelation. I can tell especially because there are some slides that were added to her project, so I can see the pixelated parts around the edges of the letters.
The DVD she gave me does NOT look HD. In fact, it looks SD (4:3), so I don't believe it's that.
If anybody here knows about this, what am I doing wrong? Am I not ripping it correctly using MPEG Streamclip? Am I not making the iMovie 11 project right? Am I burning in the "wrong way"?
If it's the MPEG Streamclip ripping that I'm doing wrong, what are the settings I should be using? What format should I be using so that it is VERY iMovie-friendly?
I want the final video that I would edit to look exactly as the one she gave me. That IS possible, right?
For extra information, if needed, I am running a MacBook Pro, 13", i7 with 4 GB of RAM and am running OS 10.6.6. I've been a Mac user since the OS 9 days.
Thanks in advance for anyone who helps me out.
Serge

Ok. Got it!!!
Z, thanks a lot!! Now things don't look pixelated and my test burn looks exactly like the dvd my sister-in-law gave me... except for ONE THING:
There are these graphics done in I-don't-know-what program with a cube transition. They look like when you do 3D cube transitions in virtual desktop, you know?
Anyway, HER dvd looks completely smooth when you see these transitions but MY dvd looks... well, not right. It looks a bit like the screen or the letters "tremble" or shake a bit. I hope you can understand what I'm saying.
I followed your advice to the letter and everything is perfect with the exception of those transitions (because after the transition passes and you see the slide with the writing, it looks completely smooth).
Do you know of something that I can do to help with this problem?
Thanks again!
Serge

I need some serious help with Oracle Database....PLEASE!!

I am using Microsoft Virtual PC 2007 that has Oracle Database 10g and Wondows XP installed on it.
Database instance is DOWN but that is not the problem
Listener is UP
Agent Connection to Instance is DOWN, and I cannot get this running!
How can I fix this problem? I am not an expert, but I have been trying for a long time to fix this issue, but I can't. It just came to the point that I want to grab my pc and throw it across the room.
Error message: ORA-12505: TNS:listener does not currently know of SID given in connect descriptor (DBD ERROR: OCIServerAttach)
Here is my LISTENER.ORA file:
# listener.ora Network Configuration File: C:\oracle\product\10.2.0\db_1\network\admin\listener.ora
# Generated by Oracle configuration tools.
SID_LIST_LISTENER =
(SID_LIST =
(SID_DESC =
(SID_NAME = PLSExtProc)
(ORACLE_HOME = C:\oracle\product\10.2.0\db_1)
(PROGRAM = extproc)
LISTENER =
(DESCRIPTION_LIST =
(DESCRIPTION =
(ADDRESS = (PROTOCOL = IPC)(KEY = EXTPROC1))
(ADDRESS = (PROTOCOL = TCP)(HOST = 192.168.1.109)(PORT = 1521))
Here is my TSNNAME.ORA file:
# tnsnames.ora Network Configuration File: C:\oracle\product\10.2.0\db_1\network\admin\tnsnames.ora
# Generated by Oracle configuration tools.
ORCL =
(DESCRIPTION =
(ADDRESS = (PROTOCOL = TCP)(HOST = 192.168.1.109)(PORT = 1521))
(CONNECT_DATA =
(SERVER = DEDICATED)
(SERVICE_NAME = orcl)
EXTPROC_CONNECTION_DATA =
(DESCRIPTION =
(ADDRESS_LIST =
(ADDRESS = (PROTOCOL = IPC)(KEY = EXTPROC1))
(CONNECT_DATA =
(SID = PLSExtProc)
(PRESENTATION = RO)
Once again, I am not an expert, so please try to explain it as simple as possible...I know, I am an idiot when it comes to networking issues.
if you guys need some more information, just let me know!
Thank you!

What I mean is that I can get the Instance UP with no problem, but the Connection with the Instance is the problem.
C:\Documents and Settings\Paolo\Desktop\courselabs\labs>lsnrctl service
LSNRCTL for 32-bit Windows: Version 10.2.0.1.0 - Production on 25-NOV-2009 21:38
:06
Copyright (c) 1991, 2005, Oracle. All rights reserved.
Connecting to (DESCRIPTION=(ADDRESS=(PROTOCOL=IPC)(KEY=EXTPROC1)))
Services Summary...
Service "PLSExtProc" has 1 instance(s).
Instance "PLSExtProc", status UNKNOWN, has 1 handler(s) for this service...
Handler(s):
"DEDICATED" established:0 refused:0
LOCAL SERVER
Service "orcl" has 1 instance(s).
Instance "orcl", status READY, has 1 handler(s) for this service...
Handler(s):
"DEDICATED" established:144 refused:0 state:ready
LOCAL SERVER
Service "orclXDB" has 1 instance(s).
Instance "orcl", status READY, has 1 handler(s) for this service...
Handler(s):
"D000" established:0 refused:0 current:0 max:1002 state:ready
DISPATCHER <machine: PAOLOSCAMARDELL, pid: 2576>
(ADDRESS=(PROTOCOL=tcp)(HOST=paoloscamardell)(PORT=2307))
Service "orcl_XPT" has 1 instance(s).
Instance "orcl", status READY, has 1 handler(s) for this service...
Handler(s):
"DEDICATED" established:144 refused:0 state:ready
LOCAL SERVER
The command completed successfully
C:\Documents and Settings\Paolo\Desktop\courselabs\labs>lsnrctl status
LSNRCTL for 32-bit Windows: Version 10.2.0.1.0 - Production on 25-NOV-2009 21:52
:03
Copyright (c) 1991, 2005, Oracle. All rights reserved.
Connecting to (DESCRIPTION=(ADDRESS=(PROTOCOL=IPC)(KEY=EXTPROC1)))
STATUS of the LISTENER
Alias LISTENER
Version TNSLSNR for 32-bit Windows: Version 10.2.0.1.0 - Produ
ction
Start Date 25-NOV-2009 11:50:27
Uptime 0 days 10 hr. 1 min. 39 sec
Trace Level off
Security ON: Local OS Authentication
SNMP OFF
Listener Parameter File C:\oracle\product\10.2.0\db_1\network\admin\listener.o
ra
Listener Log File C:\oracle\product\10.2.0\db_1\network\log\listener.log
Listening Endpoints Summary...
(DESCRIPTION=(ADDRESS=(PROTOCOL=ipc)(PIPENAME=\\.\pipe\EXTPROC1ipc)))
(DESCRIPTION=(ADDRESS=(PROTOCOL=tcp)(HOST=192.168.1.109)(PORT=1521)))
Services Summary...
Service "PLSExtProc" has 1 instance(s).
Instance "PLSExtProc", status UNKNOWN, has 1 handler(s) for this service...
Service "orcl" has 1 instance(s).
Instance "orcl", status READY, has 1 handler(s) for this service...
Service "orclXDB" has 1 instance(s).
Instance "orcl", status READY, has 1 handler(s) for this service...
Service "orcl_XPT" has 1 instance(s).
Instance "orcl", status READY, has 1 handler(s) for this service...
The command completed successfully
C:\Documents and Settings\Paolo\Desktop\courselabs\labs>

Hi all i need some guide over here ^^

HI,
i doing BDCbdc for FB60 and i will need to run 1 more BDC before i PARK the doc.
The first BDC is to set the company code to 1000
But there is a problem if the company code in FB60 is 1000, then the BDC i run will fail.
IF the company code in FB60 is 1234 ad i try to set it as 1000, the BDC will run success.
therefore i think of a way, is there any way that i will able to know what is the company code in FB60 WITHOUT looking at the company code in FB60.
Is there a method that BDC can validate the company in FB60.
e.g
IF (company code in FB60) = 1000.
perform ........
else.
perform .......
ENDIF.
Points will be awared
Thanks,
guanwei

hi thanks for reply,
i know about this but what if the company have many company codes and once the BDC run.
the BDC have to check now the FB60 is 1000 or 1234 because different company code using different vendor. this is why i need to validate now the FB60 is using 1000 or 1234.
because there are too many company code, and if i have to set the company code in FB60 manual everytime it will become troublesome.
In FB60 transaction the system first promt for entering the company code
this will only happen when never use FB60 before, after you have set it to 1000, next time try to go to FB60 again it will not Promt to enter company code. it will use the last company code you have set.
that is why i need some guide on how to know what is the company code it using now by not going into FB60 itself.
Thanks
guanwei

We Need Some Developer Recognition Here

Forgive me if I missed something of this sort, but it seems to me that we need some sort of "About the Developers" page. Looking around, I have very little idea of who the devs are anymore, and I think they need more recognition for their work. Just throwing this out there, it's a feeling I've had for a while.

Gah, I've been proven an idiot within 10 minutes. Oh well, it's happened before.
EDIT: LOL, now I get the joke behind Iphitus' avatar.
Last edited by arew264 (2008-08-17 17:03:56)

Goshh, need some help over here!

hi everyne.
need help.
U insert a number e.g ( -12 ) the operation will be: (-1) + 2 = 1
e.g : - 42 = (-4) + 2 = -2
I cannot find a way to do that.
here is the code for simple sum:
int sum = 0;
          int aux;
          int digit = 0;
          System.out.print("Insert a number: ");
          int num = Teclado.intLido();
          aux = num;
          while(aux != 0 ) {
            digit = aux % 10;
            aux = aux / 10;
            if(digit > 0) {
                 sum += digit; when i say "digit > o " this digit is the second one, because the first is always positive.
So i need help to find a way to tell the computer if the second digit is negative it will deduct. e.g -12 -> (-1 ) + 2 = 1
Anyone could tell how to tell the computer if the second digit is negative or positive. I cannot find a way to tell that.
thanks!
Josh

what about num / 10 + Math.abs(num % 10) ?
:D
i know and with strings and length () to count the digits will be easier too.
But i can't use Math.abs etcc string length() etc.. just loops :P
Just wanna know how to tell the computer if the second digits (from right to left) is neg or pos. if neg (-12) (-1) +2 = 1 or (-41) = -4 +1 = -3
using this method with something else.
while(aux != 0 ) {
          digit = aux % 10;
          aux = aux / 10;
          if(digit > 0) {
               soma = soma + digito;
          }else if (digit < 0) {
// this line is wrong because i want it to see if the SECOND digit is < 0 and not the first which is always positive.
               sum = sum - digit;
Do u know what i mean?

MSI Pro-E Chipset Cooling (Need Some Major Clarification Here Before I Begin)

Hey guys, about to bring up a very well known issue here, which brought about many 'heated' debates, no pun intended :P I know there has been many threads on this issue for nearly 2 years now, and well, i did tons of reading on the subject, starting with this classic thread here: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=126885.0 and various others. I'll try and keep this as short as i can and get right to the point. I know what needs to be done, and the method i will be going with (though i am still debating with some options on the final decision), so i wont even bother going into all of that and save myself and you guys some time here. I am quite certain that HU16E has seen more than enough of these threads, and that every time he sees one, he probably gets a brain ache (sorry man )
But basically, i want to remove the stock heatsink on my X58 Pro-E mobo, and replace BOTH the NB and SB heatsinks. This is something very simple to do, take maybe no more than half hour to get it all removed, put the new TIM on, reseat it, etc, and i am all done. The only problem is having to gut the system and put everything back, which takes even longer to do and is something i am not looking forward to doing, but i am just not comfy with an idle temp of 78c-80c, so i want to take care of all this asap. Yes, i know that is under Intels specs, and yes, it IS working, but i haven't even bothered to play any games on this new system yet, because i know if i was to fire up a power hungry game, that the temps would be well over 90c, and that is just NOT GOOD.
What i want to be sure of, and the main question here, is do any of you know, FOR CERTAIN, which heatsink will fit this mobo without any blood, sweat, tears, tedious modding and cussing up a storm and throwing temper tantrums? Or even worse, getting the heatsink and having it not fit at all? That is something i want to avoid, as it just wastes more time having to send it back, look for another and just creates more hassle. If i do decide to actually hacksaw the heatpipe that links the stock NB/SB together, well at that point, there is no going back, and when i go to put the new heatsinks on and they wind up not fitting, i am basically screwed and wont be able to use the pc for days until finding the right one, so again, i want to avoid all of that.
In that thread i linked to above, he mentions he used that Thermalright NB heatsink, but the problem here, is that he was using the Eclipse mobo, which is not the one i have. I seen some others in that thread saying that they had the PRO-E, but never went into enough detail that they used that same heatsink. It seems like it would fit ok, but 'seems' isn't good enough, and i need to be certain it would. Looking in the system right now, i can lower the gfx card to PCI-E slot 2, to make even more room, so shouldn't be a problem i would think.
But then i came across this thread, and found it quite interesting: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=129044.0
Now this person used that Thermaltake Spirit 2 NB cooler, but it seems Thermaltake yanked that off the market, because the link to newegg in the thread, now shows it OUT OF STOCK/DEACTIVATED. Also if you go here:
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?S=1231&ID=1901 and click the pic of the old Spirit 2, it then leads you here: http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?S=1231&ID=1901 , so they obviously recalled the other one for whatever reason. I am guessing because that one was copper, and this one is aluminum and also smaller and virtually do the same job as the other. This one seems really nice and would definitely be the one i would like to go with, since it has a 40mm fan on it all in one, unlike the Thermalright, which doesn't come with a fan (but can use an 80mn fan as well with the mounting contents it comes with). Based on what i have been reading about this issue, if i reseat everything properly, use AS5 and make sure the fans are blowing properly, this Thermaltake heatsink should have virtually the same effect as the Thermalright would. Of course, this leaves the SB completely exposed, which leads to me part 2 of this person's post. He linked to this NB/SB cooler, which is just about the same size as the stock SB cooler, and he 'claims' it fits just fine:
http://www.xoxide.com/enzotech-cnb-s1l.html
There is also another model by the same company, which has a small fan on it too:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708006
The first one would definitely fit, at least where the gfx card is concerned, albeit, barely. Not sure if the one with the fan would, but then again, based on all that i've read so far, that seems like overkill, since the SB doesn't get hot at all, only lukewarm at this point, and a decent heatsink is all that is really needed. However, i say this person 'claimed' it fit, 'supposedly', because he never posted pics when asked about it, and then disappeared from his own thread shortly after. And what spoiled the whole read for me, was another person posting this:
"The enzotech low profile heatsink will not fit on the south bridge because the hole to hole diameter is too large for it to match up against the mounting holes of the south bridge on the x58 boards.
The Enzotech CNB-S1L has 2 possible hole-hole diameters: 54.6 mm and 59mm. However, the mounting holes on the mobo are only 49mm apart. So the Enzotech heatsink designed for the northbridge will not fit on the south bridge.
If you somehow managed to make it fit, please post pics."
So yea, now i can't be certain that heatsink would fit on the SB, and if this guy was telling the truth, if he did his own modding to force it to fit, or what. Yes, i can hacksaw the pipe off, and leave the stock SB heatsink there, but...i figure if i am going to replace one, i may as well replace the other while i am doing all of that. Like i said, i don't want to have to find out it doesn't upon installing it, because that is just unnecessary time being wasted.
And there you have it, guys. Now, i am no expert at all when it comes a lot of this stuff, as far as certain technical aspects go, but many posters here really know their stuff and from what i have read here and on other forums, i feel like a total noob sometimes lol. So all this boils down to, and what i really need to know, is will all the heatsinks that i have outlined here, fit this motherboard properly? I really need to take care of this asap, because this thing running at 78-80 all the time is really going to lower it's life span, and every second that it does, is just one less second of use. Maybe that is being a lil too dramatic, but still, i've seen so many get their temps down to the low 40s and 50s, so i know for sure this board DOES NOT need to be running that hot :-/
On another note, i noticed many saying they wanted to add nuts/washers or whatever, to give better stability and contact. Well, since as i am as bad as it gets with carpentry, measuring, etc, i have no damn idea which ones i would need. I once was asked to measure something long ago when i worked as a laborer for a carpenter and reported back, saying to him '2/3s'. The guy looked at me like i had two heads lmao. Fortunately, i can read a ruler/measuring tape much better now lol, but i'm still no Norm, from This Old House. I hear all this talk of 'spring mounts', 'push pins' 'mounting holes', 'screws', etc. Since i am unable to see the back of my mobo right now (only the CPU area from the other side of the case panel when removed), i have no idea if its using metal screws, or push pins, or what. I see the heatsinks i mentioned here, as well as many others, use these various methods, so im uncertain what would work on this board (if it needs plastic/nylon screws or metal ones). Now, i checked out this youtube vid of a guy showing how to remove my exact mobo and reseat it with new/better paste. It was quite informative. Just so you guys know, i have the older 'brown colored' Pro-E board. The one in the video looks to be the same color. However, i just purchased this board, along with the whole system less than 3 weeks ago, so i don't know how old this Pro-E may be.
Another important question about what this guy did in the vid too. You can fast-forward to where he takes it apart. Looks to me like they are metal screws, but again, im unsure if mine use those. The front of the heatsinks have two holes, those of which i can easily see, and have what looks to be a plastic washer or something on it. It looks 'greyish'. Now, A VERY IMPORTANT issue in this vid, is this guy removed the THERMAL PADDING on the heatsinks. I read here all over the place, that you are NOT SUPPOSED TO DO THAT, as to ensure that the heatsinks aren't touching any components on the board, the chipset itself. As you can see in the first couple comments, the guy says 'Yes, the existing pads were scraped off. It's important to remove the old thermal pads, otherwise you won't have any benefit & it may even be worse.' So yea. all that does is just confuse me more. Considering how gunked up, though, that the paste will be when removing it, i can only image that the stock pad on there is probably gonna be pretty nasty as well too, which is why he probably took it all off. But yea, wondering if you guys could clarify that for me, if that should be done or not. Seems many here were very firm that it should NEVER be removed.
I can honestly i never have had an issue with MSI until now, and they do put out quality products, but i hope in the future, that newer mobos would use better TIM and have a fan added on the NB or something. Other manufacturers do this, some don't, but they ALL should, so i am not just singling out MSI here. We live in an age where technology is very capricious and always progressing, and back in the day, well, PCs didn't require crazy amounts of fans, watercooling, etc. But with things putting out so much wattage these days, apps/games/movies requiring better hardware, which also needs more power and/or outputs a lot too, well you don't have to work for NASA to know that heat is going to be a problem, and the motherboard being an obvious vital component, should be adequately cooled just as well as everything else that needs it. I do love this board, and it does more than enough to suit my needs, i just wish it didn't run so dang hot That's the ONLY gripe i have about it.

Hey, HU16E, and others,
I just wanted to let you know that i finally broke down and attempted this procedure (after a lot of hesitation), and everything worked out perfectly as you said, WITHOUT having to buy some aftermarket chipset cooler. Maybe it was meant to be for me, because i learned a crap load of things in the process and in the end, it wasn't as hard or grueling as i thought (although 1 process was, which ill get to shortly lol).
Once i finally got everything gutted (well, just the stuff attached to the mobo), i then removed it, and hit a wall, because the screws that hold down the chipset heatsink, wouldnt fit any phillips head screw drivers had, so i had to stop, run out and buy a lil six pack of VERY small philips and flat heads. I had assumed during my extensive research on all of this, that those screws used the 6-32 size, which is pretty much the smallest i could find out there. Many pointed out the RC/Model Airplane hobby shops, but nothing i could find out where i live. Those 4 screws differ from everything else in the case. I thought they would be the M3 type screw (6-32), which on the wiki for pc-screws, had said they were commonly used on most mobos. But anyway, i got those off with the right screwdriver, and that was where the 'grueling' part came in.
The NB heatsink came off after 5 minutes of careful wiggling/rocking/twisting to the left and right. I never once PULLED UPWARD, until it was VERY LOOSE, in fear that i would crack the NB die, because if that happened, well, the mobo would basically have become nothing more than a good coffee cup stand). The SB took about 20 minutes since it was cemented on there pretty good. I had to use a wrench and lock both sides of it on there, and then again, just twisted to the left n right carefully, because my hands/fingers were too big to get a grip on the heatsink it uses. Finally, it came off, and i was good to go, but my goodness.....
...not to sound to harsh here, but man, that original paste it had was just terrible, HU16E. This Pro-E i have is the brownish colored one, and so, it had this pink, bubble gum stuff, that was VERY sticky and hard, and i can now see why these heating issues were taking place. Also, the HS itself wasnt as tight as when i finally put it all back. I used alcohol and qtip swab, and also your toothpick method of scraping from the outside, in, to form a clump, which worked well, but the thinner residue afterward was a real hassle to get off there, both on the HS and the NB die/SB surface. Used a butterknife on the HS, but only soft and non-metallic stuff on the NB die, and just kept wiping with alcohol and a microfiber pad for what felt like an eternity until it just basically dissolved and got that nice mirror finish. I used 4 of the 6-32 washers between the stock screw/spring/washer, and believe it or not, it fit very well. It's not loose, the screws head doesnt go through it at all, and once it was scerwed in nice n tight, there was no play at all, so it worked out really well. I mean, at most while it was loose, was probably just a micro millimeter of space while it was around the screws shaft, but again, once it was in there it was tight as can be. I used Arctic Cooling MX-4, since it one of the best out there and i liked the fact it was non-conductive. From what i have read about pastes, metallic-based compounds just arent necessary in this day and age anymore. Also replace the paste on the CPU cooler too.
So i fired up, and well...checked the bios temps, and there ya have it. Went from 82 degrees, down to 48! That definitely made it all worth it. Now i can finally do some gaming/hd content without having to worry about it going into the 90s. It hasnt even exceeded 60 on load, so all is well for sure Also have an antec spot fan set on medium and aimed right over the NB and added a 200mm fan on the top of case, acting as exhaust, so im sure that all plays a part too.
Honestly, though, i really hope MSI is NOT using that paste anymore, because it really is just....well.....ill just say it's BAD lol. It sure as hell would work awesome for some kind of adhesive or glue that is for sure lmao. Maybe MSI should hold onto to that stuff, and give the glue market some competition lol. But yea, as a thermal compound, umm...i just sure hope they switched to a good type of paste for all their future mobos, especially the z68s. I also don't believe that the NB/SB heatsink ever needed a combo type deal, via the heat pipe, as this just creates more tedium. Heck, i dont even think the SB even needs a HS on it, as it doesn't even give off much heat at all. Mine is barely lukewarm to the touch. Not to mention, when taking it off, the heat pipe tends 'move/bend' a bit, and this means the heatsinks on either side will not match up well, or be perfectly parallel when you seat them back on the board. I had to keep bending it gently and standing it on my table til all 4 pegs on the bottom would touch, this way i would know that it'd reseat properly. I hope in the future that MSI will scrap that whole linked HS set-up.
As i stated before, love the board, and the TIM issue was the only issue i had with it, and now since that is resolved, i have no gripes whatsoever. Down the line, ill probably get a z68 soon, and wouldn't mind at all going with MSI, but id like to be assured first that some changes were made to the chipset cooling, because even though this was all a good learning experience for me, it is not something i want to go through again lol.
But hey, thanks a bunch for all of your advice HU16E and other mods as well. I was going to go with that Thermalright HS, and your posts (past and present) convinced me otherwise and the temps are down to what others got them to WITH that same aftermarket heatsink, so you saved me 30USD

After Effects CC (2014) Error "I need some serious help right now!"

I wanted to create a Superman opening title sequence from After Effects CC (2014). So, I decided to download it from Creative Cloud and put the new "amtlib.framework" file on package contents in the "Framework" folder. I open the application and I get this error.
Then, this other error popped up.
That's where I'm at right now. So, a few questions come to mind.
1. Should I open it in trial mode and quit out of it and then add the "amtlib.framework" file to "Framework" or will it just open and give me the same errors?
2. Do I have to turn off my Wi-Fi and then open the application?
3. Do I have to get the updates first?
Anyone who knows what to do with this issue, I would appreciate it. Don't give me BS answers and don't tell me that I have to update from Mavericks to Yosemite, because I have no interest in Yosemite.
Before I forget, here's info on my MacBook for those wondering.
This is an old laptop I had in the last week of January of 2011. I upgraded it to OS X Lion to Mavericks on 2014. I'm still on Mavericks.
Anyways, some answers and guidance would be great so I can fix the issue and move on.

This is an old laptop
Yes, it is. And with an unsuitable processor and insufficient graphics memory at that. This will never work. You can only download an older version of AE as a trial.
Mylenium

Lenovo A6000 Softbricked? Needs some serious help--Please

Hi My A6000 phone got factory reset and then I tried to recover some lost pics...but I was advised that my phone needs to be rooted first, so the software opened kingo root soft, It showed me the message that phone has been rooted and when it rebooted there was a notification of software update which I said ok and ever since then the phone is stuck on system recovery mode (not sure if it is called soft brick or not) and I have tried many things including choosing all the options starting from reboot system now, apply update from ADB, wipe data/factory reset, wipe cache partition, apply update from sdcard but nothing seems to work!!! oh I for got to mention on the top of the screen it says Androoid system recovery <3e>Kraft -A6000_S035_150507 and then gives all the option and i have tried this following : https://boycracked.wordpress.com/2015/06/03/unbrick-lenovo-a6000/ but some how for the first solution it keeps on saying download failed, emergency recovery download failed...anyways it does not work Is there any soultion to this!!! Please help if there is one!

it worked the link from boycracked (mentioned above )actually worked the trick was to hold vol up+down key (while the phone is off) and then insert the usb into your computer, secondly my computer kept of saying that qualcomms --digital signatures not verified and the port is supposed to be Qualcomm Lenovo HS-USB QDLoader 9008 where as mine showed up to 9091, to solve this I uninstalled the drivers and then disabled digital signatures (use goggle how to disable signatures verification on whichever windows you are using) and it worked fine. Thank you all

Need some Serious Advice! Macbook Magsafe Board Failing

So I'm in a problematic situation with my 2009 Macbook and I'm really unsure of what to do. Recently, i've had problems with it where the magsafe board (meaning the power outlet on the computer itself, not the adapter) won't receive a charge. I've taken it to a apple certified reseller for repair (in Israel where I live) to fix this problem twice, and each time they've simply replaced the magsafe board, and within a week, for seemingly no reason at all, it fails to receive a charge.
Another note about the computer is that the area of the body of the laptop where the power outlet is, is sort of destroyed, meaning, some of the plastic has chipped off and that part of the computer is not extremely secure and moves around a bit. To combat this, the 2nd time I had the magsafeboard replaced, I bought an external case that covers the entire computer, but even without it receiving any bumps or anything, the magsafe board has failed again.
So now I am not sure what to do, the reseller where I took it to instructed me that they may need to send it to Apple in America for a diagnostic (which will cost $250 roughly in Israeli currency). I could ask them to simply fix the magsafe board again, and maybe replace the body of the laptop itself, but that would in total cost me about $430 to do here, and would not be entirely sure that it would solve the problem. At this point I'm considering just buying a new laptop all together if I'm going to be investing so much into fixing it time and time again, but its a shame because its such a simple part of the computer that is causing it to fail, where as the rest of the computer works beautifully.
Any ideas on why this might be happening, or opinions on what to do, would be supremely appreciated!
Thanks guys.
-Daniel

Macbook?
there are firewire ports in your Macbook or it is the last version "unibody"?
if you have firewire i suggest Motu Ultralite or greater
... if USB only.. search for Motu 828MKII Usb version
G
Message was edited by: fermusic

I need some serious iTunes help or I'm going to throw my iPod in the pool..

Okay...here's my problem. I cannot import. There is no import button at all. There is on my husbands computer but not mine. I have repaired iTunes in the add/remove programs and I just uninstalled and reinstalled iTunes. I'm trying to put my son's CD's on my computer to load on to his Shuffle.
I did a diagnostic on the Apple help boards and it did say that it did not detect an audio CD but I do have one.
Any advice? I would be so grateful.
Silverceladon

I'm having the same problem. Bought my girlfriend an Ipod for Chistmas and can't import cd's into Itunes to load to the Ipod. The cd doesn't show up at all in Itunes nor does it ask if you want to import the songs. It used to work. Don't know what happened. I ran Itunes diagnostics on my cdrom drive and get an error 263. Sent that to tech support but no response. Let me know if anyone has a solution.
Dbroc52

Definately Gonna Need Some Advanced Help Here...

Hey guys, I've had an iPod video for about a year now with minimal problems, but all of a sudden it messed up. The screen just shows random lines and different shapes in different colors, but when I move the click wheel, I can still here that clicking sound thingy that it makes. I've already tried resetting and restoring my iPod and neither has worked. Please someone help me. I NEED MY MUSIC!!!

They will repair the iPod if there does not appear to be accidental damage. If the iPod itself does not have a crack on the LCD screen on the front, perhaps it was the inner screen. (If that makes any sense.) Sometimes, if the inner screen breaks you will see shapes with colors and such as you mentioned.
Are you within the 1st year of owning the iPod? If you are, I'd recommend setting up for a repair (as long as it wasn't caused by accidental damage (as mentioned by Johnathan Burger).
http://depot.info.apple.com/iPod

Need some serious help...

Last month, the processor in my PC crashed. As fate would have it, it crashed right as I was updating the software for my iPod Touch (I did manage to back up the iTouch before the crash). So now, my iPod Touch is stuck in "recovery mode." I have since rebuilt my PC from the ground up (new motherboard, processor, RAM, vid card) but I have kept my previous Hard Disk Drive as it was where all my "stuff" was. The issue is that this drive was not backed up to a disk or off site. I can access my iTunes music via the music folder in the old HDD but for some reason or another I cannot get the iTunes program, which I just reinstalled from the web, to find or sync. I can import songs individually using the "file>library>import playlist" route, however it only seems to allow me to import one song at a time. Given the sheer number of songs I have stored there, it will take weeks to accomplish. That being said, I fear what has come of my saved stored Apps. I am not getting an option to move the Apps to the new iTunes program, and iTunes is saying I cannot complete the iTouch software upgrade, only "restore" the iTouch. Bottom line...will I lose all the apps? or possibly everything? This seems far too extreme for a company as prolific as Apple.
So I'm desperately wondering if there's a way to extract the iTouch files from my old HDD to the current one so that they will sync to my current iTunes program, hopefully be able to then restore the iTouch and sync it and still have all my bought Apps and music. I've scoured the internet for solutions, however they all seem to assume that both my iTouch and Computer haven't crashed simultaneously. I've tried customer service for Apple, however they seem as confused about the whole thing as I am. Anyone have a suggestion, link or even a solution?

I can import songs individually using the "file>library>import playlist" route, however it only seems to allow me to import one song at a time.
Try the "Add to Library" command instead, and select the parent folder for your content. That should copy all the content to your new iTunes folder and add it all into iTunes.
Alternatively, if you have the entire former iTunes folder (the master folder which contains the iTunes library files as well as the folders with the content), you should be able to just drag-copy that folder to the appropriate location on your new hard drive. Then to make sure iTunes recognizes it, launch iTunes with the Shift key held down, navigate to and select that folder. You can also just do the same with the iTunes folder on your old hard drive, if you plan to keep that drive permanently in use.
Regards.

BdAqua, anyone.. I need some SERIOUS advise here..

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