Best camera/camcorder for a concert?

Hi, I'm going to a concert in a month and I really want a camera or camcorder that is less than $300 and can provide good video, I'm not so much looking for good pictures I just want good video quality and sound. Also nothing professional or bulky, just something I can easily but in my bag. Any advice on what cameras are good for this? I'm looking more for a digital camera than a camcorder. I'm thinking maybe the canon powershot ELPH 300 HS or 110 HS? But any other cameras I'm more than willing to look into. Thanks so much!!

Hi Michelle_15,
With your budget you will need to stick with Point-and-Shoot cameras, and it sounds like you want something relatively small anyway. Both models you listed should do an adequate job of capturing video of this concert, but keep in mind no Point-and-Shoot camera will do a great job of video capture in dark environments like concerts.
Thanks,
Allan|Senior Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
 Private Message

Similar Messages

  • For my power shot S5IS, best camera settings for 4 X 6 prints?

    for my power shot S5IS, best camera settings for 4 X 6 prints? I would like to have the best setting so when i print out the photos,i do not need to crop or trim. It is close, but i feel it can be better.

    The bad news is that you can't do anything in camera to get that result. The good news is that once you understand the possibilities you'll appreciate being able to control how your prints get framed (cropped). Your camera produces images in a 3:4 ratio while a 4 X 6 is a 2:3 ratio so if you don't know in advance that you need to crop some from the top, bottom, or both to make your image fit the 2:3 ratio & frame too tightly when taking the photo you're in trouble. Learn to shoot in a way that allows cropping to match common print sizes, and find a simple editing program to crop in computer. This should be standard practice because even though you may want a 4 X 6 now down the road you might want a 5 X 7 so keep your options open. 
    If you don't have an editing program that easily does this & you're on a PC download Picasa which is an excellent program for this & it's free. Once you have it running select one of your existing photos, select "crop" from the menues on the first tab & then play around with the different options Picasa has built in to see the effects to your image. NOTE that it won't throw away the data outside the crop box even though it may look like it has. You always have the option to "undo crop". Once you get a result you like you "export"  & create a new file cropped as seen on screen WITHOUT modifying the original file.
    "A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

  • Looking for best compatible camcorder for Mac

    Which format is best duited for I movie and Macbook's in general. I want a mid level camcorder for vacations and family and would like ease of use for editing in I movie & other video editing programs with my new Macbook pro. Is Mini DV still the format of choice? What about SD flash?
    thanks

    Start your research here:
    iMovie 11 - cameras supported:
    http://help.apple.com/imovie/cameras/en/index.html?lang=en_US
    iMovie 9 - cameras supported:
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3290?viewlocale=en_US
    iMovie 8 Camcorders supported:
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1014
    Digital camera RAW formats supported by OS X Lion:
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4757?viewlocale=en_US
    Digital camera RAW formats supported by OS X Snow Leopard:
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3825?viewlocale=en_US

  • Best camera settings for youtube videos

    What settings should I shoot video at in order to get the best youtube output?    My choices are 1920x1080-30; 1920x1080-24; 1280x720-60; 640x480-60; crop-640-60
    I'm wondering if it's better to compress a high quaility video, or can I shoot at low quality and get the same results?
    I have a Canon 60D and CS4 master collection with Premiere Pro and Encore.

    Use the preset under H.264 and set the framerate the same as your footage.
    Do a little experimenting, you dont have to upload the whole movie, couple of minutes is enough.
    HD footage can be upload as HD so why go for low.

  • Best HD Camcorder for my New iMac Help Please

    Hello All
    I have only had my New iMac for about a month now
    I am wanting to get a New HD Camcorder, but I need one that will work with my New iMac.
    Can someone help me find a Good HD Camcorder that will work with my iMac?
    I was looking at the Sonys, but I hear they don't work with Apple?
    Thanks Everyone in Advance! Bobby

    *I cannot restore the iPod to it's factory settings as my PC is lost and it was linked to it. I need your help!*
    You don't need the old computer to restore the iPod, connect it to the Mac you can restore it in iTunes there. (By the way, you don't need to restore simply to use it on a Mac since Macs can read Windows formatting.)
    Connect your iPod to the Mac, when it appears in iTunes click on it's icon to display the preference tabs. In the Summary tab click on Restore. Once the restore is complete follow the on screen instructions to name the iPod and automatically sync your songs and videos onto the fresh installation. Press Done and the iPod will appear in iTunes and start to sync. If you want to update manually or using selected playlists uncheck the box beside the sync automatically instruction and press Done, it will default to manual mode and you can choose whatever setting you like: Restoring iPod to factory settings with iTunes 7

  • Best Camera app for 3GS

    I want a good camera app, which do you think is the best. I am currently leaning toward Super Camera: All in one.
    What do you think?

    Overall, but I would like to have multiple filters (sketch, sepia, black and white...etc)

  • Best camera choice for shooting basketball and football.

    We are comparing the 7D, 60d and rebel T4i.  We are novices but are willing to learn and realize we will need to invest in lenses.  Any opinions would be appreciated.

    Unless the basketball is played in VERY good light the 7D is the only option in that list. It has a far better AF system than the others when it comes to action. The 7D rivals earlier pro bodies designed & used to cover sports & fast paced action, and from using both I can verify it was up to the task most of the time. (I didn't get to use the newest firmware update before selling my 7D).
    Lens choices will be highly influenced by the lighting, and faster lenses will rule in low light. Football is normally an outdoor sport so lens choice is a bit less demanding re a wide aperture.
    "A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

  • Best compatible Pro HD Camcorder for FCP 6?

    I am used to the old days of mini-DV format when things where simple LOL! With the introduction of new formats I do not know which way to go?
    Can someone help me in the best HD Camcorder for ease of capturing and editing. I will need to give pros and cons to my boss. I know DV tape is still easy to capture and edit but what is the cons of it now a days?
    I heard with compressed formats editing can be difficult and still has issues??
    Budget wise looking at options in the $2500K up to $4K.
    Thank you

    I use HDV in a Sony V1U. I used to edit in HDV natively, but now I capture to ProRes 422 (NOT HQ) any my G5 Quad does it in real time.
    Pros: HDV uses DV tape which is inexpensive and great for archiving: capture it, then stuff in in its case, then in a plastic box (I got mine from Tapestockonline.com) for safekeeping.
    ProRes edits easily, but if you have multiple streams (like multiclip, composites, etc.), you may run out of disk band width. I use the internal 7200RPM drives, or external FW800 drives and get two to three streams. More than that and you need a RAID (see CalDigit). A trick: put different captures on different devices/busses: one stream on an internal SATA, another external FW800: you are sort of doing a poor mans performance RAID.
    Cons: a drop out on tape may mean up to 1/2 second of missing video and audio data. Whoops! I use Sony HDM-63VG (videographer grade: $8/tape) and have never had this issue.
    Capturing HDV to ProRes 422 is only "capture now." There is no log an capture, so recovering from a failing disk drive is more complicated... You could capture to native HDV, then convert it in and FCP sequence set for ProRes 422, or using Compressor.
    Prores 422 takes about 4x the disk space as HDV (or DV, for that matter).
    I will eventually go to solid state capture, and the new JVC's are pointing in the right direction. Long GOP mpeg2 on SDHC will be more reliable than tape, so dropouts should not be a problem. I'd probably still convert to ProRes 422, however. Buying bare drives and a Wiebetech ComboDock is about as cheap as archiving tapes.
    Just some thoughts: no conclusion.
    Eddie O
    PS: with the NEW JVC camera, does anyone know if the color space is 4:2:2 or 4:2:0?
    Message was edited by: Edward A. Oates
    Message was edited by: Edward A. Oates

  • What is the best camera for me?

    I don't know much at all about cameras, so I'm really hoping someone will be able to help me! I'm looking for a camera that's better than your standard point and shoot digital camera but one that doesn't cost a fortune. I want to be able to take pictures of NASCAR cars going down the track without them being blurry. I would also like to be able to take pictures of things that are sitting still or aren't going quite 200 mph. I guess I just want an all around good camera that also has the ability to take good, non-blurry pictures of NASCAR cars in motion. I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the best camera and/or lense would be for this. Thanks so much for your help!

    This is one instance where good gear helps but knowing how to use it properly is more important. Panning skills will be important, & so will choosing the right focal length of lens. I'll assume you have to shoot from the stands but don't know how far you'll be from the stretch of track you're hoping to shoot the cars along. A camera with a good AF system matched to a lens with fast AF capabilities will help too, but you could do this old school & use manual settings & manual focus too. You would set up the camera based on the lighting favoring a Tv that can freeze the car but blur the background & wheels / tires. Then you pick an ISO to allow shooting in the f8 range at that Tv & pre focus on the section of track in front of you. Pan with the car or group of cars as they go by & take a few shots while they are in the zone you've pre focused on. 
    If however you're really serious about it & think you'll attend enough events to justify spending the money the 7D, 1D2n, 1D3 & 1D4 are all worthy bodies for action thanks to their AF systems & frame rate. For lenses I suggest considering any of these as a starting point but again you may need longer depending on access to the action. 70-200 f4 L, or the IS version or maybe the f2.8 versions but since the 70-300 L IS seems to have both a very fast & accurate AF system it would be my first choice as a from the stands starting point. The 100-400 L would be my next addition to a motorsports kit but I don't think it's the lens I'd start with. 
    As for setting up a camera for action (DSLR's but some P & S may work too) I wrote an article which is a good starting point & the suggested shutter speeds for prop planes fit a rookie shooting motorsports so I recommend reading this plus use the link in my last post for another set of lessons from Canon that you should read.
    http://www.rccanada.ca/rccforum/showthread.php?t=147971
    As a side note I started attending R/C events to work on my panning skills so I'd be better at the track. A smooth panning swing is developed through practice & it's the key to good results, and follow through after the last shot in each sequence.
    "A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

  • Best camera for low light and sports

    have the sx200is
    looking for a newer camera for sports and low light shots

    The challenge with sports is that you are REALLY pushing the camera gear to it's limits.  Fast action requires fast shutter speeds.  But fast shutter speeds demand a lot of light and only outdoor games played during the daytime have that.  Indoor games or games played under field lighting at night generally do not have the kind of lighting needed to shoot with fast shutter speeds -- not the kind of shutter speeds needed to freeze action.  So this ends up demanding a camera with excellent ISO performance and lenses with very low focal ratios so they can collect a LOT more light when the shutter is open.  This gear is expensive.
    You will want to consider a reasonable budget depending on what you can afford and the needs of the specific sports.  
    Are these indoor or outdoor sports? If outdoors, are these played during the day or are they night games?
    The "best" camera for sports and low light is the EOS-1D X.  It has phenominal low-light performance, has an amazing focus system,  and can shoot at 12 frames per second.  But it's about $6800 for the "body only" and then you still need lenses.  I'm guessing this is probably not what you had in mind.  But if money were not a constraint... this would be the one to go for.
    The 5D III is another amazing camera for low light performance and and also has an amazing focusing system (largely the same as the 1D X) can shoot at 6 frames per second, and only costs $3500... again, that's the "body only".  Still probably not what you had in mind.
    The 70D has an extremely good focus system (though not as good as the 5D III and 1D X), not quite as good as low light (but pretty good and much better than a point & shoot camera) and shoots at 7 frames per second (1 fps faster than  5D III) and it only costs $1200 for the body only.
    The T5i will be noticeably less expensive than the 70D... a good (but not extremely good) focusing system and 5 frames per second, but the body and 1 kit lens combined is about $850 but that wont a lens suitable for use shooting sports so you'll still need to invest in more appropriate lenses.
    When shooting action photography in low light, what you _really_ want is a lens that can collect a lot more light than the average lens for that very brief moment when the shutter is open.  Such a lens can allow you to use a faster shutter speed to help freeze those action shots.  But *which* lens you use depends on the sport.  
    For low-light sports, these would ideally be f/2.8 zoom lenses... but f/2.8 zoom lenses are not cheap.  Canon's EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS USM (ideal for most indoor sports and outdoor sports IF the action is happening close to you) is about $2500.  Sigma's lens is about half that price.  But if you're covering action on a large athletic field and the players are far away, they'll still be small.  Sigma makes a 120-300mm f/2.8 zoom for sports... for the low low price of only $3600.
    Scott Kelby does a video to talk about sports photography and he discusses the equipment used and why... and basically says if you want the gear for shooting sports, you basically need a suitcase full of money.
    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • I am putting together a proposal for a Final Cut Pro Workstation to use with a tapeless HD camera.  Can anyone suggest the best camera (in the 5-10,000 dollar range) ?  What hardware and software should I include in the package?

    I am putting together a proposal for a Final Cut Pro Workstation to use with a tapeless HD camera.  Can anyone suggest the best camera (in the 5-10,000 dollar range) ?  What hardware and software should I include in the package?

    This is quite an open suggestion, but here are some ideas which might get you started.  There are good HD cameras in your price range from Sony, Panasonic and Canon (and maybe other manufacturers). Tapeless formats vary.  I have only worked with Sony XDCAM which seems pretty good to me.  File sizes for material shot at 35MBS are not too huge and, with the free Sony transfer and conversion programme, are easy to bring into the computer via USB direct from the camera or from a fairly inexpensive converter.  The Sony XDCAM EX3 can produce results well up to broadcast quality.
    As to hardware, you'll need a powerful MAC - iMac, Macbook Pro or MacPro with 4GB or more of RAM and a good video card.  Softwarewise, FCPX is quite a bit cheaper than FC Studio 3 and of course it's 64bit and can make better use of multi-core machines than FCP7.    It's also designed to handle HD formats with less hassle than FCP7 and is matched to the latest versions of Motion and Compressor.   But you'd probably be wise to search reviews of FCPX before you make your choice - it has some issues.
    A good HD monitor will be essential and, for colour correction etc, you may want to consider a second monitor or HD TV foe editing. ( A MacPro is generally the best machine to connect a second monitor to). 
    This should give you a good editing system, but there are many other things you could add (Photoshop, professional sound monitors, etc)
    Hope this helps a bit.
    Jonathan

  • Complementary still camera to use with my camcorder for use on my mutimedia projects

    Hi, I use a Canon XA10 camcorder for my movie work. The XA10 also has an impressive still photo image capability, but I also need a smaller sized still camera for capturing stills without gathering the attention like camcorders sometimes do. So I need a smaller point-and-shoot for this kind of still work, but with similar capabilities (e.g.. excellent image quality, colour quality, point focus, depth of field, etc) offered by my XA10. What would a suggested choice for a small still camera to complement my great XA10?
    Many thanks!

    Did your search find this one:
    http://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Endoscope-Borescope-Inspection-Camera/product-r eviews/B004ZWFOEQ
    I don't have it and am suspicious of how well a $20 inspection camera will function, but it was the very first one I found with a review from a Mac user.
    Be sure to read the review written by "Paul Manning"...

  • What is the Best Hard Drive Camcorder for/compatible with FCP?

    Hi,
    Just bought a JVC GZ-HD7...feel very trouble...unlike those MiniDV Cassette base Cam,Just plug in FireWire and FCP will read!!!To use the GZ-HD7 in FCP might use a lot of steps to convert before inport the source.
    And now i'ld like to invest Hard Drive Camcorder for my FCP editing base,Is it a Good Media Format?
    If yes,Which Prosumer or Semi-Pro Camcorder will you recommend?Really need your helps,maybe you are the one who are currently using it and feel happy with over all?!
    Hope to get some suggestion from you guys!!
    Thanks!!

    http://panasonic.co.jp/pavc/global/videocamera/hd/global/products/hdc-sd9/
    Thanks for tip David. I work at a middle school, we shoot a lot of district functions with three cameras then use the multiclip function of FCP. If I bought three of these cameras do you think they will work well in that environment? here is our workflow:
    1. Sync cameras with a clapper at the start of show.
    2. Import into FCP
    3. Mark inpoint at the sound of the clapper
    4. Create the multiclip sequence and edit
    We have done 50 or so shows like this with 14 year olds as the editors and the results are very nice. I would like to move to the hard drive based camera. Being in education we are on a tight budget. Think three of these camerass would work in this environment?
    Thanks so much for your expert advice.

  • Best prepaid phone for concert lighting ?

    I'm finally getting rid of my dumb phone for a smart one...but i need to know which prepaid phone is the best for indoor concert colored lighting and movement?  Son has a verizon, I'm looking still, but that's really the most important feature for me.  Use the Ebay app, would love a few decent games, and I always get unlimited talk/text.  Thanks!

    Hello!  Welcome to the Forums!
    Nokia is mostly correct in stating that Verizon will not normally allow their own No Contract or Prepaid phones to be activated onto a contract plan, but there is an exception to this.
    Per Verizon, if the prepaid phone that is going to be activated to the contract account has been used as a prepaid phone on a prepaid plan for at least 6 months prior to being used on the contract plan, then it can be done. Before that point, Verizon's systems will not allow the prepaid ESN number to be activated on the contract plan.
    Hope this helps clarify some information.
    Regards,
    Miranda
    Don't take what I say as being absolute. There's always room for improvement.

  • Best Camcorder for Simple VIdeo & Burning DVD

    Hi all. I've had a MiniDV camcorder for about 10 years that just broke. Since only 1 camcorder is sold with MiniDV, I'm nervous that I'll need to find a new storage medium for our existing movies. I'd like to buy a new camcorder to take videos of kids etc and have the ability to burn to DVD for future storage.
    I don't think I'll plan on editing (but would like the capability) and I've seen the list of Apple supported products and all of the discussions here which have just made my head spin. I'm really just looking to take decent video, put the SD Card into my computer, and burn it to a good quality (not internet) DVD. I was leaning towards either the Canon FS200 or the Sanyo with iFrame but I've seen mixed reviews (which may have just been from Pros).
    Lastly, we have a new (2009) MacBookPro with iMovie '09 and iDVD '09.
    Any help or advice would be appreciated.

    This may sound counter intuitive but I and others I know get fine results using just a Canon point-and-shoot camera. A friend and I have spent some time comparing the cost and results from "dedicated" popular-priced video cams compared to our (we both own the same model) Canon S3-IS cameras. If anything - the video quality is a bit better with our "still" cameras. The current version of the S3 can be found at the Canon website. Oh - From S3 onward, this model line takes the high capacity SD cards up to (at least) 8 GB. This size memory card provides over 60 minutes of video at "full size" (640 x 480).
    I carry the S3 almost daily - just in case I get a photo op or a "video op" like a fire or other emergency. I've shot video downtown with just street lights for light source: the videos need very little lightening if any under those conditions. My camera has 12 X optical zoom and the latest version has 20X optical zoom. I also like that this model line continues to use 4, AA size batteries (you can use rechargeable NiMb AA, of course). Shop around, I'm pretty sure you can get the latest version for under $400.
    Other points: I find the built in microphones in these cameras to be very good - as good as any in a camera in that price range. Downloading (the AVI / QT .mov) files can be done with a simple card reader or with the connect-to-camera USB cable supplied with the Canon camera. I use a card reader - just on the thought that having the camera on while downloading drains the batteries a bit.
    The Canon downloader software works fine with Macs - but I use Adobe Bridge because it gives more options for naming files, etc. I would NOT recommend GraphicConverter for downloading / organizing video: it handles digital photos okay but sometimes just "screws up" video files for no apparent reason. Some people now like Picasa for Mac - but I haven't used it much so I can't say myself.
    I go with the others responding here when it comes to editing: iMovie HD seems to be the last gasp from Apple when it comes to low-cost (but practical) movie editing.
    I did like iMovie 09 - mainly for the "jiggle remover." But the little update (to 8.0.5) really messed up iMovie 09 for me and quite a few other people.

Maybe you are looking for