Best camera choice for shooting basketball and football.

We are comparing the 7D, 60d and rebel T4i. We are novices but are willing to learn and realize we will need to invest in lenses. Any opinions would be appreciated.

Unless the basketball is played in VERY good light the 7D is the only option in that list. It has a far better AF system than the others when it comes to action. The 7D rivals earlier pro bodies designed & used to cover sports & fast paced action, and from using both I can verify it was up to the task most of the time. (I didn't get to use the newest firmware update before selling my 7D).
Lens choices will be highly influenced by the lighting, and faster lenses will rule in low light. Football is normally an outdoor sport so lens choice is a bit less demanding re a wide aperture.
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

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For my power shot S5IS, best camera settings for 4 X 6 prints?

for my power shot S5IS, best camera settings for 4 X 6 prints? I would like to have the best setting so when i print out the photos,i do not need to crop or trim. It is close, but i feel it can be better.

The bad news is that you can't do anything in camera to get that result. The good news is that once you understand the possibilities you'll appreciate being able to control how your prints get framed (cropped). Your camera produces images in a 3:4 ratio while a 4 X 6 is a 2:3 ratio so if you don't know in advance that you need to crop some from the top, bottom, or both to make your image fit the 2:3 ratio & frame too tightly when taking the photo you're in trouble. Learn to shoot in a way that allows cropping to match common print sizes, and find a simple editing program to crop in computer. This should be standard practice because even though you may want a 4 X 6 now down the road you might want a 5 X 7 so keep your options open.
If you don't have an editing program that easily does this & you're on a PC download Picasa which is an excellent program for this & it's free. Once you have it running select one of your existing photos, select "crop" from the menues on the first tab & then play around with the different options Picasa has built in to see the effects to your image. NOTE that it won't throw away the data outside the crop box even though it may look like it has. You always have the option to "undo crop". Once you get a result you like you "export" & create a new file cropped as seen on screen WITHOUT modifying the original file.
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I've been converting footage from VHS onto a DVD, then ripping/converting it using MactheRipper and MPEG software.
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Do you need HD? That's a question only you can answer. You don't mention what your intended form of delivery will be (broadcast?, DVD?, web?) but let's assume you'll be delivering on DVD. Since DVD is a standard definition format, an SD camera would suffice, or you could go with an HD camera and either shoot in HD then down-convert for editing and delivery, just shoot, edit and deliver in SD mode.
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have a monitor, one of the new iMacs may be
a better choice. If you do have a monitor, I would
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The best PDF choice for sending pages to iPhoto?

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I use goodreader, which is fairly good, and alows for folder creation.
In my quick, unscientific test, just now with a 60+ page pdf with lots of graphics in it, if you spend more than a second or two on a single page, the next one displays right away. If you try to swipe through a bunch in a row, really fast, you get the checkerboard pattern until the new page loads.
AS you are looking at sheet music, this would work as you would definately be staying on a single page for a 1/2 minute or more (dpeending on the tempo of course).
I would still google for sheet music apps that might be more of what your looking for. A coworker (thats left for the weekend already) has sheet music on his ipad and I can ask on Monday what he prefers.
Till then
Jason
Message was edited by: jaxjason

Best Export Settings for DVD burning and Computer viewing

Hello,
I am trying to export a 1 hour video that I need to be compatible with standard DVD players as well as viewable on any computer.
Original footage was shot with a Canon 5d Mark ii in 24fps.
I have done all of my editing in Premiere Pro CS6. From there, I exported a high quality file to bring into Media Encoder (for trials of best output). My master file from Premiere was exported with the Preset MPEG2. The only thing I changed in the preset was VBR from 1 pass to 2 pass.. This gave me a 6.2 GB file.
I then brought that file into Media Encoder where I have tried the following presets:
MPEG2-DVD - Match Source Attributes
MPEG2-DVD - NTSC 23.976fps Widescreen High Quality
MPEG2 - HDTV 720p 23.976 High Quality
MPEG2 - NTSC DV High Quality
These settings have encountered various issues.. some have significant banding, but most importantly, none of them will play on my DVD player when I burn them to a disc.
The discs I am using are Sony DVD-RW with a 4.7GB capacity.
Where am I going wrong here? From what I've read, the format needs to be MPEG2 to be viewed on DVD... Sorry if I sound ignorant! This stuff is tricky..

First off, don't export your timeline and then take the result to AME to re-encode, this is compressing your video twice and degrading quality (not to mention takes extra time and hard drive space). Always export direct from Premiere to Media Encoder. If you must use an "intermediate" file as part of your workflow, perhaps to archive a completed video that might later be exported to other formats, then use a lossless codec such as UT or Lagarith (free downloads).
For DVDs, you MUST use "MPEG-2 DVD". Other forms of MPEG-2 are not appropriate, as the official DVD specification requires that the MPEG-2 file has certain attributes. Not recommended to use "Match Source" for ANY export, just choose an appropriate setting as needed.
This should be correct for your application - MPEG-2 DVD > NTSC 23.976fps Widescreen High Quality
If you want to encode a DVD file over 1 hour in length, then you will need to adjust the encoding bitrate so the resulting file will fit the disc. Rule of thumb is 560/minutes = bitrate, but you might round down the result a bit to allow for menu overhead and such, depending.
Once you export the "MPEG-2 DVD" file, you can NOT simply burn that file to DVD media. That is only creating a DATA disc and it will not be playable in a DVD player (though a computer or PS3/PS4 may work since they can play most media files). To make a DVD that works in all DVD players (and meets the spec), it MUST be "authored" in a program like Adobe Encore. This compiles your content and menus and all that and then writes the result to the disc in certain way so that DVD players can read the disc. If you open any DVD on your computer, you will see a folder called "VIDEO_TS" and inside that there are .vob files and others. That is a proper DVD. And once you have a proper DVD, you can't simply copy the VIDEO_TS to another disc (as DATA), you must tell the burning software to create as a "VIDEO DVD" and not DATA, or it again won't be readable in a DVD player. Very picky spec, sorry.
When using AME to export MPEG-2 DVD, it will create two files, audio and video (.m2v and .wav), you will then Import both of those into Encore together. Note that you CAN import other formats into Encore, such as .avi but Encore will then transcode that to the correct MPEG-2 format anyway, so best that you take charge and create the right media in the first place in AME before you get to Encore.
EDIT: In AME, any time that your source is higher resolution than the destination, such as HD to DVD, you can check the "Max Render Quality" button in AME to provide the best downscale quality.
EDIT 2: I see you're using DVD-RW media. That is fine for experimenting, but for delivery to clients always use good quality DVD-R or DVD+R media. DVD-RW may not have the best compatibility with players and costs more anyways. DVDs are so cheap now that I just proof to DVD-R and toss the bad ones, up to you.
Thanks
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

Best camera choice for shooting basketball and football.

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