Best (cheapest) solution for older Mac

I have a Mac Core Duo and 10.6.8. I am quite happy with it apart from the fact that I am unable to upgrade to the latest photo editing software. I can use Lightroom 3 but need LR4 to process raw files from my Olympus EM5. My other choice of software would be DxO Optics but again my poor old Mac won't support it. I have tried the software that comes from Olympus but I just don't like it. I can't really justify spending a whole load of money to buy a new Mac for this reason alone. The best solution would be to find some other software that will run on my system that will fill my needs. Are there any photographers on here that could recommend something? I did think about maybe getting a Mac Mini and just using it for photo editing but I don't know much about them. Could I use it with the screen of my present iMac. Would they play happily together? Or, sell this Mac, buy a Mac Mini and a good display monitor?
I'd be more than grateful for any advice.
Thanks

A new computer will come with OS 10.8.3, and some of your older apps simply will not run.
Here's a good list:
http://roaringapps.com/apps:table
When budgetting for new hardware, don't forget you may be in for some new software investments as well.

Similar Messages

Top two best video cards for older Mac Pros?

I have some older Mac Pro towers that vary from:
2.66 GHz Quad Core Intel Xeon
..to this:
2 x 2.93 GHz 6 Core Intel Xeon
Looking for at least the top two video cards that are tried and tested that would work best with at least Premiere Pro and AME. I just need to narrow down the unwieldy list that can be found here: http://www.adobe.com/products/premiere/tech-specs.html

MikeJamesG wrote:
Looking for at least the top two video cards that are tried and tested that would work best with at least Premiere Pro and AME.
Are you adverse to using aftermarket cards that have been converted to work properly in a Mac? If you aren't, then I'd recommend talking to Dave @ MacVidCards because he can cook you up an nVidia 700-series card that will boot properly in a Mac Pro, run at PCI-E 2.0 speeds, and work wonderfully in Pr/AME.

What's the best system upgrade for 'older' Mac Mini?

My MacMini is about five years old:
Model Name:    Mac mini
Model Identifier:    Macmini4,1
Processor Name:    Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed:    2.4 GHz
Number Of Processors:    1
Total Number Of Cores:    2
L2 Cache:    3 MB
Memory:    2 GB
Bus Speed:    1.07 GHz
Boot ROM Version:    MM41.0042.B00
SMC Version (system):    1.65f2
This mini is still running System 10.6.8, with the 'latest' version of Safari being version 5.1.10.
Lately, Safari fails to perform certain features correctly on certain websites, and I have to switch to Firefox to make the websites work.
Is it time for a system upgrade, so I can run a newer version of Safari? If so, which newer OSX system version would be the best for me to upgrade to?

A few other things to consider if you want to upgrade your OS.
If you are using any apps that are still PowerPC apps, they will not run on
any newer Mac OS. So you will need to find replacements ($$$$).
Also, in terms of apps, you need to make sure the apps you are currently
using are compatible with the newer MacOS. You may need to upgrade ($$$$)
or find alternatives.
Also, you will need to make sure any external hardware that you use with
your Mac is also compatible with the newer MacOS. You may simply need to
update drivers or the hardware may no longer be supported ($$$$).
So, upgrading your MacOS could end up costing more than just adding RAM!!!

What is the best 'cleaning system' for the Mac?

What do you recommend as the best 'cleaning system' for the Mac!

How to maintain a Mac
Make two or more backups of all your files
One backup is not enough to be safe. A copy of a backup doesn't count as another backup; all backups must be made directly from the original data.
Keep at least one backup off site at all times in case of disaster. Backing up to a cloud-data service is one way to accomplish this, but don't rely exclusively on such backups.
In fact, don’t rely exclusively on any single backup method, such as Time Machine.
If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
Keep your software up to date
In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Don't install such modifications unless they're absolutely necessary. Remove them when they are no longer needed. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all system modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of difficulties with system updates.
Don't install crapware
...such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac," "TuneUpMyMac," and “MacKeeper” scams, but there are many others.
As a rule, you should avoid software that changes the way other software works. Plugins for Photoshop and similar programs are an obvious exception to this rule. Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Only install software that is useful to you, not (as you imagine) to the computer. For example, a word processor is useful for writing. A video editor is useful for making movies. A game is useful for fun. But a "cache cleaner" isn't useful for anything. You didn't buy a computer so you could clean caches.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve. Do not rely on "utilities" such as "AppCleaner" and the like that purport to remove software.
Don't install bad, conflicting, or unnecessary fonts
Whenever you install new fonts, use the validation feature of the built-in Font Book application to make sure the fonts aren't defective and don't conflict with each other or with others that you already have. See the built-in help and this support article for instructions.
Deactivate or remove fonts that you don't really need to speed up application launching.
Avoid malware
"Malware" is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X was once so rare that it was hardly a concern, but it's now increasingly common and dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against malware, but you can’t rely on it—the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party "anti-virus" products for protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness—not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
Don't fill up your disk or SSD
A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a startup failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
Relax, don’t do it
Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime for maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform.
A well-designed computing device is not something you should have to think about much. It should be an almost transparent medium through which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that needs a lot of attention just to keep going, use a PC, or collect antique cars.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

What is the best PDA/Phone for a Mac?

I know all the new pda's sync with Outlook. What are the best solutions for us Mac users? I just use Mail/Address/Calendar but could also use Entourage if that was a better solution for synching with PDA's such as Windows Mobile or Palm.

I use a Treo 650 and find it great. Address and phone info on my contacts also my calendar. ... I sync it to my desktop computer (G5) and sync my powerbook via .Mac.
I use Apple's iCal and Address book

What is the best virus protection for a Mac?

What is the best virus protection for a Mac?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't actually been tested by Apple (unless it comes from the Mac App Store), but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. For most practical purposes, applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed can be considered safe.
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could find some other way to evade Apple's controls.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. Beyond XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT, there’s no evidence of any benefit from other automated protection against malware. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source. How do you know whether a source is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style "virus" affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful. Fortunately, Java on the Web is mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers. In Safari, this is done by unchecking the box marked Enable Java in the Security tab of the preferences dialog.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a specific task, enable Java only when needed for the task and disable it immediately when done. Close all other browser windows and tabs, and don't visit any other sites while Java is active. Never enable Java on a public web page that carries third-party advertising. Use it, when necessary, only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
ClamXav is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
ClamXav may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use ClamXav unless a network administrator requires you to run an anti-virus application.
9. The greatest harm done by security software, in my opinion, is in its effect on human behavior. It does little or nothing to protect people from emerging threats, but they get a false sense of security from it, and then they may behave in ways that expose them to higher risk. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.
10. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.

AirPort Extreme 802.11n for older Macs?

Are there any plans for Apple to release some sort of upgrade for older Macs so that we can use 802.11n wireless networking?
I have a Power Mac G5 (2.5GHz DP) and a MacBook Pro 17" Core Duo (not Core 2 Duo), so the hardware in my Macs doesn't handle the 802.11n specification. (Please note that I'm not talking about the software enabler. That's not going to work on older hardware.)
Are there plans for new AE cards that can be swapped into the G5s or an ExpressCard 34 card for the laptop?
(And why oh why does the UK government not allow wide channel? UK consumers are stuck with only a 2.5x speed increase, whereas US consumers get the full 5x speed increase.)
Thanks!

802.11n refers to a speedy wireless connection. When
you connect with a wire, you're not using 802.11 at
all. You're using Ethernet, and your Core Duo mac
will connect to the Airport Extreme at 100Mbs (a
little faster than the top speed of 802.11n). Then
The top speed of 802.11n is considerably faster than 100Mbps. In narrow band mode, the Airport Extreme cards are connecting to AE Base Stations (AEBS) at 130Mbs. In wide band mode, 270Mbs. In theory, that makes connecting to the new AEBS device wirelessly faster than via the wired ethernet. It's a design decision that just doesn't make sense in my opinion.

What is the best DVD Creator for a Mac Book Pro to replace iDVD?

What is the Best DVD Creator for a Mac Book Pro to replace iDVD? Have Maverick OS.

I have already looked at other threads in this forum, so 'I venture forth' to ask my question here:
I have a 44 minute carefully edited iMovie with several chapter markers. I dimly recollect that when you 'dump' the entire movie into iDVD (my version is 7.1) it should detect the markers and create buttons to link to specific scenes. Well, the 'dumping' process obviously doesn't work.
How do you get iDVD to recognize the markers and ceate buttons to link?
I can create with iDVD a DVD that will play the movie in its entirety. This is not suitable for my purposes. I need access via a menu to specific scenes.
Thank you,
Klaus

What is the best security system for a Mac?

I am curious as to what is the best security system for a Mac. Is it Norton or something else? I have a Macbook Pro with Lion and I want to make sure I avoid all of the viruses and malware out there.

Hi c,
General consensus here is to stay far, far away from Norton, and that most anti-malware software for Mac causes more issues than they will ever avoid.
Most Mac users run bare.
I still haven't seen anything in the wild, no OS X virus really going beyond proof of concept; some malware, yes, but not a virus. And the existing malware requires users to "open the door" and basically tell the malware it's ok to do its thing. I'm not sure there'll ever be software which can overcome the actions of such a user.
For those who feel the need, ClamX has been often suggested.

Best storage solution for FCP HDV projects?

What is the best storage solution for Final Cut Pro HDV projects (i.e. internal or external drives, SCSI, external firewire drives, etc.)?

Don't forget you can also use the "Send to Tape" command to send your footage back to miniDV HDV tape. This isn't the ultimate solution, but is a good way to cheaply "backup" large projects to inexpensive tape without killing your drive storage with every project.
Here's a new feature request for Media Manager... Forget that. I'll start a new post for it.

What's the best storage solution for a large iLife? RAID? NAS?

I'm looking for an affordable RAID storage solution for my Time Machine, iTunes Library, iMovie videos, and iPhoto Library. To this point I've been doing a hodgepodge of external hard drives without the saftey of redundancy and I've finaly been bitten with HD failures. So I'm trying to determine what would be the best recommendation for my scenario. Small Home Office for my wife's business (just her), and me with all our media. I currentlty have a mid-2010 Mac Mini (no Thunderbolt), she has an aging 2007 iMac and 2006 MacBook Pro (funny that they're all about the same benchmark speed). We have an AppleTV (original), iPad2 and two iPhone 4S's.
1st Question: Is it better to get a RAID and connect it to my Airport Extreme Base Station USB port as a shared disk? OR to connect it directly to my Mac Mini and share through Home Sharing? OR Should I go with a NAS RAID?
2nd Question: Simple is Better. Should I go with a Mac Mini Server and connect drives to it? (convert my Mac Mini into a server) or Should I just get one of those nice all-in-one 4-bay RAID drive solutions that I can expand with?
Requirements:
1. Expandable and Upgradeable. I don't want something limited to 2TB drives, but as drives get bigger and cheaper I want to easily throw one in w/o concerns.
2. Simple integration with Time Machine and my iLife: iTunes, iMovie, iPhoto. If iTune's Home Sharing feature is currently the best way of using my media across multiple devices then why mess with it? I see "DLNA certified" storage on some devices and wonder if that would just add another layer of complexity I don't need. One more piece to make compatible.
3. Inexpensive. I totally believe in the "You Get What You Pay For" concept. But I also realize sometimes I'm buying marketing, not product. I imagine that to start, I'm going to want a diskless system (because of $$$) to throw all my drives into, and then upgrade bigger drives as my data and funds grow.
4. Security. I don't know if its practical, but I like the idea of being able to pop two drives out and put them in my safe and then pop them back in once a week for the backup/mirroring. I like this idea because I'm concerned that onsite backup is not always the safest. Unfortunately those cloud based services aren't designed for Terabytes of raw family video, or an entire media library that isn't wholey from the iTunes Store. I can't be the only one facing this challenge. Surely there's an affordable way to keep a safe backup for the average Joe. But what is it?
5. Not WD. I've had bad experiences with Western Digital drives, and I loathe their consumer packaged backup software that comes preloaded on their external drives. They are what I meant when I say you get what you pay for. Prettily packed garbage.
6. Relatively Fast. I have put all my media on an external drive before (back when it fit on one drive) and there's noticeable spool-up hang time. Thunderbolt's nice and all, but so new that its not easily available across devices, nor is it cheap. eSata is not really an option. I love Firewire but I'm getting the feeling that Apple has made it the red-headed step-child of connections. USB 3.0 looks decent, but like eSata, Apple doesn't recognize it exists. Where does that leave us? Considering this dilemma I really liked Seagate's GoFlex external drives because it meant I could always buy a new base and still be compatible. But that only works with single drives. And as impressive as Seagate is, we can't expect them to consistently double drive sizes every two years like they have been -cool as that may be.
So help me out without getting too technical. What's the best setup? Is it Drobo? Thecus? ReadyNAS? Seagate's BlackArmor? Or something else entirely?
All comments are appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I am currently using WD 2TB Thunderbolt hard drive for my iTunes, which i love and is works great. i am connected directly to my Mac Book Pro. I am running low on Memory and thinking of buying a bigger Hard drive. My question is should I buy 6TB thunderbolt HD or 6TB NAS drive to work solely for iTunes. I have home sharing enabled for my Apple TV
I also have my time capsule connected just as back up only.

Searching Archive for Older Mac 10.4 (non Intel) Computer Lost Flash Player

Hello Forum Users!
I'm sorry to bother you, but checked recent posts and knowledge base and cannot seem to find my problem listed.
Problem starts and ends with older Mac operating system (10.4.11, Yes, I am still using Tiger and my G4 is said not to be acceptable to Leopard so its time for new computer..but until then)....
I have only a 60 GB HD, and it was getting "full" so suggestion I received and someone helped me do it, was to eliminate all old "downloads" I was saving.
Fine....except that while I was cleaning up the older programs I "don't use" to get more room on the Hard Drive (I had less than 10 GB free and Apples don't like that on their Journal Drives), I accidentally "erased" (then threw out as trash to get room) the Adobe Flash Player. Not a problem! But now of course I remember that is "why" keep normally all "downloads" as files in case I do that....so no older download to use as my own archive.
Ok, not a problem! Go to Adobe and download a new Flash Player (Of course I can't use 10.3 and all the others you keep referring to, as I don't have an "Intel" chip operating computer, so 10.4 is supported by newer Flash Players but only those using an Intel chip which my computer doesn't have. (Lap top else I'd try all types of modificactions to work around the problem).
Sorry too many details, but rather let you know now than questions back and forth.
The final irony is that I know of Adobe's Archives and went "back in time" downloading and testing out various Flash Players (sorry, didn't pay attention so I did not ever have marked down which version of older Adobe worked with my 10.4.11).
So I tried all the 10.2's 10.0's 9's (even the developer ones) I hit the 8's and realized that maybe I'm not doing something right as I do think if you are using 10.3 now, that 8 versions should have been usable according to the June 2010 system requirement lists.
For downloading I select Mac "other" as my operating system since the current specificaitons for downloading list 10.4 to 10.6 as "Intel" based.
Did I leave anything out?
I really need Adobe Flash Player as most of the web sites are just refusing to display anything but words for me, so just boring now on web without access to all the content that Flash Player provides. (no more funny You tube videos either of course!).
Can anyone help me with my Adobe problem?
Thanks!

To both of my helpers.....Success! (Skip to end if you don't want to read the details).
Sorry for the delay in responding to all of your suggestions!
eidnolb: Here is what I found on the page with red "f" this time. But using Safari, the whole top of the page says "Flash" meaning that the red "F" is part of a Flash item that is not loading in Safari, but does load in my other Browser, Sea Monkey.
Using Safari I right clicked (was on wrong page sorry) and got the "ClicktoFlash---Settings" settings
I do not have regular "settings" anymore on my list just: Load Flash/Load all on this page/add www.Adobe.com to whitelist/ClicktoFlash Settings.
And in the Click to Flash Settings there is no box to uncheck for hardware acceleration. Only things like Options/sIFR Text Updates Uninstall (of course) version 1.5.5 if that matters).
I set up my account in Adobe using Sea Monkey which I do when Safari is fully being used for other purposes that day, so that explains why I got confused sometimes, the Flash Content in Sea Monkey "works" but the same page loaded in Safari does not work. I do have Firefox, but that has too many saved pages that have not been gone over to "unsave" them when I'm done either printing the contnet or saving the content or bookmarking it, so that is quite unusuable right now so I don't know if any of the flash is working or not on Firefox (and I don't have Chrome loaded in yet....maybe I read it was Leopard only? I forget why it is not
another choice for me).
Willener pat's (finally used a mirror!) suggestion I try the FP uninstaller again, I made sure it was done using Safari (Sea Monkey does not like it)....and despite it appearing for the higher levels of Mac OSX I tried it....
Its getting complicated. I can read the instructions how to do it in Sea Monkey, but Sea Monkey does not like the file (does not know what to do with it and offers my entire "Mac" database of applications i.e. word, etc to use it (very bad). Safari can use the file but I have to click on it without the accompanying instrtuctions to help me as they are not visible or printable anymore from within Safari without Flash. So I'm using the printed instrucitons from Sea Monkey to follow and Safari to do the downloading!
I'll work this out yet!
eidnolb: I visited http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/155/tn_15507.html after uninstall as you and pat say to do.
But the message reads:
"The following displays the type of Flash Player version that this browser is running, and its capabilities. Usually only developers creating content for Flash Player require this information: "
But Guess What? The box is a "FLASH" item!! So I can't see what version is in there! (Catch-22 they call that!).
My company's Flash pages are showing up on both Safari and Sea Monkey, they pause then load even though I've not set them for "permissions" or "whitelist" on the ClicktoFlash" because the content is created by various people and they have bad web page habits so especially I do not load Flash immediately at my company's web pages, as it can hang or cause scripts to keep working so I have to stop it. That is why the person I deal with got me "ClicktoFlash" as just because I know how to create a web page, doesn't mean all the other ones I deal with know how!
I'm thinking at this point, should I try installing back in the version again? I guess no harm can come from that so I went back to eidnolb's version in original message and tried to load it in again.
Result is: nothing!
I clicked on your address in Sea Monkey and copied to safari and both don't work. "Page Not Found" Error.
This is what I clicked on to get the Flash installer 10.1.102.64 before! I know it worked then, why not now? So I'll use the copy I've downloaded before but why is the link not working now?
eidnolb: June 15, 2011 10:53 am
Flash installer 10.1.102.64 [http://fpdownload.macromedia.com/get/flashplayer/installers/archive/fp 10.1.102.64_and_9.0.289.0archive.zip] Open the archive to reveal yet more archives and multiple files. Select: flashplayer101r102_64_ubmac.dmg
By the way....reading everything that came with the installer program (it appears for developers only as archived version), it says to "restart" system after uninstall. Maybe that is what I did not do, but I've closed and restarted my computer each time I leave so I know its been "done" in middle of writing your forum replies, I just save it elsewhere and come back to continue writing!
So closing and restarting everything had no effect. On the Adobe Find Flash Player Version page, I still can't "see" the box with version of Flash Player I'm currently running, as its a Flash box that does not activate. The other Adobe page with "red" F still does not show the me "red" F just a huge "Flash" box that I can't open.
So here goes with installing again from the saved version of download (by the by I'm now down to 9.46 GB free since I've opened and downloaded so many files so many times. Just don't know which to delete as nothing has worked yet!
Now it works! I think!
I got the "Find Flash Player Version" page and I can "see" the result
I'm using Player Version: MAC 10,1,53,64
Debug Player: No
Opening system Mac OS 10.4.11
Video Capable Yes
Audio Capable Yes
Local File I/O Enabled: Yes
So I guess that is it!
It works !
I could have just said this part alone, but wanted both of you to see what steps I took to get it working again! (Might be helpful to anyone else stupid enough to try to create more room by deleting any large files with unidentified names).
Which answer fits the bill for "correct" answer? I"ll click on and award points however you both see fit (10 to best answer 5 to possible answers).
I went to check on the one you (eidnolb) answered about Google Maps (I have a iPad now and always use it for my portable use of Google Maps so didn't notice anything like he mentioned, so I just went in to give a check and Safari and Google Maps are all working fine with street views (the orange man---does anyone have a name for him? Have a contest!). It all works so thanks again.
Best regards to everyone!

Best financial software for Intel Macs

I see to my disgust that Intuit just released a new version of Quicken that is not universal binary. That being the case, what is the best home financial software for Intel Macs?

Hey Todd,
Just to be sure I am understanding you - you are saying you are miffed because Quicken missed the chance to go Universal Binary. That is understandable, but I just wanted to make sure you knew that it still runs on Intel macs.
I am running the newest release on my Macbook and to be honest Quicken just isn't one of those apps that is going to benefit from more speed.
My frustration has always been that Quicken dumbs down the functionality for the Mac version. Still the case with this last release.
That said, Quicken is still the best buy for my money (sorry couldn't resist!) and runs well via on the Intel macs.
The best solution and the one I am moving toward is to load XP on Parallels and run the PC version of Quicken that way.
Best of all worlds I would say.
MacBook Mac OS X (10.4.8)

Replacing a keyboard for older mac

It appears that part of my Mac keyboard fried, as the space bar no longer works, and I assume this isn't fixable since rebooting didn't help. (Fortunately I'm typing this at work!) I want the extended USB keyboard with the numeric keypad on the right side. Looked in the Apple store, and danged if they don't have only a keyboard that requires OS 10.6 or later! How can I get a new USB extended keyboard that works with my PPC (pre-Intel) that runs on OS 10.4.11?

I went by Best Buy today, and their Apple specialist looked up the model number online. Reviews going back to 2010 showed it working for people then, and he felt it probably would work for my Mac even though it SAYS minimum requirements are 10.6 and up. He says it hasn't changed and suspected that Apple just wants people to upgrade their system software and keep current. Perhaps the later software has some extra functions on this keyboard that won't work in 10.4. However, he strongly suspected that the keyboard WOULD would with my system anyway, since an Apple keyboard is an Apple keyboard. So, I bought the thing, hooked it up, and here it is, working. I'll have to get used to it, since I really preferred the more ergonomic curved and higher keyboard like the older one. If I can ever find the allen microwrench I'll need to open up the old keyboard, I'll give cleaning a try.
Thanks to all of you for your suggestions and advice. This online community is quite helpful.

Best storage solution for a G5 tower?

Hello,
I'm trying to figure out what the best storage / performance strategy would be for Aperture/Lightroom/Photoshop use. I'm an amateur digital photographer, and I shoot with a 10 MP camera so my hard drives are filling up! I currently use a 74 GB Raptor as my boot drive/sandbox and a 400 GB WD as my OS & file storage drive. I love the speed of the Raptor, but it obviously has a massive storage size limitation.
I already need more storage space, so I'd like to change my set-up. Whatever changes I make, I'd like them to also make sense for a Mac Pro which I intend to upgrade to in about six months.
I've heard it's better when using Photoshop and Lightroom to keep photos 1) on an internal drive rather than an external one (not a problem with the Mac Pro's 4 drive bays) 2) on a different drive than the OS install (is this true?) and 3) on a drive with lots of free space.
With only two drive bays in the G5 tower, what's the best option in terms of maximizing speed and storage space?

I still feel the g5 is slow. I have a huge aperture library, on the magnitude of 95k photos, and I have a lot of slowdowns and beach balls, even with my RAID, and they are only 8 megapixel 20d files. I have plenty of RAM, don't run a lot of applications when I am running aperture. I have the slower video card (6600 I think), but I still have a lot of "loading image" time, which I think is RAM/cpu/disk access. In other words, get the Mac Pro with the mid level graphics card with enough RAM. I think you can load up the mac pro with a bunch of internal hard drives (get the enteprise class drives). I use apple RAID formatting; again, I like as much of it to be in the box as possible--third part solutions make me nervous; will the be available in the future? If my hardware raid controller goes down, can I still rebuild my drives? A lot of questions with no easy answers for me.
As for jrg_uk, I know firewire is just the enclosure, but there are new SATA external drives that can connect directly to your computer without going through the Firewire bridge (as I understand it). The reason why I am not a big fan of firewire is because of the bridge. I like the idea that my data is going through as few hoops as possible.
I have had several firewire drives fail on me. I just had a OWC RAID die on me three times in a row; all because the hardware failed inside the drive. It was in a metal case with a fan. I also recently had a LaCie big drive fail on me. I think it is a hard drive failure, (ie., not the enclosure, as I can still see the enclosure); although I cannot be sure. I have had a host of other drives fail as well, including another OWC drive with a fan, a grainite digital RAID enclosure, and a bunch of the notebook firewire enclosure. The only enclosure manufacturer that I would recommend is Wiebetech. I, and one of my friends who owns a retouching studio, have had very good results with their enclosures. I have two of them plus a drivedock. So far so good. But again, I only trust my mission critical stuff to SATA. Preferably internal, although I am hoping to get an external SATA RAID soon, as I am running out of space again.

Best (cheapest) solution for older Mac

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