Best firewire cable for 2010 macbook pro 13 to new Seagate drive?

Hi. Have an old 2010 macbook pro 13" running OS 10.6.8. Have a friewire 800 port. Need to hook up to a 4 TB Seagate back up plus drive (http://www.seagate.com/in/en/external-hard-drives/desktop-hard-drives/backup-plu s-desk/) While the specs on the drive clearly indicate that it is firewire 800 compatible, I'm not sure which cable to get. I'm told there are different pins, so what exactly do i need to ask for, to make my ageing 2010 macbook talk to my new(ish) seagate back up drive via firewire? Also, if anyone out there knows where I can source such a cable in India, I'd appreciate the advice. Thanks.

CTian wrote:
As far as I know, there are 2 types of charging methods.
1) Leave the charger attached to the MacBook Pro as frequently as possible. Basically the laptop is attached to the charger 24/7.
Leaving it attached 24/7 is not good - lithium-based batteries like the one in your MBP need to be used to maintain their health.
2) When the battery reached 100%, unplug the charger and use it with the battery only. And when it reaches a certain level indicated to connect the charger, then charge it.
This is what I have. Currently, I am doing option 2 since that is how I think batteries work.
#2 is also not good. You are thinking of the older nickel-based batteries, for which #2 was best.
The 'best' option is somewhere in the middle - use your battery frequently but lightly, an hour or two on battery a day, for a total of 1-2 cycles per week.
Much more information here: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1764220

Similar Messages

What is the best wireless printer for the MacBook Pro?

what is the best wireless printer for a macbook pro?

I use an Epson NX430 (inkjet) which uses a wireless card: no issues. Also a Brother HL-3040 (laser) connected to modem by Ethernet cable: no issues. Depends on your printing needs and amount of work space available.

What is the best antivirus software for a Macbook Pro...I recently received a message from Google that someone made an attempt to hack into my mail account so I needed to change my PW and verify myself as the user. The message suggested that I run a scan

What is the best antivirus software for a Macbook Pro...I recently received a message from Google that someone made an attempt to hack into my mail account and I needed to change my PW and verify myself as the user. The message suggested that I run a virus scan to check for sny malware or other types of viruses. I do not have any software for this and up until now have not had a problem....any help is appreciated. I would like a simple but effective solution!

It's worth noting that if your Gmail has been hacked, it would likely have nothing to do with your MacBook. Hacking web based email is fairly common and it doesn't require any access to your machine whatsoever. In the same way that you can simply go to the Gmail webpage through any browser, any hacker can use the same method. It doesn't mean your machine has been compromised in any way (and it has likely not been). I have never received an email from Google of this nature. I have received notifications when someone has attempted to create an account with my name in which they basically say that there is no action required if you're the rightful owner.

What is the best cooling pad for a MacBook Pro 13in?

What is the best cooling pad for a MacBook Pro 13 inch?

What's best is relative to your expectations. In my opinion, you don't need one.

What is the best usb turntable for the MacBook Pro?

What is the best usb turntable for the MacBook Pro? I need to back up my vinyl records that are rare.

Google, "best usb turntable for mac" and you do the research and read the reviews.

I just replaced the hard drive on my macbook pro, reformatted new hard drive and copied over a backup from time machine now I have a kernel panic message (you must restart) - what do I do now?

i just replaced the hard drive on my macbook pro, reformatted new hard drive, installed a back up from time machine and now have kernel panic ( you must restart your computer) what do I need to do?

If you're able to boot, launch the Console application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ If you’re running Mac OS X 10.7 or later, open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Console in the page that opens.
Select the most recent panic log under System Diagnostic Reports. Post the contents – the text, please, not a screenshot. For privacy’s sake, I suggest you edit out the “Anonymous UUID,” a long string of letters, numbers, and dashes in the header and body of the report, if it’s present (it may not be.) Please don't post "shutdownStall" or "hang" reports.
If you can't boot in the usual way, try a safe boot. The instructions provided by Apple are as follows:
Be sure your Mac is shut down.
Press the power button.
Immediately after you hear the startup tone, hold the Shift key. The Shift key should be held as soon as possible after the startup tone, but not before the tone.
Release the Shift key when you see the gray Apple icon and the progress indicator (looks like a spinning gear).
During startup, you’ll see a progress bar, and then the login screen, which appears even if you normally log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
Safe mode is slower than normal, and some things won’t work at all.

HT4110 What is the best battery setting for the MacBook Pro 13 Retina display?

I want to know the best setting for the battery for the MacBook Pro 13 Retina display.

To add just a little
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
And best "tip" is if its near a socket,...plug it in as long as you can (especially at home) since cycle count on the battery are the "miles that wear out the tires (battery)", however again, not plugged in all or most of the time.
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
General rule to remember of Lithium batteries is:
Never drain them LOW & dont always/often store them HIGH
While cycle count is commonly seen to be the “miles” on your Lithium Ion pack cell in your Macbook, which they are, this distinction is not a fine line at all, and it is a big misconception to “count charge cycles”
*A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 50-60% remaining of a 100% charge has better battery usage and care than another person who has 300 charge cycles at say 15% remaining on a 100% charge.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
                          (as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
                    This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
LiPo (lithium polymer, same as in your Macbook) batteries do not need conditioning. However...
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium cells the "80% Rule" ...meaning use 80% of the charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life.
Never let your Macbook go into shutdown and safe mode from loss of power, you can corrupt files that way, and the batteries do not like it.
The only quantified abuse seen to Lithium cells are instances when often the cells are repeatedly drained very low…. key word being "often"
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
From Apple on batteries:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
Peace

What is the best spam filter for a MacBook Pro?

I am getting a lot of spam suddenly. What is the best way to deal with this for a MacBook Pro?

This article gives some useful guidance:
http://www.maclife.com/article/columns/maclife_101_how_filter_spam_apple_mail
See here as well:
https://discussions.apple.com/message/3499468#3499468

Do I need to buy extra cable for my macbook pro 2011 and cintiq 12WX?

Hi every one,
I want to buy a cintiq 12wx for my macbook pro 2011 and just wondering if i need to buy extra cable to connect them together. Thank you very much for your responses.

For output from your MBP, you will need to tap either the DVI, mini display port or Thunderbolt port, depending on its age/model. This will connect to the cintiq 12wx via whatever input configuration that they have. I do not know if they supply and cables or not. If it is a VGA input, there are a multitude of adapters available. OWC or Newegg would be good sources to get the proper cables or adapters.
Ciao.

Internet Explorer for 2010 MacBook Pro

I have a 2010 MacBook Pro running OSX 10.9.2 and I need to run Internet Explorer to complete regulatory forms at the Energy Information Agency. I have tried CrossOver (which doesn't work) and can't download Virtual Box. Neither Safari nor Firefox is supported by the EIA. I could use Chrome if it were 64-bit. Does anyone have any suggestions? Short of buying a windows machine? Thanks.

Susan P 617 wrote:
Does anyone have any suggestions? Short of buying a windows machine? Thanks.
Do you have any objections to running Windows on your Mac? That is the other way to get guaranteed IE compatibility. Since you just need to get at the web browser, you could use free VirtualBox and install the most minimal compatible Windows version you can find (like this one). This would be much cheaper than buying a Windows machine.
Also, you could try running IE within CrossOver, which is not a full virtualizer but seems to be able to run Windows IE on a Mac without having to buy/install Windows. I have not tried this myself, though; because I use Parallels Desktop to run Windows 8 only when needed.

MacBook Pro 2009 new hard drive install results in very slow function and freezing

I just wanted to post my resolution to a problem that I had trouble finding an answer to on these forums.
Short version:
I replaced the hard drive in my 2009 MacBook Pro because the computer froze and upon reboot the Disk Utility said it was corrupted, but with the new hard drive the computer ran very slowly and often showed the spinning rainbow wheel. I replaced the SATA cable that connects the hard drive to the motherboard and it works perfectly once again.
Long version:
Recently my MacBook Pro (2009 running Snow Leopard) froze up and I performed a hard reset by holding down the power button. When I turned the computer back on it would not boot OS so I ran disk utility from the Snow Leopard install DVD. The test said the hard drive was corrupted, and since the computer is way past warranty I decided to change the drive out myself. I bought a 500GB Seagate Momentus 5400 Drive from Amazon, opened the computer and replaced the existing hard drive with the new one. When I first booted from the OS install DVD, my computer was not recognizing that any hard drive was present. I read somewhere on these forums that sometimes the formatting on new Seagate drives can't be read by MacBooks and they need to be reformatted using another computer, but I tried simply taking the hard drive out and putting it back in a couple of times thinking maybe I had just not plugged it in correctly. After the 4th attempt the hard drive magically showed up, and I was able to reformat the drive and install OS and even Windows XP on bootcamp.
Everything seemed to be okay but applications were running slowly considering this was a fresh drive and OS install. Over time, the computer started to hang more and more. In OS I would get the spinning rainbow wheel even when doing something as simple as opening a browser window in Chrome or trying to type into a text field. When I tried to use Windows it would simply freeze after only a short time and I'd have to do a hard reset.
I went to the Genius Bar at the Apple store which was unhelpful, so I continued searching through these forums to try to figure out the problem. I noticed a lot of people had trouble with the SATA cable that came with the computer because it's quite thin and delicate, and would get damaged when changing out the hard drive. However most of these people seemed to experience a question mark when starting up the computer, whereas mine would fully boot and be functional for a time. I thought it unlikely that a damaged cable could possibly leave the computer partially functional. Finally though I gave in a dropped the $26 for a new SATA cable on Amazon. As soon as I installed it the problem was fixed, and the computer runs as fast as when I first bought it. I don't know if I damaged the cable changing the hard drive (I was extremely careful) or if my original hard drive was not actually corrupted and the cable was already damaged. I mentioned the possibility of the cable being damaged at the Apple store and the representative said that often times they fail because people carry the laptop with one hand, and because of the way this model was designed this puts a lot of pressure right on that thin cable. Regardless, if you do plan on changing out your hard drive in your MacBook keep in mind that the SATA cable is sensitive, and that if you experience problems with a fresh hard drive and OS install the SATA cable is a likely culprit.

If you think you have either a hard drive or a cable problem, to the best of my knowledge the only product that can help isolate both of them is Scannerz. You can check it out at:
http://scsc-online.com/Scannerz.html
I think that's the correct link. If it isn't and you're interested and that's wrong, just google it. I'd also check out their downloads section, especially the sort of short document on using path isolation to detect and isolate problems.
Scannerz can detect both errors and irregularities. It uses the surface scan progress as a reference. Cable problems never show up at the same location because they're typically intermittent. Surface problems always show up at the exact same place. That's the only product (at least commercially available) that can do that.
I don't know if this information is of any value to you because it sort of sounds like you've already solved the problem, but it might be of use if you have problems in the future.
In any case, I've seen several posts on several different sites where people were reporting insulation break down on some of the SATA cables. Apparently the insulation breaks down and the cable starts shorting to the case.

2010 Macbook Pro no longer recognizes drive, tried replacing HD+cable

Hello,
About a week ago during user sign-in my 2010 13" Macbook Pro froze. I forced restarted. Upon restart, I got the dreaded screen with the question mark folder. I did the usual, booted from the install CD. Installer couldn't locate drive to install to. Nor could disk utlity to repair anything. I suspected HD failure, so I replaced the drive with one I had on hand. The new HD was still not recognized by the system. I did put the old original drive back in, just to test it, and it actually did boot 1 time, but froze almost immediately. I put the drive in an external SATA enclosure and booted from USB. Booted fine, pulled off all my files, etc. So I then replaced the SATA cable. After replacing it, the computer did recognize the drive, but only if I held Option and told it to boot from the internal HD. Now I'm not getting the question-mark folder (unless I don't do the Option-select drive, in which case, if I do a normal power-button boot, I stlll get the question-mark folder), but instead, after selecting the drive, I'm getting a grey-screen with crossed-out circle (kernal panic?).
Everything else seems to be working fine. I took it to an Apple Store, he ran a diagnostic on it, and all he could tell me was that the HD isn't being recognized. Is my motherboard or SATA port on the motherboard shot or something? If the MoBo shot, why would we go from not seeing the drive at all (hence the question-mark folder and it not being recognized under any situation), to me replacing the SATA cable and getting the supposed kernal panic symbol.
Any thoughts?

At the Apple Store, all I was told was that the computer was not recognizing the HD. No more than that. He told me a HD replacement would be upwards of $200. I took it to the Apple Store before I tried to do anthing myself. He suggested that it could either be the HD itself, or the cable. So, seeing as a HD replacment isn't brain surgery, and that I could do it for significantly less than $200, I did it myself. So I replaced the HD, that did nothing. After replacing the HD the computer would still not recognize its existence, under any circumstance. I tried Option, resetting PRAM, booting into recovery, booting from the install disk, launching disk utility, running the hardware diagnostic from the CD ... under all cases, the HD was not recognized. Seeing as it still wasn't recognized even with the new drive, I replaced the SATA cable. Again, as stated in my description above, replacing the cable only changed the problem from not recognizing the HD at all, to recognizing it now (when, and only when I hold Option) and booting to the crossed-out circle screen. It doesn't even recognize it every time I hold Option to launch the StartUp Manager. Only a few times out of 10 will it even recognize its there. I also tried, once again, doing all the usual - resetting PRAM, CD install, recover, disk utility, etc... and none of those ever recognize its there. Its only the rare case that it will recognize the new-drive and new-cable configuration in the StartUp manager, I select the drive, and it boots only to the crossed-out circle grey screen.
I have put the original drive in an external SATA enclosure and the computer will boot from it and works fine, except as would be expected, its incredibly slow because its running through a USB port instead of a SATA connection.

What is the best hardshell case for 13" macbook pro??

I wanted to know what is the best hardshell case for the 13 inch macbook pro(2010). I want one for school usage because i will be taking it around. Also i want one that doesnt scratch the macbook's aluminum.
THANKS!

I think the best / strongest / hardest cases are the MacTruck
They aren't light but mine's been round the world a few times and kept my MBP safe in some crazy situations (like schools can be)
http://www.radtech.us/Products/MacTruck.aspx

What's the best game controller for a MacBook Pro?

I have a mid-2012, non-Retina, 13" MacBook Pro with a 2.5 Ghz i5 and 8 GB of RAM. My current OS is 10.9.1. I've played Starcraft 2 for some time without any problems, but there are a few newer games on the Mac App Store that look like they'd be no fun with a keyboard and mouse. I'm hoping people here have recommendations for the best game pads or controllers that are compatible with Mac.
Please let me know if you have a controller that works really well for you, thanks!

I like the Logitech Gamepad F310 for games on my Mac. You're right new games are much better with a game controller!

What are the best graphics available for the Macbook Pro 13"

I am 13 years old and I am looking at a Macbook Pro.
I am between the 15" and 13". The only thing stopping me from going straight to the 13" is the graphics. I hear they aren't that good. Is there anyway to get the graphics from the 15" and 17" or just any graphics that are better than the 13" ones"?
I will be using it mainly for movies and games, but i am not a huge gamer and I dont expext the very best.

Thanks
But the reason i like the 13" better is because i find the 15" to big for my liking.
Are the graphics that bad? Will i notice it?

Best firewire cable for 2010 macbook pro 13 to new Seagate drive?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for