Best monitor for MacBook Pro (Late 2012)

After searching Apple's knowledge base (reference: Using 4K displays and Ultra HD TVs with Mac computers - Apple Support), it appears that MacBook Pro (Late 2012 model) does not support 4K monitors, correct?
If this is the case, what's the best monitor (resolution and pricepoint) I can get for this model? Should I just try to find an old refurbished 27" Thunderbolt Display?
My MBPr runs a 2.9Ghz Intel Core i7 w/8GB RAM and OS X v10.9.5.
Thanks,
Nicholas

A Dell ultra Sharp would be a good buy. Depending on what size you want:
http://www.amazon.com/Dell-UltraSharp-27-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B00P0EQD1Q
Otherwise, if you don't mind spending the money, and not worried about not using the monitor to its fullest this BENQ is an excellent monitor
http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-BL3201PH-Monitor-32-Inch-LED-Lit/dp/B00O1B5M9I/ref=sr _1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1424384286&sr=1-11&keywords=4k+monitors

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Compatible Monitor for MacBook Pro late 2011

Hello, I would like to purchase a monitor to use with my MacBook Pro "Core i7" 2.2 15" Late 2011
I found some cheap models from Dell but I'm not exactly sure what specs to look for in order to have a fully compatible monitor.
Could you eventually help me?
Thank you in advance
MacBook Pro's Technical Specs (from http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i7-2.2- 15-late-2011-unibody-thunderbolt-specs.html)
Connectivity includes AirPort Extreme (802.11a/b/g/n), Bluetooth 2.1+EDR, Gigabit Ethernet, a Firewire "800" port, two USB 2.0 ports, separate audio in and out ports, an SDXC card slot, and a "Thunderbolt" port that is backwards compatible with Mini DisplayPort and, likewise, supports an external display at 2560x1600 and passes an audio signal. Thunderbolt also supports other peripherals that use the Thunderbolt standard which provides up to 10 Gbps of bandwidth in both directions.

I've never seen a monitor that requires drivers to be installed. Maybe that's why you can't find any. All, at least that I know of will work with any computer. But I may just not be aware of any that won't/don't work with your Macbook Pro.

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http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&cs=ussoho1&l=en&sku=2 24-8284

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If you use an external keyboard, USB or BT (as a desktop computer, you could use USB
and use a powered USB hub for printer, mouse, keyboard, etc and to import from devices
such as cameras, etc) and either get a stand to keep the MacBook Pro on edge out of
the way with the lid closed, or use it on a different stand to keep it up off the desk so air
can flow around it, with display lid open, for maximum cooling & extended/mirror desktop
use of the integrated display along with an external.
The battery should be used on occasion and not overly 'cycled' since it likely is one good
for up to 1,000 cycles of discharge & recharge; but never let it go completely flat or that
would damage its ability to carry a full charge. If I'm not mistaken that model is one with
an integrated or hidden battery behind the bottom plate, so it can't be removed and run;
but then if you did remove a laptop battery, it likely would cause the processor to reduce
speed and be less than optimal specification when you needed it for higher function tasks.
There are articles in Apple Support database on how to care for a portable Mac battery
and also some may be dated in that older models are suggested to be Calibrated on
occasion and the newest batteries (such as those in Retina models) are different. If you
have a MacBook/Pro with non-Retina display, check the support articles to see if that
model, with a built-in SuperDrive, could benefit form Calibration of the battery.
•Apple Portables: Calibrating your computer's battery for best performance
•Apple Portables: Troubleshooting MagSafe adapters
•About Apple Notebook Batteries :
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
•About Apple Batteries in general:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
•Repair ideas for 'out-of-warranty' MagSafe AC Adapters:
https://www.ifixit.com/Device/Apple_AC_Adapter
It is a good idea to get a spare power adapter of the correct model for your Mac.
I see there are some that are exact replacement on occasion at OWC macsales.
While in use as a desktop replacement, the computer may work better if you use
USB peripherals as the BlueTooth and other accessories would see less wear;
however that may be subject to a bias against using the built-in items so they
would not have a chance to wear out. Like the internal keyboard, for example.
A USB keyboard works in situations where the BlueTooth may not, and also
is easy to replace, where the built-in one is not easy, nor inexpensive.
Expect to replace the battery before the approximate cycle life is reached,
though it may be possible to exceed 1,000 cycles as noted by some who
have said they did; however you can't be sure how they arrived there. A
matter of use-patterns and careful consideration on what the portable does
in the course of a few years time could make a difference in battery life.
Yet some batteries can go bad without timely cycling and use. But do not
let the batteries go flat, recharge before they get too low so they don't see
any damaging discharge.
With the extended AppleCare plan, an option, the battery is covered for the
total duration of the extended plan. With a built-in battery, that is a fair deal
since the replacement, when covered, includes labor. Some models were
made in such a way as to allow a careful out-of-warranty battery replacement.
Check the online sources such as iFixit to see if after AppleCare, you would
even want to try to replace the internal battery. The AppleStore Genius could
do it for a slight fee over the cost of a replacement battery at that time.
With my (now older) Apple portable computers, I use a laptop stand, USB mouse
and keyboard, powered USB hub, wireless base station with Ethernet option,
both wired and wireless printing, & do not use an external display though I could.
That said, I use a Mini (Late 2005) G4 1.5GHz most of the time. My computers
stay on most of the time, and are allowed to sleep. They have some degree of
protection from power grid ill-effects through use of a power conditioning UPS
that can automatically switch when power goes up or down, and provides some
degree of run-time when the power goes Out. Not a whole bunch, though.
With an external display, and other accessories needed to use the Mac and to
shut it down when the power goes completely out, you may need to use more
than one UPS or uninterruptible power supply, but in some cases it has been
suggested in prior manufacturer publication, to not attach the UPS (whatever
brand) so they use the same wall socket; the excess power is expected to
surge or bypass the UPS and go to the Grounding wire. Be sure there is one.
Anyway, I have a few ideas and due to a few losses from trees hitting lines,
and outages lasting more than a week, with use of 'soft-power' generators,
my experience may vary as could my advice. Plan for the worst and hope...
Good luck & happy computing!

I recently attempted to re-install Mountain Lion on my MacBook Pro late 2012 model and the internet recovery is failing.

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Best.

There is nothing to do if you don't have a reliable Internet connection unless you have a copy of the Mountain Lion installer application from when you first installed it.
Install or Reinstall Mavericks or Mountain Lion from Scratch
Be sure you backup your files to an external drive or second internal drive because the following procedure will remove everything from the hard drive.
OS X Mavericks- Erase and reinstall OS X
OS X Mountain Lion- Erase and reinstall OS X
OS X Lion- Erase and reinstall Mac OS X
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible
because it is three times faster than wireless.

What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

Connecting 4k monitor to Macbook Pro retina 2012 mid

I tried to connect to Macbook Pro retina 2012 mid 15 inch 2.7GHZ model. Initially I connected using HDMI to 3840x2160 at 30 hz. I casually changed the resolution to 1080 p from scaled option. Now I no more get the option of scaling to 4k. I am unsure what is the issue over it. When I log into my windows. I am able to log in with my original 4k resolution in 30 HZ. Any guidance would be really great.
2) I read a few forums regarding 4k with 60hz external monitor connection for macbook pro retina 2012 mid. But I couldn't get a clear solution whether it is possible or not. Would be great if someone can show lights on this too.

jcannizzo wrote:
1- does Apple ever do exchanges for newly released products? I bought my MacBook in jan they came out with new in mar.
If you purchased the product from Apple, not a third party, you have 14 days from the date of purchase to return it for a refund or exchange. You are well past that.
2- if and when Apple comes out with a 4k or 5k thunderbolt display, will it be backwards compatible with my MacBook sich that I can't get the resolutions and 60mhz?
I do not have an answer to that and the Terms of Use for these forums discourages from speculating what Apple may or may not do in the future. Having said that, from a practical business standpoint, backwards compatibility would be a sensible approach. It has been done so in many areas in the past.
Ciao.

Macbook pro late 2012

I own Macbook pro late 2012. I noticed fried chip near fan it has six connector, three on each side. Does anyone have clear photo of this side of the motherboard?

https://www.ifixit.com/Device/MacBook_Pro_13%22_Retina_Display_Late_2012
I'd recommend that you take it in for service.

What is the best stylus for macbook pro?

What is the best stylus for macbook pro?

I dont understand? Why would a mac use a stylus when they aren't touchscreen?

HT4279 I have a Macbook Pro (late 2012) and I would like to connect it to 2 screens simultaneously (1 screen is a TV and can only take HDMI, the other is a larger computer screen and has both VGA and HDMI connections). How can I do this?

I have a Macbook Pro (late 2012) and I would like to connect it to 2 screens simultaneously (1 screen is a TV and can only take HDMI, the other is a larger computer screen and has both VGA and HDMI connections). How can I do this?

The article you cited refers to The Mac Pro, a 50lb silver tower -- not a notebook computer.
Everymac.com says:
2nd Display Support:
Dual/Mirroring*
2nd Max. Resolution:
2560x1600 (x2*)
Details:
*This model supports a simultaneous maximum resolution up to 2560x1600 on two external displays via Thunderbolt. Alternately, it can support a single display up to 2560x1600 via Thunderbolt and a single display up to 1920x1200 via HDMI. Although it can theoretically power all three external displays, as confirmed by a helpful reader, it runs too hot with three displays connected.
Also see: How many external displays can the Retina Display MacBook Pro models support? What is the maximum supported resolution of each? Are adapters required?
When using other than ThunderBolt displays, the ThunderBolt port is directly compatible with Mini DisplayPort, and can be forced into compatibility (with Single-Link DVI or HDMI up to 1920 wide) with a simple adapter.
To adapt to wider displays, an ACTIVE Dual-Link adapter is needed, about US$100.

Macbook Pro late 2012 model with intel processor and 4G of RAM. I upgraded to Yosemite and now my system is so slow.   I do not have a backup to revert to because of insufficient space. Do I need to upgrade RAM or do I have to reinstall Mtn Lion?

I have a Macbook Pro late 2012 model with intel processor and 4G of RAM. I upgraded to Yosemite and now my system is so slow.   I do not have a backup to revert to because of insufficient space. I have ordered a 1T external drive to do a backup now. What can I do to improve my system performance?   Do I need to upgrade RAM or do I have to reinstall Mtn Lion?

I have a Macbook Pro late 2012 model with intel processor and 4G of RAM. I upgraded to Yosemite and now my system is so slow.   I do not have a backup to revert to because of insufficient space. I have ordered a 1T external drive to do a backup now. What can I do to improve my system performance?   Do I need to upgrade RAM or do I have to reinstall Mtn Lion?

Adata sp900 sdd 128-GB ssd, optibay optical drive to replace superdrive, and 16 GB upgrade for macbook pro mid 2012.

Hello everyone,
Thank you in advanced for all of the support. This is my first post to the communities. I just bought a 2.9 GHz core 17 processor MacBook pro mid 2012 13" with 8 GB of RAM and I am in the process of upgrading it. When I bought the MacBook pro originally, I was told that I would never mac out the performance because I do not do a lot of photo/video editing. This is true, but I am an academic researcher and tend to multitask often, having 20+ safari tabs open, SPSS (a statistical program), full screen mail app, full screen calendar app, and preview, iTunes open all at the same time. I often get slow performance and error messages that state low memory. This is why I am interested in upgrading the laptop. I am getting ready to go to medical school and I want to have a powerful laptop. I also want to future proof because I plan on having a dual boot system to mac OS and windows OS.
Because I know I will be maxing out the performance of the computer, I want to take full advantage of upgrades, especially now because the cost of the components is reasonable at the moment. The following are the proposed upgrades:
1. Upgrade my current 8-GB ram (2x4-GB) with 16-GB ram (2x8-GB). I plan on using crucial RAM.
Crucial 16-GB Ram: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LTBJFW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&coli d=2B1KHELSPJPNN&coliid=IYGJWGQDH8LV0&psc=1
2. Replace my optical drive with a hard drive. I will place a SSD into my current hard drive position and then install my current HDD into the optical drive bay with the optibay optical drive caddy. I am doing this because I plan to use the SSD as the boot drive and my current HDD as my backup and files drive. I am putting the SDD into the HDD because I have read it is better to place it in this bay for performance. I will put the other HDD in the optical drive because the performance of that one will not be as important.
Adata SSD: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LTBJFW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&coli d=2B1KHELSPJPNN&coliid=IYGJWGQDH8LV0&psc=1
Optibay Optical Drive Caddy: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058AH2US/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&coli d=2B1KHELSPJPNN&coliid=I3GI8MGWAKXY79
My questions:
1. Is the listed RAM appropriate and sufficient for my MacBook pro?
2. Is the listed SSD appropriate and sufficient for my MacBook pro?
3. Is the listed Optical Drive Caddy appropriate and sufficient for my MacBook pro?
4. Is there still a firmware problem that does not allow for SATA 3 (6Gb/s) support in the optical drive?
5. Would it be easier to format the new SSD outside of the MacBook using a SATA to USB adapter?
6. Does working on any of the listed components void my AppleCare (I plan on keeping all of the original components so I can replace them, if I ever need to see apple support)?
7. What is the best way to put Mavericks onto the SSD to make this my boot drive?
8. What is the best way to make all of my files remain on the HDD, but link to the SSD with the operating system?
9. Has anyone ever successfully upgraded to 16-GB RAM and used their optical drive for a secondary hard drive?
10. Is there any miscellaneous advice for this project?
Please feel free to give partial answers. I know this was a lot of information, but I wanted to be efficient in my post. I am very appreciative of everyone who will contribute.
Thank you!

rmichaud91 wrote:
Hello everyone,
I just bought a 2.9 GHz core 17 processor MacBook pro mid 2012 13" with 8 GB of RAM
16 GB of RAM is the best you can do.
The optibay HD will null and void your warranty.

Best monitor for MacBook Pro (Late 2012)

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