Best Non-Apple Battery is..?

My battery finally died out on me, so now I need a replacement. Ive been looking at non-Apple batteries. Does anyone have any experience with buying said batteries?

Could you give us ven a tiny clue as to what your situation is? Like the age of the pack ... number of cycles shown ... you know, things that let us know what is happening???

Similar Messages

Non-apple battery?

I have a mid 2007 white 13" Macbook and need to replace its battery (it shows "service battery" in the menu).
The original battery by Apple is hard to find (I am not in US).
My (newbie) question is: is it OK to use a non-apple battery? Any specific brands that are recommended?
Thanks.

Apple doesn’t make any batteries. They buy them from the same manufacturers that the third party sellers are buying from. The only difference is that Apple has their logo imprinted on the battery.

What is best non apple monitor for Mac mini

What is the best non Apple monitor that is 21.5" for under $200 that can be used with a new Mac Mini?

I like both my older $200 LG Flatron and newer $160 Samsung SyncMaster monitors. Both have (digital) DVI input, the LG is on the Apple Supplied HDMI to DVI Adapter and the Samsung is on a MiniDisplay Port to DVI adapter.
Just beware that you can only use one older (analog) VGA monitor on the Thunderbolt/Display Port with Apple's MiniDisplay Port to VGA adapter and you should look at ones that support (digital) HDMI, DVI and/or DisplayPort inputs.

The best non apple bumper?

So as the title says i am looking for a bumper, and im willin got spend the 30$ for the apple bumper but i want to know if there are any other deals out there. I have the White Verizon iphone 4 and am curious as to if that free iphone 4 bumper deal is still going on? I may be a little late. But if anyone knows any other good bumpers out there please let me know!

Hi there! The Apple bumper case is a great case, but it doesn't conform to the phone very well. For a tighter fit and more eye appealing look I would reccomend the Scosche bandEdge. http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-bandEDGE-iPhone-Clear-Black/dp/B003R79194/ref=sr_1 _cc_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1318191334&sr=1-1-catcorr
Hope that helps. Have a great day!

What is best non-apple display for 15 inch macbook pro with retina display?

I am looking for a good and reasonably priced monitor to use with my MBP retina. I prefer one that rotates 90 degrees for portrait viewing. Any suggestions?
What adapter is needed to get good quality? Is the dual link adapter worth $100? Is it very much clearer than DVI? How does the HDMI connection compare? I've heard that HDMI only works as an external display in clamshell mode (computer closed). Does HDMI transmit sound and video or would I need two cords?
Thanks for any help!

The dual-link adapter is needed only for resolutions over 1920 x 1200. It won't improve the picture of lower resolution displays.
HDMI carries audio and video (up tp 1920 x 1200).
DVI (single or dual-link) is video only.
Mini DisplayPort (or DisplayPort with an adapter cable) is audio and video (up to 2560 x 1600).
All will give the same picture quality.

Replacement iBook G3 battery not recognised - non Apple brand

Hi World
Try this conundrum for size...
I bought 'new' (non-Apple) battery on Ebay and my iBook does not appear to recognise it. i.e amber charge light does not illuminate - it stays green. I've done a PMU reset, Battery Rest 2.0, Restarted the iBook etc etc - nothing seems to work. The only reason I want a new battery is to avoid resetting the date every time I restart the iBook - I never travel with it and it's always powered from the mains electricity.
For information - the original (dead) Apple battery happily illuminates amber - but obviously can not store a charge.
I have also received a replacement for the intial new battery and it is still showing the same response i.e. no amber glow
Is there a printed circuit in these batteries that is needed to say 'hello' in an exact way and therefore allow charging to occur? If so, if I were to extract the new cells from my new battery and somehow wire them into the old Apple case, would that work? (I have read about spot soldering and it sounds a bit daunting)
Any answers gratefully appreciated
Any answers

FIRST: You wrote "Is there a printed circuit in these batteries that is needed to say 'hello' in an exact way and therefore allow charging to occur? If so, if I were to extract the new cells from my new battery and somehow wire them into the old Apple case, would that work? (I have read about spot soldering and it sounds a bit daunting)"
I think these batteries do contain some electronic circuitry, but I don't know whether that's the source of your problem (read on). In any case, with many years of technical work under my belt, I would be reluctant to attempt the cell transfer you suggest -- batteries have a way of being more dangerous than people think, as there's a fair amount of energy stored there.
But, on to your problem. You might nott want to say, but I'd be interested in the source of these batteries, as I'm in the middle of a "new" battery experience that has some similarities:
For reasons I won't go into, I have four iBooks in my possession -- and all had batteries in various states of decrepitude (some wouldn't take a charge at all, some would take different amounts of charge at different times, all were essentially useless). BUT ALL WERE RECOGNIZED BY THE COMPUTER.
So I purchased, on-line, two new batteries and they were delivered quickly. BOTH of them worked immediately and perfectly in TWO of the four computers, but went totally unrecognized in the other two computers. After considering the possibilities, I concluded that the problem might well be a very small misalignment of the connectors in the computers that didn't work with the connectors on the new batteries. (I'm talking about the plastic-shrouded 6-pin connectors, one in the computer and one on the battery, that engage when you install the battery). There is precedence for this kind of issue, as I have seen reports on the web of people resorting to cardboard shims to improve the engagement of the connectors. But, in my case, there simply is not room for any such shims, and nudging the battery one way or the other (a tiny distance) didn't make them work.
I had unrelated internal work to do on one of the two computers that didn't recognize the batteries.
While I had it apart, I replaced the battery charger board, which incorporates one of the mating connectors. (+I didn't suspect the electronics of that board, rather the physical positioning of the board as secured in the computer case, or of the connector on the board+.) The result was that this computer now worked with one of the new batteries but continued not recognizing the other new battery.
What this comes down to, I think, is a physical tolerance issue -- probably with the lateral positioning of the connectors, either in the computer, or on the battery, or a combination of both. It could also have to do with the connector condition. The connector in the computer is obviously (usually) as old as the computer itself; the connector on the battery is . . . who knows? Although the battery is said to be new, the battery manufacturers may somehow make use of old battery cases (and connectors). Most if not all connectors rely on some spring tension in the contacts to keep the contacts mated, and the contacts can also be affected by corrosion -- and deterioration of older connectors is simply a real possibility.
Would be really interested in what approach you take and the results. Please post back.
There seem to be a lot of sources for these batteries on-line, but it's possible they all come from a small number of outfits (or even just one outfit) that builds (or rebuilds) them. If, ultimately, all the battery cases (with the connector) come from just one source, then the problem might be likely to show up no matter what your source (or the name on the battery, etc.) If I'm correct on this, then it's going the be a gamble as to whether a battery purchased from another source will solve the problem.
But, what choice is there? I think your best bet might be to return that second battery and then buy another one from . . . ? (somebody different). Or maybe someone who follows this forum can name a recent supplier with which there has been no problem whatsoever.
Message was edited by: osimp

First off, i think it's sad that i have to use my non apple device to post this question... Why has my iPad become absolutely useless after updating to iOS 8.1? I am unable to use my mini because it crashes, slow performance, major battery drain.

First off, i think it's sad that i have to use my non apple device to post this question... Why has my iPad become absolutely useless after updating to iOS 8.1? I am unable to use my mini because it crashes, slow performance, major battery drain.

Restore iPad to Factory Default; do not restore from backup. It may be the cause of the problem.
Settings>General>Reset>Erase all content and settings

Best way to sync contacts and calendars to non apple devices

Hi. I need to be ale to share my calendars and contacts so I can access them on non apple devices.
I've tried using google but find the syncing of contacts from osx address book to be really unreliable. Does anyone have any advice on the best way to do it?

If you want a more open system use Google instead of iCloud, but iCloud is supported on OSX, IOS, Windows, and with the purchase of a few apps can be made to work (although not with all features) on Android systems.
I have no idea if it will work on a Windows phone.

Non-Apple iBook batteries and how this affects the warranty

I have a 14" G4 iBook (not eligible for the Apple battery replacement program) in which the original battery is clearly dying after almost two years of heavy use. There are vendors out there selling non-Apple replacement iBook batteries, and some make claims that they outperform the Apple batteries. What's Apple's position on this in regards to the warranty; i.e., would simply installing a third party battery void the warranty if some other component went bad, or would there have to be some obvious cause and effect relationship?
Does anyone have any experience with non-Apple batteries or a vendor you could recommend?
Thank you,
Doug R.
iBook G4 14 in 1.33 Mhz Mac OS X (10.3.9)
IMac 1.83 Ghz Intel Core Duo Mac OS X (10.4.6)

Douglas,
As Apple's policy is not something one can discuss here (see the Terms of Use on the right), your best bet is to ask the question of AppleCare directly. This is just a user to user forum.

Non-Apple Product for Powerbook G4 12"

I often do chatting online with friends, so i wish to have a webcam, can I use NON-Apple webcam for my powerbook G4 12" 1GHz Combo Drive?
Mine is a Combo drive, I wish to upgrape it to DVD burner, again! Any NON-Apple DVD burner(internal/external) for my notebook?
Please recommend one or two to me, i will feel very grateful! Thanks in advance!

personally dont recommend it. Non apple batteries in my experience are more prone to overheating. Ebay is the best source for these... but again you may be able to find an apple battery there too.
I got a brand new one for around $50 off ebay.
best of luck!

I want a new and more powerful (non-Apple) wireless router but I still want to use my existing Time Capsule to continue with my Time Machine backups and I still need the Time Capsule's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features and capabilities

THE SHORTER STORY
My goal is to successfully use my existing Time Capsule (TC) with a new and more powerful wireless router. I need a new and more powerful wireless router in order to reach a distant Denon a/v receiver that is physically located in a master bedroom some 50 feet away from my modem. I need to provide this Denon a/v receiver with an Internet connection so that it can obtain its firmware updates and I need to connect this Denon a/v receiver to my network in order to use its AirPlay feature. I believe l still need the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features because I am not sure if the new wireless router will provide me with the NAS like features / capabilities I need to share files between my two Apple laptops with OS X 10.8.2. And I know that I absolutely need my TC's seamless integration with Apple's Time Machine (TM) application in order to continue to make effortless backups of my two Apple laptops. To my knowledge nothing works with TM like Apple's TC. I also need the hard disk storage space built into the TC.
I cannot use a long wired Ethernet cable connection in this apartment and I cannot use power-line adapters. I have read that wireless range extenders and repeaters are difficult to successfully set-up and that they will reduce data speeds, especially so when incorrectly set-up. I cannot relocate my modem and/or primary base station wireless router.
In short, I want to use my TC with my new and more powerful wireless router. I need to stop using the TC to connect to the modem. However, I still need the TC for seamless TM backups. I also need to use the TC's built in hard drive for storage. And I may still need the TC's NAS capabilities to share files wirelessly between laptops because I am assuming the new wireless router will not provide NAS capabilities for OS X 10.8.2 (products like this/non-Apple products rarely seem to work with OS X 10.8.2/Macs to provide NAS features and capabilities). Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone please advise on how to set-up my new Asus wireless router with my existing TC in such a way to accomplish all of this?
What is the best configuration or set-up to accomplish my above goals?
Thank you in advance for your assistance!!!
THE FULL STORY
I live in an apartment building where my existing Time Capsule (TC) is located in my living room and serves many purposes. Specially, my TC is at least all of the following:
(1) Wi-Fi router connected to Comcast Internet service via Motorola SB6121 cable modem - currently the TC is the Wi-Fi base station that connects to the modem and has the gateway address to the Internet. The TC now provides the DHCP service for the Wi-Fi network.
(2) Wireless router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to several Wi-Fi clients - two Apple laptop computers, an iPod touch, an iPad and an iPhone all connect wirelessly to the Internet via the TC.
(3) Wired Ethernet router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to three different devices - a Panasonic TV, LG Blu-Ray player and an Apple TV each use one of the three LAN ports on the back of the TC to gain access to the Internet.
(4) Primary base station in my attempt to extend my wireless network to a distant (located far away) Denon a/v receiver requiring a wired Ethernet connection - In addition to the TC, which is my primary base station, I am also using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. I cannot use a wired Ethernet connection to continuously travel from the living room to the master bedroom. The distance is too great as I cannot effectively hide the Ethernet cable in this apartment.
(5) Time Machine (TM) backup facilitator - I use my TC to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops using Apple's Time Machine (TM) application. However, I ran out of storage space on my TC and therefore added external storage to it. Specifically, I added an external hard drive to my TC via the USB port on the back of the TC. I now use this added external hard drive connected to the TC via USB as the destination storage drive for my TM back-ups. I have partitioned the added external hard drive, and each of the several partitions all have enough storage space (e.g., each of the two partitions used by TM are sized at three times the hard drive space of each laptop, etc.). Everything works flawlessly.
(6) Network Attached Storage (NAS) - In addition to using the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) capabilities to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops via TM, I also store other additional files on both (A) the hard drive built into the TC and (B) the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB (there are additional separate partitions on this drive for these other additional and non-TM backup files).
I use the TC's NAS feature with my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Again, everything works wirelessly and flawlessly. (Note: the Apple TV is connected to the network via Ethernet and a LAN port on the back of the TC).
The issue I am having is when I try to listen to music via Apple's AirPlay in the master bedroom. This master bedroom is located at a distance of two rooms away from the TC's current location in the living room, which is a distance of about 50 feet. This apartment has a long rectangular floor plan where each room is connected to the next in a straight line. In order to use AirPlay in the master bedroom I am using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. This additional base station connects wirelessly to the WiFi network provided by my TC and then gives my Denon receiver the wired Ethernet connection it needs to use AirPlay. I have tried moving my iTunes music directly onto my laptop's hard drive, and then I used AirPlay on this same laptop to connect to the Denon receiver. I always get a successful connection and the song plays, but the problem is that the connection inevitably drops.
I live in an apartment building and all of the many wireless routers in this building create a great deal of WiFi interference on both the 2.4 GHz and 5GHz bands. I have tried connecting the Netgear product to each the 2.4 and 5 GHz bands, but neither band can successfully maintain a wireless connection between the TC and the Netgear product. I also attempted to maintain a wireless connection to an iPod touch using the 2.4 GHz band and AirPlay on this iPod touch to play music on the Denon receiver. Again, I was able to establish a connection and successfully play music, but after a few minutes the connection dropped and the music stopped playing. I therefore have concluded that I have a poor wireless connection in the master bedroom. I can establish a connection, but it is intermittent with frequent drops. I have verified this with both laptops by working in the master bedroom for an entire day on both laptops. The Internet connection in this master bedroom proved to drop out frequently - about once an hour with the laptops. The wireless connection and the frequency of its dropout are far worse with the iPod touch and an iPhone.
I cannot relocate the TC. Also, this is an apartment and I therefore cannot extend the range of my network with Ethernet cable (I cannot drill through walls/ceilings, etc.). It is an old building with antiquated wiring and power-line adapters are not likely to function properly, nor can I spare the direct power outlet required with a power-line adapter. I simply need every outlet I can get and cannot afford to block any direct outlet.
My solution is to use a more powerful wireless router. I found the ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router which will likely provide a better connection to my wireless Internet in the master bedroom than the TC. The 802.11ac band of this Asus wireless router is totally useless to me, but based on what I have read I believe this router will provide a stronger connection at greater distances then my TC. And I will be ready for 802.11ac when it becomes more widely available.
However, I still need to maintain the TC's ability to work seamlessly with TM to backup my two laptops. Also, I doubt the new Asus router will provide OS X 10.8.2 with NAS like features and capabilities. Therefore, I still would like to use the TC's NAS capabilities to share files on my network wirelessly assuming the Asus wireless router fails to provide this feature. I need a new and more powerful wireless router, but I need to maintain the TC's NAS features and seamless integration with TM. Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone advise on how to set-up my existing TC with this new Asus wireless router in such a way to accomplish all of this?
Modem
Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
Existing Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Apple Time Capsule
Apple Time Capsule MC343LL/A 1TB Sim DualBand (purchased June 2010, likely the Winter 2009 Model)
Desired New Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Non-Apple Asus
ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router
Extended Wi-Fi Base Station - Provides an Ethernet Connection to a Denon A/V Receiver Two Rooms Away from the Modem
Netgear Universal Dual Band Wireless Internet Adapter for TV & Blu-Ray (WNCE3001)
Addition External Hard Drive Attached to the Existing Apple Time Capsule via USB
WD My Book Studio 4TB Mac External Hard Drive Storage USB 3.0
Existing Laptops on the Wireless Network Requiring Time Machine Backups
MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2012) OS X 10.8.2
MacBook Pro (13-inch Mid 2010) OS X 10.8.2
Other Existing Apple Products (Clients) on the Wireless Network
iPod Touch (second generation) is model A1288.
iPad (1st generation)
Apple TV (3rd generation) - Quantity two (2)

Thanks Bob Timmons.
In regards to a Plan B, I hear ya brother. I am already on what feels like Plan Z. Getting WiFi to a far off room in an apartment building crowded with WiFi routers is a major pain.
I am basing my thoughts on the potential of a new and more powerful router reaching the far off master bedroom based on positive reviews on cnet.com, pcmag.com and pcworld.com. All 3 of these web sites have reviewed the Asus RT-AC66U 802.11AC wireless router as well as its virtual twin cousin 802.11n router. What impressed me is that all 3 sites rated this router #1 overall in terms of both range and speed (in both the 802.11n and 802.11AC flavors). They tested the router in real world scenarios where the router needed to compete with a lot of other wireless routers. One of the sites even buried this Asus router in a media room with thick walls and inside a media cabinet. This Asus router should be able to serve my 2.4 GHz band wireless clients (iPod Touch and iPhone 4) with a 2.4GHz Wireless-N band offering some 50 feet of dependable range and a 60 Mbps throughput at that range. I am hoping that works, but it's borderline for my master bedroom. My 5 GHz wireless clients (laptops) will enjoy a 5GHz Wireless-N band offering 150 feet of range and a 200 Mbps throughput at that range. I have no idea what most of that stuff means, but I did also read that Asus could reach 300 feet and I got really excited. My mileage may vary of course and I'm sure I'm making some mistakes in my interpretation of their data. However, my Winter 2009 Time Capsule was rated by cnet.com to deliver real world performance of less than that, and 802.11AC may or may not be useful to me someday. But when this Asus arrives and provides anything other than an excellent and consistent wireless signal without drops in the master bedroom it's going right back!
Your solution sounds great, but I have some questions. I'm using OS X 10.8.2 and Airport Utility (version 6.1 610.31) and on its third tab labeled "Wireless" the top option enables you to set "Network Mode" to either:
Create a wireless network
Extend a wireless network
Off
Given your advice to "Turn off the wireless on the TC," should I set Network Mode to Off? Sorry, I'm clueless in regards to how to turn off the wireless on the TC any other way. Can you provide specific steps on how to turn off the wireless on the TC? If what I wrote is correct then what should the rest of this Wireless tab look like, or perhaps it is irrelevant when wireless is off?
Next, what do you mean by "Configure the TC in Bridge Mode?" Under Airports Utility's fourth tab labeled "Network" the top option "Router Mode" allows for either:
DHCP and Nat
DHCP Only
Off (Bridge Mode)
Is your advice to Configure the TC in Bridge Mode as simple as setting Router Mode to Off (Bridge Mode)? If yes, then what should the rest of this "Network" tab look like? Anything else involved in configuring the TC in Bridge Mode or is it really as simple as setting the Router Mode to "Off (Bridge Mode)"?
How about the other tabs in Airport Utility, can they all stay as is assuming I use the same network name and password for the new Asus wireless router? Or do I need to make any other changes to the TC via Airport Utility?
Finally, in regards to your Plan B suggestion. I agree. But do you have a Plan B for me? I would greatly appreciate any alternative you could provide. Specifically, if you needed a TC's Internet connection to reach a far off corner of your home how would you do it? In the master bedroom I need both a wired Ethernet connection for the Denon a/v receiver and wireless Internet connection for the iPhone and iPod Touch.
Power-Line Adapters - High Cost, Blocks at Least One Wall Outlet and Does Not Solve the Wireless Need
I actually like exactly one power-line adapter, which is the D-Link DHP-540 PowerLine AV 500 4-Port Gigabit Switch. This D-Link power-line adapter plugs into your wall outlet with a normal sized plug (regular standard power cord much like any other electronic device) instead of all of the other recommended power-line adapters that not only use at least one wall outlet but also often block the second outlet. You cannot use a power strip with a power-line adapter which is very impractical for me. And everything about my home is strange and upside down. The wiring here is a disaster and I don't have faith in its ability to carry Internet access from the living room to the master bedroom. And this D-Link power-line adapter costs $90 each and I need at least two to make the connection to the Denon A/V receiver. So, $180 on this solution and I still don't have a dependable drop free wireless connection in the master bedroom. The Denon might get its Ethernet Internet connection from the power-line adapter, but if I want to use an iPhone 4 or iPod Touch to stream AirPlay music to the Denon wirelessly (Pandora/iTunes, etc.) from the master bedroom the wireless connection will not be stable in there and I've already spent $190 on just the two power-line adapters needed.
Extenders / Repeaters / Wirelessly Extending the Wireless Network
I have also read great things about the Amped Wireless High Power Wireless-N 600mW Gigabit Dual Band Range Extender (Repeater) SR20000G and the My Net Wi-Fi Range Extender. The former is very powerful and the latter is easier to install. Both cost about $150 ish so similar to a new Asus router. However, everything I read about Range Extenders points to them not being very effective for a far off corner of your house wherein it's apparently hard to place the range extender in the sweet spot where it both gets a strong enough signal to actually effectively extend the wireless signal and otherwise does not reduce network throughput speeds to unacceptable speeds.
Creating a Roaming Network By Hard Wiring with Ethernet Cable - Wife Would Say, "**** No!"
Even Apple seems to warn against wirelessly extending your network (see: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4145#) and otherwise strongly recommends a roaming network where Ethernet cable is used to connect two wireless base stations. However, I am in an apartment where stringing together two wireless base stations with Ethernet cable would have an extremely low wife acceptance factor (WAF). I cannot (both contractually and from a skill prospective) hide Ethernet wire in the walls or ceiling. And having visible Ethernet cable running from room-to-room would be unacceptable, especially to the wife.
So what is left? Do you have a Plan B for me? Thanks in advance for your help!

New Apple battery for macbook only lasting half as long as my old battery.

I'm having a bit of trouble here. Last month a family member needed to leave on an emergency trip but was having battery problems and didn't have time to get a new battery before catching her flight, so I gave her mine and a day or two later went to the apple store and bought a new OEM apple battery for myself. I believe that the old battery had around 80-90% left in its life and performance from the way it would act. Unfortunately this new battery would not interface with the computer at first. I followed the apple page battery troubleshooting recommendations and ended up resetting my power service manager (sorry if I'm butchering the name here) by removing the power sources and holding the power button for 5 seconds. It fixed the interface problems and the computer now recognizes the battery just fine. However, the battery life on this new battery is pretty poor. I only get about 60 minutes of youtube video watching out of it before its done (no other applications running), or about 100 minutes of general non-streaming use. My old battery was at least double this, if not more. Does anyone have any ideas where I should look next? Here is some battery information that might help:
Model Information:
Manufacturer: DP
Device name: ASMB016
Pack Lot Code: 0002
PCB Lot Code: 0000
Firmware Version: 0110
Hardware Revision: 0500
Cell Revision: 0200
Charge Information:
Charge remaining (mAh): 626
Fully charged: No
Charging: No
Full charge capacity (mAh): 4935
Health Information:
Cycle count: 9
Condition: Normal
Battery Installed: Yes
Amperage (mA): -1437
Voltage (mV): 10860
Many thanks if anyone has an idea what I should do to help fix this. My Macbook has been great other than this one issue.

Have you tried calibrating your battery?

How to connect New Airport Time Capsule to non Apple asdl router

Guys,
I have just purchased a new AirPort Time Capsule to back up the various macs in my house. I want to connect it to my wireless router which is a non apple product but the setup instructions are a little unclear to me.
My current router has simply a phone line connector and the power source coming into it. Do I simply connect an ethernet cable from the Airport to the Router. And if so, do I use the single Ethernet WAN port or one of the three Ethernet LAN ports on the rear of the airport? I assume the other end of the cable goes into any of the Ethernet slots on the back of my router which are marked 'Ethernet', or would it go into the socket marked 'Broadband WAN'?
Appreciate your help and if anyone is willing to speak on phone, I am very ahppy to call you in the next couple of hours! I am in the UK
Best, Anthony

thanks LaPastengue!
Here is what ive got
What ATT router do you have? Exact make and model please.
    gateway 2wire from at&t
What TC do you have.. Latest AC tall one?? Or older one?? If older. .please tell us the model number. A1409 for example from the base mat.
     yes I have the latest airport time capsule 2TB
Please tell us the full setup.. what is currently plugged into the main modem router??
     The Main modem route has an ethernet cord plugged in the other side of the cord is plugged into the phone      jack
Do not plug the TC in first.. plug a single ethernet TC to the computer.. Hmm. so I need an additional ethenet cord to plug the TC into the computer? Leaving the router plugged in as is?
Open the airport utility and change the TC to bridge mode.
https://discussions.apple.com/servlet/JiveServlet/downloadImage/2-23706673-32722 6/450-411/bridgev6AU.png
Update the TC and then plug it into the ATT modem and plug it into your computer or use the wireless and then tell us what happens.

24" iMac Screens better in recent batches? One non-Apple store thinks so...

I've been thinking about getting the Alu/Glass 24" iMac (waiting until at least Leopard's arrival) but after having read a number of threads here I thought I'd better go and check for myself...
I still use a PowerBook G4 15" at home and use a second cheapy (matte) monitor next to the latest white 20" iMac at work. I'm a web developer (not designer) but I would consider myself a pro user, so my standards may be higher than a typical home user, but not as high or finely tuned as a pro-photographer or graphic designer.
I visited a non-Apple store (in Stockholm, Sweden) and although I did not have a long time to play, I made a few basic adjustments to the screen settings (changed gamma from 1.8 to 2.2 and back) and the desktop background (white, light gray, dark gray, black).
Given the number and degree of negative comments I've read I was pleasantly surprised by the screen. Sure there were some colour imbalances (a little of the yellow/brown in the centre of the screen compared to the sides) but no obvious brightness differences from the left to the right side. I could not see any 'backlight bleed' issue at the bottom of the screen, nor any dark spots/corners.
The reflection however was something else! <insert your expletive of choice here>! Wow, the store itself was very brightly lit with many fluorescent tubes behind my standing position. I sure didn't need to turn around to see them, or my own reflection or that of the shoppers walking behind me.
My other concern is the screen brightness with reflection combined - I could imagine this causing eye strain and headaches. I'd need a longer trial to see if this is true for my (slightly less than middle-aged) eyeballs.
My home setting would obvious be very different to this, but opposite a window would be an absolute no-no. This may limit my options. But why should I have to think like this? Sure we had the same issue with CRT monitor way back when, but now? In 2007?
So, onto the subject...
The sales guy at the store saw me fiddling about with the demo model and came over to see what I was looking for. Without prompting from me he stated that this was the first 24" iMac he'd seen that he couldn't point to obvious display problems. This was the third batch of iMacs they had received. He said the first two batches both had dark spots or obvious brightness differences across the screen. I asked about the backlight bleed, explaining what it was, but he'd not seen it (probably because the store was too brightly lit). He agreed that there was a slight yellowing in the centre of the screen on light backgrounds, but otherwise this was by far the best he'd seen. I could probably live with it but not if I did a lot of heavy photography/design.
So have Apple have been quietly (so as to not admit a problem in the first place) making some improvements to later batches?
Personally, I'd have to trial one at home to be absolutely sure before parting with what I still consider to be a lot of money for a 'consumer' level computer (Apple or otherwise). I might try to find a supplier who can lease me a machine for a month to see if it would be ok in my situation, but quite frankly why should this be necessary?

I returned my 24"iMac today -- after receiving the long-awaited response from tech-support on their escalation of my issues/inquiries to the engineering department. The "final" (non)result is that Apple REFUSES to disclose the specific display quality standards alluded to in their claim that:
+"Apple designs, tests and certifies our displays to meet+
+stringent visual ergonomics (front of screen) criteria."+
_Apple engineering's response:_
+"The URL http://images.apple.com/environment/resources/pdf/APES24-in_iMac8-07-07.pdf+
+is for documenting the environmental requirements of the machine. For technical specifications+
+regarding the machine see http://support.apple.com/specs/imac/iMacMid2007.html.+"
_English translation:_
"+Certified? ...stringent criteria?+ You didn't really believe that BS, didya? ...BWAHAHAHA!"
They also flat-out REFUSED to comment (based on numerous screen photos and luminance measurements) on whether my iMac's display, would satisfy Apple's double-super-secret "stringent criteria."
_Apple engineering's response:_
+"Previous reports of luminescence and brightness non-uniformity+
+were found to be within the expected range for iMacs."+
_English translation:_
"Is yours within expected range? ...uh, see "+stringent criteria+," above. ...BWAHAHAHA!
I also asked repeatedly if any remedy was in the works. But of course, since the official corporate position is to deny that any problem exists, they can hardly admit to be working on a fix -- whether they are or not.
... specs?? ...we don't need no steeenking specs!!
Looby

How do I use the new Airport Express as an extender for a non-Apple router?

We have an "Arris" router in our house and are thinking of buying an Airport Express to extend the internet. How can we use the Airport express as a repeater on a non-Apple router without having to use millions of ethernet cables?

Apple designed their "extend a wireless network" to only work with other Apple routers wirelessly, so it would be extremely unlikely like it would work with an Arris wireless router.
Your best bet is to always use products from the same manufacturer if you need this type of feature on your network to insure compatibility.
If Arris does not offer a product for this purpose, a "universal" extender like the Netgear device linked below might be able to do what you want. It was not "universal" enough to extend an Apple network when I tested a device recently.
Universal WiFi Range Extender (WN3000RP) - Netgear

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