Best optical media (cd/dvd) for optical drive, iMac 21.5
I had my optical drive replaced 2 weeks ago. I had bought 3 different cd/dvd media OEMs. The imac will recognize some but others fails. Apple refuses to publish or share a list of media that will always work with their optical drive. One tech guy told me to buy only +r/+rw format. Ha, thats hard to find and much more expensive. So what is best cd/dvd -r/-rw disks to buy???? Frustrated imac owner..I cannot keep buying and returning disks! Thanks
Well, these iMac drives are finicky and, they are superslim laptop style drives installed vertically where any media could easily shift by 1/100th of an inch, so it's a gamble. I usually use my external burner - it is solid, works well, and can read anything. I've learned that the drive in my iMac likes Verbatim or Imation disks, so you might want to try one of those - they use different drives (change the mfr occasionally), so yours may be different.
Similar Messages
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I used Roxio VHS to DVD for Mac (have iMac with Snow Leopard) and the audio does not synch with the video when playing in iMovie. Any suggestions to fix?
Thanks for the reply. I tried playing with detaching the audio in iMovie, but with 20+ hours of video to correct, it would take too long. After 28 hours, Corel/Roxio tech support replied that it is a known bitrate mismatch problem and they have no real fix. I strongly suggest not to buy this product.
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What is the best VHS converter to DVD for mac
Ready to convert old VHS tapes to DVD. What is considered to be the best on the market now for Macs? Thank you for your help.
Grassvalley ADVC300
I've played around with countless other conversion systems, ranging in price from $79 to $399. Short verison, this is the ONLY unit to own. No dropped frames at all, even with questionable quality tapes, no jitter, great color, excellent sound quality. Zero setup with iMovie 06 and iDVD 09/11.
This is a prosumer deck. The time code function is alone worth the price if you have old analog footage. Absolutely NO "Out Of Sync" audio.
ADVC300 is for anyone who wants to do editing and is concerned about quality of color and speed, for the novice it is an incredible gizmo that will restore VHS tapes to a state close to the original fixing midtones, highlights and shadows on the fly. Not only can you simply convert analog to digital you can actually manipulate the signal going in (if you want to).
A bit pricey but it WORKS.
The program that comes with the ADVC300 has some nice filters that can improve video and audio of the source material.
I would use iMovie 06 with iDVD 09/11. VERY easy and 100% "lossless" -
Advice please: which is best? Internal or external for scratch drive?
My new iMac has so much hard drive space, I could use its internal drive for my scratch disk, as I don't do that much FCE. Is that a mistake? Is it better to have the media on an external drive?
There's a lot of debate about this.
Will it work? Yes.
Will it work fine? Yes, until your disk gets about 50-60% full. After that point as you use up more & more space you may notice an increasing incidence of dropped frames, stutters, etc. This is due to the physical characteristics of the hard drive. I limit my system HD to about 20-30% full (not including video files) and I don't have problems editing with FCE.
Is it preferable to use an external drive? Some people are convinced so in all cases. Certainly if you're doing a lot of video editing an external drive is a good idea. And it's always a good idea for backup ! -
Best Use of one SSD for cache drives
Hello... Months ago I added two Physical Momentus XT drives to be used as Cache only drives: One as a Cache disk, and one as a Cache Database disk. This is the only function these drives do...
Doing this really sped up large session loads...
I'm going to be getting one SSD soon, and was wondering.... Of the Two Caches.... Cache, or Cache Database...
Which would benifit the most from an SSD over a hybrid hard drive??
Seeing that the Controller is a 3Gb/sec controller only.... That's why I used two separate Cache disks..
Now that I'll have the benifit of a SSD speed over a Hybrid Drive (Faster Reads only)... Should I combine both in the SSD or still keep them separate?
Thanks! JanI have replaced 2 Momentus XT drives (One with Media Cache, and other with Cache Database) with 1 Samsung 840 SSD, which has 2 folders: CS6 Cache, and CS6 Cache Database.
Prior to pulling the drives, I tested the time it took to load a 45 min 1080i AVCHD session that had over 400 scenes, 600 2k JPEG's and about 25 pieces of music. From clicking on the session to load, until "All Media Loaded" took about 34 seconds (This is with the Cache's on separate Hard drives). Shut system down, pulled the two drives, added the one SSD drive, power up, formatted the drive and added the above mentioned folders... Then launched PPRO and pointed the Media Cache and Cache Database at these new locations... Then launched the 45 min session, and walked away while it created the data locations, peek files, etc, to the new SSD Cache Drive folders.
When It was finished, I closed, rebooted the system, Launched PPRO, and timed from the Click on the session, till the end of "All Media Loaded"... 19 seconds...
Will be watching this intently......
EDIT: SO far, I'm happy with the change.... I am interested in anyone else who has done this sort of thing before.... and in paticular, if you found any negatives of putting both cache's on the same physical drive, even if it is a SSD....
I did find my prior notes, and going from Cache's on raid (Different directory than media, though media was on same raid) to separate Momentus XT Drives decreased load time of this same 45 min project by ~ 15 seconds..
$$$ Available was only enough for one SSD, and I'm not certain if multiple SSD's for cache's would be worth the $$.... Which is pretty much why I posted here....
Looking forward to your comments... -
What's the best Inkjet Printable Blank DVD for consistant printing ?
I'm looking for advice for a reliable, consistant manufacturer of printable DVD-R's.
I burn and print short runs for clients at home, and I'm having problems finding a consistant print surface, which is a problem for reprints if i use disks from a diferent spindle. Even from the same supplier, disks have a variety of width inner circle, so I have to redesign the face before printing.
I've also found that a lot of the disks labelled as white are slightly yellow, and often have a wide inner ring that's white, but appears darker than the rest of the disk surface.
I've been using some Verbatim disks recently. They have a consistant diameter inner circle, but they are a bit yellow.
Does anyone have any suggestions for consistant inkjet printable media ?
Thanks
StephenI use Maxell, (can't beat the quility of the disk) and they are print to center media. I haven't noticed any yellow cast them, they seem white to me, from spindle to spindle.
There is a slight difference in density of color on the very center, but your going to find that on any DVD, due to the fact that that part of the disk doesn't have a reflective layer like the burnable area of the disk does, this is normal.
The printable area of Maxell disk is consistant, doesn't change from batch to batch. -
Best stable media partition filesystem for Linux/OSX dual boot
Hi there, dual booting linux and Snow Leopard.. I am re-formatting my media partition (which I keep separate from the linux and osx files so as to keep them safe if I want to reinstall/upgrade the operating systems or mess something up), and was wondering as to the best filesystem I should pick? I would do ext4, but from what I understand osx cannot read/write to it natively or in a stable fashion. Keep in mind the media partition will be used to hold/read all the files when using the computer, including when watching movies, playing music, writing documents, storing photos, etc..
Any suggestions? Thanks!gagejd wrote:How bad is this instability with hfs+? Am I going to lose some files or corrupt a few documents when I randomly reboot the computer, or shutdown improperly?
I rarely reboot or shutdown improperly, so I have no insights to offer into the impacts of these behaviours on HFS+ in Linux.
IIRC, I once had a catastrophic and irreparable error when I used the command line in Linux to change a directory name on an HFS+ filesystem from being all lowercase to start with an uppercase letter. I had to restore the filesystem contents from backup.
Other than that, I have lots of minor, easily fixable, but somewhat troublingly frequent errors with incorrect numbers of inodes and such like.
If you are bringing Windows into the equation, I seem to recall a Slashdot article from within the last couple of years which had a question re: sharing files in a triple-boot environment (Windows, OS X, and Linux). If you can track down the article, the comments may be useful. -
Best Firewire 800 HDD Options for mid-2010 iMac?
Hi all,
I've run out of space on my internal HDD and I understand that upgrading the internal HDD is rather difficult. I started looking around at external HDD's and it appears that both WD and Seagate have rolled off support in their mainline products for Firewire 800. You can still get a previous model WD Studio that has Firewire 800, but it is almost twice the price of the latest model. What are my best options for an external hard drive? Any recommendations?Here are some general tips to keep your Mac's hard drive trim and slim as possible
You should never, EVER let a conputer hard drive get completely full, EVER!
With Macs and OS X, you shouldn't let the hard drive get below 15 GBs or less of free data space.
If it does, it's time for some hard drive housecleaning.
Follow some of my tips for cleaning out, deleting and archiving data from your Mac's internal hard drive.
Have you emptied your Mac's Trash icon in the Dock?
If you use iPhoto or Aperture, both have its own trash that needs to be emptied, also.
If you store images in other locations other than iPhoto, then you will have to weed through these to determine what to archive and what to delete.
If you are an iMovie/Final Cut user, both have their own individual Trash location that needs to be emptied, too!
If you use Apple Mail app, Apple Mail also has its own trash area that needs to be emptied, too!
Delete any old or no longer needed emails and/or archive to disc, flash drives or external hard drive, older emails you want to save.
Look through your other Mailboxes and other Mail categories to see If there is other mail you can archive and/or delete.
STAY AWAY FROM DELETING ANY FILES FROM OS X SYSTEM FOLDER!
Look through your Documents folder and delete any type of old useless type files like "Read Me" type files.
Again, archive to disc, flash drives, ext. hard drives or delete any old documents you no longer use or immediately need.
Look in your Applications folder, if you have applications you haven't used in a long time, if the app doesn't have a dedicated uninstaller, then you can simply drag it into the OS X Trash icon. IF the application has an uninstaller app, then use it to completely delete the app from your Mac.
To find other large files, download an app called Omni Disk Sweeper.
http://www.omnigroup.com/more
Download an app called OnyX for your version of OS X.
http://www.titanium.free.fr/downloadonyx.php
When you install and launch it, let it do its initial automatic tests, then go to the cleaning and maintenance tabs and run the maintenance tabs that let OnyX clean out all web browser cache files, web browser histories, system cache files, delete old error log files.
Typically, iTunes and iPhoto libraries are the biggest users of HD space.
move these files/data off of your internal drive to the external hard drive and deleted off of the internal hard drive.
If you have any other large folders of personal data or projects, these should be archived or moved, also, to the optical discs, flash drives or external hard drive and then either archived to disc and/or deleted off your internal hard drive.
Moving iTunes library
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1449
Moving iPhoto library
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH2506
Moving iMovie projects folder
http://support.apple.com/kb/ph2289
Good Luck! -
Best OS to update to for my older IMac from OS X4.11-see specs
Best software update from OS X.4.11 on older IMac 5,2
1.83gh,512mb,667ghz,2mb DDR2 SDRAM, 2008 vintageHi Dorothy,
Pre-Installed MacOS:
X 10.4.7 (8K1106)
Maximum MacOS:
X 10.7.5*
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/imac/specs/imac-core-2-duo-1.83-17-inch-sp ecs.html
That being said 10.7.x was/is the pits, I'd stick with 10.6.x...
Snow Leopard/10.6.x Requirements...
General requirements
* Mac computer with an Intel processor
* 1GB of memory (I say 4GB at least, more if you can afford it)
* 5GB of available disk space (I say 30GB at least)
* DVD drive for installation
* Some features require a compatible Internet service provider; fees may apply.
* Some features require Apple’s MobileMe service; fees and terms apply.
Which apps work with Mac OS X 10.6?...
http://snowleopard.wikidot.com/
It's been pulled from the online store & Apple Stores, so you have to call Apple to buy it, last I heard.
Buy Snow Leopard > http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC573/mac-os-x-106-snow-leopard
Call Apple Sales...in the US: 1-800-MY-APPLE. Or Support... 1-800-275-2273
Other countries...
http://support.apple.com/kb/HE57
It looks like they might still have it...
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC573Z/A?fnode=MTY1NDAzOA -
What is the best sound interface to use for the new Imac 27 inch
I am going to purchase teh new iMac 27 inch and I wanted to know what is the best soundinterface to buy with a price range up to 300 -700 dollars
Check out the M-Audio website, as well as Amazon for better pricing on M-audio interfaces
http://www.m-audio.com/index.php?do=products.family&ID=recording -
Best quality to burn a dvd for duplication
Looking for the best way to get the best quality burning a dvd for duplication for resale.
I have iLife09. Its about a 33min video shot with a mini HDdvHi
My list on DVD Quality.
*DVD quality*
1. iDVD 08 & 09 has three levels of qualities.
iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality (movies up to 120 min.) - BEST
• Best Performances (movies less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6) (movies up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
2. From
• FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not selfcontaining, no conversion)
• iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
when the movie includes photos. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
• iMovie’08 not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly eg x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
This can also be done with (Apple) Disk Util tool.
4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc).
5. Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
6. DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW)
7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
8. Don’t burn more than three DVD at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while befor next batch.
iDVD quality also depends on.
• HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx 25Gb.
less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
• What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
• What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
(If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JESDeinterlacer3.2.2 do the conversion)
(Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
(US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
(EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
UNLESS. They are plabacked by a Mac - then You need not to care
• What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
• How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
Best / High Performances (most often my choise before Pro Quality)
1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
(x4 by some and may be even better)
2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
Region codes.
iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
1 = US
2 = EU
Yours Bengt W -
Since iDvd is no longer supplied with Lion, what is best to use to burn to dvd for TV?
Since iDvd is no longer supplied with Lion, what is the best product to use to burn to dvd for TV from iMac? Is there a free solution?
Thank you very much for the link. I'm in the process of evaluating the trial version of a couple of products other than iDvd. Since iDvd does not have a trial, I was wondering if you could answer a couple of questions. Once I'm done, I plan on putting up the resluts of what I've found. Work is very busy this week, so I probably won't get a chance to work on this much until next week.
Anyway, I'm importing movies from my Sony Handycam DCR-TRV20. I've used iMovie to perform the download from the camcorder (the other products don't support this). The other products can work directly on the imported .dv files without having to export things from iMovie as a .mov file. I have not had time to see if there is a quality difference between a burned DVD with .dv clips vs. .mov imported from iMovie. So my questions regarding iDvd are as follows:
Can iDvd work directly on .dv files, or do you need to import .mov from iMovie?
If iDvd can work with these files directly, is it easy to do things such as clip them and do affects on them?
Is there a quality difference when viewing a burned DVD if .dv files were used vs. imported .mov files?
Since I have later versions of the iLife products than what comes packaged in the iLife that contains iDvd, can you install only iDvd in what is purchased from Amazon?
Thank you very much is you know the answer to any of these questions. -
Are there any recovery tools for optical media?
I've had a couple of DVD's turned in to coasters recently and I was hoping that Linux could come to my rescue with some awesome 'raw-read' / recovery tools for optical media?
I burnt the discs in Windows 7 using InfraRecorder on a brand new Plextor drive (a 'PX-891SA') and these are my first attempts to burn discs with it so I'm a bit worried it could be a hardware fault!
I started off trying to back up some files to clear some space on my hard-drive, burning them to a dual-layer dvd, but the software kept failing to even start the burn process -- that was until I realised that I needed to run the program "as Administrator" (in Windows). It did then manage to burn the disc (I was using "Session-at-Once" mode) however when it came to the end of the burn process / the start of the 'verify data' phase it threw an error saying the write process had failed! Windows couldn't access the disc / data and (I think) still thought the disk was empty. So I restarted the burning application and used a function to just 'close' the whole disc. This seemed to work because Windows was then able to recognise the disc and read the data, although accessing the disc was slow and sounded 'stutter' ish.
I then tried to write a single layer dvd to finish off the last couple of gig I had to back up, but again the software completed the burn phase only to report a 'fail' error right at the end (I'm assuming) before finalising the disc. Although this time I'd tried to create a multi-session disc by using the '2XXA' (or something) 'Multi-Session' iso9660 format. The result was that Windows couldn't read the disc and still thought it was empty, even after trying a forced 'close disc' operation! -- Linux however could read the disc and see that the data had in fact been burnt to the disc (although I've not yet tried copying it in Linux!).
Finally I needed to burn a load of archives to a couple of discs (totaling ~9GiB) -- starting with a dual-layer dvd first everything seemed to be working fine, the burn process started okay and the write buffer was full etc., until at what I assume was the layer change-over it all came to a grinding halt and threw another 'write operation failed' error, only this time I can't even mount the disk in Linux....see 'dmesg | tail' output below:
[ 5758.353005] ISO 9660 Extensions: Microsoft Joliet Level 3
[ 5758.353015] ISOFS: Interleaved files not (yet) supported.
[ 5758.353016] ISOFS: File unit size != 0 for ISO file (1472).
[ 5758.353019] ISOFS: changing to secondary root
[ 5758.353035] ISOFS: Interleaved files not (yet) supported.
[ 5758.353036] ISOFS: File unit size != 0 for ISO file (1536).
[ 5758.353037] isofs_fill_super: root inode is not a directory. Corrupted media?
Does anyone have any thought or suggestions that might help?
- Is it likely to be a hardware fault? (I bought a Plextor because I thought they were one of the best!)
Maybe even if I could just close the session all would not be lost?
-- Thanks in advance --
>>>> UPDATE >>>>
I tried to use ddrescue....it was fine until it got to the end of the disk and then it sounded like the drive was chewing on a bag of pork scratchings
$ sudo ddrescue -v /dev/sr0 /mnt/odd/ddr.file ~/ddr.log
GNU ddrescue 1.16
About to copy 4029 MBytes from /dev/sr0 to /mnt/odd/ddr.file
Starting positions: infile = 0 B, outfile = 0 B
Copy block size: 128 sectors Initial skip size: 128 sectors
Sector size: 512 Bytes
Press Ctrl-C to interrupt
rescued: 4028 MB, errsize: 983 kB, current rate: 0 B/s
ipos: 4028 MB, errors: 1, average rate: 3310 kB/s
opos: 4028 MB, time since last successful read: 10.8 m
Splitting failed blocks...
Interrupted by user
...it was taking forever and getting nowhere so I just pressed 'ctrl+c'.....here's the log file:
# Rescue Logfile. Created by GNU ddrescue version 1.16
# Command line: ddrescue -v /dev/sr0 /mnt/odd/ddr.file /home/shodan/ddr.log
# current_pos current_status
0xF0213000 /
# pos size status
0x00000000 0xF0208000 +
0xF0208000 0x0000B000 -
0xF0213000 0x0000D000 /
0xF0220000 0x00000400 -
0xF0220400 0x0001FE00 /
0xF0240200 0x00000400 -
0xF0240600 0x0003FE00 /
0xF0280400 0x00000400 -
0xF0280800 0x00077600 /
0xF02F7E00 0x00000200 -
When I tried to mount the output file using $ sudo mount -ro loop /mnt/odd/ddr.file /mnt/vodd I got the same error as with the actual disc (natch)...
mount: wrong fs type, bad option, bad superblock on /dev/loop0,
missing codepage or helper program, or other error
In some cases useful info is found in syslog - try
dmesg | tail or so
Last edited by wwgfd (2012-12-14 13:18:41)@chris_l -- yeah I was worried that might be the case, still I'm not sure if that explains why it keeps failing the burn process part way through?
I've tried this and that in Linux but without much luck. I'm still quite a noob with a lot of Linux things and this is the first time I'm trying anything to do with optical disks/drives etc. so I'm learning as I go...
The disk that failed in Windows but was 'readable' in Linux did just pass a run through ddrescue -- i.e. it created an output file okay and did not report any errors in the process.
However when I mounted the resulting image and tried to copy the files across the first folder reported an "input/ouput error" (just using gui copy+paste in Thunar file manager)
...the other folders did copy okay though!
It seems as though it's the lead-in / lead-out and disc finalizing process that are the main fail points with the burn operation. I don't know if InfraRecorder is any good or likely to be the problem? Anyway the drive cam with Nero (inc. Linux version) so might give either or both of these a go too, if they don't work either then at least I wont be short of something to rest a mug o' tea on
@ chris_l (again) -- the Plextor drives do have a "Vari-Rec" feature which allows a user to 'tweak' the laser power / output level so I might try this too.
@alphaniner -- thanks I've not seen this package before, I'm guessing it's a bit like cdparanoia but for dvds?!
Thanks for the help!
(pre-post) UPDATE >>> I've just mounted my Windows partition in Linux so I'll have a crack at burning the files using cdrtools before I resort to throwing the dvd drive out of the window and chasing it around the yard with a lump hammer -
DVD/CD optical drive is recognized only occasionally and temporarily
Hi, I recently bought an ASUS Essentio desktop model CG8350 running Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit. My DVD/CD optical drive is not consistently being recognized. I've made few changes to the computer and have even tried reinstalling Windows (system recovery, factory settings), but no luck. The curious thing is that after booting up I can occasionally temporarily see the D:\ optical drive listed under My Computer or under Device Manager, but after a few seconds or about a minute after restarting or trying to read a disk, this disappears and the optical drive is no longer shown. I would take it back to Best Buy I bought it for repair, but unfortunately that was in the U.S. and I've since moved to Canada. It's frustrating that Best Buy Canada won't honor service warranties for items bought from Best Buy U.S. If there's something I can try in order to avoid shipping it off to ASUS or back to Best Buy U.S. (at my expense, and potential loss of PC for a few weeks), I would much prefer that. These are the things I have tried so far: 1) opening it up and checking/re-plugging the power cable to the optical drive and the data cable between the optical drive and motherboard. All cables seemed fine. The drive ejects and spins a little bit when a disk is inserted, but neither a blank CD/DVD nor a commercial CD are recognised after insertion. 2) looking at the registry to try the "delete UpperFilters" and "delete LowerFilters" trick that I've seen posted several times. Since the computer had Windows 7 from the start (was not upgraded), these entries were not visible under the suggested registry subkey. 3) under boot options, I've selected "Disable Driver Signature Enforcement" and have booted up. The optical drive showed up under My Computer and/or Device Manager for a few seconds or a minute, but then vanished. 4) disabled integrity checks: I've pasted "bcdedit /set loadoptions DDISABLE_INTEGRITY_CHECKS" into the Run window. After restarting, the optical drive is again occasionally visible, but only for a short period after which it disappears. 5) following a tip on one website, I tried shutting off and unplugging the data cable between optical drive & motherboard, restarting the computer so Windows could "see" there was actually no optical drive connected, then shutting off and connecting the data cable again and restarting. no luck. 6) I've run the Microsoft Support Fixit executable under "Your CD or DVD drive can't read or write media". The first time I ran this, it ran for about 5-10 minutes, but didn't diagnose a problem. The second time I tried to run it (after the Windows 7 re-install), is said my CD/DVD drive was not detected, so didn't run. 7) I've tried built-in Windows diagnostics and ASUS diagnostics, but they didn't help much. 8) I've updated ny BIOS to the most recent version. I've now run out of ideas and can't find any other suggestions on previous troubleshooting searches. The observation of the drive occasionally being seen for a few seconds/minute after start-up before disappearing seems like it might be a good clue, but I'm not sure how to interpret this. I did get it to play an audio CD a couple hours ago, but after trying to use my drive for something else after that, it's right back into the situation of not being consistently recognized, except sometimes immediately after booting up and then only for a short period. Any help or suggestions you have will be very very welcome -- thank you.
Honestly since it was recalled due to the sandy bridge recall anyways, it is going to have to go to asus eventually so I would just have them fix both in one shot. The Canada and U.S. support number is the same and I'm sure they could fix both issues at once to save you time: 1-866-625-9873
Crystal
Superuser
Forum Guidelines | Terms & Conditions | Community Guidelines | What is a Superuser?
*Remember to mark your questions solved and click the star to give kudos to show your thanks!*
While I used to be a Best Buy Employee, I no longer have any affiliation with Best Buy.
My opinions do not in any way shape or form represent Best Buy's Official decisions. -
Hi, I want to discuss the manufacturers of optical medias you use . The standard optical drive which came with our MacBooks is picky about the shining circles we put inside, so I'm interested to hear about your experiences with it . Share your wisdom!
Personally, the only DVDs I've been using so far were Verbatim. I'm fairly happy with it, but I believe that there is better option, though.
P.S. Is there any difference between DVD-R and DVD+R formats (one better than another etc.). I know it's topic people can talk to death .I see you double posted in the Network topic...anyway here's my reply:
Go to cdfreaks.com "Blank Media" forum and have a read:
http://club.cdfreaks.com/forumdisplay.php?f=33
Here's a poll for the best DVD+ media:
http://club.cdfreaks.com/poll.php?do=showresults&pollid=1655
DVD+R Taiyo Yuden are rated the best for long term storage. With DVD+R Mitsubishi / Verbatim recommended second.
Here' a poll for the best DVD- media for long term storage:
http://club.cdfreaks.com/poll.php?do=showresults&pollid=1654
Results are the same as DVD+.
It's a very interesting forum...basically users looking for the perfect burn. I've replaced my old Apple 2X DVD burner in my QuickSilver with a $30.00 LiteON (Sony) 16X burner and flashed it with CD Freaks firmware for perfect and faster burns...or close to it anyway. But you'll need to use Windows machine to update firmware...pain in the butt!
Maybe you are looking for
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