Best options for exporting a sequence and making a DVD

Hello,
I have a sequence that is 79 minutes long with the following properties:
Vid Rate - 29.97 fps
Frame Size - 1440 x 1080
Compressor - Apple Int. Codec
Pixel Aspect - HD (1440x1080)
This project began with the intention of being a short video, which is my background, and I can usually deal with exporting issues for short videos. However, it is no longer a small project. This was unexpected, and I frequently find myself in over my head. I am at the point where I need to give small theaters copies to view for consideration for a real screening, and would like to ask the folks here some questions:
How would you export this sequence for viewing on a DVD? Export through QuickTime Movie (not conversion)? Wouldn't that make a file too large to create a DVD with iDVD? DVD is only SD, yes? How is that (watching on a DVD) taken care of, if at a later time I would want a DVD of this sequence to be in the best quality possible?
This is a lot of questions, and I hope not too vague. Thank you for your time, and thanks in advance for any help.

Hi
My notes on this
FCE/P to iDVD
Several things
• How to go from FCE/P to iDVD
• Free space on Start-up hard disk
• Encoding
• Brand and type of DVDs used
• Burn speed set
• iDVD BUG
• Chapters
How to go from FCE/P to iDVD I do
• Disable Screen and Energy saver
• IMPORTANT --> FIRST in FinalCut - Mix Down Audio under Sequence Menu / Render Only / Mix-down
• Export out as a QuickTime .mov file
• Select with Mark - Chapter Mark
• Not as Self-Contained (not important but saves time and space)
• NO QUICKTIME CONVERSION (IMPORTANT)
This QT.mov file I import into iDVD from within iDVD.
Free space on Start-up hard disk
I set a minimum of 25GB (for Mac OS and iDVDs temp files)
Encoding
• I use Pro Quality encoding
Brand and type of DVDs used
• I use Verbatim
• I use DVD-R (plays on more even older DVD-players)
Burn speed set
• I set down this to x4 (or x1)
iDVD BUG
• One can not go back to movie-project for any alterations and then go back to
the iDVD project. It will notice and ask You to either Up-date or Cancel. Neither
of them will work.
Medicine - Start a brand new iDVD project.
Use of Chapters
• I only use a to z and 0 to 9 in naming them. NO other symbol/letter !
• NO Chapter-mark at very beginning - iDVD NEEDS TO set this by it self
• No Chapter marks in or within two seconds from a transition
(Way around this last one - Export movie as QT full quality and NO Chapter marks
Import this into a new Movie-project and now You are free to set C-Ms where You want
them except at very beginning - still)
Material used to build movie
• video - I use streamingDV (or convert all other to this e.g. .mp4, .avi, .wmv etc)
• audio - I use .aiff 16-bit 48kHz or from Audio-CD (44.1kHz) - no .mp3 or direct from iTunes
• photos - I use .jpg - no .bmp etc
If problems:
Trash iDVD pref. file and run Repair Permissions - and have a re-try.
from post ??
May not be relevant, but I had the same problem with iDVD, where burned DVDs showed a green screen. It was cured by quitting Quicksilver and Quickeys as well as disabling sleep and screen-saving
Yours Bengt W

Similar Messages

  • Re: Best options for exporting a sequence and making a DVD

    I using iPad 2.

    "Re: Best options for exporting a sequence and making a DVD" and "I'm using iPad 2" and "My phone number is not verified!" don't seem to be entirely related. Can you please restate your question?

  • Best option for hosting forms online and archiving the completed forms?

    Forgive the length of this post, but I feel it necessary to give a little background information into our problem.
    We were looking for a simple solution to a seemingly simple problem: Host ~15 safety forms online for field technicians (electricians) to fill out via their netbooks and submit to some sort of repository for archiving with the ability for the technicians to reopen the forms and make additions over the course of the job / week as well as firing an email off to our H&S rep per form submitted.
    Acrobat + Remote Desktop Services (SBS 2011 network) + Reader seemed like a good solution and does work, but it's somewhat cumbersome for the less computer literate techs and proving to be more time in support then we are potentially saving going with paperless forms. This is the system we have in place now.
    We initially purchased Acrobat Standard and subsequently upgraded to Professional when we found some limitations we weren't expecting in Acrobat Standard. An Adobe Sales rep also suggested that we check out Livecycle Designer 9, which was included with Acrobat Pro which included even more nice stuff. I started re-authoring the forms in LCD9.
    The issue now is that I have Dynamic XML forms with flowed content that cannot be submitted by Reader to sharepoint. Why? You can't reader extend livecycle forms with acrobat, which it is bundled with.....
    Why exactly adobe has two different and somewhat incompatible forms authoring tools bundled in the same product is beyond me, especially when one of them requires what I would imagine is an expensive server product to enable it's full use?
    So it seems I have a choice between having my employer purchase Reader Extensions ES2 to maintain the nice form design with flowed content, purchasing 12 copies of acrobat to put on the netbooks when Reader SHOULD be all that we need or converting all the dynamic XML forms authored in LCD9 into static AcroForms so they can be reader extended and deployed to sharepoint.
    We envision our technicians browsing to and logging in to our hosted sharepoint server, selecting the appropriate form template from a drop down list in a doc library or list, which opens the form for completion in the browser and on submit posts the form to a list on sharepoint for completed forms, preferably with some key fields mapped to custom columns in said list AND with the ability for the submitting technician to re-open the submitted form from sharepoint and make additions as the week / job progresses.
    What would be the best option given our current situation and needs? With all due respect, I am looking for suggestions from technically oriented or experienced persons, not sales reps that don't fully know the product.    

    Ok, so I have done some additional reading and I've found out that Livecycle forms can be submitted via reader without reader extensions so long as the submit is via HTTP Post or as XML data only.
    This effectively means you can collect the data from the submitted forms for processing, but you can not re-render the form from the form template and the XML without the presumably expensive server component, Reader Extensions, which for all I know, requires other components to run.
    This all seems awfully expensive for a solution to host a dozen or so forms and archive the submissions in one place where they can be re-opened and added to.
    I don't undestand why it's so prohibitively expensive to submit dynamic PDF forms as PDF vs submitting static PDF forms as PDF, which can be done with Acrobat Pro all by itself at ~$500.

  • Best Practices - How to adjust light in selected areas and best options for export (only adjust ligh

    Hello,
    I have the cs suite, and recently downloaded the lightroom demo. I am fairly good with picking up programs but couldn't locate where or how i can select individual elements to lighten/darken? If i wanted to make a an object lighter, should i be doing this within ps or is there an easy to use tool within lightroom?
    Second question, when exporting into ps, what is the best practice.. should i only adjust lighting and any other edits within ps?
    cheers
    Kenny from Vancouver

    Kenny
    Take a look at the Adjustment Brush. It's in the tool pallette, just below the histogram when you're in the Develop Module. It will not only dodge and burn, but allow you to apply lots of other kinds of local changes.
    In general, I find that I can do everything in Lightroom for most images.
    Hal

  • Best option for exporting

    Could anyone tell me what the best format would be to export 3 min video commercials for 3000 lumin projectors. I am currently using winamp as my video player and sending that through s-video to a video mixer then to the projectors. None of my videos come out very crisp. My footage is clean (xl2 camera) but I notice that the videos are as crisp as they should be. I export as .avi (so that winamp will play it - won't play .mov) But even when I export to .mov I get the same results.
    thanks for you time

    Why not just dl QuickTime Player for Windows and use that ?
    go .mov all the way.
    WinAmp may be adding some of it's own pixel dust ( I don't know the app at all - but it must have some controls hidden away somewhere).
    Also I can tell you from my own experience that those projectors have to be set up spot-on for focal length otherwise things can start to look fuzzy. Brightness and contrast can tweak things to appear sharper if you run out of focus adjustustment.

  • Best options for exporting true HD 1080

    I want to import HD video from a Canon HV20 and edit in FCE 4 and then export the edited movie in a format which I can write to Blu Ray disc and view through a Blu Ray set top box or PS3.
    What are the best settings to use in FCE4 as i'm really getting confused with all the different formats?
    Thanks
    Mark

    I have a Canon HV30 and capture into FCP in native HDV, 8 bit Uncompressed and ProRes 422 HQ (depending on the importance of my capture). In any of those cases, I export as an MPEG 2 Program Stream or MPEG 4 H.264 to play on the PS3. You can either dump that file to the internal PS3 HDD or I have a 500gb USB 2.0 drive connected to it which holds all my home movie exports. It's MUCH cheaper than a blu-ray player and blu -ray media.....and to my eyes....it looks the same as when I experimented with burning blu-rays.
    Remember folks, these cams aren't the same HD cams used on ESPN. You're only as good as your weakest link and in this case....it's a consumer grade HD cam. This is why I bought a Black Magic Intensity HDMI capture card and capture mostly in Uncompressed 8 bit or ProRes 422.
    Even with HDV, you'll get a better image if you're able to export your final sequence to a high bit ate MPEG 2 and dump it on the PS3.
    My 2 cents

  • Exporting and making a dvd - the best way is . . . ?

    I have just posted a question about subtitles, but now I just need to know from the experts out there what is the best/fastest
    way to export your project and make a dvd.  For years I've had issues with this - from it taking too long (up to 6 hours total
    for a feature), to it not looking like it did in the sequence.  Any links, suggestions, tips, anything would be so great!  I've
    got a crazy deadline and my export is unusable! 

    >This dvd plays in my computer, but not in my dvd player
    Chances are you inadvertantly made an HD DVD instead of a normal DVD.  DVD players will only play standard definition DVD discs.  The HD DVD format was abandoned a few years ago by its developers, but HD DVDs will play in most later model Macs.
    >Would you please tell me why you use Self-Contained and why others tell me not to use it?
    I said you could chose either.  Personally, I use a self-contained movie ... just so I'll have a finished copy of my edit that will play even if I delete the original media and render files.  Reference movies will always need to have all of the original media and render files on the computer to refer to.
    -DH

  • Installed LR 3.2, and export does not show any options for exporting to Smugmug, Facebook etc

    I fresh installed LR 3.2 on a Windows 7 computer to try out tethering (which worked fine), but then tried to export the photos, but I don't have any options for exporting to non-harddrive based locations. The "export to" drop down at the top of the export page only has "hard drive" in it. The plugin manager says that plugins for SmugMug, Facebook, etc are all enabled.
    Anyone have any ideas?
    Thanks!
    Mike

    I found too that the publishing services work differently than the plug-ins.  Not as intuitive, but work well just the same,  For me I had to do the "set-up" for the Facebook publishing service a couple of times.  I think this may have more to do with the Facebook security settings than with LR.

  • Best options for uncompressed HD master?

    I've just finished my first feature-length project in HDV on FCP, and I have some questions about output. In the past I've always been editing SD DV under 60 mins, so master output was always easy. But between the HDV and the 90 min. run time, things are a little more complicated.
    We shot and edited in native HDV 1080/60i. We've rendered our final master sequence in HD ProRes, but I don't know where to go from here. These are my main questions:
    1. My primary distribution is going to be SD DVD, but I want to keep an uncompressed HD master file backed up on multiple hard drives. What's my best output option for such a file? Can I just export a self-contained QT in sequence settings? Will that apply compression I don't want? Is there a better output option in Compressor?
    2. Keep interlaced or deinterlace? Again, most people will be seeing this as an SD DVD.
    3. I'd also like to get a local video outfit to make an HD tape master for more secure long-term archiving. What tape format is recommended?
    4. Question I should have asked but didn't? Please, do tell.
    Thanks in advance for any help.
    Stu

    Ken Summerall, Jr. wrote:
    The absolute best quality that you are going to get is by exporting a QT movie using current settings and making it self contained. Since you shot and edited in an HDV sequence this will add no further compression (remember that HDV is already heavily compressed).
    Uh-oh. That's not actually correct.
    HDV is relatively unusual as shooting formats go, in that it's a GOP format, as opposed to an I-frame format. In I-frame formats, each frame of footage (or pair of fields, if you're shooting interlaced) is compressed all by itself, independently of all other frames (or field-pairs). But in a GOP format, a number of frames are compressed together — that's what "GOP" means: "group of pictures." The first frame is compressed independently, then the next frame is described in terms of what's different from the previous frame.
    When you edit HDV +and then export it as HDV again,+ whether to videotape or to a Quicktime, the GOPs must be "conformed." As you edit, you make cuts that break the GOP structure, so the timeline cuts from the middle of one GOP to the middle of another without including the first frame on which that second GOP depends. So when you export or lay off, Final Cut has to go through and convert a bunch of I-frames to B- or P-frames, and convert a bunch of B- or P-frames to I-frames.
    In essence, exporting or laying off HDV imposes a compression hit. You will reduce the quality of your footage.
    Since the question was about the best option for mastering, HDV is +definitely not it.+ Would it be okay? That depends on the footage, and on how picky you are. But it's not the best option. The best option is to master to a (ha ha) mastering format. Uncompressed 8-bit, Uncompressed 10-bit and ProRes are good choices here.
    As for tape … that's tougher. You can absolutely send an uncompressed or ProRes Quicktime file to a dubbing house and get it laid off to videotape, but the question is to what format? HDV is a poor choice, because of the aforementioned compression hit you take when conforming the GOPs. DVCPRO HD would actually be a step down for you, because it would downsample your 1440x1080 native footage (or your 1920x1080 master, if you chose to upres) to 1280x1080.
    That leaves HDCAM and HDCAM SR. If you've done things like color correction or compositing in a 10-bit color space — or even long-slow dissolves to or from black, which is one of the places where 8-bit really falls apart on you — choose HDCAM SR. HDCAM is an 8-bit format only, and you'll lose color precision if you go to that format. But if you stayed 8-bit all the way through your workflow, then you can go to HDCAM without any real problems.
    Note that both HDCAM and HDCAM SR +are compressed formats.+ Your only option for uncompressed HD videotape is D6, and good luck finding a Voodoo recorder nearby. But HDCAM and SR are good enough for professional mastering, so they'll surely be good enough for you as well. And they're both available in 94- and 124-minute lengths, so you can master your whole feature on a single tape.
    (While you're at it, consider getting your uncompressed or ProRes master file dubbed off to a data tape format as well. You worked really hard on this project, so it makes sense to be a little paranoid about preserving the fruit of your labors.)

  • Best Codec for exporting animations with alpha channel from FCP timeline

    Whats the best codec for exporting animations (hopefully using loseless compression) that will retain alpha channel, and use the current sequence settings for fps and size?
    Currently Im exporting image sequences, but I'd prefer a wrapper.. I don't know much about the 'Animation' export codec.. I did notice that set to current size had some funky value of 753x450 or something.. instead of my current project size of 1920x1080...
    Anyhow.. Just seeing what others are doing..
    basically Im reading out some titles that I'll end up dropping over video later.. but since they render out so slowly (**** lower 3rds is slow) Im trying to get a jump on the process..
    Tx..

    PNG should do it. I think PNG is lossless (that's what they say, anyway). But realistically, if you use PNG, Animation, or JPG2000 set on highest quality, I'd dare you to tell a difference.
    I use PNG because it's supposedly lossless, renders twice as fast as Animation in a FCP timeline, and is usually about half the size.
    If you use "Export Using Quicktime Conversion", you will need to check all of the settings manually to make sure they match your sequence settings. This is always true, no matter what codec you use.
    If that sounds risky, your other option is to go into your sequence settings and change the codec to the one you want to render to (this will probably turn your whole timeline red), and then choose Export -> Quicktime movie.

  • Best setup for external hard drive and iMac?

    Just purchased a Seagate FreeAgent GoFlex 1TB external HD for my Mac OSX 10.5.8. Would like to use it to backup all my pics/writing (I am a writer/photog), videos, and music - about 400 gigs worth at present. As an analog person, I am confused as to how best I should format the drive:
    option 1 being to use drive with Time Machine (just now heard of it),
    option 2 to use drive for storage and backup (what's the diff) using Memeo software,
    option 3 to use for storage by reformatting with Disc Utilities.
    This, no doubt, is easy language for most of you, but Japanese to me, a Nuyorican.
    Again, I mainly would like to have backups for what's on my iMac, in case that dreaded day comes and it goes kaput. What would be the best option for me to simply transfer everything, unplug it and put it in a safe place? And if and when I do that, could I, two years, months, weeks later, plug it back in and add what pics or whatever I've accrued to it and replace it in that safe place once again? Looking for what is most practical for the safe keeping of my precious files.
    Hope my old tactile-inclined *** is making sense.
    Appreciate any and all assistance here. Thanks in advance.

    I have to agree with JG, I'd strongly recommend using Time Machine as your primary backup. BTW there is a forum specifically for TM that has a FAQ section and if you need it (most never do) a troubleshooting section. You can find that forum at:
    http://discussions.apple.com/forum.jspa?forumID=1227
    Many people like myself believe in redundant backups, in other words 2 is better than one. If you decide to go that route you will need a second external HD and then use software like SuperDuper or Carbon Copy Cloner. What these applications do is create bootable clones, so if your iMac's internal HD dies you have a bootable clone that you can use to run your machine until the internal HD is replaced. Dual backups are also good if one backup's HD dies.
    Below are links to 3 articles I found in MacWorld magazine, what they are is backup strategies of 3 individuals to give you some ideas so you can figure out what is best for your needs.
    Operating any computer without a backup plan is a recipe for disaster. Many people put their digital life on their computer (photographs, music, movies etc..) without a backup and then cry and moan when their computer dies. These days there is no reason one shouldn't be backing up their computer.
    http://www.macworld.com/article/157414/2011/02/mybackupplanlex.html
    http://www.macworld.com/article/156643/2011/01/howi_back_up_frakes.html?lsrc=top1
    http://www.macworld.com/article/141363/2009/07/backup.html
    Roger

  • Best Practices for Export

    I have recently begun working with a few AIC-encoded home movie files in FCPX. My goal is to compress them using h.264 for viewing on computer screens. I had a few questions about the best practices for exporting these files, as I haven't worked with editing software in quite some time.
    1) Is it always recommended that I encode my video in the same resolution as its source? For example, some of my video was shot at 1440x1080, which I can only assume is anamorphic. I originally tried to export at 1920x1080 but then changed my mind as I assumed the 1440x1080 would just stretch naturally. Does this sound right?
    2) FCPX is telling me that a few of my files are in 1080i. I'd like to encode them in 1080p as it tends to look better on computer screens. In FCPX, is it as simple as dragging my interlaced footage into a progressive timline and then exporting? I've heard about checking the "de-interlace" box under clip settings and then doubling the framerate but that seemed to make my video look worse.
    3) I've heard that it might be better practice to export my projects as master files and then encode h.264 in Compressor. Is there any truth to this? Might it be better for the interlaced to progressive conversion as well?
    Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

    1) yes. 1440 will display ax 1920.
    2) put everything in a 1080p project.
    3) Compressor will give you more options for control. The h264 from FCP is a very high data rate and makes large files.

  • What is the best setting for export movie in widescreen format?

    Please tell me what is the best setting for exporting movie in Widescreen format?

    Like in After effect we use "NTSC D1 Widescreen Square Pixel".,
    Carefully examine the codec and pixel dimensions of that output file. That's certainly easy for an experienced VFX person like yourself.
    Then carefully look over the presets in FCP to find the same attibutes. You can also use the online help system for FCP and search for "D1"
    However, your question remains unanswerable because we don't know how you're getting to the monitor. What are you playing back you AE sequences on that displays them on your LCD? You're assuming we know what you're doing and, I assure you, we do not.
    bogiesan

  • Best Settings for Exporting DVD Footage in a Movie File

    Hello,
    I've been trying to find the best settings for exporting DVD footage into a movie file from Adobe Premiere CS6.
    I recently have been using my Magnavox DVD recorder for recording VHS tapes that I made long ago for shows and various other things, and no matter what, my footage doesn't come out as it needs to be.
    Here's an example of what I did recently with my own settings:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFV4sT7rHGs
    I'm not expecting HD footage, I know these are tapes, but I'm playing the raw footage on my Xbox 360, and it looks better than this. I had to directly use the VOB files on the DVD for this, as trying to rip the files into an AVI or any other format with a DVD ripper didn't do anything, in fact it degraded the quality and made the audio not play in Premiere.
    So what would be some good settings for exporting a sequence with DVD footage that is from a VHS into a movie file, preferably one that wouldn't degrade the quality?
    Thanks!

    First, read Why not edit mpeg http://tangentsoft.net/video/mpeg/edit.html to get a general idea of why a VOB makes a very poor source file (which is a renamed MPG, with some other stuff like menu screens)
    Also, Read Bill Hunt on editing a VOB/MPG file http://forums.adobe.com/thread/464549
    Once you have a DVD compliant VOB on your timeline, and understanding that a standalone DVD recorder sometimes plays fast-n-loose with "compliance" per the DVD specification, about all you can do is export to standard or widescreen DV AVI and accept the fact that re-encoding an already compressed file is just not going to give great results

  • Process for exporting in FCPX and then using MPEG Streamclip to downgrade?

    I have footage shot with a 5Diii, and it is set at 1920x1080, 23.98p.
    When I export through FCPX at H.264, it gives me a beautiful master file, but is larger than the 4GB that I need.
    What is the process for using MPEG Streamclip to get a smaller file?
    Do I export a master file in FCPX first using a different codec, and then use MPEG Streamclip to compress it? If so, what would be the best setting to export from FCPX, and then what would be the best setting to compress at in MPEG streamclip?
    My goal is to be as close to 1080HD as possible.

    Here is the background story....... I provide movie files on a DVD delivery (files in SD quality) and then also give a copy of the same films on a flash drive so clients can have it in HD quality, and plug the flash drive directly into the TV.
    This always worked fine in the past until I ran into a movie file that is 4.7GB, and would not copy onto the flash drive, since flash drives only accept files up to 4GB.
    So I tried reformating the flashdrive to exFAT. It allowed me to copy the 4.7GB on the flashdrive, but when I tried plugging it in directly to the TV, the TV did not recognize the drive. (I learned that exFAT is not always compatable with all TVs.)
    My other option would be to download an app to let me reformat the drive into NTFS which accepts files bigger than 4GB, and supposedly works better with TVs. I haven't tried this yet because I am worried that downloading that app might mess up my computer. ???????
    So....I have come to the conclusion that the only other thing I can do is compress the 4.7GB file to be 4GB (or less) so it will fit on the flash drive which I believe had an original format was MS-DOS FAT.
    Are you suggesting instead of exporting the file from FCPX in H264, I should do it in ProRes? The file will be much larger than 4GB, but, then I can compress it, without losing as much of the quality as I would if I compressed an H264 file? Either way it needs to be 4GB or less, so I don't know if that defeats the purpose of using a ProRes file to begin with.
    Thank you so much for helping with this!

Maybe you are looking for

  • AT-MIO-16E-10 Gate signal,how can i configure it as in input or as an output ?

    Hi there ! I have AT-MIO-16E-10 board and i want to control a counter (the GPCTR0 counter of the bord) to count up depending on the gate signal.Now i have the following missunderstanding.I've read in the AT-MIO-16E-10 manual that the gate signal can

  • How to take action when vi stops running

    Sorry for the newbie question but I can't seem to find the answer anywhere. How do I go about taking action such as turning off leds or reseting some variables when my vi stops running. Is there some sort of boolean flag that I can read to determine

  • When I import my photos into lightroom 4 they all turn to black and white...what is going on?

    When importing the photos are color...but when I go to the develop module the all start going to black and white...before my eyes!

  • COLORS OFF ON CONNECTING TO TV

    Strangely enough, everything that should be red is green and vice versa, when I connect my Macbook via cable to my Sony Bravia TV. Any idea what may be causing this strange phenomenon? Calibrating in the setup screen does not seem to work...since all

  • Count incoming/outgoing messages

    Exchange 2k7 on Windows 2k3. Is there a way to count the number of messages going through my exchange server without the use of a 3rd party app? I was thinking is has to be possible with a VB or powershell script but ensure where to start.