Best printer?

Can anyone recommend a printer for home office use though wireless Time Capsule? All in one preferred. Photo printing not that important. Reasonable ink cost and reliability paramount. I looked at printers on the Apple Store web site but the reviews are mediocre. I have an HP 1315 PSC and it will not scan plus the drivers are not HP.
$200 +/-
Thanks!

Bruce L. wrote:
Can anyone recommend a printer for home office use though wireless Time Capsule?
If you want a printer to work over a network, I'd get a network printer in the first place. That's what I did.
All in one preferred.
Most multifunction devices have problems scanning over a network unless they are network devices in the first place. Paying extra for a MFD and then putting it on a Time Capsule where you may not be able to use some features is not the way I'd go.
Photo printing not that important. Reasonable ink cost and reliability paramount. I looked at printers on the Apple Store web site but the reviews are mediocre. I have an HP 1315 PSC and it will not scan plus the drivers are not HP.
I used to have a PSC1350. Trust me, I know what you mean.
$200 +/-
There are a large number of network-capable devices in that price range, from Brother, Canon, Epson, and HP, among other vendors. I personally have a Brother. Others have had good experience with Canons and Epsons. HP is, well, HP.
What are you primarily using the printer for? If text, then get a laser; there are low-end colour laser MFDs available for under $300, and monochrome laser MFDs for under $200. Straight laser printers are available for around $100. I have a Brother monochrome laser as well as a Brother colour inkjet MFD, both network-capable; the laser cost $135, the MFD $80, so the combined cost in in your ballpark. I print all my text to the laser, and the stuff that needs colour to the MFD. I'm currently on the second toner cart for the laser, and that cart cost $42; I've printed in excess of 6,000 pages between that cart and the one which shipped with the laser. I replaced the black ink in the MFD yesterday, and am currently on the second cyan, magenta, and yellow carts as well (as I mostly print colour to the MFD, the three colour carts emptied first). The inkjet doesn't give anywhere near the cost/page of the laser; carts for the inkjet cost about $14 each, so I've already spent more on ink than on toner, for well under 500 pages of output. People who print mostly text on their inkjets will see different results, as I print full-page graphics for the most part.
I expect that once someone, probably Brother or Xerox, produces a colour laser MFD which can produce graphics to the level of quality I want, and at a price I like, I'll scrap the both the laser and the inkjet MFD and use just that unit. That day is not yet here, so I use two printers. You need to think about your printing requirements and determine what you want.
Thanks!

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Pre-Size Your PPI for Best Print - Once Good Advice Still Good?

In another thread someone mentinoed pre-sizing image data to prepare it for best printing.
For a long time it's been "standard advice" to resize images so that the ppi is an even division of the printer's dpi, because some years ago occasionally one would run across printers that would produce poor results if you didn't - you might see jaggies in straight edges for example.
Thing is, computers have (not so) quietly been getting more powerful over time, and printer makers have been competing with one another to try to make their printers produce better results than the other guys. One way they've done this is by improving the quality of the algorithms in the printer drivers. Use of mega storage and high accuracy math, which was once taxing on older computer systems, is now standard practice.
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2. Does it help or matter if the image PPI is an even division of the printer's DPI?
As I have done in the past, I set out to do some actual testing, to see if I can actually SEE anything to help answer these questions.
I created a sharp image to be printed at 3 x 2 inches: http://Noel.ProDigitalSoftware.com/ForumPosts/Ghirardelli.jpg
Then I printed it at 6 different resolutions (1000, 720, 567, 300, 200, and 100 ppi) by resampling the image, labeling it, printing from Photoshop CS5, and feeding the same sheet of HP Premium Plus photo paper through my older HP 932c inkjet printer 6 times. The printer was set to its highest quality settings, including 2400 x 1200 dpi mode. This was the result:
I then looked critically and as objectively as I could at the different images. Here are my observations:
Naked eye:
The four highest resolution images (1000, 720, 567, and 300 ppi) all seemed to have an equivalent high level of crisp detail.
I could not detect the inkjet dots. Smooth objects look smooth.
Jeweler's Loupe:
I could see significant reduction in the finest details in the 300 ppi print vs. the three higher resolution prints, and a slight reduction in the 567 ppi vs. 720.
At no resolution were any jaggies or evidence of aliasing visible.
The inkjet dot pattern was plainly visible, and it does differ between the different prints. But it was not possible to say whether one was "better".
Things seem to have a little more texture in the 1000 ppi print vs. the 720 and 567 ppi prints.
Macro Photo:
Lacking a high resolution scanner, I took photographs of the 6 different prints. Unfortunately, I didn't have the time to set up with my best lighting and lens combination, so I got some reflections off the glossy paper, and and at this resolution I can't really see the inkject dots in the photos. I want to repeat this when I can find more time to do it better. As I did these photos hand-held, I believe the variances between them could be slightly influencing the results. But I'm going to post them anyway, for you to see.
I could see ever so slightly more detail in the 720 ppi print vs. the 1000 ppi print, though from the size of the tiny dust/light reflections I think it may have just been the better focused. Note that this observation is not supported by direct observation through the jeweler's loupe, above.
The 1000 ppi and 567 ppi prints seems to have slightly more noise or texture than the 720 ppi print. Again, this might be issues introduced by the photography process, though I did note a possible increase in texture in the 1000 ppi print with the jeweler's loupe as well.
Beyond just the blurring, I could see some evidence that straight lines are not quite as straight in the lower resolutions (300 ppi and lower). This seemed more apparent than with the jeweler's loupe examination, and I wonder whether the Photoshop downsampling process could have introduced it.
Left to right, top to bottom: 1000, 720, 567, 300, 200, 100:
Conclusions:
Printing to my HP 932c inkject printer on Windows 7 x64
300 ppi is not sufficient to coax the best possible detail out of an inkjet printer. It appears a number in the vicinity of 720 or more is better, and this number could be much higher with modern very high resolution printers (mine's old).
Speed was no different in printing any of these - a modern computer can process a huge amount of data in the blink of an eye.
When a sufficiently high resolution image is printed (in this case 567 ppi or higher) I saw virtually no evidence that a particular ppi value is superior, for example an even division of the printer's dpi, though in hindsight I realize I should have prepared a 600 ppi image (duh). I will add a 600 ppi image before I re-photograph the results.
It's possible ever so slightly more texture becomes visible at 1000 ppi than 720 ppi, but it might be just noise.
Practically speaking, from looking critically at the results I could not see a reason to pre-size the image for a specific ppi value.
I encourage you to experiment and report your results with your particular combination of gear.
Your comments are welcome!
-Noel

Noel Carboni wrote:
Jeff Schewe wrote:
I would never suggest people actually downsample though...why waste the pixels?
Exactly. There was a statement in another recent thread that downsampling to be an even fraction of the print dpi was important to do.
It might have been a misapplied extension of the advice to upsample. It's not been all that long that we've had big enough high resolution data that even makes downsampling a possibility.
-Noel
I believe I was the one to make that statement, which was based on recommendations by an Epson Print expert at a seminar demoing printers. He showed to prints from the same file, one set at an even multiple of 720 and the other some random number. It was subtle but visible the difference. That was probably 5 years ago.
In the meantime, I have made extensive tests of prints on my Epson 3800 trying many combinations of single pass, hi speed, Super fine print (2880x1440) and down to the basic level.
Everything evened out at 720 dpi. At 360, which is where I output from ACR, I can make an 8x12 print with no resampling whatsoever. Upping that to 720 and pushing the printer hard (2880x1440, single pass on Canson Platine), I see a discernable difference in the smooth tonalities.
As I understood you from past conversations, you employ the maximum output size from ACR which in my case, would double the file size by upsampling, and if necessary, downsample from that. I am not comfortable doing that as a default operation, but perhaps Jeff S might step in here and clarify. After all, ACR does offer that option! But my file size now goes from ~70MP to 143 MP, cutting my storage capability by 1/2. It's not a trivial matter when two of us here can run 600 to 800 images in 1/2 day!

Color management settings for the best print output

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Thanks Noel.
Yes have shared in PSE forum as well. But I usually drop such posts on PS General forum so community moderators as well as our power users who mostly use both PS or PSE or are aware about can communicate to their students, audiences etc.
The idea is to reach out the message to as many as folks via relevant forums. Most of my otehr posts have found mentioned only on PSE forum.
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Am 04.08.2014 um 22:10 schrieb VermontTech:
> but the inability to set a default printer within the computer policy is
> a crippling issue
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Mal ein
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JDLASK wrote:
I WOULD RATHER NOT PAY MORE THAN ABOUT $125.00 IF POSSIBLE.
Please don't use all Caps. It's considered shouting. And please don't keep doubling up on your posts.
Thanks
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