Best project & export settings for GoPro 1080p 30fps - YouTube

Hi all,
Just made a new video for YouTube and it's come out a little grainy, no where near as good as the original. I know YouTube compresses footage but looking at other users with the same equipment my video quality is sub par, I seem to be editing them incorrectly causing quality loss. Footage has lot's of motion:
★ HD YAMAHA RAPTOR 700 TRAIL RIDING, OFFROAD & SUSPENSION SETTINGS! QUAD BIKE ATV ★ed - YouTube
My other videos don't seem as bad, not perfect, but maybe as this one had less light and lot's of bumps/motion it's finally come to light that something is not right.
For example look at this video, same equipment etc, similar conditions, but quality is much higher:
[HD] Raptor 700 GOPRO HERO 3 BLACK HD 1080p 2014 Raptor 700 x2 Riding in NYC - YouTube
Quite a big difference right?
I didn't realise there were project settings lol, I checked and it's set at 25FPS but my footage is 30FPS, would this cause issues? Export wise I did
I need help with project settings and export settings, can someone tell me what information you need from me to ascertain this?
Many thanks,
Toby

Toby
If you have source media = GoPro 1080p30, then your project preset should be
NTSC
DSLR
1080p
DSLR [email protected] or DSLR 1080p30 if the camera specification says 30 instead of 29.97 frames per second.
Either you set it manually or you make sure that the project is setting it automatically correctly.
ATR Premiere Elements Troubleshooting: PE11: Accuracy of Automatic Project Preset (New Project Dialog) Setting
When you go to export that to YouTube from within the Premiere Elements YouTube feature, you use the
preset = High Definition Video for Youtube - 1920 x 1080.
If you exceed the file size/duration limit of the YouTube feature within Premiere Elements, then you export the
Timeline to a file saved to the computer hard drive. Next you upload that file to YouTube at the YouTube web site.
YouTube extended time accounts do not work in the YouTube feature within the program. The suggested file for
this route would be
Publish+Share
Computer
AVCHD
with Presets = MP4 - H.264 1920 x 1080p30.
Please review and consider. If any questions or need clarification, please do not hesitate to ask.
Thank you.
ATR

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t_hall10 wrote:
The information provided was helpful, but did not completely answer my question...
Are there specific settings with-in Aperture I can set for exporting so that clients have the ability to print as wanted and post on the web as wanted whithout losing any major amount of photo quality?
No, not for one size fits all.
I do appreciate this may be a frustrating answer, but non-the-less, that's how it is.
t_hall10 wrote:
Should I be gving 2 folders of pictures, one for web use and one for printing use? If I were to do that, what should the exporting setting be set for both folders?
Maybe, it's your choice.
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The only real quality setting is for JPG compression. 12 is virtually no (lossless) compression but gives huge file sizes which may breach a websites limits.
A 16MP images on quality 12 will be about 22MB. 11 brings it down to 8MB and 10 down to 7MB. You'd be very hard pressed to see the difference between a 12 and a 10. But if you want to feel you are giving the best quality without the extreme file size, go for 11.
The the vast majority of web sites, like facebook, will either resize uploaded images and/or re-compress them. They may also crop them to a different aspect ratio to fit their browser software.
Many report the best size for upload to facebook, for small images is 960 pixels on the long side. For large images it's 2048. For different websites it may be different. It is discussed on many photography sites and blogs. You will find some promoting the 960 / 2048, and others with their own preferences. Here's a good one which also shows you many ways FB will mess with the images:
http://havecamerawilltravel.com/photographer/images-photos-facebook-sizes-dimens ions-types
The safest colour space is sRGB (Mac profile: sRGB IEC61966-2.1) as it will more often be right than wrong. You should preview your images on screen with this profile to get a feel for how it will look and avoid unexpected colour shifts in your files. Ideally your screen should be calibrated so you know what you are giving them is accurate.
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Many photographers don't offer full size images to their clients. They will usually give them smaller versions for their own use, which may include small size printing.
They will either do the main printing themself on their own calibrated printer, or work with a print shop, and may have installed calibrated profiles on their system for the shops printing equipment so they can use onscreen proofing to gauge what the pictures will look like when printed on that equipment.
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You are actually moving into the realm of defining your product. You could, for example, ask the client which site they intend to publish the photos on, research that site and produce files optimized specifically for that site.
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Next, for each size and usage, you now need to sharpen these images.
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http://forums.adobe.com/thread/713070
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It Stands for "Coder Decoder."
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This might be a bad analogy but I'll give it a try.
A coffe cup (container) can hold pretty much any liquid you drink, where a red solo cup (container) won't hold scolding water. So, the coffe cup would be your container of choice most likely because it has the most options for liquids (codecs). But, you might want a red solo cup for just a single crappy beer at a party (a moderate quality streaming video on the web). In that case, you don't need all the optoins of another container.
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http://goo.gl/8GZq4i

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