Best quality dvd from YouTube

How can I keep the best possible quality when burning a DVD form a YouTube video?

ask the person who posted the video to send it to you under the original format. (remember: downloading and using videos from youtube without having the video owner's approval is illegal)

Similar Messages

Making the best quality DVD from FCP

Can anyone suggest how to make the highest quality DVD from an HDV FCP project?

It's a fun website that I've seen people use recently : http://lmgtfy.com/
It basically generates a url that you can post onto forums etc, and when you click on it, it takes you to the 'mock' google page, followed by the results. It's a polite but fun way of saying "Don't be so lazy, and do a search!". No offense intended to the OP.
The Bruce image is one i had uploaded to Tinypic.com ages ago.
Glad you like it!

How can I Burn the Best Quality DVD from a project in i-movie 06' HD?

Hello I shot a sort film with a Cannon HV-30 HD camera, edited it in i-movie 06 HD, it looks amazing! However I am a bit confused on what setting to burn it at in I-DVD...Best Quality or Best Performance? I herd it will not burn in HD so what is the next best? The short film is about 14 minutes long. Any advice would be appreciated!
Thanks
Steven

"Best quality" of course. ;-)
"Best performance" is just a faster burning/encoding process. The playback quality is a little lower than "Best quality". Since you burn once and play many times, go for "Best quality".

Best settings for a high quality dvd from FCP reference file?

Can anyone give me a list of steps to make the best possible quality DVD from an FCP reference file? The film is 10 minutes long, NTSC. Or can someone direct me to some threads that address this issue? Thanks so much.

This may be of assistance:
http://www.kenstone.net/fcphomepage/bitbudget.html

Help with getting high quality DVDs from AVCHD footage

Hello,
I know enough about video editing with PE7 to be dangerous, and was hoping someone could help me out.
My question is regarding getting the highest quality standard DVD from AVCHD footage. I have a Sony HDR-SR12 camcorder recording in AVCHD. I am editing footage natively in AVCHD with PE7 on a quad core system. No problem with that. However, when I export to standard DVD the quality of the video goes down drastically. (Yes, I know burning to Blu-ray would give me higher quality, but I am giving this DVD to a friend who doesn't have Blu-ray).
So far I have tried starting my project in both HD 1080i 30 5.1 channel:
General
Editing mode: HDV 1080i
Timebase: 29.97 fps
Video Settings
Frame size: 1440h 1080v (1.333)
Frame rate: 29.97 frames/second
Pixel Aspect Ratio: HD Anamorphic 1080 (1.333)
and Full HD 1080i 30 5.1 channel:
General
Editing mode: HD 1080i
Timebase: 29.97 fps
Video Settings
Frame size: 1920h 1080v (1.000)
Frame rate: 29.97 frames/second
Pixel Aspect Ratio: Square Pixels (1.0)
But I see no discernable difference in the quality of my output onto DVD.
This is where my knowledge is lacking...how can I get the best quality output from my AVCHD onto a standard DVD? Is there some format I can convert to first, and then burn to DVD? Also, I am willing to break the footage into a couple of DVDs to improve the quality, but I don't know how or what to do for that.
My footage looks REALLY great when viewing from the HDR-SR12 direct to HD TV with HDMI cable, but not very good on the DVD. My footage is of a ballet recital, and I lose definition in the faces, costumes, etc on the DVD output.
Any help is appreciated! Thanks!
Gina

Hey Gina,
This may be a year late, but as I have been pulling my hair out trying to solve this problem for the last 48 hours I finally did find somewhat of a work around, but it requires Adobe PP CS4.2.
There is a plug-in here:
http://www.mainconcept.com/site/prosumer-products-4/mpeg-pro-hd-7850/features-7861.html
Which will actually output your edit as an AVCHD file. You can then burn this straight to an AVCHD using Nero 9 and keep the highquality level of your clips and not need Blu-Ray. The DVD player will need to be AVCHD capable, but I just bought one of those for $40 as compared to the $200+ of most Blu-Ray players.
Hope that helps.
Regards,
DSW

Low-quality DVD from SD files

I'm new to Premiere Pro CS5, and I'm having difficulty creating a good-quality DVD from my SD footage. It may be because my video is too long (2 hr. 14 min.), but I thought maybe I was doing something wrong.
I've done similar things (DVDs from plays I've recorded, with the same camera) using different software, and the final quality was better. However, for various reasons, the old software isn't working well any more and I'm making the switch to PP.
I've included some technical details below. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jon
Original footage:
Shot on Panasonic DVX 100B, SD: 720x480 (0.9091), 23.976 fps (24p)
Captured as .avi files using Premiere Pro
Edited in Premiere Pro CS5 64bit (ver.5.0.3)
Total video length: 2h:14m
Sample of .avi footage, original size:
400% magnification:
Dynamic linked to Encore (ver.5.0.0.5)
Added 2 menu screens with a small jpg on each
1st try: Transcoded using Automatic settings
(DVD Transcode in Properties dialog). Quality was awful -- faces very blotchy.
2nd try: Changed DVD Transcode to:
NTSC DV 23.976 Hi-Qual 7Mb VBR 2 pass
Quality didn't improve.
3rd try: Specified a 2-sided DVD to give it more room. (I don't have a 2-sided DVD, but I thought I could burn it onto 2 DVDs). The transcoded file size increased (6.89GB m2v file), but the quality didn't really improve.
Sample of m2v footage, original size:
400% magnification:
It's a 3-act play, and my next thought was to try to do Act 1 as one file, on one DVD, and Acts 2 & 3 (shorter) as a separate project on a 2nd DVD. Blu-Ray isn't an option, unfortunately.
Thanks!

Jeff,
As I just posted, it turns out that Dan's instructions about HC Encoder were the ones that basically got me what I needed. However, I really appreciate your suggestions, and I wanted to post my test results and procedure, in case it's helpful to anyone (or if I need it again).
Regarding your test scenarios, I started on two different sequences: one set up as DV 24P, and the other as DV NTSC. My detailed notes are below -- too much to read, unless you're interested how it all turned out.
Thanks again,
Jon
Test 1: Playing in the Premiere Program Window
A. On DV 24P sequence:
   1. Leave Interpret Footage parameters at current settings. Quality OK
   2. Change just the "Remove 24p DV Pulldown" setting. Quality Terrible
   3. Change just the Field Order setting to Progressive. OK
   4. Change both the Remove and LFF settings. OK, but w/ interlace combing
B. On DV NTSC sequence:
   1. Leave Interpret Footage parameters at current settings. Quite bad
   2. Change just the "Remove 24p DV Pulldown" setting. Worse
   3. Change just the Field Order setting to Progressive. Quite bad
   4. Change both the Remove and LFF settings. Lots of combing
So, after this round, DV 24P sequence was best, either w/ default settings, or making field order progressive.
Test 2: AVI export
Created a split-screen test clip, on DV 24 P sequence, with no change on left, and change of setting from LFF to progressive on right (A1 & A3 above, which were the best after the first round).
Exported to avi files, using:
1. NTSC DV 24P preset, DV (24P Advanced) codec
2. Lagarith codec, progressive
3. Lagarith, LFF
Played avi file on Media Player Classic and Windows Media Player.
Not a lot of discernible difference among the three files.
Test 3: HC Encoder
Created *.avs fils for each of 3 test files (using Dan's directions), plus original avi (captured directly from the camera)
(Note: HC Encoder doesn't like file names with spaces or underscores,apparently.)
1. NTSC: couldn't open
2. Input for encoding OK
3. Input for encoding OK
4. Original avi couldn't be decompressed
So, the lagarith-encoded files work fine with HC Encoder, but I still have interlace combing artifacts - throughout Act 2, and at the curtain call for Sat (when the background is lighter -- is that significant?), and throughout (but not completely) Acts 2 & 3 for Fri (all on one tape). Act 1 either night doesn't appear to have a problem.
Looking at the original captured footage (in MPC and Win Media Player), there is no interlacing problem, so it appears to be an issue with PP.
Previewing the files in PP (before putting them in a sequence), there is no interlacing problem.
When creating a new sequence, I tried: New Sequence, General, Playback Settings button, choose "Repeat Frame (ABBCD)" rather than "Interlaced Frame" (the default).
This sort of fixed the problem -- no more combing, EXCEPT at the curtain call -- the very end of tape 3. The other footage that was combing is now a little softer -- kind of annoying, but I applied an Unsharp Mask filter (default settings), and it helped. (I also tried Auto Color, to see if it would quickly help the color. Not a good move: the color changes sometimes frame by frame, and all black becomes gray static. Obviously, I need to understand what that does next time I try to use it.)
I decided to live with the combing at the end. (It was "good enough" at that point -- not a commercial project.) At least I've learned a lot.
I put the .h2v and .aac files into Encore, created some menus and built it to a folder, to test the files one more time before committing them to plastic. It all looked good. Then, for one more hurdle, Encore didn't like my DVD burner ("unknown error"!) It worked last week! However, I used a different burner, since I had the DVD files already, and it worked fine. Phew!
I'd love to know what the interlace combing at the end was about. My only guess it that it may be because I was using a sort-of-cheapo DV tape, recording over it for the third time. Maybe the tape was a bit stretched or something and the frames got out of synch at the very end. (?) If anyone has ideas, I'd be interested.

Please suggest a method and some settings to get the best quality DVD

I’m trying to find the correct settings to use to make the best quality DVD of an iMovie project. It includes still photos (a couple use the Ken Burns effect), movie clips, titles, maps, transitions, and audio. The project is 33 minutes long. So far, I have burned it by using 3 different methods and the results vary, but not one of the three is optimal for everything. Is it possible to make a DVD that has the best quality of everything or do you have to sacrifice one thing to get the best of another? Here’s the workflow for each method.
#1 iMovie09 ->share to media (960x540) ->burned with iDVD (best). Everything is acceptable except for the movie clips which have low quality with smeared details.
#2 iMovie09 ->export to Quicktime (Apple intermediate codec, current frame rate, data rate-auto, compressor native, 1440x1080) ->burned with
Toast 9. Compared to the first method, the titles are pixelated, the animated map arrows show jaggies, one Ken Burns zoom shimmers a lot, the quality of the photos is slightly less, but the movie clips are a lot better and are acceptable.
#3 Quicktime .mov file from #2 ->MPEGStreamClip (deinterlace, all other settings auto or default ->burned with Toast 9. Movie clips are the best of the 3 methods, photo quality is better than #2, but not as good as #1. Titles and other effects are just a little better than #2, but not as good as #1.
Can anyone suggest some settings using any combination of the programs mentioned above to produce a DVD that has the best photo, effects quality, and movie clip quality all on one DVD?
Rick

from a prior post, I find this worked quite well, but i think you already thought it was not that good for you, i did not get the 'smeared details" or so I thought:
"In iMovie, do not "Share to iDVD", it makes a pretty bad product. Instead,
"Share to Media Browser" and choose the "HD" version if you can, this will take your iMovie project and export it (Can take an hour or 2) into a 720p movie (that looks close to your original iMovie project). That 720p .mov file will be hidden in the iMovie's Project's file; access it if you want by right clicking on the project, show contents, movies (but you dont need to look at it as it is directly accessible through iDVD). SO after the movie has exported, you then open iDVD and click on the MEdia button in the lower R corner, then Choose MOvies, then choose iMovie and you should be able to see that 720p movie that iMovie made. Drag that movie version into iDVD's window (after setting up your theme, background music etc) and then burn. It should look pretty good. Remember, all DVDs are compressed to standard definition (SD) so you will lose definition from the 720p to the 480 resolution of a DVD, but hopefully it will be fine.

Settings for best quality DVD

Hi,
I'm hoping someone can help me to get the best quality DVD for home movies.
I have been editing and putting the movies to DVD for a number of years and the quality has been excellent. but over the last year something has changed and the quality of the final DVD is quite poor (pixalated)
I have tested different settings in both imovie HD and idvd but it hasn't made any difference so far.
I am using the following:
Sony HDR-HC9 handycam (Recording in HDV1080i)
imovie HD 6.0.3
iDVD 7.1
Thanks for any insight you can give me!

Hi
As written - dust on lens - first thought
If You made a lot of DVDs in a row (>3 at a time) then there is a risk to burn out/harm the laser.
my list on DVD Quality - read or keep. It's long !
*DVD quality*
1. iDVD 08 & 09 has three levels of qualities.
iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality *(movies + menus up to 120 min.)* - BEST
• Best Performances *(movies + menus less than 60 min.)* - High quality on final DVD
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6) *(movies + menus up to 120 min.)* - slightly lower quality than above
2.Video from
• FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not selfcontaining, no conversion)
• iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
when the movie includes photos. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
• iMovie’08 not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly eg x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application.
4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc).
5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW)
7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
8. Don’t burn more than three DVD at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while befor next batch.
iDVD quality also depends on.
• DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
deliver anything better that this.
HD-DVD was a shortlived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-layer.
*Blu-Ray / BD* can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
_ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl BD-component
_ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
_ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to plyback
The BD-encoded DVDs can be playbacked IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
• HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx 25Gb.
less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
• How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
• Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
• Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera recorde in = 100% to iDVD
• What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
• What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
(If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JESDeinterlacer3.2.2 do the conversion)
(Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
(US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
(EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
UNLESS. They are plabacked by a Mac - then You need not to care
• What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
• How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
Best / High Performances (most often my choise before Pro Quality)
1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
(x4 by some and may be even better)
2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
Region codes.
iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
1 = US
2 = EU
*unclemano wrote*
What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
• Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
• No other programs running in BackGround eg EnergySaver
• Don’t let HD spinn down or be turned off (in EnergySave)
• Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
• Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
• Set screensaver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
Yours Bengt W

Burn DVD from Youtube

How can I burn a DVD from Youtube?

You can watch Youtube videos on your TV many ways. Many newer Smart TV's have a Youtube channel, if yours does not have that ability you can also get an AppleTV ($75 refurbished from Apple's online store) and view Youtube and much much more including your own video library, photo library, etc and other channels. If that is of any interest to you, click http://store.apple.com/us/product/FD199LL/A/refurbished-apple-tv for information.

Can I export a high quality DVD from iMovie?

Please help. I am making a short experimental film which will show in a gallery in a few weeks. I need the final product to be as high quality as possible. It will be projected on a big screen before an audience. Can I make a high quality DVD from iMovie? I have iMovie 08 and would like to upgrade it to iMovie 11 to get the most features. But I don't want to do a lot of work then find out I can't exhibit the final project properly. I have been reading about iMovie for days on this forum, but I can't get a handle on exactly what is the difference between all the versions. What do you suggest?

I should mention that my movie is made up entirely of still photos with lots of transitions, jump cuts, etc. I don't know if that makes a difference.

How to export the best quality file from FCE?

Hi people. I was wondering which is the option that I have to choose to get the best quality on an exported file from FCE4. The best quality I get is from the "Export - Quicktime movie..." option, but there is a huge compression as I see. The final product isn't as good as it should. Obviously, it won't be the same as the original material, but I was wondering if there was another way of getting a movie with much more quality, like when you use "Compressor" from the Final Cut Studio. Thanks in advance.

I imported the material through firewire (it was recorded on a miniDV tape). I respected the format of the source and the files I got are top notch. The final movie looks great on the computer, the differences come when burning it to a DVD. I'm using IDVD, and the .mov file exported through the option I mentioned.
I want to burn that .mov file to a DVD, which means there will be another compression to MPEG2 once I burn it through the DVD authoring app, but the product has some kind of "shaking" in the dark areas. It's not so bad, but I would like to get the best quality, like the ones I've got from Compressor. Is it possible using the Export - Quicktime movie option?

Best quality dvd-premiere pro or encore

hi all-some advise needed.
I want to make the best quality professional wedding dvd for a client nd I have a few options and i just want to get feedback on which is the best method.
pc=win xp, prem pro 2 and encore 1.5, PAL, 4x3 plenty of hard disk space, 2gb RAM
wedding is 2 hour long but am I splitting in 2 to get the best quality
I think have 3 options-which is the best?
Option 1 build the DVD in premiere pro via DVD layout (nice wedding menus as well)
Option 2 export the encoded wedding via the encoder (media concept i think) and then just import and build the menus and dvd in encore
Option 3 export an uncompressed avi file via file-movie-export into encore and let encore do the encoding and build the dvd.
What do you guys think? Am i missing any other better options?
I would really aprreciate any advise or criticism,
thanks
Paul

labrisher wrote:
IIf in laying out the DVD in Encore you find that you'd like to change something in the Premiere file after you've imported it into Encore, you simply make the change and re-export the movie to the same name/directory etc. i.e. overwriting the previous file.
I cannot stress how strongly I disagree with this method. You should never, ever overwrite an asset that is used in Encore from outside of Encore. That is asking for big trouble, and if you don't get bitten by it right away, you will get bitten by it eventually. Instead, you should add a version number to the modified asset, and then use the Replace Asset command. Another good method if you're using an all-Adobe workflow is to use Edit Original, which will open up the program used to create the asset. When you finish the modifications, saving will update the asset in Encore, and make sure that all links to all supporting files are maintained.
The worst thing that can happen using labrisher's workflow is that your Encore project will crash with the dreaded PGC error, or some other fatal error, and you will never be able to recover and build a finished disc, disc image or set of DVD folders. You will then have to rebuild the project from scratch.
-Jeff

How do I produce the highest quality DVD from MOV exported from iMovie

What is the best method in iDVD11 for burning to DVD, an imported HD 720p or HD 1080p MOV file exported from iMovie11?
I have successfully exported a 5.5GB (66min) HD 720p MOV file from iMovie. I then used iDVD to import this MOV file and burn it to DVD. When I played the DVD the quality was nowhere near that of the imported HD 720p MOV file as played on QuickTime. The DVD also shows captions at the edge of the 16:9 TV screen instead of further inside as per the QuickTime screening of the HD 720p MOV file.
How can I improve quality and maintain borders in iDVD for the DVD output?

Hi
How can I improve quality and maintain borders in iDVD for the DVD output?
Quality.
• Use iMovie up to HD6 or FinalCut - as iMovie'08 or 09 or 11 - just delivers every second line to iDVD = less resolution
• There are no HD-DVD in real life - DVD is as standard SD-Video
• If You must use iMovie'11 then do not use "Share to iDVD" BUT "Share to Media Browser" and as Large (Not HD or other resolution - as result will suffers)
Border
• May be turning on TV-Safe area in iDVD can help a bit. ?
• If this is IMPORTANT - Then You have to re-do Your movie in FinalCut and here turn on TV-Safe area and shrink the movie area to within this. Now it will show all on an old CRT-TV - but with a black frame due to that no two CRT-TVs show exactly the same area and then TV-Safe must be less than this.
My - Un-specific notes on DVD-Quality. If You are interested.
DVD quality
1. iDVD 08, 09 & 11 has three levels of qualities. (vers 7.0.1, 7,0.4 & 7.1.1)
iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality (movies + menus up to 120 min.) - BEST
• Best Performances (movies + menus less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6) (movies + menus up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
About double on DL DVDs.
2.Video from
• FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not self-containing, no QT-conversion)
• iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
when the movie includes photos. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
• iMovie’08 not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly eg x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application.
4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc).
5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW)
7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
8. Don’t burn more than three DVD at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while before next batch.
iDVD quality also depends on.
• DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
deliver anything better that this.
HD-DVD was a short-lived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-layer.
Blu-Ray / BD can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
_ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl BD-component
_ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
_ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to playback
The BD-encoded DVDs can be playbacked IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
• HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx 25Gb.
less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
• How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
• Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
• Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera record in = 100% to iDVD
• What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
• What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
(If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JES_Deinterlacer_3.2.2 do the conversion)
(Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
(US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
(EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
UNLESS. They are playbacked by a Mac - then You need not to care
• What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
• How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
Best / High Performances (most often my choice before Pro Quality)
1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
(x4 by some and may be even better)
2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
Region codes.
iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
1 = US
2 = EU
unclemano wrote
What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
• Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
• No other programs running in BackGround eg EnergySaver
• Don’t let HD spinn down or be turned off (in EnergySave)
• Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
• Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
• Set screensaver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
Yours Bengt W

How to best quality DVD?

I have a new movie that runs an hour and a half and is presently 17.7 gigs. I want to put it on DVD. iMovie compress it down to 2.8 gigs before burning a DVD but I want best quality possible which I believe is 4.2 gigs for a 4.7 gig DVD (one side). I've never done this before. Can anyone tell me the basic steps to produce the best quality possible DVD?

Hi
Klaus1 is 100% right
My twist to this is as follows
DVD quality
1. iDVD 08, 09 & 11 has three levels of qualities. (version 7.0.1, 7,0.4 & 7.1.1) and iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - BEST (but not always for short movies e.g. up to 45 minutes in total)
• Best Performances
(movies + menus less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD (Can be best for short movies)
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6)
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
Menu can take 15 minutes or even more - I use a very simple one with no audio or animation like ”Brushed Metal” in old Themes.
About double on DL DVDs.
2. Video from
• FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not self-containing, no conversion)
• iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
when the movie includes photos and the Ken Burns effect NOT is used. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
• iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly e.g. x4 or x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application when burning from a DiskImage.
4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc). For SD-Video - if HD-material is used I guess that 4 to 5 times more would do.
5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW) - DVD-R play’s on more and older DVD-Players
7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
(I use JES_Deinterlacer to keep frame per sec. same from editing to the Video-DVD result.)
8. Don’t burn more than three DVDs at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while before next batch.
iDVD quality also depends on.
• DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
deliver anything better that this.
HD-DVD was a short-lived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-Player.
Blu-Ray / BD can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
_ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl. BD-component
_ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
_ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to playback
The BD-encoded DVDs can be play-backed IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
• HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx. 25Gb.
less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
• How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
• Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
• Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera record in = 100% to iDVD
• What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
• What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
(If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JES_Deinterlacer_3.2.2 do the conversion)
(Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
(US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
(EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
UNLESS. They are play-backed by a Mac - then You need not to care
• What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
• How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
Best / High Performances (most often my choice before Pro Quality)
1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
(x4 by some and may be even better)
2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
Region codes.
iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
1 = US
2 = EU
unclemano wrote
What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
to get this to work I
• Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
• Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
• Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
• No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
• and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
• and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start a brand new iDVD project
• Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
• Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
Try to break the process up into two stages
• Save as a DiskImage (calculating part)
• Burn from this .img file (burning stage)
To isolate where the problem starts.
Another thing is - Playing it onto a Blu-Ray Player. My PlayStation3 can play BD-disks but not all of my home made DVDs so to get this to work I
• Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
• Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
• Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
• No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
• and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
• and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start a brand new iDVD project
• Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
• Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
• Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
• No other programs running in BackGround e.g. Energy-Saver
• Don’t let HD spin down or be turned off (in Energy-Save)
• Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
• Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
• Set screen-saver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
• No File Vault on - Important
• NO - TimeMachine - during iMovie/iDVD work either ! IMPORTANT
• Lot's of icons on DeaskTop/Finder also slows down the Mac noticeably
• Start a new User-Account and log into this and iMovie get's faster too - if a project is in a hurry
• And let Mac run on Mains - not just on battery
Yours Bengt W

Best quality import from VHS

I'm importing some VHS tapes into iMovie09 using an ADVC-55 and then MPEGstreamclip to break the project into small clips. However, I'm new to MPEGstreamclip and want to use the best quality settings for the data transfer. Rather than spending many hours trying different strategies, can anyone recommend what settings will, in general, give the best quality?
The tapes, and output DVD, are PAL.
Thanks for suggestions and tips.

As a new user, what is the best channel for obtaining iMovie 06, given that it's the best method for maintaining quality?
I understand your frustration. Actually, once you get the work flow down, it is pretty easy. I think it's fairly well established that iMovie 06 will give you better quality with DV video to make a DVD.
Obviously, it seems a little complicated to have 2 versions of iMovie. I can't think of any other cases where I have 2 versions of the same program. However, in the case of iMovie, iMovie 06 and iMovie 09 are vastly different.
I use both of these iMovies on a regular basis. But on the project that you are describing, I would definitely use iMovie 06 for better quality. Someday, when you're dealing with high definition and are sharing these videos on the internet, you may find iMovie 09 to your liking.
I found iMovie 06 to be very intuitive and easy to learn. My video editing goes back to the film days, so I find iMovie 06 quite natural to me.
If you buy the iLife 06 disk, only install iMovie 06 from it. iMovie 06 will not delete anything and it works fine with iDVD 09.
Basically, connect your camera and import into iMovie 06, then share to iDVD 09. Do a 5 or 10 minute project first to establish your work flow. Do this a few times and you can zip along thru the remaining work.
You can get iMovie 06 in a number of ways. You cannot download it FROM APPLE any longer (it was free for a time). You can also find iMovie 06 on the iLife 06 install disc. You can buy iLife 06 on Amazon or eBay.
But be prepared to pay about double the cost of iLife 09 (but well worth every penny). Seller's are becoming aware of its value.

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