Best quality dvd

Hi
i have a panasonic hdc-sd5 camera and am very happy with the quality it shoots at, and also how easy it is to use with 08. However i want to know how can i get the best results(ie HD) onto a dvd to share my movies?
Thanks
jc

Hi
HD - not as far as I get it. DVD Studio pro can do this - but the price tag is hefty.
Best quality - general:
• High quality DVD brand: I use Verbatim
• type: I use only DVD-R
• encoding: In iDVD one can select - Pro Quality - I do !
• BURN SPEED: Important ! - in iDVD You can select low speed - do that - I use x1
• Free space on internal (start-up) hard disk: > 25Gb after DVD menu is set and done - ready to burn
Yours Bengt W

Similar Messages

  • Please suggest a method and some settings to get the best quality DVD

    I’m trying to find the correct settings to use to make the best quality DVD of an iMovie project. It includes still photos (a couple use the Ken Burns effect), movie clips, titles, maps, transitions, and audio. The project is 33 minutes long. So far, I have burned it by using 3 different methods and the results vary, but not one of the three is optimal for everything. Is it possible to make a DVD that has the best quality of everything or do you have to sacrifice one thing to get the best of another? Here’s the workflow for each method.
    #1 iMovie09 ->share to media (960x540) ->burned with iDVD (best). Everything is acceptable except for the movie clips which have low quality with smeared details.
    #2 iMovie09 ->export to Quicktime (Apple intermediate codec, current frame rate, data rate-auto, compressor native, 1440x1080) ->burned with
    Toast 9. Compared to the first method, the titles are pixelated, the animated map arrows show jaggies, one Ken Burns zoom shimmers a lot, the quality of the photos is slightly less, but the movie clips are a lot better and are acceptable.
    #3 Quicktime .mov file from #2 ->MPEGStreamClip (deinterlace, all other settings auto or default ->burned with Toast 9. Movie clips are the best of the 3 methods, photo quality is better than #2, but not as good as #1. Titles and other effects are just a little better than #2, but not as good as #1.
    Can anyone suggest some settings using any combination of the programs mentioned above to produce a DVD that has the best photo, effects quality, and movie clip quality all on one DVD?
    Rick

    from a prior post, I find this worked quite well, but i think you already thought it was not that good for you, i did not get the 'smeared details" or so I thought:
    "In iMovie, do not "Share to iDVD", it makes a pretty bad product. Instead,
    "Share to Media Browser" and choose the "HD" version if you can, this will take your iMovie project and export it (Can take an hour or 2) into a 720p movie (that looks close to your original iMovie project). That 720p .mov file will be hidden in the iMovie's Project's file; access it if you want by right clicking on the project, show contents, movies (but you dont need to look at it as it is directly accessible through iDVD). SO after the movie has exported, you then open iDVD and click on the MEdia button in the lower R corner, then Choose MOvies, then choose iMovie and you should be able to see that 720p movie that iMovie made. Drag that movie version into iDVD's window (after setting up your theme, background music etc) and then burn. It should look pretty good. Remember, all DVDs are compressed to standard definition (SD) so you will lose definition from the 720p to the 480 resolution of a DVD, but hopefully it will be fine.

  • Settings for best quality DVD

    Hi,
    I'm hoping someone can help me to get the best quality DVD for home movies.
    I have been editing and putting the movies to DVD for a number of years and the quality has been excellent. but over the last year something has changed and the quality of the final DVD is quite poor (pixalated)
    I have tested different settings in both imovie HD and idvd but it hasn't made any difference so far.
    I am using the following:
    Sony HDR-HC9 handycam (Recording in HDV1080i)
    imovie HD 6.0.3
    iDVD 7.1
    Thanks for any insight you can give me!

    Hi
    As written - dust on lens - first thought
    If You made a lot of DVDs in a row (>3 at a time) then there is a risk to burn out/harm the laser.
    my list on DVD Quality - read or keep. It's long !
    *DVD quality*
    1. iDVD 08 & 09 has three levels of qualities.
    iDVD 6 has the two last ones
    • Professional Quality *(movies + menus up to 120 min.)* - BEST
    • Best Performances *(movies + menus less than 60 min.)* - High quality on final DVD
    • High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6) *(movies + menus up to 120 min.)* - slightly lower quality than above
    2.Video from
    • FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not selfcontaining, no conversion)
    • iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
    when the movie includes photos. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
    • iMovie’08 not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
    3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly eg x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
    This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application.
    4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
    use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc).
    5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
    6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW)
    7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
    8. Don’t burn more than three DVD at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while befor next batch.
    iDVD quality also depends on.
    • DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
    deliver anything better that this.
    HD-DVD was a shortlived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
    These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-layer.
    *Blu-Ray / BD* can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
    _ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl BD-component
    _ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
    _ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to plyback
    The BD-encoded DVDs can be playbacked IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
    Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
    • HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx 25Gb.
    less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
    • How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
    • Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
    • Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
    iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera recorde in = 100% to iDVD
    • What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
    other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
    Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
    strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
    Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
    • What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
    (If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JESDeinterlacer3.2.2 do the conversion)
    (Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
    (US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
    (EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
    UNLESS. They are plabacked by a Mac - then You need not to care
    • What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
    • How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
    Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
    Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
    Best / High Performances (most often my choise before Pro Quality)
    1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
    (x4 by some and may be even better)
    2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
    Region codes.
    iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
    DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
    1 = US
    2 = EU
    *unclemano wrote*
    What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
    I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
    I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
    For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
    TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
    • Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
    • No other programs running in BackGround eg EnergySaver
    • Don’t let HD spinn down or be turned off (in EnergySave)
    • Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
    • Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
    • Set screensaver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
    pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
    Yours Bengt W

  • Best quality dvd-premiere pro or encore

    hi all-some advise needed.
    I want to make the best quality professional wedding dvd for a client nd I have a few options and i just want to get feedback on which is the best method.
    pc=win xp, prem pro 2 and encore 1.5, PAL, 4x3 plenty of hard disk space, 2gb RAM
    wedding is 2 hour long but am I splitting in 2 to get the best quality
    I think have 3 options-which is the best?
    Option 1 build the DVD in premiere pro via DVD layout (nice wedding menus as well)
    Option 2 export the encoded wedding via the encoder (media concept i think) and then just import and build the menus and dvd in encore
    Option 3 export an uncompressed avi file via file-movie-export into encore and let encore do the encoding and build the dvd.
    What do you guys think? Am i missing any other better options?
    I would really aprreciate any advise or criticism,
    thanks
    Paul

    labrisher wrote:
    IIf in laying out the DVD in Encore you find that you'd like to change something in the Premiere file after you've imported it into Encore, you simply make the change and re-export the movie to the same name/directory etc. i.e. overwriting the previous file.
    I cannot stress how strongly I disagree with this method.  You should never, ever overwrite an asset that is used in Encore from outside of Encore.  That is asking for big trouble, and if you don't get bitten by it right away, you will get bitten by it eventually.  Instead, you should add a version number to the modified asset, and then use the Replace Asset command.  Another good method if you're using an all-Adobe workflow is to use Edit Original, which will open up the program used to create the asset.  When you finish the modifications, saving will update the asset in Encore, and make sure that all links to all supporting files are maintained.
    The worst thing that can happen using labrisher's workflow is that your Encore project will crash with the dreaded PGC error, or some other fatal error, and you will never be able to recover and build a finished disc, disc image or set of DVD folders.  You will then have to rebuild the project from scratch.
    -Jeff

  • How to convert HD content to Best-Quality DVD ?

    Hi there! I'm thepopol777 and I'm using Premiere Pro for 5 years now. However, this is the first time I have to make a video DVD so I would like some advices.
    I've read all threads about HD to DVD, but I couldn't find the answers I'm searching for.
    Let's go!
    I filmed 40 min movie with my HD sony camcorder. 1920 x 1080. Now, I have to put this on DVD playable on a classic DVD Player. I don't want to put 1080p on DVD, just make a normal SD DVD but with the max quality possible. I know it will not be BluRay quality, regarding the bitrate etc...
    So this is what I've already done:
    1st Try
    1- I've created a Premiere Pro project with the folowing settings: AVCHD 1080p - Squared pixels - 25fps - 16/9 ( Should I create a Standard DV-PAL project a this point? )
    2- After finished the mounting, I've clicked on Adobe Dynamic Link -> Encore
    3- In Encore, I've created a Transcode Preset with the following settings: MPEG2-DVD - Quality: 5 - 25fps - Progressive - widescreen 16/9 - VBR 2 pass - Bitrate, Min: 6, Goal: 8, Max: 9 - Sound: Dolby digital
    4- File - Generate - Disk: DVD
    The result of this is, after 8 hours of transcoding, the DVD is done, but the quality is really low ( Or I'm too used to BluRay ). On the 4,7Go space of the DVD, only 2,6 Go was used. So I'm wondering if there is a way to boost the quality with the unused space ?
    2nd Try
    1- With the same Premiere Pro project, I didn't send to Encore this time. I've done Create Media and with Adobe Media Encoder ( which I prefer ), I've created a file with thoses settings:  MPEG2-DVD - Quality: 5 - 25fps - Progressive - widescreen 16/9 - VBR 2 pass - Bitrate, Min: 8, Goal: 8.5 , Max: 9 - Sound: Dolby digital - Multiplexing: DVD
    2- Back to the 1st try Encore project, but this time I've manually clicked on the sequence and " Localize Transcoded file "
    3- I'm like " Now I've already transcoded the file, the next step should be the burning... But no, after clicking on Generate - Disk - DVD, Encore is transcoding again my transcoded file.
    4- Maybe this is because the Transcode Preset is different of my transcoded file? OK Challenge me!!!! Creating a new Transcode Preset with the same values than in AME
    5- But nothing changes here, Encore absolutely wants to re-Transcode my transcoded file
    6- I Just give up here.
    Yeah I know, shame on me to give up.... But I really don't know if my tries were goods. So here I am, don't know if my first-try DVD is the best quality I can get already... Or If I had to re-create a Premiere Pro project with the final size instead of 1920x1080... I'm just lost, and a step-to-step guide will be appreciated.
    Thanks a lot!
    Thepopol777

    Alright, absolutely Perfect!
    Of course, it's not HD, but the quality I was expecting for is right here. Thanks for all your advices, it helped a lot!
    So the main trick was to NOT export to Encore with Direct Link. ( Thanks Ann )
    Just Export Media in Premiere ( that will open Adobe Media Encoder ), put the good settings ( bitrate etc... ), start transcode,   then open a new project in Encore and import the files ( video + audio ) and that's it! The option Don't Transcode will appear and at DVD generation it will just use the files without re-transcoding them.
    Bye Bye

  • How to best quality DVD?

    I have a new movie that runs an hour and a half and is presently 17.7 gigs.  I want to put it on DVD.  iMovie compress it down to 2.8 gigs before burning a DVD but I want best quality possible which I believe is 4.2 gigs for a 4.7 gig DVD (one side).  I've never done this before.  Can anyone tell me the basic steps to produce the best quality possible DVD?

    Hi
    Klaus1 is 100% right
    My twist to this is as follows
    DVD quality 
    1. iDVD 08, 09 & 11 has three levels of qualities. (version 7.0.1, 7,0.4 & 7.1.1) and iDVD 6 has the two last ones
    • Professional Quality
    (movies + menus up to 120 min.) - BEST (but not always for short movies e.g. up to 45 minutes in total)
    • Best Performances
    (movies + menus less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD (Can be best for short movies)
    • High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6)
    (movies + menus up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
    Menu can take 15 minutes or even more - I use a very simple one with no audio or animation like ”Brushed Metal” in old Themes.
    About double on DL DVDs.
    2. Video from
    • FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not self-containing, no conversion)
    • iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
    when the movie includes photos and the Ken Burns effect NOT is used. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
    • iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
    3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly e.g. x4 or x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09  this can also be set)
    This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application when burning from a DiskImage.
    4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
    use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc). For SD-Video - if HD-material is used I guess that 4 to 5 times more would do.
    5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
    6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW) - DVD-R play’s on more and older DVD-Players
    7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
    (I use JES_Deinterlacer to keep frame per sec. same from editing to the Video-DVD result.)
    8. Don’t burn more than three DVDs at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while before next batch.
    iDVD quality also depends on.
    • DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
    deliver anything better that this.
    HD-DVD was a short-lived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
    These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-Player.
    Blu-Ray / BD can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
    _ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl. BD-component
    _ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
    _ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to playback
    The BD-encoded DVDs can be play-backed IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
    Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
    • HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx. 25Gb.
    less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
    • How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
    • Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
    • Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
    iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera record in = 100% to iDVD
    • What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
    other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
    Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
    strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
    Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
    • What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
    (If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JES_Deinterlacer_3.2.2 do the conversion)
    (Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
    (US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
    (EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
    UNLESS. They are play-backed by a Mac - then You need not to care
    • What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
    • How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
    Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
    Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
    Best / High Performances (most often my choice before Pro Quality)
    1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
    (x4 by some and may be even better)
    2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
    Region codes.
    iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
    DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
    1 = US
    2 = EU
    unclemano wrote
    What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
    I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
    I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
    For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
    to get this to work I
    • Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
    • Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
    • Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
    • No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
    • and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
    • and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start  a brand new iDVD project
    • Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
    • Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
    Try to break the process up into two stages
    • Save as a DiskImage (calculating part)
    • Burn from this .img file (burning stage)
    To isolate where the problem starts.
    Another thing is - Playing it onto a Blu-Ray Player. My PlayStation3 can play BD-disks but not all of my home made DVDs so to get this to work I
    • Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
    • Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
    • Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
    • No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
    • and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
    • and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start  a brand new iDVD project
    • Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
    • Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
    TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
    • Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
    • No other programs running in BackGround e.g. Energy-Saver
    • Don’t let HD spin down or be turned off (in Energy-Save)
    • Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
    • Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
    • Set screen-saver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
    pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
    • No File Vault on - Important
    • NO - TimeMachine - during iMovie/iDVD work either ! IMPORTANT
    • Lot's of icons on DeaskTop/Finder also slows down the Mac noticeably
    • Start a new User-Account and log into this and iMovie get's faster too - if a project is in a hurry
    • And let Mac run on Mains - not just on battery
    Yours Bengt W

  • How can I Burn the Best Quality DVD from a project in i-movie 06' HD?

    Hello I shot a sort film with a Cannon HV-30 HD camera, edited it in i-movie 06 HD, it looks amazing! However I am a bit confused on what setting to burn it at in I-DVD...Best Quality or Best Performance? I herd it will not burn in HD so what is the next best? The short film is about 14 minutes long. Any advice would be appreciated!
    Thanks
    Steven

    "Best quality" of course.  ;-)
    "Best performance" is just a faster burning/encoding process. The playback quality is a little lower than "Best quality". Since you burn once and play many times, go for "Best quality".

  • Problem with "Best Quality" DVDs

    I put together a few DVDs using iDVD 6. One was a little under an hour and encoded fine with the default "Best Performance." This one plays in all the DVD players in my house, no problem. Two others were a little over an hour and iDVD 6 said there was too much information and to switch to "Best Quality." I did so and created the DVDs. They play fine on my PowerBook and iMac, but do not play in any other DVD players (which are pretty new). They appear not to be recognized ("No Disc Inserted" or it keeps spinning).
    Short of cutting out some content to make things fit with "Best Performance" (not really an option), does anyone know how to get around this problem?
    TIA
    PowerBook G4   Mac OS X (10.4.4)  

    Verbatim printable DVD-R
    That's what I use and have very few problems with other people's players. Zero problems with my Sony players. Give it a try.
    As far as burning speeds, the following includes info on how to do that by creating a disk image.
    Suggest you create a disc image and then burn the DVD. File/Save As Disc Image...
    http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=164927
    This will isolate any encoding/burning issues you may encounter. Once the disc image is created, double-click the .img and burn the virtual disc that should appear on your desktop, using Toast to burn the DVD. Disk Utility to burn the .img file. Usually, you can select a burning speed in Disk Utility.
    There are variations to this process based on which OS X you are using...
    Open Disk Utility (in Utilities folder in Applications folder), click on the virtual disc (maybe the .img) in the left-hand window. Click the Burn icon. A new window should drop down and your SuperDrive tray will open after clicking the Burn icon. Insert a recordable DVD. (Verbatim DVD-R preferred by me.) Click the Close button. Wait. Select a burn speed. Then click the Burn button.
    -->If the virtual disk selection won't allow you to click the Burn icon, use the .img file instead. This may have changed in 10.3.9 and did change in Tiger.
    Also, you can use DVD Player to play the virtual disk to check your iDVD project before burning to DVD. Launch DVD Player. File/Open VIDEO_TS (Open DVD Media... in Player 4.6). Find the VIDEO_TS folder and open that. (The audio folder is for DVD-Audio disks.)
    http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=93006

  • 90min best quality DVD?  still too poor

    I have a 68min 1080 apple pro res file to burn onto a DVD.  The file, as is, looks like great quality.  Little motion to the video..just someone on stage.  When I dump it into compressor (using the auto mpeg2 settings for best quality 90min) and then bring it into DVDSP...the quality looks pretty poor.  The text especially.  How can I improve upon this quality?  Thanks in advance!

    Heather,
    The clips do match the sequence and it is apparently interlaced, with field dominance read as upper. Not ideal, but no reason why you not have decent text.
    I agree that sending from FCP shouldn't hurt quality; it may even help. It's just slower and you don't get a fully rendered master.
    Some fonts are problematic – particularly for interlaced. If possible avoid busy font designs – including those with serifs. Drop shadows are pretty much a requirement – regardless of the font choice. Finally, the native text tools in FCP are not as good a Boris (which you can access from the FCP generator button or in Motion. (FWIW, my preference is to put a slug on the timeline and send that to Motion. Create my text in Motion, save and round trip back to FCP.)
    What I'd suggest, mark a short section that includes your text and send that to Compressor. Open frame controls (which should be on already) and click on the gear icon so you can change the resize filter from better to best.
    DOn't be concerned about the pixel shape. Compressor changes that from square to fit a 16:9 image into a 4:3 frame.
    In DVD Studio Pro, verify in your preferences>general that SD DVD menus, tracks and slideshows display mode is set 16:9 letterbox. Create a new test project and import your new test file. Format, waste a disk and see what effect changing the setting made.
    Let us know what you find out.
    Good luck.
    Russ

  • Making the best quality DVD from FCP

    Can anyone suggest how to make the highest quality DVD from an HDV FCP project?

    It's a fun website that I've seen people use recently : http://lmgtfy.com/
    It basically generates a url that you can post onto forums etc, and when you click on it, it takes you to the 'mock' google page, followed by the results. It's a polite but fun way of saying "Don't be so lazy, and do a search!". No offense intended to the OP.
    The Bruce image is one i had uploaded to Tinypic.com ages ago.
    Glad you like it!

  • Best quality dvd from YouTube

    How can I keep the best possible quality when burning a DVD form a YouTube video?

    ask the person who posted the video to send it to you under the original format. (remember: downloading and using videos from youtube without having the video owner's approval is illegal)

  • How do I get the best quality DVD rip?

    I need to rip some video from a DVD (my own work, no copyright issue) and everythign I try makes a noticably inferior quality video image.  I have used Handbrake and a few different commericial utilities.  I am looking to acheive a file size which is similar to the file on the DVD, which is about 1 GB.  I tried one utility which converted to Apple Pro Res .mov, but it made the file a massive 8 GB, but the image looked significantly worse!  Can't understand that.  I know the image is compressed on a DVD, but what is the best way to get it off and looking no less quality than it did on the DVD.  I eventually want to edit that file in Final Cut Pro X to make a showreel.
    Thanks

    Tom Wolsky wrote:
    That's wrong. You should use 720x480 anamorphic, which is what the original file should be if it was correctly made. I can't say what rip it is doing but that's the way it works.
    I don't see the option to use "anamorphic", so it comes out 4:3.  How do I fix that?
    In terms of Ripit's involvement in the process, I have also tried this using Streamclip, direct from a DVD and get the same results, so for all intents, Ripiit is not a factor here.  I only use it to get the encrypted DVD on to my drive (see earlier note about the material being my own work!).
    The distortion I see seems to coincide where interlace shows the most distortion too, so I'm figuring this may be related to de-interlacing, but I do need to de-interlace, so how do I get around that?  Here's the same image from the non-interlace output.  Otherwise, the Streamclip copy looks good, but stil need to deal with interlace.

  • Best quality dvd's

    which software shud i use to get dvd's on the computer and then to the ipod in these stages
    1. to pc
    2. shrink
    message back

    I think this way is easier
    1.) DVD Decrypter
    2.) Videora iPod Converter
    http://www.videora.com/en-us/Converter/guides.html
    Hope that helped

  • Creating the highest quality dvd

    I'm making a feature length film for Sundance. It's all shot in 1080i and the sound is in dolby digital. I'm new at all of this. What is the best quality set up for the best quality dvd non-hd? The movie is 1hr 50min. There are no special effects. I have to send it off Aug. 1st. Also, what is the best way to burn it after compression? Should I buy Popcorn or just use iDVD? Thanks for any help.

    Compressor with DVDstudio works best,
    however, in Compressor settings tab choose:
    Apple>DVD>DVD Best quality 150 minutes.
    This should give you a pretty good result but ...hey, it always depend on the source!
    Give it a go.
    G.

  • Setting for best quality in compressor

    Hi.
    I'm running FCP 5.1  and Compressor 2.3.1.  For best quality videos on youtube I've heard it's a good idea to max out the free space they make available to you.  What are the best settings I should use in Compressor for maximum quality uploads to youtube?  Also what's a good setting for good quality video with a smaller file size?  Also I should note most of my videos uploaded are of short duration 1 minute to 5 minutes.  I've been using the settings DVNTSC and it's okay but maybe there's something better you can recommend?  Also I tend to use Toast to burn DVD's.  What's a good setting for best quality dvd's?
    thank you!  

    For Youtube encoding, read these: http://www.kenstone.net/fcp_homepage/you_tube_redux_gary.html and http://www.kenstone.net/fcp_homepage/you_tube_hd_gary.html
    Keep in mind that the more compressed the file is (smaller file size), the lessor quality.
    As for DVD compression, I've always found Toast's encoder to create poorer quality DVDs than Compressor or DVD Studio Pro.  The best method would be to export a self-contained or reference movie from FCP (Do NOT use QuickTime Conversion), then import that file into Compressor.  Use the DVD preset in Compressor that best matches your movie's duration.  You can duplicate and adjust presets as needed for your particular movie.  Compressor will create the needed MPEG-2 video file (.m2v) and Dolby Digital audio file (.ac3).  Import those two files into DVD Studio Pro for authoring and burning.
    -DH

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