Best ram for macbook pro 2011?

I am thinking about upgrading my macbook pro 2011 with 8gb or 16gb (overkill?) of ram. Which is the best ram/bang for the buck?

I upgraded to Crucial 16 GB on my MB Pro 6 months ago and have never, ever, even once been sorry or less than amazed.
Of course, a Crucial 512 GB SSD does not hurt, either. They work together seamlessly. Nice Mac, nice Mac.
12 seconds to boot up from full Shut Down? Too cool ............................................................................... ..
Leonardosanti says.
PS FYI: My old Apple-supplied 500 GB hard drive is now separately enclosed and makes an excellent full backup. Using SuperDuper to clone, it is bootable albeit as a spinning disc hard drive it runs much slower. Had my old Snow Leopard system and files on it. Jumped to a clean install of Mountain Lion. Did all this myself, glad its done, whew, successfully. The Ram and the SSD are gems, like the Crucial support people.
PPS Yes, these were expensive improvements. Ouch but ... Worth it.
Message was edited by: Leonardosanti

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8GB OWC RAM for Macbook Pro 2011 13''

Can anyone vouch for OWC RAM? Is it a good brand? I want to upgrade to 8GB but got kernel panics with Crucial RAM.

OWC isn't a brand, they are a product retailer. However, their products are well known and reliable. Give them a try although you may end up with Crucial RAM as they do handle that brand.
What you really need to do is contact Crucial tech support as they have a good warranty and stand behind their products.

Hello! Help please! Best external hard drive preferably 1TB for macbook pro 2011. thank you!!!

Hello! Help please! Best external hard drive preferably 1TB for macbook pro 2011. thank you!!!

You can pickup any 1TB USB powered drive for about $100 at just about any local office supply store.
It comes formatted FAT32 (MSDOS) for reading by OS X and Windows PC's.
However if your files sizes are going to be larger than 4GB in size (like video tends to be) then your going to need to select the drive in OS X's Disk utility (in the Applicaitons > Utilities folder) and format the drive exFAT instead.
exFAT is a drive format that 10.6.5 and later Mac's, Windows Vista and 7 machines can read just fine. XP machines need a free exFAT drive install from Microsoft.
Do backup the 1TB to another 1TB drive using Carbon Copy Cloner or another backkup utility because 1TB is a lot of data to lose on a $100 drive.
I don't advise the "port powered" USB drive as these tend to have power issues and with 1TB of data on it, very risky. Use a powered drive if you can all help it.

What is the best stylus for macbook pro?

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What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

Where can i buy ram for macbook pro

Where can I buy RAM for MacBook Pro 15 inch?
I brought December 2012
Do I need to upgrage for Srorage?

See Apple Mac Memory Upgrades at OWC or Crucial
Both are reliable and offer memory known to work with Macs

MAXIMUM RAM for MacBook Pro Core 2 Duo Mid 2010

What is the MAXIMUM RAM for MacBook Pro, 2.4 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, Mid 2010 - 24MC374LL/A, running OS X 10.8.2 (12C60)?
I tried to search for this but was unable to find anything.
Apple Specs say 8GB, but I was just told by someone I THINK would know, that you can actually go up to 16GB.
This would be an enormous improvement to my workflow if true.
Anyone out there know for certain?
Making sure before I buy (or NOT!)
Thanks.
Jerry G

I just found this post and I realize this is a late response but maybe it will help others.
Based on recent circumstances I just happened to have two 8GB DDR3 modules collecting dust. Having an old trusty MacMini as my media center, server among other things and whatnot, I was curious if I could bump this little thing to 16GB. In doing so I found this post and verified with OWC.
End result:
Booted with no issues, and is running nice and smooth. Should be noted that just adding 16GB of RAM to a Core 2 Duo will not make the machine lightning fast or become some amazing computing platform. It will just make the box run a bit quicker and give you the ability to have more applications open before you begin to note some lag.
However this is really nice to see:

Ram upgrade for macbook pro 2011

Hi people, i have a 2011 macbook pro with 4GB RAM ; i7 quadcore processor. I am planning to upgrade the RAM. I dont really need it because I do not play games anymore neither do I do any video or photo editing, i just use it with xcode mainly. But my question is not whether i need it or not ! I need someone who has done this before to tell me the differences they noticed after the installation. Was there a big difference, small difference, and what was it. I know what more RAM will do. I just need to know if there is a big difference or not from 4 to 8 specificall for the macbook pro 2011. I am running Lion by the way. If someone could suggest some websites were i can buy the RAM at cheapest price that would be splendid. Thanks !!

macsales.com
I've bumped my ram up to 8 GB. However, I did that because I used programs like Photoshop and usually have five or more application running at the same time. If what you say is your MBP usage leave it alone you don't need it.

What's the maximum memory ram for Macbook Pro?

Hello,
May I know what's the maximum memory ram capacity for Macbook Pro?
I am having Macbook Pro - 2.53GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
Thank you!
Alvin

Hate to resurrect a dead horse but....I was looking in the instructions for memory upgrades and the instructions specified that the computer will only recognize 3 gigs. Will that still be in effect if I upgrade to Snow Leopard when it becomes available? Or do I need to save my pennies for a Mac Pro? What I am getting at is: is the reason for the RAM cap due to software issues, 64 bit not being native, different version of leopard used on notebooks, or is it due to hardware issues.

Recommended external HDD for MacBook Pro 2011 15"?

Hello,
I'm looking for external HDD for new MacBook Pro 2011 15". Is there any external HDD available with Thunderbolt port? Any recommended HDD using FireWire 800 port?
Since this is m first Mac, I'm not much familiar with Mac Accessories. Any further info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

That's a good drive, but not as great as those based on 3.5" hard drives. The nice thing about buying that drive is you can swap your hard drive in your MacBook Pro with the one in that case. 3.5" hard drives as desktop hard drives typically are faster, and are more suited to a desk environment. 2.5" hard drives are great for portable use. Be sure to get the DC in adapter for it to plug in the wall. There may be times you don't have enough power on the computer to keep it up.

Graphic for macbook pro 2011?

Hi Guys:)
i reacently purchased the new Macbook pro 2011 and after a while of usage i wonder if there is any way external or internal (doesn't matter) to boost your graphic preformance??

7200RPM hard drives can boost your overall performance, and so can SSDs. 17" MacBook Pros can have external SATA via Express/34 added to boost performance. Hard drives that are over 85% full will significantly degrade performance. Make sure any hardware drivers or software you have has been tested with your GPU, and CPU, and operating system down to the point release. Just because something is 10.6.x compatible doesn't mean it is anything more than 10.6 and 10.6.1 compatible. It may have issues with 10.6.7.
Run the font update for 10.6.7 if it hasn't been already, if you are running 10.6.7:
http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1377

Best SSD upgrade for macbook pro 2011 13"???

Hello all, I have a early 2011 macbook pro with 8gb ram, my question is what is the best ssd to upgrade the hdd from, I know the samsung 830 series is good and is the preferred choice for some people, and the crucial m4 is a good choice too, but has anybody had any hands on experience with these drives and any problems with firmware, lockups etc? I also know about the Intel drives too they are some of the most relaibe, I want it to be as trouble free as possible haha !
Thanks
Sam

Samhp007 wrote:
I want it to be as trouble free as possible haha !
Then purchase one of these:
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/SSD/OWC/

Best upgrades for MacBook Pro Late 2011

Hello, searching in the community, only brings me to posts that are from 2012, as newer tech is available, I would like to renew the question and hopefully get some updated comments and suggestions.
I own a MacBook Pro 15 late 2011 (2,2GHz Intel Core i7, 4GB 1333 MHz DDR3, matte retina display, Intel HD Graphics 3000 384 MB, OS X 10.9.5 13F34).
I would like to upgrade to Mavericks and while I'm at it, I'll upgrade the hardware as well (HD and RAM).
I'm a photographer, and I noticed that Lightroom and PS are running slower as I upgraded through the OSs, this is the main reason for my need to upgrade, I would like more speed overall. There are so many choices of SSDs and RAMs on the net, I would love to get some good feedback from this post and maybe boil this down to three upgrade possibilities:
1 The BEST (meaning the top of the line and probably most expensive)
2 The MID (good compromise between price and performance)
3 The CHEAP (the least expensive choice to make the computer increase performance)
I really appreciate all the help I can get from the Community.
Marco Benvenuto
P.S.
If by any chance I missed a post that already answered my question, please link it to this one ;-)

I just bought the Crucial M550 CT512M550SSD1!!! Thank you so much for your help
If I could still pick your brain with another question...
I also have a Mac Pro 2 x 2,26 GHz Quad-Core Intel Xeon, 6 GB 1066 MHz DDR3 ECC, NVIDIA GeForce GT 120 512 MB, OS X 10.9.5 (13F34)
Since there are fast PCI slots available, I was looking to put an SSD in there, but I noticed that the price difference is substantially higher.
I wont need more than 240/256 GB for the MacPro, since I have 2 2TB HDs and some others in there.
My question is: is the performance of the PCI SSDs compared to the regular SDD worth the up-upgrade?
Or should I just get another Crucial M550 (256GB) and put it in the second DVD bay?
I'm thinking to put the RAM on hold for both computers for now, but I probably will get Crucial for both a.s.a.p.

Problems upgrading RAM for Macbook Pro 13" late 2011

First, thank you all for your assistance.
I don't know if this has happened to anyone yet. I have a 13" late 2011 MacBook Pro that came with a default 4 GB of RAM. I considered upgrading to 8 GB and problems arose: I had stripes 1 inch in lenght distributed across the screen. I've done some research and saw that it was a hardware problem with the Graphics Card/GPU. I switched back to the original 4 GB and so far so good, no problems. I did notice a few key things:
Originally I have 384 MB of Video Ram in the GPU
While using the 8 GB Ram upgrade, it said 512 (called my attention)
It reverted to 384 when switching to the original RAM
In the tech specs section of Apple Support site about my machine, it says that the Video RAM is "shared" with main memory. No other knowledge on that.
Could the RAM upgrade affected the memory supported by the GPU? Why did it increase? Is there any solution to this?
Thanks to everybody in advance.

It should - I've 16GB of RAM installed in my late 2011 15" and my built-in card now shows 512MB of VRAM. There might have been a problem with the RAM you installed. I would only buy Crucial, Kingston (not the 'value' brand), OWC or Corsair (again, not the 'value' brand).
Some RAM sellers simply have less than stellar performance using Macs. Make sure that you install the correct speed and specs as recommended by Apple.
Good luck,
Clinton

Max RAM for MacBook Pro 13-inch, Early 2011?

I have a 13-inch MacBook Pro (early 2011 model). The Apple page for that particular machine seems to say that the max RAM is:
4GB (two 2GB SO-DIMMs) of 1333MHz DDR3 memory; two SO-DIMM slots support up to 8GB
However, when I found the same model MBP on Crucial, the reccommended upgrade suggested was a 16GB kit (2 x 8GB SO-DIMMs).
Does anybody know which one of these suggestions is right? I obviously don't want to buy double the RAM that I need, but at this point I would quite like to max it out....??

"4GB (two 2GB SO-DIMMs) of 1333MHz DDR3 memory; two SO-DIMM slots support up to 8GB"
This means, Apple tested the computer with only 8GB memory.

Best ram for macbook pro 2011?

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