Best reasonably priced smartphone for skype

I am planning to buy a smartphone that I can use to connect to 3g networks and make skype calls. Which phone is best for this purpose? If it is preinstalled with Skype I feel more confident that skype would work well but I can of course install it by myself too. Should I go for Symbian or Android phones. I was thinking about HTC Wildfire but then read reviews it was terrible to use with skype. I would prefer not to buy the most expensive phone. A phone that was released one year ago or so would be ok for me too.

Hi xperiafan
As per my knowledge go for Nokia N900 so you can make Skype video call from this device. Skype is preinstalled in this device. Or go for any android device which version 2.2.
Thank you.

Similar Messages

What's best "reasonable priced" flash for a 7d (action photos)

I don't mind going used. I need something that will help With indoor warehouse type racing facility's with poor lighting.
Www.rc-ops.com

Not sure what you consider "reasonably priced"...
430EX II is about $270 new (Amazon). You might find it for a bit less used or a refurb at the Canon online store.
It's a pretty nice flash... Plenty of power, without being too large.
You also might want to look at 550EX or 580EX, 580EX II used... these are larger, but have the advantage of being able to use with CP-E4 or CP-E3 auxiliary battery pack. If you are doing action shots, you might want an external battery pack to speed up recycling. (Also use quality rechargeable AAs in everything, for faster recycling).
420EX, 430EX and 430EX II can't be used with a CP-E4, but there are third party battrey packs that will work with them.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Best reasonably priced macro lens for a 70d

Hi i have got a canon 70d and have just started doing alot of macro photography (Flowers bugs etc) i've been using the the 18-135mm kit lens but now i know im enjoying it im going to get a mocro lens. Cant afford nothing to major as saving for wedding and house. Was just looking for some advice on reasonably priced macro lenses. Any Advice welcome..
Thanks in advance
Darren

amfoto1 wrote:
Actually, it's hard to go wrong with macro lenses... Most give excellent image quality, so it tends to be the other features that are deciding factors. I have no idea what you consider "reasonably priced".... To one person that might be no more than $100, while to another it might be anything under $1000.
Canon EF 50/2.5 Compact Macro is currently about $270... As an EF lens, this can be used on both your crop camera and on full frame cameras. But this is a micro motor focus drive lens (slower, hunts more), and on it's own it only goes to 1:2 or one half life size magnification. To get full 1:1 magnification with it, there's a separately sold converter that costs another $270. You also could use macro exension tubes - that sell for between $70 and $200 for a set - to increase the lens' magnification. All the other macro lenses listed here are able to do 1:1 without need for any adapter. 50mm is fairly short focal length, putting you relatively close to your subject. This lens' closest focus is about 4 inches (with 1:1 adapter... compare to 12 inches with a 100mm lens). Personally I use shorter macro focal lengths mostly in-studio where they can work well.... but prefer a longer focal length in the field. Uses 52mm filters. No lens hood offered or supplied, it doesn't really need one because the front element is deeply recessed into the lens.
SIgma 50/2.8 Macro lens sells for about $350. I don't know much about this lens, it's been around for a while. I know it's 1:1 capable, both crop and full frame capable and has a micro motor focus drive. Comes with a lens hood. Uses 55mm filters.
Canon EF-S 60/2.8 USM Macro is on sale at the moment for $420. It's an EF-S lens, which will work fine on your 70D, but is not usable on a full frame camera. USM focusing drive is a bit faster, quieter and more precise (see below about focus speed). It's full 1:1 capable, a little longer focal length than 50mm, but not a lot. It's relatively compact and it is "internal focusing" or IF, which means it doesn't change length when focused. It uses 58mm filters and the matched lens hood sells separately for $24 (third party hoods are available for less).
Tamron SP 60/2.0 "Di II" Macro/Portrait lens is selling for about $525 and, like the Canon 60mm Macro, is a "crop only" lens. Fine for your 70D, but not usable on full frame cameras. It's also IF, but using a micro motor type focus drive. I've been working with one of these lately, giving it a try. I find it's focus slower than Canon USM, but generally plenty fast for most macro/portrait usage. The main attraction of this lens is its f2.0 aperture... fully a stop larger than most other macro lenses (Zeiss makes a couple f2.0 macro lenses, but they are manual focus only and quite expensive). This is nice particularly when using the lens for portraiture. It uses 55mm filters and comes with a lens hood.
Canon MP-E 65mm is not a lens I'd recommend to anyone just starting out shooting macro. This is an ultra high magnification lens... actually can do no less than 1:1 and goes as high as 5:1. That's a range well beyond what many people shoot. It's also about $1000 and stricly manual focus. It's a superb lens, usable on both crop sensor and full frame cameras, and one I use personally. But it's still not something I'd recommend to anyone just starting to shoot macro. It's rather challenging to work with, pretty much a "tripod only" lens. Comes with a tripod mounting ring, uses 58mm filters and an odd little lens hood sells separately for around $40.
Sigma 70mm f2.8 EX DG macro lens.... is another I don't know a whole lot about. Like their 50/2.8 macro, it's been around a long time and uses a micro motor type focus drive. It is the first lens in this list that has a Focus Limiter (2 ranges), which is a feature that can be helpful speeding up auto focusing. It sells for about $470, uses 62mm filters and comes with a matched lens hood.
Tamron SP 90mm f2.8 Di is another excellent design that's been around a long, long time. I've still got and use manual focus versions of this lens dating back to the 1980s. The currently available micro motor version sells for $500 and, as a Di lens is usable on both crop and full frame cameras. It's got a focus limiter (2 ranges), uses 55mm filters and includes a matching lens hood. It is not an IF lens.
Tamron SP 90mm f2.8 Di VC USD is an updated version of their venerable 90mm, now with both an improved AF system (USD is similar to Canon's USM) and image stabilization (Tamron calls it VC). It is said to be better sealed against dust and moisture, and also uses an aperture with 9 curved blades to make for smoother background blurs. This lens is Internal Focusing (IF), has a Focus Limiter (4 ranges!), was introduced within the last year or so selling for about $750, uses 58mm filters and comes with a matched lens hood.
Canon EF 100/2.8 USM is another excellent lens I use personally. This is the older version of this lens without IS (and not L-series, but you would be hard pressed to tell any difference in build quality, comparing it to some L-series such as the 180/3.5L macro). A key feature here is that it can optionally be fitted with a tripod mounting ring.... something that's not possible with most of the other lenses mentioned here. For macro work, I consider a tripod mount a very important feature, though some of the smaller lenses might be fairly usable on a tripod without one. This lens has USM focus drive, is IF, has a Focus Limiter (2 range), sells for about $550 presently, and uses 58mm filters. A matched lens hood is quite large and sells separately for about $40. Tripod Ring B to fit it sells for about $140 (there are cheaper third party hoods and tripod rings).
Canon EF 100/2.8 L IS USM is a newer model that primarily is upgraded with the addition of Image Stabilization (IS). Now designated an L, it includes a matched lens hood. Like the older model, a tripod ring can be optionally fitted. It has an improved Focus Limiter (increased to 3 ranges). It uses 62mm filters and is currently on sale for $900. Tripod Ring D sells for $172 (cheaper 3rd party ring is avail.).
Tokina 100/2.8 ATX is both crop and full frame compatible and sells for about $400. I haven't used it, but it's another venerable design that's been around for a lot of years. It has a Focus Limiter (2 range), uses 55mm filters and comes with a matched lens hood. I don't believe it's IF.
Sigma 105/2.8 OS HSM is currently on sale, heavily discounted, for about $670. I suspect Sigma is about to introduce a new version and that's why they are blowing out the current model with a large instant rebate. It is both crop sensor and full frame camera compatible. The current version has OS, which is Sigma's version of image stabilization, as well as HSM which is similar to Canon's USM focusing drive. This lens has a Focus Limiter (3 ranges), uses a 9 blade aperture, 62mm filters and comes with a matched hood. It cannot be fitted with a tripod ring.
Canon, Sigma and Tamron all offer longer macro focal lengths... 150mm and 180mm. In general I'd say those are pretty long to use on a crop sensor camera such as your 70D or my 7Ds. They all come with tripod rings, which is good because longer macro lenses can be difficult to keep steady. But they all are also considerably more expensive, so I won't go into the details about them.
Regarding auto focus speed... All macro lenses with AF are slower focusing for a couple reasons. One is that they have to move their focusing mechanisms a long, long way to go all the way from infinity to 1:1 magnification. Another is by design, they use "long throw" focus mechanisms that emphasize accuracy over speed, which is necessary because depth of field can be quite shallow at high magnifications. So, in general, don't expect a macro lens to offer the same AF speed as a non-macro lens with similar focus drive mechanism. What can help a lot are the type of focus drive and if the lens offers a Focus Limiter. Canon's USM, Sigma's HSM and Tamron's USD all will give faster focusing than micro motor drive systems on other lenses. Properly used, a Focus Limiter can really speed up focusing performance, too.
When shooting macro, auto focus speed usually isn't all that critical. In fact, I often just focus manually. Accuracy often is more important, due to the shallow depth of field. So AF perfomance might be a bigger consideration if planning to also use the lens a lot for non-macro purposes.
Image Stabilization (Canon OS, Sigma OS and Tamron VC) is offered on a few premium models. Canon's is a special hybrid version developed just for macro purposes, which most feel is a bit more effective than other forms of stabilization. Nikon actually was the first to put stabilization (they call it VR) on a macro lens, but most agree that while it's useful for non-macro shooting, it is of little practical assistance at 1:1 magnification. The Canon hybrid IS is considered to be a bit better at higher magnifications, but even it will be of limited effectiveness at 1:1. In other words, there may be times when you want to use a tripod or at least a monopod. And in those cases, particularly on some of the larger lenses, a tripod mounting ring can be a very nice thing to have (among all the above, only the Canon 100mm macro lenses can be fitted with a t'pod ring).
There are other options to "do macro", too. For example, you could simply get some Macro Extension Tubes to use with your current lens, to make it focus closer. Canon offers quality individual tubes in 25mm and 12mm lengths ($84 and $140 respectively). Kenko does too, but also offers a set of three that includes 12mm, 20mm and 36mm lengths (set sells for $200). The Kenko are very close to the Canon in design, quality and performance.
There are also less expensive sets (under $100) from Zeikos and Opteka. The Zeikos set includes 13mm, 21mm and 31mm and sell under a bunch of different brand names (Vivitar, Bower, Dot Line, ProOptic and many more). The Opteka set was just recently introduced and includes 12mm, 20mm and 36mm. All these sets are more plasticky than the Canon and Kenko tubes, but they do support autofocus and direct control of the aperture.
AFAIK, all the currently sold macro extension tubes for Canon mount are compatible with both EF and EF-S lenses. (If you were shopping used you'd have to be careful because some of the older tubes were EF only and could not be used with your EF-S 18-135mm lens).
Canon's TS-E 45mm and TS-E 90mm lenses also are usable for near-macro and, with extension tubes added, macro shooting. These are Tilt-Shift lenses that give additional control over the plane of focus which can be used to good effect with macro and shallow depth of field. I use a TS-E 45mm a lot for table top studio shots of small products. However, these are manual focus only, largely tripod-only and rather pricey lenses, so I just wanted to mention them here. They are probably not something I'd recommend for a first time macro shooter or general purpose, outdoor, walk-around macro work.
Personally, my two most-used macro lenses are a Canon EF 100/2.8 USM (the older model) and a Tamron SP 60/2.0. When I'm planning to shoot a lot of outdoor, walk-around macro shooting, the Canon lens is my first choice. However, it's rather large so when I'm not planning macro, but want to have a macro lens just in case, I'll substitute it with the much more compact Tamron lens. (Which also can replace two portrait lenses in my camera bag, so reduces my load by one lens serving in place of three.)
Another key consideration is flash. Often when shooting macro it's a challenge to get enough light to allow a stopped down lens, desirable ISO and adequately fast shutter speed. So you probably will find yourself wanting to use flash sooner or later. Canon offers two macro-specific flashes: the MR14 EX Ring Lite and the MT24EX Twin Lite. I use both for different purposes. I prefer the Twin Lite for macro shots up to about 1:1, maybe 2:1 (double life size) magnification. The Ring Lite I mostly use for very high magnification shots with the MP-E 65mm lens.
All the Canon lenses above have provision for, or can be adapted to allow for direct mounting of the two Canon macro flashes (Note: I believe there is a new "Mark II" version of the Ring Lite coming out soon). There also are adapters available to mount these flashes on non-macro Canon or onto third party lenses. It also is possible to use a single "standard" flash, along with an off-camera shoe cord and some sort of diffusion to hold back the flash, when shooting macro. I do that often with 550EX and 580EX II flashes.
There are other macro-specific accessories you may want to consider eventually. Often I'll use a diffusion panel and/or a reflector when out in full sun, to reduce too extreme contrast and help fill too-deep shadows. A focusing stage is another useful thing, when shooting macro with a tripod.
Finally, I recommend you pick up some books on macro photography. John Shaw's "Close-Ups in Nature" is perhaps the "Bible" among them and likely the most comprehensive. I also found books about macro by Tim Fitzharris and Joe & Mary MacDonald very helpful and interesting. I'm sure there are others, but those came immediately to mind.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM
Almost 2,400 words to answer a macro lens post? Alan, nobody can believe you can write so much (except TCampbell, ha ha) but you risk nobody wanting to read. See the link that follows for the sort of difficulty readers have with this sort of post, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Too_long;_didn't_read

Best reasonably priced iPod FM Transmitter for the car?!?!?!?!

I've been looking at loads of FM transmitters out there and frankly I'm overwhelmed with which one to choose. I'd rather not spend 80 bucks if I don't have to but I also want something which will give me the best sound quality. I know that none will be perfect but it would be nice to have one that would give me enjoyable quality. I live in the bay area where we have tons of radio stations so I know that'll make it even more difficult. Has anybody (possibly in any metro area) had any real success with one of these? Any help is appreciated, thanks.
On a side note, I have a 2006 Altima w/Bose and SAT. Does anybody know of any relatively easy and/or inexpensive ways to wire the iPod to my car's audio if an FM Transmitter is not the way to go? I currently pay for Sirius so if it's possible to be able to use that when my iPod is disconnected that'd be awesome. Thanks again.
MacBook 2.0ghz; iPod 20gb Mac OS X (10.4.7) Windows XP

Welcome to the discussions. Have you tried the Five R's?
JC

Best reasonably priced wide angle lens does anyone recommend?

I have a 70d and would like to get much more from close up wide angular shooting, without breaking the bank.
Are there alternatives to a canon 10-22mm or 12-24 ( not sure if my specs are correct, no doubt someone will put me straight!) , sigma...tokina..etc..?

The Canon EF-S 10-22mm is hard to beat. It's an excellent lens, well corrected, fast focusing, nice color renditions, super sharp, very good flare control (better than any other ultrawide I've seen). The only thing I'd tick as a negative is the lens hood is quite large... still, after testing I wouldn't be without it.
Tokina AT-X 12-24mm is the lens I rank second. It's also good in all respects, might even be better built (reminds me very much of a 17-35/2.8 L I had). It is not quite as sharp as the Canon and not quite as good handling flare. But still is excellent and better than most. It's also on sale right now (there's a new model out).
The Tokina 11-16mm is a popular lens for those who feel they need an ultrawide with f2.8 aperture. It's the only one that offers that. It is very sharp, close to or maybe even sharper than the Canon. However, it's quite prone to flare. Some people have no problem with that... Others have told me they ended up getting a different lens instead, because of the flare issues. I guess it depends upon what you shoot and how you shoot it, but flare can be an issue with lenses that cover a very wide angle of view. It's also a significant trade-off to get to f2.8, that this lens only has a very narrow range of focal lengths. All other ultrawides are at least 2X zooms. 11-16mm is only 1.45X.
Tokina has a new 12-28/4 out now, too... I have not used or compared it.
These three Tokinas and two Sigmas offer non-variable aperture design. All other ultrawides have variable apertures. This may or may not matter to you. I think the main place where variable aperture may be an issue is if using manual flash or studio strobes a lot. Variable aperture isn't a big deal for most.
Sigma offers a number of ultrawides. Their most affordable is a 10-20mm with a variable aperture. It's a decent lens that a lot of people find fine. I tried out an earlier version and decided I liked the Tokina better, so bought that instead (I now also have the Canon 10-22mm). Main thing I noticed was slightly less sharpness and more flare. But, do note that this lens has been revised once or twice since then and newer versions might improve upont this.
Sigma also offers a 10-20mm f3.5 with a non-variable aperture. It is quite large, heavy and more expensive. I have never used it.
SIgma also offers the widest of the wide... an 8-16mm. I haven't used it. It has strong, inherent wide angle distortion effects (almost as much as a fisheye lens). But that's to be expected with such an extreme lens.
There is a Sigma 12-24/4, too... but it's actually a full-frame capable lens (widest of the wide for FF, in fact), which makes it larger, more expensive and less well corrected. Not necessary for a 70D with it's APS-C crop sensor.
Finally, there is a Tamron 10-24mm. It's been many years since I tried one, but I seem to recall it was a bit soft in the 18-24mm range and didn't seem as well made as some of the others. It has been one of the more affordable and offered the widest range of focal lengths in a single zoom.
There aren't many prime lenses that are truly wide on a crop sensor camera. The only fairly affordable one that comes to mind is the Rokinon/Samyang 14mm f2.8. It's a manual focus, manual aperture lens that's full frame capable, but just barely gets into the ultrawide category for crop sensor cameras too. Sells under a bunch of different brand names, besides Rokinon or Samyang you'll also see it as a Vivitar (they call it a 13mm), Bower, ProOptic... maybe some more.
Most other ultrawide primes tend to be quite pricey (Canon's own 14/2.8L, Zeiss 15mm, for example).
You'll have to define what "best" means for you. All ultrawides have different pluses and minuses. You'll also have to decide what you consider "affordable". Have fun shopping!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Best External hard drive for 2011 macbook air

i recently recieved a 2011 macbook air and heard that it is easier on the computer to use an external hard drive
if this is true what would be the best reasonably priced one to buy?
thanks

http://www.hgst.com/external-drives/mobile/touro-mobile-pro
This I have found is a very good "bang for the buck" drive. 7200 RPM drive, and USB 3.0, if later you can advantage of it. If you want anything faster, you will have to raise your budget quite a bit going with a Thunderbolt drive, in which case I would recommend the Seagate GoFlex.
You may also want to consider a LaCie's Rugged Triple in 500 GB 7200 RPM configuration, and use the $29.00 Thunderbolt-Firewire adapter.
http://www.lacie.com/us/products/product.htm?id=10553

What is the best and reasonably priced external cd/dvd optical drive for an Imac 21.5 inches from late 2009?

What is the best and reasonably priced external cd/dvd optical drive for an Imac 21.5 inches from late 2009?

A lot of people have a Mac where the superdrive has been taken out to be replaced with a harddisk. Try to find a friend who has done that, give him a beer and take the superdrive, then buy a superdrive container from OWC or another for afew dollars and put it in there. This slimdrive container has a USB connector. There you go.

Best reason for a built-in downloader in Bridge

I just heard the best reason to have a photo downloader built-in to Bridge. I already own Downloader Pro from Breeze Systems which is a bit complicated to set up, but has great functionality. But, because it's not integrated into Bridge, my workflow has extra steps in it that aren't necessary.
So now I just read that the new RawShooter Premium has a great feature. It has a built-in downloader and while doing the download, it is also building all the thumbnails. Thus, when the download finishes, there's no extra step to scan your whole directory and then build thumbs. This is a huge workflow time savings. My typical workflow consists of. Pop the CF card into the reader, Downloader Pro pops up. I type in a job code to help name the directory meaningfully and hit OK. I walk away while while it downloads.
I come back after it downloads. I point Bridge at the new directory. I walk away again while Bridge builds it's thumbs.
If Bridge has a built-in downloader and was building thumbs during the download, I'd save a whole step in my workflow and a bunch of time.
It makes some sense to build thumbs during the download. After all, the entire image is going through RAW during the download anyway. It's better to do whatever needs to be done to the images on the first pass rather than putting them on disk with the download process and then coming back and reading them all over again to make thumbs.
I'm writing this not because I'm thinking about switching to RAW Shooter, but because I'd like to see Bridge improve and take this extra step and time out of my RAW workflow.
BTW, it would also help to allow Bridge to continue to build thumbs when I have the ACR window open. Now, as soon as I open a RAW image, all thumb building stops until I finish with the ACR window. The fact that Bridge won't build thumbs in the background while using ACR is a real pain and is why I have to walk away and wait for Bridge to finish building thumbs before starting the RAW edits.
--John

>
Adobe is fully committed to an injest feature.
I hope Adobe offers a richer downloader in the future that's competitive with other downloaders and that covers all the workflow steps involved in transferring images (auto-recognition of an inserted CF card, directory creation by a user-specified rule, directory naming including custom naming, ability to split into multiple directories by day from the same card, super fast download, download verification, card clearing, thumb building, etc...) all done with one interaction at the start of the download process.
I may experiment with pointing Bridge at the download directory and letting it start indexing at the same time as my downloader is getting the images. That might save one "walk-away-from-the-computer" step in my current workflow.
I think it's a cop-out to not offer to delete the images from the CF card after download. The user should be prompted and it should be a feature the user can turn off, but it's a mandatory step in any photo workflow, every other downloader I've seen offers this option (even the one in Photoshop Elements). If some users want to only delete images by reformatting in the camera, that's their prerogative. I only reformat every once in a while and I've never had a problem and doing it from Downloader Pro saves me a workflow step.
The ideal downloader would verify that every image was successfully transferred to the PC, inform the user that everything has been transferred and then prompt to clear the card with an option to turn off this feature.
One thing that is happening in the photo marketplace is that programs like RawShooter and Aperture have 100% focused on all aspects of the RAW workflow for the pro or enthusiast that shoots RAW. While I appreciate and use many of the RAW workflow improvements in the latest ACR/CS2, I hope we see the same kind of focus from Adobe. Downloading files from the card is just one piece of that workflow and Adobe doesn't have a competitive offering in that area now.
--John

Best headset for Skype and I-Tunes????

I'm getting tired of trying to find the best (and affordable) headset that I can use for Skype, as well as I-Tunes. I don't see a point in getting two separate headsets. In going online, I see that many folks find the Logitech to be uncomfortable to wear for long stretches. Any suggestions??? THANKS!!
P.S. I have an IMac G4 20-inch flat-screen (OSX 10.3.9)

Hello again,
It really is down to personal choice. Comfort. Value. Sound. Are all in the ears of the beholder.
Try here though....
Headphones
Hope that helps some
Regards
Ian

Recommendations for reasonably priced Time Machine back ups on my iMac?

For example, will the SanDisk Cruzer Fit CZ33 (64gb) USB work? Can you recommend an alternative if not? Some of the options for sale in the Apple store are really expensive, and overkill for the amount of info to be back up on my computer....
Thank you!

A Time Machine backup drive should be at least twice the capacity of your computer's hard drive. I doubt a flash drive will suffice. Check out OWC for some reasonably priced external hard drives.

I travel between countries often for my work. What is the best iphone to use for international calling at a reasonable cost?

I travel between countries often for my work. What is the best iphone to use for international calling at a reasonable cost?

All six Uk carriers carry the iPhone officially and micro sims are very common therefore
PAYG is very common in UK every carrier offers a number of packages but all commitment free
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1937
List of Turkish Carriers within this doc

Reasonably priced animation software for iMac

I am retired and while not at all well off, I am appreciative of being in the position of not having to earn money any more.
I am currently absorbed in putting together several generations of family photos, movies and keepsakes in as interesting and historically as possible, using iMovie. Unfortunately, iMovie is ok for fairly mundane taskes, If you can overcome it's restrictive/protective baises and malfunctions.
Anyway, I am looking for a reasonably priced animation software to use as a general purpose interfacer for movies and stills and explanations were necessary.
I have spent hours searching and testing softwares but found most lacking in facilities of one sort or another. Enough to make them not worth taking up room on my computer. I have deliberately avoided high end stuff costing many hundreds of £/$. Especially Adobe. I find their software very difficult to even get started with.
Xara exteem pro 5 was my first choice but their animation software will not run on a Mach and in any case you cannot convert their Pro 5 animations to anything usefull format so I am stuck and pleeding for help.
Can anyone recommend a animation software for iMac with broard facilities, similar to Xara Extreme Pro 5. up to, say $200 ?

What kind of animation do you want to do?
For animated humans is Poser Pro quite nice:
Poser 3D Animation & Character Creation Software - Official ...
A professional application would be Cinema 4D CINEMA 4D Studio - Everything You Need for High ... - Maxon
or Maya: http://www.autodesk.com/products/autodesk-maya/free-trial
I nearly forgot: A very powerful animation tool is the free Blender, see: Download - blender.org - Home of the Blender project - Free ...

I am looking for a reasonably priced sports video analysis software?

I am looking for a reasonably priced sports video analysis software? I need it to tag events during a sports game, then be able to recall the tags later. There is software out there, but not a lot that are MAC compatable.

There's no way to do those things on an iPad. If you have already installed a new application on the iPad (Disk Drill) then your file has probably already been overwritten. Sorry.

Service Desk: Pricing data for partner could not be read

Hi all,
I am trying to configure the Service Desk functionality for Service Providers (on EHP1).
I follow the SAP Documentation (SAP Solution Manager: Service Desk for Service Providers) and SLA's made easy in SAP Solution Manager. Also some discussion threads helped me with some steps (I applied e.g. the recommendation from Pricing data for partner 106 could not be read. , but it didn't help).
I am facing some errors related to the CRM part of the configuration.
When I create Service Desk Contract (SLFV) in CRMD_ORDER, the error appears Pricing data for partner xxx could not be read. I checked the setting of BP and I am not able to find the reason, for customer's (sold-to-party) BP the sold-to-party > Sales Area Data the Sales Organization/Distribution Channel/Division are maintained. Which information for pricing is needed and where can it be configured?
Another error - I am sure it is related to the first one - the service contract cannot be determined in the service message (in Item details view under product). The error messages are about sales area/organization, so I suppose there is something wrong with the link Service Contract -> Business Partner definition.
Could you please help me what can cause the error?
Thanks in advance,
Vaclav

Hi Balaji.S,
my problem was solved when I double checked the settings of org structure. That means there must be a consistent setting for sales organization / distribution channel / division in businness partner (tcode BP), organizational model (PPOMA_CRM), product workbench (COMMPR01). The setting must be same for both the sales department of the service provider and the customer's company (I am sorry I am not CRM, so I am following just this simple logic)
In the long text of the error (in CRMD_ORDER) I could see "expected" combination for sales organization / distribution channel / division (message e.g. The access was carried out with sales organization 'O 50000613', distribution channel '01' and division '') -> when the org model was set up everywhere in this way, the contract was automatically filled by the organization data and in the next step the contract could be determined in the service desk message.
Anyway it took some time to find out the correct combination. Deeper CRM knowledge would help me much.
Vaclav

What is best non-apple display for 15 inch macbook pro with retina display?

I am looking for a good and reasonably priced monitor to use with my MBP retina. I prefer one that rotates 90 degrees for portrait viewing. Any suggestions?
What adapter is needed to get good quality? Is the dual link adapter worth $100? Is it very much clearer than DVI? How does the HDMI connection compare? I've heard that HDMI only works as an external display in clamshell mode (computer closed). Does HDMI transmit sound and video or would I need two cords?
Thanks for any help!

The dual-link adapter is needed only for resolutions over 1920 x 1200. It won't improve the picture of lower resolution displays.
HDMI carries audio and video (up tp 1920 x 1200).
DVI (single or dual-link) is video only.
Mini DisplayPort (or DisplayPort with an adapter cable) is audio and video (up to 2560 x 1600).
All will give the same picture quality.

Best reasonably priced smartphone for skype

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for