Best settings and Format for Motion Logo to FCP

I working on a project in FCP using video that is SD 16x9 anamorphic and was trying to import some logo's and lower thirds from Motion to this project. I was wondering what settings I should be using in Motion to maintain the correct pixel aspect and also keep the quality of the logo high. I have had problems recently with certain motion projects and the quality becoming very poor once in FCP.
Also, I believe I am supposed to use a square as pixel aspect with logo's in Motion, where should I adjust that setting, in Motion or FCP? Thanks,

27993buck wrote:
I working on a project in FCP using video that is SD 16x9 anamorphic and was trying to import some logo's and lower thirds from Motion to this project. I was wondering what settings I should be using in Motion to maintain the correct pixel aspect and also keep the quality of the logo high. I have had problems recently with certain motion projects and the quality becoming very poor once in FCP.
Also, I believe I am supposed to use a square as pixel aspect with logo's in Motion, where should I adjust that setting, in Motion or FCP? Thanks,
There is no apostrophe in the plural form of logo any more than in the plural of third.
The workflow for anamorphic is clearly explained in the Motion manual. Where you get your logo is another issue. Why your quality is reduced in FCP is anyone's guess (apostrophe for possessive) and you have not provided any information that will help us figure that out for you. Was it squished? Was it pixelated? Wrong color? Fuzzy? Incorrect alpha?
*Using Square or Nonsquare Pixels When Creating Graphics*
*When you’re preparing to import graphics into Motion, it’s important to be aware of the pixel aspect ratio you’re using and whether your project requires you to work with square or nonsquare pixels.*
*Use nonsquare pixels for standard definition projects in NTSC or PAL.*
*Use square pixels for high definition projects, as well as multimedia video that will be played back only on computers and doesn’t use any captured video footage.*
*Graphics created on a computer, whether scanned, painted, or rendered, look distorted on a video monitor unless you account for the different pixel aspect ratio. Fortunately, this is easy to do, since every nonsquare video frame size has an equivalent square frame size that you can use to create your graphics.*
bogiesan
Message was edited by: David Bogie Chq-1third grade typos

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    If after doing the above still could not solve your battery issues (mine with iOS 5.0 was ok up to step 4, but not iOS 5.0.1).... plug you iPhone to a charger (any charger), from iPhone, access your iCloud ... set it up if you havent. Back up your iPhone data to iCloud. if you do not have enough storage (only 5GB is free), go to details and select the apps you need its data backup, choose only those you really need and leave those unnecessary ones out. Back up your camera roll to your PC/Mac manually as it could be too big to backup to iCloud.... once you have it setup, make sure you are on Wifi ...  tap backup to iCloud from your iPhone. It will take a while if the file is huge.
    Once backup to iCloud is completed, plug your iPhone to PC/Mac and launch iTunes 10.5.1 (make sure you have 10.5.1)
    Click Restore. It will automatically initiate a download of iOS 5.0.1 ipsw for iPhone 4S. Wait for the whole process to finish, ie. download, restore software/firmware.
    Once its done, do not set up your iPhone from iTunes. Set it up on your iPhone. Go through the selection. When prompted, select restore from iCloud (from your iphone backup earlier). Keep your iphone plugged into iTunes while restoring backup from iCloud. Because while restoring from iClouds, some data will be synced from iTunes if you plug in, e.g. music, video, etc... unless you bought these content from iTunes store. Apps will be downloaded from App Store from the cloud.
    Once it's all done restored. Turn off your iPhone,.. and turn it on again.
    Now, hopefully your battery wont be draining so fast anymore. Usually it wont after this. But you need to charge your battery at least 4-5 cycles to stabilize the charge on the battery. I dont know why... but battery life seems to get better and better for me after a few charge cycles after all the above work.
    Good luck. Let us know if it works for you.
    W. Raider tips (Sirii):
    Bottom line for me of things that helped battery life are:
    1. Turing off Siri and Rebooting the phone by holding the Home button and Top button down, ignoring the slider, until the phone shut down. (turn off Siri, reboot, and check top front of iPhone 4S against a lesser camera like the front-facing camera on an iPad2 - making sure the IR sensor is off)
    2. Fully draining the battery, meaning using the phone until it shuts itself off from a drained battery and then recharging it to 100% about 4, maybe 5 times. I charged it both with a Mac and a wall charger.
    Hope this is helpful!
    Comments
    jmm514 remarks (Twitter):
    I may have found something. I had Twitter disabled in my notifications, but got a tweet today that popped up on my home screen. Didn't know I had this enabled. At the bottom of the Twitter notification settings is the home scrren toggle. Since disabling this, battery life seems better. Considering there is no setting for frequency of checking for tweets, it appears the phone is continually connecting to wifi to check for new tweets.
    tmksnyder comments (notifications, corrupt data in iCloud):
    For me, I found my iphone on wifi mysteriously connecting to my mac.  I eventually narrowed it down to the Apple Move Trailers app which keeps a file in iCloud.  The phone was trying to sync the file with the mac in the background even when the Movie Trailers app was closed (hitting the red x).  Based on my macosx logs the iCloud process that was trying to sync was working directly between the phone and the mac without using itunes by connecting to an https address hosted on the phone.  It was connecting every 3 minutes and failing (while phone was awake or awake during during a notification).  I also found that iCloud control panel on OSX would error if I tried to delete the file.  I fixed it by removing the App and doing a hard reset which stopped the sync.  I probably could have turned off iCloud document sync in the phone but didn't think of that.  My battery life has greatly improved while at home on wifi.    I am now at 28 hrs standby, 2 hrs 20 minutes of usage, and 68% battery.  It was ok before where I could get 20-30 hrs standby and 6 -8 hrs usage.  My usage today was phone calls, 3g surfing, and music via bluetooth in the car.
    I also found even with Itunes iMatch, if I mass updated tages, art work etc, it would hit the phone on wifi even in standby.  I was amazed.   Granted if I am not doing updates, Match won't hot the phone so this was a once in awhile event.  I could drop my percentage by 5-10% in a matter of minutes when doing updates.   I think a lot of our problems are background processes, associated with iCloud, notification, and apps.  More features means more battery.   I think the key thing is to keep track of what has recently been added or changed if battery life gets worse all of a sudden.   It may be an app that was recently installed and if possible you may want to completely remove it and not just quit it.
    With twitter, i think it uses push notifications so it doesn't need to be running and actively poll on the phone. For instance , if i quit the mail app, i still will get mail notifications and can swipe the message and load mail. Apple Push Notifications servics maintain the connection to the phone and there are likely pings or connection checks  that occur for the service on an os level not an app level.  This minimizes the load so there arent a bunch of apps all runing and constantly checking.  The notification service , if it is contacted from twitter or another service with data, will check the settings you have registered to the with the apple push service and send the notification to your phone.  No matter what, there is a drain with notifications. M hunch is once one application is configured to receive notifications, connection checking occurs betwen the push service and the phone so it knows where it is on the network. If it is implemented correctly, these checks arent frequent if you are still and more frequent as you move. The other drain is for when the noification hits and is processsed.  If i get 9 emails over night, my screen just popped up for 20 seconds or so to process each message using battery.  I would even think that just go from low power to turning n the screen uses more juice than if the device was already on and i get the message.  On nights I get no notifications, I see a 3  or 4 percent drop.  On nights with a number of notifications, i have seen up to a 10 percent drop.  Besides notifications, wifi sync and icloud will poll on the local network and use up battery if the host computer is on and running itunes or trying to sync a data file that is corrupt (which i had with the apple movie trailers app causing my phone to drain).  For me turning off wifi sync and remving a corrupt file in icloud solved my battery issues and I get over 24 hrs of standby with 6 to 9 hrs of use and this is with all the normal location services and push serivices turned on.
    See http://developer.apple.com/library/mac/ipad/#documentation/NetworkingInternet/Co nceptual/RemoteNotificationsPG/ApplePushService/ApplePushService.html for more info.  I think it has a good overview of how the notifications work.

    Well seems like that rumor of iOS 5.0.1 is finally gone the way of the dogs since developers got a beta of 5.1. So as stated earlier in the master discussion-> I suspect if you are filling up this thread with false post or creating a master set of links to various post that are unreliable you are wasting your time. Press is not going to touch the story due to poor or inaccurate sources which may be links from the master thread. This can include inaccurate information, combination of conflicting post or postings from users which may not own the device. Reputable press organizations have policies that require discloser and strict rules about what is a reliable source for a story. It is clear that many of the post in the master thread, which are links presented here are questionable. 
    Sorry to say that postings taken without any analysis of their totality have been propagated via various sites, for example sites such as http://www.2012federalbudget(dot)com. (Do not visit but I suspect that this is not the 2012 federal-budget site you would expect based on analysis of the records. There are plenty of sites like http://www.2012federalbudget(dot)com propagating questionable post in these threads.) One site for example in the discussion thread used a self signed certificate, the site had a log in to allow users to enter their OpenID. Seems many of these sites are pop and drop drupel configurations.
    So remember this is how the really bad rumor of iOS 5.0.2 got started, the 5.1 memory leak issue, iCloud Issues, call quality, address book, etc.
    Some of the postings have been very comical, I think the latest now is a dropbox issue. Seems that the length of the previous thread has resulted in various app engines of some proxy servers/tools reaching their limits.
    So I would make sure to know the source of any information you link to. Make sure you avoid entering any information to outside links such as OpenID or Apple ID, these are big prize items for anyone with malicious intent.  If you have issues and are a valid user contact APPLE CARE. (Note link is using McAfee Secure Short URL Service, and is https.)
    http://mcaf.ee/ricdt
    The original solution still represents a high level of success for users having any battery issues.
    Install 5.0.1 on your iPhone 4s. Some users posting they are still using older versions, bad fake serial numbers, etc.
    Make sure your device can run iOS 5.0.1 and is not altered.
    Make sure you use a new Sim, not some cut down version which many users admit to doing. (Again, worth confirming what people are posting.)
    Reset the device doing a hard reset and software reset.
    Let battery drain and then charge for the full cycle, which is 24 hours.
    I think you will find you will get the battery usage that APPLE has stated for the device.
    Best of luck, stay safe and thanks

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    Because I'll be writing different groups of data at different rates, using the  advanced api to just get one (set) og header(s) is not an option.
    TDMS files are very versatile, it is great to be able to dump a new group/channel into the file at any time, and to have a file format that is supported by other applications as well. However, if the number of writes are many and the size of each write is (has to be) small the performance gets a serious hit. In this particular case performance trumphs ease of use so I'll probably  need to rewrite our custom binary format to preallocate chunks for each group (feature request for TDMS? :-) ).
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