Best small business switch for 100-300 user UC deployments

Hello,
The SMART Designs state that both the ESW500 and 300-series switches should not be used for deployments of over 100 IP phones.
But now that both the UC560 can go up to 138 (128 IP phones) and the BE3000 can go up to 300 users is this design restriction still valid or is the Catalyst 2960 and above the only options?
The QPT is still showing both the 300- and ESW500 switches as options for all versions of the UC560, and the 300- and 2960 switches are shown as valid options in the LAN for the BE3000.
Thanks.

Hi All,
I would agree with the folks at smartdesign, but for a very differerent reason as suggested by kmacpherson..
But think about the Business Edition 3000 (BE3000) and how it's supported. BE3000 is supported by the traditional Cisco TAC that also supports the catalyst 2960S etc....
The 300 series switch is supported by the wonder folk at the Small Business Support Center (SBSC) .
300 series of switches are generations ahead of the ESW switch in terms of switch silicon/features/GUI/supported CLI/IPv6 support etc..it is a tremendous switch series..
From my perspective, even though there is now a lot of dialogue between TAC and SBSC these days, it sorta makes a lot of sense in my mind to position Catalyst switches in conjunction with BE3000 for your end users, and 300 series small business switches as a lower cost alternative.
This will mean there will be pretty seamless TAC support for a BE3000, catalyst, ISRG2 solution.
regards Dave

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LMS 3.2 and Cisco Small Business Switches

Hi there,
I'm currently using LMS 3.2 to monitor my network. We've recently purchsed a few of the Cisco Small Business Switches, the SF 300-24 model to be exact. They're considered 'managed switches' (tho thier CLI is terrible) and I would like to monitor them in CWLMS. My problem is that once I add it to CS, it doesn't resolve to anything, just sits there as a blue box with a question mark. I'm assuming this means that these devices are not (currently) supported by LMS 3.2 - do you know if that will change, or how I can go about managing this device with LMS 3.2?
Thanks

Unfortunately that series of products is not supported in any version of LMS (or even Cisco Network Assistant - CNA).
Cisco provides the FindIt utility to manage them:
http://www.cisco.com/en/US/products/ps10660/tsd_products_support_series_home.html
Hope this helps.

Help blocking certain website and IP on a SG 300-20 Small Business Switch

Hi,
I like to block certain IP and website on the SG 300-20.
Being new to Cisco Small Business switch I she tried with no positive result. Could someone give me some steps or maybe direct me where I can find a step by step resource.
Thank you

Hello,
Thank you for contacting us for support with your device.
Unfortunately what you are trying to do is not possible with any Small Business switch.
It is true that this switch can be used in layer 3 and it will be able to route your traffic on the inside of the network, but it will not be able to route your traffic to the Internet as it doesn't do any NATting.
If you need to block any websites you will need to configure it on your router or firewall.
Just to be completely clear, this switch won't be able to block any websites.
I hope this was helpful

Small business switches and CDP

what switches in the small business category support CDP?
I took a look at the SGE and SFE series but nothing was mentioned about CDP support. I would like something lower grade than the ESW series if possible.

You may want to take a look at the Cisco Small Business 200 and the 300 Series switches, both switch lines now support CDP.

Small Business switches and POODLE

Has Cisco done any research into small business switches being vulnerable to POODLE? I know they're working hard on the enterprise side, but I'm not finding any information on the small business side.

Hi,
All Cisco product will be checked and results are posted on the same page as for enterprise:
http://tools.cisco.com/security/center/content/CiscoSecurityAdvisory/cisco-sa-20141015-poodle
Regards,
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Issues with Small Business Switch config

Hi, I know that if I read the documentation I will come to the answers but I would really like some input from someone with more knowledge than me. I have an issue with Cisco SF300 , one of the Small Business Switches. I have a single interface on my router and I need to separate my internal networks , I thought that one way would be to use VLANs. On my two internal networks one network only has unmanaged D-Link switches, the other has the Cisco SF300 so I did as follows.
On the Cisco Switch, all ports default to Trunk ports. I have changed FE1-FE24 and GE1-2 to access ports.
Created two VLANS and placed FE1-FE24 in VLAN10 (also my management VLAN) , GE3 is a trunk Port for VLAN20 untagged, VLAN 20 uplinks to my DiLink Switches. This way traffic from my unmanaged switches comes in on a trunk port untagged on VLAN20.
GE4 is a trunk port and I have assigned VLAN1 untagged, VLAN10 tagged and VLAN20 tagged. VLAN 10 and VLAN 20 then forward to my Router.
The plan was to connect GE4 to my router however I had two things happen I can not explain.
Firstly as soon as I connected my D-Link to GE3 the LAN on VLAN20 went down, I could not ping Servers from PCs etc, all devices are connected to the unmanaged D-Links. Secondly the VLAN Assigment changed on GE3 and GE4 , VLANs 10 and 20 disappeared and only the default VLAN was assigned, also under VLAN Settings my VLAN interface state for VLAN20 shows Disabled. Also one of my access ports FE12 keeps changing VLAN.
Can anyone offer any suggestions as to what might have crashed the LAN and why my VLANs change. I did write my running config to the start up config by the way.
I added two screen shots.
I would seriously appreciate some help.
Thanks
Bob

Hi Garrett, thanks for your reply to my post, I hope you are well. I called Cisco support, they told me that they could not understand why this was happening and suggested a firmware upgrade, usually something I should have considered right from the beginning. This solved the issue for me.
Thanks
Bob

SG200 Small business switch - vlan issue

I have the wonderous task of remotely configuring a few SG200 small business switches.
I need to create a vlan and move a few ports into that vlan, doesn't sound too difficult.
I have created the vlans but when I go to add the ports into the vlan the only option I seem to have is General?
If I specify access I can't say what vlan the port should be in?
What am I doing wrong?
All ports are currently in VLAN 1 and are in mode trunk
I have created 2 new vlans and just want to put 4 ports in VLAN 2 and 4 ports in VLAN 4
Can anyone impart any wisdom?
Thanks
Roger

Hi Roger,
Did you try this guide?
http://sbkb.cisco.com/CiscoSB/Loginr.aspx?login=1&pid=2&app=search&vw=1&articleid=80
Are you configuring it from GUI or CLI ?
Regards
Mariusz

IPhone 4S Battery Life: Best solutions and procedures for 1st time user: 1-Do you have a battery life issue (learn first what the usage time spec is about) 2-What can you try to remedy the situation without reading 500 pages of posts

What follows is a grouping of some of the most fruitful procedures - from what I've seen in the biggest battery life issue thread - and some background information and discussion for solving or improving the battery life with the iPhone 4S and may be applicable also to devices on which iOS 5.0/5.0.1 has been applied. Credit goes to the respective users who contributed this information to the forum and they should be commended for doing so. This is not a final listing. The goal here is to provide a first stop sort of knowledge base document for newcomers instead of having them perusing the never ending threads where the wheel is reinvented on every page...
Please don't post your questions, usage screenshots, or claims that it worked or not for you or anything here except PROCEDURES/DEBUG STEPS/SOLUTIONS or improvements to the procedures already listed here. Try to use point form and to be as concise and clear as possible. Hope all this helps.
Thank you and good luck!
General info and specs
First, take a look Apple's battery tips, info and specs(obligatory reading for all Iphone 4S users - read it once and for all):
http://www.apple.com/batteries/iphone.html
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
... you didn't read it? loll Always remember this i.e. the definition of "usage":
Usage: Amount of time iPhone has been awake and in use since the last full charge. The phone is awake when you’re on a call, using email, listening to music, browsing the web, or sending and receiving text messages, or during certain background tasks such as auto-checking email.
I'm still not convinced you read the links so here's what Apple has to say in terms of fine tuning your battery life:
Optimize your settings
Depending on how they are configured, a few features may decrease your iPhone battery life. For example, the frequency with which you retrieve email and the number of email accounts you auto-check can both affect battery life. The tips below apply to an iPhone running iOS 5.0 or later and may help extend your battery life.
Minimize use of location services: Applications that actively use location services such as Maps may reduce battery life. To disable location services, go to Settings > General > Location Services or use location services only when needed.
Turn off push notifications: Some applications from the App Store use the Apple Push Notification service to alert you of new data. Applications that extensively rely on push notifications (such as instant messaging applications) may impact battery life. To disable push notifications, go to Settings > Notifications and set Notifications to Off. Note that this does not prevent new data from being received when the application is opened. Also, the Notifications setting will not be visible if you do not have any applications installed that support push notifications.
Fetch new data less frequently: Applications such as Mail can be set to fetch data wirelessly at specific intervals. The more frequently email or other data is fetched, the quicker your battery may drain. To fetch new data manually, from the Home screen choose Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and tap Manually. To increase the fetch interval, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and tap Hourly. Note that this is a global setting and applies to all applications that do not support push services.
Turn off push mail: If you have a push mail account such as Yahoo! or Microsoft Exchange, turn off push when you don’t need it. Go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and set Push to Off. Messages sent to your push email accounts will now be received on your phone based on the global Fetch setting rather than as they arrive.
Auto-check fewer email accounts: You can save power by checking fewer email accounts. This can be accomplished by turning off an email account or by deleting it. To turn off an account, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars, choose an email account, and set Account to Off. To remove an account, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars, choose an email account, and tap Delete Account.
Turn off Wi-Fi: If you rarely use Wi-Fi, you can turn it off to save power. Go to Settings > Wi-Fi and set Wi-Fi to Off. Note that if you frequently use your iPhone to browse the web, battery life may be improved by using Wi-Fi instead of cellular data networks.
Turn off Bluetooth: If you rarely use a Bluetooth headset or car kit, you can turn off Bluetooth to save power. Go to Settings > General > Bluetooth and set Bluetooth to Off.
Use Airplane Mode in low- or no-coverage areas: Because your iPhone always tries to maintain a connection with the cellular network, it may use more power in low- or no-coverage areas. Turning on Airplane Mode can increase battery life in these situations; however, you will be unable to make or receive calls. To turn on Airplane Mode, go to Settings and set Airplane Mode to On.
Adjust brightness: Dimming the screen is another way to extend battery life. Go to Settings > Brightness and drag the slider to the left to lower the default screen brightness. In addition, turning on Auto-Brightness allows the screen to adjust its brightness based on current lighting conditions. Go to Settings > Brightness and set Auto-Brightness to On.
Turn off EQ: Applying an equalizer setting to song playback on your iPhone can decrease battery life. To turn EQ off, go to Settings > iPod > EQ and tap Off. Note that if you’ve added EQ to songs directly in iTunes, you’ll need to set EQ on iPhone to Flat in order to have the same effect as Off because iPhone keeps your iTunes settings intact. Go to Settings > iPod > EQ and tap Flat.
Usage specs for the 4S - http://www.apple.com/iphone/specs.html:
Talk time: Up to 8 hours (12.5% per hour drain) on 3G, up to 14 hours (7.1% per hour drain) on 2G (GSM)
Standby time: Up to 200 hours (0.5% per hour drain)
Internet use: Up to 6 hours on 3G (16.6% per hour drain), up to 9 hours (11.1% per hour drain) on Wi-Fi
Video playback: Up to 10 hours (10% per hour drain)
Audio playback: Up to 40 hours (2.5% per hour drain)
So a scenario of normal usage could be for example: 4 heavy hours of 3G internet browsing (66.4%), with one hour of call on 3G (12.5%) and 22 hours of standby (11%) = 100%
A battery life issue is a problem where the drain is really out of spec either during usage or standby or both. For example, multi-% per minute drain during usage or a 10% drain per hour during standby is problematic. Browsing the internet on 3G during one hour and losing 16-17% is not.
Apple's test methodology for claiming the specs:
http://www.apple.com/iphone/battery.html
Procedures
davidch tips (reset+full discharge recharge):
Go through these steps to address the battery after updating to iOS 5.0.1:
1. Reset all settings (settings app-> general-> reset)
2. Go through initial setup steps (lang, wifi, siri, enable location, etc) and choose setup as new phone (don't worry your apps, data, contacts, mail will still be there). Do NOT restore from iCloud or iTunes (It can copy back corrupt settings)
3. Turn off system location services timezone and iAd
4. Fully discharge battery (tilll it shuts off with the spinning wheel)
5. Fully recharge battery (overnight if possible)
In my experience this improves the Standby battery drain issue significantly in most cases. It reduces drain from 2-4% or more per hr to 0.5% or less. It has worked for many, many users now. If it does not work after a few try's you may have a real battery or hardware issue and should contact Apple. Good Luck!
ram130's variant of davidch i.e. additional steps:
Now using davidch original steps and attaching the tweaks I made to get me more usage. As shown on page 29.
Go through these steps to address the battery after updating to iOS 5.0.1:
1. Reset all settings (settings app-> general-> reset)
2. Go through initial setup steps (lang, wifi, siri, enable location, etc) and choose setup as new phone (don't worry your apps, data, contacts, mail will still be there). Do NOT restore from iCloud or iTunes (It can copy back corrupt settings)
3. Turn off system location services timezone and iAd
4. Fully discharge battery (till it shuts off with the spinning wheel)
5. Fully recharge battery (overnight if possible)
6. Disable Siri 'Raise To Speak' and REBOOT *( if possible use another camera to verify the                 infrared is off after the reboot).
7. Set emails, icloud and calendars to fetch. ** test. Mines on hourly.
8. If your in a no signal and your phone is saying "Searching..." even after 10mins, reboot while in that area and after 1-2min it should say "No Service". This mainly applies to Verizon customers and improve battery life in these areas.
9. *optional* Goto Settings > General > Network and you will see "Hotspot.." loading something, wait a few seconds and it should say "setup personal hotspot" then exit out.
* I notice a great improvement after disabling this and rebooting. This increased my "screen on" usage or at least helped it. Make the change.
** I have not tested push yet to narrow down the drain but I had this change on my phone. I believe exchange push is responsible for some stand by drain. As for icloud, haven't notice much of a difference. Just try it for a day. My email still came in fast most times. Again still testing, will report back on these..
buxbuster tips(wifi sync, iCloud):
These are my own tested workarounds that worked for my iPhone 4S and seemed to have worked for others as well :
Workaround number 1. Deselect wifi-sync in iTunes and press sync.
If that doesn't work try :
Workaround number 2 : Remove iCloud, reset network settings. ( I guess this won't work for you since you don't have it enabled ).
If both workarounds fail, you can always try to completely wipe your phone. That also solved some of the cases out there.
rolandomerida tips - i.e. buxbuster and additional steps:
Finally, I solved the syncing error loop. My contacts are syncing flawessly again between my devices and iCloud, and yes, the battery stopped draining, which is the main topic here.
I followed instructions from buxbuster (check his workaround a few pages up!) and an additional BIG step to restore contacts and syncing, as seen in a MacRumors forum.
This is what I did:
1. Make a backup of your Address Book, using the vCard option (or both, it doesn't hurt). Save it for later.
2. In your iPhone, delete iCloud account. When it asks, accept both: delete AND delete from my iPhone.
3. Reset network settings. The iPhone will restart, then will ask you to unlock the SIM card.
4.Turn Wi-Fi on.
5. Add the iCloud account again.
That's for Buxbuster's workaround. For some, it might work just like that. My iPhone repopulated from iCloud after step 5, but I still had that "server error" on iCloud. I had to do some extra steps, since my Mac was not syncing to iCloud and couldn't edit anything on my Mac or iCloud. Syncing back had to be fixed, too. If not, the syncing loop would continue from my iPhone, and the battery would drain awfully again.
1. In System Preferences -> iCloud, I turned Contacts off. I chose "keep on My Mac" those contacts, but I got an empty Address Book after a while. And a few minutes later, iCloud contacts were empty and my iPhone also. It is scary at first! Now, before importing that vCard backup...
2. Turn Wi-Fi off. This is important, since your contact-empty iCloud will attempt to wipe your Address Book from your Mac in seconds after importing.
3. Import your vCard backup to Address Book. Just drag it to your blank Address Book window; it asks if you want to import "x" number of cards. Of course, say yes.
4. Turn Wi-Fi on, and then iCloud contacts on again (System Preferences -> iCloud). It will offer to merge your newly populated Address Book with iCloud (which is empty at this point). It should upload every single contact to iCloud, and then to your iDevices. If not, a fifth step would be to import the vCard file to iCloud, but it shouldn't be necessary.
So, with iCloud syncing working correctly, there is no battery draining! Again, that was my particular issue.
I can't tell if this is the single answer to the widely spread battery draining problem, but it sure can be fixed with these workarounds, and yes, Apple should address the problem with a future update, for we affected customers don't need workarounds in the first place
This is the MacRumors discussion:
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1256807
And dont' forget to check buxbuster's fix, video, and THANK him!
Miless tips (full 800mb release of 5.0.1 and sanitizing a restore):
As for 4S battery life. Try doing this,
1. Settings>Location Service ... disable all location services you do not need. In particularly Facebook because it drains the battery a lot.
Scroll down to the bottom at Settings>Location services>System Services ... Disable Setting Time zone, location based iAds, Diagnostic & Usage.
2. Settings>Notification>Calendar ... turn off the Notification Centre.
3. Settings>General>Reset ... do Reset All Settings. Doing this will not wipe out your iPhone. It will just Reset the network settings, location warning, keyboard dictionary, etc... but it will clear up some corrupted data there. Generally this will help.
Try these 3 steps first... if it still drains a lot, try the following,
4. Drain your battery down to 1%. Then charge it up using USB from PC ... not the charger. The charger output 1.0 A ( x 5V from USB ... you get 5W power). From PC, output is only 0.5A x 5V = 2.5W power. Charging is slower but trickle charge 4S helps the battery retain its charge better. I think it takes about 3-3.5 hours to charge full from USB/PC compared to slightly below 2 hours using iPhone charger.
If after doing the above still could not solve your battery issues (mine with iOS 5.0 was ok up to step 4, but not iOS 5.0.1).... plug you iPhone to a charger (any charger), from iPhone, access your iCloud ... set it up if you havent. Back up your iPhone data to iCloud. if you do not have enough storage (only 5GB is free), go to details and select the apps you need its data backup, choose only those you really need and leave those unnecessary ones out. Back up your camera roll to your PC/Mac manually as it could be too big to backup to iCloud.... once you have it setup, make sure you are on Wifi ... tap backup to iCloud from your iPhone. It will take a while if the file is huge.
Once backup to iCloud is completed, plug your iPhone to PC/Mac and launch iTunes 10.5.1 (make sure you have 10.5.1)
Click Restore. It will automatically initiate a download of iOS 5.0.1 ipsw for iPhone 4S. Wait for the whole process to finish, ie. download, restore software/firmware.
Once its done, do not set up your iPhone from iTunes. Set it up on your iPhone. Go through the selection. When prompted, select restore from iCloud (from your iphone backup earlier). Keep your iphone plugged into iTunes while restoring backup from iCloud. Because while restoring from iClouds, some data will be synced from iTunes if you plug in, e.g. music, video, etc... unless you bought these content from iTunes store. Apps will be downloaded from App Store from the cloud.
Once it's all done restored. Turn off your iPhone,.. and turn it on again.
Now, hopefully your battery wont be draining so fast anymore. Usually it wont after this. But you need to charge your battery at least 4-5 cycles to stabilize the charge on the battery. I dont know why... but battery life seems to get better and better for me after a few charge cycles after all the above work.
Good luck. Let us know if it works for you.
W. Raider tips (Sirii):
Bottom line for me of things that helped battery life are:
1. Turing off Siri and Rebooting the phone by holding the Home button and Top button down, ignoring the slider, until the phone shut down. (turn off Siri, reboot, and check top front of iPhone 4S against a lesser camera like the front-facing camera on an iPad2 - making sure the IR sensor is off)
2. Fully draining the battery, meaning using the phone until it shuts itself off from a drained battery and then recharging it to 100% about 4, maybe 5 times. I charged it both with a Mac and a wall charger.
Hope this is helpful!
Comments
jmm514 remarks (Twitter):
I may have found something. I had Twitter disabled in my notifications, but got a tweet today that popped up on my home screen. Didn't know I had this enabled. At the bottom of the Twitter notification settings is the home scrren toggle. Since disabling this, battery life seems better. Considering there is no setting for frequency of checking for tweets, it appears the phone is continually connecting to wifi to check for new tweets.
tmksnyder comments (notifications, corrupt data in iCloud):
For me, I found my iphone on wifi mysteriously connecting to my mac. I eventually narrowed it down to the Apple Move Trailers app which keeps a file in iCloud. The phone was trying to sync the file with the mac in the background even when the Movie Trailers app was closed (hitting the red x). Based on my macosx logs the iCloud process that was trying to sync was working directly between the phone and the mac without using itunes by connecting to an https address hosted on the phone. It was connecting every 3 minutes and failing (while phone was awake or awake during during a notification). I also found that iCloud control panel on OSX would error if I tried to delete the file. I fixed it by removing the App and doing a hard reset which stopped the sync. I probably could have turned off iCloud document sync in the phone but didn't think of that. My battery life has greatly improved while at home on wifi.    I am now at 28 hrs standby, 2 hrs 20 minutes of usage, and 68% battery. It was ok before where I could get 20-30 hrs standby and 6 -8 hrs usage. My usage today was phone calls, 3g surfing, and music via bluetooth in the car.
I also found even with Itunes iMatch, if I mass updated tages, art work etc, it would hit the phone on wifi even in standby. I was amazed.   Granted if I am not doing updates, Match won't hot the phone so this was a once in awhile event. I could drop my percentage by 5-10% in a matter of minutes when doing updates.   I think a lot of our problems are background processes, associated with iCloud, notification, and apps. More features means more battery.   I think the key thing is to keep track of what has recently been added or changed if battery life gets worse all of a sudden.   It may be an app that was recently installed and if possible you may want to completely remove it and not just quit it.
With twitter, i think it uses push notifications so it doesn't need to be running and actively poll on the phone. For instance , if i quit the mail app, i still will get mail notifications and can swipe the message and load mail. Apple Push Notifications servics maintain the connection to the phone and there are likely pings or connection checks that occur for the service on an os level not an app level. This minimizes the load so there arent a bunch of apps all runing and constantly checking. The notification service , if it is contacted from twitter or another service with data, will check the settings you have registered to the with the apple push service and send the notification to your phone. No matter what, there is a drain with notifications. M hunch is once one application is configured to receive notifications, connection checking occurs betwen the push service and the phone so it knows where it is on the network. If it is implemented correctly, these checks arent frequent if you are still and more frequent as you move. The other drain is for when the noification hits and is processsed. If i get 9 emails over night, my screen just popped up for 20 seconds or so to process each message using battery. I would even think that just go from low power to turning n the screen uses more juice than if the device was already on and i get the message. On nights I get no notifications, I see a 3 or 4 percent drop. On nights with a number of notifications, i have seen up to a 10 percent drop. Besides notifications, wifi sync and icloud will poll on the local network and use up battery if the host computer is on and running itunes or trying to sync a data file that is corrupt (which i had with the apple movie trailers app causing my phone to drain). For me turning off wifi sync and remving a corrupt file in icloud solved my battery issues and I get over 24 hrs of standby with 6 to 9 hrs of use and this is with all the normal location services and push serivices turned on.
See http://developer.apple.com/library/mac/ipad/#documentation/NetworkingInternet/Co nceptual/RemoteNotificationsPG/ApplePushService/ApplePushService.html for more info. I think it has a good overview of how the notifications work.

Well seems like that rumor of iOS 5.0.1 is finally gone the way of the dogs since developers got a beta of 5.1. So as stated earlier in the master discussion-> I suspect if you are filling up this thread with false post or creating a master set of links to various post that are unreliable you are wasting your time. Press is not going to touch the story due to poor or inaccurate sources which may be links from the master thread. This can include inaccurate information, combination of conflicting post or postings from users which may not own the device. Reputable press organizations have policies that require discloser and strict rules about what is a reliable source for a story. It is clear that many of the post in the master thread, which are links presented here are questionable.
Sorry to say that postings taken without any analysis of their totality have been propagated via various sites, for example sites such as http://www.2012federalbudget(dot)com. (Do not visit but I suspect that this is not the 2012 federal-budget site you would expect based on analysis of the records. There are plenty of sites like http://www.2012federalbudget(dot)com propagating questionable post in these threads.) One site for example in the discussion thread used a self signed certificate, the site had a log in to allow users to enter their OpenID. Seems many of these sites are pop and drop drupel configurations.
So remember this is how the really bad rumor of iOS 5.0.2 got started, the 5.1 memory leak issue, iCloud Issues, call quality, address book, etc.
Some of the postings have been very comical, I think the latest now is a dropbox issue. Seems that the length of the previous thread has resulted in various app engines of some proxy servers/tools reaching their limits.
So I would make sure to know the source of any information you link to. Make sure you avoid entering any information to outside links such as OpenID or Apple ID, these are big prize items for anyone with malicious intent. If you have issues and are a valid user contact APPLE CARE. (Note link is using McAfee Secure Short URL Service, and is https.)
http://mcaf.ee/ricdt
The original solution still represents a high level of success for users having any battery issues.
Install 5.0.1 on your iPhone 4s. Some users posting they are still using older versions, bad fake serial numbers, etc.
Make sure your device can run iOS 5.0.1 and is not altered.
Make sure you use a new Sim, not some cut down version which many users admit to doing. (Again, worth confirming what people are posting.)
Reset the device doing a hard reset and software reset.
Let battery drain and then charge for the full cycle, which is 24 hours.
I think you will find you will get the battery usage that APPLE has stated for the device.
Best of luck, stay safe and thanks

Should I buy CC for small business or for an individual? I am a freelance graphic designer.

I am a graphic design but I work on my own. I just purchased CC for small business but now suddenly wonder if I should have purchased for an individual as I have no team.

Hi Aridne,
You can follow the discussion: Creative cloud team vs individual membership where the difference between both the plans are clearly mentioned.
You can choose the one which suits your needs the best.
Let us know if you still have any queries regarding the same.
Thanks,
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Small business licence for my team

Hi,
I got a 1 year prepaid licence for my small business and have downloaded the Creative Cloud desktop app and have downloaded the apps I need. They still say "Trial" though. What's happening here?
Also, I thought I got a team licence. How can I share the licence with my team?
Thanks.
Jodi

Under the Email here in forums, there is no CC for Team. If there is any other Email ID do let us know.
You can also log out & log back in of CC desktop app to activate the CC, Cloud-based creative software and services | Adobe Creative Cloud
Regards
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What is the X5000 mouse top small sliding switch for?

I just got an HP X5000 wireless mouse and it has a small sliding switch on top behind the wheel. What is this switch for please?
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Hi,
There are few guides/manuals on the following link, you can try yourself.
http://h20566.www2.hp.com/portal/site/hpsc/public/psi/manualsResults/?lang=en&cc=us&sp4ts.oid=516432...
Regards.
BH
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CCA for 100 + 300 series switches?

Is it in the roadmap to provide CCA control over 300 series switches? We have a lot of SRW2008's put in before the 8-port ESW existed...and we have PITA vlan consistency issues out there too that I think CCA would help fix.
While I understand the "don't pre-announce products", I need a level of design intent around CCA - is it a tool for configuring UC series pieces primarily and all else is secondary? Or is it the multi-device config tool for all SBCS pieces?

Nothing to do with the UC - primary concern is standalone networks.
Real life case:
2 ESW switches in control room hooked up to SA540
Closet switches are SRW2008's
Port no more than two devices are supposed to go now has 4, add an SRW2008 to the desk location.
Now, it turns out that there is a badly behaved device at the desk - a video player that spews all sorts of traffic when it's playing that doesn't play nice with others. So I now need to set-up a VLAN crossing those two switches. Oh, and it turns out the customer decided to unplug an access point and plug it into that switch too which ended up causing a loop when the PC plugged into ethernet someplace else attached to the PC.
Tasks:
Ensure that the 2 SRW2008's have proper vlan assignments to setup a port vlan for that video server.
Issues:
Make sure you assign proper configs to both ends of each link
Make sure not to confuse one SRW2008 with another
If new vlan, make sure all other ports that need to see it can still see it.
Applications for CCA:
Visualize all VLANS
Document port assignments (i.e. where is the video server vs. printer on that last leg 2008)
More easily see port statistics across multiple switches
So after I did that work, I realized that the SA540 wasn't really up to being an aggregation switch too and made the ESW-540-48 into the aggregation switch which required some more changes - however CCA made it easy...
At another job, I have SA540 + AP541ns (upgraded from RVL200 + WAP54GP's) but if I had 300 series in CCA, I'd upgrade the SRW2024's and SRW2008's but without easy management tools, the labor cost will be too high to make their networks really managed.....CCA makes that layer of management cheaper.

No Free/Busy Information for Exchange 2010 users in Outlook 2010 client, 2010 OWA shows this information fine

I have looked for hours and hours on Google and this web site for this type of issue and nothing seems to help.
Problem:
On my new Windows 2008 R2 /Exchange 2010 server with IIS7 installed, I can use Outlook 2010 client to login and send and receive e-mail but when I try to busy search internal Exchange users I get no information (cross-hatch), but the sender of the Meeting Request
can see their own free/busy information fine. And OWA users can see free/busy information fine, as can Outlook 2003 client users against this Exchange 2010 server when logged in.
I don't know if I have a certificate problem with regard to IIS7 or Exchange 2010, I did not create my own certificate , it is just what was installed by default when I installed and configured Win2K8 server, IIS7 and Exchange.
On the Windows 7 workstations with Outlook 2010 client, I am not logging into the Exchange 2010 server DNS domain, if that makes any difference. On these workstations I can ping "autodiscover.my.exchange.server.com" and my.exchange.server.com
with no problem. I even used this Microsoft KB to install a new _autodiscover dns entry, but it did not help :
When I turn on logging on my Outlook 2010 client, I see this in my C:\Users\Administrator\AppData\Local\Temp\1\outlook logging\20131208-135658864-fb.log :
2013/12/08 13:56:58.864: Getting ASURL
2013/12/08 13:56:58.864: URL returned from cached autodiscover: blah blah
2013/12/08 13:56:58.864: Request to URL:
2013/12/08 13:56:58.864: Request action:
2013/12/08 13:56:58.864: Request XML: <?xml version="1.0"?>
2013/12/08 13:56:59.051: Request sent
2013/12/08 13:56:59.051: Response error code: 00000000
2013/12/08 13:56:59.051: HTTP status code: 0
2013/12/08 13:56:59.051: -------------------------------
2013/12/08 13:56:59.051: There is an error in request/response.
2013/12/08 13:56:59.051: XML response:
2013/12/08 13:56:59.051: -------------------------------
2013/12/08 13:56:59.051: Getting ASURL
2013/12/08 13:56:59.644: Failed to get ASURL. Error 8004010F
At an Exchange shell console I enter this command and get these results :
Exchnage Management Shell :
VERBOSE: Connecting to BPExchange2010.my.exchange.server.com
VERBOSE: Connected to BPExchange2010.my.exchange.server.com.
[PS] C:\Windows\system32>Test-OutlookWebServices -id:[email protected] -TargetAddress:[email protected]
ll.com
RunspaceId : c929eacd-d53c-49d7-8532-c4b74e61b8be
Id : 1019
Type : Information
Message : A valid Autodiscover service connection point was found. The Autodiscover URL on this object is
Type : Success
Message : [Server] Successfully contacted the UM service at https://bpexchange2010.my.exchange.server.com/ews/exchan
ge.asmx. The elapsed time was 234 milliseconds.
[PS] C:\Windows\system32>
** Also frequently when I log into Outlook 2010 client and start to send a meeting request , I get the Security Alert dialog :
autodiscover.my.exchange.server.com
Information you exchange with this site cannot be viewed or changed by others. However, there is a problem with the site's security certificate.
Green Check Mark : The security cerficate is from a trusted certifying authority
Green Check Mark: The security certificate date is valid
Red X : The name on the security certificate is invalid or does not match the name of the site.
Do you want to proceed ? . I either import the certificate or click YES, but does not help this issue.
NOTE: Each user that shows as NO INFORMATION cross-hatch, these users have appointments and have logged into outlook before.
When I do this autodiscover url from a Windows 7 pc with outlook 2010 I get :
This XML file does not appear to have any style information associated with it. The document tree is shown below.
<Autodiscover xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/exchange/autodiscover/responseschema/2006">
<Response>
<Error Time="14:47:01.5656198" Id="401440650">
<ErrorCode>600</ErrorCode>
<Message>Invalid Request</Message>
<DebugData/>
</Error>
</Response>
</Autodiscover>
Can anyone assist ? What am I missing ?
Thank You
NOTE: When will this go away. I had to strip out a lot of helpful information to post this. "Body text cannot contain images or links until we are able to verify your account."

Hi,
How many users encounter this issue, all users with Outlook 2010 or some specific users?
According to your post, the Error code 600 indicates that your Autodiscover service is working well. as for the certificate mismatch issue, we can also following the KB below to resolve it:
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/940726/en-us
The Free/Busy information in Exchange 2010 is using the Availability service to
retrieve it. Please directly access
https://mail.mydomain.ae/EWS/Exchange.asmx in IE and see whether a proper XML file is returned.
Or we can go to
https://testexchangeconnectivity.com and check MS Exchange Web Services Connectivity Tests.
Thanks,
Winnie Liang
TechNet Community Support

Is Vodafone UK going to stock the Blackberry Passport for pay monthly upgrades? not just for business but for personal/regular users?

Hi
I was just wondering if there was any news about the Blackberry Passport being available to regular/personal contract holders on Vodafone UK.
I have seen it mentioned that it will be stocked for business users but theres no news about anyone else.
Please could someone give me a definitive answer as i would like to upgrade my Z10 for the Passport

Hi @guyveric
I'd recommend contacting Vodafone UK to express interest! In the interim, make sure you bookmark the Official Pricing and Availability for BlackBerry Passport post found on Inside BlackBerry. Thanks!
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For ADVC 300 Users

I have read through everything I could find on this board as well as Grass Valley boards but wanted to confirm the setup of the ADVC 300 prior to starting the conversion process. I will be converting VHS tapes to DV. I would like to control the ADVC 300 Video/Audio adjustments via the PC and have set the switch (SW1 No 8) to "PC" and will be using the Picture Controller 300 software. Do I also have to change the Video Audio Adjust Mode switch (SW2 No 1) to "Adjust" or is this for manual adjustment via the unit only?
Concerning the Picture Controller 300 software: Do I need to have an external monitor to view the tapes to make the Video/Audio adjustments prior to capturing in PP or can I use the capture utility in PP to view and still adjust with the 300 software? I guess I'm just a little confused in the proper method of using the 300 software in conjunction with PP's capture utility.
Thanks Greg

At least with all of the VHS decks that I have used (have a Panasonic DVR w/ VHS now), there is no control over the VHS deck - it is one-way and that is the signal. I use the deck's remote, and the Capture module on the computer, so I have my mouse in my right hand, and the remote in my left. I click the mouse to begin Capture, and then the remote for Play on the deck, a moment later. There will be a few Frames (those get fewer, with practice) of black at the beginning of the Captured Clip, but those are easily Trimmed in PrPro, or PrE. I happen to have PrPro only on the workstation, and use it mostly. PrE is only on my laptop, along with PrPro.
With the VHS deck, one only has the composite cables out - no input control. This is unlike doing a Capture with a certified miniDV tape camera, which is connected via FW (two-way communication), where one CAN control the camera.
Good luck,
Hunt

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