Best upgrades for MacBook Pro Late 2011

Hello, searching in the community, only brings me to posts that are from 2012, as newer tech is available, I would like to renew the question and hopefully get some updated comments and suggestions.
I own a MacBook Pro 15 late 2011 (2,2GHz Intel Core i7, 4GB 1333 MHz DDR3, matte retina display, Intel HD Graphics 3000 384 MB, OS X 10.9.5 13F34).
I would like to upgrade to Mavericks and while I'm at it, I'll upgrade the hardware as well (HD and RAM).
I'm a photographer, and I noticed that Lightroom and PS are running slower as I upgraded through the OSs, this is the main reason for my need to upgrade, I would like more speed overall. There are so many choices of SSDs and RAMs on the net, I would love to get some good feedback from this post and maybe boil this down to three upgrade possibilities:
1 The BEST (meaning the top of the line and probably most expensive)
2 The MID (good compromise between price and performance)
3 The CHEAP (the least expensive choice to make the computer increase performance)
I really appreciate all the help I can get from the Community.
Marco Benvenuto
P.S.
If by any chance I missed a post that already answered my question, please link it to this one ;-)

I just bought the Crucial M550 CT512M550SSD1!!! Thank you so much for your help
If I could still pick your brain with another question...
I also have a Mac Pro 2 x 2,26 GHz Quad-Core Intel Xeon, 6 GB 1066 MHz DDR3 ECC, NVIDIA GeForce GT 120 512 MB, OS X 10.9.5 (13F34)
Since there are fast PCI slots available, I was looking to put an SSD in there, but I noticed that the price difference is substantially higher.
I wont need more than 240/256 GB for the MacPro, since I have 2 2TB HDs and some others in there.
My question is: is the performance of the PCI SSDs compared to the regular SDD worth the up-upgrade?
Or should I just get another Crucial M550 (256GB) and put it in the second DVD bay?
I'm thinking to put the RAM on hold for both computers for now, but I probably will get Crucial for both a.s.a.p.

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Best monitor for MacBook Pro (Late 2012)

After searching Apple's knowledge base (reference: Using 4K displays and Ultra HD TVs with Mac computers - Apple Support), it appears that MacBook Pro (Late 2012 model) does not support 4K monitors, correct?
If this is the case, what's the best monitor (resolution and pricepoint) I can get for this model? Should I just try to find an old refurbished 27" Thunderbolt Display?
My MBPr runs a 2.9Ghz Intel Core i7 w/8GB RAM and OS X v10.9.5.
Thanks,
Nicholas

A Dell ultra Sharp would be a good buy. Depending on what size you want:
http://www.amazon.com/Dell-UltraSharp-27-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B00P0EQD1Q
Otherwise, if you don't mind spending the money, and not worried about not using the monitor to its fullest this BENQ is an excellent monitor
http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-BL3201PH-Monitor-32-Inch-LED-Lit/dp/B00O1B5M9I/ref=sr _1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1424384286&sr=1-11&keywords=4k+monitors

Best portable hard drive for MacBook Pro late 2011

Looking for a portable hard drive, 1TB USB 2.0 I think. I googled the model details below and it said it had USB 2.0
EtreCheck version: 1.9.12 (48)
Report generated 2 August 2014 10:06:17 BST
Hardware Information:
MacBook Pro (13-inch, Late 2011) (Verified)
MacBook Pro - model: MacBookPro8,1
1 2.4 GHz Intel Core i5 CPU: 2 cores
4 GB RAM
Have never backed up before and not too bothered about it being super fast. Would like to get one for under £50. Tried looking myself but getting very confused, USB, FireWire ????
Can anyone help?

USB 3 hard drives will work with your MacBook but only at USB 2 speeds. FireWire 800 is your best option for fast data transfers at this point, unless you want to get a new computer.
Best of luck.

SSD for macbook pro late 2011

Hello,
I need some help about SSD drives. I have read a lot but I don't understand much and decided to ask someone know better than me. My Macbook Pro is late 2011 i5 8gb ram and want to change its hard drive with SSD 256gb. I need advice about brands. For example is this okay 256GB Ultra Plus SATA 3.0 SSD? Or which SSD should I prefer?
Thanks a lot.
Selim Cavusoglu

Hey Selim,
I've installed many different brands of SSD's as well as different tier options for the same brand of SSD. In my experience, regardless of the brand the boot time will be right there next to each other between the 13-16 seconds range. Now if you want the best bang for your buck the simplest answer is go to amazon and buy a samsung 840 pro or samsung 840 evo. The performance is very similar and the price of the pro is a little higher since it will last longer due to it being a MLC SSD vs the EVO which is a TLC SSD. So if that answered your question there you go keep reading if you want:)
Between the two, i picked a used (by amazons standards, it had just had damage to the packaging) 840 EVO and it was about the same price as what you have shown an example. Now, buying used from amazon is hit or miss, so i recommend spending the extra $10-$20 for peace of mind. There is also cheaper options, but samsung seems to have the BEST track record with reliability AND performance. Keep in mind the 50MB differences in read speeds you see on benchmarks actually aren't very noticeable in launching apps.
Hope I've helped, If you would prefer a different option from the recommended samsung 840 evo let me know and ill gladly give a few more options.
-Noahwhite2014

Compatible Monitor for MacBook Pro late 2011

Hello, I would like to purchase a monitor to use with my MacBook Pro "Core i7" 2.2 15" Late 2011
I found some cheap models from Dell but I'm not exactly sure what specs to look for in order to have a fully compatible monitor.
Could you eventually help me?
Thank you in advance
MacBook Pro's Technical Specs (from http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i7-2.2- 15-late-2011-unibody-thunderbolt-specs.html)
Connectivity includes AirPort Extreme (802.11a/b/g/n), Bluetooth 2.1+EDR, Gigabit Ethernet, a Firewire "800" port, two USB 2.0 ports, separate audio in and out ports, an SDXC card slot, and a "Thunderbolt" port that is backwards compatible with Mini DisplayPort and, likewise, supports an external display at 2560x1600 and passes an audio signal. Thunderbolt also supports other peripherals that use the Thunderbolt standard which provides up to 10 Gbps of bandwidth in both directions.

I've never seen a monitor that requires drivers to be installed. Maybe that's why you can't find any. All, at least that I know of will work with any computer. But I may just not be aware of any that won't/don't work with your Macbook Pro.

Second graphics card (Nvidia) for Macbook Pro (late 2011)?

Hi,
I have a late 2011 17-inch Macbook Pro, and want to know whether it's possible to fit a second graphics card in there - and if so, where I could find a list of compatible cards.
What I am really aiming for is an Nvidia card with CUDA, since there are various applications I want to use that require CUDA.
If it's not possible to fit a second CUDA card in there, is it possible to replace the current card (AMD Radeon HD 6770M 1024 MB) with an Nvidia one?
Thanks,
S

Thanks for such a quick response, albeit not the one I was hoping to hear!

Best SSD for Macbook Pro Early 2011?

It seems the top two contenders are Samsung 840 Pro and Crucial M500. From a real world perspective, would I even notice the difference between the two as far a speed goes (or any other ones for that matter). i guess I am just curious if anyone has found other SSD drives that work nicely with the macbook pro, with or without trim enabled. I know the 840 EVO has issues for whatever reason. What about the Seagate 600 which does not use Sandforce or Marvell, or other Marvell drives like Sandisk Extreme II or Plextor M5 pro xtreme?
Also, if you could had how long they have lasted and comment on whether there has been any degradation in quality, that would be helpful as well. Things such as temperature and battery life would be helpful as well. Most review sites are so focused on Windows, it makes it hard to know.
I've already upgraded my RAM with the Crucial 16gb package and that is working well, and I am just looking to do the one other upgrade that will make this laptop viable for a few more years.

JasonB824,
I went with the Samsung 840 PRO (with TRIM enabled) for my Mid 2010 MacBook Pro. I haven’t had it for very long, and it’s nowhere near full, so I can’t comment on its long term behavior. I haven’t observed any quality degradation yet, and it does come with a five-year warranty, so it should last a while. I almost always run my MacBook Pro plugged in, so I can’t comment on differences in battery duration between charges. (Hmmm, why did I reply? ) My MacBook Pro only supports SATA II, but since yours supports SATA III, you should see the full performance characteristics of whichever SATA III SSD you choose. Unless you’re engaged in heavy-duty disk-bound use, you’ll be unlikely to notice speed differences between your top contenders.

16GB HYNIX for my MacBook Pro late 2011

It is taking me so long to find a 16GB memory by hynix (8X2) to install in my Macbook Pro late 2011 . 2.4 GHz Intel Core i7 . 1333MHz DDR3 .
Need a to upgrade and i think that i need a 204PINN SODIMM
DDR#-PC3-10600 .cl9 Unbeffered.NON - ECC 1.35V.1024MegX64.
Please correct me if I am wrong . And if you can assist me where to get it Or maybe SAMSUNG Memory .,Either one is Good but do not Prefere ather kinds.
Best regards to all.
Sam

I actually prefer Crucial - I have the same model as you, but I've 16GB of Corsair in my machine. Had I to do it over again, I'd buy Crucial (particulary now that the prices have come down).
Go to the Crucial website and use the System Scanner tab - it will let you know your upgrade options. Your machine, like mine, uses 204-pin PC-10600 (1333 MHz) DDR3 SO-DIMMs. I don't know a thing about Hynix, but Samsung is good as well - I just prefer dealing with Mac specialists.
Clinton

After upgrading to yosemite my macbook pro late 2011 does a random sound from time to time.

After upgrading to yosemite my macbook pro late 2011 does a random sound from time to time. Its completely random and i already checked all apps in use and its not from them.

Sounds like Notifications app.
Maybe some other app. In SystemPreferences->Users&Groups->LoginItems tab: remove all entries with the minus sign underneath. This will not uninstall anything, you have to start those apps by hand now. Restart.
Still there?
Yes: Restart again while holding the shift key, this will start the mac in SafeMode: only the necessary items are loaded to run.
Still there?
Yes: Make an etrecheck list and post it here.
No: Restart, put the items in the LoginItems back, one by one, restart after each entry, and you will find the "culprit"
Please report accordingly. I will be back in 24 hours.

How do i use my imac 21.5" 2011 as a display for my macbook pro late 2011, through thunderbolt cable ? I have tried and it doesnt seem to work, neither does target disk mode.

How do i use my imac 21.5" 2011 as a display for my macbook pro late 2011, through thunderbolt cable ? I have tried and it doesnt seem to work, neither does target disk mode.
Could it be a borked cable ? I just bought it new from the store today, i have updated both imac and macbook pro to latest thunderbolt firmware and updates. Both 10.7.3.
MacBook Pro:
Vendor Name:    Apple, Inc.
Device Name:    MacBook Pro
UID:    0x0001000A17016E60
Firmware Version:    22,1
Port:
Status:    No devices connected
Link Status:    7
Port Micro Firmware Version:    FFFF.FF.FF

You are correct, here is what Apple Says:
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3775
I was able to find these instructions, however they referr to 2009-2011 27" iMacs. I think it's the same, if it's not then contact Apple directly for instructions. If either of the machines is less than 90 days old or covered by AppleCare then call AppleCare tomorrow for help, they should be able to easily answer this for you. You will find the number in your manual or you can use the AppleCare Contact Info link.
Your iMac should automatically recognize the presence of a digital video signal at the Mini DisplayPort and enter Target Display Mode.
If your iMac does not automatically enter Target Display Mode, press command + F2 to manually enter Target Display Mode.

I have a Lexmark X1185, but I do not have the driver CD that came along with it. I have a 15" MacBook Pro (Late 2011) and I cannot seem to find drivers for OSX Lion.. Where can I find the drivers?

I have a Lexmark X1185, but I do not have the driver CD that came along with it. I have a 15" MacBook Pro (Late 2011) and I cannot seem to find drivers for OSX Lion.. Where can I find the drivers? Thank you for the help!

Have you looked on Lexmark's support site?
http://support.lexmark.com/index?page=content&id=OS23&locale=en&userlocale=EN_US

How do I upgrade to Mavericks from Lion with a Macbook Pro late 2011?

How do I upgrade to Mavericks from Lion with a Macbook Pro late 2011?

Mavericks is no longer available from the App Store.
If you meet the Mavericks requirements then you can install Yosemite at no charge.

Macbook pro late 2011 starting problem

I'm running OS Maverics 10.9.3 version on Macbook pro late 2011. Few days ago the OS got much slower than normal system. Then i installed the the new OS but it was good for few hours. Then after few hours it became slower again. Then I changed the HDD and installed the new OS. But I found the same problem again. Then I removed all backup files from the HDD. After removing all items it became to work normally. But after 15/17 days later when i'm trying to turn on the macbook a flashing folder icon appears then i pull down the display for a while. When the lights gone then i turn on again and it works normally. I tried the internet recovery option by pressing the (ctrl+R) button but it takes much time. But nothing happened. What is the problem?
Here is my etrecheck result:
EtreCheck version: 1.9.12 (48)
Report generated July 3, 2014 at 2:17:37 AM GMT+6
Hardware Information:
MacBook Pro (13-inch, Late 2011) (Verified)
MacBook Pro - model: MacBookPro8,1
1 2.4 GHz Intel Core i5 CPU: 2 cores
4 GB RAM
Video Information:
Intel HD Graphics 3000 - VRAM: 384 MB
Color LCD 1280 x 800
System Software:
OS X 10.9.3 (13D65) - Uptime: 0 days 0:30:14
Disk Information:
TOSHIBA MQ01ABD050 disk0 : (500.11 GB)
EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted>: 209.7 MB
Mac HDD (disk0s2) / [Startup]: 499.76 GB (373.05 GB free)
MATSHITADVD-R   UJ-8A8
USB Information:
Apple Inc. FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in)
Apple Inc. Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad
Apple Inc. BRCM2070 Hub
Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
Thunderbolt Information:
Apple Inc. thunderbolt_bus
Configuration files:
/etc/hosts - Count: 20
Gatekeeper:
Anywhere
Kernel Extensions:
[not loaded] com.gct.driver.gdmuwm (1.0.8 - SDK 10.4) Support
Problem System Launch Daemons:
[failed] com.apple.wdhelper.plist
[running] com.gct.dts.gdme2dn.plist Support
Launch Daemons:
[loaded] com.adobe.fpsaud.plist Support
[loaded] com.microsoft.office.licensing.helper.plist Support
Launch Agents:
[not loaded] com.adobe.AAM.Updater-1.0.plist Support
User Launch Agents:
[loaded] com.google.keystone.agent.plist Support
[running] com.moeppfdpoohhdcaefbfpmabjipnohiif.updater.plist Support
User Login Items:
iTunesHelper
Internet Plug-ins:
Flip4Mac WMV Plugin: Version: 3.2.0.16   - SDK 10.8 Support
FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 14.0.0.125 - SDK 10.6 Support
QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3
Flash Player: Version: 14.0.0.125 - SDK 10.6 Support
AdobePDFViewer: Version: 10.0.0 Support
AdobeAAMDetect: Version: AdobeAAMDetect 1.0.0.0 - SDK 10.6 Support
Default Browser: Version: 537 - SDK 10.9
SharePointBrowserPlugin: Version: 14.3.9 - SDK 10.6 Support
Silverlight: Version: 5.1.30317.0 - SDK 10.6 Support
Safari Extensions:
Best YouTube Downloader: Version: 1.5.1
Audio Plug-ins:
BluetoothAudioPlugIn: Version: 1.0 - SDK 10.9
AirPlay: Version: 2.0 - SDK 10.9
AppleAVBAudio: Version: 203.2 - SDK 10.9
iSightAudio: Version: 7.7.3 - SDK 10.9
iTunes Plug-ins:
Quartz Composer Visualizer: Version: 1.4 - SDK 10.9
User Internet Plug-ins:
Picasa: Version: 1.0 - SDK 10.4 Support
3rd Party Preference Panes:
Flash Player Support
Flip4Mac WMV Support
Perian Support
Tuxera NTFS Support
Time Machine:
Time Machine not configured!
Top Processes by CPU:
      3% WindowServer
      1% storeagent
      1% softwareupdated
      1% fontd
      0% syslogd
Top Processes by Memory:
114 MB com.apple.WebKit.WebContent
82 MB Safari
49 MB com.apple.IconServicesAgent
41 MB ocspd
33 MB WindowServer
Virtual Memory Information:
1.82 GB Free RAM
895 MB Active RAM
275 MB Inactive RAM
908 MB Wired RAM
437 MB Page-ins
2 MB Page-outs

Try this:
Boot into recovery (OPTION key down) and select the recovery partition.
From the 4 option menu select Disk Utility.
Run Disk Utility>First Aid, Verify and Repair.
If it says the disk cannot be repaired, replace it with a new HDD.
If it says it is good, take out the disk, place it in an enclosure and connect it to the MBP via USB.
If it boots the MBP, then the internal SATA cable is faulty and should be replaced.
Ciao.

Photoshop CC 2014 extremely slow after fresh intallation on MacBook Pro Late 2011, i7 8 GB RAM, Photoshop CS 5.1 performance OK

Hi there,
I just installed Adobe Photoshop CC 2014 on my MacBook Pro Late 2011 with 8 GB RAM after already having installed CS 5.1 on my MacBook.
So I have both installed at the same time.
But: CS 5.1 is much faster! The first time opening CC 2014 was really shocking, because it was so laggy and still is, and I don't know why this is.
I didn't do any weird performance settings, neither did I change anything else. I open a document in CC 2014 and it takes nearly double the time
compared to opening the same document in CS 5.1.
And with CS 5.1 running the app Memory Clean tells me that i have 1.5 GB of free memory, with CC 2014 running my memory is completely in use.
Are there any tipps/tricks/issues with having both installed at the same time? Am I missing something that is leading to that specific performance
issue?
I would be glad if someone could help me, because otherwise I have to say that upgrading to CC 2014 and buying the CC license for one year
didn't turn out to be a good thing.
Thanks!

Nothing here?
The MacBook now has 16 GB RAM, but not much change. Photoshop CS 5.1 performance is great after splitting the PSD into 3 different ones, Photoshop CC 2014 still much slower.
Does anyone experience the same problems, especially with many groups / layers / smart objects?
And is it possible to get back the money for purchasing the yearly CC license when I'm not satisfied with the product?
Thank you.

What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

Best upgrades for MacBook Pro Late 2011

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