Best way to power down modem and router

At the start of this year I had a steady 63Mbps. By July it had fallen to 50Mbps due to a series of power cuts, Hub auto resets and a BT service failure over a weekend.
Since then it has risen slowly back to 59Mbp as the system sees a steady line.
I need to do some work in the house and will need to switch off the power to the sockets for a few hours.
Is there a preferred sequence to powering off the hub and modem ( ie.one before the other or together) and then bringing them back on-line to avoid the system thinking I have an unsteady line and drop my speed again.

Have a look at this link
http://bt.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/36956/c/346

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How do I set up Airport Extreme with cable modem and router?

Hi--
I'm having a house built and all of the wiring for TV, phone, and internet will be centralized in a closet. The cable modem can be placed there as well. In one room in the basement I want to use my Airport Extreme for my iMac and USB external hard drives. In another location of the basement, I'd like to set up a Time Capsule for another desktop and USB printer. If the cat5e comes out of the wall at each location, I "think" I need a router at the closet location. I also thought I might need an Airport Express upstairs on first or second floor to boost signal for my laptop. The house isn't that big so maybe that's overkill. So beyond the router question, do I want to set up a roaming network and have the Airport Express connected via ethernet or just wireless if the thought is that I need this? Finally, if I should connect cable modem to router to Airport Extreme, Time Capsule, etc., in what order and ports does the equipment get connected? Many thanks!!

Welcome to the discussions, Forum Girl!
It would be best to position the cable modem and main router in the central location like the closet if possible. The other devices would connect via ethernet to the wall jacks in each room.
If you could setup a "roaming" wireless network as you mention, this will give you better wireless performance and coverage. This is the way commercial establishments like airports, businesses, etc. are configured for wireless.
The order of connection would go something like this: ethernet connection > cable modem >main router>devices. Devices could be computers, routers, a backup device, etc. Since the Extreme has only 3 LAN ports for ethernet connections, you will also need to plan to install an "ethernet switch" near the location of the main router to provide enough ethernet jacks. If you are planning to use DirectTV, etc or your audio/video devices require ethernet connections (most new products do for updates and extra features), be sure to plan for that as well.
Make sure that CAT5e or CAT6 wiring is run so you will be able to take advantage of faster gigabit speeds.
Finally, it would be a good idea to work with an IT specialist to go over your plans to make sure all the bases are covered. This would be money well spent.

New to FiOS, can I use my own modem and router

I saw several questions similar to mine, but none that I saw answered my question for my scenario. I am sorry if this is a duplicate. I am new to FiOS. I have no other services from Verizon and do not plan to get any. No phone, no television, nothing. Just Internet. God willing, the installation will take place in two days. My house already has coaxial cabling. I have my own cable modem, a SURFboard SB6121, which goes to my router, a TP Link TL-WR941ND. None of my equipment advertises that it is FiOS compatible. I've seen other people asking about using their own modem and router, but in those cases the scenario involved other bundled services, and I understand a FiOS router is necessary to forward ports to television, phone, and computers. However, in my very simple scenario, can the Verizon optical network terminal simply feed its output to my coax, from there to my modem, then router, then comptuers? Is there any reason that wouldn't work? Verizon technical support just gave me a machine that wanted to help me troubleshoot my Internet connection, and I couldn't get from there to a human. Thanks in advance for the help!

Banish the word and the device called "modem" from your home when using FiOS. FiOS does not use modems. Your cable modem is useless with FiOS. Do not plug it in. FiOS uses routers. The router connects to the ONT's WAN port using MoCA (coax) or Ethernet. The installer will enable one of the ONT's WAN ports. If you order 150Mbps or higher speeds, they will have to use Ethernet. For slower speeds, coax is the default. Many installers will use Ethernet if you ask nicely, but usually only if it isn't too much work. Make sure it's easy to connect a router to the ONT using Ethernet, and you should be okay. If Ethernet needs to be run through the walls, your best choice is get it done ahead of time. You can always call later and get the ONT's WAN port switched. The only routers available with a MoCA WAN port are the Verizon models. The Verizon routers are good devices for most users. People who like to tweak their networking gear don't like them as many advanced features are limited or locked down. You can't run any other router firmware on them. WiFi range is decent, but not great. I'm quite happy with my Quantum router. YMMV. If you get Ethernet WAN enabled, you can use any router you want. However, know that Verizon provides zero support for any other router. They won't even mention it as an option. That doesn't mean you can't use one, simply that you must do so without Verizon's help. There are reports that they won't even complete an install without one of their routers to verify service. If you don't use one of their routers, consider renting one for a month to complete the install or even buying a used one. If you own a Verizon router, you can install it if you ever suspect Verizon networking issues. This will allow you to call their support. This FAQ is very helpful:http://www.dslreports.com/faq/16077 Good Luck.

Location of Infinity modem and router

I would like to change my broadband to Infinity but need to know a few things before doing so. The main OpenReach socket (the one with a removable lower section) is above the front door fanlight. From this box I have two wires (extensions) coming out from behind (nothing is plugged into the front), one, about 3-4 metres in length goes straight through the ceiling into the above bedroom to the router (Voyager 2500V). The other one goes to the sitting room and is a longer cable. I have also done away with the ‘bell wire’ so only two wires exist in both connections.
I would like to locate the new modem and router in the bedroom where it is at the moment. There is no way I can use a 13 amp socket in the hallway and have the equipment there. My questions are:
1. Will the current location of my router be alright for Infinity?
2. How many Ethernet ports does the Infinity router have?
3. Does the router have VOIP like my Voyager?
4. If Infinity misbehaves, is it just a matter of unplugging the modem and router and plugging in my old Voyager?
No guesses please, I need to know exactly before going ahead with Infinity.
Thank you.

Jonny
Thank you for your reply. I don’t want to sign up and ask an engineer when he arrives, I want to know before signing up.
Also, I’m not familiar with your terms, e.g. terminated phone cable, but I won’t ask you to explain them. To me there are three types of cable, a two-wire cable that runs from the master socket to a wall point, a telephone cable that plugs into a wall socket and an Ethernet cable that runs from the computer to the router. Are other types utilised by Infinity?
Further explanation of my wiring:
The wire from the rear of the master plug terminates as an extension in the bedroom where the micro filter and router plug in. It’s not used for a telephone, just the router. Can’t the new modem plug into this? Power points are not a problem in the bedroom.
I installed the cable about two years ago after acquiring a new type main box (the previous on worked but I was told this was better), at the same time I used just two of the 4 or 6 wires in both my extensions. The previous 40 year-old extension ran all around the hall skirting board, up the side of the stairs, around the landing to a bedroom. It had been painted many times and was almost brittle, that’s why I decided to go through the ceiling, under the floor boards and up to make a socket on the skirting board. It’s only a few metres long and I can easily take the carpet up, remove a floorboard and change the extension wire to any other kind of wire, e.g. an Ethernet cable.

Unable to connect after modem and router restart

Hi Everybody
Some times i don't get any internet connection from my cable modem (Motorola 5100 surfboard). In such cases, Time Warner cable recommends restarting the modem. I am connected to the internet in the following sequence:
Cable Modem --> Router --> PC
The way it should work:
Switch off the router
Switch off the cable modem
Restart the cable modem (all the lights should be on)
Restart the router
Connected to the Internet!
However, things don't work this way. If I connect the PC to the cable modem directly after the modem restart, I am able to get online
If I try to connect with the router in the middle, I get no connection. Usually, I have to follow this sequence (instead of the one above):
Switch off the cable modem
Re-set the Linksys router (loose all my settings)
Switch off the router
Restart the cable modem (all the lights should be on)
Restart the router
Connected to the Internet!
Re-configure the router manually to get back my previous settings
Need your help to figure out why a simple re-start of the modem and router (in that sequence) doesn't work and I have to re-set the router to get on-line
One more thing - I backed up my router configuration (Administration --> Config Management --> Backup) and after getting online, restored it. Thought It would work, but no luck. Couldn't connect via the router. Had to follow the above sequence (again) to get online and then manually had to re-configure all router settings
Rourter - WRT54G. Version 2
Firmware version - v4.21.1
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

Step should be :
1) Shutdown the computer.
2) Unplug the Broadband modem’s power cable and wait for 30 seconds.
3) Unplug the router’s power cable and wait for 30 seconds.
4) Plug in the Broadband modem’s power cable and wait for its lights to appear stable.
5) Plug in the router's power cable once the modem’s lights appear stable.
6) Power on the computer on and test the Internet connection.

Alternative to HH4 Separate Modem and Router

I'm on a ADSL 8mb G.DMT line and find my HH4 severely lacking in features. Most importantly i need QoS to manage the available bandwidth between users and prevent one device hogging the connection. So clearly i needed a better router.
I already had a spare netgear wnr2200 running dd-wrt custom firmware so it was suggested that i purchase a Huwaei HG612 to go with this. I took this advice, unlocked it so that i could use it with ADSL but found it dropped connection every 1 minute when connected to a router over PPPoE. Theres not many routers that support connecting to a modem over PPPoA so i purchased a Draytek Vigor 120 that was capable of doing a PPPoA to PPPoE bridge. This didnt drop but had packet loss when behind a router.
I havent looked into the causes of these failed attempts but presume its something to do with how BT handles ADSL lines. I did have a vigor 120 working as above on a ADSL line some years ago on the same equipment so this would suggest BT have changed something.
So 2 failed attempts i'm now asking what would be a good separate modem and router to go with my bt adsl connection? What are other people using on BT these days?

There are many good links in the forum with detail. I have a linksys but not that model. So you trying to get 200MOdem >>> Linksys >>>> G5.
If the G5 works directly to Modem then is should be small issue to insert linksys. I had to go to 192.168.1.1 and "config" the Linksys to act as router/wireless ap.
You'll need some datapoints from your ISP and then you can select the wireless settings. Typically DHCP and a security setting, like WPA Personal password. Also change your networks name from Linksys to something else.
It sounds as if your ethernet connection config on the G5 might contain the ISP specific information that now needs to go into the router. Such as connection type...i.e. ppoe and user id password if requireed etc. You would then configure Airport connectivity, primarily just DHCP. (just turn on linksys and then turn on G5 and Airport, you should see your network in the drop down.
Regards

Modem and Router Switch off

Can I switch off both my Modem and Router at night, previously I was advised to keep my Router switched on 24/7 to maintain my speed, is this still the case with Infinity?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

The modem on Infinity holds the connection so i would personally advise you keep the modem plugged in, the router should be fine to switch off overnight.
However, there is also a power save feature on the home hub as well.
If you want to say thanks for a helpful answer, please click on the Ratings star on the left-hand side If the the reply answers your question then please mark as ’Mark as Accepted Solution

Best way to handle all erros and get performance(OCI)?

Hi there,
Im using[b] Oracle Call Interface to execute batch file process. But I have got a problem.
I set ExecuteBatch with the same number of commit time, i.e: 100, 1000 or just 10, for thats ok.
((OraclePreparedStatement)globalStmt).setExecuteBatch(commit);
And I handle executeUpdate to catch all SQL Exceptions. I made some proposital files with invalid erros but when I handle "executeUpdate" it�s doesn�t get the corrent error line, and puts out another line that is corret.
((OraclePreparedStatement)globalStmt).executeUpdate();
Check in the code I concluded that its always get the same sequence of commit number like the error line. For example, I have between line 1 - 50 a line error, this line is 31, but I set the commit time for 50, its show me that line errror is 50 wherever 31. But if I put setExecuteBatch with '1' so it can handle corret lines erros, but the system performance bring down. What is the best way to handle all erros and keep the perfronace?
Sorry for my english, I am not native. Thanks all.

So by doing this, everything will transfer and look exactly the way I have it on the old machine?
That is correct, if your old machine is Intel based after using MA the new machine will look just like the old machine. Here is information from Apple on MA, I'd recommend looking it over.
My recommendation is to answer NO when setting up the new machine when it asks "Are you moving from another Mac?" The reason being let you new machine get set up and run for a couple of hours to ensure it's fine. Then launch MA and follow the prompts, it's very easy and if you use a fast connection like FW it should go smoothly.
Regards,
Roger

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We have always used one iTunes account and I want to crate a new account for my daughter. What is the best way to go about this and will she need to download free apps again?

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My house is somewhat unusual in that the master socket is in the loft. It has a faceplate splitter into which all the phone extensions and the ADSL cable connect. The plasterboard on the bedroom ceilings is metal backed and when I tried locating the Home Hub in the loft the WiFi reception was very poor. To get round this I extended the ADSL line from the front of the master socket using the CAT5 that runs from the loft into most of the rooms. This set-up is currently working great and the WiFi and ADSL performance are very good indeed.
What's I'd like to know is will I be able to use a similar set-up with Infinity? Ie extend the 'Infinity' side of the new master socket over CAT5 to the modem and router one floor below or (preferably) co-locate the Infinity modem with the master socket and run the modem - Home Hub connection over CAT5? The red BT Infinity socket on the back of Home Hub looks to be a regular RJ45 connection so I'm hoping the latter approach will work just fine, ie modem in the loft and Hub one floor below via CAT5.
Any comments would be appreciated.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

The first suggestion is fine, but you will have to use a lead that has RJ11 heads on both ends. The DSL port on the Openreach modem will only accept an RJ11 head. (The DSL port on the new master socket will accept both RJ11 / 45. Your latter suggestion is fine and seems to be less hassle of the two. I've done it for several customers who've had LAN connections throughout their home.

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Best way to power down modem and router

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