Best Way To speed up stereo mix 2bpm

i tried universal and didn't do very well. i'm assuming the rest won't do much better. so is there another program that could do a better job at time and pitch? also could i make the whole mix into a apple loop and speed it up that way? can never figure how to make a apple loop to this day.
thanks

Try the Melodyne demo, it will be your friend in these kind of situations.

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What is the best way to speed up my older MAC?

What is the best way to speed up my older MAC?

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what is the best way to speed up, get rid of junk on a macbook pro?

How to maintain a Mac
Make two or more backups of all your files
One backup is not enough to be safe. A copy of a backup doesn't count as another backup; all backups must be made directly from the original data.
Keep at least one backup off site at all times in case of disaster. Backing up to a cloud-data service is one way to accomplish this, but don't rely exclusively on such backups.
In fact, don’t rely exclusively on any single backup method, such as Time Machine.
If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
Keep your software up to date
In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Don't install such modifications unless they're absolutely necessary. Remove them when they are no longer needed. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all system modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of difficulties with system updates.
Don't install crapware
...such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac," "TuneUpMyMac," and “MacKeeper” scams, but there are many others.
As a rule, you should avoid software that changes the way other software works. Plugins for Photoshop and similar programs are an obvious exception to this rule. Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Only install software that is useful to you, not (as you imagine) to the computer. For example, a word processor is useful for writing. A video editor is useful for making movies. A game is useful for fun. But a "cache cleaner" isn't useful for anything. You didn't buy a computer so you could clean caches.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve. Do not rely on "utilities" such as "AppCleaner" and the like that purport to remove software.
Don't install bad, conflicting, or unnecessary fonts
Whenever you install new fonts, use the validation feature of the built-in Font Book application to make sure the fonts aren't defective and don't conflict with each other or with others that you already have. See the built-in help and this support article for instructions.
Deactivate or remove fonts that you don't really need to speed up application launching.
Avoid malware
"Malware" is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X was once so rare that it was hardly a concern, but it's now increasingly common and dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against malware, but you can’t rely on it—the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party "anti-virus" products for protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness—not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
Don't fill up your disk or SSD
A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a startup failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
Relax, don’t do it
Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime for maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform.
A well-designed computing device is not something you should have to think about much. It should be an almost transparent medium through which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that needs a lot of attention just to keep going, use a PC, or collect antique cars.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

Best way to drive two stereo amplifie

I am running a Dell Dimension 8400, 3.4 mhz using Windows Vista. I have a Soundblaster Audigy SE card in it. Coming out of the green jack I have a y adapter into RCA jacks to a Sony stereo (two speaker) amplifier. This has worked just fine for me. I now want to dri've a duplicate Sony stereo (two speaker) amplifier from the same computer. I want the output from the computer to dri've both amplifiers with identical output at all times. What is the best way to do this? The current sound card has three line outs, but only the first one seems to work. Can I simultaneoudly make the others behave the same way (just a left and a right), or are they just for 5. or 7. systems? Or should/can I add a second Audigy card to the system? Or should I get a different card that can support what I want to do? Open to all suggestions. Thanks in advance.

On XP systems, this what you want there is done by
- connect the one into Front L/R (LineOut ) and the other into Rear L/R (LineOut 2)?
- set the speaker mode to multichannel (4/4. (or 6/6.))
- enable CMSS w/ stereo surround.
I don't have Vista in use so, maybe you check if this is the way to go w/ it as well.
jutapa
Message Edited by jutapa on 06-06-2008 0:29 PM

ADAT stereo recorded as split mono: best way to convert to stereo?

Hello everyone,
I have session material on an ADAT that have stereo files split on two mono tracks (e.g. channels 1 & 2) and thus were recorded in logic on mono audio tracks (e.g.1 & 2). What is the next step to insure easy editing abilities?
For example, is there a “link” button similar to FCP that will allow edits to effect both tracks? If not, should bounce the two audio tracks into one stereo track? “Convert to Stereo” does not work in the audio window, as Logic does not recognize these as split stereo files. Same seems to apply for "convert regions to new audio files" in the arrange window.
Thanks in advance for your help! Sorry for the newbe question, I dont work with audio that often, especially coming from DAT.

Is it really worth it/necessary? I will in the future make sure to record them as stereo tracks. I guess experience is the best teacher

Best Way to Speed Up Output/Export

Hello,
I am trying to increase my AE use in my video business and am trying to come to grips with rendering, output and one computer.
I use Edius as my editor and have an XP machine with a quad 9450 processor with 2.75 ram and shooting in HD.
My main goal is to setup AE to render/output and be able to work in other programs, some which will be memory intensive.
Is the best option to get a second computer just for rendering/output and let it go as long as it wants without interrupting my main system?
I have also read a little about the Nucleo program, but is would seem that resources would still be at a premium using one system.
Thanks for your input!

AE will tax any system to its maximum, that is for sure. Things you can consider:
In defense of David's post, workflow is indeed a primary consideration for AE render efficiency. Using a 2000x2000 pixel jpeg when you only need a 1000x1000 pixel jpeg can potentially quadruple the amount of time AE takes to process each frame. The less RAM you have, the more of a problem this would be.
You only mention XP as your OS, but no more detail. 32 bit XP has probably the greatest limitations of any current OS when it comes to system memory. Perhaps moving to a 64 bit OS would improve your system's performance prospects - although I'll happily stand corrected on that by a more Windows-centric poster than myself, if need be.
Your hardware is important, in this order: CPU speed and cores, amount of RAM, hard drive speed. I don't understand what you mean by "2.75 RAM", but you should have at least 2 gigabytes of RAM for each processor core, plus a bit more for system overhead. So with a quad-core (4 core) CPU, you should have 10GB or more RAM for optimum performance.
Multi-processing with multiple CPU cores dramatically improves most render durations.
Using Nucleo Pro software has an advantage over AE's own multi-processing, because it allows you to continue working in AE while the system renders in the background. Personally, I find Nucleo Pro to be a much more streamlined and effective manager of multi-processing than AE alone, but your own requirements and budget are important in that decision. Note that Nucleo Pro does not allow you to spread processing across machines - it's still a one-machine deal.
Since your intention is to continue working while AE is rendering, there is no substitute for a well-configured standalone AE machine. This will maximize render efficiency because you won't be stealing any CPU time with other applications. If you have the budget, it is certainly the most effective option.

My macbook pro is slowing down!what is the best way to speed it up?what is the best drive cleaner application i can use?

my macbook pro is slowing down!i was looking for drive cleaning applications bau i couldn't decide which one is more useful!

There are NO applications that will make your MBP run faster. At best they will have no effect, at worst they will create more problems.
Start with this comprehensive trouble shooting document.
https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3521
Pay particular attention to the Hard Drive and third party applications.
Ciao.

Best way to speed up switching between apps?

Hi,
I'm trying to figure out what I can do to make my Mac Pro better, (ie, faster) at switching between applications. There will be times when I am working in Photoshop and I need to go back to Illustrator, or InDesign (these seem to be the 2 worst offenders) and it will literally take minutes for my computer to finally open the .ai or .indd file. And just fyi, the files are already open, I'm just clicking from the PS environment to an already open file in Illustrator or InDesign and bringing them to the front.
Is this a lack of RAM? Is it something else? Is it an Adobe issue? I'm just pulling my hair out trying to figure out how to make this better/more efficient. If buying/installing more RAM would help, then I am open to that, but I just want to make sure that is the root of the problem, or that it will at least make it better. I suspect that it's not necessarily just an Adobe-centric issue since clicking on Firefox will also reproduce the same problem, ie. it will take a minute or two to finally come to the front.
The basic breakdown of my system: Mac Pro 2 x 2.66 GHz 6-Core Intel Xenon, 8 GB Memory (8 GB 1333 MHz DDR3), running system 10.6.8. Adobe Creative Suite 5.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
-Eric

It might help to have Activity Monitor running while you're working like this, to see what's happening to the CPU, the RAM, and the drives. Activity Monitor is in your Applications/Utilities folder.
The first tab of the application is CPU usage. Unless you're pegging the cores with a heavy processing job (eg, file conversion), that's unlikely to be your bottleneck, but it's always possible that there's a process running there you weren't aware of.
Next is RAM. When you have large files open, those files are stored in RAM, so with PS, AI and ID files open at the same time, you may find you quickly use up your available memory. Check how much red, yellow, blue and green you have in the pie chart. Any time you have to page RAM out to the hard drive, it'll cause a slowdown. I would say 8GB is actually on the low side for that kind of simultaneous use of Adobe apps. Get 12GB or really as much as you can afford.
Obviously check drive space - you should leave a good 10-15% room free on your project drive. And are you storing the media/project files on your system drive? Using a separate, fast (ie, 7200rpm) drive, or even two striped, can give you MUCH better performance when reading/writing media.
Matt

What is the best way to connect an ipod to a home stereo system

i forgot my ipad password - i entered the wrong password a number of times and am now locked out - what do i do to start again?

Place the iOS device in Recovery Mode and then connect to your computer and restore via iTunes. The iPod will be erased.
iOS: Wrong passcode results in red disabled screen
If recovery mode does not work try DFU mode.
How to put iPod touch / iPhone into DFU mode « Karthik's scribblings
For how to restore:
iTunes: Restoring iOS software
To restore from backup see:
iOS: How to back up
If you restore from iCloud backup the apps will be automatically downloaded. If you restore from iTunes backup the apps and music have to be in the iTunes library since synced media like apps and music are not included in the backup of the iOS device that iTunes makes.
You can redownload most iTunes purchases by:
Downloading past purchases from the App Store, iBookstore, and iTunes Store
The best way depends upon your stereo system. If you system has an AUX input you can get a cable that goes from the headphone jack to the AUX in

What is the best way to work with mixed media in 1080 timeline?

Hi there,
I have a project shot mostly in 1080 24p but a bit of 720 24p and 4x3 30p footage.
What is the best way to work with this mixed media?
Thanks!
Steven

Hi Shane,
Ok just to recap (thanks for being patient by the way)...I have put some questions in here...feel free to write in caps to respond and we'll put this baby to rest!
1) I will work in a 1080p FCP sequence, correct?
2) HD 1080p footage captured as applepro res hq I will leave as is and work with?
3) HD 720p footage which was captured as applepro res hq. Can I just drop in 1080 timeline and let FCP do its work? Or should i run through compressor, if so what setting shall I submit it too?
4) I dont have a budget for an external hardware to convert SD to HD...should I capture my SD Beta through Final Cut and just leave and let FCP do its work? Or should I run through compressor? If so what setting shall I submit it too?
5) For for my master sequence in FCP am I not using an I-Frame format apple pro res if I am using my apple pro res hq 1080 footage as my formatted sequence? I am not sure what you mean by GOP?
6) I also found some 60p footage 1080p XDCAM compressor shot with the same XDCAM camera. I put in the 1080p 24p timeline but it was pretty choppy...any ideas of this conform?
Thanks very much for all your help it has gone along way,
Steven
Saying what CODECS you are working with was my question. 1080, 720, 4:3...really says nothing. There are a dozen 1080 codecs, another dozen 720 codecs, and nearly 100 4:3 formats.
Best to capture all the footage to one uniform codec.
Second best is to work with one format and let FCP conform the rest to that...IF and only IF that format is an I-Frame format like ProRes. GOP formats as master sequence formats cause TONS of issues.
What I'd do is work 1080 ProRes, just add the 720p footage (Use Compressor to convert it if you didn't have a lot, but if you had a lot, just add it), but I'd capture all the SD 4:3 footage via a Kona 3 or Matrox MXO2 as 1080 ProRes. Hardware conversion of SD to HD is much better than anything FCP can do. AE might do good as well. But then use Compressor to convert 29.97 footage captured (you can't convert 29.97 to 23.98 when you capture) to get to 23.98.

X-Fi Fatal1ty Headset combined with Stereo Mix (USB)

Ok...here's the issue...
I use the USB version of the X-Fi Fatal1ty Headset, and I love it...except one little issue...
I sometimes vid stream my games to my online radio station's video stream, and when I am using my USB gaming headset, I get no sound output on the video stream. Obviously it needs to use the Stereo Mix, but, of course, the Stereo Mix does not output any sound when the sound is piped to the headset. Is there any way to get the Stereo Mix to output audio even though I'm using the USB headset as my primary sound driver?

I have a similar issue. If I play video with an AC3 track, the audio is only stereo when played from Media Player Classic and Windows Media Player. Playing the video in the PowerDVD works fine though. It's not too annoying to load up all of my ripped movies in PowerDVD, but it would be nice to get MPC and WMP working correctly.

Best way to export individual tracks for mixing on other software

I've recorded a song with my band, it has 14 tracks in total.
We have a friend who is a pretty good engineer and I want to export the tracks from GB to give him so he can mix/master.
What is the best way of doing this?
I've done a bit of googling and found two options:
(1) Find the GB track in the finder and use the 'show package contents' to locate each individual part
(2) Solo each track and use the GB share function
I have concerns with both options, with (1) not all the tracks begin at the start of the song so I will end up with lots of tracks of random length with no way to sync them properly.
With option (2) I am concerned GB will do it's own mixing and not give me the raw versions.
Any advice?
Oh, and a quick other question. If I have recorded vocals for verse 1 on track 1 and then the chorus on track 2, I can click and drag the chorus section onto track 1 but click & drag needs a steady hand not to get it slightly out of place. Is there a keyboard shortcut for this?
Thanks

HangTime wrote:
how i'd do it ... since i'm going with the export route (and in this case i would definitely go that route rather then trying to piece together all the bits and keep them in time), i'd want to start my (continued) project with everything at their best levels possible, i wouldn't want to waste any of my 24 bits
Thanks for the reply.
On this one issue, however, I would think that raising the volume on GB tracks prior to exporting to another DAW would have no effect on the number of bits used or wasted. The number of bits used would be an issue during the initial recording, and then when creating the eventual stereo mix. But the intermediary stage at which you transfer from GB to another DAW is "bit agnostic." Aside from transferring the files, there's nothing special about if from an audio perspective - increasing volume can't create more "original" information on each track/bit beyond the initial recording. Rather, it's the equivalent of adding a digital volume level increase on a track which you can do at any stage, like after the tracks arrive in their new DAW, with the same effect.
In other words, as I understand it, increasing the levels in GB prior to bringing them into another DAW or after you bring them into another DAW is equivalent as far as the original (or ultimate) meaningful bit information is concerned. Therefore, you might as well provide the tracks in as unadulterated form as possible, and allow the engineer of the subsequent DAW to apply any digital effects, including volume increase, as needed.
at a technical level, that's probably true. however GB does not output garbage, under the hood it's the same engine that logic uses. it may be a consumer level GUI, but the guts are professional level.
Absolutely!

What is the best way to add volume to my mix?

Hola,
I have a track which is very very low in volume, and there's a ton of automation data on a ton of tracks... And I am just wondering what is the best way to compensate for this? I read somewhere that Logic's gain plugin may actually be degrading sound quality due to it being restricted to a (unspecified) bit depth... Is there another gain plug-in or method to do this?
Or.. Is there a way to tell logic to raise each and every point of automation on each and every track by a specified db?
-patrick

Yeah. I think that's probably a much better way to
work.
Is there any problem adding a Free G plugin to OUT
1-2, and cranking that up until I have a good
signal?
-patrick
Hi Patrick,
Is the stereo mix the one that is not loud enough? When you play it through a different system it's too soft,but when you play it through your mix monitors it sounds loud enough?
I think if this is the case,you need to turn down your monitors,and turn up everything up inside Logic. I had a friend who did not understand monitoring,and had reeeeeeally expensive speakers,but no way to control their leve,so all his mixes ended up being -30 dB from maximum.they coul dnot be mastered,becasue when you add that much gain to a mix,you also bring the noise floor up byt that much,and you end up with a very hissy,messy,crappy,disgusting mix.
So,if I were you,I'd check my gain structure,and make sure you can control levels at every stage of the signal path,from mic to speakers.
Set your monitors to playback at about 80dB spl.Go to Radio Shack and invest in a SPL meter,they are not expensive,and are well worth it.
Cheers

What's the best way to connect the audio out of my Mac to my stereo receiver?

I want to listen to my mp3 collection through my home theatre stero receiver.
I have 2 audio interfaces that I connect to my mac through USB and Firewire: Digi Design Mbox mini and Maudio ProFire 610.
I've tried going from a headphone 1/8'' connector from the headphone out of my mac to rca connected to the aux (or whatever) of my stereo.
I've tried using a 1/4'' adapter on the 1/8'' to go from my mbox mini's headphone output to the rca aux on my stereo.
The problem is I'm hearing distortions that sound like clipping, or static, crunchiness on certain frequencies in a lot of my mp3's that shouldn't be there.
I listen to lots of music, and a lot of it uses distortion, like shoegaze, drone etc but I know what I'm hearing is unnatural.
I even hear these flaws when I listen to headphones through the headphone out of my mbox.
Page 2 on this instruction manual says I should be able to go from the monitor outs to my stereo. The monitor outs are 1/4 inch out so I figured I would need a 1/4 inch to rca cable.
I got this one from monster thinking it should work. No dice.
So my question is, what is the best way to connect my mac to my stereo? I need to avoid these distortions and flaws in the audio i'm hearing or I will go nuts.
Why might I be getting these clipping distoritons?
any advice would be fantastic

It depends on how close the receiver is to the iMac. If it's just a few feet away you need at cable like:
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-THINTOSMIN6-Toslink-Digital-Optical/dp/B00016 W6Y6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1316096392&sr=8-2
However if the receiver is across the room or the house you would be best to enable Air Play, this enables you to wirelessly connect the receiver to the iMac. You will need the above cable and an Airport Express. If you are not familiar with Air Play navigate to:
http://www.apple.com/itunes/airplay/
I have been using it for quite some time and find it great. If you are not familiar with the Airport Express here is the link to it:
http://www.apple.com/airportexpress/
You can even find refurbished ones on Apples website for about $79.

What is the best way to connect my ipad to the high-speed Internet connection in a hotel room

what is the best way to connect my ipad to the high speed inernet connection in a hotel room

every connection is a bit different. Generally, connect to the wifi, then you may need to open Safari, and may even need to try to get to one of your bookmarked pages to trigger the 'agree to our terms' page to come up.
As to it kicking you off every so often, there are sometimes glitches with the wifi on iPads, you can also be subject to any programming the hotel has. Like I've noticed various places that only allow you to log on for a period of time before having to relogin.
most hotels have 1-800 numbers, so you can always try calling that to see if their tech support has any tips for the frequent disconnection issue.

Best Way To speed up stereo mix 2bpm

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