Better Print Quality....JPG or TIFF..?

I have a 3 Megapixel camera and was wondering which type of file I would get better print results from ...a JPG image at 1.2 MB or a TIFF of the same image at 8 MB..?
I'm starting to use online Photo Centers...such as WalMart or Sam's.

David is right. If you're going to do lots of editing on one image then you might want to use TIFF as the jpg will degrade a little bit each time it's edited and saved. if you have Photoshop or Photoshop Elements you can shoot in jpg and the open to edit and save as a Photoshop file. Subsequent edits will not lose quality. If you do use the PS or PSE method and you're editing from within iPhoto you must save it to the desktop the first time you edit a jpg and change it to a .psd file. Then import it and all future edits will be the same as editing with iPhoto.
OT

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    This question was solved.
    View Solution.

    Hi bze,
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    Click the Thumbs up to say thanks. Mark Accepted Solution if the solution solves your issue.

  • Epson Artisan 810 and Snow Leopard and Photoshop....Print quality??

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    Are your color cartridges working?  Light grayscale areas are typically printed using the color inks to give better print quality.  (The black ink droplets are much larger than the color, grayscale using color gives better prints.)  Depending on your operating system there may be a setting in the driver for "Print in Grayscale".
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  • Print Quality....JPG or TIFF..?

    I have a 3 Megapixel camera and was wondering which type of file I would get better print results from ...a JPG image at 1.2 MB or a TIFF of the same image at 8 MB..?
    I'm starting to use online Photo Centers...such as WalMart or Sam's.

    There are several issues here. First off, you need to realize how JPG works.
    JPG is of course a compression standard where a large photo can be compressed to a much smaller file size. This is done by analyzing pixels in a given area that seem a lot alike, throwing most of them out and saving just some of them. Basically it does something like "gee these dozen pixels are all more or less the same color blue as this one pixel, so I will save the one pixel and note that the other 11 pixels are to be created the same as this one when the file is opened. Other times it might only be two pixels near each other that can be combined to one pixel, maybe other area you have to save each pixel. Really busy pictures with lots of different colors and textures will not compress down as well as scenes with a lot less variation. So a photo of you standing in front of a single color wall will compress down more than a photo of you standing in front of flower garden for example.
    OK so you take the photo and if your camera is using JPG compression, the camera take the photo, does the JPG compression and then stores the resulting file to your memory card. When you open the photo on your computer, what you are seeing is the expanded version. In other words, the computer reads the JOG file and recreates all those thrown out pixels as instructed to do so (e.g. those 11 estimated pixels are drawn on the screen along with the one real pixel). So while your file might have only been 1/2 meg for your 2MP photo, what you see on the screen is now using 5.76 megabytes of your RAM (1600x1200 pixels with each pixel needing 3 colors of 8 bits each, so each pixel is 24 bits).
    At this point, if you were to resave the file using JPG compression, say after you edit it, the computer has no idea which were the original pixels and which were the estimated pixels and so does the compression all over again. So you end up possibly saving some of the estimated pixels and throwing out the real pixels. If you repeat this over and over, you eventually end up with a crappy photo because you keep throwing out real data and creating estimated data. Doing this once is usually no big deal, so if you take a JPG from your camera, edit it, then resave the final version once, you won't notice the difference. But if you work on it 10 different days, making changes, resaving the JOG then reopening that new JPG each day, you end up with 10 generations removed from the original. BAD! So if you think you want to do editing many times, when you first open the original JPG, save it as a TIFF or a Photoshop type (uncompressed file). Then only save as a JPG if you want to sent that version somewhere or are done editing forever.
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    Patrick

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    Re: Print quality on Epson Stylus Photo R800
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    Frans
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    Message was edited by: macorin

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