Better?? Stock chipset cooler or Vantec IceBerg on Neo 2 Plat

In your experience as I am hoping not to have to remove my mobo to try this and find out my stock msi chipset cooler cools better than my vantec iceberg.
What do you ppl think is a better cooler??

Yeah I know it will fit and is just marginally larger. I test fitted it when I first got the mobo from newegg. And its not like its alot of trouble getting the mobo out of the case. I am just lazy. All I do all day long is work on other ppls computers. I kinda like just coming home and having a computer that works. But lately my computer room has been getting warmer and if I restart my computer I will get bsod's in x64 v1433 with error "Page fault in non paged area" And I go into bios and the chipset temp is 42'C To me that is just way to hot. I have pleny of cooling inside the case and ie; 6 80mm fans and a Arctic Cooling freezer 64 on the 3200+. But I am wondering if maybe it is due to memory overheating.
I did just take my memory down from 2.85v to 2.55 and it works just fine. So maybe that is my trick.
Also I did remove the stock hs and put some as5 under it and that lowered my temps by about 2'C

Similar Messages

Vantec iceberg cooler

has anyone put a vantec iceberg cooler (or others) on their northbridge?
if so what kind of cooling improvement did you see?
im thinkin about putting an active cooling solution on my northbridge
thanks for responses

You don't actually "see" any temperature benefits, as AFAIK, there is no sensor on the NB (and even if there was, it would probably be wrong )
I put one on mine more for peace of mind than anything else.

After market chipset cooler for NEO (PLAT)

o as im typing this im runing 44c CPU and 45c chipset dose any ond else have this prob one this borad and i dont what to wast money if the chipset cooler dont clear my 9800 card and HSF and ive got a Artec cooling After market cooler so it is realy close to the chipset cooler... so has anyone put an after market HSF on there chipset

I just posted this in the other Northbridge fan thread but I'll post it again:
Well I just recently built a new pc with an MSI K8N Neo Platinum and have been browsing these forums for awhile... I've also been looking into actively cooling the NB because from previous experience with my Xbox, Nvidia NB's run fairly hot... I was thinking about getting one of those Vantec coolers but I dont really like the hole thing where the fan is built into the heatsink (personally I don't think it is very efficient)... So I was trying to find some other ways to cool the chip and found that any 40mm fan will fit on the heatsink, but the stock gold heatsink was too tall and if I put a fan on it would interfere with my Radeon 9800Pro with an Arctic Silencer cooler... So I came across this:
http://www.compusa.com/products/product_info.asp?product_code=291975&pfp=srch1
The heatsink is shorter plus it comes with a 40mm fan so I think it would fit perfectly on the NB (I have one of these chipset coolers in my Xbox and am very pleased with it)... I think that combined with some Arctic Silver 5 will definately perform a lot better than the stock gold POS... I will be picking one of these up shortly at CompUSA and will let all you guys know how it goes along with some pictures... Hope this helps...
Here are some pics of the kit and of it placed on the NB in my Xbox:
As you can see the heatsink that comes with it is indeed a little shorter and should help those of you with larger video cards that have problems fitting an NB cooler... I also have an arctic silencer on my vid card and I'm almost 100% sure this would fit as I was able to fit my finger inbetween the card and the NB heatsink and the fan is about the same width as my finger...

MSI Pro-E Chipset Cooling (Need Some Major Clarification Here Before I Begin)

Hey guys, about to bring up a very well known issue here, which brought about many 'heated' debates, no pun intended :P I know there has been many threads on this issue for nearly 2 years now, and well, i did tons of reading on the subject, starting with this classic thread here: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=126885.0 and various others. I'll try and keep this as short as i can and get right to the point. I know what needs to be done, and the method i will be going with (though i am still debating with some options on the final decision), so i wont even bother going into all of that and save myself and you guys some time here. I am quite certain that HU16E has seen more than enough of these threads, and that every time he sees one, he probably gets a brain ache (sorry man )
But basically, i want to remove the stock heatsink on my X58 Pro-E mobo, and replace BOTH the NB and SB heatsinks. This is something very simple to do, take maybe no more than half hour to get it all removed, put the new TIM on, reseat it, etc, and i am all done. The only problem is having to gut the system and put everything back, which takes even longer to do and is something i am not looking forward to doing, but i am just not comfy with an idle temp of 78c-80c, so i want to take care of all this asap. Yes, i know that is under Intels specs, and yes, it IS working, but i haven't even bothered to play any games on this new system yet, because i know if i was to fire up a power hungry game, that the temps would be well over 90c, and that is just NOT GOOD.
What i want to be sure of, and the main question here, is do any of you know, FOR CERTAIN, which heatsink will fit this mobo without any blood, sweat, tears, tedious modding and cussing up a storm and throwing temper tantrums? Or even worse, getting the heatsink and having it not fit at all? That is something i want to avoid, as it just wastes more time having to send it back, look for another and just creates more hassle. If i do decide to actually hacksaw the heatpipe that links the stock NB/SB together, well at that point, there is no going back, and when i go to put the new heatsinks on and they wind up not fitting, i am basically screwed and wont be able to use the pc for days until finding the right one, so again, i want to avoid all of that.
In that thread i linked to above, he mentions he used that Thermalright NB heatsink, but the problem here, is that he was using the Eclipse mobo, which is not the one i have. I seen some others in that thread saying that they had the PRO-E, but never went into enough detail that they used that same heatsink. It seems like it would fit ok, but 'seems' isn't good enough, and i need to be certain it would. Looking in the system right now, i can lower the gfx card to PCI-E slot 2, to make even more room, so shouldn't be a problem i would think.
But then i came across this thread, and found it quite interesting: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=129044.0
Now this person used that Thermaltake Spirit 2 NB cooler, but it seems Thermaltake yanked that off the market, because the link to newegg in the thread, now shows it OUT OF STOCK/DEACTIVATED. Also if you go here:
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?S=1231&ID=1901 and click the pic of the old Spirit 2, it then leads you here: http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?S=1231&ID=1901 , so they obviously recalled the other one for whatever reason. I am guessing because that one was copper, and this one is aluminum and also smaller and virtually do the same job as the other. This one seems really nice and would definitely be the one i would like to go with, since it has a 40mm fan on it all in one, unlike the Thermalright, which doesn't come with a fan (but can use an 80mn fan as well with the mounting contents it comes with). Based on what i have been reading about this issue, if i reseat everything properly, use AS5 and make sure the fans are blowing properly, this Thermaltake heatsink should have virtually the same effect as the Thermalright would. Of course, this leaves the SB completely exposed, which leads to me part 2 of this person's post. He linked to this NB/SB cooler, which is just about the same size as the stock SB cooler, and he 'claims' it fits just fine:
http://www.xoxide.com/enzotech-cnb-s1l.html
There is also another model by the same company, which has a small fan on it too:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708006
The first one would definitely fit, at least where the gfx card is concerned, albeit, barely. Not sure if the one with the fan would, but then again, based on all that i've read so far, that seems like overkill, since the SB doesn't get hot at all, only lukewarm at this point, and a decent heatsink is all that is really needed. However, i say this person 'claimed' it fit, 'supposedly', because he never posted pics when asked about it, and then disappeared from his own thread shortly after. And what spoiled the whole read for me, was another person posting this:
"The enzotech low profile heatsink will not fit on the south bridge because the hole to hole diameter is too large for it to match up against the mounting holes of the south bridge on the x58 boards.
The Enzotech CNB-S1L has 2 possible hole-hole diameters: 54.6 mm and 59mm. However, the mounting holes on the mobo are only 49mm apart. So the Enzotech heatsink designed for the northbridge will not fit on the south bridge.
If you somehow managed to make it fit, please post pics."
So yea, now i can't be certain that heatsink would fit on the SB, and if this guy was telling the truth, if he did his own modding to force it to fit, or what. Yes, i can hacksaw the pipe off, and leave the stock SB heatsink there, but...i figure if i am going to replace one, i may as well replace the other while i am doing all of that. Like i said, i don't want to have to find out it doesn't upon installing it, because that is just unnecessary time being wasted.
And there you have it, guys. Now, i am no expert at all when it comes a lot of this stuff, as far as certain technical aspects go, but many posters here really know their stuff and from what i have read here and on other forums, i feel like a total noob sometimes lol. So all this boils down to, and what i really need to know, is will all the heatsinks that i have outlined here, fit this motherboard properly? I really need to take care of this asap, because this thing running at 78-80 all the time is really going to lower it's life span, and every second that it does, is just one less second of use. Maybe that is being a lil too dramatic, but still, i've seen so many get their temps down to the low 40s and 50s, so i know for sure this board DOES NOT need to be running that hot :-/
On another note, i noticed many saying they wanted to add nuts/washers or whatever, to give better stability and contact. Well, since as i am as bad as it gets with carpentry, measuring, etc, i have no damn idea which ones i would need. I once was asked to measure something long ago when i worked as a laborer for a carpenter and reported back, saying to him '2/3s'. The guy looked at me like i had two heads lmao. Fortunately, i can read a ruler/measuring tape much better now lol, but i'm still no Norm, from This Old House. I hear all this talk of 'spring mounts', 'push pins' 'mounting holes', 'screws', etc. Since i am unable to see the back of my mobo right now (only the CPU area from the other side of the case panel when removed), i have no idea if its using metal screws, or push pins, or what. I see the heatsinks i mentioned here, as well as many others, use these various methods, so im uncertain what would work on this board (if it needs plastic/nylon screws or metal ones). Now, i checked out this youtube vid of a guy showing how to remove my exact mobo and reseat it with new/better paste. It was quite informative. Just so you guys know, i have the older 'brown colored' Pro-E board. The one in the video looks to be the same color. However, i just purchased this board, along with the whole system less than 3 weeks ago, so i don't know how old this Pro-E may be.
Another important question about what this guy did in the vid too. You can fast-forward to where he takes it apart. Looks to me like they are metal screws, but again, im unsure if mine use those. The front of the heatsinks have two holes, those of which i can easily see, and have what looks to be a plastic washer or something on it. It looks 'greyish'. Now, A VERY IMPORTANT issue in this vid, is this guy removed the THERMAL PADDING on the heatsinks. I read here all over the place, that you are NOT SUPPOSED TO DO THAT, as to ensure that the heatsinks aren't touching any components on the board, the chipset itself. As you can see in the first couple comments, the guy says 'Yes, the existing pads were scraped off. It's important to remove the old thermal pads, otherwise you won't have any benefit & it may even be worse.' So yea. all that does is just confuse me more. Considering how gunked up, though, that the paste will be when removing it, i can only image that the stock pad on there is probably gonna be pretty nasty as well too, which is why he probably took it all off. But yea, wondering if you guys could clarify that for me, if that should be done or not. Seems many here were very firm that it should NEVER be removed.
I can honestly i never have had an issue with MSI until now, and they do put out quality products, but i hope in the future, that newer mobos would use better TIM and have a fan added on the NB or something. Other manufacturers do this, some don't, but they ALL should, so i am not just singling out MSI here. We live in an age where technology is very capricious and always progressing, and back in the day, well, PCs didn't require crazy amounts of fans, watercooling, etc. But with things putting out so much wattage these days, apps/games/movies requiring better hardware, which also needs more power and/or outputs a lot too, well you don't have to work for NASA to know that heat is going to be a problem, and the motherboard being an obvious vital component, should be adequately cooled just as well as everything else that needs it. I do love this board, and it does more than enough to suit my needs, i just wish it didn't run so dang hot That's the ONLY gripe i have about it.

Hey, HU16E, and others,
I just wanted to let you know that i finally broke down and attempted this procedure (after a lot of hesitation), and everything worked out perfectly as you said, WITHOUT having to buy some aftermarket chipset cooler. Maybe it was meant to be for me, because i learned a crap load of things in the process and in the end, it wasn't as hard or grueling as i thought (although 1 process was, which ill get to shortly lol).
Once i finally got everything gutted (well, just the stuff attached to the mobo), i then removed it, and hit a wall, because the screws that hold down the chipset heatsink, wouldnt fit any phillips head screw drivers had, so i had to stop, run out and buy a lil six pack of VERY small philips and flat heads. I had assumed during my extensive research on all of this, that those screws used the 6-32 size, which is pretty much the smallest i could find out there. Many pointed out the RC/Model Airplane hobby shops, but nothing i could find out where i live. Those 4 screws differ from everything else in the case. I thought they would be the M3 type screw (6-32), which on the wiki for pc-screws, had said they were commonly used on most mobos. But anyway, i got those off with the right screwdriver, and that was where the 'grueling' part came in.
The NB heatsink came off after 5 minutes of careful wiggling/rocking/twisting to the left and right. I never once PULLED UPWARD, until it was VERY LOOSE, in fear that i would crack the NB die, because if that happened, well, the mobo would basically have become nothing more than a good coffee cup stand). The SB took about 20 minutes since it was cemented on there pretty good. I had to use a wrench and lock both sides of it on there, and then again, just twisted to the left n right carefully, because my hands/fingers were too big to get a grip on the heatsink it uses. Finally, it came off, and i was good to go, but my goodness.....
...not to sound to harsh here, but man, that original paste it had was just terrible, HU16E. This Pro-E i have is the brownish colored one, and so, it had this pink, bubble gum stuff, that was VERY sticky and hard, and i can now see why these heating issues were taking place. Also, the HS itself wasnt as tight as when i finally put it all back. I used alcohol and qtip swab, and also your toothpick method of scraping from the outside, in, to form a clump, which worked well, but the thinner residue afterward was a real hassle to get off there, both on the HS and the NB die/SB surface. Used a butterknife on the HS, but only soft and non-metallic stuff on the NB die, and just kept wiping with alcohol and a microfiber pad for what felt like an eternity until it just basically dissolved and got that nice mirror finish. I used 4 of the 6-32 washers between the stock screw/spring/washer, and believe it or not, it fit very well. It's not loose, the screws head doesnt go through it at all, and once it was scerwed in nice n tight, there was no play at all, so it worked out really well. I mean, at most while it was loose, was probably just a micro millimeter of space while it was around the screws shaft, but again, once it was in there it was tight as can be. I used Arctic Cooling MX-4, since it one of the best out there and i liked the fact it was non-conductive. From what i have read about pastes, metallic-based compounds just arent necessary in this day and age anymore. Also replace the paste on the CPU cooler too.
So i fired up, and well...checked the bios temps, and there ya have it. Went from 82 degrees, down to 48! That definitely made it all worth it. Now i can finally do some gaming/hd content without having to worry about it going into the 90s. It hasnt even exceeded 60 on load, so all is well for sure Also have an antec spot fan set on medium and aimed right over the NB and added a 200mm fan on the top of case, acting as exhaust, so im sure that all plays a part too.
Honestly, though, i really hope MSI is NOT using that paste anymore, because it really is just....well.....ill just say it's BAD lol. It sure as hell would work awesome for some kind of adhesive or glue that is for sure lmao. Maybe MSI should hold onto to that stuff, and give the glue market some competition lol. But yea, as a thermal compound, umm...i just sure hope they switched to a good type of paste for all their future mobos, especially the z68s. I also don't believe that the NB/SB heatsink ever needed a combo type deal, via the heat pipe, as this just creates more tedium. Heck, i dont even think the SB even needs a HS on it, as it doesn't even give off much heat at all. Mine is barely lukewarm to the touch. Not to mention, when taking it off, the heat pipe tends 'move/bend' a bit, and this means the heatsinks on either side will not match up well, or be perfectly parallel when you seat them back on the board. I had to keep bending it gently and standing it on my table til all 4 pegs on the bottom would touch, this way i would know that it'd reseat properly. I hope in the future that MSI will scrap that whole linked HS set-up.
As i stated before, love the board, and the TIM issue was the only issue i had with it, and now since that is resolved, i have no gripes whatsoever. Down the line, ill probably get a z68 soon, and wouldn't mind at all going with MSI, but id like to be assured first that some changes were made to the chipset cooling, because even though this was all a good learning experience for me, it is not something i want to go through again lol.
But hey, thanks a bunch for all of your advice HU16E and other mods as well. I was going to go with that Thermalright HS, and your posts (past and present) convinced me otherwise and the temps are down to what others got them to WITH that same aftermarket heatsink, so you saved me 30USD

K8N Neo2 Chipset cooling and 1.8 BIOS/temps issue

Hi, Not really a problem thread, more some resolutions I want to share (didn't have much luck finding these answers so thought this might help someone...)
First - I've replaced my chipset cooler with the Vantec CCB-A1C (Copper). I think mine is a fairly late revision board (though I forgot to record/photograph the chip while it was bare ) but the stock HS had the usual rubbish tiny spot of gunk slightly off centre. Gave it a nice (thin but even) layer of AS5 before fitting the Vantec and quite happy with the results: The Vantec is actually considerably louder than the stock fan but by using Speedfan to throttle it back to 50% it becomes almost silent and the chipset temp hardly rises above 26C now (32C idle rising to 40+ under load previously).
And on the temps issue - I flashed the official 1.8 BIOS a little while ago and was disturbed to see my CPU temp go from high 30s to around 19C! There was no way that could have been correct (at least 10 degrees lower than ambient? I'm running an XP-90 but it's not magic!).
So I've been looking for news on these 1.9 bioses and popped in here http://www.lejabeach.com/MSIK8N/k8nneo2.html and found the 1.8F bios. Have flashed and now my CPU is reporting 26C which is at least a bit more like it! My system temp is stable at ~38C, but I have no idea of the location of that sensor so there could be other factors keeping that one high.
One question - does anyone have a definitive list of settings/temp offsets etc for Speedfan? And maybe some diagrams showing sensor locations? /hopeful
Apologies if any of this is old news of course!
My Specs:
Antec TrueBlue 480W
A64 3500+ Winchester w/XP-90
K8N Neo2 Platinum
1GB Corsair TwinX-XL
Club3d 6800GT w/Arctic NV5 rev2
Twin Maxtor 160GB SATA Raid 1
Creative Audigy 2

are you looking at your bios or are you using something like motherboard monitor?
oh yeah.. btw.. the case temp thermometer is top left... i discovered this with a 120mm fan pushing air over places on the motherboard

Cpu and chipset cooling,recommendations?

Trying to figure out what the best HS is for a 3400 on the K8N and chipset cooler. Stock HS running about 35-41 sys temp and 40-51 cpu (Idle/load). sitting at 41 sys and 45cpu right now, weird.... Its all in a coolermaster "stacker?" case. Good airflow (1x120, 2x80 front and 1x80 side intake, 1x120, 3x80 out...) Going to add the "crossblower" fan as soon as I can find it in stock. Had thoughht about the coolermaster hyper 6 but its huge, would have to tie it off to the psu plate or something to keep it from shifting I think
I was looking at the ZALMAN CNPS7000A-AlCu
http://www.newegg.com/app/viewProductDesc.asp?description=35-118-108&catalog=23&manufactory=BROWSE
I like the idea of quiet but summer is coming up and temps rise.... I also was thinking of running a duct from an 80 on the back or side to the HS fan as in intake and I dont think you can do it with the zalman. Any ideas? Not looking for a 92mm tornado setup, have to please the wife...
the chipset cooler gets me, have never bought one. Would like to be able to get one with a fan and plug into the board. Any thoughts on which one will work best?

Check some of the signatures here on the nVidia Athlon64 section of the Forum. That will give you a good idea of the Heatsink/fan combinations that are used!
I think the stock HSF is O.K., and I personally use the Zalman 7000AlCu....but there are other good ones!
P.S. while playing around yesterday....I opened the case up and put an additional fan on the exposed areas and it definitely dropped my temps about 8 deg. I'm thinking of adding a side case fan to help ventilation. I've got the Lian-Li PC-65 black aluminum case.

Chipset cooling

Has anyone found a good chipset cooler for the K7N2 Delta L? I have found a few that look pretty good but dont know about compatibility. I like the swiftech and the thermalright models but dont know if they will fit on the mobo. Thanks.

I'm with Deathstalker Iceburg is great i use it in all my PC's an Vantec has never let me down

Stock AMD cooler

I would like to know if Stock AMD cooler (that comes with Box'ed CPU) is enough to overclocking CPU a bit. What about temperatres using that stock heatsink???

What are you trying to achieve w/ OC'ing? A lot of it depends on how far you want to OC and what your existing system is capable of.
IMHO the stock retail HSF is actually quite good if used with high quality thermal compound (ie. Arctic Silver). However, you'll need to keep in mind the overall air circulation in your case. Best bet is to take incremental steps with your existing system and monitor the temperatures (be advised of the inaccurate temperature readings with the current BIOS).
In my particular situation, I didn't notice too much of a difference going from the stock retail HSF to the Zalman CNP7000A-Cu, but there are a lot of folks who have benchmark numbers posted in this forum that can show significant benefits. Again, YMMV.
IMHO cooler is better, and the expense of the aftermarket cooling option was worth the peace of mind. Besides, it LOOKS cooler!
Good luck!
Sharkbait

Noise? Chipset cooler?

Hi..
I Got this serious problem that last week my MEGA 865 started being REALLY noisy.
In the start is though it was the cpu coolers, but when i checked today, it was the chipset cooler under the "metal" thing.
Is it possible to remove the metal thing where the card reader and hdd is hanging? But would that help maybe to clean the cooler if i could get into it?
The problem is that my fatty fingers is able to get all in there, so that would be a great help ^^

Hi, I had a similar problem with my chipset cooler on the 180 although my fan was just DOA . Anyhow, if the fan is the same on the 865 it is an ADDA fan. You can get a replacement in the CompUsa branded chipset cooler bundle at the store for $9.99 it is super silent and spins at the same RPM as the stock fan.
The downside is that you will have to "hardwire" or use an adapter off of your HD power plug to power the fan.
Be aware that there are two versions of the fan in the cooler bundle. One has a sticker on the top of the fan and that is the one that you want, the other is not an ADDA fan so I dont know what the noise will be like. The sticker is a teal color with white lettering on it.
Oh, this all assumes that you live in the U.S. and that you dont mind disassembling the HD cage to get to the cooler (easy work).

Vantec Iceberg / K7N2 Delta-ILSR

Has Anybody replaced the K7N2 Delta-ILSR stock
heatsink and fan with a Vantec Iceberg Ifso
whats it like and did it fit ok ?
I originally got the Vantec just for the fan
to replace the stock one like twistedbrowntucker
and others have done .....
System Fan Replacement (MS-6570)
It's so well made and a hefty piece of copper
that im now considering doing a direct swap to
the Vantec but i dont want the hassle of removing
the motherboard if im going to have problems
Thanks
Toolz

Well i finally got my backside in gear and fitted it
The sprung posts on the stock heatsink fly when
you release them,I lost and found one 4 feet
away from the case ...
It's silent so no more lifting the cover every few
weeks to shut it up with a drop of oil like the
stock fan i hope..
I was a little disappointed at the Vantec fan only
being two wires without a fan speed sensor but
the quality of build and the silence make up for
it ........
Toolz

Passive chipset cooling on K8N Neo2 Platinum?

Hi,
I would like to hear from anyone with experience from replacing the active MSI HS on a MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum with a passive one, Zalman NB47J for example?
- Does the Zalman NB47J fit or is there another HS better suited?
- Are there problems with the VGA card since the AGP slot is so close?
- Heat problems. Would you recommend passive chipset cooling on K8N Neo2 Platinum?
I am not an overclocker but would like my system to be quiet.
Cheers
About to build:
Fortron PSU 350W FSP350-60PN
MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum
AMD64 Winchester 3000+
Thermalright XP-90
Powercolor 9800 PRO

Baskerville,
No problem mounting the Zalman NB47J
and no heatproblems for me so far ( with some good chassi airflow / ventilation )
The problem is the limited space between the cooler and the Graphic card.
I had to bend a couple of the zalman fins, to be able to mount my 6600GT card.
If not- the Grahpic card components hits the Zalman cooler.
It may work with some other passive cooler that´s lower then the zalman model.

RS480 chipset cooler compatibility

Alright, you all helped with getting the back plate off with my processor heatsink but now I've got another problem. I've got the my swiftech mcx-159a and that will not mount to this board, the base is too big and doesn't fit the chipset cooler mounting holes. Rather upset about this since I heard great things about the cooler. Thats life though, it doesn't fit. So my question is does anyone know of any after market heatsinks that I could use to replace the passive cooling the board comes with. This case is going to be a file server and have 6 hard drives in it, I don't think passive cooling will be good enough.

Well, I was actually searching for something else and this was the top post that came up in the search. It needed a reply.

Removing K8n neo2 Chipset cooler

In my over excitement to build by new 939 rig, I forgot to remove the chipset cooler and put some AS5 under it (something I always used to do on new builds).
I've since seen on line the pictures of the minute amount that MSI put on them in the factory, so I'm now determined I'm gonna AS5 it. The problem I have is that I've already installed the mobo and am reluctant to remove it again. So my question is, has anybody actually removed the cooler while it was still in the case and how easy was it?
I've had a quick look at the lugs and tried pulling them (not too hard) but it looks like they have some kind of sleeve mechanism on them and I was wondering if there was a trick to pulling them out from the top?
All help appreciated , thanks.

The pins (on my K8N Neo2) holding the NB fan to the motherboard are plastic. Below the mobo, the plastic nub expands. It's a cinch to squeeze the nub with pliers if you have the mobo out. If you were just to pull from above, it may work, but I'd be prepared for breaking the pin. Above the mobo, the pin has an integrated spring that pushes the fan against the chip. I'm not sure the reason for the spring - I doubt the chip expands so I guess it is a bit of an isolation of the vibration of the fan. Or perhaps more simply that the integrated spring+pin is one part, whereas a nut and screw would be two, perhaps more expensive. In any case, if your replacement cooling solution can be attached from above and you don't mind risking breaking the pins, then try pulling from the top -- or just cut them immediately with some end-cut wire nippers.

845G Max - Chipset cooling?

Has anyone installed a chipset cooler on this board?
I'm thinking about the ThermalTake Tiger 1.
Any input/suggestions?
Thanks,
Patrick

You would need to glue it with thermal epoxy since there are no holes in the board.
Why would you need to do it?
A cheaper and less destructive solution could be to get a cheap 40mm or 50mm fan and screw it on the existing heatsink.

MSI Z87 MPower Max-Chipset cooler-Passive,Mosfet cooler-Passive : what is that?

MSI Z87 MPower Max
specs are :
Chipset cooler-Passive,
Mosfet cooler-Passive
What does that mean for me as a buyer? is this coin for me?
thank u guys for help.

i found on this link those specs : http://uk.hardware.info/productinfo/186919/msi-z87-mpower-max#tab:specifications
tab : Cooling / Overclocking
Other boards have active cooling, so i dont know what exactly passive means for me. Asking so i dont buy cooler which is not good for board.

Better?? Stock chipset cooler or Vantec IceBerg on Neo 2 Plat

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