Blending in an image
can somebody please tell me how to blend two images together. For example if i put a person from one photo into another photo and they are standing in grass, how do i make it look like they are standing in the grass, not on it. thanks for any help.
Charles,
You might also try using one of the grass brushes in the default brush set as your cloning brush tip.
Edit: ...errr...I guess that's kind of what Mark is saying...
Terri
Similar Messages
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Blending 32-bit images into panorama clips brightness in CC (Windows)
Hi all,
I'm running Photoshop CC on Windows and am trying to stitch a HDR panorama. I have several 32-bit HDRI images, and I can open them individually and see that the full range of brightness is present by reducing the exposure and seeing the detail come up in the bright areas.
However when I try to run them through Photomerge, I end up with an image that has the brightness clipped - reducing the exposure no longer brings out the highlights in the bright areas.
The culprit seems to be the auto-blending part of the process.
How can I blend 32-bit images to end up with a panorama that has the same dynamic range as the original images? There doesn't seem to be much point having panorama support for 32-bit images if it clips the dynamic range. Am I doing something wrong?
Thanks in advance
-MatthewIt's been out for months.
You're using CC, not CC 2014 -- it may already be installed, and you're just launching the wrong version. -
Photoshop freezes when using Auto-Blend Layers - Stack Images
I used to have CS5 on my computer, after which I used the CS6 trial, and I never had any problems when stacking images using Auto-Blend Layers -> Stack Images. However, I recently purchased a subscription to Adobe Creative Cloud and after uninstalling the old PS versions and installing Cloud, Photoshop freezes every time I try to stack images.
My computer has very good specs, runs Windows 7, and both the OS and PS are up to date.
Why is PS freezing? What can I do to fix the problem?Sure, here you go:
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Thanks for your help. -
Blending edges of image with underlying layer
I want to paste an image into a another image. (like adding a person from one photo to another photo) However, when I paste the image into a layer on top of the destination image, the edges of the top layer are sharp and obvious.
Is there a way to softly blend just the edges of a top layer with the layer below so that it is less obvious that a Paste has occurred?Welcome to the forum.
For this, I add a Layer Mask to the overlying image. That Layer Mask will then be worked on to soften the edges.
Depending on your exact overlying image, it might be constructed from Selection>Load Selection>Layer 2 (or whatever) Transparency, then hitting Q (QuickMask) and either Painting in the edges, or just running a Gaussian Blur to that QuickMask. The choice of exact method(s) will be dictated by that overlying image and what it consists of.
Good luck,
Hunt -
Blending with background image question
Hello,
I'm trying to recreate a similar graphic to this one, which was done in CorelDraw.
I've played around with blending modes (normal, multiply etc...) and overprint on the pink crosses, but can't get them to look similar (or exactly the same, which is the goal).
The closes I've gotten was putting one cross in overprint, and another one without overprint and set to 75% transparency. But that way the pink isn't as consistent as I'd like it to be.
When using blending modes or overprint the black (the shirt on the left) completely downs out the pink. It should be visible (you can see a slight grey tint where the black is, doesn't show up in the pic well) but it shouldn't overpower the pink.
What am I missing here?Blending modes and CMYK can produce unexpected and sometimes unpleasant results, so you might try all RGB color and an RGB Transparency Blend Space and let the conversion to CMYK happen on export or output. You'll just want to make sure you don't get too far out-of-gamut—if you turn on Separation Preview you'll see the conversion to CMYK
So here my background image is RGB even though it looks like grayscale, the pink cross is an RGB color, and the blending mode is Hard Light:
Or a pink with a darker value: -
How do I blend background and image?
I have created a water background image. I would like to add a rock image. The result would look like
How can this be done in Photoshop CS6?Good day!
Could you please post the two images you refer to (sections or low resolution if you prefer)?
What are you after all specifically?
The distorsions could be achieved with an application of Filter > Distort > Displace and an appropriate Displacement Map, Filter > Liquify, …
For the effect of the Reflections and light refractions combinations of Smart Object instances, Adjustment Layers, … seem possible.
Regards,
Pfaffenbichler -
I like to fluently blend in more images , When i use the gradient tool and hold down the shift key to draw a line , i see no fluent transition of the two images, instead part of image fades into a tranpanrant ' check board' layer instead.
What goes wrong here?
Blending Multiple Images in Photoshop | IceflowStudios - YouTube
I am refering to the tutorial above..Yes, I understand it's not always easy to grasp to what goes on on the other side.
I already tried the above though nothing seemed to work
I had to use the paint brush as well but in reverse setting to get the desired result. If I dont use paint brush the checkboard appears thus it wont merg/ blend the images.
I don't understand how the guy in the video did this but with photoshop cc 2014 it seems to work different, apparantly. -
How to make image cut-out seamless
Hi everyone. I recently cut an image out and plonked it onto another background, but you can still see the white edge where I cut the image out. How do I get seamless blending of one image into another? A video link would really be helpful to actually watch how it's done. thank you very much.
Here's a nifty trick...
If the pic suits, use the wand to select the transparent background, then 'expand' the selection using 'select/modify/expand' by 1or 2 pixels, then 'feather' by same number and 'delete' that selected portion.
Now put it on that background...
That is the simplest version of the technique, you can tweak it but in principle, a soft edge will look 100% better, and you can even colour the fringe if you think about it. -
I've learned most of what I know about PSE from a certain magazine from England. But in their step by step instructions, you are told to use this or that blending mode, but not why.
Are there any threads on here that expalin what the different modes do and when to use what? I've tried to do search but didn't work.
Thanks
Ricihhttp://www.ronbigelow.com/articles/blend1/blend1.htm
The above is a set of tutorials that includes tables listing practical uses of blend modes for photographers.
His examples are done using photoshop but the blend modes are the same in both Photoshop and Photoshop Elements. Layer masking is used to constrain the blend mode effects to portions of the photos. With elements, you will need to use an adjustment layer so you can hijack the mask. If you are just going to blend the image with itself, create a levels adjustment layer...leave it at the default setting and click ok to accept. Adjust the levels adjustment layer's blend mode and opacity if desired. This will act just as if you were working on a duplicate of the image...and you have a mask.
If blending two different images, use a clipping mask/group. Here's a link on info about using clipping masks/clipping groups...same thing different name.
http://www.photokaboom.com/photography/learn/Photoshop_Elements/layers/layer_groups_clippi ng_masks/1_layer_groups_clipping_masks.htm
Other tutorials that cover blend modes...
http://www.northlite.net/ps/blend.htm
http://www.photoshopessentials.com/photo-editing/layer-blend-modes/
http://www.photoshoptut.com/photoshops-blend-modes/
http://www.psdtop.com/blog/basic/understanding-blending-modes/
Still one more...don't read #20 as it covers advanced masking (Blend If) that isn't available in Photoshop Elements.
http://www.teamphotoshop.com/articles-The-Techniques-Layer-Blend-Modes-Explained!-5,8,65a. html
Edit: That last link you'll have to copy and paste it into your browser to get it to work. It's not linking correctly. -
Trying to fit "long" images into Widget Gallery
Hi-
I have several png's that are around 800px wide and 120px high.
I'm struggling with trying to find a way to fit into gallery widget. I've tried several things and can't seem to widget to be at that dimension so the entire image is visible.
I've researched the forums and can'ts seem to find an answer.
Please tell me what I am missing.
Best,
MattI could get 2 images 800X120 px into the gallery widget to show completely. The widget margin had to be 45 because of the min size restrictions of the widget. So if you change the background color of the widget to be same as that of the page it is on, the extra space of the widget will blend and your images will look 800X120 as they are supposed to. Is this what you were trying to to?
-
Best way to stack images?
I'm doing macro photopgraphy and need to do a lot of focus stacking. I'm trying to determine the best way to stack images in PS, but there seems to be a lot of conflicting information out there. I've sucessfully stacked images using two different methods:
Way # 1
file -> scripts -> load files into stack
edit->auto-align layers
edit->auto-blend layers (stack images, seamless tones and colors)
Way # 2
file -> automate -> photomerge (uncheck blend images together)
edit->auto-blend layers (stack images, seamless tones and colors)
The second way produces a much better result, IMHO. Is that the best way to stack images in PS?
Thanks for your advice.I hear Photoshop can do it, but I've not tried it.
I do have two quite accomplished macro photographer friends who swear by the standalone program Helicon Focus. They've shown me some quite good results.
-Noel -
I recently downloaded the trial version of Photoshop Cs5. I haven't had many problems and I like it a lot except for ONE thing! I cannot figure out how to blend layers! When I upload my first layer (my image) it shows in the layers palette. But when I upload my second layer (texture) it not only jumps on top of my first layer in the layers palette, but it ALSO jumps on top of my first layer (the image) in the work area. I have watched a lot of the Photoshop tutorials and I've noticed that when they upload their second layer it shows SEPARATELY from the first image in the work area. They then click on the second layer and drag it over onto the first layer and then they are ready to start working on blending. For the fact that my second layer jumps on top of my first layer in the work area like it does, I am not able to follow along with the tutorials! I have also tried and tried to figure out how to manage to blend by trying lots of techniques and options in the program but nothing will work. I use textures and depend on blending A LOT with my editing so this has been very discouraging! I have used other editing programs and usually with them, after you duplicate your first layer and then upload another you are able to blend with no problem. So I do not understand this at all! You can even blend with no problem by duplicating your first layer in Photoshop Elements 10.
If someone could help me with this, it would be MUCH appreciated! Thank you!No, you seem to have understood me very well! The thing is, I have used Photoshop, but I'm not a professional with Photoshop and with some parts of the program it can be very confusing and hard to understand! I'll try to be a little more precise!
When I open Photoshop Cs5, I click on "open" in the File menu to bring in my image into the work area. Once I do that, it appears in the layers palette. I then go to File and click "open" again to bring in my texture (to blend with my image). The texture jumps right on top of my image in the layers palette and it ALSO jumps on top of my first layer in the work area. (I have made sure to "unlock" my layer in the layers palette.) In the tutorials, when they open their second layer it comes in as separate from the first layer in their work area. So, therefore, I have been unable to follow along with the tutorials.
*Is the second layer (the texture) supposed to lay on top of the first layer in the work area??* It certainly doesn't by what they show in the tutorials on Photoshop Cs5! They show it coming in as separate from the first layer in the work area.
When you say "Select all Ctr/Cmd a" what exactly do you mean?? Sorry! Like I said, I'm not completely amateur, but I'm no professional either! And compared with those who have used Photoshop for a very long time, yes, I'm probably a dumby!
I think I have an idea of what you mean and I'm going to try it.
Thank you so much for your time and help! I can certainly use all the help I can get! With layering anyway. -
For Best Control of Fading/Blending?
I'm using PE 6 on an iMac.
As a relatively new user of PE, I've searched through tutorials and other sources for ways to "taper" a photo (into a white background or into an adjoining photo) -- variously labeled as "blending", "merging", or "fading".
Almost every how-to that I've seen suggests using an adjustment layer/layer mask as a starting point. But, beyond that the suggested choice of taper tool varies; the gradient tool, Gaussian blur, feathering, and one or another brush are mentioned.
In my experiments so far, I haven't found a really good taper method. It may be a matter of not using the right taper tool or something else. What I'm finding is that a gradual gradient eats too much into the part of the photo I want to be sharp whereas a rapid gradient doesn't stretch out far enough.
I want to be able to *start* the taper at a pretty precise place along the border of the photo with a relatively short transition to fading and, once past this initial transition, I want to be able to control the distance to complete white.
If I could do this I think my problem would be solved. But, maybe this is asking too much. I hope that I've managed to clearly get at the problem I'm having. I'd very much appreciate hearing any tips and comments.
Davedave393 wrote:
Terri,
I haven't found a way to achieve the effect you mention: setting the gradient mode to "multiply" makes no difference. Only one side of the photo continues to be effected.
You might be dragging the gradient tool too long. For just edging a photo, you only need to drag out a millimeter or two.
I wasn't sure if you are attempting to edge a photo with white or blend a photo into a background. So, I did up for both. These screen shots were made using Photoshop CS3 but I did it using an adjustment layer mask clipping group. There shouldn't be any difference although my UI is going to look different.
This is image masked on four sides to blend into background image. Notice the Adjustment layer is the base of the clipping group. (Don't mind the my untouched eye that's in the file. I got carried away and highlighted transparency. I don't think this matters since I'm using the Multiply blend mode. I tend to keep mine checked. ) Notice that I have the style icon for linear gradient checked in the options bar and that the color of the gradient is black and white.)
In the above, I first selected the eye image (Ctrl click icon in layers palette on Windows; Command click icon in layers palette on Mac.) Next, I inverted the selection. Selection<Invert. I next, highlighted the adjustment layer; then filled the mask with black. No difference as of yet in the image. I did this to make sure I got everything outside of my eye black...so hidden.
Next, I alt clicked (on mac I believe you opt click) the line between the adjustment layer (marked base) and the eye. This will put them into a clipping group.
Highlight the adjustment layer mask in the layers palette again.
Set up your gradient tool as I have marked above...black and white; linear; style: Multiply; Opacity 100%.
Hold in your shift key...this will give you an even edge. Now take your gradient tool and drag it from one of the sides to wards the interior of your photo about two millimeters. Your edge should be fading into the background.
Repeat the above step for each of the other sides.
Now, if you wanted a photo that is white edges like this:
edit: There's a drop shadow added to make it pop. (Notice it's added to the photo layer not the adjustment layer.)
It's done a little different. Notice that the photo is now the base in the clipping grouping. To do this, I selected the eye image just as I did in the above steps except I did not invert the selection. I highlighted the adjustment layer to select it and it with black. (The above is the finished image after the mask is inverted. Your mask and image will look like the next screenshot.)
As I pull the gradient the image initially looks like this as I pull my gradient:
I know looks messed up. Once I am happy with what I have edges. I invert the mask (Ctrl I...I believe it's Command I on the mac.) You can go back and forth on the invert...it won't hurt anything.
Edit: I did it this way because the mask needs to be white in order for the Multiply blend mode to work. -
Doing macro "stacks" in CS6 using "load images as layers to PS", then align and blend process. Images of white flowers on black background turn out garrish/blownout/OOF. All other image stacks are working fine (of colored subjects). But white on black are blowing out. Any suggestions?
I do "stacks" of macro images, take up to 30 images of a flower focusing at different parts of the flower in each, to get an image that is fully sharp. I load them all into lightroom first, and then "edit in PS, load images as layers."
When all images are in CS6, I highlight all the layers to be included in the blend/align process. I click "edit align" and then "edit blend", and wait while PS blends all of those layers together. The resulting image will be a blend of all the sharpest points of each layer, thus a fully sharp macro image/
Have been doing this for 3 years in PS and never had any problems. Suddenly when I was doing a stack of 25 images of white tulips against a black background, the resulting blended image was totally blown out white, OOF, like a huge splat of white on a black and slightly greenish background. The images did not blend properly.
I've done many tests of stacks using color images over the past few days, meaning NOT white subjects on black backgrounds, and they work fine. It is specifically a white object against a black background stack that is not working. It doesn't matter whether I try to stack 3 images or 30 images, it does not work.
There is something wrong in the blend part of the process, of specifically images of white objects on black, that isn't working. -
Hi!
I have 13 000+ BW images, some are ok, some are too dark and some are too light. Is there any way to separate file according their general darknes so i could run a different batch curve to images that need adjustmets. I know it's a rough way but at least some kind of corrections would be made. Hand adjusting everything is not an option.
I used to be able to do this waaaaaay back when there was a wonderful app called MarkScout Markzware (mac os 9).
Any thoughts?
jukkaI'd use auto levels at first.
Next - create image copy on layer above, equalize it, make transparent (20-40%) and blend with original image layer in screen or luminosity mode. Delivers pretty good result, given it's fully automatic. I prefer to keep the layers unflattened, so it's possible to make adjustments later, if something is really wrong.
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