Blocky Blues via Black Point? HELP!

Hi. I am working through a wedding shoot, and there is one particular shot where if I boost the Black Point anything higher than 2, the shadows in one guest's suit go from I'd say 80% blue to blocky, blotchy black in a matter of like 0.1 units of Black point, and it gets progressively worse (i.e. more pixels bet crushed to black as I move the slider ever so slightly.
This shot is outdoors, at ISO 200 with a Canon 7D, and I have not noticed this behaviour with any of the other photos, blue suits or not. I have NOT pushed the exposure, it is properly exposed (I think I added +0.02 or something).
Thinking maybe the raw was corrupted, I opened the same photo in Lightroom 3 trial, I get nothing close to this level of "noise" even if I crank the Blacks up, it's a nice even darkening, with no blotches.
There is no option for reprocessing the image in the Raw Fine tuning (at 7D defaults btw) and even if I try to force a reprocessing via the "Photos" menu it says there are none that need to be done.
I just find it odd that my blues would die this way on this particular photo ONLY in Aperture (as I said, I haven't noticed it on any others).
Weird. What gives? Any ideas?
Message was edited by: pilotguy74

Hi Tony,
Thanks for the suggestion. After I posted (isn't that always the case!) I thought about messing with those (Boost and Hue Boost) sliders. There was no effect really. I just tried again and no effect.
I've played with the Blue curve in the shadows area, and have the photo looking good enough (not a super critical shot). You can only see a slight blocking in deep blue shadows now at 100%.
I just find it odd, that's all since it's only one photo, and LR doesn't exhibit the same behaviour...

Similar Messages

Help!! I'm using a Mid 2012 MBP retina. for the past 2 years my write speeds has been consistently on 400MB/s via black magic test. but now it only have 100MB/s going down to 80MB/s. what should I do???? getting slower...

Help!! I'm using a Mid 2012 MBP retina 2.3Ghz i7 with 8GB of ram 256SSD. for the past 2 years my write speeds has been consistently on 400MB/s and up via black magic test. but now it only have 100MB/s going down to 80MB/s. what should I do???? I have already cleaned and even restored my MBP still it's on 100MB/s. please help. I have to finish tasks on a timely manner.

No. This requires completely repartitioning the SSD. You can do that only by using the Network Recovery method or the method I outlined. My method preserves all your data and doesn't require doing a slow Network Recovery. But if you wish to do that instead. The purpose of the whole exercise is to "clean" the SSD of garbage collected during use that tends to cause the SSD to slow down as you've described.
Install OS X Using Internet Recovery
Be sure you backup your files to an external drive or second internal drive because the following procedure will remove everything from the hard drive.
Boot to the Internet Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND-OPTION- R keys until a globe appears on the screen. Wait patiently - 15-20 minutes - until the Recovery main menu appears.
Partition and Format the hard drive:
Select Disk Utility from the main menu and click on the Continue button.
After DU loads select your newly installed hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from the drop down menu to one. Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to GUID then click on the OK button. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Security button. Set Zero Data - one-pass, click on the OK button. Click on the Partition button and wait until the process has completed. Quit DU and return to the main menu.
Reinstall OS X: Select Reinstall OS X and click on the Install button. Be sure to select the correct drive to use if you have more than one.
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible because it is three times faster than wireless.
This should restore the version of OS X originally pre-installed on the computer.

Black point

Hi,
After upgrading Aperture to 3.3 all my photo's appear be less bright in "view" mode. Also photo is indicated as too much black, which cann't be adjusted via the black point key in the adjustment field. Anyone got this problem also?
regards, Arnold

Arnold,
you can now adjust the brightness individually for the Viewer and the Browser in the Preferences;
Preferences > Appearance
Adjust the "Viewer Brightness" slider and the "Full Screen Brightness" slider. Does this help?
Added: How do you try to set the Black Point? In the "Exposure" brick? Have you tried to type directly into the number field besides the black point slider? In what way does i not work for you?
Regards
Léonie

Blue to black screen at boot up.

I'm running 10.6.8 Mac Pro and getting blue to black screen at boot up. I am only able to log in by safe mode only, please help...

Do you get:
Chime
gray screen
Dark Apple
Spinner
Spinner spins for the usual amount of time
screen goes blue or black at the point where you would normally login?
That is exactly when the graphics card is shifted to automatic. Although that also is the point when added kernel extensions have been loaded and are made active, users report this symptom often correlates with graphics card failure.
Safe Mode does not use the driver or automatic mode, so being able to operate in Safe Mode adds credence to graphics card failure.

White and black point vs ??

I never know which forum to post these things, so I'll start with the photographers.
 
 These three shots are as follows: (1) the camera raw version, (2) where I moved the sliders from the ends to approximately the beginning/end of the major portion of the histogram, and (3) using the threshold control to find the white and black points in the main part of the picture.
 
 Then, in the two adjusted versions, I lightened the image with the curves control.
 
 In both these cases, I used the grey dropper to touch the same spot on one of the rocks, to get the apparent neutral point.
 
 It seems to me that the threshold method to find the white and black points is preferred, based on the overall color and appearance of the finished adjustment.
 
 But, I've found on some images where the histogram has missing black and missing white, if I adjust the sliders to these two ends, I get pretty much the same outcome, as far as the contrast, color, and grey point.
 
 Could I have some advice on the preferred method to use in handling my image adjustments? Doing it the threshold method takes more time, and sometimes it's difficult to find the white and black points, or even the grey point.
 
 Thanks.
 
 Al
 
 
<a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=1SlEeG9kfwzD34gVOEcCbg7Ktp83p3" /></a>
<img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/1SlEeG9kfwzD34gVOEcCbg7Ktp83p3_thumb.jpg" border="0" />
 
 
<a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=1tIEs4eAyKz4sxamyVaYRlKjTIIfKj" /></a>
<img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/1tIEs4eAyKz4sxamyVaYRlKjTIIfKj_thumb.jpg" border="0" />
 
 
<a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=17K3ewFXsGo4K2uH5TGfO06CdVayyn1" /></a>
<img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/17K3ewFXsGo4K2uH5TGfO06CdVayyn1_thumb.jpg" border="0" />

Yes the image was purposely underexposed. What I was trying to accomplish was to speed up the shutter speed to remove the slight blurring and compensate by pulling data from the shadows. Even though the lens has an image stabilizer the amount of light wasn't enough for a proper sharp shot.
this image is before touch up
These two images are F/5.6, 1/20, ISO 800
After touch up
Better lit scene but shows slight motion blur
This last image is F/5.6, 1/4, ISO 800
I believe that I will have to wait next year and hope I have a faster lens by then. I just don't think the 28mm-135mm f/3.5-5.6 lens is fast enough. I was trying this without a tripod to get in tighter.
Also I was taking these shots without the flash to get the drama of the tree lights.
What I would have prefer is a shutter speed of 1/125 or better as it helps with my hands shaking I believe the slowest should be 1/60
And the lower the ISO the better for noise.
These preferences are what I am used to with my Canon G3 that does not have IS.
I am getting so off track here, lol. But anyways, here are the pictures.

Icon on call out screen blue and black box

Hi I have a bb curve 8330 I'm getting a blue and black box blue on top and diagonal line then black on the bottom when I make a call out this just showed up. Its on the right hand side top. Also it goes away when I put speaker phone on. I have had my phone for a while and never seen it. Please help it really frustrates me I cant find what it is any where. Thanks

Sounds like you may be experiencing a kernel panic. (See What is a kernel panic http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1392?viewlocale=en_US) Dr. Smoke's FAQ Resolving Kernel Panics (http://www.thexlab.com/faqs/kernelpanics.html) offers suggestions for working with it.
cornelius

Problem with Black Point adjustment

When making Black Point adjustments (with hot and cold highlights enabled) my photos suddenly turn completely blue. If I hold click the slider button, I can see the photo again as expected.
I also notice this histogram is empty.
I have the same problem with both my Nvidia and Radeon graphics cards.
This problem has started since my upgrade to 10.5.7
Has anyone else experience this? ...am I doing something wrong?

I think I have found the problem. For some reason the Black Point values were incrementing in much higher values than before.

Colors not printing correctly. Only blue and black work.

I just got a new HP OfficeJet all in one inkjet 8620 printer. The colors aren't printing correctly. Everything comes out light blue with black lettering. I tried installing new cartridges (genuine HP) and also tried gently shaking the cartridges. But the problem persists.

Hi @Iolanthe ,
I see that you are experiencing issues with the colors not printing correctly. I would like to help you resolve this issue.
I have provided a document with some steps to try to see if that will resolve the issue.
Fixing Print Quality Problems for the HP Officejet Pro 8610, 8620, 8630, 8640, and 8660 e-All-in-One...
Please let me know the results of the Print Quality Diagnostic Page?
If the test pages are printing properly, it could be a software issue.
What operating system are you using? Mac OS X: How Do I Find Which Mac OS X Version Is on My Computer?
Check the driver name that is installed for the printer. Make sure it shows just the printer's name.
Click the Apple menu and then click System Preferences. Click Printers & Scanners, highlight the printer name on the left side and on the right side of the screen it should show the printer's name. (Officejet 8620)
If the full printer name isn't listed correctly, delete it and add the printer name back in from the list. Click the - sign to delete the driver and then click the + sign to add the driver, might have to click the drop down to select the printer's name to add it in.
Let me know how the printer name was listed.
From the application, make sure you are selecting the proper paper type.
Try another application to see if you have the same issue.
How is the printer connected? (USB/Ethernet/Wireless)
If you need further assistance, just let me know.
Have a great day!
Thank You.
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos Thumbs Up" on the right to say “Thanks” for helping!
Gemini02
I work on behalf of HP

Aperture2 - Recovery and Black Point adjustments question

I purchased the Aperture2 upgrade and, I'm impressed!!!
I have a question:
In the *Adjustment Tab*:
Two features in the *Exposure area, "Recover and Black Point"*, works sometimes and other times it does not.
There must be a reason for it - I just can't figure out why this happens. One would think that it should work all the time!?
Anyone know?

C and Scott, thanks so much for trying to help this old codger learn new tricks.
All the images I imported into Aperture2 are projects already completed and therefore I won't need to make adjustments to them. I was using them to test and learn the new Aperture2 features.
But, Just in case I ever need to convert a RAW image from A1x to the A2 format I'll know how to do it.
As I said before, as long as my new RAW images that I import directly into A2 have all the features available, I'm a happy camper. I won't be importing any images into A2 until after my shoot this evening, so, do you know if this is the case?

Export changes the black point

I've noticed that when exporting from LR4 (and LR3 for that matter) that on certain photos with deep blacks, the black point gets shifted during the export (for lack of a better term)
By this, I mean that on some of my dark (i.e. night and or low key shots) what I see on the screen in the develop module is a nice even gradient from 0,0,0 to whatever comes out of the shadow. When I switch to Library module, the blacks get a little pixelated in some areas in that view. If I then export the photo the blacks are blocky in the rendered .jpeg.
If I take that same photo and export it to CS5 as a 16 bit .tiff, all my smooth tones are preserved. If I save that file from CS5 for web and devices (at the same resolution as I do for LR, i.e. 1024px wide) then what I see in that CS5 rendered export is what I saw on the screen during my editing.
I had/have this issue with LR3, and work around it by exporting those types of photos with CS5, but it would be nice to not have to play that game.
A while back I asked this same Q re: LR3's export behavior and an employee (Ben Warde I believe) asked for some sample files. I sent them along but alas have heard nothing back.
So, um... can we try again? Has anyone else had this issue? Does LR use a different export method/algorythm than PS "save for web and devices'?
I'm 100% certain it's not a corrupt monitor profile or a calibration issue as it happens on both my calibrated Macs (MBPro and iMac), and when I edit, I see nice smooth gradients from black to shadow, and CS5 makes a nice export, it's just LR that pixelates my darks...
I just want my exported jpegs to be WYSIWYG out of LR, just like they are from PSCS5...

I apologize for asking you to do this again, but please send me sample files. You can contact me at [email protected] (personal email); feel free to use YouSendIt.com, dropbox, etc.
(I suspect what you're seeing is the difference between the Ps and Lr JPEG compression system -- yes, they're different.)

Blue and Black Vertical Lines on Startup then freeze 10.7.3

I have a 2007 MacBookPro. shortly after installing Lion 10.7.3 and VectorWorks 2011 I started getting vertical blue and black lines across my screen on startup. They remain with in the apple while the computer boots and the everything freezes. I tried all of the usual fixes, recovery, safe boot, reset PRAM, battery, etc. Nothing helps. When I tried to boot of a system disc I get a message sating that I need to restart my computer. Upon restart same problem occurs. 2 months ago I took the whole thing apart and cleaned out the guts. Reconnecting all cables back together, I came across, what I think is the camera cable. Since my camera has been erratic, i decided to test the problem with it connected and then disconnected. Connected same problem. Once i unplugged the camera everything went back to normal, until now. The same problem returned. I cleaned out the guts again. This time I unplugged the hard drive to try and boot off the C drive, but still get the same problem. This morning It decided to boot up. I was able to copy my essential files onto an external drive. Any one have any suggestions on repairs or what the problem may be? Hardware, Software? Should I do an erase and install if I can get it to boot off the C drive? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Ogelthrorpe.
Once I was able to boot off the C drive and performed a hardware test of the systems disc only to find nothing wrong??????????????? Since It booted this morning, I am working on it as we speak, everything seems normal except I had to adjust the time and date. Oh, I got a error message upon boot. I don't understand the code in it, but it seemed like the kernel was confused. I am afraid to shut it off and not be able to reboot again.
Unfortunately, no apple store where I now reside!!!!
Thanx

I suddenly have blue and black vertical lines on my screen. This computer is only 3 months old. What can I do?

Starting a few weeks ago I got a cluster of blue and black lines at the bottom righthand corner of my screen. It was frustrating and annoying but I ignored it. Now there is another one closer to the top lefthand side. It's very frustrating as this computer is only 3 months old!! please help!

Take a picture if the problem just in case the aberration does not show in the presence of the technicians.
Ciao.

White point / black point

Just like with Photoshop's Levels and Curves I would like to see a White point and Black point setting ability.

I'm aware of that, but I find that many times it's an easy way (in PS) to determine what I really want to be white (the white of an eye, for instance), at least as a starting point. Using the LR exposure slider to do so is less convenient and doesn't give me that instant and exact control.
Since I am very often using black as a background, it would be convenient to pinpoint that as black.
And now we're into it: why just not call the LR selector what it really is: a Neutral selector? Its shifts colors to neutral grey like in PS.
B.T.W.: I also often use a neutral grey background (18% reflection) and that's where the "White balance selector" is of a very great help.

Black Point Compensation for JPEG export?

Hiya,
I'd like to print photos via the web, and therefore want to export the photos as JPEGs. I just checked the options in the export preset panel, and realised that one can select "Black Point Compensation" as an option for the export.
Does anyone have any experience with this setting? Should one use it, if one doesn't know the printer in use?
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
Regards,
Stephan

Stephan,
I'd like to print photos via the web, and therefore
want to export the photos as JPEGs. I just checked
the options in the export preset panel, and realised
that one can select "Black Point Compensation" as an
option for the export.
Does anyone have any experience with this setting?
It's a fairly reliable fix if your test prints come back with murky shadows.
Should one use it, if one doesn't know the printer in
use?
I don't know of a good way to optimize files for unknown printers. I'd recommend getting a profile for the printer/paper combo used by your lab and soft-proofing on your Mac. Have you calibrated your screen, etc.?
The soft proof will get you in the ballpark. Definitely order small (8x10 or so) test print before laying out long green for a poster-sized one.
Cheers,
Andreas

Adjustment panel: black point disappeared

Today the section that includes black point is no longer visible for some reason. This is one of my most used adjustments. Any idea on how to make it visible again?
Any help most appreciated.
Ken

Please disregard. I clicked on + and then selected exposer and the panel showed back up. Not sure why it went away in the first place.
Ken

Blocky Blues via Black Point? HELP!

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for