Blown out images in ACR 6.7

I previously shot with a Canon 5D and had no problem using ACR.
Now, I purchased a Mark III. The histogram and flashing white highlights are perfectly exposed on camera. (And also in the Canon software). When I open in ACR 6.7 everything is totally blown out. Why? All updates are current for ACR and Photoshop (CS5). Help!

Your ACR tone settings seem like the normal defaults for Process Version 2010. The PV2012 in CS6/ACR7+ or LR 4+ have an automatic slight highlight compression that can’t be turned off, so would look better, and then the toning controls in PV1012 are superior according to most people.
I don’t have a 5D level camera, but according to the manual, ALO is on the second of four setup pages under the Camera settings tab, between ISO and WB. See page 144 in the PDF of the manual available, here:
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_5d_mark_iii#Brochu resAndManuals
There is also Highlight Tone Priority that underexposes in the camera to preserve highlights, then digitally boosts the ISO on darker areas, to even out the exposure. If your pictures were too dark coming into LR that would be the problem but you’re having the opposite issue.
Are you judging your on-camera-screen exposure using the camera’s histogram or just by eyeballing the LCD rendition of the picture and lack of highlight warning blinking?
The Picture Style in the camera can also affect things and if particular colors are being clipped that can be the ACR camera profile you have selected.
Basically turn off everything in the camera that fixes things for JPGs or is some sort of brightness, contrast, or color customization beyond neutral settings (because those affect the in-camera preview, Canon-produced JPGs, but not raw files), and then perhaps set your camera profile in ACR to Camera Standard and see if things match better.
It is possible that your new camera has more dynamic range and ACR isn’t dealing with it any differently than your old camera but you’ll see more things clipped.
Without having the camera and raw files in ACR to play with, it’s hard to guess what might be occurring.
I would recommend updating to the current version of PS, which is either CS6 for $200 before the end of the year or CC which is $20/mo, $10/mo-first-year, to get the newer PV2012 toning model, or buy Lightroom for less than $200 and use Edit In Photoshop with LR Adjustments (rendered into TIFs on the way into PS).

Similar Messages

Blown out colors in acr

hi,
every time I open a picture in camera raw the colors are blown out as shown in here
when I open the image in photoshop everything looks alright...
Can anyone help me with this?

Other than the fact you've got highlight clipping turned on, I don't understand what you are talking about regarding blown colors...the colors look normal. If you are refering to the red clipping indicator showing red in the highlights, just turn clipping off.

Image from LR in blown out more in Bridge Camera Raw

Hello, thanks for reading...
I was just about to post this question, when I think I stumbled upon the answer, but I am not sure... so I decided to post anyway, for input.
After completing adjustments to my .cr2 (Canon 30D) images in LR 2.2, I decided to check my images in Bridge (CS2) Camera Raw, since my client uses that program. The highlights in my images are definitely more blown out than they appear in LR. I determined this by viewing the image with the highlight clipping turned on, and could see much more clipping in Camera Raw. I have turned off automatic tone adjustments in Camera Raw preferences. I am on an 2.4 ghz Intel iMac running 10.5.6, 4 gb ram.
What I finally noticed is that in the Camera Raw "work flow options" I had sRGB EIC61966-1 selected as the color space. When I switched it to ProPhotoRGB, the clipping was nearly identical to LR clipping. My client goes to print in Adobe1998, but that color space setting showed more clipping than LR. With ProPhotoRGB being the LR space, is this causing problems for my client?
I will be the first to admit that the topic of color space confuses me... any suggestions? (Besides the obvious, "read a book/ take a class/ suffer like the rest of us" suggestions...)
Thanks again, Jerry

Most welcome, and good luck.
If you do not get help in the Bridge Forum (do not know who the MOD's are there), please do not hesitate to ask that the post be Moved, to say the Adobe Camera RAW (ACR), or Photoshop Forum. That is easy for a MOD to do.
However, in your specific case, I could see three likely candidates for the post.
Still, Bridge Forum is a great place, and you should get help quickly. If not, just let one of us know, as we stand ready to help you, best we can.
Hunt

When I open images in Photoshop CS6 they are completely blown out and color posterzation like appea

When I open my images in Photoshop CS6 they appear considerably blown out - none of the foreground has color and detail seen here-but you can see a posterize like appearancin the sky. The same thing is happening in Lightroom 5.

The work files are tiffs 16 bit - anything that opens in photoshop has the
same look -jpg,psd etc. My images are printed as digital C print by a lab.
I haven't intentionally changed anything since yesterday when I was editing
images. The appearance is the same in Lightroom where my digital image are
stored. I also have scanned film image that open in adobe camera raw.So
whatever is happening occurs both in Photoshop and lightroom.
You suggest a monitor setting, worth exploring, but could a monitor issue
affect only photoshop/lightroom doc.
Thanks to PhotoRoy

HELP. ............Hi folks hope some one can help me please.Having a problem in Bridge I open my images in ACR, as I open files in a folder and lets say they are labeled in yellow they are all going back to the camera raw default , in other words no ma

HELP. ............Hi folks hope some one can help me please.Having a problem in Bridge I open my images in ACR, as I open files in a folder and lets say they are labeled in yellow they are all going back to the camera raw default , in other words no matter what work I have done, inc cropping they all go back to ,as they came out of camera. What on earth is happening? I am on PS CS6. I might point out everything was working normally up to yesterday, when this first started.
I recently changed computer to 64bit from 32bit, not sure if this causing the problem or not. Any help would be appreciated.

Robert,
Would you be so kind to rephrase your question with concise, precise information and without any "let's say that" hypotheticals? Sorry, I can't quite follow you.
Also please give exact versions of Photoshop CS6 (13.what.what), of Bridge and of your OS.
Thanks.
BOILERPLATE TEXT:
If you give complete and detailed information about your setup and the issue at hand, such as your platform (Mac or Win), exact versions of your OS, of Photoshop and of Bridge, machine specs, what troubleshooting steps you have taken so far, what error message(s) you receive, if having issues opening raw files also the exact camera make and model that generated them, etc., someone may be able to help you.
Please read this FAQ for advice on how to ask your questions correctly for quicker and better answers:
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/419981?tstart=0
Thanks!

Save Image in ACR 5.6 vs. Open/Save from Photoshop CS4

Apologies in advance if this turns out to be cockpit error. Recently started shooting again, after a long hiatus, and boy there have been some changes over the past few years. I feel like Rip Van Winkle.
Was used to early versions of ACR with CS2 and thought I was doing just fine finding my way around a new PC using ACR 5.6 RC with Photoshop CS4, when I processed my first shoot using the two. Followed my old/usual raw workflow with Photomechanic selects -> Bridge -> batch processing with Photoshop, when I noticed the JPEGs PS was saving from my PS Action didn't reflect adjustments I had set in ACR/Bridge.
The Action was pretty simple, just did an open, a few simple adjustments, profile/mode conversion, and a save as JPEG. I tried running the Action two different ways, once from Bridge and once directly in PS, and got the same result.
Scratching my head (this stuff used to work fine), I opened all the images into ACR from Bridge, clicked Select All, then clicked Save Images, and saved them as JPEGs into a folder. This worked, where each JPEG written reflected the crop, WB, exposure/brightness, contrast/black settings I had made through ACR/Bridge.
Any idea what I've overlooked? I tried this using both 32-bit and 64-bit PS. The PC is running Win7 RTM x64. The camera body is a Canon 7D, which is why I installed ACR 5.6 RC. I'm otherwise really tickled with everything. Nice to see the progress made by everyone in the industry while I was away. Thanks in advance...
-David

Dr. Powell wrote:
Any idea what I've overlooked?
If you are running an action during a Batch operation you need to be sure that either you DON'T record ad Open step and select Suppress File Open and Color Profile Warnings in which case the Camera Raw settings in play for a given image will be processed in or make sure you _DO_ record an open step making sure you select the correct workflow settings (color space, resolution, etc) but without making ANY adjustments while recording the open step and make sure you've selected the Override Action Open Command...
It's confusing until you understand what it is your are or not recording...
When you record a an open step while selecting the Workflow settings and NOT making any image adjustments all you are recording is the workflow settings. Then in Batch you tell the Batch to ignore the Open command and only use the Workflow settings...
Otherwise you don't actually need to record an explicit open step...you won't have any absolute control over what Workflow setting are in play-but since the Workflow settings are sticky you can open an image to double check the settings and click Done and then you've set the Workflow settings manually (not in an action).
The other oddity when recording an open action step in Photoshop is that the actual command to open must come from Photoshop...this may seem simple but it's not. I keep a spare raw file on the desktop so when recording an Open action I can start in Photoshop and turn on recording then drag & drop the raw file onto my Photoshop Icon to make sure Photoshop is opening the image then click to set the Workflow settings and specifically do NOT make any other image adjustment steps (they would also be recorded) and continue with the Open, then whatever other steps you need to add before recording the Save and Close steps (yeah, same tricky deal on the end with the Save As recorded and the Override Action Save As Commands...
If all of the above makes your eye's glaze over (the best time to learn how to do this stuff is NOT when you are under the gun or a deadline) I suggest you try using Image Processor...easier to set up and learn, not nearly as powerful as a Batch Action though...

Costco and soft proofing show dull washed out image

OK, so I am trying to utilize my nearest costco to print some images from lightroom 5. I am getting back dull washed out prints.
Facts:
I shoot in RAW in manual mode
I am using sRGB when I do my post processing
I export to jpg for printing
I used the costco LR5 plugin from Alloyphoto to upload to Costco
I have installed the printer profiles from drycreek for the specific location/printer and have chosen the correct profile as I export
I made sure that I chose to have Costco NOT autocorrect the color
Even when I use LR5's soft proofing, I get the same result on my monitor
I checked the print I got back and it says that they did NOT autocorrect (taken with a grain of salt)
The machine they are using is a Noritsu QSS-A, so I know my profile is correct
I have attached a screen shot of what I am seeing.
Why am I seeing this on my soft proofing as well as my prints?
How can I solve this and get vibrant prints?
Any advice would be helpful.
Message was edited by: moviebuffking

moviebuffking wrote:
I have calibrated my monitor as good as I can get without specific hardware. I have 18 years experience calibrating monitors (via optical media and my eyes), so I know that mine is very close.
It is virtually impossible to "accurately" set the Luminance, Gamma, and Color temperature "by eye." This is most likely the cause of your prints not matching the screen image you see in LR. That being the monitor's Luminance (i.e. Brightness) level is too set to high.
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/colour_management/prints_too_dark.html
To see if this could be your problem I downloaded the posted screen shot and cropped out the 'Copy' image, which has your adjustments applied to it. Here are my results:
Click on image to see full-size
I needed to apply a full F stop (+1.0 EV) of Exposure correction to achieve a good midtone brightness level for the print image. You'll notice I also added -50 Highlights and +50 Shadows along with +25 Vibrance. I bet the image with my adjustments added looks way too bright on your uncalibrated monitor.
You have two (2) issues–Monitor Calibration and LR Basic Panel Control Adjustments
Monitior Calibration
I would highly recommend investing in a hardware monitor calibrator such as the X-Rite i1 Display and ColorMunki, or Datacolor Spyder models. If you tell me what make and model monitor you are using I can recommend specific calibrators.
Temporarily you can try adjusting the monitor "by eye" to get it closer to the desired 120cd/m2 Luminance, 2.2 Gamma, and 6500K Color Temperature using the test patterns at this site:
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
When the monitors Brightness and Contrast controls have been correctly set the screen image should look much closer to the prints you have recently made with the LR Soft Proof adjustments. So in fact you will be adjusting the monitor to make it look bad with the LR adjustments you applied. The proper monitor settings will make the Lagom test patterns look correct AND should make your bad Costco prints now match the screen image using you original LR settings.
After changing the monitor's Brightness and Contrast settings try readjusting a few of the image files you had printed and send them to Costco as check prints. Compare them again to your monitor's screen image. They should be much better!
LR Basic Panel Tone Control Adjustment
LR's PV2012 Tone controls can provide much improvement to your raw image Highlight and Shadow detail. Start with all of the Tone controls at their '0' default settings and adjust them from the top-down in the order shown below.
1. Set Exposure for the midtone brightness ignoring the highlight and shadow areas for now. Setting Exposure about +.5 EV higher than what looks correct for the midtones seems to work best with most images.
2. Leave Contrast at 0 for now. You’ll adjust this after the first pass.
3. Adjust Highlights so that blown out areas are recovered and “fine tonal detail” is revealed.
4. Adjust Shadows to reveal fine detail in dark areas. For most normal images simply setting -Shadows = +Highlights (Example -50 and +50) works very well.
5. The Whites control sets the white clipping point, which you can see by holding down the ALT key as you move the slider. Adjust it to the point where you see clipping just appear with the ALT key.
6. The Blacks control sets the black clipping point, which you can see by holding down the ALT key as you move the slider. Adjust it to the point where you see clipping just appear with the ALT key.
7. Now go back and adjust the Contrast control to establish the best midtone contrast.
8. Lastly touchup the Exposure control for the best midtone brightness.
9. If necessary “touch-up” the controls using the same top-down workflow.
moviebuffking wrote:
Am I correct in assuming that the soft proof (with a certain profile) is a "preview" of what that print will look like?
Soft Proof does two things. It shows you what the image's colors will look like in the target color space (i.e. printer profile). You can see what (if any) colors are "out of gamut" by clicking on the small icon in the upper-righthand corner of the Histogram. You can also see if any of the colors fall out of your monitor's gamut by clicking on the small icon in the upper-lefthand corner of the Histogram.
When you check 'Simulate Paper & Ink' the Soft Proof image's contrast and color saturation are changed to make it look closer to what the "reflective" print image will look like when held next to the monitor for comparison. Many people have difficulty using 'Simulate Paper & Ink' since it requires using precise light levels for viewing the print and a well calibrated monitor.
In summary my best suggestion is to purchase and use a good hardware monitor calibrator on a scheduled basis to insure you have an "accurate" screen image inside LR and other color managed applications like PS.

Nikon RAW NEF files have white balance blown out (iPhoto 7.1.4)

I had no problems opening my Nikon D200 RAW NEF files in iPhoto until about a month ago. I think I downloaded a patch for compatibility of camera files? After that when ever I open A raw file, the colors and white balance are blown out.

I was unable to get my images to appear as I shot them. I shoot with a Nikon D80 and shoot with a Vivid setting. Now after shooting a wedding of more than 1500 images I have to find a way to color correct them all. I have attempted the downgrade to the previous version, unsuccessful. I have forwarded on my comments to apple and find that this issue effects tens of thousands of photos. As a MFA student at a major university, and studying color management and workflow, I feel I need to look elsewhere for file management as iPhoto is not able to do the job and the fact that it affects my entire library system of photos... simply unacceptable. I have always found the discussion groups extremely helpful, but this issue has effected so many of us and is such a huge integral part of the photographic process that I need to look to other programs to effectively handle my color management.
Disappointing.
Daryn

Need help with blown out highlights please

Hi. I am not very good with Photoshop and need some help on how to fix the blown out highlight areas of this photo, please. I've spent the past couple of hours trying to figure this out and have not found a good technique yet. Any help will be most appreciated.

First brighten the shot up using an adjustment layer and then brush your highlights back to where they are now. the fact your shot looks so dark,makes the bright areas more noticeable. if they are totally blown in the original,you cant get detail where it does not exist, but making the overall image brighter visually should help in my opinion.

Open Catalog image in ACR

LR 2.1; OS 10.4.11
Editing images in the Develop mode is very slow; is it possible to default open images in ACR via Preferences(as in Bridge when double clicking on the thumbnail)?
In the "Edit In" dialog, "Open in Other Application" is grayed out.
Thanks.

>Editing images in the Develop mode is very slow; is it possible to default open images in ACR via Preferences(as in Bridge when double clicking on the thumbnail)?
I can not help you with the slow editing in Develop mode; I am on Windows so maybe some Mac user can help you.
You will not be able to open an image in an external application by double-clicking because that will always get you to Lightroom's Develop module.
>In the "Edit In" dialog, "Open in Other Application" is grayed out.
You should set your external editors in Preferences, External Editing Tab. The first of those will be set to CS3 or CS4 if you have either installed.
You can choose the second external editor. In my case I use Nikon's Capture NX as my second External Editor.
But I have temporarily changed it to Bridge, purely for researching my answer to your question. This will open Bridge, and you can then select "Open in Camera Raw"; however this is such a long way around that it is hardly worth doing. And it also suffers from the problem that if you do not close Bridge, another copy of Bridge will open the next time choose to edit in Bridge from Lightroom.
I do not think that you can choose "Camera Raw" as an external editor because it is only a plug-in for Photoshop and Lightroom; and the version that Lightroom uses is basically the same as used by Photoshop.
I wonder why your Lightroom editing is slow? It may be worth looking at that problem first.
Hope these give you some pointers towards a solution.

8750 Color Problems - posterized edges / blown out only on photo paper

I have an 8750 printer. It worked great for a while. Printed quite a number of glossy 11x17's from photoshop no problem for a big office presentation. Didn't use the printer for a few months, then when I went to use the printer, the colors started having real problems, giving a posterized look. So first I bought new cartriges, no improvement.
I went throught the cleaning and testing cycles. Now it is not completely posterized any more but the highlights are completely blowing out and turning white and orange. But only on photo paper, on regular plain paper the prints are perfect. It seems to me that this is a software or firmware problem. I have downloaded and installed the latest drivers.
Tried and tried, using small images, selecting different paper, resolution, color controlled by.. options and using many brands and types of photo paper. One time it came out perfect on a small 2x3 test, thought it was fixed, went and printed same image, same settings from photoshop full size and the blown out highlights came right back. Printed on plain paper and again print was perfect. Tried every setting imaginable, including the full DPI but no difference. Also tried printing straight from Windows default picture viewer, same problem. Also put a 500mb flash card into the slot (for printer RAM?)
Ran cleaning after cleaning and test after test. The test page comes out showing good, but randomly sections of the fine color strips at the top are completely missing, using the print test protocol from the printer's control panel. Any ideas are really appreciated. Otherwise this is an expensive piece of ewaste. Help me solve this problem or the printer gets it!!
Message Edited by Vistet on 07-12-2009 12:23 AM

comparison of images on plain paper versus glossy paper can be seen here, I cannot figure out how to imbed image in post
http://runryder.net/printpic.htm?i=/helicopter/gallery/1811/Print_Problem.jpg
Also, the image prints fine from my Canon color printer on 8.5 x 11 which is the size I was trying to print from the 8750. Finally, I also tried printing jpg version of the image from a CFcard plugged into the printer, same result. Bad. Weird how it is selecting the areas to blow out.
Message Edited by Vistet on 07-12-2009 12:20 AM

1 blown out face

1 blown out face amoung 3 people. How can i color correct or white balance correct just one face?

Select just the face, then do your corrections, which will be limited to the selection.
Feather the edges of the selection as needed and follow natural lines in the image so it doesn't look so obvious.
-Noel

How to fix blown out window highlights

I'm a Realtor (www.MikeBishop.ca ) and when I take pictures of my clients homes I sometimes get blown out windows in the pictures. Is there a way to fix blown out windows in photoshop CS3?
Thanks Mike
Message title was edited by: Brett N

I noticed that at least one of your photos was taken with a Canon PowerShot SD750.
This is a Point & Shoot and can only shoot jpgs.
Things like blown out highlights in windows, sky, etc. is not surprising given the abilities of the camera.
If you had a DSLR and shot RAW files you would have more leeway with adjusting photos using Adobe Camera Raw. RAW files have the full image data direct from the image sensor. All cameras, including DLSR throw away a lot of image data when they produce jpgs in the camera.
Its not a miracle worker on a single photo that has blown out highlights, but if you use a tripod and shoot several shots bracketing the exposures you end up with a lot more image data to work with. Most, but usually not the lowest end DSLRs, have a bracketing function that does this automatically, you don't have to adjust the exposure manually for each shot. Then with your bracketed shots you could better adjust them. Do things like "Load files into Stack" and mask out parts of each image.
This may be more expensive and more involved that what you were hoping for.
However, you can open your original jpgs in Adobe Camera Raw and you can adjust some elements fairly easily.
Since the jpgs have already a lot of image data thrown away, you can't do nearly as much as with RAW files.
One thing I noticed is the color balance of some photos is off. You may be able to adjust some settings in your camera before you shoot. You could also adjust them in Photoshop or in Adobe Camera Raw which is a part of Photoshop.
A quick adjustment. the original feels cold as ice. Adjusting the color makes for a more inviting photo.
Which photo do you think is more likely to help sell the house?
This is from a small photo with low resolution so not so great. But it gives a idea about some possibilities.

All of the music on my Ipod Touch is blown out after I synched it with my new MacBook. I didn't get the 'synch' warning-- but now can't find my library of songs. I'm about to panic!

All of the music on my Ipod Touch is blown out after I synched it with my new MacBook. I didn't get the 'synch' warning-- but now can't find my library of songs. I'm about to panic!

The iPod backup that iTunes makes does not inlcuded synced media like apps and music. Thes those iTunes are not restored to the iPod unless they are in the iTunes library.
Try:
- Reset the iOS device. Nothing will be lost
Reset iOS device: Hold down the On/Off button and the Home button at the same time for at
least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
- Unsync all music and resync
- Reset all settings
Go to Settings > General > Reset and tap Reset All Settings.
All your preferences and settings are reset. Information (such as contacts and calendars) and media (such as songs and videos) aren’t affected.
- Restore from backup. See:
iOS: How to back up
- Restore to factory settings/new iOS device.

4K TV not recognized correctly: MacBook Pro Mid2014 15" reports a Samsung UE40HU6900 4K TV as 8K (7680x4320). This results in an ugly, washed out image half the size it should be. Is there a fix for this? (OSX 10.10.1)

MacBook Pro Mid2014 15" reports a Samsung UE40HU6900 4K TV as 8K (7680x4320).
This results in an ugly, washed out image half the size it should be. If you turn off scaling everything is tiny as 8K are displayed on a 4K screen. To get the actual 4K resolution you have to turn on scaling. Still 8K is transferred to the device, but doubling the data lines makes the picture look washed out and create obscure effects for line borders.
Did anybody encounter this problem before? Is there a fix for this? (OSX 10.10.1)

You have the MacBookPro6,2, the Edsel of Macs. It may be covered by this program:
MacBook Pro (15-inch, Mid 2010): Intermittent black screen or loss of video
Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store to have the machine tested.
Print the first page of the panic report and bring it with you.
Back up all data on the internal drive(s) before you hand over your computer to anyone. If privacy is a concern, erase the data partition(s) with the option to write zeros* (do this only if you have at least two complete, independent backups, and you know how to restore to an empty drive from any of them.) Don’t erase the recovery partition, if present.
*An SSD doesn't need to be zeroed.

Blown out images in ACR 6.7

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