Blue cast to display

My black MacBook display is showing everything as if through a blue filter. Also, since updating iTunes this weekend, I find that when I log in it takes a much longer time to show my desktop preferences - it shows the generic blue swirl background before mine appears.
The computer was not restarted after the installation but if anyone has any suggestions about the blue cast to my screen today, I'd be very grateful. Thanks!

Thank you for the suggestion. I checked the settings but couldn't see that anything has changed. However I did do a simple restart and it sorted out both problems - clearly something wasn't connecting with something the way it should!

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How do I export a video without a heavy blue cast

I use imovie 3. I can download and edit my movies. The finished product looks good on the computer. However, when I export, the video has a very heavy blue cast even when viewing on the computer. But, if I export as an email or web file then the colour is ok but the quality is poor. I would like to copy some of my videos on to cd's with correct colours. Any ideas??

You can only export in the same resolution that you imported.
That is if you shot in 720p you cannot export in 1080p.
Share > YouTube and select the highest resolution available.
Z.

Vertical blue line is displaying on the screen.

In my iphone4 the vertical blue line is displaying on the screen.please provide the solution.
the running ios is 6.1.3.

If your iPod Touch, iPhone, or iPad is Broken
Apple does not fix iDevices. Instead, they exchange yours for a refurbished or new replacement depending upon the age of your device and refurbished inventories. On rare occasions when there are no longer refurbished units for your older model, they may replace it with the next newer model.
ATTN: Beginning July 2013 Apple Stores are now equipped to do screen repairs/replacements in-house on iPhone 5s. In some cases while you wait. According to Apple this is the beginning of equipping Apple Stores with the resources needed to do most repairs for iPhones, iPads, and iPod Touches that would not require major replacements. Later in the year the services may be extended as Apple Stores become equipped and staffed with the proper repair expertise. So, if you need a screen repaired or a broken screen replaced or have your stuck Home button fixed, call your local Apple Store to see if they are now doing these in-house.
You may take your device to an Apple retailer for help or you may call Customer Service and arrange to send your device to Apple:
Apple Store Customer Service at 1-800-676-2775 or visit online Help for more information.
To contact product and tech support: Contacting Apple for support and service - this includes international calling numbers.
iPod Service Support and Costs
iPhone Service Support and Costs
iPad Service Support and Costs
There are third-party firms that do repairs on iDevices, and there are places where you can order parts to DIY if you feel up to the task:
1. iResq or Google for others.
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Pro9000 Prints with Heavy Blue Cast

Hello all!
I have several Canon Pro9000 and Pro9000 Mark II printers. The Pro9000 Mark II printers are doing great. However, the Pro9000 printer is printing photos with a heavy blue cast to them. The blue is so heavy and so bad that any photo printed with it is destroyed.
I have tried printing both from Photoshop and from other programs, including straight from Window's photo viewer. When printing from Photoshop, I have tried both letting Photoshop manage colors and the printer manage colors. When Photoshop is managing colors, I've turn color management off for the printer (set it to None). I've made sure I have the proper paper selected, etc. It does not matter what I do, the Pro9000 still prints with a heavy blue cast.
I've tried switching from Auto to Manual in an attempt to reduce the blue. But even if I have the first slider (labeled Cyan) slid all the way to the red side and the third slider (labeled Yellow) slid all the way over to yellow, I am still getting a heavy blue, but now the images are too red and too yellow, etc.
What can I do to figure out what is going on with this printer? It used to print properly, so I am not sure what changed. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thank you.
PS - I am running Windows 8.1, 64-bit.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

I don't have any 9500's. I have two Pro9000's and four Pro9000 Mark II's. The Mark II's all print fine from the same computer(s). Both of the Pro9000's (non-Mark II) are printing with the heavy blue tint.
The monitor being right should not be an issue here. After all, what I see is what I get with the Pro9000 Mark II's.
I've tried both letting Photoshop handle all the color profiling and letting the printer do it. I get the same blue tinting. Just FYI - I cannot always use Photoshop to print. I do event photos where I am using a Hot Folder for printing. In cases like this, Photoshop is not even running. That's when I need the printer to handle color profiling (the hot folder software I currently use has not control over this). Again, this works fine with the Pro9000 Mark II's.
I've played with numerous settings and nothing is removing the blue tinting. I thought it might be the print heads, but the check nozzle pattern looks like it is printing just fine. This is why I am confused.

Removing blue cast/tint from JPG (wrong white balance setting while taking picture)

Hi,
Photosohop newb here, still using CS3 (10.0), so please be patient.
I was at a convention not long ago, where I took lots of pictures with my phone. I only noticed at home, that a few of the pictures came out with an intense blue cast because of a bad white balance setting (I must have accidentally changed it).
I was trying to fix the image for the last 2 hours, with no real luck. I tried everything under Image -> Adjustments -> "Auto Color", "Color Levels" and "Match Color", moving the sliders up and down to get the best match. The best I could come up with was still far away from the other pictures I took the same day.
Here is one of the bad pictures: http://imgur.com/vw12aTQ
And here is one I took just a minute later with the "normal" setting: http://imgur.com/RMFm7fo
I actually got a pretty good match by cutting out some of the cobblestones from both pictures and using "Match Color" -> "Source", but I couldn't apply this technique to the whole picture.
Could somebody please help me to make the colors of the first picture similar to the second one?
Thank you,
Roland

Here's an easy fix...
Choose Image - Adjust - Curves, then click the Gray Point dropper and sample something in the image that should be a neutral gray - say one of the stones on the ground. Click in various places until you like what you see.
-Noel

HT3805 Sudden problem: Adjustment panel blank (metadata and library OK). Thumbnail shown as file loads but then image has dark blue cast and is not adjustable. Have current version of Aperture running. Help please

Aperture Help needed: Adjustment panel is blank, although metadata and library panels normal. Thumbnails appear normal but when RAW (CR2) file is loaded, it appears with a dark blue cast, and does not load into the adjustment panel, and is not adjustable. Suggestions please

You may need to register your camera with the the launch service database again, see this post by Alan Roseman: Re: Aperture 3 preview of raw file greenish
There is a "typo" in the command given in the link above, so read also the following posts on how to correctly enter the command and how the fix is supposed to work
Good luck.
Post back, if this does not help.
Regards
Léonie

What is causing all of my Images to import with a blue cast?

All of my images are now importing into Lightroom3 and Photoshop CS5 with a blue cast. I have reformatted the SD card, tried with other SD cards, re-calibrated my monitor with X-Rite colorometer, changed monitors, tried with another camera, changed card readers. The images appear as shot in Bridge, but when opened they come in with the blue cast. The same images import properly on my laptop. I'm shooting sRGB in camera and have tried a number of different shots, so artificail lighting is not the issue. All images that are already on my hard drive import properly. I was working in LR when this occurred, so, I think I must have inadvertently mades some alteration to the settings while working in LR. However, opening PS separately and bringing an image in independent of Lightroom has the same result. Images appear as shot in Adobe Bridge, then open with the blue cast. Thanks for any assistance.
Reconman1033

Curt Y:
Thanks. In camera I still shoot DNG and I shoot nothing but RAW. Is there something in LR and/or PS that I have done to make that change, and if so, how would I correct that. I feel pretty sure it is something I did while importing into LR on my desktop, since I can open the images on the Laptop without any trouble.

Very slight blue cast on epson r1900 when match print color check box is checked

Ok, so this problem has been bugging me for some time now and I know other people have it too, because I can see it some of the screen shots.
I am running CS3 and and epson r1900. Using the latest drivers, and latest ICM epson paper profiles downloaded again just yesterday. So what happen is when I go to print a photo, whenever I check the match print color box, the proof instantly assume a very light blue cast which prints on the paper as well.
Let me tell you what I know it is not.
1. It is not double color management- ICM is disabled on the epson print manager side
2. It is not a badly calibrate monitor, My spyder 2 is working just fine.
I am wondering if its some type of gamut compression inherint the the ICC profile, but if that were the case, if I converted my photo into the icc's color space, it just take on the blue cast, but it does not it. The blue cast appears only after the match printer colors check box is checked. Even if I add additional whitespace to the picture, that what space, which when you think about it, should just be paper white, get printed again with the light blue cast. In checking and unchecking that above mentioned box, I can see that other features within the photo are being affected or shifted as well. If I use a different icc profile, say, the Kodak Professional Paper profile or a red river paper profile, there is no Blue Cast period when the box is check or unchecked, so it seems to be something related to epson profiles, and Photoshop.
I have removed the printer and reinstalled with all the latested drivers available at epson website, as well as removed all my old epson paper iCC profiles and reinstalled them from that latest available from epson as well.
I can see on some epson printing tutorials avaiable on the web, this blue cast in the screen shots. Like here- http://www.gballard.net/psd/printing_epson_photoshop_cs3.html
compare the the preview print area , the the white in the in input box for print size and you can see there is a cast.
So is this normal?
thanks
Patrick

Patrick,
ICC profiles include white point information. When you check the match print color box, Photoshop trys to show a quick soft proof of your image there in the print dialog. The blue cast is Photoshop trying to simulate the white point in the profile - which happens to be the shade of the paper. Some papers have more of a pronounced blue or yellow shade, and this shows up in the soft proof.
In reality you will not see nearly the level of shift on a print as you do in the Photoshop print dialog. That soft proof is not really super accurate.
To summarize it is indeed the paper ICC profile that is causing the effect. Different profiles will all show slightly different variations in the white point under these circumstances.
Drew Hendrix
Red River Paper
www.redriverpaper.com

Blue Cast on CR2 conversion to DNG

I'm wondering if anyone can explain why CR2 files from a Canon 1D Mark II exhibit a strong blue cast when converted to DNG using the standalone Adobe DNG converter version 5.5.0.97 or Lightroom 2.5. (see examples below).
Here's the test I conducted: I first shot a JPEG image of an X-Rite grey card using Auto White Balance then used it to set a custom white balance in my 1D Mark II. I then repeated the same test using a RAW file and in both instances the camera functions as expected. However, when I converted the CR2 files to DNG they took on a strong blueish cast.
For comparison purposes I then did the same test using a Canon 5D and those CR2 files do not show the blueish cast when converted to DNG.
Here's a shot of the thumbnails as they appear in BreezeBrowser Pro (thumbnail color management enabled). They look the same in Adobe Bridge too. The first six thumbnails are from the Canon 1D Mark II and the second six are from the Canon 5D.
Thanks for any help.

The only thing wrong with your DNG is that the embedded preview was created with the WB set to something like Tungsten while the DNG metadata parameters say As Shot for the WB. How it got that way you're going to have to figure that out. I say this because both LR and Br show a brief blue flash when the image is initially imported, then it corrects to the As Shot WB. This means the preview is bad but the parameters are ok.
I'm going to guess you had the DNG open in LR and clicked or synced it to something like Tungsten from some other image, and then created the DNG with the preview, then corrected the WB in LR and then updated the DNG metadata without updating the preview--perhaps by having the Auto XMP writing turned on.
I'd suggest removing the CR2 (and any associated DNGs) from the library, deleting any XMP, and starting over by importing the CR2 with As Shot parameters and convert directoy to DNG from W/in LR and see if you can make it happen, again. If you figure it out, then tell us. If you can't figure it out, then don't worry. The CR2 and the DNG are ok and you can use them for creating your color profile with the passport software which ignores any edits you make to the DNG anyway. Trying it with my Passport software shows a non-blue DNG with the green rectangles over the various squares, so the DNG, itself, is fine, just the preview is wrong.

My G4 Apple PowerBook will not boot further than pale blue/grey screen displaying "flashing file symbol / flashing ?"

My G4 Apple PowerBook will not boot further than pale blue/grey screen displaying "flashing file symbol / flashing ?"
Last previous action: Used Firewire cable and "Target Mode" to copy files from G4 eMac to the PowerBook.
I worked from the eMac to the PowerBook, making the PowerBook the "Target". Files seemed to transfer OK. Won't boot from InstallDisc. Holding down T on startup results in Target mode screen. I have a G4 iMac and a G4 eMac. Can I use either of these with Firewire cable to boot-up my PowerBook ?
I'm new to using this Communities & Forums Help. Can someone please help me to get going again ! ! Thanks for your time. Graflood

Hello,
It sounds to me like the PowerBook is stuck in target disk mode.
It's expecting the iMac/eMac to be there when booting. Seeming it's not attached, it will show a flashing folder.
If your PowerBook internal drive is bootable, then simply hold down the option key when booting and select it's internal hard drive. That should boot your PowerBook into Mac OS X.

T61 blue cast screen problem

A number of users have reported a blue cast screen problem. I have managed to correct this by altering the colors in color correction (reducing blue), but I have to repeat the correction each time I boot up. Is there a way to permanently save the correction so that it will apply with each reboot?

This sounds to me like your green signal to your LCD is not correct - maybe it's sitting at a constant 50%.
My guess is that the ribbon cable that carries the LVDS signal from your mainboard to LCD has come a bit loose, or has developed a crack. You might try shifting the cable around a bit, or carefully reseating it in the ZIF connector if you are comfortable disassembling your laptop (and voiding the warranty).
Alternately, the crack could have developed inside the G84 chip itself - if the rumors are true, this could be one of the outcomes of the G84's defective manufacturing.

Everything in iPhoto has a blue cast to it.

Open iPhoto and everything (including backgrounds everywhere has a blue cast to it. Any idea of what it is and how to get rid of it. I suspect some combination of keys led to this, but it is very disconcerting.

I just went into setting, then auto brightness and notices int was really low on the scale. I slid it to the right and all of a sudden it was back to normal. Thanks for the tip!

LED display has blue cast compared to 23" LCD display

Just purchased the 27" LED Cinema display. It is side by side with my 23" LCD display. The colors are dramatically different. Is there some way to calibrate the new 27" monitor so that it has the same appearance as the 23" LCD or is the technology so different that they will never really look similar? I have a Mac Pro 2 X 2.4 GHz Quad-Core Intel Xeon.
thanks
russ

Yes, they do frequently have blue tints which cannot be calibrated out. I had to return two of them because of the problem and eventually just got my money refunded. I was told that Apple Engineering had no fix other than to suggest using a professional calibrator system which would almost certainly have done no good. I'd suggest you return the Thunderbolt display for refund and buy a different brand or wait until Apple releases a new generation of displays, whenever that happens.
Regards.

Prints have green/blu cast w CS5/LR3, Epson R2880, Coloreyes, eyeone display 2

Please help! After months of printing w great results using:
CS 5 (12.0.1) running in either 32 or 64 bit mode and/or LR 3 (3.2) and profiling my iMac Intel Core i7 running OS X 10.6.5 with ColorEyes Display Pro (1.52r032.2), and have the most recent drivers from Epson (8.27) I have suddenly started getting crap prints - they are flat and have a bluish/greenish cast when printing on Ilford or Hahnemuhl paper, using the correct ICC profiles selected in the print dialogue (I also soft-proof gamut and colors in PS before printing). Ink is not low, prints are not banding, B&W prints basically OK, and print diagnostic sheet is fine.
I have checked everywhere on the forums and have not found anyone experiencing similar problems. Can anyone help!!!?

You know.. I had a similar problem a few months ago. Same printer and calibration device. I just could not track it down the color shift problem. Not sure if this was what fixed it, but I uninstalled the Epson driver (current version) and downloaded again from Epson and reinstalled it. Same with the paper profiles. And I built a new monitor profile. ONE of those things (or something?) worked and all was back to normal.

Satellite A300D-1EI - blue screen error - display drivers had failed

I 've bought my laptop a month ago.
Everything is working great except two "blue screen" errors caused by the graphics card.
Both were when the laptop was connected with TV through S-video port.
First was when the laptop display turned off after 15 minutes while watching a movie, on resume said that display drivers had failed and then I got the blue screen. Then I updated the display drivers from ATI's website and set the laptop display not to turn off.
All were ok with no problems, until last night when I got another message that display drivers had failed followed by a blue screen.
I am wondering if this is a driver's problem or is something wrong with my graphics card.
System Info:
Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo CPU T8400 @ 2.26 GHz
Memory (RAM): 3.00 GB
System Type: 32-bit Windows Vista Home Premium
Display Adapter: ATI Mobility Radeon HD 3470

So long you use ATI driver from ATI support page there is no possibility to say anything about it.
This driver is not tested and Toshiba cannot offer any help about it.
So what you can do is to install OS again using recovery media and see what will happen in the future. Please test it intensively with clean preinstalled operating system. Don't install anything that can have some negative influence to this game or additional applications, codecs or something similar.
Test it please and let us know if the problem persists.
When you want to watch movies on TV at first switch to the TV and then start DVD player.

Blue cast to display

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