Blue/White iMAc G3 233mhz/32mg 512cache

have a blue /white iMac G3 and when i turn it on a flashing and mac folder began flashing. i have tried everything in resetting nvram holding command option and p and r keys also of key . I remover the old battery it had no voltage rest cuda button same flashing Question mark and mac face. I do not have any of the original cds, if anyone has any would appricate a copy of these cds if all possible unless someone has any other sugguestions NEED HELP PLEASE. I have a ImacG5 and tried loading the operating disc to see if it would boot up no luck

Hi, abelmichael -
The information Kappy gave you in your other thread is correct - the flashing icons when you try to boot indicate the machine can not find a valid OS from which to boot.
That can be caused by a weak or dead internal battery. You said you checked the battery, and it was dead - you did not mention whther you had replaced it. If you have not yet replaced it with a fresh one, do so before going any further with trouble-shooting. Reset the CUDA again when replacing the battery.
If that machine had had OSX on it previously, then its firmware has probably been updated, and you can install OSX on it again.
If it did not have OSX on it previously, and if you are not sure that the firmware on it has been updated, do not try to install OSX on it. IN the case of early iMacs, just booting the machine to OSX when the firmware has not been updated can result in loss of video.
You can get any firmware update needed for a CRT iMac from here -
Article #58174 - iMac: When to Install Available Updaters
The forum best suited for problems with your iMac 233MHz model would be the "Using your iMac (CRT)" forum, here -
http://discussions.apple.com/forum.jspa?forumID=888

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PowerMac G3 Blue & White Hard Drive Trouble/Help Requested

Hey all,
I work for a small IT/computer repair company. We recently got in a PowerMac G3 Blue & White (300 MHz; 512K cache; 64 MB SDRAM) which has what appears to be a bad hard drive.
(Upon boot, it comes up with a flashing disk/question mark and you can hear the drive making noises it shouldn't be/spinning up and down/etc.). I've tried booting with the OS CD (8.5.1) in the drive and get a bit further, but it complains of an unimplemented trap, and if I try holding down C to boot up, it starts to load, but then the screen flashes and it eventually locks up (but without the hard drive connected at all doesn't even get that far; just a gray screen).
I've done some research and think my first step should be to replace the hard drive (though if that's not the case, I'd appreciate some insight). I haven't fixed many Macs before, though, so I still have several questions:
1.) The drive that came with the machine is a 6 GB IBM connected to the mainboard IDE interface. It lists it as having Apple HDD Firmware. Is this firmware required on any drive I'd have to get to work with this machine, or can I go with any IDE drive and not worry about it like with PC's (I'm going to stay as small as I can, but with newer drives, that's probably still a lot of gigs)?
2.) Similarly, when I do get a new drive, assuming that's the problem, will OS 8.5.1 be able to format and use it, as I've never done an install of this particular OS before. I'm assuming I just boot from CD and go through the process?
3.) Unfortunately, I've discovered this unit is using the Revision 1 chipset. So I may need to go for some sort of PCI IDE interface option. Any recommendations for a cheap solution here, and is this a definite must to get this working reliably?
4.) The owner of this machine also inquired about a DVD/CD burner (would have to be external as there's no room inside). Any recommendations that would work well with this machine, or is this machine not suited to using these types of drives well?
5.) Can this Apple G3 run Mac OSX well enough, as the client has also expressed interest in upgrading OSes, or is it too slow for this?
Thanks much for any help - this is fairly new territory for me!
Shaun

Shaun,
After the iMac killed the used Mac market and the G4 killed the value of the B&W G3, I closed up shop and moved on to better ways of making money. lol
One client wanted a newer mac cheap so I bought her a used B&W G3. One month later they came out with the Mac Mini for $125.00 more than a fully configured B&W. With in the year, that client moved up to a Mini. The B&W has plummeted in value since that day. Current market is G4 or better now.
For a hobby machine, it is still a great computer. To pay for service time at shop rate, that model can quickly become a money pit. You may have already checked out some sites like this:
http://www.macgurus.com/products/motherboards/mbppcg3bw.php
so I apologize in advance if you already know the history of issues with that machine.
Yes we can walk you through the resurrection of a Blue and ***** ( honest typo) Mac, but religious preferences aside, if you value the client, tell them about the value of a mini. It was built to run OS X. It has behaved flawlessly ( except with MS Office ) for us here.
The model of B&W Mac that you mentioned has many service land mines. Those traps for the unwary can be easily avoided with SCSI interface cards and a SCSI drive. Your fees and the cost of the upgrades might add up to close to the cost of a bare bones Mini. Just something to consider.
First thing to do is to "zap the PRAM" and Texas mac man gives a good tutorial here:
http://www.geocities.com/texas_macman/pram.html
The Apple OEM HDD firmware is not required but it does make life much easier on your client.
If you have a spare Western Digital IDE drive kicking around, see if you can format it to Mac with Drive Setup in the Utilities folder of any drive you can get to boot that Mac after zapping the PRAM.
The Mini can be ordered with a DVD burner.
Good luck.
Jim

G3 Blue/White will not enter firewire disk mode

I have just purchased a G5 IMAC (the 20inch model) and want to transfer settings from the OS 10.3.9 operating program on the G3 to the G5 which has Tiger, OS 1.4 on it. The G5 will automatically move data to the right applications in 10.4 if the G3 would start up in the Firewire Disk Mode via the firewire connection between the two machines. Unfortunately, all it does on restart when holding the "T" key down is start up in the the panther (10.3.9) mode. Does anyone know how I can fix this problem. The G3 also has OS 9.2.2 installed on it. The G3 has two firewire ports, each one has version 2.8.6 on the firewire extemsions.
G3 PowerMAC, Blue & White Mac OS 9.2.x and a spanking new G5 IMAC (20 inch)

Hi C3, and welcome to the discussions.
Unfortunately, the blue & white G3 does not support target mode (see here).
You'll have to transfer your settings the old fashioned way.
Andrew
Dual 2.0 GHz G5 Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Unable to delete photos from my desktop , I get a drop down box with continued blue/ white bars - now 6 hours

Having dragged 8 photos onto my desktop from iphoto for the purpose of easy addition to an email , I now find that when I dragged them to the Trash bin , they fail to delete.
I get a drop down box with continued blue/ white bars , stating "moving to trash " .
It's now 6 hours and I cannot stop either. Tried to shut down my computer and reboot but it won't let me . I tried turning the power off , but the problem remains .
Any help would be welcome.

Hey !
I have found the solution myself !!!
Go ..... Apple in the toolbar - Force quite - select finder - then relaunch .
Brilliant

Blue & White G3 won't boot from Tiger DVD

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the B & W G3's ARE supported under OS X 10.4 right? This computer came to me only a week ago with 10.3.9 installed (flaky, but working), 32x CD-ROM, 384 MB RAM, 25 GB HD. The PRAM battery is dead. I was also given an NEC 5x DVD-ROM to install. This works fine (when it wants to) when booting with an OS 9.2.2 CD-ROM, and it can see and open the Tiger install CD... but it will NOT boot from it for some reason, computer just sits and idles. Any ideas?

This article concerns a specific problem with the Blue & White G3 and the Matsushita CR-587 CD-ROM drive. However, it shows an Open Firmware workaround that you could try:
25793- Power Macintosh G3 (Blue and White): Unable to start from Mac OS X 10.3.2 Install CD by holding "C" key

Blue & White will not Boot into OS 9

My son has a 400Mhz Rev. 2 Blue & White. Recently the Power Supply died, which I replaced, but when it died it also took one of the hard drives with it, before that it was working flawlessly. He had two ATA drives, both Maxtor, one the original 6 gig, with OS 9.2.2, and a 40 gig with OS X 10.4.11 on it. It was the 40 gig that died. Like I said I replaced the the dead power supply, pulled the faulty hard drive and replaced it with another one with 10.4.11 on it. The computer would start up, sometimes it would chime, sometimes not, but it would always go to a white screen, with the mouse courser in the top left hand corner and just sit there. I tried zapping the PRAM, resetting the logic board, pressing the CUDA Switch, starting up from original 8.6 CD, a retail OS 9.1 CD, a retail Tiger CD, and even a SCSI hard drive with OS 9.2.2 it. The only thing that worked was the Tiger CD, which would allow me to boot to the OS X drive. But for some reason I cannot boot to any device with OS 9.2.2 or lower. I can boot into classic from OS X, but I cannot boot directly to any drive with OS 9.
So my question is, how can this machine recognize and boot to OS X, but not to OS 9? I can take all the disks and boot to their respective OS's on my Daughter's Blue & White with no problems, but my son's will only boot to OS X, and it just hangs if I try to boot to OS 9.
Any help will be much appreciated.
By the way, I googled this problem, and it seems awhile back someone had the same problem with a G4 Cube, but was unable to get any help. So while it may be rare, it has happened before.
Ken

Ken,
A couple more things you should try: First I would try removing the PRAM battery from the computer with it powered off and unplugged for at least 10 minutes. This will completely kill the clock and the PRAM, but the PRAM settings may still hold. Then put the battery in and power it back on. I just replaced RAM in a G4Cube and that was the only way to get the system to accept the new RAM. Of course this resets your system clock to January 1st 1907, which will cause all sorts of complaints until you reset the clock, but it could fix the disparate drive problem.
Another thing to know is that certain PATA drives do not play well together Western Digital and Maxtor for instance. WD Masters expect WD slaves on their chain, so if you are mixing brands, you should try placing both drives in Cable Select Mode. Place the blue end of the ribbon cable on the motherboard, the master drive on the black cable end and the slave on the gray connector in the middle and give that a whirl.
Then you should hold down CommandOption+OF for Open Firmware when you press the power button, that will bring up your Open Firmware interface and enable you to view the startup settings. From there you can specify which hard drive you want it to boot from. If you know the drive and slice you can specify it in the boot-device entry. To view all the entries type "printenv" and press enter it should show a full page of options and then give you the option to press space for the last 7 or so entries. See what boot-device has next to it. It should read something like hd:0:2,\\:tbxi If you don't know what your boot slice is you can wipe out the entry one of two ways: You can edit the entry directly, in which case you would type "setenv boot-device hd:\\:tbxi" Return Then do a "printenv" again. That should show the blank entry--what you're doing is removing the specific boot drive assignment. You might also wish to change the boot mode so that you can see the device messages instead of the gray screen as the system boots. You can do that temporarily by pressing Command+V on boot. To store your new settings and start the Mac type "mac-boot" and Return. To choose which drive you want to boot from hold Option down as it powers up and you should be shown a list of the volumes with a bootable MacOS on them, as the OS Finds the bootable folders. Then you should be able to get Mac OS 9 or X to boot.
Let us know how you make out...
Tom

I purchased the multi-user iworks and recently had to replace my white imac's hard drive but didn't pay to fix the CD drive. My iworks does not have a serial number on the box and now that my CD drive isn't working how can I reinstall this software?

I purchased the multi-user iworks (yes back when it was new, 2009 or 2010 and recently had to replace my white imac's hard drive (but didn't pay to fix the CD drive). My iworks does not have a serial number on the box and now that my CD drive isn't working how can I reinstall this software?

Buy or borrow an external USB optical drive.
See the confirmation email or covering letter to obtain the serial number. If you have lost it, contact the supplier.

Are the screens on white iMac 20" better than those on new 24"?

I have read so much about the troubles with the 20" and 24" Aluminum iMac screens that I'm afraid to buy one now, and was thinking of buying a refurb'd white (plastic) iMac from Apple. Is the screen tech in the white version better than that in the 24" Alum? I have an old 2.0 white iMac and have never had any trouble with the screen at all.

Pier Rodelon wrote:
Thanks for these pix. I have two more questions,
1) Previous poster suggests that specs for the white iMac screens were lower
than specs for ALU iMac screens--is this true and in what particulars?
Other than viewing angle and brightness, Apple doesn't publish any meaningful
screen specs.
The ALU screens are a little brighter -- entirely too bright -- and they don't have
sufficient adjustment range to reduce the brightness for comfortable viewing with
normal home lighting levels.
The 20" ALU viewing angle specs are much poorer than the white 20" or any of
the 24" models. In practice, the difference is easily noticable even to the most
casual observer.
2) Does the 24" white iMac have the same screen that the 20" white iMac has?
All 24" iMacs have expensive S-IPS LCD panels. That's the same basic technology
and from the same manufacturer as the Apple Cinema Displays. (As discussed
previously, some (many?) 24" ALUs have/had problems with uneven backlighting.)
Some white 20" units use exactly the same S-IPS panel as 20" Cinema Displays;
some others came with an excellent-quality S-PVA display. I believe all 20" iMacs,
at least as far back as the G5 PPC, used similarly high-quality (gorgeous!) panels.
The 20" ALU iMacs all have much lower-quality TN panels (from various sources).
The 17" white Intel iMacs also use the lower-quality TN panels.
To see what display you currently have, cut-n-paste the following command line
into Terminal.app -- then look it up in the panel database at tftcentral.co.uk:
ioreg -lw0 | grep IODisplayEDID | sed "/\[^<\]*</s///" | xxd -p -r | strings -6
I don't know if the 24" white iMac refurb would be a better choice than the 20"
white (or the 20/24" ALU).
IMO, there's no contest in 20" size -- the white iMac displays are vastly superior.
If you're lucky enough to get a good display, the ALU 24" is very attractive; OTOH,
I have no performance complaints with my white 2.16 GHz Core 2 Duo -- and it
was $600 less than my 24" ALU reject.
Looby

In Mail, how do I get rid of the blue&white button that appears extreme right of Mail addressing pane (To)? What's its function?

In Mail, how do I get rid of the blue&white button that appears extreme right of the addressing pane (To)? What's its function?

malmaloney wrote:
Thanks Meg. Trouble is it disrupts emails addresses being keyed in - that is, not from the Contacts book...
How so? You trying to type over it? If you keep typing the addresses drop below to next line. I have tried and tried to make it disrupt anything without success.

Netboot Issue - White Imac to 2007 AL Imac

Hi
We have just purchased 20 Mid 2007 Aluminium iMac's to add to our existing network. - The one i have taken out of the box was pre-installed with 10.4.11 with a Leopard Upgrade Disk inside (said that Leopard is not installed on the machine but can be upgraded by use of this disc).
We have a 10.4.10 Netboot image (built on a 17" 2006 White Intel iMac) on our XServe that I have tried to restore onto one of the new Aluminium Imac's.
The actual netboot operation worked fine and the operating system booted up on the new Aluminium Imac - but then i have found;
a) the onboard LAN port is greyed out and cant be configured
b) the isight camera does not work
c) the sound does not work
I downloaded the 10.4.11 combo updater and ran that on the machine hoping that it would replace drivers, etc - no chance.
Is there a way i can get the specific drivers for this hardware, as I dont want to have to install all of the programs and settings that we have for our network. then have to clone it 20 times.
Or is there a way i can remove the settings for the missing items (network, isight, sound) from the computer prefs and get them rebuilt on system startup?
Frustrated that Apple support has been less than forthcomming, with the reply of
"upgrade to Leopard" - Upgrading to Leopard is not an option.
Not understanding the problem which i was facing.
I might have to return the 20 and just get hold of 20 of the White Imac's - which are on sale from our reseller.
Message was edited by: jszkud

Thank you so much for your information. I have been using a Seagate GoFlex portable drive as my back up disc with TimeMachine on my iMac. The AirPort Time Capsule is arriving tomorrow with my new iMac. My question to you is this: Will it be easier to wait till tomorrow, set up my AirPort Time Capsule and back up my old iMac to it and then use it with the Startup Assistant to transfer my stuff or will it be easier just to use my GoFlex back up disc? I have had some issues in the last year where Time Machine send me a message that the (daily) back up failed because the file got corrupted and I have been unable to fix it so that I have to reformat the disc and back up everything I have. Just an FYI, I don't have a huge amount of stuff on my iMac even if is almost 7 years old....I have 900 GB out of 1TB available. This is one of the reasons I felt it's time to replace my iMac.
Right now I have a clean encrypted back up on the GoFlex but I don't want to transfer anything I shouldn't to my new iMac. Please advice and thank you.

Apple Studio 21 blue/white does not work w/ 266 G3

Help:
I just picked up a free Apple Studio 21 blue/white ( my 1& 1/2 year old 19 electron blue stopped working ) and I can't get it to work on my G3 mini tower
Thank you
Mike

Help:
I just picked up a free Apple Studio 21 blue/white ( my 1& 1/2 year old 19 electron blue stopped working ) and I can't get it to work on my G3 mini tower
Thank you
Mike

Studio Monitor (Graphite/Clear) to Macintosh G3 (blue/white) connection

I have a Apple 17inch Studio Monitor (Graphite/Clear) that I'm connecting to a Macintosh G3 (blue/white) what kind of adapter do I need? The monitor cable has a male end with 3 rows by 10 pins plus a flat pin on the side. The G3 port is a 3 row by 5 pin female socket.

Welcome to the Apple Forums, recently revised just for your visit!
Does your Studio Display have its own AC power cord? If not, what it really needs is a display card from a G4 or an alternate power supply. I think Dr. Boot sells one, but it runs about US$100.
There is a lot of word-salad surrounding the various interfaces, and what can work with what. I suggest this article, which may help make more sense of it:
58692 -- Power Mac G4: Display Compatibility.
The Blue & White G3 is like the G4 PCI graphics.

Noise of WHITE iMacs

Due to gradient problems of the new ALU iMacs I consider buying an old WHITE one (of September 2006).
The new ALU ones are very quiet, but I've heard that some of the old WHITE ones are noisy (fan?).
Can you confirm this?
Regarding noise, are there differences between 20" and 24" WHITE iMacs?
Thanks!

NO noise refers to the fans on my new, just bought Jan 2008 iMac 2.4 ghz. The fans run constantly now (they run automatically quietly but I have adjusted them to cool this mac down to temps under 50ºC)
My white iMac 2006 never made a peep. The screen just kept developing vertical lines. Please check out the display section of discussions with regard to that model. Be aware.

Need to ID G4 part:socket came off logic board (blue & white power cable

In the course of disassembling a G4 iBook the socket for the blue & white power cable wiring harness broke off the logic board.
I am trying to learn the correct desciption of this part so I can find a replacement. The wires on the bottom which were soldered to the board broke off.
Even after it was broken off, and I had leverage, I had to use two pairs of pliers to get the plug out of this socket. It should never have been assembled so tightly.

Spud-- I'm going to use conductive epoxy; I don't have access to anyone with micro soldering skills.
re previous posts -- unfortunately the Search logic is not precise enough to ask about this particular connector. Any search containing "logic board" gets swamped with the famous failure issue.
I went to an electronics specialty store and they didn't have any connectors of that style, let alone size. I'd like to replace the socket so I can use the existing plug on the blue & white wire.
Last night I spend some hours surfing "connector" etc and didn't see any photos that matched it on any distributor/manufacturer sites. So I'm still wondering what the correct descriptive word is, as used in the trade.
My "backup" iBook G3/Panther is taking about 30 seconds to load an average web page though. Spinner locks it up while loading one at a time. Wonder if installing Tiger and a newer Safari would help? I just got a chip to max out the memory, still have to install it.
For those who haven't seen it, the plug is a solid rectangle with two holes; the socket has a rectangular single cavity with two prongs sticking up from the bottom. TINY, THIN prongs.
The socket bottom has no leads on it (anymore). They are broken off flush with the plastic on the bottom. I was thinking of using a dental burr to grind into them, creating a small cavity, and then using conductive epoxy. I don't know if the bottom plastic is thick enough; if I go too far then it would ruin the prongs sticking up in the cavity.
But I could epoxy a wire stub, as long as possible to still fit into the space above the board & below the top of the shield/case. Then epoxy each wire to the pad on the board. The pads are about 1 mm x 2 mm or less, and worse, the gap between them is under 1mm wide. I'll have to goop some insulating silicone putty in that gap before putting tiny dabs of epoxy on the pads.
I bought some larger socket/plugs at the store, the socket part has no leads in it though. These sockets are they type that use the wire lead of the style shown in your photo of the repaired plug. I also got some different ones with flat prongs.
I'd like to move the connection point from the board to under the case top -- the blue & white wire runs all the way from the other side of the case. I just need a thin enough connector. Worst case -- leave as much slack wire length as possible and solder a Western Union splice.
If I can epoxy leads to the board without shorting between the pads I can figure something out. Need to carefully estimate the space available. Or as you say, just make some prongs.
You say #26 is the right wire gauge -- that's vital data. I don't want to undersize the power leads !
I'm also going to paint non-conductive coating on the board around the pad area, so I can slop the epoxy without worrying about shorting a trace. I've had to do some scraping to remove the gummy gluey stuff -- I presume its silicone adhesive of some kind.
There is some sort of test connection right above this area, with two little prongs sticking up. Marked "J1." The traces look like they go to the socket. I wonder if they use that to use alligator clips to power up the board during assembly testing? That location is much, much larger than the pads for the socket.

Blue & White G3 upgrade to G4?

Hello - I have an old G3 Blue/white which I would like to use to run a slideshow in my gallery. How do I upgrade this machine to achieve this? I don't need to use the machine for anything beyond running a slideshow through an LCD projector. Thanks.

What are the requirements of the slide show app? What are the specs on your G3 B&W?
If your G3 is near stock, it's probably worth less than $50. So it's not cost effective to spend many $ on an upgrade.
 Cheers, Tom

Blue/White iMAc G3 233mhz/32mg 512cache

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