Boot Problem - CPU Initialization

Hi, I just put together my K8N Neo Platinum and flashed 1.4 BIOS, yet I am still having a problem where my computer boots perfectly from a cold boot, but when it is rebooted it has no display, doesn't go to BIOS, yet all parts in the computer are running. If I simply hit the reset button, it boots fine. In other words, if not from a cold boot, I have to reset it every other time for it to boot correctly.
The D-Bracket error that I get is CPU Initialization; I have read up on this and most people say this is a RAM or PSU issue. I am running 1x512MB Crucial PC2100 and 1x256MB Crucial PC2100, and they run perfectly. So the only thing I can think of is the PSU.
How do I fix this problem and if it is the PSU, what is a good one for this board? Thanks.
MSI K8N Neo Platinum - BIOS v1.4
AMD Athlon 64 3200+
ATI Radeon 9700
768MB Crucial PC2100
Cooler Master PSU - 350W w/ 16A @ +12V

Quote
Originally posted by uberstevez
No, my RAM is running at 133mhz, so I don't think overclocking is the issue.
I didnt overclock my rams either when i got a cold-boot issue.
My rams are PC4000 , but they cant even run at 250MHZ.
If i set to 1:1@250MHZ, sometimes the board cant cold-boot.
But @240 1:1, it runs fine.
So i sold them and get one 512MB stick of A-data PC4000 ram, now i dont get a cold-boot issue anymore.

Similar Messages

Cpu socket looks strange-can be cause of boot problem?

Actual question: can cpu socket like on attached picture cause boot problems?
tinypic.com/r/1pxnxs/6
(Some pins look strange while I am sure I did not do anything which can cause that)
(Sorry was not able attach pic, so shared on external site - blame android?)
I got problem with booting msi g33m motherboard, I tried various ways and was able to boot couple times, but after reboot the problem returns. When disassembly components for nth time, I noticed strange hole in cpu socket, so I wonder if it can be reason for boot problems? Currently fans run in ÷half speed when nothing connected to mb, if I connect gpu or sata drive, fans are pulsing, and led near power button on tower is blinking, but nothing more happens.

The pin(s) are bent it seems and can be carefully bent back to proper alignment most of the time using tweezers and or tiny jewelers/eyeglass screwdriver.
Yes the problem you describe can definitely be caused by poor pin contact with the pads on the CPU. Depending on what pins are bent or make poor contact there could be many different kinds of problems. In fact many more on newer ones with memory controller and other controllers in the CPU that used to be in the northbridge chip. If you or a friend, family member can't bend pin(s) back into alignment then possibly you could have a local jeweler or watch repair shop do it for you.

1st series iMac G5: Booting problems, kernel panics, waking from sleep...

Specifications of the iMac described: 1.8 Ghz, 1GB, 80GB, 64 Mb Nvidia VRAM, Airport, 10.5.5
Back in August 2004 my dad bought us kids an iMac G5 for ‘family use’. It had a fresh install of 10.3.5 on it and compared to the (1999) iMac G3 it replaced it was amazingly fast.
The iMac never showed any signs of probable issues, until we decided to upgrade to Leopard in January 2008. Initially, this upgrade was only meant to be able to sync with the latest iPod nano (who demanded a newer version of iTunes).
After the installation the first thing I noticed was a high CPU usage, the machine seemed slower than ever and that with 1 Gb of RAM (the minimum sys. req. for Leopard are 512 Mb of RAM). Anyway, then the real thing started, it wouldn’t turn on anymore. We brought it to an Authorized Apple Reseller, the Tech department said the Logic board had failed. The costs of the fix weren’t the worth the computer anymore, so...end of story. The iMac was indeed one of the bad series, although it hadn’t any swollen capacitors.
My dad already made up his mind and bought himself a Macbook. He then told me that if I was able to get the broken iMac fixed, I could keep it. And so, I bought an ‘as-is’ logic board on Ebay. Last weekend I installed it, and it actually seemed to work! Yet, the problems are during the startup: the first thing I see is a screen full with horizontal lines flickering all the time, like an old TV with bad signal. Mostly it won’t boot and I get the message to restart the computer (kernel panic, I got dozens of logs already!). Sometimes it got stuck during booting (grey apple screen with gear in the middle) making the fans go crazy (after a while) and sounding what others describe as a ‘jetliner taking off’ sound. Sometimes the screen remains black. Generally it takes me 5 to 10 minutes to start up properly. Maybe it’s just me but it seems like when the computer has warmed up a little (by turning on and off on and on) starting up gets smoother. I mean the startup screen suffers from less horizontal flickering lines.
During the use of Leopard, I again get high CPU usage, especially when I use multiple programs at the same time, or when starting multiple programs. My iStat Pro said once that the fans were running at 4700 rpm and the heat of the CPU was about 70 Celsius. If I really want to **** my iMac off I should play a racing game. That just totally freaks him out! These problems could probably be solved by adding more RAM. Right?
The iMac also has a sleep problem. Sometimes after lets say an hour or so, you can’t get it out of sleep mode (by manipulating keyboard and/or mouse, the sleep light stops, but the screen stays off --> only solution is to restart). What happened to me once was that it slept so long that it just got into a deep sleep by turning itself off completely!
Here’s a list of what I tried so far:
- Disk Utility: Resetting the permissions, no problems were found.
- Resetting the SMU, both on the logic board itself as by pressing the power button 5 - 8 seconds, no improvements.
- Resetting the PRAM, no improvements.
- Did the Hardware test of the original install CD, nothing was found, all good.
- Did Archive and Instal, this actually messed my system entirely, cause it wouldn't boot at all and when starting up from the Leopard installation DVD it wouldn't recognize the Macintosh HD.
- Did Archive and Instal with the original disks, this disk did recognize Macintosh HD and so I installed the original system, 10.3. Booting problems and those flickering lines are still there though.
Next phase will be erase and install, but first I want to know what you guys think about all this.
Oh eh, One more thing; The guys at Applecare (phone support) told me that the replaced logic board was also out of warranty and so they couldn’t help me. But as the man on the phone was kind, he told me to go look for a special ‘driver’ on the net. He said that the driver should be able to resolve some of the issues described. He said that I had to give in the name of the LB on google and look for results. Is this bogus? Because I haven’t found anything useful on google so far. What’s the name (rather than a number) of the LB in the first place?
I hope you guys can give me some answers. I'm kinda desperate. But I still feel there's hope...

The symptoms of a flakey power supply are sleep problems and you have done all the right things as far as resetting the SMU and PRAM. Your CPU usage can be tracked by going to Utilities>Activity Monitor - look and see what is hogging the memory. The flickering lines could also be an optical system going south.
The other thing you can do is run DiskWarrior or TechToolPro to see if you have corrupted directories. Preferential Treatment will let you check for corrupted preferences.

MSI P45 Neo-f with intermittent boot problems

Current system:
*CPU: Intel core2duo 4300 1,80GHz
Mobo: MSI P45 Neo-F LGA775
*Memory: 1 Kingston 1GB PC2-5300 667MHz DDR2 and 1 Dane-Elec 1GB PC2-5300 667MHz DDR2
Videocard: Club3D Nvidia 8800GT 512MB GDDR3
*Hard drive: 120GB IBM deskstar 7200rpm Ultra-ATA/100 (yes I realize it is known as the deathstar, but it hasn't failed so far, I do back-up because I'm paranoid
PSU: Real Silent Nexus NX-5000 500 watt
*Soundcard: Soundblaster Audigy
OS: Windows XP home, service pack 2
*Lite-on IT dvd-rom drive
*floppy disk drive
I also have 3 case fans spinning away in a marginally large Chieftec Dragon tower.
The parts I marked with an asterisk (*) are parts that I removed from my old rig and re-used.
I'll try to give a clear rundown of my problem and the steps I've taken so far.
3 days ago I acquired the P45 Neo and installed it into my system, together with the 8800GT videocard. I was still using my old PSU, a Chieftec 360watt. This PSU served me well for 7 years, but it was starting to build up noise while trying to keep up games on my old rig.
I had some trouble getting the system to boot, I tried changing some of the 4 pins wires going to the hard drive and the dvd drive. I don't know if it was luck or if I managed to divide the load properly for the system to boot. But I succeeded into booting up, got into the bios and eventually installed WinXP.
As soon as it was time to install the videocard drivers, it stopped responding. I assumed it was a power issue, since I could only install the 20pin and 4pin cpu, but my Chieftec PSU didn't have a 24pin plug to the mobo - and it needed replacing anyway! So I bought a new 500watt PSU that had all the required plugs and more wattage.
I installed the new PSU, checked every connection and pressed the power button. 'Lo and behold, the computer starts up. I install the videocard drivers and it proceeds with no problems. I try to install the soundcard, but the cd says I don't have one installed. I fix that by going to the System list and install the drivers from there. I install a firewall. By then I have successfully rebooted the computer 3 or 4 times. I decide all is well and turn off the computer. But I realize I wanted to check up something on the internet.
I press the powerbutton. The PC power light go up for just a fraction of a second. I can see the blue LED of one of the case fans switching on just as briefly - then it goes out. The computer keeps trying to turn itself on. It looks like it's hickupping to try and boot!
I turn off the PSU power on the back-side because the computer keeps trying and wait for a bit. After 10 minutes, it still doesn't work. I leave the computer for a bit and return an hour later. The computer then starts up with no problems. I turn it off after a few hours, do a reset, start it up, no problems. But then the next day it happens again.
It's pretty tough figuring out what the problem is because it looks..almost random. I considered it could be a heat issue, but sometimes it *does* start up just after it's been turned down. Checking the bios shows no strange temperature shifts.
Hope anyone can help me, because I do not want to go back to my old Asrock mobo

While powered down I cleared the cmos data, removed the Dane Elec DDR2 module and set the bios to optimized defaults. Computer restarted to WinXP with no problems (it has been off the whole night). I shut down WinXP, wait a few moments and then turn the computer back on. Alas, it won't start and starts hick-upping. I turn power off at the PSU again, so it stops.
Now I try switching out the Kingston module instead. By now the computer has been off for 10 min (while I write this entry on laptop). I press the power button on the PSU and then the power button on the front. There is a short pause, lasting a second. The computer turns on, longer now, but it only lasts 2 whole seconds before it turns off again and goes on again (I believe now you can call it powercycling). It repeats this process until I shut off the PSU.
I check to see if I have installed it properly and try again but it starts powercycling again.
15 min pass, I put the Kingston module back in, press the power button and voila, this time it does start. WinXP shows up, no problems. I leave it on for a bit and then shut down. And when I press the power button again - the feeling of dread returns, when it starts hickupping again.
I'm going to see if I can install one of the memory modules from my housemate. Then hopefully tommorrow, I'm going to try if I can test a different PSU, since I see someone else on the forum - who recently posted, has the exact same power supply and also has boot problems, coincidence... or not ^^;.

Booting Problems

Booting Problems
Help !! my new K8N does not boot from Hard Disk (sorry for very bad english)
My bios detect
Ide Primary MAster : Maxtor 40 Gb -34098H4 5400 rpm Ultra-ATA/100
Ide Primary Slave : ---
Ide Secondary Master : Seagate 120 gb Barracuda - st3120026a 7200 rpm
Ide Secondary Slave : CD-Rom Sony
1st/2nd/3rd Boot Device :Floppy / CD-ROM / Hard Drive
I Format my first partition in NTFS (maxtor) installing XP then not Boot from my hard disk ...only boot from my bootable Xp CD
When i boot up it says
"Verifying DMI Pool Data ..........
DISK BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER"
Finally work!! ...but only work if I turn off Secondary Master & Slave in Bios ==> (NONE)
I change my the IDE HDD cable , jumpers , etc
The memory works good in my old PC (athlon 2.0 hs -MSI k4 ultra)
any suggestion , idea or opinion ? Thanks
CPU AMD Athlon™ 64 Processor 3200+ Newcastle
BIOS Award Phoenix - AwardBIOS v6.00PG
BIOS Award W7030NMS V1.4 082604
MSI K8N Neo Platinum (nVIDIA nForce3-S, AMD Hammer)
Soundblaster Live 5.1
Font Vitsuba Vtx-45-C (450 w)
ATI Radeon 9600 XT 128 mb (RV360) (Asus A9600XT) Internal DAC(400MHz)
Samsung SyncMaster 905DF(X)/955DF(X)/MagicSyncMaster CD195A
Microsoft Windows XP Professional V5.1.2600 (WinXP Retail)
Service Pack 1
DIMM 1
Module Name SMT-OF-AMERICA
Module Size 256 MB (1 rows, 4 banks)
Module Type Unbuffered
Memory Type DDR SDRAM
Memory Speed PC2700 (166 MHz)
Module Width 64 bit
Module Voltage SSTL 2.5
Error Detection Method None
Refresh Rate Reduced (7.8 us), Self-Refresh
Memory Timings
@ 166 MHz 2.5-3-3-7 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS)
@ 133 MHz 2.0-3-3-6 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS)
DIMM 2
Memory Module Properties
Module Name SpecTek
Module Size 256 MB (1 rows, 4 banks)
Module Type Unbuffered
Memory Type DDR SDRAM
Memory Speed PC2700 (166 MHz)
Module Width 64 bit
Module Voltage SSTL 2.5
Error Detection Method None
Refresh Rate Reduced (7.8 us)
Memory Timings
@ 166 MHz 2.5-3-3-7 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS)
@ 100 MHz 2.0-2-2-5 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS)

hi Dzal,
1) Change
1st/2nd/3rd Boot Device :Floppy / CD-ROM / Hard Drive
1st/2nd/3rd Boot Device :Floppy / Hard Drive / CD-ROM
2) Bios
Advanced bios:
Hard Disk Boot Order
1st Maxtor 40 Gb -34098H4 5400 rpm Ultra-ATA/100
2nd Seagate 120 gb Barracuda - st3120026a 7200 rpm
if no [Pageup] [Pagedown] until Maxtor 40 Gb -34098H4 5400 rpm Ultra-ATA/100 top
save & exit
good luck

A very strange boot problem not yet found in the User Forums

Hi
I know you guys are fed up with all the booting problems, but this one is the strangest one I've yet come across.
I'm putting a PC together to function as an extra render for my 3D animations. Here is the specs as follows.
865PE Neo2-P Mobo
Intel Pentium 4 2.8GHz Processor
2 x 256 DDR 400MHz Memory modules (two of the exact same make and model)
300w PSU
60GB HDD Maxdor
nVidia nForce 5600
here is the problem.
It goes past the post, but then the system stops there. It does not go to boot at all.
In the top of the screen below the memory testing and above the HDD and DVD Ram listings it displays as follows:
DEL -> Bios, F12 - Boot Menu etc.
when i press any of keys listed there, that line changes accordingly to the function I selected.
I can get into the BIOS.
But the Motherboard does not boot any further, it just stays there.
I tried diffrent memory, CPU, Powersupply etc, but to no avail.
(I disabled the QUICK BOOT options to see what problems it may give, but it lists none what so ever.)
On the motherboard, where the DIMM2 starts and the MSI CoreCell chip, to above the IDE1 connector to the full length of the IDE connectors, it looks like the transistors/chips connections has a kind of plaque, it does not shine like the rest. Could that be the problem? How can I clean it?
Please help, this is sort of urgent!!!!!!

Disconnect hard & optical drives........
Power up system.
Do you still have freeze on post? (Start up)
I would also concur with Bas, 300w psu no go.
Intel P4 478 2.4 and above Northwood processors are very power hungry. You would be advise to look for PSU with at least 24amps on the +12V rail....... (Enermax 465 and some 365's or the new Corsair VX 450)

MSI X79-GD65(8D) gives a posting error 63 Late CPU Initialize

Hey Guys.
I have recently purchased new hardware.
MSI X79-GD65(8D) Motherboard
Intel i7 3820 CPU
4 X Corsair Vengeance 4GB DDR3-1600 RAM
MSI GTX660Ti Power edition GPU
Corsair 750W Professional series PSU
Corsair H80 CPU Cooler
I haven't overclocked ht e mobo, but on cold boot, the mobo doesn't initialize, gives a post error 63, refered to the mobo manual, it says it means late CPU initialize. Checked the BIOS, running version 1.7 and according to MSI download site for the CPU support list.
The memory is in quad channel as it shows in a diagram in the mobo manual. If I switch the pc off, and back on, it initializes and boots, the pc runs stable, it can run 48 hours no hassle, passes burn in tests to, just the first cold boot doesn't initialize.
Any ideas for what to look at would be great.
Thank you.

A little hint for you: Don't try any of the .1B betas as they run horrible. I had to remove the latest .1B3 as it bricked the board and had to be recovered.
1.18 B7 is still the best bios to use:
Quote from: flobelix on 17-November-12, 00:49:07
I'd suggest the later Bios 1.18 B7 which I'm also using with the i7-3820 (https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=154186.msg1192427#msg1192427)

Cold boot problem with X-FI Fata1ty card... Need serious help!

Hey guys:
I just finished upgrading my computer. Realized that I have a cold boot problem. In order to identify the source of problem. I began the following test.
. Remove everything except, cpu, heatsink, ram, video card. Tried to boot with those devices. => No cold boot problem.
2. Install the rest of the ram sticks (I have 4 x 52 in total). => No cold boot problem.
3. Install the other video card (my setup is 7900gtx in SLI) => No cold boot problem.
4. Install the Creative X-FI Fataty card. => COLD BOOT PROBLEM
Once the computer is shut down via the front power switch on the case, the computer will not boot again. To boot the computer, I need to switch off the main power switch on the back of the psu and switch it back on; then turn on the computer via the front power switch on the case. I tried the problem with and without the sound card. Whenever the sound card is installed. There is the problem. If there is no that sound card in my rig, then there won't be any cold-boot problem.
My rig specs:
DFI Lanparty nF4 SLI-DR Venus
AMD Opteron 65 CCBE 609 - Stock speed
4 x 52 MB G.Skill Samsung TCCD LE 2.85V DDR 400
CPU Cooling - Tuniq tower 20
2 x EVGA 7900 GTX Stock - SLI
3 x WD Raptor 74G RAID-0 SATA (-3) 0000 rpm (System)
x Seagate Barracuda 7200.7 60Gb 7200RPM NCQ SATA - 4 (Backup)
Pioneer Black DVR 0 DVD+/-RW - IDE /0
Lian-li PC-V 200B Plus-2 with little case mod
OCZ GameXstream 600W
Creative Fatalty Sound Card w/ Front Panel
Logitech Z5500 5. speakers
I need serious help. This problem is so annoying.
Tnanks and will greatly appreciate it.Message Edited by White_Hair on 0-27-200605:4 PM

The onboard sound is disabled. Unfortunately I sold the Seasonic PSU to my friend. The OCZ GameXStream is suppose to be the higher grade psu than Seasonic PSU. Also, the cold boot problem only exists if the sound card is plugged to the motherboard. I tried change different pci slot. It doesn't seem to help the problem. Thanks for the reply Message Edited by White_Hair on 2-02-200606:07 AM

Poll: Do you have cold boot problem with SB X-FI Fatal1t

Hi guys:
I have post a thread regarding the cold boot problem with SB X-FI Fatalty and OCZ GameXStream 600W SLI power supply combination. Apparently, no one has answer to that . In addition, I have recently RMA'd my psu and received a brand-new unit. The same problem still exists. If the problem is really with the power supply, doesn't matter what kind of the setup I have, I should still have the cold-boot problem. However, it doesn't seem like that. Doesn't matter what kind of cards I put on the motherboard, as long as the SB X-FI Fatalty card is there, there is cold boot problem (even with the setup of cpu, mother, ram, and the sound card only, WITHOUT video card and harddri've). And for other different setup without the SB X-FI Fatalty card, there is no cold boot. The cpu and memory are running at stock speed.
My post regarding the cold boot issue:
http://forums.creative.com/creativelabs/board/message?board.id=soundblaster&message.id=79753
There is one user on the forum saying he has the same problem. Therefore, I think it might be the imcompatibility between the X-FI Fatalty and OCZ GameXStream PSU.
I would like to know how many people that has the same problem that I am having. So I can possibly narrow down the problem and contact OCZ tech support or creative tech support with more information. It would also be benefitical to those who have the same problem as I do.
Please post your system setup as well in the thread.
Greatly appreciate your opinions. Message Edited by White_Hair on 2-02-200604:58 AM
Message Edited by White_Hair on 2-02-200603:22 PM

I would venture to say that it isn't your powersupply, but more likely the X-Fi. I had troubles with my system, until I pulled out my X-Fi and replaced it with a non Creative Labs sound card. One of my troubles, which I incorrectly blamed on my powersupply was the ASUS A8R-MVP motherboard I had and the X-Fi XtremeMusic card, was after gaming for 4 hours, was the?sudden reboot of my system. Powersupply before, was an Antec TrueControl 2 550watt PSU. As it stands right now, I no longer have the parts mentioned and have a decent 700watt powersupply in my system, along with an ABIT AT8 32X motherboard. As you have probably seen there are a lot of problems with the X-Fi soundcards, and I in my right mind can't blame the motherboard, powersupply, motherboard chipset, ram, or any other component in ones system, if one is having trouble other than the X-Fi itself. I'll be honest, there is something quite frankly wrong with the X-Fi, and exactly what that is, I'll probably never know like most people.

MSI K8t NEO + Audigy Boot Problem only when power is unplugged on the PSU

I ran into a really weird problem today.
I switched the ps off by reaching back and pressing the button. I repress the button to power on the ps, then I click on the button in the fron of the case to power up the machine. System keeps rebooting itself every 1 sec. Bracket shows 4 red lights. In the manual, it says it means bad cpu. I remove the audigy and it boots fine. I install the audigy, 4 red lights.
So, This time instead of turning the puter off by using the button on ps. I used the button on the case by holding it down for 5 seconds. I reboot and puter boots normally.
So the problem is, if i turn the puter off by using the button on the PS and with audigy in the syste. Nothing on screen, and puter keeps rebooting itself every one second. Solution is to turn the puter off by using the button on the case.
Has anyone ran into this problem? I have never had this kind of problem. It is really weird. Any feedback is apreciated.
Oh and it is only with audigy. I tested this with original live, and also other PCI cards like nic, and another cheap sound card. Non of these cards showed this problem.

Cavemankr!
I never knew you could shut down the computer by holding down the start button for 5 seconds.... well I've never really had the need to...until I got this K8T Neo job. I wondered why it wouldn't turn off when I just pushed it. I've been using the PSU switch with these problems.
Yep! She booted right up. Audigy back in action. I also realized I had my PC hooked straight in the wall (while checking to see if my surge protector was working this weekend), so turning off the surge protector wasn't cutting power to the cheapo PSU.
So put me in your camp!
I'll just plug the PC straight into the UPS and keep power fed to the Enermax. I hope that was the cause of my keyboard/mouse cold boot problem also.
I'll assume the cheapo PSU will behave similarly. I don't really want to go through the swap again.
I wonder why that happens!
Buddy
Vor uns liegt ein weites tal
Die sonne scheint mit glitzerstrahl

FIS2R Boot problem

Hi just got a Neo Fis2r board and installed it into my new PC.
The Fans all start up and it starts to tick over but the screen wont turn on and i get this error on the D-Bracket that reads:
R R
G R
It's says that its the Init Keyboard Controller.
I've checked everything is plugged in and tested my keybord on another machine and it works fine on it, but on my new system it just hangs and wont do anything.
Have i installed something wrong or is there a problem with my board.
Has Anybody else had this happen...
Advice welcomed.
My Specs
INTEL P4 3.0Ghz
NEO FIS2R M/Board
2x Corsair twinX DDR400 512MB Ram
Thermaltake purepower 480Watt powersupply
160Gig Samaung Hard drive
No O/S Yet as i havn't got that far :(

I'm having boot problems with my new system too. I have upgraded my cpu/mobo/power/case/mem but with my OLD hard drives with Win XP Pro already installed.. and I can't boot into Windows, or anything for that matter. I have the 865PE neo2 board. You might want to check out my thread and some of the advice that was given..
my thread: "upgraded cpu, mobo, mem, case, power, NO BOOT!"
I still haven't been able to boot, but it might be useful to you. good luck

Occasional boot problem

sometimes when i boot my pc it crashes at the boot screen with the logo and it just freezes there ? it can happen on restart or cold start. any ideas as to why this is ? In normal running i get around 37-48 degrees C for CPU
2.4 @ 3.0
Vcore = 1.525 volts
mem = 2.65
AGP = 1.5 volts
thanks

nismohks,
If you´re OC you could check your bios-settings on this link:
http://www.msi.com.tw/program/service/forum/index.php?threadid=29142&sid=
and also read this link about boot problems:
http://www.msi.com.tw/program/service/forum/index.php?threadid=29792&sid=
good luck,.......

MSI G33M-FI and MSI 9600GT OC cold boot problem

So I just recently put together my new computer (MSI G33M-FI motherboard) and whenever I shut it down and turn it on the computer will turn off in about 3 seconds (you won't see the bios screen) and then it just turns on and off endlessly/ in a loop.
Fix is to clear CMOS and it will boot ok but whenever I turn it off (no restart..) the problem is back!, only clear CMOS helps...
Good thing I found the problem, the videocard (MSI 9600GT OC). When I switch it with my poorly ATI 1950pro I have no problem with a cold boot.
Using the latest bios version with the motherboard (on the MSI site). Havent flashed my 9600GT 512mb (red double slot cooler version) with a another bios yet though.. (if there is 1, just checked- no new bios).
Anyone got an idea how to fix this? I don't think so but maybe they should make a new bios to fix this?
Other parts from computer: Patriot extreme 4 gig (2x2) ddr2 performance (4-4-4-12, 2.2 volt) and an intel e8400 cpu.
Anyone else having this problem? Thanks...

I had cold-boot problems with my G33M-FI. Tried E2140 and Q6600 CPUs at stock voltages/clocks, tried two different sets of DDR2-800 RAM (4x1GB and 4x2GB), tried different CMOS batteries and tried two different power supplies (Thermaltake and Coolermaster 500W supplies). Regardless of combination of components, system would frequently fail to POST. Problems were experienced with integrated video (no add-on cards installed) and with/without any drives connected. Problems were also experienced with a single good stick of RAM in slot 1 vs. all four slots populated. Once booted, the system performed flawlessly passing memtest86+ and other reliability/stability tests. Once the system failed to boot, it would almost never boot again until I cleared the BIOS (sometimes requiring me to remove and reinsert the CMOS battery, since the jumper alone didn't cure the problem). Trial and error of different hardware combinations in an attempt to isolate the problem with a CMOS clear/recovery between attempts proved to be a very painful and tedious process. After speaking with MSI tech support, solution was to RMA the board.

MSI 848P Neo-V boot problem

Hi!
Boot problem still persists. First I thought it was due to the lack of CPU microcode support (tried to use Celeron D 325, I didn't get confirmation for this support from anywhere, a bit disputed thing). Now tried with a 2GHz northwood Celeron with no success. All parts are unused. Maybe my memories (2 x TWINMOS DDR-400MHz 256MB with m-tech chips) are not compatible with the motherboard.
Just came to my mind, does P4 systems require a heatsink for a POST operation, mean is there some sensors which make the CPU to refuse to work if no cooler is attached to mainboard? I tried to make things work traditionally without heatsink for a quick lookup...
-Thanks,
netnode

I did not understand. Is heat sink mandatory? At least P3 and earlier did not require heatsink. Once a boxed P2 (buil-in fan) required to attach the fan cord to the mainboard to boot up, so I also did this.

K9N2 Diamond & SLI Boot problem

Hello. I have a boot problem in my mb. My sli config is with 2 Gigabyte 8800 GT. I can enter windows and sli works fine. The problem is that i only have image in windows. I can't see post, so i can't access bios. Only when windows starts i get image. Tried the cards in a MSI K8N SLI Platinum and i had no problem. Image since i turn on computer. The cards in solo show image like in the MSI K8N. In bios i have the Hybrid SLI disabled, tried disable on-chip VGA but the pc won't boot. The customer service told me to update bios to version 2.3. I think that might be a bios beta version, i only know 2.1. There is a v2.2 to support the AM3 cpu's. Help !!

Quote from: 0125 on 18-September-09, 20:46:39
try to change the battery on your motherboard to see if it help. I believe that your battery of the motherboard is so weak so it won't able to show the POST.
The battery on the mainboard only powers the CMOS so it can store the BIOS settings. If the battery is failing, it will still start up, but BIOS settings will need to be re-set.

Boot Problem - CPU Initialization

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