Bootcamp Woes...Should be easy for you pros

Alright I'm gonna break this down as simple as possible
1) I had two partitions one large mac partition and one 80GB windows 7 partition. I tried to shrink my mac side and it created and empty space pushing the windows partition from number 4 partition to number 5.
2) I found a discussion on here using gdisc and I guess it moved 5 to 1 or made it look that way and did something to the MBR. I followed someones example. This brought my windows partition back but made my mac side disappear...and I know its still in there lurking.
3) Ive tried several utilities and tools. Some found the files but I need to actually boot the mac side to make a recovery ( I want my applications and everything) If I could just boot it one more time to make a recovery image then I could wipe my whole computer and start over.
4) The closest I got to finding the best information but I still didnt want to fix it was disk-boot-repair by sourceforge. Keep in mind that I can ONLY access windows at the moment. So don't even mention a mac side related solution....believe me I wish it was this simple.
Below are the images (excuse my crappy pictures) from the disk-boot-repair you can see that it sees the mac osx and something just isnt lined up right. The disk-boot-repair won't fix it because it found an EMI. Which I think is a good thing because I need that right?
Forgive me for sounding like a newb through all this but I got myself into this mess and I plan on fixing it and I'm learning along the way. Any help and I would be forever grateful.
Robbie

I appreciate your effort but I'm not even sure you read my post. I know now thats what I should have done and I messed up.
Now I'm trying to fix it. My mac files still exist somewhere on my hard drive. I just cant get it to boot because when I used gdisk it changed my partition numbers, MBR, etc.
I just need my mac to boot one more time to make a backup or figure out how to access the files enough to make a backup that I can restore. Then I will wipe hard drive, re-install. Use bootcamp assit. Restore windows and restore mac files.
I have too many important files to let this slide. This is why I'm going to all this effort. Using all these tools to try and get it to boot one more time. Should I have made a backup when I could still get the mac side to boot yes. But I know its all still there somewhere just not pointed in the right place when I try to boot.
Thanks

Similar Messages

S apple coming out with a new version for Macbook Pro MD101HN/A ? what should i go for Macbook Pro or Macbook air since my usage are basic mainy internet , word , excel , powerpoint etc.

Is apple coming out with a new version for Macbook Pro MD101HN/A ? what should i go for Macbook Pro or Macbook air since my usage are basic mainy internet , word , excel , powerpoint etc.

souvikfromKolkata,
you’ll know as soon as the rest of us do if Apple decide to produce a new non-Retina model. My guess would be that they won’t do so, but that’s only a guess.
With Internet, Word, Excel, and PowerPoint representing your main usage, either a MacBook Pro or a MacBook Air would be suitable for you.

Should i go for macbook pro 13" or air 13"

hey guys, now that i've been new macbook pro has come out light, thinner and with extra 4GB RAM, i just do not know if i should get macbook air or pro.
I am a college student where power ports are readily available in my campus. so battery life of 7~8 hours and up are totally fine.
Pros for macbook pro are:
BEAUTIFUL screen
better CPU & GPU (even though there may only be slight difference)
Good palm rest
Pros for macbook air are:
LIGHT AND THIN
EXTREMELY GOOD battery life
I have seen many reviews where they said difference in size and weight is negligible for a person with healthy body (lol) but also CPU and GPU difference are also negligible since it doesn't differ very much in terms of performance.
I do not know if those are true, but regardless, i wanted to get some advices from people who owns pro, air or even both.
Thanks in advance guys !
ps. i heard apple might come up with RETINA displace macbook air in late 2014 or early 2015. is it trust able?

Yes, you should be able to dual boot Windows 7 and above using a built-in utility called 'Bootcamp'. I personally has boot camped Windows 7 and Windows 8.1. Installing Windows only took about 10 minutes (lightning fast) and all the drivers installed correctly. Windows has never looked better =D
However, I will report one issue. In OS X Mavericks, you can use multi-touch gestures to interact with the system, for example two-finger scrolling, or pinch-to-zoom. In Windows, these multitouch gestures do not work on the trackpad at all. For me it was frustrating, and I ended up deleting Windows simply because of the fact that multi-touch is not supported by Windows. However, basic trackpad functions work, for example tracking, right-clicking, and dragging windows.
All other drivers are fully functional. If you need any assistance with Bootcamp, visit the Apple Support website, or just post in this same forum and I will be glad to help you.

Easy for you but hard for me

I am sure this will be a simple issue for you, but I am not an experienced Oracle person. I run SQL reports from an Oracle database every night for work. Now my bosses have put a large LCD monitor on the production floor and want the data from the Oracle DB to be shown on the monitor. They would like it presented in easy to read graphs or something that can be understood by a non technical person. The data must update around every 15 minutes. As I said, I have the SQL scripts already and I am wondering if there is an application I can use to do this sort of thing. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Here is one of the shorter SQL scripts and a few lines of the results from that script:
SELECT distinct Unit_status.serial_number, to_char(Unit_status.modified_date, 'DD/MON/YY'), Unit_status.model
FROM
unit_status
WHERE Unit_status.process = 'FQA'
AND Unit_status.pass_fail_indicator = 'P'
and unit_status.modified_date between
to_date('17-FEB-08 00:00','DD-MON-YY HH24:MI') and to_date('23-FEB-08 23:59','DD-MON-YY HH24:MI')
SERIAL_NUMBER     TO_CHAR(UNIT_STATUS.MODIFIED_D     MODEL
356433013809929     17/FEB/08     TMO5300BABLK
011288000241271     17/FEB/08     TMO2610BABLK
356433012117548     17/FEB/08     TMO5300BABLK
356433010946435     17/FEB/08     TMO5300BABLK
354829011549759     17/FEB/08     ATT6102IABLK
352268015709352     17/FEB/08     ATT6102IABLK
355536014470003     17/FEB/08     TMO6133BABLK

FAQ: What computer and components should I buy for Premiere Pro or After Effects?

See this page for the official minimum system requirements for Premiere Pro.
See this page for the official minimum system requirements for After Effects.
Note that the minimum system requirements are just that: a minimum to run the software. You will need components that exceed the minimum system requirements to achieve satisfactory performance in many cases.
These resources are also excellent starting points for informing such decisions:
"Hardware performance white paper: tips to configure or upgrade a workstation for video software"
What PC to build? An update... (Premiere Pro Hardware forum thread hosted by Harm Millaard)
What PC to build? (Premiere Pro Hardware forum thread hosted by Harm Millaard)
After Effects CUDA benchmark testing results (from Danny Princz)
After Effects CUDA benchmark testing results (from Teddy Gage)
Premiere Pro Benchmark test and performance reference materials
Resources for choosing a graphics card for Premiere Pro
Specific to the questions of certain kinds of components:
hard disks: Optimizing Hard Disks
CUDA/OpenCL cards for Premiere Pro: CUDA, OpenCL, Mercury Playback Engine, and what it all means
OpenGL in After Effects CS5.5 and earlier: GPU: OpenGL
CUDA and OpenGL in After Effects CS6 and later: GPU (CUDA, OpenGL) features in After Effects CS6 and later
Also see these resources:
optimizing for performance: Adobe Premiere Pro and After Effects

As David and Hal said
One thing to consider is that you may also want SATA capability (which you can do with G5 towers easily, the dual cores have cards available or will shortly) and also shortly (fingers cross) for the MacBooks (there are cards for PowerBooks.)
The only possible fly in the ointment is if you are going to hold onto these computers for awhile, with the Intel Chips the non-Intels will eventually have less support and software. Though for the short term (particularly if you are relying on non-Intel native apps and need peak performance) the Quad G5s are great.

Easy for you?

I'm losing my temper trying to achieve what I suspect is a trivial scripting task. In any case perhaps one of you will help me:
I want to select a range of .jpg files that have been captured into a folder and drag them over an automator app/folder --
1. A new folder is created and I'm able to name it
2. This folder becomes a placed inside another pre-determined folder.
3. The jpegs dragged over the app are moved into this new folder and are no longer in the original 'capture' folder

James Kayten wrote:
I'm going to photograph kids with Santa over a period of two weeks in multiple locations. I need each child's photos separated for privacy concerns.
lol - I have to say, that sounds just a little bit weird
I'm not sure I understand the problem, though - the script I gave should do that (your assistant will create and name the folder in the correct place with the 'choose folder' dialog). I mean, of course, we could write a script that would create the folder first and then ask your assistance for a new name, but I don't see what difference that makes to the process. see what I mean?
the 'move' command should actually move (not copy) the files, except if you're copying from or to an external disk or card. then it will copy. if that's the case, make this change:
to doit(theFiles)
set theFolder to choose folder with prompt "Please choose or create a folder"
tell application "Finder"
move theFiles to theFolder
delete theFiles
end tell
end doit
the delete command will move the originals to the trash. you can also add the line 'empty trash' to automatically empty the trash after the move, but it's probably better to let them sit in the trash until you're sure it's safe to delete them.

What RAM should I buy for Mac Pro?

I want to increase the speed of my Mac Pro but I'm not sure exactly which RAM to buy for my tower. I bought this Mac Pro in 2008 I believe. Any suggestions on which brands to buy and exactly which specific RAM?
Thanks.

There were half a dozen articles on MPG on memory upgrades, CS5/6 and more on SSDs to keep you reading!
When choosing boot drive SSD can make sense, so would 10K WD VR 250GB ($154)
Saving files you work on can take "too long" when you go from 300MB up to 2GB.
Disk drives may never get down to where they were (2TB WD Black $169) but large high density = high I/O and even the 1TB has gotten faster recently.
MPG goes into using SSDs on PCIe card but that has not always been ideal - better in the last two Mac Pro models.
The other 'big' ticket item has been the Nvidia GTX 570 2.5GB model ($500 though for a MacVidCards version) to help CS6 w/ 10.7.4 (and yes it helps but some are waiting for a GTX 680 instead but that could requirie 10.8 too).
But getting 4 x 2GB $110 16GB might make more sense using 667MHz instead of $220 for 2 x 4GB $220 800MHz. Both gets you 12GB, better but not ideal. For some, it is a stop gap rather than buy a 2010 or waiting for a new 2013 Mac Pro.
http://www.amazon.com/BUFFERED-PC2-5300-FB-DIMM-APPLE-Memory/dp/B002ORUUAC/
http://www.amazon.com/BUFFERED-FB-DIMM-PC2-6400-800MHz-SPECIAL/dp/B0062B2JRS/
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-VelociRaptor-WD1000DHTZ-10000RPM/dp/B007ZR YNVS/
WD Black 1TB (and others)
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Caviar-Internal-Desktop/dp/B0036Q7MV0/
SSD Crucial m4 128GB $119
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-2-5-Inch-Solid-State-CT128M4SSD2/dp/B004W2JKZI/r
I like WD 10k VR in latest series $200 500GB
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Drives-VelociRaptor-Enterprise/dp/B007VPGK 42/
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Drives-VelociRaptor-Enterprise/dp/B007V5A1 BK/
http://www.amazon.com/Velociraptor-WD1000DHTZ-SATA-Hard-Drive/dp/B007VPGJIY/
RAM stays with your Mac, disk drives are an investment.

This is going to be easy for you guys

hello all !
i'm working on simple createAccount page where login, email and other data are written to mySQL db thru dataProvider.
here's the snippet from my code of create button:
public String createAccount_action() {
            Object login=fieldLogin.getText();
            Object email=fieldEmail.getText();
            Object psw=fieldPsw.getPassword();
            membersDataProvider.cursorLast();
            membersDataProvider.setValue("members.login",login);
            membersDataProvider.setValue("members.email",email);
            membersDataProvider.setValue("members.psw",psw);
            membersDataProvider.commitChanges();
return null;
everything works fine except
Object psw=fieldPsw.getPassword();where fieldPsw is an id of Password Field component
i get NULL here
any ideas ?
thanks in advance !
null

ok i fixed it !
sorry i'm bothering you guys with such a trifle!
last night (actually it was dawning : / ) i was apparently too tired to think of virtual forms, i just forgot to add these fields to participate : /
sorry again and thanks for feedback

I need help... I know it's gonna be easy for you guys!!!

Hello,
I'm from Chile....
I have a table, and a i need to count the fields(columns) of that table... ¿how can i do it with a query or procedure in PL/SQL?
I'll appreciate if you help me
Thanks!!

If the table exists in your own schema then:
select count(*)
from   user_tab_columns
where table_name = <tablename>
If table is owned by some other user then:
select count(*)
from   all_tab_columns
where owner = <owner>
and    table_name = <tablename>
;

A simple script for you, a giant script for me-

I like scripts very much but scripting does not seems to like me! Can anyone help me and write a script for me? What I need is this:
1. Ungroup everything in a spread
2. A loop that goes through every text frame in the spread and, at the end of the text contained in each of those frames inserts a blank paragraph. (The frames contains text and inline graphics)
This may seems strange but is what I need.
Best regards and thank you in advance
Maria

I like scripts very much but scripting does not seems to like me! Can anyone help me and write a script for me? What I need is this:
It's much easier for you to show us what you have and then we'll fix it for you or tell you what is wrong. Then you'll learn something to!
1. Ungroup everything in a spread
This one's easy -- unless you're worried about groups inside groups?
app.activeWindow.activeSpread.groups.everyItem().ungroup()
If it's groups all-the-way-down, on the other hand, well, it might be more than one line...

I am receiving excel files, which I need to convert with my macbook pro...I did this with export, but the file I got didnt show graphs as it should...can you help...do I need to buy excel for Apple computer, or is there any easier way of dealing with it..

I am receiving excel files, which I need to convert with my macbook pro...I did this with export, but the file I got didnt show graphs as it should...can you help...do I need to buy excel for Apple computer, or is there any easier way of dealing with it..does App "Numbers" help here?

Numbers should be able to read Excel files without any problems. If Numbers does not read the graphics properly then you can try Excel Online. https://office.live.com/start/Excel.aspx

Should I keep my MacBook Pro or exchange it for more Ram and SSD space?

Hello,
I decided to purchase a MacBook Pro 15 inch with Retina display. I thought I would just bite the bullet and get it with the upgraded 16gb Ram and 512 SSD as I want this computer to last me at least 5 years. I don't know exactly what I will be using it for but potentially I will be running a small business with it as well as using it for photos, some videos and all the other things we all use everyday. This brought the total price tag up to about $2900 before tax. Way more than I wanted to spend, but again, I plan on this being my last computer purchase for at least 5 years...and this would be my only computer...not a secondary one but the primary one.
As I was asking the guy in Best Buy about any sales or discounts, he mentioned a MacBook Pro with retina display that was just retuned to the store by a lady that decided to go with a MacBook Air instead. It had been opened but not used and was in perfect condition. The sales manager said he could sell that one to me for $470 off the normal price. The problem was, it was the base model and only had 8gb Ram and 256gb SSD storage. So, I had the option of buying the computer I wanted...that I know would last me for years and years, for $2,900 OR buy the base model for $1,729. What would you do?
I decided to buy the base model as it was just to good a deal to pass up. Now, 2 days later, I don't know if I made the right decision. I know that 256gb of memory is not going to last me very long...especially considering how much more space modern software takes up nowadays...and its only getting worse. My solution is to just buy an external hard drive and store everything I don't immediately need on it. But I don't know if I'm being realistic as maybe it will be a major pain to constantly have to carry around an extra storage device. Then again, even if I had the 512 SSD model MacBook, I would still eventually run out of space and need an external drive. Has anyone else relied on an external device for their daily computing needs? Is it a major nuisance or easy to get by with?
My bigger concern is that it only has 8gb of Ram and can NOT be upgraded in the future. 8gb ram is fine right now, especially with the flash drive and i7 quad core processor, but in a couple years, I'm afraid it won't be enough and that ill be forced to purchase another computer. The sales manager said that because its a Mac and because of the "monster processor" that the 8gb of Ram will be more than enough for years to come. According to him, Macs require less Ram than PC's due to their operating system being much more efficient. (This is my first Mac so I'm a bit unfamiliar)
So this is my dellima, should I return the base model and buy the one I originally wanted or should I make do with the base model and be thankful for the great deal I was able to get?
Will the 8gb of Ram be enough in a few years? I realize that depends on what I'm using the computer for but, since I'm not sure what my needs will be in the next year, lets assume I'll be using it to run a small business as well as the typical storage of pictures and home videos, etc.
Bottom line, will the 8gb of ram be enough to prevent the need to buy another computer for another 5 years or so or do I need to suck it up, return the base model, pay the extra $1,100 and get the 16gb of ram I originally wanted?
Sorry for the long story, I just need some solid advice as money is tight and I want to make the right decision. I'd rather pay $1,100 extra now and not need to buy a new computer for 5-6 years than save the money now but have to buy a whole new computer in 1-2 years. If however, the 8gb ram will still make for a solid computer in a few years, I will gladly save the money.
Thanks in advance for your help. ;-)

Generally (and in my opinion):
1) do not buy any computer you cannot replace the hard drive and the RAM in.
2) do NOT (EVER, EVER, EVER) purchase RAM or expended hard drive from any vendor (like Apple, Dell, etc). they mark up the RAM
purchase the lowest machine that will work for you and upgrade the RAM and hard drive down the road. Just look at the price Apple charges for the upgrade from 4GB to 8 GB:
Apple is charging the (4GB RAM + $100) for the 8GB upgrade. You can easily get 8GB for $100. later you should be able to get 8GB for $60.
Same thing for the hard drives:
Applis charging the price of (500GB + $100) for the 750GB drive. I just bought a 750GB notebook drive for $99
I, personally, would return the retina notebook for a MacBookPro that you can upgrade the hd and ram

What virus protection should i download for my macbook pro

i just got my macbook pro and want to know what virus protection program should i download for free

This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an attacker who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files. The recognition database is automatically updated once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders. In most cases, there’s no benefit from any other automated protection against malware.
Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there is another layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications that are downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Applications certified in this way haven't actually been tested by Apple (unless they come from the Mac App Store), but you can be sure that they haven't been modified by anyone other than the developer, and his identity is known, so he could be held responsible if he knowingly released malware. For most practical purposes, applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed can be considered safe. Note, however, that there are some caveats concerning Gatekeeper:
It doesn't apply to software that comes packaged as an installer. Treat all third-party installers with caution.
It can be disabled or overridden by the user.
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets (see below.)
It only applies to applications downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
For more information about Gatekeeper, see this Apple Support article.
Notwithstanding the above, the most effective defense against malware attacks is your own intelligence. All known malware on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. If you're smarter than the malware attacker thinks you are, you won't be duped. That means, primarily, that you never install software from an untrustworthy source. How do you know a source is untrustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. [Some reputable websites did legitimately warn users who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.]
“Cracked” copies of commercial software downloaded from a bittorrent are likely to be infected.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. No intermediary is acceptable.
Java on the network (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related) is always a potential weak spot in the security of any operating system. If Java is not installed, don't install it unless you really need it. If it is installed, you should disable it (not JavaScript) in your web browsers. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This setting is mandatory in OS X 10.5.8 or earlier, because Java in those obsolete versions has known security flaws that make it unsafe to use on the Internet. The flaws will never be fixed. Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java can never be fully trusted, even if no vulnerabilities are publicly known at the moment.
Follow these guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can reasonably be.
Never install any commercial "anti-virus" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav — nothing else.

What antivirus protection should I purchase for my MacBook Pro? MacSecurity.app appeared on my desktop, and I downloaded that. Since then, it has said my computer is infected and pop-ups have been appearing.

What antivirus protection should I purchase for my MacBook Pro? MacSecurity.app appeared on my desktop, and I downloaded that. Since then, it has said my computer is infected and pop-ups have been appearing.

You've been infected by a scam trojan. You don't need any anti-virus software on your Mac. See the following about getting rid of the trojan.
Trojan War
If you discover a trojan program is running on your computer then look to the following information for assistance:
1. A recent discussion on the Apple Support Communities: MacDefender Trojan.
2. An excellent site devoted to Mac Malware: Macintosh Virus Guide
3. Another site for removing MacDefende, et.al.: MAC Defender Rogue Anti-Virus analysis and Removal
4. A new removal utility - MacDefenderKiller
Removing strange software can be a task. The following outlines various ways of uninstalling software:
Uninstalling Software: The Basics
Most OS X applications are completely self-contained "packages" that can be uninstalled by simply dragging the application to the Trash. Applications may create preference files that are stored in the /Home/Library/Preferences/ folder. Although they do nothing once you delete the associated application, they do take up some disk space. If you want you can look for them in the above location and delete them, too.
Some applications may install an uninstaller program that can be used to remove the application. In some cases the uninstaller may be part of the application's installer, and is invoked by clicking on a Customize button that will appear during the install process.
Some applications may install components in the /Home/Library/Applications Support/ folder. You can also check there to see if the application has created a folder. You can also delete the folder that's in the Applications Support folder. Again, they don't do anything but take up disk space once the application is trashed.
Some applications may install a Startup item or a Log In item. Startup items are usually installed in the /Library/StartupItems/ folder and less often in the /Home/Library/StartupItems/ folder. Log In Items are set in the Accounts preferences. Open System Preferences, click on the Accounts icon, then click on the LogIn Items tab. Locate the item in the list for the application you want to remove and click on the Delete [-] button to delete it from the list.
Some software use startup daemons or agents that are a new feature of the OS. Look for them in /Library/LaunchAgents/ and /Library/LaunchDaemons/ or in /Home/Library/LaunchAgents/.
If an application installs any other files the best way to track them down is to do a Finder search using the application name or the developer name as the search term. Unfortunately Spotlight will not look in certain folders by default. You can modify Spotlight's behavior or use a third-party search utility, Easy Find, instead. Download Easy Find at VersionTracker or MacUpdate.
Some applications install a receipt in the /Library/Receipts/ folder. Usually with the same name as the program or the developer. The item generally has a ".pkg" extension. Be sure you also delete this item as some programs use it to determine if it's already installed.
There are many utilities that can uninstall applications. Note that you must have this software installed before you install software you may need to uninstall. Uninstallers won't work if you install them after the fact. Here is a selection:
AppZapper
Automaton
Hazel
CleanApp
Yank
SuperPop
Uninstaller
Spring Cleaning
Look for them and others at VersionTracker or MacUpdate.
For more information visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQs on removing software and dealing with spyware and malware.
After removing all the components of the software you may have to restart the computer to fully disable the software. This will be the case when removing software that has installed a daemon. After the daemon has been removed you need to restart the computer to stop the daemon. Alternatively, you can kill the daemon process using the Terminal application or Activity Monitor.

What Windows 8 Should i Buy for Bootcamp?

I do not have a windows OS of any kind installed on my mac. I would like to get windows 8 for my mac from amazon.co.uk .
Windows 8 Pro, Upgrade Edition [Upgrade from Windows XP, Windows Vista, Windows 7] (PC)- this is the main one that pops up but its an upgrade??
When i search windows 8 on amazon.co.uk and on other sites the only products i see are upgrades from older versions, but i dont have any older versions of the Windows OS installed on my computer. So to cut a long story short, what windows 8 should i buy for bootcamp. Please could you provide a link, preferbly amazon or if not a UK website.
Thanks.

Here are a few links I could find that are aparently the full install not an upgrade. I'd check with the seller to be sure though.
http://www.jr.com/microsoft/pe/MSI_8PR64B1PK/
http://www.softwareking.com/WIN8.html?gclid=CNTc4t7nprMCFQ2znQod0nQA6Q
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832416552&Tpk=32-416-552
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832416550&Tpk=32-416-550

Bootcamp Woes...Should be easy for you pros

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for