Booting up k8 neo2 without CMOS jumper

Hey guys, i just bought a new k8 neo2 platinum and when i reset the cmos jumper i forgot to put it back to its original pin location, i acutally only put it on the bottom pin (oops, guess i shouldnt work on my pc without contacts on) Anyway, i booted it up and it would not post, i found out it was the jumper later. My question is this, is it bad for the system to boot up without the jumper in the right spot, like did that cause damage to the cpu/mobo when i did that? everything works fine now, but just wondering
thanks alot
JR

It turns out that windows wont activate the wireless zero config tool, so my wifi card won't connect. The boot problem was caused by adding a linsys wireless g usb adapter which stilldoesn't make sense, but I have a system without the internet now.
"Memory note: C2 is a better performer than the xms xl and ll series. runs great with vdimm at 2.7, 218HT at (msi order) 2.0,3.0,8,2.0 timings...I have done extensive testing with memory modules on this board, before I decided to super cool it"

Similar Messages

Clear CMOS - without moving jumper/pins

Thinking about trying to OC my 3000+(W)@Neo2.
My case and eq. in genreall makes it hard to clear CMOS the "old way", and I remember someone telling of a keystroke one could do under reboot to clear CMOS.
How can I do this on the Neo2 and what are the dissadvantages?

Quote
Syar2003
If "Ins" Key is held down when powering up , system starts with reduced fsb and other safe settings . Making that clear cmos jumper uneccesary when OC has gone bad.
Note ! It must be powered off and powered on with the key pressed (just restart key + "ins" wont work).

CMOS jumper - to leave clear or not ?

I had a major disaster with my P4 2ghz computer, and have not a clue why I get nothing whatsoever on my monitor. At first I thought it was the graphics card. But thats buzzing away as it always has. I thought it was the cpu, as I had to take out the HD and needed to take out the cooler to do get at it, and in doing so some of the pins bent. I thought I had sorted it, as although it refused to boot up, due to some problem about active partitions on the other HD I had, it still got something on the monitor. Only after having to remove the cpu to put in a new HD, nothing whatsoever came up. So after I had originally thought it may be the card, I bought in an MSI KM3M-V, not state of the art but enough until next year when I intend to replace my computer. I have an AMD XP 2000+ and intended to use the old memory (2100) from my old board, which was also MSI made. (Wont make any difference that the board was a pentium board will it ?)
Anyway, I noticed that someone had said something about how the "CMOS jumper" is set to clear and should be changed for the thing to start. Only he said nothing about HOW, or where the damn thing is ! Can anyone help ? I am a complete beginner.

I had no intention of doing anything so barmy ! Where d'you get that idea from ?

K8T Neo2-F CMOS/GPNV & checksum bad

Ok, i finally got the system to POST so I could set the BIOS. After setting the BIOS, i save and exit. But now it wont POST again and locks up. I have to Clear CMOS again and re-do the BIOS.
After the I get it to POST I always get CMOS/GPNV and/or checksum bad or CMOS wrong.
How should the BIOS be set(if this is the problem) for a AMD64 3400+ 939 pin and PC3200 DDR400 RAM?

So far so good. Its running with no probs now. I'd say its officially fixed. I will look at uping performance in BIOS later on after I game test it.
My problems and their fixes were:
1st Problem- No boot to POST, just fans and drives spinning, system hung up and unable to reset.
Fix- Re-cycled the Clear CMOS jumper(JBAT1)
2nd Problem- Boot to POST, stuck at test screen due to bad CMOS. Error: CMOS wrong, or CMOS/GPNV checksum bad. Attempts to correct CMOS settings would cause 1st Problem all over. Same JBAT1 fix to get back to 2nd Problem with same error messages.
Fix- in CMOS set DDR400 to DDR333.
Result- Hassle free boot, POST and system install. No other problems found. Woohoo!
Thanks to everyone for their help.
Special thx to painkiller666.

Lenovo G550 cmos jumper position?

Hello!
My crazy wife locked the bios... Where on mobo can I find cmos jumper? Cmos juper remove the bios password?
Lenovo G550
Model name: 20023
SN: CBxxxxxxxx
MO:CB00021452
Factory ID: PRC4
Moderator Note; s/n edited for members own protection

That's unfortunate
The forum rules forbid discussing about how to get around passwords and other security measures.
No posts shall include instructions or directions intended to
subvert security measures, including passwords, locking mechanisms,
fingerprint scans, etc, nor shall any posts provide descriptions to the
location of, nor direct links to content related to these topics.
Hopefully you've checked the usual like caplocks or numlocks.
Sorry, but I have to lock this thread.
Andy ______________________________________
Please remember to come back and mark the post that you feel solved your question as the solution, it earns the member + points
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When I go into my mail and select the sent item tab it boots be out. Without letting me view my sent email

When I go into my mail and select the sent item tab it boots be out. Without letting me view my sent email

Another easy thing to try is to quit the mail app completely and restart the iPad.
Go to the home screen first by tapping the home button. Double tap the home button and the task bar will appear with all of your recent/open apps displayed at the bottom. Tap and hold down on any app icon until it begins to wiggle. Tap the minus sign in the upper left corner of the app that you want to close. Tap the home button or anywhere above the task bar. Restart the iPad.
Restart the iPad by holding down on the sleep button until the red slider appears and then slide to shut off. To power up hold the sleep button until the Apple logo appears and let go of the button.
Did you send an email with a large attachment by any chance?

Clear cmos jumper

P43 neo board (ms-7519)
Could someone confirm which is pin 1 on the clear cmos jumper. From the manual it looks like the pin nearest the heatsink. If this is correct the board was supplied with the link in the clear data position which seems strange to me.
Thanks,
Paul

Quote from: paulgul on 24-January-09, 00:39:00
P43 neo board (ms-7519)
Could someone confirm which is pin 1 on the clear cmos jumper. From the manual it looks like the pin nearest the heatsink. If this is correct the board was supplied with the link in the clear data position which seems strange to me.
Thanks,
Paul
Jbat1 is the clear cmos jumper, to clear cmos just shift the jumper to 2-3 and remember to switch back to 1-2 after you have clearing cmos, alternatively you can also remove the cmos batt
By default the jumper cap should be at pin 1-2(keep data) if no one has messed with it

Missing cmos jumper

Ive got a z68a-gd65 g3 motherboard, trying to install gtx 780 but need to update bios first, been told have to clear cmos after flash, but i cant find the cmos jumper and cant locate the cmos battery, can the battery be located under my graphic card PCIe slot

Did you lose your manual?

[Athlon64] Clear CMOS Jumper orientation ???

I have a new MSI RS480M/RS482M Motherboard and the clear CMOS pin orientation is a little confusing. With the video connectosr and other connectors at the rear you normally count left to right, top to bottom, but the jumper came on the pins on the right side which would be pins 2 & 3 and in that case means "Clear CMOS". Which means of course if I boot that way I'll damage the motherboard. Since the numbers are not printscreened I can't tell which pin is number 1 so I'm not sure how to jumper it for "Keep CMOS Data"? Any help appreciated.

Thanks for the reply Foxbat. Yep .... I understand that. I guess my question is: Which pin is number 1? If you are looking at the pins from the left side of the motherboard the pins would be vertical and top to bottem would be 1,2,3. However, if you are looking at the pins from a position that all the connectors are in the back (video, com, audio) then ... normally (going by all the old rules - left to right, top to bottem) #1 would be different, the pins would be horizontal and #1 would be on the left side and just the opposite. So it depends on how you position the motherboard when you look at it. Looking at pin #s that are printscreened (the ones that happen to be numbered) there is no consistent method of numbering .... and I cannot see any numbering on the CMOS pins. Thus my dilemma.

RS480M2-IL wont boot after change in BIOS, CMOS reset doesnt work!

Hi,
I bought the RS480M2 to use with a E6 stepping Venice 3000+ CPU using the onboard graphics card. I ran into problems right from the start, CPU temps were high (PC health in BIOS says 51-58 over a few minutes). Looking at the BIOS updates available i noticed that i had BIOS v.3.2, and i needed a higher version to support the E6 stepping, so i thought maybe the motherboard was using a wrong voltage for the CPU. In order to ensure that i could do a BIOS flash update i thought id better UNDERclock the CPU so it wouldnt overheat while flashing. I changed the LDT setting to 200Mhz(from 800 i think), subsequently on booting nothing happened(note that i never got around to do any BIOS flashing). My drives powers up, but i do not get a boot display. I checked the manual on how to reset the CMOS/BIOS and it says i should change the JCMOS1 jumper from 1-2 to 2-3. I was confused about whether or not to restart before or after putting it back to 1-2, so in the begining i just moved the jumper to 2-3 waited a few seconds and moved it back before powering up. This didnt help. A newer online version on the manual gave the order as 2-3 , power on, wait for CMOS error, power off, 1-2, power on. Unfortunately when i start up with the jumper on 2-3, i still get nothing. No boot, no error message. Ive tried clearing the CMOS multiple times(by following the sequence above), and nothing seems to work.
The only thing strange about my setup is that im using a fanless heatsink(the Sonic Tower from ThermalTake) running open case. Can this problem be related to a CPU fan speed protection?
Im totally at a loss as what to do about this, any help would be incredibly appreciated!

Quote from: dannol48 on 20-August-05, 09:28:59
If you carefully check the MSI processor compatibility chart for the RS480M2-IL, you'll see that there is no current Bios support for the Venice with Stepping E6.
I hope that radical CMOS clear procedure that I and others use will clear the post problem. Mine was primarily due to incompatible memory.
Danno
When i bought this board i didnt realize it might only support some A64's since it just listed A64's as supported. Also, when i look at the BIOS updates i can see that BIOS 3.4 lists "Support AMD K8 reversion E stepping CPU." (my Venice is E6) as being the change, so i thought it would be okay, after all when someone says they support E stepping, one would assume that it is all E stepping CPUs. When people buy CPU's its not always they know what stepping they will receive. I actually thought i was getting the E3 until i checked the model number and found it to be an E6.
My memory is Kingston Value Ram(2x256MB, im just building a HTPC, so i really didnt go after the expensive stuff). I got the newest venice because of its extremely low power use.
Btw, when reinserting the battery and restarting should i have JCMOS1 jumper at Clear data or keep data?

Bios flash windows boot freeze/problem Neo2 Plt.

Hi i'm new here so be kind and helpful please
Ok my problem is I got my Gskill LE kit yesterday and decided to upgrade the bios from 1.3 to something more TCCD friendly (apparently) i tried, 1.4, 1.41 and 1.51 and i have the same problem with all of them. The flash is successful but i cannot get into xp. Every time whether in safe mode or not, it hangs on the Windows XP loading screen, the boot screen is very faded and only just visable on my monitor. The same problem occured with my previous ram when trying to upgrade the bios.
I have tried everything i can think of except a clean windows install, all the bios options i can think of, it was flashed when not overclocked, tried changing the hard disks from sata 3&4 to 1&2, tried different flash methods (floppy and previously tried using the live update in windows to 1.4 from msi and the same thing happened), resetting the cmos after the flash.
Computer as in signature
Any help/ideas would be much appreciated.
i would rather not do a clean xp install as i have just got it running nicely, but i suspect this is the only option. if it doesn't work, i'm going to crack the shits and try get another one.
I have looked through this forum and have found no definitive answers so i decided to create a new post.

Try to reset your bios by setting the jumper to the 2-3 pin position for about 5 seconds then back to its normal 1-2 position, then try to boot. If that makes no difference then i belive your left with the only option of formatting it again. I've had this problem before with an older system but i never took the time to troubleshoot it. I just reformatted the drive with a fresh install of XP.
Hopefully other people here can help you out with your problem but i'd check the manual and find out how to use those jumpers to reset the bios. If you cant seem to get a hold of the jumper (located below the las pci slot, its a small green plastic) then i'd remove the motherboard battery and leave it out for about 5 minutes so the capacitors can discharge properly then put it back in and try to boot. That's all i can think of right now. Or even try to repair your installation with your xp disc.
Sorry thats all i can think of right now
- Ayman

Need help booting from DMG file without DVD drive

okay so i have 6 computers with me right now. i need to use one that has a dvd drive to install it on a comp that doesnt via firewire.
1- macbook with superdrive and os 10.5 (cant even open tiger install because its a new macbook
2-iBook g4 with DVD drive BUT the firewire port is broken
3-iBook g3 (one that needs tiger but only has a cd drive)
4-ibook g3 (without dvd drive)
5-powerbook g4 with dvd drive and firewire (for some reason will not read the tiger discs i just burned, even though ive already used them on the ibook g4
6-mac pro with firewire and dvd drive, but the dvd drive is broken.
so seems to me, every computer i have has a weakness for exactly what i need. what i need to know now is if i can boot the powerbook g4 from a DMG file of tiger install disc 1 and install is to the target ibook through firewire. if you have any suggestions on what i should try with the supplies mentioned above, please inform me. thanks!

what i need to know now is if i can boot the powerbook g4 from a DMG file of tiger install disc 1 and install is to the target ibook through firewire.
You can't unless the PowerBook is running Mac OS X Server, in which case the NetInstall feature can be used.
(38733)

PowerBook G4 boots to Open Firmware without keyboard access

Summary:
Let me provide a little backstory.
According to the [DARPA Visitor Guidelines|http://www.darpa.mil/body/visitor_guidelines.html] wireless network technology is prohibited from DARPA facilities. Laptops with a wireless card are required to be "disabled at the BIOS level".
Before an upcoming visit to DARPA I was told that I would need to make sure my laptop wireless card was disabled. I mentioned that Macs don't have BIOS but I'd look into doing it in Open Firmware. The response from DARPA was that no one has ever successfully brought an Apple laptop into the facility, and that I should procure a PC laptop for my visit. Ah, a challenge!
I booted into Open Firmware (⌘⌥OF), located the wireless card in the device tree, and removed two properties I figured the driver would be searching for: the vendor ID, and the product ID. I exited Open Firmware and continued to boot into Mac OS X v10.5.2.
Sure enough the System Profiler showed that no wireless card was installed. Success! Now I just need to make the device tree modifications persist between reboots.
It seemed the solution was to place the Open Firmware commands I issued to disable the card into nvramrc. So I set nvramrc to contain the same commands, and set use-nvramrc? to be true. I rebooted the machine but the card was still detected.
A bit [more research|http://docs.sun.com/app/docs/doc/805-4436/6j4719c8v?a=view] revealed that the device tree is not created by Open Firmware until after the nvramrc is executed. The solution is to build the device tree in the nvramrc and tell Open Firmware not to rebuild it. The documentation states that this is accomplished with the probe-all, install-console, and banner Forth commands. I added those commands to my nvramrc and rebooted. The contents of nvramrc:
probe-all install-console banner
dev wireless
" device-id" delete-property
" vendor-id" delete-property
The outcome... well technically the laptop has wireless disabled. Almost everything is disabled. The machine now boots directly into Open Firmware with a few ominous bits of output and no response from the keyboard.
no active package
Apple PowerBook5,6 6.4.9.1f1 BootROM built on 01/21/05 at 10:51:16
Copyright 1994-2005 Apple Computer, Inc.
All Rights Reserved.
Welcome to Open Firmware, the system time and date is 05/06/2008 10:00:00
Command security mode
To continue booting, type "mac-boot" and press return.
To shut down, type "shut-down" and press return.
ok
0 > _
The first sign that something has gone wrong is no active package. The second message just throws another wrench into the works: Command security mode. Yes, the Open Firmware password was enabled. In retrospect this was a bad thing to have set when mucking about in OF. I knew of the RAM change trick (see below) so this was not an issue at the time.
Question:
So the question is: What actions do I need to take to return the laptop to a useable state. That is, booting into Mac OS X.
*Attempted solutions:*
+1. Reset nvram+
The first and most obvious solution is to reset nvram using the snag key combination ⌘⌥PR. Unfortunately do to the firmware password being set, [all snag keys have been disabled|http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1352]. This means no target disk mode (⌘T), boot from CD (⌘C), boot from network (⌘N), etc... In any case an attempt at resetting nvram yields an additional message being appended to the Open Firmware screen:
Release keys to continue!_
+2. Reset nvram after changing amount RAM in system+
Luckily there is a work-around to firmware password protection. Changing the amount of RAM installed in the machine should allow the nvram zap snag to function. I removed one of the two 512MB DIMMS in the laptop and started up while holding down ⌘⌥PR. This results in the same message as above:
Release keys to continue!_
Not so lucky.
+3. Reset the Power Management Unit+
[Resetting the Power Management (PMU)|http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=14449] is accomplished by removing the battery and disconnecting the power cord, and then holding down the power button for about 5 seconds. This had no effect besides resetting the system clock to 01/01/1904 00:00:41.
Getting more desperate...
+4. Search logic board for CUDA+
I [opened the machine|http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Mac/PowerBook-G4-Al-15-Inch-1-5-1-67-BT-2-0 -LR/64] to search for a hidden [CUDA button|http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=86760]. As expected, a CUDA button does not exist on this model and the PMU reset is accomplished as noted in attempted solution 3.
+5. Remove internal battery+
Well the laptop is open now, so I tried removing the internal memory backup battery and revisited each of the above solutions. No success.
+6. Remove hard drive+
Again, since the laptop was open, why not remove the hard drive and see what happens. The machine wasn't even making it to the boot-loader hand-off so I didn't expect this to produce any results. No results produced.
Thinking crazy thoughts...
+7. Attempt a firmware update+
Firmware updates have a side effect of resetting the nvram. Also firmware updates are initiated very early in the startup process by holding down the power button until a tone is heard and the power light flashes. My thought was that I would grab a previous firmware update for this laptop and force it to be reapplied. Unfortunately there have been no updates to this model's firmware.
+8. Write my own firmware update script+
While investigating solution #7 I realized that the file BootROMFirmware installed by the firmware updaters for G5s and G4s machines are just Forth programs with a binary payload attached to the end. I learned [Forth|http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forth(programminglanguage)]. The BootROMFirmware files are really cool, since they do everything from drawing the progress bar during the update, uncompressing and check-summing the binary payload, and generally making sure you don't brick your machine. In any case it seem entirely doable to write my own program in Forth and undo the evil I did before. I really only need to flip one bit. I needed the use-nvramrc? variable set to false. So I created this very simple Forth program:
\ debrickifier
setenv use-nvramrc? false
reset-all
The original firmware file had additional attributes set, a creator and file type of fw99. So I set those two attributes on my file as well. I ran strings on the firmware installer program and guessed that it was copying the file to /System/Library/CoreServices. So this is where I placed my Forth file. Reinstalled the drive and rebooted the laptop while holding down the power key to initiate a firmware install. No dice.
Its hard to tell why this is failing. The file may in the wrong place, have the wrong permissions. From what I've reviewed in the original files, the setenv and reset-all words should be available. Maybe the Firmware Update utilities are setting some other magic in nvram before the reboot.
I think I've covered all the different major solutions that I've attempted. Their might be a few more that I've forgotten to mention (like using an external USB keyboard). I still think that getting some Forth to execute via the firmware update mechanism could use some more exploration. My current worst case is that I'll replace the logic board, although I'd hate to do that when I know there are only a few bad bits flipped in a CMOS somewhere.
I'm hoping to snag the attention of the resident hardware/firmware guru that can shed some light upon the firmware update process, but any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Mark

For your next DARPA visit, another option might be to buy the cheapest possible third-party wireless card — it doesn't even need to work. Insert it into your Powerbook's CardBus slot before visiting DARPA, and turn Airport off in System Prefs. On arrival at DARPA, remove the card from the Powerbook and hand it to the security guard. Retrieve it from the guard as you leave, and turn Airport back on again when you get home or back to your office. Unable to comply with the letter of the dunderheaded regulation because you have no BIOS, you will be complying with the spirit of it instead, and no one will be the wiser.

Satellite A350-12D PSAL6E: how to boot Win 8.1 without pushing power button

Hi,
is there a way to boot the OS(WIN8.1) [system status: shut down]
without pulling the screen first up and pushing the power button?
FYI: I 'm using a external HDMI connected monitor/screen!
I know of the feature wake on keyboard via BIOS, but using that requires a laptop in hibernation/standby mode.
It kinda bugs me everytime to pull the display up and pushing
Wake on Lan is not an alteranative as its connected via W-LAN
Any ideas or hint appreciated!
Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
dirtyheizer

Unfortunately, there is no other method to power up the notebook, if the unit has been powered off.
You have to push the power button to power ON the notebook.

I have a Power MAC G5 dual 2ghz that has a peculiar problem. The monitor will not report until the machine is stopped and started 5 or 6 times. Once booted it will restart without problem if done so from the apple menu. Swapped out all hardware

My Power MAC G5 has a peculiar problem. The monitor fails to report until the machine is started and shut down 5 or 6 times. Once it has booted it can be restarted without incident from the Apple menu. I have swapped out all of the hardware. Monitor, Memmory,Video Card and reset the PRAM. After resetting the PRAM it booted on the first attempt and I thought it was solved. But the next day it was back to starting and stopping until the Monitor came on. Does anyone have a suggestion? Thanks

It could be a bad PRAM battery corrupting your PRAM. Typically when I have monitor issues on startup it is a bad PRAM battery.
Texas Mac Man's PRAM, battery, PMU tutorial - https://sites.google.com/site/macpram/mac-pram-nvram-cuda-pmu-battery-tutorial
Apple's PRAM reset directions - http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=2238
If you have a digital multimeter you can check the condition of your present battery. It should read at least 3.2V if it is the 3.6V half-AA battery type. A new battery provides 3.67 Volts DC. A bad battery provides under 3.2 Volts DC. Ideally this should be measured while the battery is under load; added recommendation from Hans777:
>I have recently found out that an exhausted battery will still indicate >3.6 V with a high internal resistance VM.
>
>Checking incircuit: powercord disconnected press PMU reset button for >about 5 sec before measuring.
>
>Checking outside: load the battery with a 1500 Ohm resistor when measuring.
Alternatively, test the battery while it is still in the computer.
If the battery is more than 5 years old, especially if you totally disconnect the computer from the power regularly, or have left it unplugged for several months at one time, it is likely the battery is dead.
Sometimes you have to do a more intensive reset of hardware management:
[Resetting Cuda/PMU on Power Mac G5, Power Mac G4, Power Macintosh G3|http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1939]
[How to reset the SMU on a Power Mac G5 (Late 2004) or Power Mac G5 (Late 2005)|http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1436]
[iMac G5: How to Reset the SMU|http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1767]

Booting up k8 neo2 without CMOS jumper

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