Boris Fx Optical Stabilizer

I just downloaded this app spent $99 dollars and I can't use it. I try to open it using Final Cut Express as the application I guess it needs to open it. It says I do not have permission to change to Final Cut Express. Really frustrated-do not get it at all. Out of ideas and money.
Message was edited by: dubdroid 1

Yes but I just get a recording on the phone. I did write them an e-mail so I guess Monday I will find out how to resolve this. Thanks for your help. Since I posted this I found out I might need a Disk
Image Mounter. Thanks again.

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Stabilization in FCE?

I asked this question as part of another post but I think it got lost in another thread. One thing I really like about iM09 is the new stabilization effect. I had that as part of iM06 with the Slick plugin. They don't seem to have it for FCE.
I have found two Stabilization plugins for FCE, Boris fx Optical Stabilizer and fxStabilizer. Does anyone have experience with either? Any others to recommend? Hopefully FCE5 will have it when ever it comes out. Thanks in advance for any info. This forum is very helpful.

I have just downloaded iStabilize to see how it compares with the stabilisation in FCP 6 and Motion.
Unfortunately, I can't get it to open, other than the license request page. All the relevant items in the menu are also greyed out.
I have downloaded again in case there was corruption in the first.

Stabilizing Options: Motion4 vs. Steady vs. Boris vs. L&L vs. ?

With the stipulation that NO stabilizing software is a substitute for properly shot footage...
Am about to test out demos for some of the major players in this field, which appear to be:
- Magic Bullet Steady from Red Giant
- Boris Optical Stabilization
- Lock & Load X from CoreMelt
- and of course Motion4, which I've already played with a little bit.
(Am deliberately not including FCP's built-in SmoothCam option because of some built-in limitations, partly discussed in this related thread:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2246688&tstart=0)
But would be interested to hear from anyone in this forum who's tried out one or more of the above, and has any insights as to their relative strengths and weaknesses (especially as regards speed, ease of use, versatility, and of course, ultimate image quality).
Thanks,
John B.
Toronto

tallguy wrote:
... how bad is it maybe reshoot?
I'm just needing to smooth out occasional bumps in some doc footage. It's all hand-held, and I'm definitely NOT trying to disguise that fact. But every so often there's a shot -- or even just one moment within a particular shot -- where the camera wobble, while still not extreme, is just enough to seem inconsistent with the rest of the footage, and so becomes momentarily distracting.
It's those moments which I'm looking not to eliminate, but just to dial back a bit.

Any video stabilizer plugin out there that works for PPCS5 yet?

Hello,
Mercalli and newbluefx don't have any plugins for CS5 yet.
Any other good video stabilizer plugins available yet for CS5?
Yes, I know it just came out but I am impatient.
Simon

LOL!
I like working in PP for things like video stabilizing without having to import an AE composition. But yes AE is an option.
I tried the BCC 7 optical stabilizer. Looks nice but was not too impressed with the performance. Maybe just need to practice it a bit more with it.
Hey Harm, could you get me the Epic from RED for me and then I won't be so impatient anymore.
Thanks.

The new iPhone 6 and iPhone 6 Plus DO have differences

I am considering entering the smart phone market, mainly for a portable camera to take on trips. I have narrowed it down to the leading Samsung Galaxy S5 and one of the new iPhones - 6 or 6 Plus. I spoke with an adviser on Live Chat and asked if there were any differences besides the sizes. I was told "no." However, when I visited ConsumerReports.org, their initial review mentioned two differences: 1) 326 ppi for the 6; 401 ppi for the 6 Plus, and 2) digital stabilization on the 6; optical stabilization on the 6 Plus. Since I am considering a smart phone mainly for the camera and videos, this might prove to be important. I am waiting to see the upcoming ratings and review from ConsumerReports.org.
On this note, I would like to make a suggestion to anyone who is about to purchase a new electronics device, be it camera or computer. Do not go by just what an adviser for the company tells you, but rather go to the retail store, see and handle the device yourself, and have it demonstrated and try it out, taking a few photos if it is a camera, and working with the keyboard and monitor if it is a computer. (I know Apple has a wonderful retail department, and they are very patient and happy to answer all your questions and make sure you know how to use their products.) I learned this lesson the hard way. My PC Tower blanked out, and I was in a hurry to get a new computer, rather than having to lift the 50+ pound tower and take it to my independent dealer for repair (if possible). I looked for the fastest way to get a computer, so I called Apple, and I purchased the computer over the phone and had it sent to my job. The Apple Adviser was very patient and friendly and asked me questions about how I would use the computer. Originally, I was asking for a MacBook Pro (for being able to carry it to a repair shop). He suggested that I get an iMac 26(?), but when I told him I sit at a student desk, very close the the screen, he suggested the 21.5, which I purchased. It arrived at my job in a nice box with a handle, and I was able to get it home and set it up, with help over the phone with an Apple technician, so that it was running with my router and my wireless printer. The problem? The monitor I am using as I write this at work - an old square framed flat screen - is easier on the eyes than the iMac 21.5's monitor - something I would have found out had I read the Consumer Reports ratings beforehand.
On yet another note concerning the new iWatch: If you live in New York City, don't even think about wearing it on the subway. You may as well wear a sign, "Please Mug Me."

"I found out another difference: The battery is larger in the 6 Plus, thereby allowing more time for talking and standby. I also discovered that they do not accommodate SIM cards. Now, I have to ask if they can be used overseas."
"Do not go by just what an adviser for the company tells you, but rather go to the retail store, see and handle the device yourself, and have it demonstrated and try it out, taking a few photos if it is a camera, and working with the keyboard and monitor if it is a computer."
"On yet another note concerning the new iWatch: If you live in New York City, don't even think about wearing it on the subway. You may as well wear a sign, "Please Mug Me."
I really don't want to sound rude but wow...just wow...

Best camera for shooting auditions

I'm looking for a camera (tapeless) that will shoot a native QuickTime format to avoid transcoding. In other words I want to stay away from AVCHD because of how long it takes to transcode into iMovie 09.
Every camera I see is AVCHD. Since I'm only shooting auditions I don't need the quality to be HD. It's all about the fastest turn around time.
Does anyone know of a camera (besides the HPX-170 $$$$) that will shoot mini-dv to a flash memory card? This would be ideal.
Am looking for something that is around $1000.
Any suggestions?

Hey,
Keep in mind that the XL-1s is somewhat clumsy and awkward to handle. If you are used to ENG style... the Canon has no comfortable way to rest it on your shoulder. If you like to hold it out front, using the top handle, while framing your shot with the flip-out LCD... the XL-1s has no flip out LCD. Just a big eye cup style viewfinder.
The up side is the interchangeable lenses available for the XL-1. But if you are test driving one this weekend, be sure to ask how many lenses that price includes. Also, is there a wide angle adaptor included as well.
For my money... a used Canon GL-1 or a GL-2 if available, (the GL-2 is the newer version, with a better audio section). Being Canon devices, they already have superior optics. Both camcorders feature optical stabilization and [real glass!] 20:1 built-on lenses, and good sized flip-out LCDs. Since 2000, our church has been using 3 GL-1's for recording the services (via long S-Video runs to the switcher) as well as on remotes for the special dramatizations which are shown on the big screens during the actual services. Never a down day. The GL-1 is able to record in 30p as well as 16:9 anamorphic, and download via Firewire into any NLE. I've owned mine since 2000 as well. Never a glitch in the beginning with iMovie, later with FC Express, or now with FCP 5.1.4!
So... get yourself a used GL-1 and one of those Beechtek DXA-2S mic/line adaptors, so you can use pro mics in the field, and for under $1,500 you have a formidable, light-weight shooting rig.
JC
G5 Quad 2.5 PPC Mac OS X (10.4.10) 3 monitors powered by GeForce 7800GT and 6600. JVC GY-HD100 camera; FCS 5.1

Best Camera for $1500 or less

What is the best mini-dv 3ccd camera for $1500 or less? I wish I could spend more but that is my limit at this time and I need a camera bad. Any suggestions?

Hey,
Keep in mind that the XL-1s is somewhat clumsy and awkward to handle. If you are used to ENG style... the Canon has no comfortable way to rest it on your shoulder. If you like to hold it out front, using the top handle, while framing your shot with the flip-out LCD... the XL-1s has no flip out LCD. Just a big eye cup style viewfinder.
The up side is the interchangeable lenses available for the XL-1. But if you are test driving one this weekend, be sure to ask how many lenses that price includes. Also, is there a wide angle adaptor included as well.
For my money... a used Canon GL-1 or a GL-2 if available, (the GL-2 is the newer version, with a better audio section). Being Canon devices, they already have superior optics. Both camcorders feature optical stabilization and [real glass!] 20:1 built-on lenses, and good sized flip-out LCDs. Since 2000, our church has been using 3 GL-1's for recording the services (via long S-Video runs to the switcher) as well as on remotes for the special dramatizations which are shown on the big screens during the actual services. Never a down day. The GL-1 is able to record in 30p as well as 16:9 anamorphic, and download via Firewire into any NLE. I've owned mine since 2000 as well. Never a glitch in the beginning with iMovie, later with FC Express, or now with FCP 5.1.4!
So... get yourself a used GL-1 and one of those Beechtek DXA-2S mic/line adaptors, so you can use pro mics in the field, and for under $1,500 you have a formidable, light-weight shooting rig.
JC
G5 Quad 2.5 PPC Mac OS X (10.4.10) 3 monitors powered by GeForce 7800GT and 6600. JVC GY-HD100 camera; FCS 5.1

FCE compatibility with Panasonic PV-GS180 ?

Just wondering if anyone knows if the Panasonic PV-GS180 camcorder with work with FCE 3 on PPC eMacs, and/or FCE 3.5 on Intel iMacs with integrated video memory?
Thank you!

I should work fine. It's a DV camera and has a FireWire out that you can connect to your Mac. Just don't try using the USB out with FCE - that won't work.
In regard to the camera, whether your Mac is PPC or Intel doesn't matter, nor does the version of FCE, nor does the Intel GMA video in the Macbooks and Intel Minis. If you have an Intel based Mac, however, you do you need to go with FCE v3.5 or higher.
It's a nice little package at a reasonable price, but if you haven't purchased the camera yet, see if you can find a suitable model with CCDs larger than the 1/6" CCDs that this one has and also optical stabilization. You will notice the difference.

Video Cameras What should I buy Panasonic or Sony?

I am looking to upgrade to a new camcorder from a Panasonic TM700 to either a Panasonic HC-X900M or a Sony HDRPJ760VE.
The reason for the upgrade is because my TM700 will no longer switch off, making it necessary for me to detach the battery after each time I use the camera.
I am extremely happy with the video quality of the cam. but have had other problems with this camera.
If you own one of the above can you please give me your feedback?
I really like the Optical stabilizer in the Sony, but what is the video quality like?
I do hope this is the correct forum for this discussion.

It does not help you solve your dilemma, but let me tell you some of my experiences with service from various companies.
I have used many Sony cameras over the years, a TRV-50, a VX-2000, a PD-150 and a Z1. Even though they were generally reliable, there were some minor problems with every camera, like the accessory shoe getting loose, the mic holder getting loose, the tape transport needed cleaning, simple stuff like that, but Sony was always very expensive and took their time. At least 6 weeks turn-around time. So I looked elsewhere and found an ex-Sony employee, who was a worldwide acclaimed Sony Certified Expert Service Professional and had the papers to support it (he got this title at Sony HQ in Tokio), who started his own service repair shop. His turn around time was usually less than a day, you made an appointment, went to his shop, got a very warm welcome and a cup of coffee, while he investigated the problem, explaining every step as he went along and watching him do his work. After everything was repaired, the bill was always a nice surprise and the duration of the repair was always very short. If a new part was required, he had direct access to the European supply center in Belgium, so instead of ordering through Sony Netherlands, he got the parts much faster. I went to him even if I had no problems periodically for a yearly check-up of my equipment, like you do with your car.
He not only serviced Sony, but also Canon, Panasonic, JVC, Ikegami, etc. and had among his clients several broadcast companies.
I'm pretty sure there must be people like this guy in Australia as well but you may have to rely on other Aussies to give you a hint here.
I have a Canon XF300 now, bought in New Zealand (Global Media Pro) and shipped from Hong Kong that developed problems with the EVF, a rather common problem with the XF range. I contacted Canon Europe, the camera was picked up by courier, repaired and returned within 10 days, all under warranty. So, obviously Canon is more lenient than Panasonic in their service, but maybe that also has to do with the positioning of the XF range of cameras.
I hope you get some hints on who might be able to help you out locally.

FCE and 3D Stereoscopy

In 3D stereoscopy the post production is at least just as imprtant as the production itself. I've been using FCE with Tim Dashwood's Stereoscopic 3D Toolbox to create the video about the rig. I thought some maybe interested. 3D stereoscopy is coming with big push early next year. the web site for that is: http://www.timdashwood.com/stereo3dtoolbox/Stereo3DToolboxHome.html .
In 3D electronic or optical stabilization has to be turned off, because the differential changes between the two views provide the wrong cues and are just counter productive. I've constructed an amateur 3D rig, which works very well and is based on the Merlin. Here is a YouTube link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THU5XeRIeOA. Better quality (but anaglyphic - requiring glasses) are at this site: http://www.vimeo.com/7281780 . The system is quite light and portable. The stereoscopic 3D is mostly in the "Pro" domain, and I am hoping that some amateurs will become interested as well, so that we can get more industry support.
Message was edited by: ComPH1

I used the Stereo3D Toolbox plugin referenced in the original post. There are several tutorials on it's use. The rest is pretty much standard FCE use. Unfortunately, due to the nature of combining two streams, there is a LOT of rendering. I combine/process individual clip pairs into side-by-side paired sequences, then re-import them and treat them as clips for actual editing (clipping, re-ordering, transitions, audio, etc.), and if necessary, re-apply the plugin and change the output mode (FCP has nesting on the menu, which is explained in the tutorials, but I could never figure it out in FCE). Look over the tutorials or search for them on YouTube under Stereo3D Toolbox. Then, if you still have questions, feel free to message me either here or on YouTube. Here is the YT link, which you can see in HD: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZdlYm3zcTY&feature=player_embedded . It is little different in FCE, but it works with little improvisation.
Message was edited by: ComPH1
Message was edited by: ComPH1

Camcorder purchase recommendations?

Noob to iMovie...(sorry)
I'm trying to pick out a hard drive-based camcorder for amateur home movie use (new baby on the way). I figure hard-drive is easier to use with the iMac rather than converting from DVDs, etc.
I've noticed that some articles state that you have to connect your hard drive cam corder to the mac using firewire otherwise iMovie won't recognize it. Is that right? And I've heard problems with getting Sony cameras recognized. True?
Any advice is appreciated. Price range is $500-$1000.

Just throwing in my two cents based on past experience. I have a HP point and shoot digital camera that also takes video clips. While it's a nice function to have, you lose the sound when you import the video into iMovie for the reasons Sue mentions.
I just upgraded both my digital camera and digital camcorder, and did quite a bit of research before purchasing. The camcorders that record on DVD do not import into iMovie (at least based on the research I did). I only found one model of digital camcorder that burned directly to hard disc, so was reluctant to even try that format.
As for the digital camcorder, I own a Cannon, but wanted to upgrade to a better camera, so purchased the Panasonic GS 500. It is fabulous. It has optical stabilization and shoots well in low light. The color is excellent and it is by far the best camcorder I've owned to date.
I also purchased a Nikon D80 SLR digital camera and can't tell you how fabulous it is - I feel like I've died and gone to heaven. It shoots 3 frames per second which is fabulous for action shots.
If finances constrain you to one choice, which is probably the case with a new baby on the way, I'd recommend putting your dollars into an excellent digital camera that will last. Having three kiddos, I can tell you the video is great, but it's the pictures we look at more often. You can always borrow a camcorder from a good friend to make sure you have video of all stages, but you need that camera at hand immediately when s/he smiles for the first time . . .
Congratulations and good luck!
Raylene

Which would you buy? Panasonic vs Canon

I am looking at 2 new camcorders
1. Canon FS 200 - flash drive $329
37x optical
or
2. Panasonic SDR H80K - hard Drive $399
70x optical
THANKS!
I am gadget challenged - This would be to record childrens' activities

With that limited amount of usage information, I would suggest the Canon in most cases. The panasonic would be great if your kids are into sports (larger zoom). Only thing about that large of a zoom capability is that you will need a tripod in order to effectively take advantage of the maximum zoom. If it is going to be used in a handheld manner, the video will get very jumpy and jittery without a tripod. We don't want to make our viewers seasick do we? lol
If you are planning on using the zoom feature on a regular basis, check and see if either camera has optical image stabilization. That feature will help keep the image steady and avoid jitter. Make sure it's optical stabilization though since the digital stabilization is nopt nearly as good at steadying images. Keep in mind that some brands don't tell you outright whether it is optical or digital on their overviews (like Sony with Steady Shot (digital) vs. Super Steady Shot (optical)).
When all else fails, go in to a Best Buy store and speak with someone in a Blue Shirt. If they are doing their job correctly, they should ask you a good amount of questions about how you are going to use it. Once they know what you want to do with the camera they should be able to make a good recommendation for you and be able to explain why they are recommending that particular item.
Good luck.

20D focus / shut down

My 20D has recently developed a randomly occurring problem. It seems to be having a problem focusing. When I press the shutter button to focus, the focus moves in and out then stops out of focus and shuts down the camera. The LCD screen is dark and the shutter will not fire. The LCD on top of the camera is still on but not the one on the back. I can turn the camera off and back on and it will almost always start working again. Any idea what's wrong and what I can do about it. I use the camera for work and really can't afford to buy a new one or pay a high price repair bill... plus I can't be without the camera for weeks. My lens is a Sigma DC 18-200mm with optical stabilizer. I also use a Canon 580EX flash but the issue happens with a flash and without.
Thank you,
Jake

How oldare the batteriies? Could be a bad cell failing under load. If they are relatively new are they Canon brand or aftermarket? Many aftermarket brands aren't very good but there are also many that are & price paid usually helps determine which you got. That said do a hard reset by removing the battery PLUS the time / date battery for at least a helf hour to see whether it's an internal software issue.
If none of that helps used 20D's are selling in the $200-250 range & worth every penny if they weren't abused..
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

IPhone 6 Plus optical image stabilizer

So I have a problem with the optical image stabilizer. The stabilizer don't work enymore. So it is not
possible to make pictures. When I use the camera it makes also a noise.

The phone is under warranty so take it in to an Apple store or authorized repair centre and have it examined.

AE project crashes on startup - due to Warp Stabilizer and Highlight/Shadow

I've got a head scratcher here...
Firstly, I have been working on this project file for several days with no problems. Everything was running smoothly... working, tweaking, rendering... all successful.
A couple days after doing a final render, I went to re-open the project and got these two errors, followed by AE crashing:
To the best of my knowledge, I changed nothing on my system.
I've tried removing my 3rd parth plugins (Video Copilot Optical Flares, Element, etc...) but to no avail. The program still crashes when opening this file.
I've since installed the updates to AE CS 6, but still no luck.
Removing Warp Stabilizer and Shadow/Highlight allow me to open this project file (obviously telling me that its missing both).
I've tested out both plug-ins in a different file, and I'm able to open those no problem.
I'm running this on a Mac Book Pro running OSX 10.6.8
Model Name:
MacBook Pro
Model Identifier:
MacBookPro8,2
Processor Name:
Intel Core i7
Processor Speed:
2.2 GHz
Number of Processors:
1
Total Number of Cores:
4
L2 Cache (per Core):
256 KB
L3 Cache:
6 MB
Memory:
8 GB
AMD Radeon HD 6750M:
Chipset Model:
AMD Radeon HD 6750M
Type:
GPU
Bus:
PCIe
PCIe Lane Width:
x8
VRAM (Total):
1024 MB
Vendor:
ATI (0x1002)
Device ID:
0x6741
Revision ID:
0x0000
ROM Revision:
113-C0170L-573
gMux Version:
1.9.23
EFI Driver Version:
01.00.573
Any thoughts???

We've isolated the bug that is causing this behavior. It seems to only affect instances of the Shadow/Highlight effect on an adjustment layer over layer(s) with the Warp Stabilizer.
There are a couple of workarounds:
- One is to remove the Shadow/Highlight plug-in from the plug-ins folder and then open the project (and then fix the project to not have this effect on an adjustment layer over a Warp Stabilizer instance).
- Another is to precompose the layer(s) with the Warp Stabilizer effect.
We're working on a fix for this.

Boris Fx Optical Stabilizer

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