Bout connections...

Im using Nokia 6110 Navigator..The problem is,I cant get trough to internet by using the phone itself....but when I connect to my computer,it can access to the internet...

Have you tried to apply some GPRS and MMS settings on it?

Similar Messages

  • Whats on with firmware updates?

    hi again,ive been planing to update my firmware to its new version becoz maybe updating firmware can resolve my problem bout connecting to secured wifi.but i was confused and little bit scared becoz of some comments and opinions of some user here and outside this site.theres a good comments but also have bad.so i want to know if updating a firmware is good and really need for a phone?does it fixed some problem,errors,bugs?what if not?what if the effect is not good and just causing a problem,can i set that again to its original settings and firmware like when i buy?
    NOKIA E52-1
    034.001
    RM-469

    You cannot roll back your fw after updateing. There are also a tiny tiny bit of risk of getting in trouble by updating, but prepairing your computer for it, it often goes verry well.
    I've always updated my devices n95 8 gb, e71, 5800, n97 and never had any issues with the update process nor having the feeling of that the older fw was better.
    But if youre device is working pretty well for you, and you've searched around a checked that you don't need any of the new features that a fw may contain, - you might as well be fine without updating.
    Before updating I always make sure I've backed up my phone content and made sure I've no computer problems and that my computer is running the latest os updates etc. - I usually turn off AV and firewall too.
    Then I update and after that I perform a soft reset and a format of mass memory before reinstalling my back up. - By doing these steps when updating, I've always got a good experience and got a faster and more responsive device.
    If youre FW update should make youre device worse, you can always take it to a Nokia care point and let them straght it out. - After you've of course reinstalled the update.
    All in all, I would update - and if you do the right things it's safe to update.
    New fw can bring new bugs to the device, but it usually fixes more that it ruins!
    Check if you can update by FOTA (firmware over the air) on your device. - I would use that method over NSU/ovisuite on your pc any time.

  • Archlinux and nokia e50

    I have a phone with symbian (e50) and I need backup data from it to pc and install  new programs. Is here anybody who knows how to connect e50 with archlinux?

    Hi there! I dont know what u exactly asking, but if u talking bout connection with the OS u could use bluetooth (i belive that e50 does have it), or maybe a USB cable... just some thoughts. maybe u need some another connection... tell more if u'r interested.
    Last edited by sevenfourk (2008-02-27 19:09:47)

  • Bouts of packet loss and complete loss of connection

    Ok forum, I give up! I need your help.
    I have an E1200 and am time out and packet loss issues. The internet connection is fine for 30 seconds to five minuets and then everything times out for 15-20 seconds. Although it’s only a minor incontinence to web browsing, it makes playing games and watching videos a nightmare. “Lost connection to server error.” and the like…
    This is what I have done to remedy the problem.
    I upgraded to a new router, the e1200 I am currently using, from my Tenda 10/100 N. The problems where the same that I am experience currently and the reason I bought it in the firs place.
    When I directly connect to the cable modem, I have no issues and everything is fine.
    I have run a trace route and the second hop, (the router to the modem) is the choke point.
    I have cloned the MAC address
    I have updated the firmware and hard reset
    I have throttled my MTU to automatic, 1500, and 1472. None making any difference.
    I have disabled NAT and all that does is kill my internet connection
    I have disabled all firewalls router and windows, no change.
    I replaced the physical wire from the router to the modem.
    I have disconnected all devices except one computer, and no difference.
    I ran a DNS trace and I have… non routable local internet address 192.168.1.1
    DNS-cac-lb-01.rr.com and DNS-cac-lb-02.rr.com
    I am using windows 7 and my ISP is time Warner so-cal. Help me obiwan, you’re my only hope.

    Sorry friend. I have not had the gaul to load the 1.0 firmware. I am 99% sure I have the 2.0 hardware. I did however unplug my modem for an hour and then try and reconnect. The result was a lossless environment for fifteen to twenty minuets (a long time for me.). But, I am right back still having the same problem. A friend gave me a new netgear router, I am going to try that and I am going to go to Timewarner and have them replace my modem just to make sure there is nothing wrong with the surfboard. I will report back with my findings.

  • Wireless connection drops after bout 5 min - HP all in one C6180

    Hi!
    I'm having problem with my all in one product - HP all in one C6180. The wireless network connection drops, and the printer becomes unreachable from both web-interface and printjobs/scanningjobs etc...
    This problem has existed since I bought this machine..
    I've tried several different setups when it comes to WEP/WPA/WPA2 etc..and also different channels on the wireless, but still same problem exist. The printer works perfect for about 5 min, but then drops the connection it seems like. I'm having about 5-6 devices connected to my wireless router (Draytek VGI 2910), and all seems to work perfect together except the C6180.
    At this moment I'm running WPA2 for security on my network. I've tested the software both on Win/ Mac, and currently running the Mac-version.
    Is there any firmware-update out that could solve my problem, or how else should I manage it to work properly?
    Thanks for any help!
    /V

    There does not appear to be any firmware update on this page.  It could be a router issue.
    Let's set a static IP address for the printer:
    - Print a Network Config Page from the front of the printer. Note the printer's IP address.
    - Type that IP address into a browser to reveal the printer's internal settings.
    - Choose the Networking tab, then Wireless along the left side, then the IPv4 tab.
    - On this screen you want to set a Manual IP. You need to set an IP address outside the range that the router automatically sets (called the DHCP range). If you do not know the range, set a high IP address, like .250
    - Use 255.255.255.0 for the subnet (unless you know it is different, if so, use that)
    - Enter your router's IP (ends with .1) for the gateway and first DNS. Leave the second one blank.
    - Click 'Apply'.
    Now, shut down the router and printer, start the router, wait, then start the printer.
    After this you may need to redo 'Add a Printer' using the new IP address.
    Say thanks by clicking "Kudos" "thumbs up" in the post that helped you.
    I am employed by HP

  • MY IPOD TOUCH GLITCHES OUT. IT DOESNT TURN ON. :( IT GOES TO THE MAIN APPLE SIGN FOR BOUT 10 SECONDS THEN A BLANK SCREEN FOR ABOUT 2 SECONDS. THEN REPEATS THIS CYCLE OVER AND OVER UNTIL IT DIES. WHAT DO I DO? (AND IT DOES NOT CONNECT TO ITUNES)

    can anyone help me please?

    All we can say here is to restore it in iTunes. You can Google for more information on that topic. The jailbreak may have corrupted the device to the point where it is unable to restore.
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1414
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1808

  • How can I connect my Mac laptop to display on my imac

    I just bout an imac with a 27" display. I would like to use the display for my macbook air - how do I connect the two just to project the AIR on my imac.

    If your MacBook Air has got a Thunderbolt port, just connect them using a Thunderbolt cable and put your iMac in target mode pressing Command and F2 buttons

  • How to connect my dv camera to my mac and make movies?

    i just got my new macbook and dont no how to connect my dv camera to it...i got a software disc for my dv cam but it doesnt run automatically and i dont no how to install it....it is usb connection...do i need fire wire?...help me plz help...getting frustrated ...is the any sites that help with macs ..cuz im use to pc...dont no anything bout macs...thanks so much!!!

    Hello,
    It would be helpful to know what camera you are trying to connect and what exactly you are trying to do with it.
    In regards to firewire vs usb i only really have experience with firewire so i can not help you there unfortunatetly.
    If you are just trying to get the video footage off the camera you could try and open up iMovie from within you applications folder. Attached the camera, my iMac is currently in for repairs so i can quite tell you the whole thing but look for options of attached cameras.
    The reason why the cd doesnt autorun is that it is probably window software, does the disk specifically state Mac OS X?. If you double click on the cd it should open up in a window. Have a look around for any Mac folders or any obvious applications that you can run.

  • Apple cinema 22" connected to a 1st gen mini shuts on and off

    I have a 22" apple cinema with a clear enclosure (older models) that is connected to a 1st generation mac mini through an Apple DVI to ADC Display Adapter. Everything has been working like a charm, despite the flickering problem which was solved, for a bout 2 years. But this summer, the display kept going off and on by utself on its own for a few hours and then comes back on. It really feels as if the power just went off. A week ago, the display went off for what its seems forever.
    I'm not sure what should I check, the mini, the adapter or the screen! Any ideas?
    Thanks a lot.

    My 23 inch HD cinema display is doing the same thing. It is over 4 years old and it all started with problems with the USB connections in the back about a month ago. They work most of the time, but once in a while they will just stop working for my keyboard or mouse. Now, my display is just losing power randomly. It will turn off and then back on, then again and again for a minute or two, then it will come back on without any more problems. Fortunately, the display itself is still phenomenal; colors are good, brightness is good. It seems to be just the USB's and the turning off and on randomly. Does anyone here know what it takes to correct this problem.
    By the way:
    Machine Name: Power Mac G5
    Machine Model: PowerMac7,2
    CPU Type: PowerPC 970 (2.2)
    Number Of CPUs: 2
    CPU Speed: 2 GHz
    w/OS X 10.4.10
    and
    ATI Radeon 9600 Pro:
    Chipset Model: ATY,RV350
    Type: Display
    Bus: AGP
    Slot: SLOT-1
    VRAM (Total): 64 MB
    Vendor: ATI (0x1002)
    Device ID: 0x4150
    Revision ID: 0x0000
    ROM Revision: 113-A13601-126
    Displays: Apple Cinema HD Display:
    Display Type: LCD
    Resolution: 1920 x 1200
    Depth: 32-bit Color
    Thanks in advance for any help.
    Justin

  • Having problems connecting macbook pro to my tv

    i am trying to connect my macbook pro (only bought a few months ago to my LG 42 " flat screen tv. i know that i am quite useless with all things computer but i have managed to get my husbands older macbook to work no problem (but his headphone socket is broken so no sound apart from the macbook itself- a little quiet). however i have bout a mini display port to HDMI cable i have also tried mini dispaly port to DVI adapter and a VGA adapter. the tv recognizers the macbook pro as the purple screen saver (the one that looks like a galaxy and comes up when you are downloading new software......sorry i told you i don't know much about this) shows up on the tv but the dvd, or page that i have open on my mac doesn't come up. please can anyone help as i really want to watch some tv programs from the internet on my tv asap.

    It sounds like you're making progress. The problem, I think, is that you need to set your displays to "mirror" each other. For instructions, in Finder, choose Help and search for "Setting up multiple displays to show the same image"

  • Even after being "fixed", my connection is still u...

    Been with BT since late December, using infinity 2 with HH5. Live in a block of flats.
    When we first got the package we were being disconnected every few hours, often several times per hour. Finally got some help from a mod on here who ran some tests and found a possible error on the copper line. BT sent out an engineer who fiddled with the cables in the ground outside, and things seemed more stable. Another engineer came out to reset the profile, and he also discovered line problems (something inside the flat's junction box or some such, in the main corridor cupboard for the block of flats). We didn't get any speed increase as hoped (in fact, we're now getting 3mb LESS upload), but the connection at least seemed more stable.
    Fast forward to March, and now some of the old troubles have returned. We're not disconnected as much, but there are plenty of spells where we'll randomly get huge packet loss, which makes internet usage nearly impossible (webpages wont load or take ages to load, ping times in online gaming nose dive, NowTV app on the Xbox will keep dropping out, etc). Sometimes these spells last 5 minutes and then all is normal, while other times they'll keep returning in 5-10 minute batches until we give up and reset the HH5 (which often causes it to settle back to normal, though not always).
    For what it's worth, I've not spotted any common denominator during these spells. No incoming calls, no random devices running which might interfere, no changes in browsing habits). I already disabled/fixed/changed the usual things people tell you to (the auto wireless thing in the HH settings, wireless channels, etc).
    Here are some examples from PingPlotter which give you some idea of what's going on:
    1. A 10 minute spell of packet loss. You can see the normal stable connection to the left and right of it.
     2. Another 5 minute spell of packet loss (with a couple of red bars in showing no connection at all), and then the big red block is after we reset the HH. Note the perfectly stable connection right after.
     3. One of the crazy 30 minute batches of packet loss. This one happened overnight (often we'll try to use the Internet channels via the YouView box in the morning and it'll say no connection, despite the connection being fine (at the time), and we'll have to cycle the HH yet again).
     4. A wider snapshot over the course of 2 hours. Internet connection will vary wildly between working as normal and then 5 seconds later being unable to load a page, then back to normal, and so on.
     5. Even wider snapshot over the course of 24 hours or so. Lord knows what was going on.
    6. Snapshot taken just now. After a couple of spells of 5-10 minutes mass packet loss I spotted another one coming (15:24) and did a HH cycle (big red bar). Upon reconnection the graph shows things being pretty unstable, until finally the HH disconnected again (big red bar at 15:42) by itself. Currently it's still unstable as above. I expect another disconnection wil be forthcoming.
    I'm loathe to manually reset the HH as I know that's not healthy, but if I don't do it we'll just get these spells of massive packet loss over and over again until it just disconnects itself (and it'll happen at inoppertune moments, such as during an online game, or while we're doing online banking, or while we're watching a footie match on BT Sport). I'd rather control when it disconnects myself and pick the right moment. A common war cry in our household has become "I'm resetting the hub, stop what you're doing!"
    Now, I'm not some perfectionist that demands a 100% stable line 100% of the time, but frankly, while with *cough* Sky *cough*, we went for years with barely a disconnection in sight. I almost never had to manually reboot it. You'd think the supposedly superior Infinity would be at least comparable, but it's been nothing but trouble. This situation is especially annoying as Youview needs the connection for the TV channels, and we're either losing them entirely or they're breaking up at random intervals. 
    At some point I may have to fork out for one of those Openreach modems to see if that helps, but it shouldn't be up to the customer to fix a problem, that shouldn't really exist in the first place, by paying out of their own pocket. 
    Does *anyone* have any advice, here? We're locked into a million year control now so leaving isn't an option, and you'd think if there was an obvious, major problem with the line they'd have spotted it and fixed it last time. Users? Mods? Buddah? Anyone?

    I've contacted the mods about the problem (again). Hopefully someone will check this thread.
    For reference, here's a PingPlotter graph which shows me going from wireless (18:46) to wired (18:48) and back to wireless (18:56) during one of the evening's usual bouts of nonsense.
    So yes, most of the chaos is with the wireless rather than the wired. Problem is, the full hub disconnections affect everything (wireless AND wired devices). Before someone says "well change your wireless channel!" or "investigate interference!" -- two points: 1) wireless devices are absolutely perfect for 90% of the day, and 2) there are random disconnections of the hub (orange light) interspersed with the wireless problems, and sometimes completely divorced from the wireless problems.

  • TS1741 How do I connect my Apple TV to a new router without the remote?

    I lost my remote recently but have been using the remote app on my phone which works pretty good instead of buying one. My router went out today I bout a new one but how do I get it to connect? 

    You can't, you will need to buy a remote to set up the new network.

  • I tried for update but when i saw the screen its showing an arrow with a USB cable towards itunes icon, and now i'm not able to do anything, i also tried to connect ipad through my laptop but no use

    i tried for update but when i saw the screen its showing an arrow with a USB cable towards itunes icon, and now i'm not able to do anything, i also tried to connect ipad through my laptop but no use

    That message means that you have to restore the iPad now. There was a problem with the update. So connect the iPad to your computer and restore your iPad.
    You can read bout it here.
    http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1414
    If that does not work you will need recovery mode. You can read about it here.
    http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4097
    Or you can follow these Recovery Mode Instructions
    Disconnect the USB cable from the iPad, but leave the other end of the cable connected to your computer's USB port.
    Turn off iPad: Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button for a few seconds until the red slider appears, then slide the slider. Wait for iPad to turn off.
    If you cannot turn off iPad using the slider, press and hold the Sleep/Wake and Home buttons at the same time. When the iPad turns off, release the Sleep/Wake and Home buttons.
    While pressing and holding the Home button, reconnect the USB cable to iPad. When you reconnect the USB cable, iPad should power on.
    Continue holding the Home button until you see the "Connect to iTunes" screen. When this screen appears you can release the Home button.
    If necessary, open iTunes. You should see the recovery mode alert that iTunes has detected an iPad in recovery mode.
    Use iTunes to restore iPad.

  • Brand New 160GB Ipod Classic Not Responding to USB 2.0 connections Why?

    I bought it online from Apple as a Christmas gift back in September. It charged succesfully using a wall charger but when connected to Windows PC's and Laptops(also running windows)neither computer recognized the Ipod as a connected device. The Ipod itself did nothing when connected. It showed no error screen nor did it begin to charge as most do when you connect them to a PC. What is seen on the screen is all the different menus you have to choose from like music, video and what not. All the stuff your supposed to see. I have no idea why it is not being regoznied by any PC unless it is incompatable with USB ports. If that's the case what am I to do about it? Aside from not connecting to PC's it appears to be working fine. The preloaded games play as they should and it does nothing out of the ordianary. Wall chargers work with it but attempted connections to PC's with USB 2.0 ports garner no response from the device. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    I had difficulty making my 160GB Ipod classic recognized as a device by my PC. I pushed and held down the menu and cener buttons for a bout 5 seconds. The apple logo appeared and ever since then my computer sees it as a device and it works as it should.

  • Airport: Self-assigned ip address, can't connect (public routers only)

    this has been talkeda bout before, but is extremely frustrating, because i don't have the problem with a PC.
    1/2 of the public routers i connect to have some kind of login page, most the time they just say "youre getting free internet, click here" ... but sometimes that login page never comes up, and the network card says "airport has a self-assigned ip address and may not be able to connect to the internet"
    this only happens on pulic routers for me, and only ones that have login pages.
    its very odd because for example, starbucks has all the same routers, all are "attwifi" now .. i go to one, i get hte login screen, go to a different one, i don't get it...and can't connect
    with a PC, i get it every time.
    this is undoubtably a leopard problem, that needs to be fixed. please!

    The wifi icon shows no connection with the network -- the "!" mark.
    However the computer sees the network, i.e. when I search in Network Preferences the network is listed.
    So: 1) the computer sees the network but 2) will not connect to the network. The reason given for refusal to connect is "self-assigned IP address".
    Not to be repetitive but two other Mac laptops are connected to the same network and working perfectly. The network preferences, as shown in the "advanced" section, are the same for all machines, i.e. DHCP is selected and IPv6 is Automatic.

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