Brightness , and Stting details

Hi Everybody ,
I ve just got the win10 T(technical) P(preview) , i ve download it on my Win Surface 1 pro . For now it works well .
just few detail that i need to understand , like the tablette mode .
But the first thing ,is how can i manage the brightness of the tablette on Win 10 ? The only way i found is to go on battery seetings ,
The second one is how can i change the colors of the of everything ?
Sorry about my english , hope u ll understand me .
thx

But the first thing ,is how can i manage the brightness of the tablette on Win 10 ? The only way i found is to go on battery seetings ,
Thanks, I've been looking elsewhere for the brightness setting and couldn't find it. I thought it would be under the "Display" button in the notification center and it wasn't. I was really confused.
Microsoft if you're reading these; please add the brightness option under display settings. Or maybe a dedicated brightness button like on OS X to avoid confusion?
Very impressed with Win 10 thus far!
Also, I understood your English perfectly fine treussard!

Similar Messages

IOS7 Palattes: Why default to max brightness and battery drain?

After upgrading to iOS7 today my brightness slider was set to its maximum setting. I didn't think anything of it until I reduced it to 1/2 which is where I normally keep it to save on battery. I typically never have to change it even when outdoors. Today I received the surprise of a lifetime: It needs to be at near maximum just to see details like the call status bar. The WHITE text on the BRIGHT green bar is absolutely horrible and near impossible to read. I was hoping that I could change the color scheme of the status bar palettes but no luck. The best I could manage was to change the background wallpaper to a near black color that helped out only a tiny bit. What a waste of Retna display.
I can no longer use product this in an airplane cockpit for flight planning. I will have to abandon my planned purchase of an iPAD mini with Retna unless I can get iOS 6 on it
In the day light these new white screen backgrounds require loads more brightness to be able to see details and therefore causing unexpected battery drain not to mention creating a hazard of a night blindess (old scheme had dark backgrounds light text instead of other way around)..
Questions:
- How do we get rid of the white screens that require max brightness to see detail?
- How do we get customizable palattes? Customer knows better than Apple -- my eyesight can't handle white text and bright backgrounds for status bars.
- Will Apple see this as a priority one issue and give us CHOICES on the PALATTE schemes?

Hello,
I am currently an owner of an Ipod Touch 4th generation.
I have had battery drain problem on the Ipod Touch 4th generation.
But, I found a solution that works for me:
Do the IOS update (the one that is the latest, or if you already did, then proceed to step 2)
Reset All Settings: SETTINGS>GENERAL>RESET>RESET ALL SETTINGS
Use it until it dies (automatically shuts off)
Plug into Charge
Leave it 1.5 hours or longer after it reaches 100% --> Undisturbed (preferably overnight)
Give it a few days to Calibrate
This has helped me on my Ipod Touch 4th generation, running IOS 6.0.1
The battery seems to give me 2 days 30 hours of standby, and 10 hours and 15 minutes of usage.
Thats pretty good!

Nikon D300s images too bright and interlaced.

So this is my first time shooting and editing video and I'm getting some weird errors.
I'm running Windows 7, and when I view the video files after downloading them from the card, the whites all seem too bright and blown out, no matter which media player I use. When I import the videos into Premiere CS5, the whites are not so blown out and there's detail.
BUT when I'm done editing and save the file as a HD H.264 720p 24fps file, the whites are again blown out AND there's obvious interlacing.
How do I get my whites to not be blown out, and how do I get the output to be deinterlaced?

You've told others on this forum to use professional monitors.
Not everyone has access to a professional monitor. I will never have access to a professional monitor. Not everyone is a video professional and not everyone cares to be one. I just want a video that looks good on YouTube. A professional monitor is not an option.
All I know is that on the same monitor, when playing the originals and the final exported file the whites look noticably more blown out than they do when previewed within Premiere.
The D300s only shoots in progressive, but when I export from Premiere (making sure Progressive is selected) the video looks interlaced.

LIghtroom Auto Tone Too Dark and Loses Detail

Hi,
I'm new to Lightroom so excuse my ignorance if I use the wrong terminology or ask a question that has a relatively easy answer I somehow overlooked inside of Lightroom.
I take photos at my son's soccer games and frequently walk away with over 200 photos to adjust, crop, etc. after removing the poor composition, out of focus and other shots. One of the features that prompted me to purchase Lightroom to replace my existing tool (Capture One LE) was the way Lightroom handled colors in the Auto Tone preset. Photos auto adjusted in Lightroom with the Auto Tone feature exhibit a much more rich/vibrant color than the ones that would come out of Capture One LE for me.
However, I've noticed that Auto Tone also darkens areas of the photo to the point where a significant amount of detail is lost. For example, a shot of a player head on with a shadow across his face and front of his jersey loses facial detail around the eyes, nose, mouth and folds in the front of the jersey because the coloring is darkened to the point where the highlights are lost.
I've tried several adjustments to regain the highlights and associated detail, but am unsure if there's a better way to recover the detail (or gain the tone enhancements without losing the detail). So far, the adjustments I've tried to regain the detail have caused the colors to wash out somewhat and reduce the benefit gained with the color enhancements of Auto Tone.
Is there a better way of regaining the detail after using Auto Tone? And on a related note, is there a way to "undo" just the Auto Tone adjustment in a photo if it's not the last adjustment made, or does one need to step backward through the adjusments undoing each adjustment in order to get to the Auto Tone adjustment in order to remove it?
Thanks in advance for any direction or suggestions anyone can provide. FYI, my photos were all in RAW format (noticed a lot of other posts referring to LR Auto Tone washing out JPGs, but this isn't my issue), with a Canon 20D.
Dale

There are several ways to go, here, as always with Lightroom in this situation. I suppose one thing you can do is use Auto Tone as you've been doing, and then back down another slider or two, particularly Contrast and Brightness, that moves too far for your taste when you hit Auto Tone.
I don't use Auto Tone. It's considered a machete where deftly-wielded surgical knives get much better results. I tested Auto Tone out on a virtual copy of one of my photos of people for you to see what happens. It bumps Contrast way up, drops Brightness a bit, reduces Fill Light, and increases Blacks slightly. Yeah, that would pretty much get the results you're complaining about! Might work okay in some landscape shots in some very subdued lighting situations, but it will make family shots too harsh.
Let me suggest another approach. First, no one checklist approach like I'm about to suggest works for every photo. But when you learn how to use the sliders yourself, and not rely on the automatic and strongest ones, like Auto Tone and Contrast, your photos will look better than you even realized. Seriously! I know what you're saying:
I take 200 photos at a time, and I don't have time to play with sliders for each photo. Hear me out, though, because you do. Once you get the hang of it, you'll learn to do all this so fast, well less than one minute per keeper shot, and you'll see that it's worth the small amount of time it takes.
First look at all your Imported shots and quickly weed out most of them. Don't try to save the ones where your main subject is out-of-focus or turned away at the last second, or badly overexposed shots, or for whatever reason, aren't worth editing time because you know you have better ones... and you should weed out MOST shots (maybe at least 150) if you took 200! Be a tough editor! Hit the X key as you look at ones to cull, then click Filter by black flag until all the Rejected photos Only are isolated, check them one more time to be sure you didn't X some you want by mistake, ctrl-A them to highlight all the Rejected ones ONLY, and hit Delete to blow them all away, From Disk. Congratulate yourself, because you just saved a lot of editing time.
Assuming the Exposure was in the right ballpark, fix Color Temp first. For your first keeper shot, move that Temp slider near upper right of Develop, almost certainly to the right for Canon Raw shots, to warm the faces a bit. You probably don't want the kids' faces ruddy red, but a little warming so that white jerseys just begin to go slightly to the red side of white, makes your outdoor people photos glow. It wouldn't be surprising to see family soccer photos in the 6000-6500 range look best. If you want cold journalistic realism, leave white jerseys pure white and Temp down in the 4000-5000 range on a cloudy day or 5000-6000 range on a sunny one. Now, if one shot's right, and
if your light didn't change during the shoot (sun going in and out of clouds, sun setting, field lights turning on halfway through the game), you can fix Temp for all your remaining shots with just a couple of clicks! Leave the first shot you fixed Temp for highlighted, and ctrl-A the whole filmstrip (or, alternatively, you can just ctrl-click the ones taken in the same light). Now click the Sync button that appears near the lower right corner of Develop. A window pops. Make sure White Balance is checked, and click Synchronize. (Every field checked here gets applied the same as on the first highlighted shot to all your subsequently highlighted shots when you do this. Since you haven't changed anything else yet, you don't have to uncheck the other boxes-- it won't matter. But later, after you've made other adjustments to other shots, you might only want to leave the boxes checked for fields you do want applied the same to all highlighted photos.) When you click Synchronize, watch all the highlighted photos in the filmstrip at the bottom get a warmer color balance. You can always later make more refined adjustments to individual shots or groups of shots that go too red or not warm enough.
The next thing to fix is the Exposure. Get in the habit of constantly consulting that Histogram graph at the top of the right column. Ideally, though this isn't always possible or ideal, but generally, you'd like to see neither triangle in the upper right and left corners
lit. (When it's right, you'll still see the outline of the triangle, but it won't be illuminated.) Even better, for an average outdoor shot with a variety of light and dark tones, you want to see a nice balanced line across most of the graph, curving up from the left and down on the right. Not always possible or the best exposure for every shot, mind you, just average ones. (A silhouette shot on a beach with the setting sun in the photo is an example of a shot where the best Histogram will look the opposite of that!) Try moving Exposure slowly to the left and right and watch how the Histogram moves. Try to get the best average placement you can, and see if the photo still looks right.
Or watch your grass with soccer shots while you move Exposure back and forth. Grass should look middle green, not too bright, and not dull-muddy-dark. Or watch faces. If you still have a triangle on the upper right of Histogram, which means highlight detail is blowing out, try sliding Recovery to the right just until the upper right triangle disappears, if possible. (It isn't always possible, even with Recovery at 100.) If you still have a triangle on the upper left of Histogram (that one means shadows are muddy with no detail), try sliding Blacks down from 5 towards 0, just until the triangle goes away. Sometimes it's easier to make a triangle go away by moving Exposure a bit. If there's no triangle on the upper left, try increasing Black slowly just until one appears in the upper left, then back off a bit until it just goes away again. If there are harsh shadows, increase Fill Light to brighten shadows a bit until it looks right. Losing the triangles is a general goal but not as important as having photos look right to you. It's a juggling act. Sometimes when you remove the triangles, the grass is muddy brownish, faces look wrong, or highlights are too dull. Maybe you move Exposure, Highlights or Blacks to put one or both triangles back but leave the overall photo better.
Now just do two more things, especially as you're learning this: first, increase Clarity. Probably a bunch. If faces go too harsh on you with Clarity at a highsetting, and they can in closeup, you may want about a 20-45 on Clarity. Many photos look best with even higher Clarity settings, even 100 for landscapes. Now bump Vibrance up, probably to the left of the Clarity slider, though. Too high a setting on Vibrance makes colors looks cartoonish and fake. Are faces too ruddy or foliage too over-the-top? Back off on Vibrance.
Look at the Histogram one more time and touch up Recovery and Blacks again if needed to get rid of barely reappearing triangles.
I recommend you do not move the following sliders, generally, for 99% of your photos, anyway: Tint (just usually not needed if the camera is doing color balance correctly), and Brightness, Contrast, and Saturation, all of which are ham-handed ways of doing what you do more precisely with the other sliders. About the only time you need Saturation is to move it left with a rare shot that for some reason has too much color especially red even with Vibrance set to 0. (Maybe your camera is set to Vivid.)
Doing these things will make most of your photos look WAY better than hitting Auto Tone. And once you get the hang of it, as I said, you can do each photo in well less than one minute, and you only do this on your keepers, so it doesn't take much time.

Photoshop's brightness and exposure controls?

Can anyone explain the difference(s) between Photoshop's brightness control and its exposure control?
Thanks,
Mark

Did it ever occur to you to consult the documentation, Mark. Say, the User Guide and/or the Help files?
Exposure command
Adjusts tonality by performing calculations in a linear color space. Exposure is primarily for use in HDR images. See Adjust Exposure for HDR image.
Adjust Exposure for HDR images
Comments (0)
The Exposure adjustment is designed for making tonal adjustments to HDR images, but it works with 8‑bit and 16‑bit images. Exposure works by performing calculations in a linear color space (gamma 1.0) rather than the current color space.
1. Do one of the following:
Click the Exposure icon or an Exposure preset in the Adjustments panel.
Choose Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Exposure.
Note: You can also choose Image > Adjustments > Exposure. But keep in mind that this method makes direct adjustments to the image layer and discards image information. Adjustment layers for 32-bit images are available in Photoshop Extended only.
2. In the Adjustments panel, set any of the following options:
Exposure
Adjusts the highlight end of the tonal scale with minimal effect in the extreme shadows.
Offset
Darkens the shadows and midtones with minimal effect on the highlights.
Gamma
Adjusts the image gamma, using a simple power function. Negative values are mirrored around zero (that is, they remain negative but still get adjusted as if they are positive).
The eyedroppers adjust the luminance values of images (unlike the Levels eyedroppers that affect all color channels).
The Set Black Point eyedropper sets the Offset, shifting the pixel you click to zero.
The Set White Point eyedropper sets the Exposure, shifting the point you click to white (1.0 for HDR images).
The Midtone eyedropper sets the Exposure, making the value you click middle gray.
=== === ===
Apply the Brightness/Contrast adjustment
Comments (0)
The Brightness/Contrast adjustment lets you make simple adjustments to the tonal range of an image. Moving the brightness slider to the right increases tonal values and expands image highlights, to the left decreases values and expands shadows. The contrast slider expands or shrinks the overall range of tonal values in the image.
In normal mode, Brightness/Contrast applies proportionate (nonlinear) adjustments to image layer, as with Levels and Curves adjustments. When Use Legacy is selected, Brightness/Contrast simply shifts all pixel values higher or lower when adjusting brightness. Since this can cause clipping or loss of image detail in highlight or shadow areas, using Brightness/Contrast in Legacy mode is not recommended for photographic images (but can be useful for editing masks or scientific imagery).
Note: Use Legacy is automatically selected when editing Brightness/Contrast adjustment layers created with previous versions of Photoshop.
1. Do one of the following:
Click the Brightness/Contrast icon in the Adjustments panel.
Choose Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Brightness/Contrast. Click OK in the New Layer dialog box.
Note: You can also choose Image > Adjustments > Brightness/Contrast. But keep in mind that this method makes direct adjustments to the image layer and discards image information.
2. In the Adjustments panel, drag the sliders to adjust the brightness and contrast.
Dragging to the left decreases the level, and dragging to the right increases it. The number at the right of each slider reflects the brightness or contrast value. Values can range from ‑150 to +150 for Brightness, ‑50 to +100 for Contrast.

Image changes brightness and contrast after importing. LR 5.3

I'm importing RAW files straight from a CF card reader into my network storage drive via LR5.3. While reviewing as it imports initially each image looks great but a few seconds after it loads onto the screen it seems like LR applies a bit of extra brightness and lessens the contrast and I lose a load of detail that was there originally. I've not touched the import settings and no filters are being applied by myself on import.
Thanks in advance.

Andrew Rodney wrote:
the initial prevew you see is wrong ... LR is showing you the correct preview ...
I think I know what you're trying to say there Andrew, but to attempt a clarification for the OP (and other readers):
* Lr's rendering may be considered "correct" in Lightroom because it's, well, Lightroom's rendering.
Given the terminology posed by Andrew, in a Nikon software environment, Lightroom's rendering would be considered wrong, and Nikon's correct. And such is the perspective that many people bring to Lr - that Nikon's rendering should be considered "correct", and Lr's rendering should "match", and to the extent that it doesn't, it's "wrong"...
The bottom line (from my perspective):
Since Lr's rendering ignores camera settings (as manufacturer's rendering ignores Lightroom settings), one needs to learn to (set up defaults and) apply Lightroom settings to have the Lightroom rendering how they want..
Cheers,
Rob

How to get Week,Month and Year details from a date column

Hi frenz,
I've a column like tran_date which is a date column..... I need the next week details based on this column and so on...
I need month and year details as well based on this tran_date column.... can any one tell me how...
Thanks in advance

My example for objects:
create or replace type date_object as object
centure number,
year    number,
month   number,
day     number,
hour    number,
minute number,
second number,
daypart number,
week    number,
constructor function date_object(p_dt date)
    return SELF as result
create or replace type body date_object is
constructor function date_object(p_dt date)
    return SELF as result
as
begin
    SELF.centure:= trunc(to_char(p_dt,'YYYY')/100);
    SELF.year:=    to_char(p_dt,'YYYY');
    SELF.month:=   to_char(p_dt,'MM');
    SELF.day:=     to_char(p_dt,'DD');
    SELF.hour:=    to_char(p_dt,'HH24');
    SELF.minute:= to_char(p_dt,'MI');
    SELF.second:= to_char(p_dt,'SS');
    SELF.daypart:= p_dt-trunc(p_dt,'DD');
    SELF.week:=    to_char(p_dt,'IW');
    return;
end;
end;
select date_object(sysdate),
       date_object(sysdate).year
from dual;Regards,
Sayan M.

Vendor ledger along with cheque and bank details

Dear Experts,
I have one developement my client is asking he wants to vendor all items without cheque and bank details we will get thru fbl1n but my client is asking with cheque and bank details i know these detials are getting from bsak bsik and payr tables we will get but i want to give me logics how can i get in a proper way.i will mention below my requirement kindly give me some idea.
Vendor number 360002     Name      Neha Chemicals
posting date of invoice/payment     Document number of invoice / payment     document type invoice/payment     reference invoice/payment     documentdate invoice/payment     amount invoice/payment     partial clearing remaining amt     bank code     cheque number     cheque pmt date     cheque amt
10.05.2009     10000001     KR     1     11.05.2009     500     100     SBI     100000     11.05.2009     400
11.05.2009     20000000     KZ     1     11.05.2009     400          SBI     100000     11.05.2009     400
11.05.2009     10000002     KR     2     14.05.2009     3000          idbi     100001     15.05.2009     3000
12.05.2009     10000003     KR     3     14.05.2009     2000          idbi     100001     15.05.2009     2000
13.05.2009     10000004     KR     4     14.05.2009     40000          idbi     100001     15.05.2009     40000
14.05.2009     10000005     KR     5     14.05.2009     5000          idbi     100001     15.05.2009     5000
15.05.2009     20000001     KZ     2     15.05.2009     40000          idbi     100001     15.05.2009     40000
closing balance                          -     1000                    -
The first document we have paid 400 only tha remaining amount is 100 (500-100) that amount they are asking in unadjusted amt
and remaining all invoices they have paid with one cheque that cheque number they want against that invocie
please observe you will get idea and give me your valuable inputs
appraisals are waiting.
Thanks inadvance
Nauma.

Dear Ramesh,
I know this solution but my client is asking they want seperately for all these details and they want bank code also how can i main tain for all these things and if u dont mine kindly tell me logic how can i map the detail from payr and bsak table details give me any idea.
Thanks and regards,
Numa.

Move Order lines and Delivery Detail lines - Relationship

Hi All,
Is there a one - to - one realtionship between Move Order Line and Delivery Detail Line?
i.e., Each Move Order line will correspond to only one Delivery Details line Record?
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Gowri

Hello,
There is a one - to - many relationship between Move Order Line and Delivery Detail Line when you split lines in delivery.
select * from mtl_material_transactions t you have source_id.
select * from WSH_DELIVERABLES_v t you have move_order_id.
Regards,
Luko

Report to display PO details and download details in an excel fil

Hi,
I have been asked to develop a report for "Develop report to display PO details and download details in an excel file".
Could any one guide me technically what are the different tables i need to take to generate the report. Treat this is very urgent. Pls provide sample code too....
Thanks in advance....

Purchase Order PO
Tcode for creation ME21,ME22,ME23. tables EKKO,EKPO.
refer this program
REPORT ZPOCHANGE.
This is a subroutine perform in the Purchase order Layout sets.
Description : To retreive the details of changed remarks in PO output and to capture the retrival date
                     Additional features with the previous changed appearing. e.g. from .... to
Note        : If the latest modification details required
Please Uncomment the lines mentioned under 'Last Modified Remarks only'
Information
/: PERFORM CHDATE IN PROGRAM ZPOCHANGE
/:               USING &EKKO-EBELN&
/:               CHANGING &RVDATE2&
/: ENDPERFORM.
/: IF &RVDATE2& EQ ' '.
/ Revision Date: NIL
/: ELSE.
/ Revision Date: &RVDATE2&
/: ENDIF.
Main Window
/E CHANGE_REMARKS
/: PERFORM CHDET IN PROGRAM ZPOCHANGE
/:            USING &EKPO-EBELP&
/:            USING &EKKO-EBELN&
/:            USING &T166T-CHTXT&
/:            USING &T166T-CTXNR&
/:            CHANGING &ITAB1-F_NEW&
/:            CHANGING &ITAB1-F_OLD&
/:ENDPERFORM.
/:IF &ITAB1-F_NEW& NE ' '
= &ITAB1-F_OLD(C)& CHANGED TO &ITAB1-F_NEW(C)&
/:ENDIF
You might need to apply Note 373524 - Message determination and printing
TABLES : CDSHW , "Change documents, formatting table
         CDHDR , "Change document header
         EKPO , "Purchasing Document Item
         EKKO , "Purchasing Document Header
         T166C . "Print-Relevant Purchasing Document Changes
DATA   : ITAB1 LIKE CDSHW OCCURS 100 WITH HEADER LINE.
DATA   : ITAB2 LIKE EKPO OCCURS 100 WITH HEADER LINE.
DATA   : DOCUM LIKE EKKO OCCURS 100 WITH HEADER LINE.
DATA   : TABKEY LIKE CDSHW-TABKEY.
data    : begin of ctab occurs 10,
          tname like t166c-tname,
          fname like t166c-fname,
          TABKEY LIKE CDSHW-TABKEY,
          FLAG(3),
          end of ctab.
DATA   : VAL1(15), VAL2(15).
DATA : M1(20), M2(10), M3(10),M4(5).
DATA : RVDATE(10),RVDATE2(10) , EBELN LIKE EKKO-EBELN, COUNT TYPE I.
Text number for change text(CTXNR), CHANGE TEXT(CHTXT), Purchase order
Number and item number are passed from Layoutset
      FORM CHDET                                                    *
--> ITAB                                                          *
--> OTAB                                                          *
FORM CHDET TABLES ITAB STRUCTURE ITCSY
                  OTAB STRUCTURE ITCSY.
LOOP AT ITAB.
    CASE ITAB-NAME.
      WHEN 'T166T-CHTXT'.
        MOVE ITAB-VALUE TO M1.
      WHEN 'T166T-CTXNR'.
        MOVE ITAB-VALUE TO M2.
      WHEN 'EKKO-EBELN'.
        MOVE ITAB-VALUE TO M3.
      WHEN 'EKPO-EBELP'.
        MOVE ITAB-VALUE TO M4.
    ENDCASE.
ENDLOOP.
Throught this function change details are retrived into itab1.
CALL FUNCTION 'ME_CHANGES_READ'
       EXPORTING
            DOCUMENT_CATEGORY = 'F'
            DOCUMENT_NUMBER   = M3
       TABLES
            XCDSHW            = itab1.
SELECT SINGLE * FROM T166C WHERE CTXNR = M2.
IF SY-SUBRC = 0.
    CONCATENATE M3 M4 INTO TABKEY.
********Last Modified Remarks only**********************
   read table ctab with key tname = T166C-TNAME
                                     tabkey = tabkey
                                     fname   = T166C-FNAME.
   if sy-subrc ne 0.
    LOOP AT ITAB1 WHERE TABNAME = T166C-TNAME
                                  AND   TABKEY+3(15) = TABKEY
                                  AND   FNAME = T166C-FNAME.
*********Last Modified Remarks only**********************
       ctab-tname = t166c-tname.
       ctab-fname = t166c-fname.
       ctab-tabkey = tabkey.
       append ctab.
      delete itab1.
      exit.
    endloop.
Captured details are exported to Layoutset
    LOOP AT OTAB.
      CASE OTAB-NAME.
        WHEN 'ITAB1-F_OLD'.
          OTAB-VALUE = ITAB1-F_OLD.
          MODIFY OTAB.
          CLEAR : ITAB1-F_OLD.
        WHEN 'ITAB1-F_NEW'.
          OTAB-VALUE = ITAB1-F_NEW.
          MODIFY OTAB.
          CLEAR : ITAB1-F_NEW.
      ENDCASE.
    endloop.
endif.
******Last Modified Remarks only****************
ENDIF.
clear ctab.
ENDFORM.
      FORM CHDATE                                                   *
--> ITAB                                                          *
--> OTAB                                                          *
Form for revision date retrival. PO no. is passed from layoutset
and in the change document header latest modified date is captured
and passed to revision date field in Layoutset.
FORM CHDATE TABLES ITAB STRUCTURE ITCSY
                  OTAB STRUCTURE ITCSY.
CLEAR : RVDATE, EBELN.
LOOP AT ITAB.
    CASE ITAB-NAME.
      WHEN 'EKKO-EBELN'.
        MOVE ITAB-VALUE TO EBELN.
    ENDCASE.
ENDLOOP.
SELECT UDATE INTO CDHDR-UDATE FROM CDHDR WHERE OBJECTCLAS = 'EINKBELEG'
                                                   AND OBJECTID = EBELN.
    IF RVDATE < CDHDR-UDATE.
      RVDATE = CDHDR-UDATE.
    ENDIF.
    COUNT = COUNT + 1.
ENDSELECT.
LOOP AT OTAB.
    CASE OTAB-NAME.
      WHEN 'RVDATE2'.
     CONCATENATE RVDATE6(2) '.' RVDATE4(2) '.' RVDATE(4) INTO RVDATE2.
        IF COUNT = 1.
          RVDATE2 = ''.
        ENDIF.
        MOVE RVDATE2 TO OTAB-VALUE.
        MODIFY OTAB.
    ENDCASE.
ENDLOOP.
CLEAR : COUNT.
ENDFORM.
Message was edited by:
        Karthikeyan Pandurangan

Dynamically show and hide detail columns according to master column value

i want to create a page where 2 level master detail.
that is main master region with search option for query (query region)
2nd detail with table
and 3rd detail. (1-2-3)
Here in 3rd detail region, some fields should be shown and some fields hide according to the value of one filed in 2nd detail table(for the current selected row).
please advice
or
please point me to any similar posts

Zam,
show/hide is only beneficial if its optioanl for user to hide or show the fields at your detail region.If it is not , you will have to use PPR and transient VO approach.
--Mukul

Does anyone has a problem with the screen of the new ipad? (there's a part of the screen which the color in it is "very" bright) and when I move the aluminium part of the smart cover when it's attached to the ipad the colors change!! Help!!!

Does anyone has a problem with the screen of the new ipad? (there's a part of the screen which the color in it is "very" bright) and when I move the aluminium part of the smart cover when it's attached to the ipad the colors change!! Help!!!

I'd take it into my local APple store and have them look at it. There may be something wrong inside your device.

Please maintain PAN and LST details Error while extending the Vendor in Purchasing Organisation

Dear Gurus,
I have created a import vendor 200100 in finance using FK01 and mentioned LST, CST and PAN No details as "Nil", but when i am extending the Import vendor 200100 to purchasing organization level using T code XKO1, while saving i an getting error as: "Please maintain PAN and LST details" even i checked in J1ID also... Excise data is maintained for this vendor. Please help me to resolve this issue. Many thanks.
Regards,
Siddu M

Hi,
You have to maintain PAN and LST number in Vendor master. This can be done in two ways :
1. Go to transaction code J1ID. Select Vendor Excise details and click on Edit
Click on
Next Screen
OR
2. Go to Vendor Master
Click on
Next Screen
Click on Sales Tax / Service tax tab
Click on Withholding Tax tab
In case CIN tab is not visible please revert as it comes on the basis of configuration which will be guided to you.
We have said OR because in case it is updated in J1ID it reflects in CIN details or vice versa.
Hope, this solves your issue else revert.
Regards,
Tejas

NVIDIA brightness and suspend issues on VAIO

Hello,
I have problems with NVIDIA driver (assuming) and I searched similar topics on forum but still couldn't solved. I'm on ARCH 3.1.5 Xfce, installed nvidia-290 proprietary driver and nvidiabl from AUR. No swap partition and using lightdm. Laptop model is VAIO VPCF132FX, resolution at 1600x900.
blank screen when switching to tty1 - tty6 but I can run commands in virtual consoles (tried log in and reboot from tty1 not seeing just typed). I added vga=xxx in grub kernel line and it's changing resolution while booting but switch to ttys still gives blank screen. I think it's happening after started X. If I doesn't start Xfce I can switch.
can't resume from suspend. I think it suspends successfully and when try to back it freezes, no inputs from keyboard (tried some shorcuts, numlock, password etc) and blank screen. After few seconds fan reaches at it's loudest and I ended up with 5sec turn off. Is it hardware related issue or kernel (or X lightdm Xfce). Should I use laptop-mode-tools to get suspend work or missing something?
if I added
Option "RegistryDwords" "EnableBrightnessControl=1"
to "Device" section in xorg.conf, keyboard shortcut of brightness and brightness-applet are working. It has 8 level of brightness and only top 3 of them works properly, if it gets lower from there screen blinks few seconds and back to highest brightness. I removed that line from xorg.conf, installed nvidiabl it works great except keyboard shortcut and brightness applet. How do I get shortcut and applet work on Xfce with nvidiabl? Also shortcut is working when numlock is off, is there any chance to work either numlock on or off?

Hi Dave, see if this might be of use...
Go to System Preferences > Universal Access and down in the Display: section make sure that the Enhance contrast: slider is all the way to left to Normal, or more to the right for less Contrast.

The photo print quality from my Mac to my Epson Artisan 810 is poor. When I take the same photo files (JPEGs) to my PC to print to the same printer without even uploading them to the PC, they print brighter and crisper from my PC.

The photo print quality from my Mac to my Epson Artisan 810 is poor. I just purchased my iMac for my photography business in Jan. (this is my first Mac). When I first tried printing, I noticed the quality wasn't as good as I expected it to be. Then, I had to print 4-3.5x5s on a sheet, so I e-mailed the image to myself and opened it on my PC to print it (much easier to print that way on PC in Windows Photo Gallery - I think it's impossible to print that way in iPhoto). That's when I first noticed that when I take the same photo files (JPEGs) to my PC to print to the same printer without even uploading them to the PC, they print brighter and crisper from my PC.
I've already been on the phone and e-mail w/Applecare many times over this issue. We've tried creating a test user and printing from there, and we've tried reinstalling the OS. I've tried printing from iPhoto, ImageCapture, and Preview apps/utilities, all w/the same result - no comparison to the PC-printed versions (no enhancements have been performed on the PC).
I'm out of ideas, and so is Applecare. They say it's most likely a driver issue b/c the printer is outdated, and that the only solution is to buy a new printer. BUT it is a pain for me to purchase a new printer - it takes days of research due to the nature of my business and the fact that I need a printer that can print directly onto a disc. I love this printer and don't want to have to buy a new one if I don't have to.

englishfreak2004 wrote:
Yes. I've checked for updates, and the driver I installed is the same as the one on Epson's website. I also spoke with Epson Customer Service, which was a dead end. Apple says the problem is due to an Epson driver issue (blaming Epson), but Epson says that with the older printers, it's actually Apple who creates the driver, so the problem is actually with Apple. Typical he-said, she-said...
Maybe not. Probably worth checking here:
Epson drivers for Mavericks:
http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/support/SupportMavericks.jsp

Brightness , and Stting details

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