Broadcasting of workbooks, auto-refresh and other questions

Hello Reporting gurus.
Our users run BEX Analyser queries but this is evolving towards more automation and fancy things. A lot of threads exist on the subject but I have not been able to find clear answers. We are on BI 7.
1) How do we use the broadcaster to refresh workbooks and output the results to a network share drive.
2) Queries being part of the workbooks work with user input variables. Do I have to change all queries (or create new ones identical) with user exits variables to fill in the fields for auto-refreshing w(ith let say the current year and current fiscal period etc...) ?
3) Is it possible to create a parameter input screen to pass on variables values to the broadcaster before the auto-refresh takes place so that I don't have to create user exit variables ?
4) How can we view workbooks with the BEX WEB Analyser ? Or do we have to create an application with WAD ?
Thanks

Hi Yves,
in Analyzer you have an menu entry publish with BI broadcaster, then a broadcaster will appear. there you can create a setting. inside that setting you can use a variant and with SPS 13 also variable sets. There you can define the users who should receive the updated workbook by mail. It is not possible to save to file system, but you can save in Portal.Web Analyzer is only to use with WAD and is not able to process Workbooks.
best regards,
kai

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Auto Levels and other adjustments

Just a small question..will auto levels and other adjustments degrade a photo quality. I most of the times use auto levels before developing a photo and I want to make sure that I keep the same quality of the original image after using adjustments.
Thanks in advance.

If you have limited skills-two schools of thought. Quality will be better if you fine tune- if you put in a little more time-learn full Photoshop, but not everyone has the time-interest or capibilities.
1) If U R only WANT to make basic changes--check out the IMAGE drop-down in PS. You can auto adjust -Color-Tone and Contrast by just clicking on the drop-down.
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Trying to download songs on iTunes and it's asking for "my 1st car I owned" and other questions that I never answered. It won't let me download anything til I answer them. Can you help me?

Trying to download songs on iTunes and it's asking for "my 1st car I owned" and other questions that I never answered. It won't let me download anything til I answer them. Can you help me?

You need to contact Apple to get the questions reset. Click here, phone them, and ask for the Account Security team, or fill out and submit this form.
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Capture Sharpen (and other questions)?

I have been a very big advocate of capture sharpening for fine art workflow for more than a few years now (landscape fine art gallery enlargements). I was under the impression that in ACR (7.1) by using the Radius to the left (0.5) and Detail to the right (100) I was maximizing the deconvolution aspect of sharpening and maybe even drawing out a hair more real detail from the raw file.
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My basic workflow is capture sharpen Radius 05. / Detail 100, then upsize with Smoother (40, 50, 60, 70 inches...) then do some moderate high pass, then advanced use of unsharp mask (LAB - L channel - or Luminosity - RGB - also blending/blend if sliders for fall off if necessary) then ACR grain simulation (on a seperate layer - not to create grainy photos - but create the illusion of more detail and to camouflage artifacting). I believe after years of testing and practice this seems to be about as good as it gets for my content.
Lastly, smart sharpen... I have not used this much, but do you think this workflow might benefit from using it instead of USM (with the more deconvolution - lens blur/more accurate) type of sharpen near the end)?
Side note: for those involved with focus bracketing (for increased depth of field with the sharpest f/stop) it is common knowledge that capture sharpening at the raw stage (before the Auto Align and Auto Blend in PS) confuses the auto blend algorithm as to what are the real sharper pixels. So, we don't capture sharpen those images (this is common practice).
And after blending the images (Auto Blend) we usually just size up (for enlargement) and go. Now I am thinking that after the focus blending is finished and the file is flattened it might be a good idea to bring that tif file back into ACR and apply a little bit of capture sharpening before the upsize. Does that make sense to you?
Cheers for your time and feedback!
Message linebreaks added by: PECourtejoie

Disclaimer: I did not entirely understand the original post, and maybe some of this does not apply in your multi-step process, so take with salt...
ACRFREAK wrote:
With low ISO shots (100) I always try to use the least noise reduction possible in ACR (less is more approach) which means on correctly exposed images ("to the right") on Canon cameras, my ACR settings are often 0 on luminance and 0-5 on color noise.
At ISO 100, I rarely use any luminance noise reduction, however my experience is that even under ideal circumstances including low ISO, a modicum of color noise reduction is still essential for optimum image quality. - it is almost never desirable to set color noise reduction to zero, IMO - YMMV. (Note: in NX2 - you don't even get a choice about it - (true) color noise reduction will be applied, as Nikon sees fit).
Note: ACR's color noise reduction algorithm is image adaptive (it's more "aggressive" on higher ISO shots). You shouldn't see much (if any real) detail loss with color noise reduction at 25 on ISO 100 shots, eh?
ACRFREAK wrote:
My theory is that I am trying to keep a much of the fine detail as possible. Also the reason I like the 0.5 radius and 100 detail.
In my opinion, ideally, the sharpen settings should depend on the photo - type, and inherent focus... (.5/100 may be great for ultra-clean, ultra-sharp landscapes, but may not be appropriate for portraits...)
But different strokes for different folks. (and I don't know what kinds of photos you mainly (or only) shoot).
Rob

Auto-Refresh and Order By for view accessors

Hi,
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if(this.getSortBy() == null){
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Thanks
Thiru

Please see http://download.oracle.com/docs/cd/E11882_01/appdev.112/e17125/adfns_cqn.htm#CHDGEBFH. Look like OREDER By is supported only in Best-Effort mode.
When you call .setSortBy("Name"), it happens in memory not part of SQL, apparently that works

LOV's auto refresh and having unique values.

Hi, I'm having LOVs connected with few attributes of a table, and those fields are used in view criteria of the table.
This view criteria is used in the af:query component as search fields.
To avoid the duplicates in the LOV, i created a separate view for each of the attribute, using the distinct key , and connected them with the attribute via view accessors. So that the af:query component , search field drop downs can give unique value of the column.
There is an another requirement, to refresh the LOVs of the search field, when there is a change in the database. To accomplish this auto refresh property of the view's query, i added the PK of the table with each view. By doing this i can see the latest values of the database in the UI . ie, the LOVs of af:query getting the changes of database.
But this one causing, the duplicate values to be in LOV, and the distinct key word in the view's query will not work because of the PK of table is added to query.
I tried different ways to query , like groupby . But no success.
I need both auto refresh as well as unique values in the LOVs of the af:query . Could some one point me a reference to solve this. Thanks .
Edited by: user642477 on Oct 7, 2010 10:52 AM

user642477 wrote:
Hi, I'm having LOVs connected with few attributes of a table, and those fields are used in view criteria of the table.
This view criteria is used in the af:query component as search fields.
To avoid the duplicates in the LOV, i created a separate view for each of the attribute, using the distinct key , and connected them with the attribute via view accessors. So that the af:query component , search field drop downs can give unique value of the column.
why you have done that what is your reason?!!! it seems so wierd to me? you could easily add distinct on query of the viewobject!

Safari auto refresh and iCloud

When composing an email in the webmail application at the iCloud website, the Safari screen on my MacBook Air will refresh every few minutes, causing me to lose the work I have done. I end up with a blank screen for the window that I was composing the email in. I don't recall seeing this problem on my other Macs, which are not MBAs. Does anyone have an idea on how to stop this auto refresh? I tried turning off Java Script but iCloud requires it to work.

Well, perhaps I have fixed this problem. I cleared out all the cookies on my MBA yesterday. I tested this again today and so far, so good. I went 5 minutes without the screen refreshing on me. We'll see if it stays fixed.

MacBook Pro 13" Hard Drive and other questions

Hi there,
I've just purchased a 13" MBP which I absolutely love but have a few questions about upgrading it. I want to swap out the hard drive for a larger capacity but just want to make sure I purchase one that will fit.
I'll number the questions for ease of answering.
1. Will this hard drive be correct? I know it's a 2.5" SATA but I didn't know if the dimensions are ok for the 13" MBP.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/WD-Scorpio-Black-WD3200BJKT-internal/dp/B001FBJJQ4
2. Will the difference between a 7200rpm 16MB cache drive and a 5400rpm 8mb cache drive be noticeable? I can get a 500gb slower speed drive for the same price and while the capacity increase would be useful, I would prefer a faster drive if it's noticeable.
Many thanks

That article I believe to be incorrect! The author never mentions which Scorpio drive....Blue or Black. The Blue does not contain a free fall sensor option as the Black is available with our without free fall sensor. The free fall sensor will interfere with the Sudden Motion Sensor (SMS) built into the Mac. SMS can be disabled but my experience first hand with the Scorpio Black in my MBP 13 was not good even after disabling the SMS and merely using the free fall sensor in the Black. If you want a 7200 RPM drive and you like West Dig get the Black without the free fall sensor. You will be much happier. I run the Black in several Windows Laptops and it streams fast then the 7200.4 which I also have in a windows laptop and the scorpio black performed better and more stable! I just dont think I personal would not use it on the MBP 13...I took mine out for it was problematic!! If you want a 500 GB go with the Fujitsu or the Hitachi...even the the Western Dig Scorpio Blue with does not have a free fall sensor. The author of that article mentioned ShockGuard that is not a Free Fall sensor and only engages durring spin up or down as well as parks when it is off. This does not sense a fall like the SMS or a built in free fall sensor. Many MBP unibody owner have used the Blue and it has been hugely successful!!! My experience which is very extensive with Seagate as of late has not been favorable. I do not like the latest generation of drives they are producing we are seeing extensive failures (higher % compared to other OEMs). Stick with those three.
If you want battery life, the Fujitsu or Hitachi are very good choices Fujitsu being a little better
For speed the WD Blue is best on synthetic tests but it is a little power hungry. I am sticking with the Fujitsu in real world test it seemed to do better than the others...H2Benchw it wasnt as good. PCmark it did very well. The Gaming, Video and other test it seemed to do well on but not as good in the h2Benchw.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/mobile-hdd-notebook,2305.html
Great info!!!

EXSP24 in LE7 and other questions

I have worked out that the sampler instrument editor in LE7 has been removed which is kinda an odd upgrade from Logic Audio 6 imo. If i have this wrong please let me know.
So how do I go about adding in new instruments from sample cd's etc??
I am used to running Logic Audio 6 on my old Imac in System 9 so the new or apparent lack of Logic Folders etc is quite bizarre for me. So if anyone can also throw me some pointers on:
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2: Using Absynth within LE7
3: Will something like Kontakt run in LE7?
4: Rewiring Logic into Live or vice versa.
So many questions
Thanks
Paul

You can't edit EXSP24 instruments but you can import several formats:
Akai, Soudfonts, Giga, SampleCell and DLS.
To create your own patches you need some external apps like this:
http://www.redmatica.com/Site/Pages/KM.php
About other questions and supposing that you don't have a Intel Mac:
1. Yes, you can.
2. Logic uses plugins in Audio Unit format; if you have an older version of Absynth you should upgrade to a newer one.
3. Same as above,
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cheers
rob
Power Mac G4/533 PowerBook 12 Mac OS X (10.4.5)

Pixel Bender custom multiply blend and other questions

I am creating photo editing application on iPad and i am using Pixel Bender to calculate effects. But ive got a problem with multiply blend mode.When i run it in CPU/GPU mode, it runs fine(result looks absolutly 1:1 as from photoshop). But when i switch to Flash Player mode, it dont want to render properly. I dont get any compilation errors. Ive got also some other questions:
1.How does PB performs on iOS ?
2.If my problem is becouse of incapability of FP, is there any other solution to this ? I cant afford AS3.0 computing, becouse it is really slow even on PC.
3. Can be Pixel Bender 3D sollution to this ? If yes, when will it come out to iOS ?
4. How are filters computed in FP ? CPU or GPU ?
here, you can see the difference : http://ponozka.php5.cz/gpuMode.jpg http://ponozka.php5.cz/flashMode.jpg
Thanks
source code :
<languageVersion : 1.0;>
kernel MultiplyLayer
<   namespace : "Your Namespace";
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    version : 1;
>
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Ok, so i already know, that CPU/GPU and flash are giving different results. So lets have a situation, where you need to display transparent image without transparency. On GPU/CPU, you will need only this :
dst.r = src.r;
dst.g = src.g;
dst.b = src.b;
dst.a = 1.0;
but for flash, you will need this :
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dst.g = (1.0/src.a)*src.g;
dst.b = (1.0/src.a)*src.b;
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First kernel on GPU will show the exact same result as second kernel on flash. But the question remains : is it bug ?

E6-00: what's wrong with Belle refresh (and other ...

I've been following this forum and have always been up-to-date with E6-00 firmware. I've been almost happy with Belle and was expecting hardly the Belle refresh version for the Music player upgrade. What I got was - ? I don't know. Just the new version and no instant visible change. However... :
- the Music Player is the same. Meaning, no song search and still ridiculous user interface
- the phone tries to establish the data connection quite often even if no application is open
- the phone is hardly responsive from time to time (while looking for the network connection)
- the phone does not want to connect to the wifi. Restart helps.
- the phone loses the network operator and does not reconnect. Happened once (when roaming). Restart helps immediately.
- the Microsoft Apps: pursued upgrade. I personally do not need them. The screen is simply to small to use them effectively.
- (not a complaint) the battery life: I think the battery life is not really affected by the OS. Those complaining about shorter battery life should check how much time they spend using the phone, being connected to wifi, etc.
I'm very disappointed with the E6-00. I try to keep it positive but it keeps me down with every (new) issue. Does anyone has advice what to do with upper mentioned issues? I bought the phone ~2 months after it was available. I'm assuming that these first production series can have hardware issues? My phone was on reparation twice: for the notification light (hardware thing) and bluetooth issues (voice not heard over the bluetooth headset). The latter is still present I think...
I consider buying E71 since there's no other good (Nokia) phone on the market. What makes me sad the most is that my iPod touch does wifi connection and other things smoothlessly... But I don't want an iPhone (which is in principle the same as iPod touch), I just want a good Nokia.
Regards,
P

strelamcqueen:
I agree with your post except for the fact that Belle hosed my E6. Meaning: if you look at all my other posts, it's all about the GPS data functions that were awesome with the E71 then went away with the E6 on Anna. At least with Anna, there was an app called LeGPSData2 that restored most of the E71 GPS functionality. LeGPSData2 is not compatible with Belle. Sooo, I am currently using my E6 ONLY because of the decent camera.
Belle made the UI look pretty but that's it. I found the same problems with the responsiveness that you mentioned and issues with not connecting to my home wifi when I try to browse the net at home. There's nothing like downloading a bunch of big files only to discover that I've chewed up a bunch of data because the phone didn't connect to wifi. I put the wifi widget on one of my home screens and I make sure that I manually connect to wifi now before starting the browser. The Microsoft app via the upgrade were a joke. They actually took over Quick Office so that Excel and Word opened with MS Office Mobile. This would be fine but they open so tiny they are unreadable and they are not editable with MS Office Mobile for some reason. I removed the MS apps immediately.
My battery life suffered a lot after Belle refresh. With normal use as before the upgrade I would get home with about 50% battery with 3G ON. With Belle refresh, The battery won't make it through a full day with 3G on and I end up with about 25% battery at the end of the day with 3G off. Good thing I don't use much data through the day!
This is actually my second E6; long story but the first I upgraded to Belle and was disappointed with the loss of LeGPSData2 app. This one I was forced to upgrade to Belle refresh because while updating Ovi Maps one night, the update completely deleted the Ovi Maps app and I could not get it back without updating the OS to Belle refresh.
So I am with you. I too am very disappointed with the E6 but most of my disappointment comes from the software 'upgrades'. If Nokia would just leave well enough alone, all would be fine. I am sorry I have no advice to take care of the problems you and I are facing. I am in search of a new phone now and if I don't downgrade to an E72, I won't be getting a Nokia again. It's a sad story because I have been a die hard Nokia fan for a long time.
DS
@adrianhughes:
HUH? stelamcqueen is asking advice from other USERS. That's what the forum is about.

New Droid Turbo takes forever to load pictures on social media? ...and other questions!

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Congratulations on your new Droid Turbo. We'd love to help make sure your new phone is working properly. For the photos in Instagram and Facebook, Is it that some photos appear and others do not? How are photos in other applications or different websites? As for the Gmail sync, have you checked the settings under Gmail to ensure the sync options are set to your preference. In regards to the folders for the gallery, folders are usually created on their own and based on where pictures are created. For the Play Music, what happens when you try to play songs?
SheritaH_VZW
Follow us on Twitter @VZWSupport
If my response answered your question please click the �Correct Answer� button under my response. This ensures others can benefit from our conversation. Thanks in advance for your help with this!!

Windows File compatibility, my iPod, and other questions

After years of gripping about doing Video and Photo editing on my PC, I am considering switching to a Mac. But, given I have a heavy investment in PC hardware, I want to make sure I can leverage everything the best way possible. So...
1.) I have a 20GB clickwheel iPod...any problem using this with a Mac? Need to be reformatted or anything?
2.) Can you access ActiveX based websites without problems?
3.) I have a Windows XP machine with 4 drives in RAID format. Could I use this as a common storage network drive for both Mac and PC's at the same time (for instance, store MP3's on it, and access and play them from either the iMac and other Windows PC's without a problem?). What about jpg formatted pictures? Any nuances between PC and Mac formats? (or is jpg really just jpg on either machine...I can open up the same picture on a Mac and a PC and see the exact same picture, without major color changes, etc.).
I realize I need to reformat to FAT, but other than that, are their other problems I should know about? (I would like to use the RAID configuration to make sure I don't lose any data)
That should start for now...
Thanks - Jeff
Windows (for now) Windows XP Looking at an iMac
Windows (for now) Windows XP Looking at an iMac

1.) I have a 20GB clickwheel iPod...any problem
using this with a Mac? Need to be reformatted or
anything?
You can use it, and it will need to be reinitialised formatted for the Mac.
2.) Can you access ActiveX based websites without
problems?
No you can't access ActiveX websites with a Mac
3.) I have a Windows XP machine with 4 drives in
RAID format. Could I use this as a common storage
network drive for both Mac and PC's at the same time
(for instance, store MP3's on it, and access and play
them from either the iMac and other Windows PC's
without a problem?).
Yes
What about jpg formatted
pictures?
Yes
I realize I need to reformat to FAT,
If the computer will still be running Windows and acting as a server then no you won't need to reformat to FAT.
iFelix

Is the disk equal to log files and other questions?

In the web page http://www.oracle.com/technology/documentation/berkeley-db/je/GettingStartedGuide/introduction.html#dplfeatures, there is a statement, " The checkpointer is responsible for flushing database data to *disk* that was written to cache as the result of a transaction commit ".
I wonder if the disk here means log files under the JE home directory.
From my understanding of these documents and other web resources, the check pointer is to write records in Cache to Log files (disk), and then cleaner is to reorganize and then to remove unused log files. For the records in a Cache, they are brought from disk to Cache by querying the index organized in a B-Tree structure, and the In-Compressor is to delete some empty internal nodes of B-Tree.
I wonder if the above is right to describe relations among these components, check pointer, cleaner, B-Tree and In-Compressor.
Thanks for your help!
Best,
Jiangfan

Jiangfan Shi wrote:
I wonder if the disk here means log files under the JE home directory. Yes.
I wonder if the above is right to describe relations among these components, check pointer, cleaner, B-Tree and In-Compressor. Yes.

Crossover Settings Confusion and Other Questions

Equipment is as follows:
- LG 55-inch 55LH90 LED TV
- Denon AVR-590 A/V Receiver
- Klipsch HD 500 5.1 Speakers
- DirecTV High Def Satellite Receiver/DVR
Long story very short is that I hit a button on the receiver remote about two weeks ago, unknowingly changing the existing audio settings to something along the lines of Matrix or Direct or Stereo. I'm not one to fool with trying to customize settings on equip. like this... I usually just use the very basic functionality in controlling the equipment, as that's why I paid money 1.5 years ago to have everything professionally installed and calibrated.
Upon accidentally hitting that remote control button, my audio went to pot, was very muffled, volume was minimal, sound was hissy, etc. Sounded like I was listening to $15 speakers.
Had no idea what had happened, didn't want to fool with trying to figure it out myself, contacted the receiver manufacturer to explain what had happened, they recommended immediately that I reset the receiver and thought the processor had locked up. Did the reset and that of course unfortunately scrapped all of my custom calibration settings that the installers had configured a year and a half ago. Sound still not improved. Recommended that I send the receiver in for repair. I held off for a few days on doing that and finally found the likely cause / solution on a message board, clicked the same button on the remote that I'd likely clicked by accident a few weeks earlier, and the sound was back to a more normal level.
However, now I'm left without all of those custom calibrations via the Audyssey stuff that was erased, and I'm lost as can be as to how to get our system sounding like it did prior to all of this happening approx. 2 weeks ago.
I'm lost on the crossover frequency settings and what they should be, what the dials on the rear of the subwoofer should be set at, what the crossover settings for the front / center / rear surround speakers should be, etc.
I ran the Audyssey configuration using the supplied microphone that came with the receiver, but the resulting sound just still doesn't sound at all like it did originally after the installers did all of the setup / configuration back in Aug. 2009.
Audyssey sets the crossover levels of my front L/R speakers to 120 HZ. Audyssey sets the crossover level of my center channel to 110 Hz. Audyssey sets the crossover levels of my rear L/R surround speakers to 120 Hz. In what I seem to remember is the "bass management" area of the receiver settings, the crossover for the subwoofer is set at 80 Hz. I believe another setting for the subwoofer is LFE+Main, too.
With the above in mind, I have no idea at all (1) if the crossover values are appropriate for the various speakers and the subwoofer in the mix to distribute high/mid/low sounds appropriately between the speakers and the sub, (2) I have no idea what the "Level" knob on the rear of the subwoofer should be set to (values range from Min to Max), (3) I have no idea what the LowPass (Hz) knob on the rear of the subwoofer (ranges from 80 to 100) should be set to, and am just very confused / frustrated that with the accidental click of a button on the receiver remote 2 wks. ago and then Denon's tech support recommending the most drastic solution to this issue in resetting the receiver's processor and erasing all of the custom Audyssey settings. I'm left with very sub-par sound as a result of all of this and can't seem to get the re-run Audyssey calibration routine to get my system back to sounding as phenomenal / balanced as it did for nearly 1.5 years straight after the initial setup / calibration of everything back in Aug. 2009 by the Best Buy professional installers.
Any explanations of what the crossover settings for all of my speakers and subwoofer, knob settings on the rear of the subwoofer should be (in general, mind you, as I know all situations / environments / listening preferences are different), or any other helpful recommendations are GREATLY appreciated. I'm very frustrated that Denon's tech support didn't first have me see if I had accidentally adjusted the sound properties via the remote via an accidental button click as opposed to taking my receiver back to square one. I'm not a technical master of this stuff and have no idea what I'm doing wrong in trying to get everything back to sounding like the great system it used to sound like.
Thanks in advance for any clearly-explained suggestions / recommendations on all of this. My last resort is to contact Best Buy and pay them to come back out to re-calibrate everything themselves if I can't figure out where my calibration settings / adjustments are wrong.

As I said in my first post in your other thread "you changed a setting the receiver and speakers are fine" <- not word for word but close to what I said LOL. I knew from what you described thats what it had to be. I do have a concern about the phase issues and the distance readings but that could be placement of mic or if your speakers are facing straight out instead of being slightly faced inward. May I ask where did you place the mic and was it on a tripod? I suggest either borrowing or buying a camcorder tripod for this. I answered your questions below in blue.
Also before ever doing a reset on any piece of equipment check the internet for some ideas as it could save you a lot of headaches.
bmccollum wrote:
Okay... stayed up late last night running through the Audyssey calibration routine. Took several tries at the calibration routine, as it kept on coming back saying I had phase issues with various speakers (it bounced around between telling me the phase issues were with the Front Left, the Front Right, and the Center Channel). I just kept on re-running Audyssey until it finally ceased telling me some of the speakers had phasing issues.
Before I continue, I can't thank you enough again for reading through my posts and offering your suggestions... really do appreciate the assistance!
While I'm thinking about it, I determined why the sound qualities / volume / etc. got so poor all of a sudden about 2-3 weeks ago. I apparently accidentally hit one of the buttons on the receiver remote that changed the sound setup from whatever it had been set on forever to something like "Virtual" or "Direct" or "Stereo" or something like that, as opposed to Dolby Digital or whatever it had been set on forever. I unfortunately went through the recommended Microprocessor Reset procedure on the receiver per their tech support's recommendation & that's why I lost all of the original Audyssey calibrated settings from August 2009, when all along, I could've just resolved the audio issues if I'd known that I'd accidentally clicked a button on the receiver remote, and had known I just needed to re-click another button to get the audio back to what it was normally set on. Here are the results that were set by the Denon AVR-590 via the Audyssey calibration. Note: Before beginning the Audyssey calibration process, I had the volume level knob on the rear of the sub itself turned halfway to the 12 o'clock position, and the LowPass knob on the rear of the sub turned all the way to the right (I believe 160 was the value). I ultimately turned the volume knob on the rear of the sub to about the 10 o'clock position as I re-ran the Audyysey calibration multiple times, as the dB values being shown for the sub were coming back at - 12.0 db or close to that with the sub volume set at the 12 o'clock position. The sub dB value got closer to the desired 0 dB value (as shown below) with the sub volume knob set to the 10 o'clock position.
* Speaker Configuration Check    *
- Front Speaker                 Small
- Center Speaker              Small
- Subwoofer                       Yes
- Surround Speaker         Small
- S. Back (Preout)             None
* Distance Check                 *
- Front Left                         0.1 ft                     (this should seemingly be more like 15.0 ft) is the speaker facing slightly in
- Front Right                       1.3 ft                     (this should seemingly be more like 15.0 ft) "  it should be                             "
- Center                               14.7 ft                   (this seems accurate)
- Subwoofer                       16.3 ft                   (this seems accurate)
- Surround Left                 8.0 ft                     (this seems accurate)
- Surround Right               8.7 ft                     (this seems accurate)
* Channel Level Check            *
- Front Left                         + 12.0 dB Lower this to about 2 or 3 db below the center channel
- Center                               + 2.5 dB
- Front Right                       + 12.0 dB Lower this to about 2 or 3 db below the center channel
- Surround Right               + 2.0 dB
- Surround Left                 + 2.5 dB
- Subwoofer                       - 2.0 dB
* Crossover Frequency Check      *
- Front                                  60 Hz                    (seems low... not sure...) Set to 80 hz
- Center                               120 Hz                   (seems reasonable... not sure...)you can leave it or set it to 80 hz
- Surround                          150 Hz                   (seems high... not sure...) again leave it or set it to 120 or 80 hz
- S. Back                               None
Okay, I've made the following minor adjustments thus far post-Audyssey calibration, as noted below:
- SW Mode:                        LFE+Main set to LFE only
- LPF for LFE:                      120 Hz
- Sub Volume Knob         Left sitting around the 10-11 o'clock position on rear of sub
- LowPass Knob                                Left sitting at max setting to the right on rear of sub (I believe value is 160)
- Front Left                         15.1 ft. is now what I've set the distance chk. at manually, as opposed to 0.1 ft
- Front Right                       15.3 ft. is now what I've set the distance chk. at manually, as opposed to 1.3 ft.
So there we are... ANY additional insight you may have on any of the values I've reported to you and whether or not they seem reasonable or completely out of whack is greatly appreciated. My main concerns/questions are the various Crossover Freqency values set by Audyssey and whether or not they should likely be manually adjusted by me to better utilize/distribute the sound between the various speakers / sub, and secondly, why/how did Audyssey so incorrectly set the distance of my Front Left & Front Right speakers and was it likely wise of me to have set them to what they should be w/a new distance setting now of around 15 ft. for each of the Front Left and Front Right speakers?
Here are my questions in a nutshell now. I'm probably overanalyzing things now since having experienced this audio issue a few weeks ago and now I'm prob. hyper-sensitive to all aspects of the home theater sound I have at present.
(1) Why do commercials seem to have expanded sound using all speakers whereas just you plain ol' TV programs seem to use fewer speakers and just mainly the center channel aside from some occasional applause and such coming out of the Front Left and Front Right speakers?
The commercials are most likely broadcast in stereo instead of surround sound. The receiver will switch from dolby digital to stereo and you won't even notice it except for the sound.
(2) Why would I hit the "STD" button on the receiver remote to choose Dolby Digital vs. when
to hit the "SIMU" button on the receiver remote to select "5 Channel Stereo" or other options via that "SIMU" button?5 Channel stereo is just that, Its 2 channel stereo being output through all 5 channels. It is not 5 channel surround. Standard give you Dolby digital, Prologic II etc. Simulation gives you 5 channel stereo, Matrix, Hall and the other simulated surrounds. You want to hit the standard button.
(3) On rear of subwoofer, I've set the LowPass knob all the way to the right, assuming that the "LFE +Main" and "LPF for LFE = 120Hz" settings override the LowPass knob on the rear of the sub, therefore having that knob turned all the way to the right to allow the settings for the sub in the receiver itself to control the LowPass / Crossover stuff. Correct. As long as the sub accepts LFE signals the receiver will send anything lower than 120hz directly to the sub. If not that is why you are setting it to the highest setting.
(4) With Audyssey Crossover Frequencies set as shown above, are these reasonable/appropriate values to where all speakers are utilized properly for the equipment I have in distributing all low/mid/high frequencies appropriate between the various speakers / sub without audio drops and so forth? The Crossover Frequency stuff is probably the most confusing part of all of this to me.
Again, I can't thank you enough for your help and any additional recommendations you can make regarding my situation.

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