Broken iphone5c antenna

If I can get phone calls, email, make phone calls but, can't connect to networks, does that mean I have a broken atnenna?

No .
It probably means you an issue with the wifi software
http://www.apple.com/support/iphone/wifi/

Similar Messages

How do I fix broken airport antenna?

I have an older G5 tower, 1.8GHZ, and the airport is not working. External antenna is broken. Does anyone know how to remove the broken antenna?
< Edited by Host >

If there is any portion of the antenna body protruding out of the connector, you should be able to just pull it out. You may need to use a pair of pliers, but it should come out. If you have completely broken off the antenna and only have the connector remaining, then you might be able to pull the shell out with very small needlenose pliers, though the center conductor might be a bit of a problem.
A replacement source:
http://www.dvwarehouse.com/Apple-Airport-External-Antenna-for-Power-Mac-G5-2004- 2005--MacPro-Early-2008-A1066-922-6043---NEW-p-33986.html

Broken internal antenna!

Hi all! First time I post here :P
It's like this. I broke my internal antenna on my PowerBook G4 12" when I was going to check which airport card I had. I'm kind of.. violence of myself but anyway. I was going to check which card I had and the antenna.. Popped of the card. Or atleast I think it is the antenna.
Well, it broke and now I CAN still found the card, but no connections (:P). Am I able to reconnect the cable in some way? Because there is some metallic thing sticking out from the card and the cable is.. Loose, and it's now harder to shut that little door to the card. Well.. I think that's all I can say for now.
Here's two pic's of the thing ^_^ (Photo's taken with my mobile)
Thanks for now! I hope you are able to help me!
I can take pic's with my real digital camera if anyone wants better quality.
PowerBook G4 12" Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Welcome to the discussions
You have one of 2 choices you can either take it to an Apple store or contact Applecare, if you have it.
Or if you want to attempt it, look at the link and you will see you can unplug the connecter to the card and twist the cable and insert it and either crimp it or solder it and then re attach it.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=108039
Cheers Don

Broken airport antenna female plug?

So, my airport t-antenna's needle plug broke. I replaced it with a wire safety pin. Worked wonerfully. The wifi connection was just as good, and it was cheaper than spending $40 on a new t-antenna.
Unfortunately, today, I knocked it out accidentally and now when I place it back in it just falls out. It's loose. It doesn't hold itself in. And even when I hold it in, it doesn't pick up a signal. I have no idea what's wrong.
Is there any way I can fix it?

buy a USB WiFi adapter, make sure it is compatable with your version of OS, cheaper faster more efficient than airport.

Broken airport antenna

The internal antenna on my airport extreme card broke. would an apple store be able to fix it?

An Apple service center could fix it - and that could be arranged via your local Apple Store.

Access Point 1231

Good evening,
I am contacting you for consultation, at our facilities are mounted Access Point Model 1231 and Model 1242, which are connected to omni-directional antennas, these antennas might suffer vandalism or theft, as I learned that I have broken this antenna, there is some kind of log or alarm to tell me to my Access point that has no antenna, I put the case for both Access Point Access Point centralized and autonomous.
Thank you very much

My other one shown:
NAME: "AP1210", DESCR: "Cisco Aironet 1200 Series Access Point"
PID: AIR-AP1231G-E-K9    , VID: B0 , SN: FCZ0906Z0AK
cisco AIR-AP1231G-E-K9     (PowerPC405GP) processor (revision B0) with 15138K/1236K bytes of memory.
Processor board ID FOC09030GAC
PowerPC405GP CPU at 196Mhz, revision number 0x0145
Last reset from power-on
1 FastEthernet interface
1 802.11 Radio(s)
32K bytes of flash-simulated non-volatile configuration memory.
Base ethernet MAC Address: 00:13:1A:22:B7:9F
Part Number                          : 73-8704-08
PCA Assembly Number                  : 800-23211-09
PCA Revision Number                  : A0
PCB Serial Number                    : FOC09030GAC
Top Assembly Part Number             : 800-23304-08
Top Assembly Serial Number           : FCZ0906Z0AK
Top Revision Number                  : A0
Product/Model Number                 : AIR-AP1231G-E-K9
Configuration register is 0xF
Can Fix this, to correct use?
thanks
R. Kuhn

WRT 55 AG Broken Antenna

Our WRT55AG has a broken antenna. The break is internal. Someone (cough cough) tried to unscrew the antenna without realising that they don't unscrew and I fear that it is broken internally.We have lost the A channel for my sons xbox 360. It is out of warranty. I though I might try to repair it myself by dismantling the unit but cannot see any screws. Any ideas?
Message Edited by Bibliophile on 03-07-2008 07:37 PM

Thanks. We figured it out. Its fixed now

Is my antenna broken?

My Ipad 2 has worked fine for a long time even after upgrading to ios6; but one day it did not work further than 5 feet from the wireless router. My Iphones work no problem. What can I do?

Some things to try first:
1. Turn Off your iPad. Then turn Off (disconnect power cord for 30 seconds or longer) the wireless router & then back On. Now boot your iPad. Hopefully it will see the WiFi.
2. Go to Settings>Wi-Fi and turn Off. Then while at Settings>Wi-Fi, turn back On and chose a Network.
3. Change the channel on your wireless router (Auto or Channel 6 is best). Instructions at http://macintoshhowto.com/advanced/how-to-get-a-good-range-on-your-wireless-netw ork.html
4. Go into your router security settings and change from WEP to WPA with AES.
5. Renew IP Address: (especially if you are droping internet connection)
    •    Launch Settings app
    •    Tap on Wi-Fi
    •    Tap on the blue arrow of the Wi-Fi network that you connect to from the list
    •    In the window that opens, tap on the Renew Lease button
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
iOS 6 Wifi Problems/Fixes
How To: Workaround iPad Wi-Fi Issues
http://www.theipadfan.com/workaround-ipad-wifi-issues/
Another Fix For iOS 6 WiFi Problems
http://tabletcrunch.com/2012/10/27/fix-ios-6-wifi-problems-ssid/
Wifi Doesn't Connect After Waking From Sleep - Sometimes increasing screen brightness prevents the failure to reconnect after waking from sleep. According to Apple, “If brightness is at lowest level, increase it by moving the slider to the right and set auto brightness to off.”
Fix For iOS 6 WiFi Problems?
http://tabletcrunch.com/2012/09/27/fix-ios-6-wifi-problems/
Did iOS 6 Screw Your Wi-Fi? Here’s How to Fix It
http://gizmodo.com/5944761/does-ios-6-have-a-wi+fi-bug
How To Fix Wi-Fi Connectivity Issue After Upgrading To iOS 6
http://www.iphonehacks.com/2012/09/fix-wi-fi-connectivity-issue-after-upgrading- to-ios-6.html
iOS 6 iPad 3 wi-fi "connection fix" for netgear router
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XsWS4ha-dn0
Apple's iOS 6 Wi-Fi problems
http://www.zdnet.com/apples-ios-6-wi-fi-problems-linger-on-7000004799/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
How to Fix a Poor Wi-Fi Signal on Your iPad
http://ipad.about.com/od/iPad_Troubleshooting/a/How-To-Fix-A-Poor-Wi-Fi-Signal-O n-Your-iPad.htm
iOS Troubleshooting Wi-Fi networks and connections http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1398
iPad: Issues connecting to Wi-Fi networks http://support.apple.com/kb/ts3304
WiFi Connecting/Troubleshooting http://www.apple.com/support/ipad/wifi/
How to Fix: My iPad Won't Connect to WiFi
http://ipad.about.com/od/iPad_Troubleshooting/ss/How-To-Fix-My-Ipad-Wont-Connect -To-Wi-Fi.htm
iOS: Connecting to the Internet http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1695
iOS: Recommended settings for Wi-Fi routers and access points http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4199
How to Quickly Fix iPad 3 Wi-Fi Reception Problems
http://osxdaily.com/2012/03/21/fix-new-ipad-3-wi-fi-reception-problems/
iPad Wi-Fi Problems: Comprehensive List of Fixes
http://appletoolbox.com/2010/04/ipad-wi-fi-problems-comprehensive-list-of-fixes/
Connect iPad to Wi-Fi (with troubleshooting info)
http://thehowto.wikidot.com/wifi-connect-ipad
Fix iPad Wifi Connection and Signal Issues http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwWtIG5jUxE
Fix Slow WiFi Issue https://discussions.apple.com/thread/2398063?start=60&tstart=0
How To Fix iPhone, iPad, iPod Touch Wi-Fi Connectivity Issue http://tinyurl.com/7nvxbmz
Unable to Connect After iOS Update - saw this solution on another post.
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4010130
Note - When troubleshooting wifi connection problems, don't hold your iPad by hand. There have been a few reports that holding the iPad by hand, seems to attenuate the wifi signal.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If any of the above solutions work, please post back what solved your problem. It will help others with the same problem.
 Cheers, Tom

Wi-Fi: no hardware installed. Caused by the antenna position?

I own an early 2011 MBP 15” with ML 10.8.3, suffering from the well known problem of Airport WiFi (hardware not installed). BT is perfectly working.
I would like to share my thoughts on the (low) probability of fixing this issue.
That’s my story, till now.
I unsuccessfully attempted the usual remedies, such as the SMC and NVRAM reset.
Since my Mac is still covered by the AppleCare, I contacted the online support. Again, unsuccessful SMC and NVRAM reset. The support personnel told me it is a hardware problem. This sentence “slightly” worried me, and the rest of the story confirmed my darkest concerns.
I contacted an Apple technical assistance center for fixing the problem. 2 days later, they gave me my MBP back, after the flat (ribbon) cable substitution. We tested together the WiFi in the Apple center: no problem at all. Unfortunately, once back in my office, at first startup the WiFi again refused to run (and still it refuses now, ab. 24 hrs after the repair attemp).
Now, I’m working with a mini-dongle, a solution not properly fitting with a 2000 US$ Mac, bought for professional use. I’ll go back to the technical assistance again, but w/o much hope. The reason of my pessimistic thought arises from an idea I have on the WiFi antenna position inside the Mac.
I’ve never dismantled a MacBook Pro, but I learnt that the WiFi antenna is placed in a very strange location, that is: practically INSIDE THE MONITOR HINGE (is it true?)
This is a very delicate place for any notebook, because it is … mobile.
Yes, it seems that the antenna (mobile, in the monitor hinge) is connected to the motherboard (fixed, in the aluminum case) with a flat ribbon, and it rotates with the monitor. That is, every time we open or close the MBP (let's say, for instance 2-4 times/day?)
And now, that’s my concern.
The movement involves a mechanical action on plugs and pins, with possible and subtle deformation of such pins, plugs and their supports. Again, that location is subject to heating up and, then, to possible thermal action combined with mechanical ones. That could mean that, very rarely and with erratic and random evidence, the WiFi antenna can loose its connection, plugs may slip off, perhaps for the monitor movement as well as for small tolerances in production and/or assembly steps (in my opinion may be matter of microns).
This could explain the erratic results of the repairs. Erratic means ranging from complete success to temporary stops or recovery, without any predictable behavior.
And now… HOLD ON TIGHT !
If my hypothesis is correct (doubt is mandatory), the problem may be CAUSED BY THE DESIGN CONCEPT of the MBP, concerning the WiFi location. This may have a direct influence on the erratic results of the technical assistance work, reported in many forums. Then, it is very difficult to foresee the problem will be 100% definitely fixed by the ordinary technical assistance. To tell all the truth, if I’m right (doubt is mandatory), a well lowest score may be regarded a first class result in these conditions.
On the other hand, placing the airport (WiFi antenna) inside the metal (aluminum) case, may also have its operating, and even worse, drawbacks.
I want to point out that I’m not complaining about the Apple support and technical assistance, both friendly and skilled, and I’m not blaming the Apple design department.
However, I’ve a few consultancy experiences about operating and safety problems reported in electric and electronic consumer products. In many cases, sneaky and subtle problems were due to particular design choices, correct for “almost” 100% of equipment. Almost means: random problems for a number of equipment with NO STATISTICAL RELEVANCE. And this may be a problem for us, “poor consumers” when facing the producer. No statistical relevance can mean: problem not recognized by the producer. This is just to be realistic. Continuous improvement is required from Apple, in any case.
Last but not least, this is an useful video on MBP WiFi:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UsSIUs7jzQc
PS: I’m writing from Rome - Italy

Sorry for the late reply. I had a bad experience with the Apple Store and the 'Genius' Bar where I live. However, in the end, I received my MacBook Pro back from repair and everything is working.
Like I said in my previous post, the first time the Wi-Fi broke, I was using Lion. The mother (Logic) board was replaced as well as the Wi-Fi card.
The second time it broke, I was using Mountain Lion. Booting up the Recovery partition and Snow Leopard (new install) did not solve the issue. The Apple Store confirmed that the Wi-Fi card was broken through various testing, which I observed.
Since the attenna wires for the Wi-Fi run through the display, we decided the next logical step was to replace the Wi-Fi card and the display. The reasoning is that there could have been a short or cross connection in the attenna wiring that was causing the Wi-Fi cards to short-out/burn-out. The Bluetooth continued to work in both cases the Wi-Fi failed, meaning that it was unlikely a cable problem.
Since the display and wi-fi have been replaced (20121025), I've had no problems. The wi-fi card is working.
I'm glad the kext file solution has worked for you. I've seen posts on this solution; however, after determining that this was indeed a hardware failure (by using Recovery console, booting from Snow Leopard, and using Hardware Troubleshooter (it didn't even see the Wi-Fi) ), I didn't bother with fiddling with the kext (driver) files. Besides, this hardware is supposed to be designed to work with the OS without any problems whatsoever. Shame on Apple if they don't ship proper drivers for their hardware!
TeaKae

IPad 30-pin Port Seemingly Broken; Unexportable Data must be Backed Up

Hello everyone. I come here in desperation. My iPad's 30-pin port recently decided to stop functioning properly:
1) When plugged into a "dumb" power source like a USB/AC block it does the "Not Charging" message, even on power sources it never used to do this on. And on these it charges dreadfully slow, like less than 10% recovery in an hour of sleep mode in Airplane mode. If you try to use it while charging in this manner it experiences a significant net loss instead of net gain in power. I repeat, this happens on power sources I've used it with since iOS 4.2 and that it didn't happen with before.
2) When connected to: Mac OS X, Windows 7, Windows XP (different machine), with iTunes of any version it refuses to acknowledge the connection at all. If the iPad is off when it's connected it will start up, but it won't show up in iTunes and doesn't show ANY sign of charging, not even "Not Charging", and the battery icon does not show it to be charging. Even in Recovery mode it will not show up in iTunes at all, no does it show up in System profiler as a connected USB device.
3) Despite these not working, the port is not entirely dead, because it still happily does TV out like normal, albiet with the "Not Charging" message if I have the AV Cable thing plugged into AC.
I've tried wiggling the plugs, holding them at odd angles, tried two different USB cables (and verified both by successfully syncing my iPod Touch with them), different computers, etc.
Unfortunately the big problem here is that I have significant unexportable data on the device right now that is mission critical to some things I need done by Monday. This data cannot be lost, and my most recent backup is insufficient for restoring what I need.
So, I was wondering, is this problem due to damaged pins (I have examined them under a magnifying glass, and I swear they look pristine) or is the port controller fried? What can I do to fix this?
Other Info:
This is my SECOND iPad, the first one got stuck in "Connect to iTunes" mode a few months ago due to some sort of hardware issue.
I got my first iPad 5 months ago, so this might be my second replacement in 5 months. Unacceptable, Apple.
There is a small crack in the plastic Antenna hood, near the corner, (I walked into a wooden door, which was satisfyingly dented from the incident too) but that's on the other side of the device form my problem, and Syncing worked for weeks after that happened. So I'm also worried the Apple people will give me trouble about that and refuse a replacement.
The only thing I can possibly imagine having caused the problem is a "nasty" disconnect at one point, where the cable was disconnected form the port in a not so clean way. This would make me think "broken pins" but like I said, I spent about half an hour staring at all 30 of them, and they all look perfect.
So it's under warranty and I could probably get a replacement, but I NEED so unexportable data from it, and thus a backup and sync before I can do that.
Please help.

jorlick wrote:
I'm not sure what that reply has to do with this post,
The thread is about exporting data that wasn't back up when the port no longer works, possibly because it was damaged by an impact. If people backed up their data regularly, this would not be the emergency problem the OP had.
But, no, charging port problems are not all that common. Three people have posted to this thread with problems in three years. The OP admits that there was possible damage to their device. No one else has provided enough details to judge what the actual problem might be.

Dv6-1040ed: Broken connector dvb-t receiver

When using my laptop to watch tv my 6 year old sun tripped over the antennacable. Now both the connector in the computer and on the antenna are broken. Since there is no warranty left on my computer I would like to repair these.
I will have to replace the cable in the computer as well as the antenna(connector). Fixing them with new connectors is no option without the proper tools. I tried.
Does HP supply these parts or do I have to look for them elsewhere?
The internal cable is a 10" ipex to mcx straight male cable and the antennaconnector is an mcx straight female (both probably especially manufactured for this laptop).
I live in the Netherlands.
Does anyone know where and how I can buy HP spareparts?
Rob

@RobRommens,
The Part No. for your notebook is NG748EA. If you go to HP PartSurfer, choose your Country and then enter the Part No. you should get a list of all parts available to purchase.
Regards,
DP-K
****Click the White thumb to say thanks****
****Please mark Accept As Solution if it solves your problem****
****I don't work for HP****
Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience

Airport antenna -second gen iMac-G5

I am unable to locate where the antenna wire is located on a second gen iMac-G5 -20" 2.0 Ghz M9845LL/A. There is no separate airport card in this model ?
I am having difficulty with signal level so I thought it might be ralted to loose
antenna connection .

I think I have the same problem with a friends iMac G5 with ambient light sensor. 17 model. The motherboard looks nothing like the ones on the manuals. I think the airport card is part of the motherboard. So the airport card is broken, thus causing kernel panicks. You can boot in safe boot mode and it works fine since it disables airport.
So now people who own these machines with built in cards are screwed. They can't just replace the extreme card with another one. You'll need to replace the logic board. You can't add a USB wireless card because you can't remove the built in airport card to get rid of it. So what do they do now?

PB G4 65W poweradapter broken, how to open it?

Hi all,
The cable running from the poweradapter/charger (model no A1021, 65Watts) to my PB G4/800 has frayed where it leaves the poweradapter/charger cabinet, thus rendering the adapter/charger unserviceable.
I dislike throwing it into the bin, not for the money but for the sake of the environment. I am willing to give it a repair go, just cut off about, say, an inch and resolder the cable to the PCB. However, I cannot figure out how to open i.e. take apart the cabinet.
Anyone any hints how-to? Or is this one of those devices for which holds: opening means breaking?
Thanks for cooperation.
Sincere greetings from continental Europe,
Feike L Hoogenbos
iMac 20"-G5-iSight + PBG4/800 Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Hello eww and all of you out there.
For eww: thanks for your reply.
About: “How to take apart the PB G4 65W poweradapter.”
I tried and it turned into a nitty-gritty enterprise.
I do not encourage anybody to go down this path, but if you insist, without modellers’ skills and gear, you end up with an adapter that is definitely beyond repair.
On the other hand, unserviceable it already was, so who cares?
In short:
You cannot: the white soap-box like poweradapters for Al, Ti PBks and (some) G4 iBooks, were (probably) never designed with any kind of ‘take-apart’ in mind, in other words: opening indeed equals breaking.
It is held together by several glued ‘males/females” (like the two fuselage halves in a Revell or Monogram model aeroplane or boat kit, remember that?), about half a meter or two feet of single-sided sticky tape and 20 cm’s or 8 inches double-sided sticky tape and about 15 grams or half an once of silicon-putty, the same kind of stuff you will find as a sealant where your bathtub meets the surrounding tiles.
The longer story, and remember, I started this all in with the intention (or assumption if you wish) it could be done in a reversible way. How wrong that turned out to be.....
To open the white box, I used a small-teethed saw-blade, only the blade!
Method: Sway the adapter’s feet out, clamp the adapter in a vice, claws covered with rubber sheet.
I carefully sawed in the ‘equatorial’ grooves. Hence the small-teethed saw-blade.
Look often how ‘deep’ you have sawed, stop when still the thickness of, say, a sheet of paper is left. Sounds difficult, but it is not, you will slowly see copper and aluminium colours appear.
You cannot saw in the groove at the side where the feet hinge and the cord leading to the PB, leaves the box. Deal with that later.
Okay, I had three equatorial grooves sawed out and yes, I could feel some ‘movement’.
By repeatedly sliding and prying a wooden wedge through the sawgrooves and twisting the halves realtive to each other I managed to get some more movement. That all makes quite unpleasant sounds.
After carrying on like this for about a minute or twenty, suddenly the two halves popped apart with a very nasty ‘tschack’ sound: two male/females broken and the two feet came apart.
Oh dear, I had disrupted the bond between one side of a two-sided piece of sticky-tape and the upper housing (that caused the ‘tschack’ sound). To the other sticky side: a piece of aluminium sheet (0.4mm or 0.015 inch thick).
That piece of aluminium sheet on its turn had a rectangular opening in it through which a larger piece of copper sheet (0.45mm or 0.017inch thick) could be seen.
The aluminium and coppersheets were connected in a somewhat strange way: partly electrically isolated by sticky-tape and silicon putty and partly electrically conducting, i.e. metal on metal contact.
The copper sheet appeared to be U-shaped, the electronics ‘wrapped’ inside.
As far as the lower housing concernes: the aluminium/copper contraption repeated or mirrored itself more or less.
Metal sheet(s) as thin as decribed and bonded to whatever by two-sided sticky tape and/or whatever sticky putty, any attempt to separate those without damage will be futile. No, you wouldn’t leave it overnight in a bowl filled with something like white-spirit, since that will definitely harm the electronics.
There I was: with wrinkled and bend aluminium and copper sheets and hundreds of silicon-putty chips around the place. But the adapter had been opened!
I started to wonder why the adapter looked like it looked.
I think the aluminium/copper sheeting serves as a heatsink and doubles as electromagnetic shielding, hence the somewhat strange looking conducting/non-conducting sandwich and cut-outs in the aluminium sheets. Eddy currents and so forth.
The adapter is of the switch-mode powersupply type and the mains transformer is a pot-core. This hints towards a quite high switching frequency, say something like 100kHz. It needs to be that high in order to convert 65Watts in such a small box without ending in a disaster.
This means, the apater is also a potential 65Watt jamming station - be it without a properly tuned antenna - hence the elaborate shielding with copper and aluminium sheets and strategically placed cut-outs, conducting and non-conducting spots.
I succeeded in taking the frayed cord out, again, not really easy, since room is at a premium in the adapter, but it can be done.
Next surprise: the cord between the adapter and the PB -a piece of coaxial cable by the way- carries only two conductors: a plus and a minus (an up and a down or how you wish to label it).
Will I be able to put it all back together again?
Eh, NO!
Ironing out the wrinkles in the copper an aluminium sheets, forget it.
With the wrinkles the whole assembly will be too thick to fit (cram?) into the the two halves of the soapbox.
And for those who think the whole thing could be glued together with epoxy, the silicon-putty residues are all over the box, so the epoxy or any other glue for that matter, will not stick.
It is as simple as that.
However, I learned a lot from this.
With sincere greetings from continental Europa,
Feike L Hoogenbos

Aironet 1310 Antenna question

Hello,
ive got a question about the antenna of the aironet 1310. is there any difference between AIR-BR1310G-E-K9 and AIR-BR1310G-E-K9-R in basic configuration?
we had a bridge between 2 AIR-BR1310G-E-K9. but the non-root bridge went broken due its age. (connector pin was broken and couldnt get it out)
we had an AIR-BR1310G-E-K9-R on spare, so we only replaced the antenna but we coulnd not get a connection between the 2. diddnt change to power injector or config.
after som fiddling with the broken antenna we managed to get the pin out. changed the wire between the antenna and power injector and placed it back. and it worked like a charm.
so does anyone has an awnser for me? add 2 pictures. the only difference i can see are the 2 extra ports on the K9-R.
AIR-BR1310G-E-K9
http://i50.tinypic.com/uy4bn.jpg
AIR-BR1310G-E-K9-R
http://i49.tinypic.com/fwlfzo.jpg

The 'R' at the end is supposed to specify that it's the model with RP-TNC connectors for an external antenna. The model without the R should have an internal antenna.
http://www.cisco.com/en/US/prod/collateral/wireless/ps5679/ps5861/product_data_sheet09186a008022198b.html

I need to fix broken screen iphone 5c

I bought iphone5c from apple store and i got item from singapore
But now i took that fail my screen broken
I found aasp in thailand and called to fix problem
But can't to fix of them one way i must swap new item
But i won't to do that
I neew to fix screen i can do by apple store in singapore right ?
If i can please tell me how can i do ?
Help me please thanks
Sent detail to me ********
<Personal Information Edited by Host>

Hey Nuttakarn.f!
This page is the portal for starting a repair request for this issue, and it will provide you with some useful information regarding this:
iPhone Screen Damage Repair - Apple Support
http://www.apple.com/support/iphone/repair/screen-damage/
Take care, and thanks for visiting the Apple Support Communities.
-Braden

Broken iphone5c antenna

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for