Broken MSI 3870 OC by some new driver [Catalyst 9.10] [Solved]

Hi all, Well the videocard was fried, I did a look at it and I don't know what is broken but it just doesnt work anymore.
I finished buying a new videocard.

Quote from: belhot92 on 02-November-09, 07:01:10
I've bought this videocard like an year ago and till the moment it was working ok.
One year later when I went to install the Ati catalyst drivers 9.10 as all the drivers you download for the vga must be from the ati website (because they have the most updated drivers to day and bla bla bla..) I found out the other day, after shutting the computer down that I had no post screen and no boot screen
When I put the computer on I just received 11 beeps and no boot..
I installed a normal Pci video card and the computer started up with no problems.
I still can't believe it got broken by some catalyst drivers..
I think that that can be RMA'd as a driver broke my card.
The driver wasn't even beta..
It was a new driver like when most of the new drivers come out.
This is simply a coincidence. Whether you updated the driver or not - your card was going to die.
I think your PSU would run a 5770. I'm not sure of the exact figures, however.

Similar Messages

Need help Msi 7900gtx - artifact found in new driver

I have the latest model card Msi 7900gtx that has that monkey game and hdcp *or whatever extra feature that was*
before latest driver no problem
now installed latest driver no problem.
but when i stated up Battlefield 2 the game started then crashed to desktop. THEN *for the second time* it showed this pink line the left of my monitor. It went straight from top to bottom and it would not go away.
The first time this happend was 2 months ago, after that my graphics card started to sparkle *like fireworks sparklers* then shut down my pc*.
Anyone know what might be the problem?
I uninstalled the game and the driver at the same time restarted computer and it is gone. strange aye but would like to know as i aint gonna loose another graphics card lol and wait another 2 months for replacement *send to supplier, they do rma send to taiwan from new zealand so on so on*
thanks
update: the new driver was date march this year, I rolled back february driver and no more pink line on side screen. Installed BF2 again works fine.
has anyone had any kind of probs like this with this march driver?
haven't OC'ed anything either

If the problem went away after using different drivers, common logic suggests to me that that driver release was somehow incompatable. That sort of thing happens.
Stick with what works and/or try a newer release. Sometimes you have to sample a few drivers to get the best results.
Did you check the event viewer after the shutdown?
When you say "shutdown" can you be more specific of the event? Did it just shutdown with no intervention by you? Like a power cut?
Or was it a restart or blue screen?
Do you have the setting: Control Panel > System----"Advanced Tab" > Startup and Recovery > Settings..Look under "System Failure" for the selection "Automatically Restart" if that box is checked, you will not be presented with Blue Screen information. Uncheck that box so the system does not restart and will present a Blue Screen with pertinent information..

How to add a new drive to my server

I have an HP ProLiant ML350 G6, in the front HDD rack i have some unused slots and i would like to fill them up with some new drives. How do i do that? I don't have a "cage" where to put a standard 3.5" drive, so i wonder if i need to buy the whole cage+drive package.
Also, can i organize the drives in any way i want, making more than one RAID volume with a single rack and a single raid card? i guess yes, but i want to be sure, and asking is free
thank you
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Hi,
This is the HP Consumer forum and we don't deal with servers and Linux.
HP doesn’t have an official presence on this forum other than for administration and moderation. The assistance that you receive is mainly from volunteers.
You might get better assistance on the HP Enterprise Business Forum since you have a business class PC.
However, these manuals may be helpful.
HP DV9700, t9300, Nvidia 8600, 4GB, Crucial C300 128GB SSD
HP Photosmart Premium C309G, HP Photosmart 6520
HP Touchpad, HP Chromebook 11
Custom i7-4770k,Z-87, 8GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650,GTX 760
Custom i7-4790k,Z-97, 16GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Plextor M.2 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650, GTX 660TI
Windows 7/8 UEFI/Legacy mode, MBR/GPT

Old Toshiba Satellite with broken CD-Rom now needs a new hard drive to reinstall OS and drivers

I have a very old Toshiba laptop with an unworking Cd/DVD drive. Recently the internal HDD crashed and is unrepairable due to a broken hardware issue. I purchased a new Internal HDD and installed it then attempted to reinstall from the recovery disk using an external DVD drive. This did not work as the computer forces me to utilize the onboard CD/DVD drive. Besides the original HDD crashing after 5 years of use this is still a pretty good laptop which is why I would like to find a way to fix it. If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate it very much.
As an aside I do have a SATA USB cord and if it is possible I might be able to utilize it and the disk to install/recover the new drive and then install it this way however I don't know if this will work. Thanks.

The new Toshiba laptops will allow you to run the Recovery from the USB ports, with either a flash drive or an external DVD drive. Unfortunately, the old Toshibas don't have that option. Your best choice is to replace the broken DVD/CD drive. After that you should be able to run the Recovery and start again.

Lightroom 4 will not move some folders to new drive

Following several online tutorials, I successfully moved most of my Lightroom photos from one external drive which was nearly full to a new 1 TB drive. However, 95 photos out of over 16,000 would not move. I figured out it was because I had originally copied them to the old drive from a CD and the permissions were read only. So I went into Finder-Get Info and changed the permissions on all 95 files to read and write. Now, however, Lightroom will not transfer the folders containing the files to the new drive. It says "A Folder Named . . . already exists at this location." However, the folder doesn't show up in Lightroom. Lightroom did create the folder, and it shows in Finder, but it does not show in the LR catalog and I can't import files into it. What now?
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Alan

Thanks for the suggestion. I tried this. The folders do exist in the new location, but they are empty. I deleted the empty folders in Finder, then went back to LR 4 and tried to import the folders into the new drive. This time LR gave me an "Unknown error" message, which is terminally unhelpful. Same thing ("Unknown error") when I tried to just grab the images and import them into a folder on the new drive.

Should I use MSI's or Intel's chipset driver with a G31M3-L V2 motherboard?

I just purchased an MSI G31M3-L V2 motherboard, bundled with an Intel E5200 CPU from Fry’s Electronics, and I plan to build a computer with the other parts (listed below in the signature) that I already have.
This will be only my second build so I was doing some research to see that I do it right. One thing I wanted to make sure about was the proper order for installing drivers since that appears to be important.
All seem to agree that the first driver to be installed after the basic Windows installation is the chipset driver. Some even say that the chipset driver should be installed before even installing Windows patches, updates and service packs. Others say to complete the Windows installation first, but all agree that the chipset driver should be the first driver. Ok, so far so good.
There is a driver on the MSI web site labeled “Intel INF Drivers for 945/955/965/975/Q3x/P3x/G3x/X3x Chipsets.” It has a version number of 8.3.0.1013 and an update date of 2008-01-16.
Well that’s great, but in my internet travels today I also came across a chipset driver on the Intel web site which also seems to be for the G31 chipset. It is labeled “INF Update Utility – Primarily for Intel 4, 3, 900 Series Chipsets.” It has a version number of 9.0.0.1008 and a date of 8/2/2008. A look into the release notes for this item indicates that it is for Windows XP and the G31 Express chip set, among others.
Well, of course, my first impulse is to use the Intel supplied driver since it has a higher version number and a later release date, so it must be the better driver, right?
Then I got to thinking: why wouldn’t MSI have this, apparently, newer chipset driver on its web site? Is it possible that I would be better off with the, apparently, older driver on the MSI site? Is it possible, perhaps, that MSI may have made changes to the driver they offer that makes it better for an MSI board than the, apparently, newer Intel driver? Now I don’t know what to think!
So which should I use, the version 8 driver from MSI or the version 9 driver from Intel?

I am building a computer with the parts listed below, but I thought that since the MSI G31M3-L V2 motherboard has on board video, and sound, it might be simpler to start out with that and add my video, and sound, cards later. Of course this means I will have to install the Intel VGA driver and the Realtek audio driver and then add the nVIDIA and Creative drivers when I add those parts.
On the one hand it seems like to get the computer up and stable first and then add in other parts later would be a good idea but on the other hand everyone seems to suggest that the graphics driver should pretty much be the next one installed after the chipset driver, so If I wait to add the nVIDIA card later I’m not really following this guideline.
What do you experienced system builders do in a similar situation, put everything in all at once or start out with the on board stuff first and add the cards in later?

Moving Pictures to new drive- XP MC/LR 1.1

What if I want to move the photos that have been imported at their location?
IOW, I am on Windows XP MC, I have imported lots of photos (7000+) and have either brought them from their location in
{c:\documents and settings\.....}
...My Documents\My Pictures\2007\0607\Fishing Trip (e.g.)
into LR WITHOUT relocating them into the library.....that is, I left the photos where they were and imported them.....+or+ I imported from a memory card and moved them to a new location inside of My Pictures. I have added keywords, ratings, devlop settings etc.
Now, as I struggle to keep free space on my 250GB drive, I am thinking of relocating all my data including pictures onto a 750GB My Book USB 2.0 drive I bought at Best Buy over the weekend for ~$190. Or may be to a new SATA internal drive...
What do I tell LR? IOW, if I just go ahead and do this in windows, all the files LR is pointing at in its catalog will be gone or broken links- missing photos or whatever.
Do I move them in LR's folders hierarchy itself- I can't imagine- plus most of my 40,000+ images aren't even known to LR.
I'm sure there must be some way to do this properly.....may be exporting a catalog and colocating it with the pics or....??? Stumped.
Some of this seems to be addressed here,
http://kb.adobe.com/selfservice/view...3736&sliceId=2
....but it's not entirely clear to me and looks like there is much to lose in doing this....may be keywords, collection info etc.
I understand for all my Nikon NEF files the idea of writing the XMP sidecars, but do I have to reimport all the files again when I move them? Will the XMP files have the keywords, ratings etc? I'm still not sure this even answers my request in that I want to move my whole library and all my images to a new hard drive- not burn them to CD/DVD as suggested in the article.

I am not at my PC with lightroom on at the moment so this may be a bit vague. But here goes.
Create a directory where you want your photos to reside. ( this should be the base directory which will hold all your photos.) I am guessing in your case it would be (new drive\My Photos).
place a single photo into the directory.
import the photo into lightroom.
In the folder view you will now see this directory. You should be able to move your existing directories into this folder inside lightroom. e.g. You should hopefully be able to see the directory 2007, which you can just move.
If you can not see you base directories (2007) there is a trick which allows you to see them in the folder view but I have not got the details on me at the moment. Someone else may point you at the trick. Or just place an image in that directory and import it.
Hope this helps.
Niall

MSI K8T Neo2 issue with SATA drives....

I have a K8T Neo2 motherboard, with a 3700+ San Diego core, running Windows XP Service Pack 2. I don't have the version with the Promise SATA Raid - using the VIA SATA RAID. I am using the latest BIOS (according to the Live Monitor).
The machine was set up (the OS installed) on an IDE 40 gig drive. All was fine, but I noticed that my machine lagged at times (mostly games, under heavy disk load) so I decided to get a couple of Seagate 250 gig drives (they have NCQ, which I know is not supported by this MB, but they were on sale, and I'd read that the drive should still work ok).
I attached the drives, and enabled SATA in the bios. The machine boots fine. I created a single 500 gig striped array using the two new drives. Windows XP sees the array fine, but that I have to initialize it.
Every time I initialize it I get an error that says, "An error has occured" and tells me to check the event log (nothing there), and to either restart the Disk Manager or reboot my computer. The OS actually locks up a few times when I'm doing this (the mouse-cursor freezes).
I've tried using the disks as two single disks, same error (and it reported that they were only 137 gig each, though apparently it's a registry issue, and I used a util to change that setting, but I haven't tested to see if it changed anything.).
I got the latest VIA SATA drives from the MSI site, and installed them (though honestly, WindowsXP saw the card and the drives just fine). One weird thing is that the VIA SATA RAID is listed under SCSI devices in the Device Manager - there is no SATA category in there.
I'm at a loss here. I've searched the web, and this forum, without luck.
Any advice would be appreciated.
*Edit* I just unplugged two IDE disk drives from the computer, and when I started it up again, it found a Promise SATA Raid controller. I thought that wasn't included with the basic version of the board?
David.

Ok - thanks - I read through the stickies and updated my bios tonight to 9.20 (the latest).
Had some dry-mouth moments when WindowsXP decided to "discover" every piece of hardware I had, right down to the mouse, and again when core-center rebooted my computer.
Also, there was some time where my memory (OCZ 2-3-3-6 DDR3200) was being set to CAS2.5, which was kind of weird, but it fixed itself.
Unfort, I am unable to increase my FSB/HTT speed past about 205 before my computer does a reboot.
I have an ATI video card (X800 Plat Ed), and I'd read that some other people had issues with ATI card and the AGP-lock, so I got the CG-ICS950405 clock-gen, and it does state that my AGP is running at 66 (and PCI 33).
Going to bump up my settings via clockgen as soon as I post this (want to post before it potentially crashes).
Should I roll back to the 9.10 bios? Not a lot of discussion on the 9.2, and I'm wondering if it causes some issues.
Thanks again for all the help and info. I used to have a firm grasp on all the components of a system, way back in the P3 days, but things have changed quite a bit...
**EDIT**
Seems to be a Core-Center issue. Used ClockGen to o/c to 2600, with temp nice and low. Will run like this for a bit. Does Core-Center work with a 9.X bios?
I think all my problems are solved - copied a wack of files to my SATA drives, and there were no issues. I won't trust Live Monitor again for drivers or bios - it's still stuck way back at 3.30.
I'll pass the info I've learned off whenever I can.
Comments and criticisms welcome.
David.
Quote from: Puppetman on 26-September-05, 23:23:42
I looked at the motherboard page - they recommend 3.30 unless you have having issues (which I kind of guess I am). Funny that Live Monitor won't pick up those BIOS changes - wonder what else I'm missing.
So 9.1 fixes the AGP/HTT overclocking issue?
The stickies are great - thanks.
David.

Disk utility reports "Device could not be opened" - error when trying to format a new drive in a Mac Pro 1,1

MacPro 1,1 Quadcore 3 GHz (2006 "Woodcrest")
32 GB RAM
ATI Radeon HD 5770
OS X 10.7.5 Lion
I have encountered the following behavior when trying to format a new drive with disk utility. This description has also been send via the Mac Pro feedback as a bug report to Apple.
On searching the web and forums with this particular error message and behaviour I could not find any usful results. So maybe the following description may be helpful for some users.
Best regards.
1. Drive Bay 1 contains the original 250 GB Startupdisk. It works without errors.
2. Drive Bays 3 and 4 contain each a WD Caviar Black 2 TB SATA 3 HDD. They work without errors.
3. I have purchased a third WD Caviar Black 2 TB HDD.
4. In Drive Bay 2 there has been a Seagate 750 GB HDD, which worked in conjunction with all the other drives without error.
5. I exchanged the Seagate HDD in Drive Bay 2 with the new WD Caviar Black 2 TB HDD.
6. On starting the system, it will report to initialize the new drive.
7. On trying to initialize the new drive with disk utility it reports the error [translated from German] "Erasing of the volume has failed. The device could not be opened."
8. I thought that the drive is faulty. Thus I created an RMA-Case at WD. They exchanged the drive without problems.
9. On getting the exchanged WD Caviar Black 2 TB drive I put it in Drive Bay 2 as before.
10. On trying to erase and format the exchange drive I got the same error message "Drive could not be opened."
10.1 On selecting the physical drive in the devices list, disk utility reports all information in the bottom area of its window as usual, e. g. hard disk description, connection bus, type and place, capacity, write status, SMART-status, partition scheme.
10.1 On leaving that drive selected in the devices list and clicking the info-button, disk utility will also report additional information as usual, e. g. Name, Type, partition scheme, media-identification, media name, media type, device tree, … , number of relocated sectors, etc.. All this information appears to be valid, as can be compared to the other devices information inside the other Drive Bays. Also the disk numbering scheme appears to be standard - 4 HDDs give the numbering disk0, disk1, disk2, disk3.
10.2 From that information I conclude that the SATA-bus and connectors electrically work properly, the drive has spun up and can be accessed by the system normally.
11. I powered down the computer, took out the HDDs from Drive Bays 3 and 4 and put the caddy with the new exchange drive in Drive Bay 4 [Maybe, I could have also just left it alone in Drive Bay 2, or 3].
12. After powering on the system, disk utility will quick format the exchange drive without any error message. Also, when erasing again by selecting the option to write zeros to the drive, disk utility will finish without error.
13. After disk utility finished formatting, I put back the original drives into Drive Bay 3 and 4 and put the now newly formatted drive back into Drive Bay 2.
14. After switching on the computer the system start and login proceeds without any error message. All drives appear as expected on the desktop.

If anyone is reading this still looking for what caused the issue and how to fix it here is what I discovered.
The antivirus program our company uses, Bitdefender Antivirus Plus, was causing some of the PDF files not to open. After troubleshooting the different modules and settings the culprit was..
Scan SSL in Privacy Control Settings. Turning it OFF solved the problem and all the PDF files that previously would not open now open just fine. This issue has been sent to Bitdefender for them to review. If you use a different antivirus program and are having this issue try locating the Scan SSL setting and see if turning it off solves the problem.

I cannot get GPS Only to work on my ipad3 (4g version, but not on an active cell plan, and wifi off). Is there some new requirement in 7.1 or 7.1.1 to have cell and/or wifi enabled for GPS to work? I am testing with MotionX

It seems like I cannot get GPS only to work on my ipad3 (4g version, but not on an active cell plan, and wifi off). Is there some new requirement in 7.1 or 7.1.1 to have cell and/or wifi enabled for GPS to work? I am testing with MotionX, garmin blueChart mobile, and a GPS monitoring tool. All show no signal. If I turn on cell and wifi, it says I get gps signal, but can't tell if that is from the GPS chip, or just from cell and wifi only (maybe with some gps mixed in)? Any ideas on how to get iPad working with GPS only??

Roger that. Thanks for your time.
System:
Windows 7 64bit
Processor: AMD phenom IIX4 965
RAM: Gskill Ripsaw F3-12800CL7D-4GBRM (2-2GB sticks)
GPU:EVGA Classified Nvidia GeForce GTX 560 Ti 448 core
PSU: Kingwin 1000W laser gold (LZG-1000)
Yes. tried the one ram stick, no go. I have been trying to boot off/install the windows 7 disk but am unable to get to the point where windows starts installing after its gathering information portion of the install. I can get to the disk selection screen of the install with the WD HD on SATA port 2 but then get the "cant install messages" when I try to select the Vertex 3. Yes I can see the Vertex 3 Drive as well as the WD drive at this point. some times I have to hit "scan" a couple of times.

Can't Install Snow Leopard on new drive

I'm having a relatively serious problem with upgrading my hardware. I have a Mac Pro tower with an empty HD slot into which I installed a new drive which mounts properly.
My plan was to simply move everything from the old hard drive to the new one, using Disk Utility's "Restore" function.
That seemed to work fine, but when I restarted and attempted to switch startup disks, selecting the new drive caused an immediate kernel panic (the grey screen saying "You need to restart your computer") which was preceeded momentarily by some very strange dos-like text in the upper left hand corner of the screen.
So after several attempts, I gave up and tried to simply install snow-leopard on the new drive. That never even got started. While the snow leopard installer would happily install the OS on any of my external drives that had enough free space, the new drive (despite the fact that it was mounted on the system) would not even show up in the list of drives to select in the Snow Leopard installer.
I checked the formatting of the drive, and it seems to be the same as both my current startup disk, and the external drive that the OS could be installed on.
How can I move my entire system to this new drive without causing instant kernel panics? Thanks in advance for any help!
Cheers,
Ari

Interesting. Yes, I think that is what macjack had in mind. However, after doing what macjack said, your drive would be erased Mac OS X extended (journaled), and, after shutting down disk utility, you could just continue the install you would have started. At the end of the install, you could restore your files, data, settings, and apps from your other drive. The choice, of course is yours. If I were doing it, I would perfer the first alternative.

How to copy referenced photos from dodgy external drive to new drive when whole file will not copy due to error 36.

My external WD portable passport drive must be dodgy because I can't back it up or clone it or copy 3 of my 22 photo files to a new portable drive. I get error 36 as I attempt all 3 processes. I have copied my iPhoto library, iMovie events and most of my aperture referenced photos to the new drive. But cannot copy 3 files that contain the corrupted files showing just a grey triangle. I cannot delete or move to trash the corrupted raw photos.
How can I copy to the new drive any photos that aren't corrupted (grey triangle instead of photo or a photo that's just coloured horizontal broken lines) so I can then reconnect the referenced photos after copying them?
I am on late 2008 MacBook Pro with lion,
Many thanks
Bw

I've worked out how to copy and reconnect individual photos.
But can see that what's happening is that heavily edited raw photos are taking ages to load. Or not loading at all. And if opened go to the spinning wheel for 5-10 minutes. I am wondering whether to compress these or take them back to the originals or any other ideas would be very welcome.
Thank you
BW

How to fix Grub after moving arch to new drive [SOLVED]

I moved my Arch install (/ and /home partitions) to a new drive and I was wondering how to fix Grub so that it knows /boot is on the new drive. What I've done thus far is
create partitions on the new drive and dd my current / and /home partitions to them. The new partitions are bigger than the current ones, so I also re-sized the filesystems to fill the new partitions. My disk/partition setup is the following
/dev/sda1 2048 488392703 488390656 232.9G 7 HPFS/NTFS/exFAT (Storage)
/dev/sdb1 * 2048 206847 204800 100M 7 HPFS/NTFS/exFAT (System reserved)
/dev/sdb2 206848 102402047 102195200 48.7G 7 HPFS/NTFS/exFAT (Windows 7)
/dev/sdb3 * 102402048 141472127 39070080 18.6G 83 Linux (Current Arch /)
/dev/sdb4 141472128 250069679 108597552 51.8G 83 Linux (Current Arch /home)
/dev/sdc2 * 206848 105064447 104857600 50G 83 Linux (New Arch /)
/dev/sdc3 105064448 234441647 129377200 61.7G 83 Linux (New Arch /home)
After I resized the filesystems, I then created a new grub.cfg file (on /dev/sdb3) that is aware of the new Arch system. I can boot to both my current and new Arch installs and run them fine, but ultimately I want to remove the current Arch install so I can make more room for my Windows 7 install. What do I need to do to grub, so it knows to use the new Arch system.
Last edited by tlawren (2014-08-17 21:42:46)

@Xyne - Thanks! Installing grub on my /dev/sdc did the trick. Because I dd'ed my old setup to a new drive, /boot/grub was already populated, so all I had to do was install and configure grub on the new drive via the following.
grub-install --target=i386-pc --recheck --debug /dev/sdx
grub-mkconfig -o /boot/grub/grub.cfg
I used os-prober to find the other OS's (Windows 7 and my old Arch). After some testing, I will wipe my old Arch setup and then resize Windows into the free space.

Yoga 13: the Realtek RTL8723A new driver not yet working properly

After having faced lots of stability issues with my bluetooth mouse (Microsoft Sculpt Touch) I installed the new driver for the wifi/bluetooth chip RTL8723A (v1.04.0213 - 6th June 2013) and after having used it for several weeks, I have noted the following:
Bluetooth issue:
- Still several disconnection of my mouse (but slighty less than before)
- There is a general trend that my mouse connection is worser everyday (used to work better) - and not a problem of batteries
Wifi issue:
- If I activate the "plane mode" from windows 8 wifi bar, it's impossible to reactivate the wifi! I have to run the windows'internal utility to sort out the problem (right clic on the wifi bar from the desktop and "resolve problems")
- Sometime the wifi just doesn't connect properly (its connected on the router but there is no network) and I have to turn on the plane mode and do what I wrote above to make the wifi work again. But some time it doesn't work and I have to reboot
- Despite the "wifi hotspot mode" is implemented (the "netsh wlan start hostednetwork" command) and work it's so instable that it always end in crashing the computer and followed by a reboot (perfectly managed by Windows 8 at least). Anyway I managed to cope with that during my holidays (I used it to create another wifi network which was a network share of another wifi network to which I could only log in for one device (my Yoga 13) - so I used my "hostednetwork" to connect iDevices at the same time). But after several crashes and reboot, the wifi was so instable that I had to reinstal the driver
I have never faced so much bugs in a so basic but vital component of a laptop which is the network card. This card is already far beyond what we could expect of a laptop of this range (the wifi n is single band, no 300 nor 450 mbits speed! It's worse than any modern smartphone!) and has not a good sensitivity but in top the driver seems to have been written by beginners.
So Lenovo, please, do something and pressurise your provider (Realtek) so as they release a driver working correctly - or just don't use their cards and invest in better providers (like Intel which is doing great network cards with professional class software).

Sorry to hear about all your wifi issues. Unfortunately a lot of Yoga 13 owners are having problems, especially due to Realtek compatibility with specific router hardware. Just to see if things improve you might try some of the other driver versions discussed here:
The "Beta" wifi driver from diecast17 is a little older than the official June 6th driver but first improved wireless for many users: http://forum.notebookreview.com/ideapad-essential/640537-ideapad-yoga-109.html#post9180970
There is a slightly newer Bluetooth driver for another Lenovo product that also works for the Yoga 13 (per this forum thread, installs version 05/22/2013-1.3.744.3 vs. 09/06/2012-1.3.644.3): http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/downloads/detail.page?DocID=DS034706

I need a new drive for my G4 Mac mini - where to start??

Hello all,
I have a approximately 4-5 year old 1.5GHz Power PC G4 Mac mini with 1 GB DDR SDRAM memory and an 80 GB hard drive. I was having issues with it running slow, not being able to access different files/applications, etc. so I ran Disk Warrior on it and received the warning that it was not able to replace the directory and that I should save all files from the Preview directory (which I have been able to do).
I took the mini to my local Genius Bar and was told that the most likely problem was a failing drive. Unfortunate as that is, I am happy I was able to make back-ups of all important files on it, and have resigned myself to making the necessary repairs to get it running again.
As I have yet to ever run across this type of problem (replacing a drive to a computer) I obviosuly have a few questions to that end. As some of them may be buried in threads that might be hard to find, I was wondering if folks out there would have the answers to a few simple questions I had regarding this upcoming task.
First, would this be a failing optical drive or hard drive from the way I've described the problem? I seem to be able to get the mini "running", that is able to copy files, etc. if I first run Disk Warrior on it and ten restart - but it is still unable to open things such as Safari or iTunes.
Second, what are the best options for replacement in terms of price/speed/memory? I would love to have the newer intel processor in it, but don't even know if this is something that would be replaced with a new drive (shows how much I know! :^) I don't need as much hard drive space since external drives are fairly cheap - my main focus would be a faster processor and RAM.
Is this something a pretty capable person should attempt to replace themselves, or is going to Best Buy or something along those lines a better choice for the security of not messing the mini itself up? I feel fairly comfortable doing it if it is possible, I would just hate to fry the entire computer if it is a really tricky process.
Thanks in advance for whomever replies to this rather "wordy" question. I think forums like this are one of the best ways to learn and get answers on electronic questions!
Cheers,
Kev

would this be a failing optical drive or hard drive from the way I've described the problem?
Hard drive. DW and other such utilities don't even work on optical drives, and an optical drive problem would not cause boot problems and the other symptoms that you describe. But before you replace the drive, I'd suggest you try reformatting the drive ("erasing" in the terminology used in Disk Utility) and reinstalling Mac OS X. That may fix the problem. If not, then you can look into replacing the drive.
Second, what are the best options for replacement in terms of price/speed/memory?
You can find options here, among other places:
I would love to have the newer intel processor in it, but don't even know if this is something that would be replaced with a new drive (shows how much I know! :^) I don't need as much hard drive space since external drives are fairly cheap - my main focus would be a faster processor and RAM.
Sorry, but replacing the processor can't be done. If you want a faster processor, you'll have to purchase a newer mini.
Is this something a pretty capable person should attempt to replace themselves, or is going to Best Buy or something along those lines a better choice for the security of not messing the mini itself up?
Avoid Best Buy like the plague. They're far more likely to cause problems for your mini than you would be doing it yourself. There are a number of sites on the web that have instructions. Here's one:
http://www.sterpin.net/uk/ddMacMiniuk.htm
OWC/MacSales has video instructions as well:
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/mac-mini/
It is a bit tricky - lots of disassembly - but it's not beyond a reasonably dexterous user.
Regards.
Message was edited by: Dave Sawyer

Broken MSI 3870 OC by some new driver [Catalyst 9.10] [Solved]

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for