BSOD problems with MSI Z77A-GD80. Possible solution - enabling XMP?

Hello all,
I have problems with BSOD. When I play game "TrackMania2 Canyon" after some time (usually 15-30 minutes) BSOD shows with these bugcheck codes: 0x4E (0x99, 0x219CD3, 0x1, 0x1620D3).
When I using other applicatons (MS Word 2010, Visual Studio 2010, AIMP3, Gom Player, Chrome, WaterFox) there is no BSOD. Also, I tried to play game "Trackmania United Forever" (older game than "TrackMania2 Canyon") and everithig is fine (no BSOD).
On this post Leon says:
Quote from: Leon on 15-August-12, 22:17:18
Enable XMP in the bios and put the modules in the black memory slots.
That should work.
I've been using Corsair modules on several mainboards for some time now without issues.
I want to try enabling XMP for my RAM (it is supported by my RAM modules) to try to solve that BSOD. What I need to do? Does it only possible in OC mode or I can enable XMP in Eco or Standard mode? I do not want overclock RAM with XMP, just to set it on 1600 MHz via XMP.
I do not have any OC experinece (just teoreticaly). The best solution for me will be to enable XMP in Eco or Standard mode. If XMP only possible in OC mode I want other OC values to set like in standard mode.
I tested over 5 hours all 4 RAM modules in the same time with MemTest86+ with 3 passes without any errors.
BTW, when I logged into my Windows account, what is the most easiest way to determine in what mode Z77A-GD80 is (Eco, Standard or OC)?
Configuration (all components are brand new) of my PC is:
MB: MSI Z77A-GD80 (MS-7757 v1.0)
BIOS: v1.0 (no newer versions available)
CPU: Intel i7-3770K with Fanless CPU cooler (NoFan CR-95C)!
VGA: Intel HD 4000
SSD: Samsung, 830, 256GB
RAM: Exceleram, model EBW301A, DDR3, 4 X 4GB, 1.5V
PSU: SeaSonic X-460 fanless
PC case: NoFan CS-80
Windows 7 Ultimate 64b
All drivers are the latest (I get them on September 1st 2012. from motherboard's page)
Here are pictures Memory and SPD tabs in CPU-Z.

Quote from: xmad on 05-September-12, 02:50:42
You see, the problem is the bandwidth.
Your cpu's memory controller as stated by Intel:
Max Memory Bandwidth   25.6 GB/s (if it devide by 1000, and 25 GB/s if it devide by 1024)
DDR 1600 memory has a peak bandwidth of 12800 mb/sec, if you multiply it out then divide by 1024 you get 50 GB/sec. This is why it is hard to oc memory, it isn't the memory, it's the memory controller. Even with 1333 it is over 41 gb/sec, which why it is sometimes nessesary to overvolt the memory and or memory controller / increase the latency to run at all!.
A BETTER and more exact reason for this can be found here although it is based on DDR2. http://www.overclock.net/t/193449/memory-dividers-latencies-and-bandwidth-explained
I don't know how did you calculate 50GB/s peak bandwidth of DDR3 dual channel 4 X 4GB 1600MHz but it seems too much.
According to my calculations it is 2 X 8 X 1600 / 1024 = 25 GB/s (2 is for dual channel), witch is the value that memory controler for Intel i7-3770K was natively made for (Intel i7-3770K Memory Types: DDR3-1333/1600).
Here is specifications for Intel i7-3770K:
http://ark.intel.com/products/65523/Intel-Core-i7-3770K-Processor-(8M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz)
I don't think that 2 kits (2 X 4GB) od DDR3 will increse bandwidth double to 2 X 25 = 50GB/s.
Here is my AIDA64's Cache & Memory Benchmark (12.5% less than theoretical maximum for DDR3 1333MHz dual channel):

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    Now, guys I think that is a problem with my motherboard. When I turn on the computer in Bios I have this temps: CPU – 30 C (86 F); IOH – 71 C (159 F); System 30 C (86 F) - http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/394/161020101242.jpg. After 2 minutes the temperatures are: CPU – 34 C (93 F); IOH – 82 C (179 F); System 41 C (105 F) and 2 more minutes later the temperatures are: CPU – 34 C (93 F); IOH – 84 C (183 F); System 43 C (109 F). After 30 minutes of doing nothing I have this temps: CPU – 35 C (95 F); IOH – 85 C (185 F); System 42 C (107 F) -
    Guys it is normal with IOH temperature ? I am a little worried about it ( to be honest I am more than “a little” … I am worried a lot ).
    Ok, I know I don’t have a good case but in 3 weeks I should receive this Thermaltake Spedo Advance Case (http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1121&ID=1829) and I will buy a new CPU cooler ( I don’t know yet wich one – maybe Corsair CWCH70 or Noctua NH-D14 but I have to see the case first … to be sure there is a plenty of space for those coolers ).
    Pls help me with that IOH temperature. It is normal ? What if I intend to make a little OC ( lets say CPU to 3652 Mhz and RAM to 1333 Mhz … but also I will ask for your support ! ) my motherboard will burn ?
    If it is necessary I will contact my retailer and send him back the motherboard but … I like MSI a lot.
    Thx guys for your support !

    Hey guys,  
    Here is a nice cheap alternative.
    Here is my story about the same issue.  I found it after looking at why my computer freezes sometimes. Not very often but enough for me to do some investigation.   I noticed my IOH temp was a whopping 117 degrees Celsius. lol.  Surprised my mobo didn't burn out by now.  I wanted to evaluate the situation with the heat sink and decided to take it off.  After taking it off I found extremely crusty purple compound on board the chipset and the heatsink.  I took me FOREVER to scrape it off. it was almost like a cement which I found odd.  After scraping and cleaning the surfaces with alcohol, I placed some silver compound on and proceeded to put it back on.  
    Well, upon hooking everything back up I was still at 95 to 103 degs.   Now I started to really look at the options to replace this.  I had SLI config which means I had to do something clever with the southbridge as well.  A nice thermaltake chipset solution w/fan and a low profile copper southbridge with shipping was about 45 bucks.  Hmm ... This is a sure fix from the threads I have read and its really kid of expensive to fix a simple defect. the problem is not necessarily with the heatsink not being sufficient.  Its the combo of the compound used vs the amount of pressure applied between the heatsink and chipset.  It was completely unacceptable.  I knew this right away when I was watching the temp and then I would press on the top of the IOH heatsink and I would watch it drop another 15 degrees in less then 10 seconds. The springs are extremely weak and not effective at all in transferring the heat from the NB.
    Here if my fix.  Cost me less than a dollar at the hardware store and it works ideal thus far.  Do this at your own risk.  Doing this will probably void any warranty too.   All my problems are solved and I am running at 57 degrees, YES, 57 degrees with the stock heatsink and no additional cooling.
    For one scrape all that old crap off like I did. Apply your new compound. But when you go to replace your heatsink, use the following method.  The trick is to use metal screws with a mobo washer, original springs from the plastic studs and a nylon locknut.  Use screws that are the same diameter and length (maybe a tad bit longer) as the plastic retainer studs.  Also grab a few of those red nylon mobo washers too, were gonna need them as well.
    After scraping and applying compound, reassemble as follows.  Screw with washer inserted into the back of the mobo so the threads are out front.  The plastic/nylon washer is betweeen the screwhead and the back of the mobo as a insulator. Put the heatsink on. With the threads thru the heatsink already, put the springs on and start spinning on the locknut.  I torqued the nut down on the spring until the spring almost became fully compressed.  The purpose of the spring here is really to prevent you breaking something and at the same time using the max force of the spring since it weak to begin with. Thats why we need to compress it down pretty much all the way. There will be little to no room in the spring at this point.  The heatsink at this point should be pretty solid to the board as well.  I noticed with the plastic studs before the heatsink would wobble if you gave it a little rocking back and forth before.  Not this time. Shouldn't move much if at all.  Remember not to torque down too much. You don't want to go beyond the springs compression. Even if you did by accident, its better then not using a spring at all. If you feel that it starts to feel tight when torquing, you torqued too far. Stop an backup a 1/4 turn or so.  It is also very important to make sure both torques are equal on both sides as well. Alternate sides when torquing down.  I could tell by how much thread I had left on both sides and by looking for any uneven sides.
    To summarize, the compound is a problem no doubt.  After you resolve the compound issue, its all about the adequate pressure between the heatsink and the IOH.  Much like the amount of pressure needed between your CPU and your heatsink give or take. And the pressure that would be as an aftermarket solution like the thermaltake chipset cooler. You dont see cheesy springs on that.  Wake up MSI. Simpy using a more effective spring could save MSI some cash in the long run. I envision a leafsprin design like the thermaltake chipset one.  The heatsink design could be better, sure, but the design itself is not the problem. Replace the heatsinks if you would like to, if your overclocking and stuff.  Funny, this board I have is a refurb too and only had it for a few weeks. Figured they would have done something about it.
    Sorry the pics are not the best. Here is about as close as I could get to the finished product

  • Ram problem! (msi z68-gd80,g3)

    Hey there.
    have a problem with my new ripjaw x series ram 1866. ( and all other ram)
    Tried installing all 16 gb of it earlier today and apparently only the first blue and black ram slot work.
    Before i updated my bios to the newest one the pc wouldn't even load it would automaticly restart, but after getting the newest version of bios the computer keeps running but no signal to the screen.
    I tried mem test on all 4 sticks by using them on the first two slots 1 black and 1 blue and there are no errors.
    UPDATE:
    CPU brand, model and speed - i7 2600k
    Motherboard model (full marketing name, not just MS-xxxx) - > msi z68-gd80,g3/ v18.8
    Memory brand, type/speed, size, number of sticks 4 sticks /4gb each / Ripjaws X F3-14900CL9Q-16GBXL
    Video card brand, chipset type, memory size Ati Radeon HD 5870
    Hard drive(s) brand, size, type, speed Hitachi 320 gb and Seegate Barracude 1tb 7200RPM
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    Operating system and version (including if 32 or 64bit!) Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit
    Power Supply Unit brand and output in watts and DC output (amps) -Seasonic SS750HT active PFC F3

    Quote from: Jack on 26-January-12, 00:26:49
    Did you test @DDR3-1333 // 1.55V // CR=2T?
    Also, please read the >>Posting Guide<< and provide full system specs (especially precise model names/numbers of the memory modules you are talking about here).
    How and where do i change those settings? Am a total newbie so you'll have to be patient with me..
    In the overclock setting of the bios tried changing the volt to and freq to what you said but after changing that even the working 2 didn't work.. so i had to reset bios.

  • Going on week FOUR of problems with MSI NEO-2-S :/

    Mainboard: MSI Neo2-S, BIOS Rev. 1.5x (whatever Live Update sent me)
    RAM: GeiL 1GB (512x2) PC-3500 Matched pairs
    CPU: P4-2.4c
    HD: WD 1200JB Special edition
    Cooling: Stock intel, lapped @ 800 grit
    PSU: 450W
    Video: MSI Geforce 4 TI-4200 64MB
    O/S: Windows XP Pro SP1A, IE 6.x latest security patches
    DX: Direct-X 9b
    BIOS setting: Slow
    Overclocking: No, system will not even run stable at rated speeds.
    Problem:
    System just shuts itself down in the middle of gaming.
    CPU temperature has a wide range, depending on how cool the night is and if I have my windows open etc the system can be as low as 40c. Under load while gaming I've seen it go to between 59c-62c.
    I've gone into Core Center and turned off the dynamic overclocking so it doesn't adjust speed in the middle of playing games, thinking that might be causing issues.
    I've also cranked the fans up all the way in Core Center to increase cooling.
    Heck I've even turned Core Center OFF thinking it was messing with my system.
    No antivirus is running in the background while I'm gaming. I've fresh installed XP Pro. I've re-applied service packs.
    I'm worried about the temperature but I don't necessarily know for certain the sudden shutdowns are a cooling issue.
    I am going on week FOUR of problems with this new system. I have never purchased an MSI mainboard and seriously, I have just flat out had it. I've already been through one RMA'd board, I am not RMAing another. I have 3 days left on my newegg account before I am stuck with this MSI, forever. If I can't find a solution ASAP (in 24 hours!) I am returning this MSI board and getting a Gigabyte 8KNXP.
    Can anyone help me out here with suggestions please. I'm at my wits end. I've never had to do SO MUCH WORK to get a system running stable. I put my P3 with Intel mainboard together 2.5 years ago and I haven't had ONE single issue.
    Stability is a BIG factor for me. I can't even think about overclocking when this sytem won't run at rated speeds!
    Chris

    This is a different problem.. the first board just flat out died after upgrading the BIOS. I never even got to use it.
    This new board upgraded the BIOS just fine but I've been experiencing crashes and shutdowns.
    I don't have any spare motherboard or CPU to test it in, and if I did I'd still have to run it for several days..and I don't have several days due in part to me having to dink around with it for so long.
    I would say I am in game for 30-60 minutes before I see temperatures that high. Although again I have been playing this same game on my P3-1ghz with the same Video card and never once had a shutdown like this. Never once overheated.
    I have all the fancy display/graphics options turned off..I have tested in different resolutions (it makes no difference temperature wise)
    I do not know what my core temps are, I can check when I get home and post them if it helps.
    I'm running everything at stock speeds. I've noticed Core Center ups my speed slowly from 201x4 to 203x4 etc and so I disabled that and finally flat out took Core Center out of startup. I didn't want it modifying anything while I was playing on the chance it was causing the crashes. Still no change even after that.
    The temp does seem a bit high, but I have lapped the heatsink and fan and applied a layer of termal paste (silicon based) to both the HSF and the CPU. I removed that old black pad by scraping it off and then cleaning it with some xylene based carburetor cleaner. I spent several minutes rubbing the black melted parrafin goo off the processor and HSF with a coffee filter. I'm very confident there was little to none left when I applied the new thermal paste.
    I don't understand why it runs so hot, nothing is overclocked, I'm running low settings in the game. These temps i'm posting are from Core Center. I have the case OPEN (plenty of ventilation) and I have the windows in my room open to the night air!! (i live in san diego, its cool at night right now) I tried with the case closed also just to be sure and I received the same temperature readings.
    None of this makes sense...and after 4 weeks and 500 dollars I'm tired of having to make it sense. It should work right away and that's that.

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