Built-in flash won't pop up

After removing my 550EX flash from my T2i camera, my internal flash will not pop up. When I go in to check flash settings for the built-in flash, I get this message: "This menu cannot be displayed. External flash is attached." Has anyone had this problem and what can I do to get my internal flash to pop up again?

Underneath the rails on your camera's hot-shoe there are some leaf-springs. Below one of those leaf-springs is a microswitch. When you slide an external flash onto the hot-shoe, it presses that switch down and that's how the camera knows there is an exetnal flash attached.
This switch can get stuck. Often times the leaf spring just needs to be teased up gently (e.g. use a toothpick or something and just gently nudge it back up.)
That will *usually* do the trick.
If you go to images.google.com and search for a term such as "canon hot shoe micro switch" you'll likely get lots of images showing the location of the switch and how to fix it.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

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Built in flash doesn´t pop up

Hello, I have an EOS Rebel XS camera. The built in flash isn´t opening and teh follow message appear:
" Error 05 The built-in flash´s auto pop-up was obstructed. Turn de power switch to <OFF> and <ON> again."
I´ve tryed several times with no results. Is there something else I could do before taking the camera to the Service?
Thanks a lot!
Pedro
Solved!
Go to Solution.

The pop-up flash has a tiny catch-hook which holds it down. When the camera (or a manual operation) wants to pop it up, a solenoid release the catch-hook and the spring should pop it up.
You shoul hear the clicking sound of the solenoid releasing the catch a few times before the camera gives up and displays the error message.
It means the pop-up flash is jammed... possibly a bit of dust, sand, or gunk is gumming it up so it can't flip up.
Using your fingers, gently pull up on the flash either while pressing the flash pop-up button or just pressing the shutter button in a sitaution where the camera would call for flash.
Once opened, you can use a bit of compressed air on the hinge points to see if you can clear the problem. You'll probably notice the hinge is stiff and doesn't pop-up on its own.
I have seen suggestions to use WD40 -- but frankly wouldn't get that stuff near my camera. If there is gunk, you could use denatured alcohold to dissolve whatever is gumming up the works. The advantage of the alcohol is that it'll evaporate on its own.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

SecurityPanel.CAMERA won't pop up online

Hello,
I've been working on a website using the user's webcam to snap shots and display them on the page.
Everything works fine when I export it to .swf and works okay online but I tried it on a MacBook expecting it to run with the built-in webcam, the webcam won't turn on though...
I did a little googling about that and figured out that using the Security Panel settings would be the easiest way to go. Once again it works fine in swf but the panel won't pop up online... [it does ask me for authorization though]
I really can't figure out where it goes wrong.
Here's my code about the webcam
var cam:Camera=Camera.getCamera();
video_vobj.attachCamera(cam);
flash.system.Security.showSettings(SecurityPanel.CAMERA);
cam.setLoopback(false);
I did try writing the ShowSettings line different ways, it always works in .swf and never online.
If you've got any idea what the problem might be, please tell me.
Thanks in advance.

Hello Patricia!
Try selecting the contacts you'd like to print, then open the print dialog and click on the little triangle right to your printer's name at the top of the dialog. The dialog box should expand revealing a bunch of advanced options. At the drop-down menu labelled "Style" choose "List" and select the attributes you want to print from the table at the bottom (e.g. email-address, phone number, etc.). There should also be a preview available at the left side.
floba

Built in flash for EOS Rebel T4i

Hello,
I have a EOS Rebel T4i and I keep getting an error message with the built-in flash: "Err 05 Built in flash could not be raised".
I turn the camera on and off but the built in flash still does not raise.
Is there somewhere I can look to fix this problem?

Usually this is an easy fix....
Canon cameras have a micro-switch located under one of the leaf springs in the camera's hot shoe. This "tells" the camera when a flash is mounted and the built-in flash shouldn't be popped up. It's not uncommon for this micro-switch to stick or for the leaf spring to not fully return and keep the switch from popping back up all the way.
This website http://www.conraderb.com/flashrepair/ shows several problems that can occur and how to fix them, including the small button of the micro-switch I mentioned above. It uses a different camera model, but all Canon DSLRs are similar. Scroll down to see more about the switch. Unless your hot shoe is loose, too, or the pin that actuates the micro-switch is missing completely, you should not need to disassemble anything. But the illustrations showing the disassembly can give you a good idea of what you are dealing with (note: the website shows using a piece of metal from a paperclip as replacement for the the pin in the micro-switch... I've also seen a thick plastic bristle from a hair brush used,
If it's the micro-switch causing the problem, usually a wooden toothpick or a small, precision screwdriver can be used to gently lift the leaf spring, and, if needed, lightly tap on the micro-switch to encourage it to pop all the back way up.
If this doesn't work, it's possible the latching mechanism got bent somehow. This is a lot less common and isn't discussed at that website, but I've seen it elsewhere on the Internet. Just do a search if you think that's the problem with your camera.
Now, to be honest, I just don't find much use for my cameras' built-in flashes. The best solution for this problem, IMO, is simply to get an auxiliary flash.Those work much better for many reasons: Auxiliary flashes are much more powerful, don't drain the camera's battery reducing the number of shots I can take with it, recycle much faster especially since I often use external battery packs with them, and are less prone to redeye and ugly shadows because the flash head is farther from the lens axis (and can be moved even farther away with a flash bracket and off-camera shoe cord). One of my four year old 7Ds has had the "stuck flash" syndrome since new, and I've never bothered fixing it, though I've taken about 100,000 images with that camera. That should give you an idea how little I use the built-in flash!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Potential built-in flash in Canon 6D mark II?

I was thinking about getting one of Canon's full frame sensor cameras, seen rumours they are going to announce 6D Mark II after they have launched the 5D mark IV, does anyone think there is a chance they will add a built-in flash to the 6D Mark II? Why doesn't Canon offer a full frame camera with a built-in flash? Thanks for your help.

Hi
On board flash is a consumer level feature pros and upper end body users don't really want. 6d may be kind of a lower cost full frame body but Canon seem to group it in with the rest of the full frame bodies in deciding on this feature.
Image quality is poor with low direct flash. You not only get red eye but also ugly shadows on walls behind the subject and an overall 2 dimensional flat look. Full frame cameras have always cost more and were marketed to pros and enthusiasts, and they would use bounced speed lite flashes or off-camera flash, or even if used head-on the speed lite sits up higher. A pop up flash would not be tall enough to clear the end of a lens much longer than a kit lens, and would make a lens shadow at the bottom of your pictures.
Also, a 6d is mostly, though not all metal for ruggedness, and it has at least a little weatherproofing. For 5 series and 1 series bodies, a pop up flash would be a weak spot that could get broken off or let weather in so they may see that the same for the 6 series too.
Scott
Canon 6D, Canon T3i, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; EF 85mm f/1.8; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art"; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites
Why do so many people say "fer-tographer"? Do they take "fertographs"?

T5I Issues with built-in flash

If I take photos in a dark room or in low lighting, the camera's built-in flash does go off but the image comes out dark. I tried two lenses and it is the same thing (so I know the problem is not with the lens). This was fine just a few weeks ago. I did reset all the settings.

The built-in pop-up flash is intended for relatively close distances... perhaps around 10'. A vast assortment of externally mounted flashes (on or off camera) are available however -- and that's one of the advantages of a DSLR camera (most point & shoot cameras tend to have no ability to take advantage of supplemental lighting.)
The flash in your camera is rated with a "guide number" of 13 meters. A "guide number" is the distance that the flash can adequately illuminate a scene EXCEPT it assumes a base ISO of 100 and also a base aperture of f/1.0. Your lens will not be able to use f/1.0 -- but the reason the industry uses this as a standard is because it makes it very easy to determine the effective distance using any f-stop.
All you do is divide the guide number by the f-stop you are using. So for example, if your lens is using f/5.6 then you'd divide 13 by 5.6. 13 ÷ 5.6 = 2.32. That value is in meters (since the guide number was in meters... some older flashes were represented in feet.) If you convert 2.32 meters into feet, you get 7.6 feet.
You can increase that distance by increasing the ISO. Each time you increase the ISO by a stop you get to increase the distance by a factor of 1.4. That means at ISO 200, your flash will cover distances out to just shy of 11' (at f/5.6). At ISO 400, you can get out ot about 15'.
Canon makes it easy to determine the speedlight guide number because if you omit the trailing "0" from the model number (e.g. on the Speedlite 430EX II you'd just take the "43" and omit the final "0") those values actually represent the guide number in meters. BTW... most other companies do NOT do this... don't attempt to use this if you evaluate a 3rd party flash. But for that means a 430EX II has a guide number of 43 meters (again... ISO 100 and f/1.0). 43 meters works out to about 141'. At f/5.6 that's still about 25'... and that's still using the base ISO 100. The 430EXII is considerably stronger than the built-in pop-up flash. The 600EX-RT provides even more coverage (60 meters).
The other VERY nice advantage of these external units is that the head both tilts and swivels. You can "bounce" the light off a ceiling (the ceiling needs to be white otherwise the color of the ceiling will tint the color of the flash and create a color cast on your subjects.) But this creates a nice soft shower of light on your subject so they don't get harsh / flat lighting from using on-camera flash.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Can I wirelessly use a 430 EX II as a slave with the built in flash of the EOS T3i?

I have a Rebel EOS T3i. According to its manual, pp 191 ff, I can fire a remote speedlite wirelessly from the camera. I get an error message that the speedlite can't be found even though I have set up my speedlite 430 EX II according to its manual directions, pp25 ff. Thanks for your help
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Yes - the 430EX II will function as a slave and the T3i (but not the T2i or earlier) can remotely trigger the speedlite.
It's a bit tricky and can be confusing.
First... set the 430EX II in the right mode. Press-and-HOLD the "Zoom" button for about 2 seconds or so. This activates a menu that lets you put the flash in either a single-fash mode vs. remote "slave" mode. Use half-circle buttons to toggle it to read "slave". Press the "set" button (in the middle of those half-circle shape buttons.) I don't happen to have my 430EX II handy, but it should default to Slave "A" and Channel "1".
Now for the camera.
On your camera menu, the left-most tab (which we'll call "Red Camera #1" to distinguish it from other tabs) has the "Flash Control" as the last option on that screen. Incidentally for cameras with a built-in popup flash, the menu is labeled "Flash Control". For cameras that do NOT have built-in pop-up flash, that same menu is called "External speedlite control".
On that sub-menu (Flash Control), make sure "Flash Firing" (the top option) is set to "Enable" or "CustWireless" -- it must NOT be set to "disable" or nothing will work.
You will see a menu options for "External Flash func. setting" (and also "External flash C.Fn setting".) IGNORE THESE! These are ONLY for flashes which are in the camera hot-shoe and do NOT control wireless remote flashes. This is likely where you were getting confused.
Next go to "Built-in flash func. settings" where, ironically, you get to control how your camera communicates with your REMOTE flash (yes, I realize that's not the most intuitive place to put it.) It turns out that it's your INTERNAL flash that is responsible for communicate with any REMOTE slave flashes. The optical wireless actually uses visible light (a lot of people presume it's an infrared communication -- myself included -- I ultimately learned that was incorrect and it is actually the visible light of the flash itself. It sends out communication to the remote by rapidly pulsing codes to tell the remote flash what to do. All this happens before the image is exposed and you'd swear the flash only blinked once... but it turns out it's actually quite busy pulsing away to communicate.)
In the "Built-in flash func. settings" menu there are a number of things you need to set.
If you set the Built-in flash mode to "EasyWireless" it will gray out many other settings... basically the camera will automatically decide what it wants to do. I think the only setting not gray is the channel number (which needs to match the channel number on your flash. The purpose of channel numbers is to allow you to shoot at events where other photographers are also using wireless flash and not have conflicts where they're triggering your flashes and vice versa.
If you set the Built-in flash mode to "CustWireless" it allows you to set many other options. CustWireless offers the most control. It is ultimately probably the mode you'll use the most once you get used to remote speedlites.
In CustWireless mode, the "Wireless Func." menu option becomes available. This option lets you decide if you want (I'm taking these out of order for simplicity of explaining):
a) both internal and external speedlites to fire as one group (external flash icon, a PLUS sign (+) and the on-camera icon)
b) both internal and external speedlites to fire but allowing you to control the power RATIO (external flash icon, a COLON symbol ( and the on-camera icon means "ratios" can be customized.)
c) only external speedlites (only the external flash icon is on that option - no on-camera icon.)
I want to mention something about that external-only option because it confuses most people at first. The camera communicates with the slave via the on-camera flash. The on-camera flash pulses rapidly to send instructions to the remote flash units. This means that in order to use slave-flashes, the on-camera flash must be raised (in the popped-up position). If you ask for external flash only (no on-camera) the on-camera flash will only pulse instructions BEFORE the camera shutter opens to take the exposure. When I first started learning about external speedlites, I saw the on-camera flash fire and thought my settings were being ignored. Not to worry... when you check your images you will see that there was no light provided by the on-camera flash DURING the exposure... all that flashing happens before the shutter opens. Everything happens so fast that you'd swear all the flashes only fired once... but in reality they actually do a lot of "talking" before taking the picture but this happens incredibly fast.
And one last comment... since the camera communicates via the optical (visible light) flash to talk to the remotes, it is important the the lower-body of your 430EX II can "see" the flash on the camera. In small rooms it doesn't really matter where the lower-body is pointed... it'll notice the pulses of light from the on-camera flash. But in large rooms or outdoors the lower-body of your 430EX II (where the receiver is located) wont get any reflection from walls, etc. In these situations, just rotate the lower body of the 430EX II so that it is facing the on-camera flash. You can then swivel the head of the 430EX II to point wherever you need it. The 430EX II will fire even in full daylight as long as it can "see" that on-camera flash.
Here's a video that may help you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQIyPWGPp5A
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

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