Buying a computer monitor?

Hello!
I need recomendations for buying a computer monitor? I'm looking for a computer monitor that is compatible with my Sony Vaio laptop and game consoles. Preferably a high definition screen. Using it as a dual screen to watch movies, play the ps3, etc.
Thank you for your help!
Solved!
Go to Solution.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olstemplatemapper.jsp?id=pcat17080&type=page&qp=crootcategoryid%23%23-1%...
You'll have to copy/paste the link, but any of those will do great. You'll have to use the Check Stock link to see if your local stores have them but the ASUS for $10 is a good one.
If you like my post, or solution to your issue/question, go ahead and click on the little star by my name and/or accept the post as the Solution. It makes me happy.
I'm NOT an employee of Best Buy, or Geek Squad, though I did work as an Agent for a year 5 years ago. None of my posts are to be taken as the official stance that Best Buy will take on your situation. My advice is just that, advice.
Unfortunately, that's the bad luck of any electronic, there's going to be bad Apples... wait that's a horrible pun.

Similar Messages

  • This is about the still image size changing from what I see on the computer monitor and what the burned DVD shows on the TV

    I have Prem.El 12 and have used PE4 for years.  I have a new PC that runs Win7Pro.  The still images on the computer monitor are within the "safe margins".  The still images after the movie has been burned to a disk are MUCH smaller on the TV screen.  Is this an issue of 16:9 vs 4:3 ratios?  My TV is 4:3.  Can I tell PE12 to make the movie a 4:3?

    retchemteach
    Although I have seen your post of today in my Inbox Email Notifications, that post has not yet appears in this thread. It will probably will sooner or later. But, to keep things moving along....this is a copy of what I am seeing as your message of today in my Indox Email Notifications
    Thank you for your patience in the time it is taking me to get back to you.
    I am still trying to buy some DVD-RW discs and will hopefully do that in a
    bit.  Meanwhile, I have more info for you and some simple (I hope)
    questions.  If you want to insert your answers, that would be fine.
    My camera (for stills and video) is set to the 4:3 ratio.  It is capable of
    being set to a 16:9 ratio if I wanted to do that.  I looked in its TOOLS
    menu and saw this info.
    My TV is definitely a 4:3 TV.  (I measured it with my tape measure and
    divided W/L to get 1.33)  The TV can show a 16:9 movie and just adds the
    black bars on the top and bottom.  Question: What will my old 4:3 movies
    look like on a 16:9 TV whenever we buy one of those?
    It seems to me that I want to set PE12 to the NTSC DV Standard you
    mentioned.
    I do NOT know how to “size your photos so that each has a 4:3 aspect”,
    unless you mean doing that in Photoshop Elements, which I know how to do
    (*see below)
    I had NOT considered that I would need to watch the preset for the
    ‘Publish+Share’ step; so that’s good to know (I copied and pasted your info
    for later use).
    BTW, years ago when I had difficulties with my XP computer working on PE4
    (had only 2 GB RAM), an Adobe tech told me to resize my photos * to have a
    720 pixel width (the height would be automatically adjusted) to lower the
    file size to something my computer could handle without crashing.  (That
    was back in the good ol’ days when Adobe support would actually talk with
    their customers and try to help them in the first month)
    My new computer has 16GB RAM.  Do you think I still need to reduce file
    size?  One does lose some sharpness in the resizing process…..however,
    these videos I’m making are travelogues and are for a fun way to view pics
    and videos of a trip…nothing Earth shattering….and just a hobby to keep me
    off the streets.
    I truly appreciate the time you take to help me (and others).  I was even
    tempted to try to install my old PE4 on my new computer just to be able to
    enjoy my hobby again.
    My reply to the above....
    1. If you camera is giving you 4:3 photos and your Premiere Elements 12/12.1 is running on Windows 7, 8, or 8.1 64 bit, then leave
    the photos as is unless you have a lot of photos and each has pixel dimensions sizes way over 1920 x 1080 pixels that are giving your computer resource issues. If you have to down size them because of computer resources, then copy the photos to a computer desktop folder and also create an empty folder on the computer desktop.
    a. Photoshop Elements Editor, File Menu/Process Multiple Files.
    Process Files form Folder
    Source - browse to and select the computer desktop folder with photos to be resized
    Destination - browse to and select the empty computer desktop folder
    Image Size
                 Check Mark Next To Resize Images
                (no check mark next to Constrain Proportions)
                Type in Width = 1000  (set units for pixels)
                Type in Height = 750 (set unites for pixels)
    File Size
               Check Mark Next to Convert Files To
               Set for JPEG High Quality
    The above should work fine for a NTSC DV Standard project with a burn to DVD disc with preset NTSC_Dolby DVD (4:3 video).
    2. With regard to the TV Set and 16:9 video....when you have the DVD-player attached to the TV, do you have the opportunity to bring up a display of menus with
    controls for Picture and Aspect Ratio? From what you have written so far, it looks like the answer is no. I am not sure how your TV DVD
    player will handle 16:9.
    Best do a mini test run
    1. Project preset set manually to NTSC DV Widescreen (please refer to post 1 link)
    A few photos sized for 1600 x 1200
    In the Premiere Elements project, use the Safety Margins inner rectangle for text placement
    Publish+Share/Disc/DVD disc with preset = NTSC_Widescreen_Dolby DVD.
    See what that looks like on your TV DVD player.
    If you discovered that your current TV DVD player can be set for a 16:9 display, then I have a preferred workflow for
    NTSC DV Widescreen which typically gives best possible results. Hints of things to come.
    Please review and consider. Thanks for the follow ups.
    ATR

  • Buying a new Monitor

    +*I have a Mac iBook 800 MHz PowerPC G3 with 256 MB SDRAM running Mac OS X Version 10.4.11.+*
    +*The Graphics/Displays says the following:*+
    ATI Mobility Radeon 7500:
    Chipset Model: ATY,RageM7
    Type: Display
    Bus: AGP
    Slot: ATI
    VRAM (Total): 32 MB
    Vendor: ATI (0x1002)
    Device ID: 0x4c57
    Revision ID: 0x0000
    ROM Revision: 113-XXXXX-207
    Displays:
    Color LCD:
    Display Type: LCD
    Resolution: 1024 x 768
    Depth: 32-bit Color
    Built-In: Yes
    Core Image: Not Supported
    Main Display: Yes
    Mirror: Off
    Online: Yes
    Quartz Extreme: Supported
    Display:
    Status: No display connected
    +*The monitor output plug hole on the side of the computer is a mini DVI.*+
    +*I am thinking of buying an external monitor. A 21.5 in Samsung EX2220x which has both DVI-D input and Dsub input. The latter is labeled RGB-in on the back of the monitor. Its specs are:*+
    Display
    Screen Size
    21.5" Wide
    Brightness (Typical)
    250 cd/m²
    Contrast Ratio (Typical)
    MEGA DCR (Typ. 1,000:1)
    Resolution
    1,920 x 1,080
    Response Time (Typical)
    5 ms
    Viewing Angle (Horizontal/Vertical)
    170˚ / 160˚ (CR> 10)
    Color Support
    16.7 M
    Signal input
    Video Signal
    Analog RGB, DVI
    Sync. Signal
    Separate H / V, Composite, SOG
    Connector
    15pin D-SUB, DVI-D
    Power
    Power Consumption
    22 Watts
    Stand By Power (DPMS)
    <0.3 W
    Type
    Built-in
    Features
    Plug & Play
    DDC 2B
    USB powered hub option
    No
    Mac compatibility
    Yes
    Multimedia Speakers
    No
    Wall-Mount
    75 x 75 mm
    TCO
    TCO'5.0
    Cabinet Color
    High Glossy Black
    Optional Accessories
    DVI Cable
    Special Features
    MagicBright3, MagicEco, MagicAngle, MagicReturn, Off timer, Image Size Color Effect, Customized key, Windows7, DVI with HDCP
    +*My question is will my Mac drive this monitor & if so would it be best to connect the computer to the DVI-D or the RGB input?*+
    +*If the Mac will not drive the above monitor will it drive my second choice a 20 in Acer X203HBD which has both a DVI w/HDCP and a VGA input. Its specs are:*+
    TFT Technology
    TN
    Image
    Image brightness
    300 cd/m2
    Image Contrast Ratio
    10000:1 (dynamic)
    Max horizontal view angle
    170
    Max vertical view angle
    160
    Display
    Diagonal Size
    20 in - Widescreen
    Dot Pitch / Pixel Pitch
    0.276 mm
    Max Resolution
    1600 x 900 / 60 Hz
    Color Support
    24-bit (16.7 million colors)
    Max Sync Rate (V x H)
    75 Hz x 80 KHz
    Response Time
    5 ms
    Signal Input
    DVI-D, VGA
    Features
    HDCP
    Video Input
    Analog Video Signal
    RGB
    Digital Video Standard
    Digital Visual Interface (DVI)
    Expansion / Connectivity
    Interfaces
    1 x VGA - 15 pin HD D-Sub (HD-15) , 1 x DVI-D - 24 pin digital DVI
    +*My question is will my Mac drive this monitor & if so would it be best to connect the computer to the DVI or the RGB input?*+
    Thank you for your help.

    If the monitor has a VGA input, as it appears it does, and will support 1024x768, then you could use it, but it would be a waste of a 22" monitor. Without hacking your iBook an external monitor will only mirror the internal screen (the iBooks do not officially support extended desktop mode which allows you to have different things on the two screens) and at 1024x768, far below the monitor's native resolution, things will be quite fuzzy.
    Regards.

  • Blue Tooth Tv as computer Monitor

    I have a Samsung LN46A550 new HD TV. I was wondering if there is a way I can use to Blue tooth on my iMac to use this as my computer monitor. I have an Air port if that could be used in anyway.

    No, you can't. Firstly, according to its specs, your new TV doesn't even have Bluetooth connectivity. Secondly, Bluetooth is a short-range, rather slow communications protocol. It is nowhere near fast enough for realtime transfer of HD video images, even if the functionality existed.
    Airport won't help either, as this is another wireless communications protocol your TV doesn't have.
    To use it as a computer monitor, you would need to buy an appropriate video cable to connect the Mac to the TV. Have a look at Page 11 of the for more info.

  • Is it possible to buy an apple monitor for a mac book pro version 10.7.5 with Software  Mac OS X Lion 10.7.5

    is it possible to buy an apple monitor for a mac book pro version 10.7.5 with Software  Mac OS X Lion 10.7.5

    Look at the Apple menu's, "About This Mac," and then press "More Info" button, to identify your Mac model beyond just, "MacBook Pro."
    example:
    LED Cinema Display:
    System Requirements
    Mac OS X v10.6.4 or later
    Mac computer with Mini DisplayPort, including MacBook, MacBook Air, MacBook Pro, Mac Pro, Mac mini, and iMac
    http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC007LL/A/apple-led-cinema-display-27-flat-pan el?fnode=53

  • Computer Monitor Flickers

    My computer monitor flickers if we tap it on the side it stops, then starts up again, sometimes we go hours and not problem, other times it drives us nuts, We have a  Gateway computer, it works fine except for this monitor problem, it was purchased in 2004,  it has  a "nvidia GE Force 2 MX 400 video card, I checked with Nvidia and tried downloading the latest driver but then the computer wouldn't start so I had to go back to a previous date so that the computer would start, do I need to look at getting a new monitor? IF so what sort of monitor would be best, someone said the resolution would not be good on a wide screen, but the only ones I have found at Best Buy and other places are the wide screens.   I hope someone can  suggest a solution so we can enjoy this second computer and stop hitting the monitor
    thanks Lea

    I'm having a similar flickering problem with the LG widescreen LCD monitor which came with our first Vista computer (an HP desktop, purchased about a year after Vista came out).  It mostly only seems to flicker when I'm playing games with animations in the graphics (such as Civilization IV or Astral Masters).  The most common suggestion I found (f.ex. in the HP Help & Support area preinstalled on my computer) was to increase the refresh rate.  Doing this has not eliminated the flickering, but has lessened the severity somewhat (it just flickers as vertical lines or bars at 75hz; at the default of 60hz it flickered as both vertical and horizontal lines).  I ran HP's Monitor Diagnostic Tool (which included a simple wireframe animation), and it didn't turn up any problems.
    Hockeycanuckjc's suggestions sound pretty practical, and I'll try them.  I've also seen on another thread on this board that Nvidia graphics cards (my HP computer has an Nvidia Geforce 8500GT) can have issues with the drivers, especially after Windows Vista has just automatically downloaded its latest updates -- so it's possible that the graphics card driver could be getting cranky (though I haven't yet confirmed or denied that theory in regard to my own computer).
    I think my HP computer is still covered under its Extended Service Plan (though I'd have to check the sales receipt to be sure), but I want to do as much troubleshooting as I can before calling Best Buy tech support, so I'll be able to explain my problem more knowledgeably, and hopefully not have to jump through as many hoops as usual before they authorize an in-home service call.

  • Is it possible to buy an apple monitor for a mac book pro version 10.7.5 with Software  Mac OS X Lion 10.7.5 (11G63

    is it possible to buy an Apple monitor for this macbook?

    Look at the Apple menu's, "About This Mac," and then press "More Info" button, to identify your Mac model beyond just, "MacBook Pro."
    example:
    LED Cinema Display:
    System Requirements
    Mac OS X v10.6.4 or later
    Mac computer with Mini DisplayPort, including MacBook, MacBook Air, MacBook Pro, Mac Pro, Mac mini, and iMac
    http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC007LL/A/apple-led-cinema-display-27-flat-pan el?fnode=53

  • AppleTV on a computer monitor?

    I'm wanting to setup a little music "jukebox" type system in a billiard room and at first thought I'd go cheap and get a Squeezebox or Roku Soundbridge for streaming music from my iTunes library. But after seeing an AppleTV demo at Sams Club, I thought I could really do it up right with that. However, even a small flat panel TV is fairly expensive to connect it to.
    Here's my question: Can I hook an AppleTV up to a computer monitor? I thought perhaps I could use a HDMI to DVI converter cable and use a $200 Acer 22" LCD monitor that Best Buy has on sale every once in a while. I've already got a good set of powered speakers I can connect direct to the AppleTV. For under $500 I could have a pretty cool little "kiosk" setup sitting on a corner table out of the way, simple enough for guests to pick their own tunes or videos.
    Any reason why that wouldn't work?

    I'm certain I've seen posts here where monitors have been used successfully instead of TV's. Any problems that might arise are likely to be related to resolution and HDMI. I'm not fully clear how the output from the tv would be matched to the display and you may end up in some cases with the image not quite filling the screen or slightly larger than it. HDMI is designed to check for devices that can record content, when you connect your tv to a tv set the tv set will tell the tv it can't record the content it is about to receive, I'm not sure how a DVI connection would deal with this.
    Clearly it would be helpful if someone with a monitor in use could post details of how they have experienced (or not) these areas of use.
    I could use a HDMI to DVI converter cable and use a $200 Acer 22" LCD monitor that Best Buy has on sale every once in a while.
    Over on this side of the pond, we can get a 32" HD tv for the equivalent of $ 350 and I believer consumer electronics are much cheaper over there, I'd have a look around to see if a monitor is actually your best option (although I'm sure you already have done)

  • Would a Large LED TV work well as a computer monitor?  (PP/AE Editing)

    I'm int the need for getting a larger and better monitor. Right now I'm using an HP 25" 1080p  computer monitor with a contrast ration of 60,000:1
    I was thinking about buying a large TV to use as a monitor via HDMI for PP/AE editing videos.  Is this practical? Issues?  Color rendition?
    Sharp Aquos Quattron LED TV:
    40-inch 3D HDTV display with full HD 1080p
    X-Gen LCD panel with UltraBrilliant LED
    AQUOS Quattron 3DTV technology produces a bright 3D experience
    Quad Pixel processing enables enhanced range of colors and detail
    Built in Wireless with Netflix, Vudu, Cinema Now and more
    240Hz Aquomotion
    4 HDMI Ports
    One-year warranty
    Dimensions: 37″x23″x1.6″; 29.8 pounds
    Thoughts appreciated.

    Yes I have tested the YUV and RGB output out of the HDMI on the video card and yes the YUV output is not converted. Now the codecs and color space used along with how the Application draws out will have an effect on that.. However once again I have tested this with many clients and the YUV preview is exactly the same as their DVD preview from their deck. I am sure there are many editors here that will confirm that.
    Yes I can confirm that. Look up Colorimeters and what they do. I suggest you start here:
    http://www.xrite.com/product_overview.aspx?ID=1454
    Do you honestly think that publication and still editors could edit on Computer LCD's if they could not accurately calibrate them? I dont talk to many that use an I/O device for that.
    The YUV capability of the LCD has to due to what panel they use and what they program the firmware to do. Samsung often has 2 lines for many of their Monitors. One uses a standard RGB panel used by standard computer monitors and another uses a panel that is used in LCD TV's which will handle both. That is an example of when the YUV support is added to the firmware. Keep in mind hardware devices/ie gear like TV's and Decks have the ability to convert RGB to YUV if that is what they do or vice versa. So I can send a YUV signal to a RGB device but if that RGB device does not have output color tables for YUV then it will process that signal to RGB.
    Geforce Cards Support 10 bit. However they only support 10 bit via Direct X and not OpenGL. If an application is written with a Direct X API then you can absolutely have 10 bit color output. Adobe uses Open GL for their API so geforce cards dont output 10 bit. I was just correcting an incorrect statement that Geforce cards cannot output 10bit. BTW Geforce cards can actually output 12bit because the Deep Color standard includes up to 16 bit. This limitation is sctrictly due to the application and not the cards.
    The Source on that was a confirmation post by an Nvidia Rep right here in the Adobe Forums. You might also want to read up on Deep Color here:
    http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-670/specifications
    "5 - Support for HDMI including GPU accelerated Blu-ray 3D support (Blu-ray 3D playback requires the purchase of a compatible software player from CyberLink, ArcSoft, Corel, or Sonic), x.v.Color, HDMI Deep Color, and 7.1 digital surround sound will be added in a Release 260 driver. Upgrade your GPU to full 3D capability with NVIDIA 3DTV Play software, enabling 3D gaming, picture viewing and 3D web video streaming. See www.nvidia.com/3dtv for more details."
    http://www.hdmi.org/learningcenter/faq.aspx
    "Deep Color: HDMI 1.3 supports 10-bit, 12-bit and 16-bit (RGB or YCbCr) color depths, up from the 8-bit depths in previous versions of the HDMI specification, for stunning rendering of over one billion colors in unprecedented detail"
    Hope that helps.
    Eric
    ADK

  • Upgrading or buying new computer

    Hello folks,
    I need some help.
    My current build is: normal PC, i5 3350P, 16GB RAM, GTX660. I have windows 8.1 and mac OS X 10.9.2 (hackintosh) installed on that computer. I installed OS X more for fun and to explore it as viable option to change my working OS.
    After some testing I can say that photoshop is about 5-10% faster in OS X, than windows 8.1. I have more RAM available, no wacom tablet bugs and better workflow (I just LOVE mac OS color mixer, where I upgraded functionalities with plugins and is waaay better than in windows). That said, I prefer to work in OS X than windows enviroment.
    But that is not my problem, my problem is slow response time of photoshop. I'm digital artist so I use photoshop mainly for drawing. brush, mixer brush, smudge and similar tools are my "main weapons" and all of those seem slow or have significant "lag". I tried many settings os OS itself, photoshop and brush settings, but nothing really improved my work. I currently work on mostly around 1920x1080 resolution with some pieces reaching 4000x4000 or maybe even more. But 4000x4000 picture is a big problem for my system and HD resolution is on edge of frustration. Sometimes I get lost in my work and I'm moving pen over screen pretty fast and photoshop just can't keep up with me, sometimes even with simple brush. I would love to swithc to 4K resolution this year so I can make bigger pictures and much more details.
    Now my question is: is it possible to get rid of that lag? I have asked adobe and they haven't give me any good answer on that so I'm mainly asking people with better systems if they experience any lag at all?
    I'm thinking about upgrading my system or buying mac pro (which would be currently overkill for me as I'm still learning to draw and use programs but I plan to learn about drawing and animation and some 3D modelling as well, but nothing too fancy). I was looking at 6-core, 16-32GB, 512GB, 2x D300 mac pro system, but it's pricetag is 4300+€ in my country and that is kinda pulling me off about my decision. I would gladly pay out that kind of money if I would be assured that my work would be smooth, but I don't really know if it is that much of an upgrade over my current system or in other words: is it worth buying it if I already have my computer that is not even outdated yet?
    Thank you for your help and time reading my wall of text Sorry about english.
    Best regards.

    boo radley 2013 wrote:
    I don't think I've ever seen a Photoshop without brush lag, no matter what system it's running under. There's always going to be a brush lag, no matter how small it is. Even on a Wacom Cintiq, when you glide the cursor around the screen without pressing the pen down, the cursor still lags behind your hand ever so slightly  - this is the hardware. Also, I haven't seen any mention of what DPI anyone is using for their images - is it 72dpi or , say, 300dpi? Makes a *huge* difference.
    I can have a 300dpi, 4000px x 4000px document, and paint with a normal soft brush at 400 pixels with very small lag time - but the lag is definitely there. Not enough to slow things down in a majro way though, I'm used to it and the lag time is very short. If I reduce that image size down to 72dpi, then the lag is even less.
    For mixer brush, it will operate much slower if 'sample all layers' is ticked on. If you turn off this option, the brush will speed up dramatically. Also, I have had many instances where for unknown reasons, the mixer brush just slows down to a screeching halt, out of nowhere. And this is with 'sample all layers' turned off. I find that a way to fix it sometimes is click somewhere outside of my document window (click somewhere on the gray empty space in behind the document window) and then for whatever reason it's fixed. A bug maybe, I don't know. Also, your rbush spacing is a major issue as well - if your spacing is set to 1, then the brush is going to be slow. You can bump that up to 10 and maybe a bit higher, and not really see a visual difference in your painting (at least with the mixer brush, and the brush will really speed up (works for both normal brush and mixer brush though).
    Anyhow, I think that even with a top of the line system like that, you're still going to get a lag under random circumstances - I'm not sure that investing that sort of $$$ is going to give you exactly what you want, because I don't know if Photoshop is capable of giving the kind of performance you 're looking for at all times. That's a lot of $$$ just to get rid of a brush lag - think about it. If the lag is that bad, I would consider spending a lot more time experimenting to find out what you can do to improve it, instead of dumping that sort of coin into something that's probably not going to solve your problem 100% of the time.
    For what it's worth, I'm running a Windows7 64-bit i5 4570, 16GB ram, simple on-board video, and old hard drives... the scratch disk is on an older partitoned sata2 drive... and no problems here working with larger documents (300dpi 4000px x 4000px and even much larger than that. Brush lag is always minimal.
    I know there will always be brush lag - it's the basic limitation of USB and CPU processing data from USB. I actually use cintiq which is very good tool and I got used to some little lag. But it is impossible to work when I get more than 2 second lag or even more. I usually do my work at 300dpi or 110dpi, never less and never more and I get some lag already at 100px brush and it's not only normal brush, but mixer and smudge tool as well. I use mixer smudge and normal soft brush a lot at blending and mixing colours.
    I'm also trying to avoid using "sample all layers" on some tools, but sometimes some things are on different layers and I just can't merge them up because it would screw up my work. Instead I hide all uneeded layers and work only on 2 or 3 working layers. That seems to help, but when I get 2+ second lag, nothing helps, not even disabling sampling over all layers. I have tried many things, settings, drivers, nothing really really worked. I written to adobe and I got nothing usefull back from them.
    Also this investment is not only because of lag brush but also because:
    -I would love to buy myself 4K monitor and give back cintiq to my friend who lend it to me. Cintiq is great, don't get me wrong, but still very very limited at resolution and quality of picture isn't really the one of top monitor models.
    -I would like to have a real mac instead of "hackintosh", because this just isn't working as it should (some things just doesn't work because it's fitting some software on hardware that is not designed for, no USB 3.0, sleep doesn't work,...). I found mac way better to work with than windows (less work distraction, better support programs, less clutter, not hassle about drivers, viruses and stuff like that anymore,...). I actually use windows now only for gaming when I have some free time.
    -I would like to buy myself a good computer that will last me at least 3+ years. Until now I was upgrading my computer every year or two. Sometimes only GFX card, sometimes just some more RAM, sometimes new disk, sometimes whole new matherboard with CPU,... Never I had really really good computer. Every year I spend about 1000€ on computer parts and never I had good system tow work/play with.
    As my options at apple computers are very limited I have only 2 actually that are able to run 4K display:
    -mac pro - great design and idea. Computer is small enough to put it in backpack and carry it around and performance is good.
    -macbook pro - I really don't need mobile computer, well at least not in a notebook format. Here performance suffers on account of mobility. In addition to everything I also don't really need built in monitor, because I will get myself better one.
    There is also one more option I could go for:
    -change GFX card on my current system that would support 4K monitor, but that would mean I'm still stuck with current CPU which just can't handle stuff I do and also stuck with "hackintosh".
    I have read somewhere that 4th generation of intel CPU's are much better than 3rd generation, specifically GPU part. My CPU doesn't have a GPU as I got it cheaper and I bought GTX660 anyway. But that was a little mistake as nvidia only supports openCL 1.1 and AMD cards supprot openCL 1.2 which can be much faster in some circumstances. I can't upgrade to 4th generation without changing my motherboard as well and even that won't be much of an upgrade.
    Thing is that with my current system I can barely work on 1920x1080 @300dpi.
    I'm thinking a lot about that investment as it is really big even for me. I would just like to be sure if it is big enough upgrade to justify the cost or not. Few weeks ago when mac pro got released I tried it at apple store and played a bit and it is ultra fast. The test I have done wasn't really extensive as only had few mintues because more people were there waiting to try it out.

  • 40" Bravia for editing computer monitor?

    I am purchasing a Mac Pro for editing both Avid and Final Cut Pro. I am a professional editor, so will only use the sytem for home editing 3 months a year. So... I would like to buy a high def TV for both editing and television watching (for the other 9 months). Questions:
    Am i better off with a 32" Sharp Aquos (720p High Def TV) or the 40" Sony Bravia (1080p High Def TV)? How good will the picture quality be with either TV compared to a 24" Samsung COMPUTER monitor?
    Can i shrink the size of the editing windows (bins, Source Recorder) on the 40" so the resolution remains better?
    Thanks in advance...

    Can i shrink the size of the editing windows (bins, Source Recorder) on the 40" so the resolution remains better?
    This statement makes it seems as though you're looking to use an HDTV as a second (or primary, maybe?) computer display. Meaning you'd feed the HDTV via DVI (or VGA) from you're Mac's video card. Is that correct?
    If it is, then you'll probably be better off with the Bravia - but please confirm the exact specs when it comes to the DVI/VGA input. (Actually, do both models have the right input?)
    The reason I mention this is because most 720p TVs (Sharp Aquos included) are actually 1366x768 displays. So for them to be fed by a computer properly, the computer's graphic's card must support 1366x768. Unfortunately, most Mac cards don't do 1366x768.
    Most 1080p TVs, though, are true 1920x1080 resolutions and most Macs support that resolution.

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    Dale H. Eckerman Jr wrote:
    I think this is really a Leopard question because it involves setting up 2 monitors in System Preferences within OSX. 1) I have a wide screen TV connected to my iMac (Intel White Late 2006) through the Mini-DVI port and a separate audio cable. This connection works fine. 2) The purpose of the TV screen is only to watch DVDs using the DVD player and iDVD in my iMac. 3) In System Preferences->Displays->Arrangement, both my computer monitor and the TV screen appear as separate monitors. I have the setting to mirror each other. With this setting, the DVD movie plays on both the iMac computer screen and on the TV screen. 4) FINALLY, MY QUESTION: When watching a DVD on the TV screen, I would like to turn off the monitor in my iMac so that the screen is dark (in sleep mode to save power, etc.); I want only the TV screen to display the movie. How do I turn off only the iMac screen?
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