Buying First Generation Air-Question of Heat and Performance

Do the first generation AIrs handle simple video watching OK and is watching video choppy? Also are the fans very noisy during simple and normal operations like word-processing or internet surfing, or do these machines easily overheat?
thanks

Hey all,
I own a first gen MBA for about 3 months now. It is a highly durable machine and has never let me down. I do all kinds of stuff, from office applications to video editing and even 3d rendering using 3dsmax in a virtualbox running XP on the MBA. I take it almost everywhere I go.
My experience with heat is, that the most important thing is to keep the vents on the bottom clear. All my slowdowns and heat related issues came when these vents where blocked. I can hook the MBA up to my 1280x720 projector and watch a movie or two without slow down-issues. I put it on the floor and the vents are clear. Temp and fans go up, but no kind of performance problems. If you put it on carpet or on your bed, the problems begin, as than the ventilation gets blocked.
But, to answer the threadstarters question: performancewise you can do anything on the MBA as you would expect to do on any other Core 2 Duo-CPU. It has two cores, afterall. Problems is: if you cut the airflow to it, one of the cores is shut down.

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HT203421 i buy a macbook air with my friend and i changed the apple id also.at first i can update the application but now its impossible to update the application.when i clock to update it shows the id of my fren andsomebody do you have idea to solve this

i buy a macbook air with my friend and i changed the apple id also.at first i can update the application but now its impossible to update the application.when i clock to update it shows the id of my fren andsomebody do you have idea to solve this problem.

The first thing to do with a second-hand computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. You — not the previous owner — must do that. How you do it depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
1. You don't own another Mac.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller — not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. Preferably, install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for some MacBook Air models. For early MBA models, you may need a USB optical drive or Remote Disc. You should have received the media from the previous owner, but if you didn't, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To boot from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then reboot and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should boot into Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
2. You do own another Mac.
If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to create a bootable USB device and boot the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. Alternatively, if you have a Time Machine backup of OS X 10.7.3 or later on an external hard drive (not a Time Capsule or other network device), you can boot from that by holding down the option key and selecting it from the row of icons that appears. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
Once booted in Recovery, launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive — not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In the Partition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive.
After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. You will need the Apple ID and password that you used to upgrade. When the installation is done, the system will automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
Then run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. To upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, get it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the previous owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed — you have to repurchase them.
If the previous owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Apple customer service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to authorize it immediately under your ID. In that case, you'll either have to wait up to 90 days or contact iTunes Support.

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After installing the Lion-os on MacBook Air noisy, badly heated and eats the battery in just one hour.

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djb53 wrote:
Can take some time.... how much time?
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Hello
Can someone please help me with the following question.
I am not a DBA but rather have a question related to database performance, as I read a related post and want to understand the relationships involved.
If I have a physical Server with lets say 8 core CPU (possible one CPU with 8 cores or two CPU with four cores each).
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in the background.
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Ernest
AAnotherUser__

Adding files to tempdb should only be done if you are seeing tempdb contention. I have a environment where there are only two tempdb files even though physical cores are more than that I dont see any contention reason being tempdb is not utilized heavily.
Read post given by FZB, the Pauls article, it would say its myth to add data file as per core and I agree to that adding tempdb file should not be proactive but reactive approach.
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this msdn blog
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this msdn blog
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Please mark this reply as answer if it solved your issue or vote as helpful if it helped so that other forum members can benefit from it
My Technet Wiki Article
MVP

2 AIR Questions: Launching applications and Viewing PDFs...

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What the title says

Call AppleCare and ask to be transferred to Customer Service. Or call any number you were given in your email.

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Hi, my Macbook Air bought last December (2008) becomes very sluggish, as in really slow after some very light usage.
It usually happens when I'm watching a YouTube video (or any .flv video) in either Firefox or Safari or if I'm browsing for a long period. It's not just the browser that becomes slow, it's the whole computer. The video cannot be watched and it becomes all jittery. Switching between tabs takes a while, and even scrolling down a page has a delay. Typing also has a delay, and the whole experience is just horrible. Moving along the dock, the icons magnify at irregular intervals and launching an application takes extremely long, even the System Preferences Pane.
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My first generation Air was sluggish from day one. Part of the problem is overheating, you can see that in the Activity Monitor as process 'kernel_task' taking 150% CPU or more. My fist generation machine crashed a lot, but that was eventually fixed with a firmware update that I suspect made the machine even slower. If I lift my machine up and hold it against a table fan, I can watch the 'kernel_task' CPU % claim down to almost zero.
I suspect another defect with the Air is the disk I/O system. I know the disk is not supposed to be the fastest, but if you have one application that do anything on the disk, everything else slows down to a halt. DMA (direct memory access) was invented 1989 or earlier, so I really don't know why the CPU should stall when some I/O is ongoing. It is so frustrating to watch a CPU load of 20%, have two CPUs, and still have a machine that is so sluggish that it is practically unusable.
I'm a double idiot, because when my first MacBook Air broke (the common hinge problem) I bought a second generation one, thinking that Apple fixed the problems. To be sure I was not the cause, I did a clean install.
Now I sit here tilting my almost new MacBook Air to give free airflow under my machine by my table fan, and still can't really use more than one application at the time, constantly restarting web browsers to be able to scroll pages, exactly the same problems as the first one.....
I have hopes for Snow Leopard fixing part of my problems, the disk I/O problem, but who knows.
I do think I will buy a new copy of CoolBook, the tool that saved me with my first MacBook Air. If underclocking and undervolting, it was kind of usable, could even watch videos!!!
Apple, please, fix MacBook Air!!!!

Buying First Generation Air-Question of Heat and Performance

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