Buying the right camcorder

So...continuing a discussion I posted a couple weeks ago, I've been diligently reading and looking into buying a new camcorder. I'm currently using a nice Sony Mini-DVD Handycam, but my problem is when I bring content into Premiere Elements I'm having some quality issues. The DVD's play fine on their own, and content that is taken from a tripod without a lot of movement is okay, but when I'm moving the camera around panning across a scene I'm gettng jittery and blocky video effects. It sounds like this is a result of me trying to decompress and recompress the video from the mini-dvd VOB files, so I'm looking at Mini-DV tape based camcorders. All of my searches seem to end up with the Canon VIXIA HV40. It's a little pricer then I had hoped for, but I like the fact that is has 24p and 30p modes, and what sounds like decent all around performance. I have read some reviews suggesting it isn't the best in low light though.
Are any of you using this platform, and if so would you mind giving me your thoughts on it? Any other ones I should seriousley consider? I'm hoping to do this upgrade just once, or my wife may kill me! I would LOVE to find a camera that doesn't require me to use tape (This seems like a horrible step backwards away from the simplicity of flash or HDD memory) but I guess I'm resigned to the fact that if I want to use premiere there isn't a current camera that will work well for me unless it's mini-dv.
Also, if it matters, my computer is a dual-quad core Intel box...new processor, 1gb video card, and 8gb of ram. I'm hoping thats enough horsepower to handle premiere HD movies.
Thanks again for all your help...I'm really enjoying trying to read all I can and catch up on this.
Thanks.

General, Language may be challenging, but deduction may overcome that:
http://www.dvinfo.net/forum/avchd-format-discussion/73357-avchd-samples.html
http://av.watch.impress.co.jp/docs/20080206/zooma344.htm
Panasonic LumixDMC-GH1
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/panasonicdmcgh1/page19.asp
Hunt,
I went to post the links for the AVCHD and HDV video samples that I use for some troubleshooting and could not put my hands on those links at this time.
But, in the searching for them, I came across the above links that might be helpful for future use for someone.
ATR

Similar Messages

HT1711 Is buying the song on iTunes buying the rights to use the song in a video

Is buying a song on iTunes buying the rights to use it in a video

No, absolutely not. You are buying only the rights for personal use only. If you want to use a track in a video, you need to 1) get the track from a CD since the iTunes Store disallows any sort of commercial use and 2) obtain a license from the content owner to use the track in a video. There are usually clearing houses for that purpose that handle licensing for the major record labels.
Regards.

I bought 2 of the same songs by mistake and they were the short version i was listening to in order to make sure that i was buying the correct record. how do i get a refund in order to buy the right song?

I bought 2 of the same song by mistake and they were the short version i was listening to in order to make sure that I was buying the correct record. How do I get a refund in order to buy the right song?--

All purchases are considered final, but you can try contacting iTunes support and see if they will refund or credit you : http://www.apple.com/support/itunes/contact/ - click on Contact iTunes Store Support on the right-hand side of the page, then Purchases, Billing & Redemption

Question about the right camcorder to buy

Hi!
I want to buy a new camcorder, as my DV on is completely dead...sob. I found some nice ones, but I'm a little bit affraid of what I red on the internet. Fr example I figured that the JVC GZ-MG130 was quite interesting but some people had troubles with it, like they were not able to transfer their video to Imovie08. An other one that seemed attractive was the JVC GZ-MG 330 but the problem was still the same, it seems that JVC has some problem with Imovie 08.
An other thing that I can't figure out s if it's not just a question of OS. Like all these persons were running on Mac, but they didn't tell the version they were working on. Personnaly I've got leopard.
So my question is the following one:
does anyone know if these camcorders are willy compatible with Final Cut 4 and Mac OS Leopard (Macbook Pro bought on October 2007), or shall I definitly change my mind about HDD camcorders, or maybe just about this JVC brand?
Please someone help me, I'd need a camcorder for my next trip to Chicago!!!! (I'm french BTW^^)
Thank you all by advance!
PS: I'm pretty sure that Sony's camcorers work on mac, but it's a bit foggy to me, and sony camcorders are reeeeaaaaallllly expensive. Let me know what you think please

I have used Sony Digital8 camcorders with FCE successfully with no trouble. The Easy Setup "DV-NTSC" works fine and device control works as well. I have used the Sony DCR-TRV510 and DCR-TRV460. However, Digital8 is a dead format and you can't buy a new Digital8 camera any more, only used ones. You could buy a new Sony miniDV camera and it should work perfectly with FCE through the FireWire cable. (Sony calls FireWire "iLink.") The only warning I have is that in my experience, Sony cameras suddenly die at the worst possible moments, when you need them the most. You basically are forced to keep 2 of them so that if one dies, you have a backup at critical times. When they do work, though, the image quality is excellent and the transfer of the data to FCE is simple and easy.

Am I buying the right USB hub

I want to connect a digital camera to usb port. The 3 ports on the back of computer are being used for printer/keyboard/mouse. (I am not using a Mac keyboard so don't have the 2 extra ports). I am not a techie, not even close. After reading about ports/hubs - am I going in the right direction? Or totally off base?
I should purchase a 2 to 4-port hub - self-powered is best - and I'd like to get a mini if they also work with non-laptop. - supports 2.0 and 1.1 devices, full speed and low speed devices. Prices vary so much. Are the hubs priced for around $25 okay?
One item says it supports plug and play over-current detection and protection. Don't know what this means.
Thank you for help. Joan
iMac G5 Mac OS X (10.4.1)
iMac G5 Mac OS X (10.4.1)

I don't know much about the price ranges of hubs, and how much bang you get for your buck, but I do know that over-current detection and protection is a good thing as if you are connecting hard drives and such to your computer through the hub, they will be protected from any dangerous power spikes.

Help with buying the right MacBookPRO.

I have an old 2006 Ca vintage powerbook. It works after a few repairs but I cannot update. So I will have to now buy a new one.
I have many questions, but the main one is about solid state hard drive.
Two questions:
1/ Limited write cycle? What does that mean in terms of solid state? After some time does one have to change the solid state drive, even though it still partially works?
2/ Solid states don't get affected by magnets, but what about these new stronger X-rays machines in airports, .. . or even Light? I fly every two months and those new X-ray machines are very strong.
I am a creative type with low income, so I want the macbook pro to last more than 3 years. I have a large archive in London and many scans etc, so I also cannot afford to lose any info either. --Having already lost thousands of Emails more than once in Apple's mail!
The bigger the storage the better, too!
I was told that the new retina screen is more fragile, and also as great as it looks, doesn't print with the same colors. I dabble in graphics but don't print that much, plus I work on photos and video, and I wheel my laptop in a Tumi case at the airports.
Which MacBookPro would you suggest?
I would really appreciate some advice on which of the new ones to get. Solid state without retina or with retina screen? No Solid State and an inbuilt drive? I often have slow broad band, so I still like to store the many files on hard drives and in the laptop.
Prima

Go with the non-Retina 15 Inch.....The Retina Macbook Pro is quite expensive and there is no update available at the moment from Adobe and Microsoft to support the Retina Screen.
With the Retina Macbook - you can not upgrade your RAM in the future should you need more - since it's soldered in the logicboard - the flash storage is upgradeable but not worth it's price right now.
With the non-Retina Macbook Pro - you can upgrade the RAM yourself and if you think you're running out of storage space - the hard drive is also easily upgradeable.
if i were in your shoes - i would get the base 15 Inch Macbook Pro - add the antiglare Hi-Res screen if you need it and do the RAM upgrade to 16GB - That's what I did to my 15 inch Macbook Pro.
with regards to your SSD question/concerns:
SSD Endurance
3K P/E Cycles
5K P/E Cycles
10K P/E Cycles
30K P/E Cycles
NAND Capacity
100GB
100GB
100GB
100GB
Writes per day
10GB
10GB
10GB
10GB
Write Amplification
10x
10x
10x
10x
P/E Cycles per Day
1
1
1
1
Total Estimated Lifespan
8.219 years
13.698 years
27.397 years
82.191 years

Buying the right Lenovo w530 for CS5 Master Collection; I should be smarter, but time is an issue!?!

Hi Everyone
I'm buying a Lenovo w530 for graphic design and video editing on CS5 Master Collection - the whole package!
I have various solutions for HD setup, but no knowledge of hardware or setup in general for a complete machine where the various parts complement each other in a way that there is no obvious bottleneck coming up to fast.
RAID 0 SETUP ON A LAPTOP VERY IMPORTANT???
I'm following lynda.com for various online lessons as this is not my primary occupation, and one of the instructors stresses the need for a raid 0 setup.
Having to do this means ordering directly from Lenovo in the US, because they need to install another devise in the machine.
I prefer not to as I live in Denmark. It's so much easier dealing with local suppliers, and the possibilities that’s already in the machine. I realize that in desktop systems you'll prefer larger solutions with more drives and faster connections. In the Lenovo I’m limited by different setups.
HARD DRIVE SETUP - SSD or 7200 for OS and then what for working disc???
Do I really need raid 0 on a laptop for working files (small web videos) or will SSD Sata III do?
For OS:
Should I go for a 7200 drive as OS drive and an SSD as secondary drive in the DVD slot via an adapter?
Or should I go for an SSD drive as OS drive, and also as a secondary drive in the DVD slot. (what sizes should they bee)
CPU
Intel Core i7-3820QM 2,7GHz Quad Core (3,7Ghz Turbo)
Ram
16 or 32 mb
Harddisk
500 GB 7200RPM
2GB NVIDIA Quadro K2000M + Intel HD Graphics 4000 (Optimus auto-switch)
CD/DVD
Serial Hard Drive Bay Adapter III with secondary SSD Sata 3 harddisc, could be something from
120 GB SSD Intel 520 Series
160 GB SSD Intel 320 Series
180 GB SSD Intel 520 Series
240 GB SSD Intel 520 Series
480 GB SSD Intel 520 Series
600 GB SSD Intel 320 Series
or
CPU
Intel Core i7-3720QM 2,6GHz
Ram
16 or 32 mb
Harddisk
240GB SSD(odd size but thats what it says)
Videocard
2GB NVIDIA Quadro K2000M + Intel HD Graphics 4000 (Optimus auto-switch)
CD/DVD
Serial Hard Drive Bay Adapter III with secondary SSD Sata 3 harddisc, could be something from
120 GB SSD Intel 520 Series
160 GB SSD Intel 320 Series
180 GB SSD Intel 520 Series
240 GB SSD Intel 520 Series
480 GB SSD Intel 520 Series
600 GB SSD Intel 320 Series
Back up is intended from the usb 3 port to some disc - haven't looked at it yet.
FIRST BOTTLENECK?
I hope my system will recognize the NVIDIA card as a friendly given that’s it’s so much newer than my Master Collection CS5.
I'm curious as to where in this system the first bottleneck will be when I start working.
Processor, RAM, Graphics card, hard disc setup
Can anyone recognize this straight away?
Does anyone know how the Graphic cards it handles effects in PP?
I'll be glad for all help I can get BEFORE 1 of Jan where part of my funding vanishes...
al best and happy holidays to all

I do not own and have never used a W530, however having played with various laptop and desktop setups running CS5 I have the following to offer you:
- Suggest the i7-3720QM over the more expensive and ever so slightly faster i7-3820QM CPU
- Suggest sticking with the K2000M vs. the K1000M with 1/2 the number of cores (you will need to do the ever so common "hack" for Adobe to recognize this GPU; don't worry, this is not a risky step, you simply need to find and delete a text file after installing the software)
- You can go with either a 7200 rpm boot or SSD choice for the OS / programs; the SSD will perform normal PC chores faster, but the performance level of the boot drive will not impact Premiere Pro as much as the additional drive(s) that you have
- Suggest you get a third party solution for adding the optical bay 2nd HD (or SSD); I would choose the 750GB Seagate Momentus to insert into it (NewModeUS, eBay sellers, etc.); this will save you a lot of money and will work just fine.
- In the USA you can request 16GB in 2 sticks so presumably you could expand to 32GB later with minimal cost; do this if you can
- Suggest start with W530 loaded and configured with Adobe and see if it performs fast enough for you. And, if you want more speed, you could add a USB 3.0 (W530 does not support eSATA like the W520 did) external drive to give you a bit more performance.
- Of course big, fast, expensive SSDs would be faster (and smaller) for your optical bay and / or USB 3.0 connected drives, but they are very expensive (per GB) compared with 7200 laptop drives and you most likely will be just fine without it.
I found the link about the guy who purchased a W530 for use on a sailboat, but I see you already found it! (you posted to it).
http://forums.adobe.com/message/4909480
Regards,
Jim

Newbie needs to buy the right tool

I need to select a web authoring tool. I am very familiar
with the Adobe Creative Suite CS2 and Production Studio products.
Adobe GoLive is part of Creative Suite so I have that application
now. But I fear that with Adobes acquisition of Macro Media GoLive
may go the way of PageMaker.
I’m looking to learn the tool/s that will allow me to
best complete my work – not just the easiest tool. I am
currently creating multimedia training DVDs and associated print
materials. I’m looking at moving into areas of web-based
training/tutorials, and other emerging technologies –
podcasts, mobile devises etc. Fortunately money really isn’t
an object so I can get what I need. The question is what do I need?
Right off the bat I need the tool that will best set me up
for my first foray into the world of simple web-publishing. My
first project is an information website with a main page and two
sub-pages and links to other web resources.
Where should I start?

From what you've said, I would take a look at
Adobe/Macromedia Dreamweaver
8.

Buying the right replacement power adapter for HP Envy

The original power adapter for my brother's HP Envy Touchsmart laptop has appears to have partially melted. I'm trying to find the correct adapter to use as a replacement, but I have questions because it looks like he will have to order one of the Smart adapters, which is not what he used originally. The product number is E0M27UA#ABA. If you need any more information just ask and I will try to post it as quickly as possible. Thank you in advance for any help you can give us.

Hi,
This is a list from Down under. You should be able to find similar site in your country:
http://www.psaparts.com.au/laptop-notebook/hp/envy-13-1050ea-battery-adapter-charger.html
Regards.
BH
**Click the KUDOS thumb up on the left to say 'Thanks'**
Make it easier for other people to find solutions by marking a Reply 'Accept as Solution' if it solves your problem.

Buying the right Apple Product?

I'm considering transitioning over to Apple And I need the communities advise please...
I have made a significant investment previously in Windows based products such as...
1. COREL - Paintshop Pro X7
2. COREL - VideoStudio X7 Video Editor with Screen Capture
3. MOVAVI - Video Editor with Screen Capture
I realise if I transition I will have to reinvest. The products I will look at are
1. Final Cut Pro
2. Logic Pro X
3. Aperture
4. Adobe Suites - photoshop etc.
I have a couple of questions which I would appreciate your input please (Users only - no product sales people - respectfully I'm looking for unbiased input please that is not driven by quotas or agendas).
Question 1
1, will a MacBook have the grunt, performance and stability to facilitate my editing needs? If so what's the minimum I should look at?
Question 2
1. How often does Final Cut Pro release new features? With MOVAVI & COREL they are continually releasing new transitions and editing features. Does this happen with these high end products?
Thanks in advance - let's see if I can gain the certainty from the community to help me make my decision or not....

just a comment from the hobbyist corner:
for video, there's very little need to install a print-pre-production suite as Adobe CS - video has no CMYK, has RGB only.
So, for a fraction of the monthly fee Adobe actually asks for, you get Pixelmator, which - imho! - offers everything (and more) the video-maker needs for 'still preparation' - including saving as .psd, to have access to each layer in FCPX or Motion5 (missing THAT on your shopping list, a must) ... plus, I bought Pixelmator a hundred years ago once, and got dozens of updates yet - for free! Incredible bang for buck!
according 'power':
the secret sauce for a speedy edit system is 'platters': distribute Events, Projects, cache, apps onto different hard-drives - if you consider that, you can perform stunts like this 4-streams-4k-multicam on a MacMini.
yeah, a bit crazy, but I HAD to try that.........
FCPX + a Mac can NOT be measured by standard hardware benchmarks only, I say ... me no engineer, but as my lil' 'test' demoes, some really cheap and low-specs hardware + FCPX runs circles around 'nitro-cooled über-beasts' in the PC sector........
a more profound source than me about managing media, is Mr Larry Jordan:
http://www.larryjordan.biz/fcp-x-convert-managed-to-external-media/

Buying the right video camera

Hello everyone,
I work for a community centre in Montréal and we are looking for a video camera that would be fully compatible with our new iMac and iMovie.
We are basically filming kids participating in activities and then editing the footage.
From what I have been reading so far, it seems a camera which records images on a tape would be the best. We have a small JVC camera which records images on a hard drive and importing the images in iMovie is a bit complicated...
Would you have a suggestion for a small video camera ?
Thank you !
And Happy day !
Mathieu
Imac Mac OS X (10.4.9)

Welcome to discussions, Bembrops
iMovie runs on QuickTime. QuickTime 'sees'the timecode on your video. When it stops, QuickTime stops.
So, this sounds like a timecode prolem that is happening when you import.
Perhaps simply geting rid of the imovie perference files will help.
Close Imovie.
Then locate a file named com.apple.imovie.plist and get rid of it. Then empty the trash, run a permissions repair with disk utility and restart. That should do it. The files you need to delete are found in:
/Users/YourName/Library/Preferences/com.apple.imovie.plist
Also, Canon cameras don't always play nice with imovie. Especially if the camera is daisy-chained thru another firewire device. Having said this, I think I'd try a shorter Firewire cable.
(Even though your exact model isn't listed-it may still aply to you)
Macintosh: FireWire Issue With Some Canon Mini-DV Cameras
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=61603
:)Sue

Did I buy the right thing!!

Hi,
After much confusion about what includes what on the Adobe
website I finally decided on Creative Suite 4 Web Premium. I have
been using FrontPage 2003 and want to start using Dreamweaver. It's
a fun thing for me and helps keep my mind active while I make a few
dollars as well.
Now I have the opportunity to do a bit of freelance work
making up adds for a couple of local newspapers.
Problem: Should I have spent the few extra dollars to get
Creative Suite 4 Design Premium which includes InDesign CS4 or can
I make up the newspaper adds in Photoshop CS4. I am guessing that I
should have spent the extra money in the first place because to get
InDesign on it's own costs more than I am prepared to pay, and is
there an alternative.
At the moment if I never go to the Adobe site again it will
be too soon as I find it totally confusing and frustrating - or is
that just me!!!
Cheers
John

What file format does the newspaper want?
What file format are the original source files going to be
in?
As a rough guess- between Photoshop and Acrobat pro that are
in the package
you bought, you can turn in files they can use if it's a
graphic design job.
Do the design in Photoshop and then create a pdf.
There's four different product groupings.
Which one to pick depends on which applications you need.
http://www.adobe.com/products/creativesuite/
Design Premium
Web Premium
Production Premium
Master Collection
Adobe Creative Suite 4 Design Premium
InDesign CS4
Photoshop CS4 Extended
Illustrator CS4
Flash CS4 Professional
Dreamweaver CS4
Fireworks CS4
Acrobat 9 Pro
Adobe Bridge CS4
Adobe Device Central CS4
Version Cue CS4
Adobe Creative Suite 4 Web Premium
Dreamweaver CS4
Flash CS4 Professional
Photoshop CS4 Extended
Illustrator CS4
Fireworks CS4
Acrobat 9 Pro
Soundbooth CS4
Contribute CS4
Adobe Bridge CS4
Adobe Device Central CS4
Version Cue CS4
Adobe Creative Suite 4 Production Premium
After Effects CS4
Adobe Premiere Pro CS4
Photoshop CS4 Extended
Flash CS4 Professional
Illustrator CS4
Soundbooth CS4
Adobe OnLocation CS4
Encore CS4
Adobe Bridge CS4
Adobe Device Central CS4
Dynamic Link
Adobe Creative Suite 4 Master Collection
InDesign CS4
Photoshop CS4 Extended
Illustrator CS4
Acrobat 9 Pro
Flash CS4 Professional
Dreamweaver CS4
Fireworks CS4
Contribute CS4
After Effects CS4
Adobe Premiere Pro CS4
Soundbooth CS4
Adobe OnLocation CS4
Encore CS4
Adobe Bridge CS4
Adobe Device Central CS4
Dynamic Link
Version Cue CS4
Alan
Adobe Community Expert, dreamweaver
http://www.adobe.com/communities/experts/

Choosing the Right Power Supply

First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

Can i buy the photoshop software?

is it possible for me to buy the software photoshop?

jasmine123456 wrote:
is it possible for me to buy the software photoshop?
This reads like you want to buy the rights to Photoshop from Adobe, which would be fair, as Adobe and other mega software companies have done more than their share of buy-outs over the years. But if a takeover bid is what you have in mind, apart from needing an insane amount of dollars, you'd also be taking on the Photoshop Development Team complete with their 'artistic temperaments'. In fact some of them are downright strange :
Russell Preston Brown. Don't ya just love him?

My ipod wont let me buy any apps because it says i have an invalid security code for my moms credit card but its the right one. and it also says i owe money for upgrading an app does anyone know how to remove my moms credit card cause i cant figure itout

my ipod wont let me buy any appps because it says i have an invalid security code for my moms credit card but its the right one. and it also says i owe money for upgrading an app does anyone know how to remove my moms credit card cause i cant figure itout

To change asccount information see:
Changing Account Information
For the code issue this may help.
iTunes Store: My credit card's security code or zip code does not match my bank's records
For a standard iTunes account you need a valid payment method even for free apps and app updates.
What is making it think that you own money for an app upgrade?

Buying the right camcorder

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