Cable splitter

I need to hook up to a charger AND a vga adapter, at the same time... is there a way to do this?  I need to have power on for long presentations.  Can anyone think of a way to do this?

No. Only HDMI/Charger is avaliable.

Similar Messages

  • Red/White/​Yellow Cables Splitter??​?

    Does this exist? We are looking for a way to get the tv fully set up and not have to worry about playing the switcheroo game. We have the cable, dvd player, wii, and a roku that all need to be hooked up to this tv with these plugs. The tv isn't exactly new but it does have 2 of these ports, but the one in the front has developed a short on the red one I think. It likes to blink if it is bumped or is on too long. I'd like to hook all of these items up to the back ports and have them be hands free no worries. Then save the front port for the occassional plug and play game. If anyone has any ideas that would be great!

    It sounds like you want a combiner, not a splitter.
    There's no good way to "handsfree" combine composite video signals.  However, you can get a switch box that will let you change inputs with the press of a button.  (A lot easier than yanking/reconnecting cables on the back of the TV!)
    *disclaimer* I am not now, nor have I ever been, an employee of Best Buy, Geek Squad, nor of any of their affiliate, parent, or subsidiary companies.

  • Where do I find a sync cable splitter?

    Ok, I have been searching everywhere. I'm getting iDJ Live by Numark, and I want to keep my phone fully charged when DJing at the bar through out the 7 hours I'm there. It's the kind of thing I have been trying out without bringing my computer with my all the time with my turn tables.
    The splitter I'm looking for is a 1 male to 2 female sync connections. I have been searching everywhere and I can't find anything that can support me. The only thing I want with it is to hook up the iDJ Live system and hook up my computer to it for it to charge, and sync music if someone requested a song that I have on my computer, but don't have on my iphone. This will be a temporary thing till I get the iPad. I need someone to tell my boss to pay me more so I can get a 64GB iPad.
    Any information will work if you can provide it. Thanks.

    both my component AV and my composite AV have usb for charging and of cause white and red RCA
    other then that a quick google give piles of results
    http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/av-output-to-rca-usb-cable-for-iphone.html
    more here
    https://www.google.dk/search?source=ig&hl=da&rlz=1G1TSEH_ENDK367&q=setup+orage+m ail+account+iphone&oq=setup+orage+mail+account+iphone&gs_l=igoogle.3...2366388.2 374268.0.2374443.35.10.0.25.0.0.124.821.9j1.10.0...0.0...1ac.DPBWzExW4rU#sclient =psy-ab&hl=da&rlz=1G1TSEH_ENDK367&q=iphone+rca+out+with+usb&oq=iphone+rca+out+wi th+usb&gs_l=serp.3...239699.248355.0.248487.24.18.0.6.6.0.165.1382.15j3.18.0...0 .0...1c.Ue94ecCLxyE&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.,cf.osb&fp=48fc6205284b3d4f &biw=1780&bih=729

  • I would like to watch videos on my tv from my mac, but no hdmi connection on my mac.  Is there a usb/hdmi cable available to my mac?

    I would like to connect my MacBook Pro to my tv to watch videos, but I only have a usb connection on the laptop.  Is there an adapter to go from usb to hdmi for the mac?

    You will need a cable such as this for video:
    http://www.amazon.com/Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B003OC6LWM
    This will be attached to the minidisplay port.
    For audio, you will need a cable such as this:
    http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Audio-Cable-Splitter-1-Mini/dp/B00004Z5CP
    This will be attached to the audio output port.
    Ciao.
    Message was edited by: OGELTHORPE

  • TV@nywhere Plus Cable problem

    Hello folks...
    I have recently gotten a TV@nywhere Plus card and installed it in my machine.  It scans for channels and seems to find them, but the picture quality is terrible.  However,  If I choose antenna as the input it picks up the channels 2 to 12 and the picture is great! (I don't have an antenna connected, so the signal just is picked up out of the air) But, as soon as I choose the Cable input it sucks.  I live in Canada and my machine is an AMD 1800+ with a MSI KT3 Ultra motherboard, 1 GB of RAM, a MSI FX 5500 viodeo card, Running XP Home with service pack 2 and all updates applied
    Hope someone can help,
    Nets

    Lets start from the bottom and work up. Have you eliminated the cable & splitter hookup as the source of the problem by connecting to a TV? I had a problem similar to that when I first installed my TV@Plus and I had to remove/re-install the software and get a new cable & splitter before I could get it work.. No you don't need to use RG6. It does not hurt to have better but it's not a requirement.

  • Cable to connect audio out to TV?

    What kind of cable do I need to get audio from my iBook G4 to play (along w/ the video, whose cable I have) through my TV? Is it this 1:
    http://store.apple.com/us/product/TN983LL/A?mco=MzE2OTkzMQ
    Thanks,
    Nick

    Yes, the one in that link would work, but you could also get one through another vendor, such as Amazon:
    http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Audio-Cable-Splitter-1-Mini/dp/B00004Z5CP
    I picked up one at Target for $10 or less.
    ~Lyssa

  • Cable help w/ mbp circa august 2006

    dvi, hdmi, vga...it's like a different language.
    my macbook pro circa august 2006 has finally been demoted to my streaming machine. i'd like to hook it up to my tv so i can watch netflix  on it.
    my tv only has an hdmi connect, no dvi or vga.
    my computer (i thought) has no hmdi, only dvi.
    i ordered 3 cables: hdmi cord, mini audio cord, then an hdmi-->dvi converted cord.
    the audio one works fine, but the dvi-->hdmi one doesnt fit.
    help! what do i need?!? in english please! not weird cord language.
    what i've ordered:
    http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Meters/dp/B003L1ZYYM/re f=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1316838825&sr=8-2
    http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-Adapter-Cable-Meters/dp/B001TH7T2U/ref=s r_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1316838847&sr=1-2
    http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&q=audio+mini+cable&gs_upl=2540l3155 l0l3269l6l5l0l0l0l0l202l614l2.2.1l5l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&biw=1649&bih=882&um =1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=7136506411847869432&sa=X&ei=2l19TrHkFsq5tgfih5Rx&ved=0C F4Q8gIwAQ

    OK...I am making some progress! I went back to look at the cords and realized that amazon sent me 2 hdmi cords instead of the converter. So I went out and bought a dvi/hdmi converter, and now the screen is working. The audio, however, is not. Do I need to go buy an audio splitter? (Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Audio-Cable-Splitter-1-Mini/dp/B00004Z5CP).
    The screen situation opens up a whole new world of questions. Any advice on the screen settings? When I plug in the cord, it splits the screen and when I hit "enter full screen," it doesn't pick it up to full screen it on the tv. I had to it by hand instead and just go through all the screen size options until I found one that worked (any advice?). And then some of my movies in itunes show up, but some don't ("For the Birds," will show up, but my digital copy that came with the DVD of "Wall-e" does not). What gives?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated. Apologies for the question upon question upon question...

  • Set up Time Capsule w/ belkin modem/router AND DSL splitter

    G'day,
    I've got an existing network set up and would like to add the Time Capsule into the network. I'd like to use my current hardware if possible but am willing to purchase stuff if I need to.
    There are some posts on my model of Belkin modem/router, but it didn't really help me.
    Here are my machines:
    1) PC - desktop (ethernet networking card, Windows 7,
    2) Laptop (wireless networking, Windows 7)
    3) Macbook Air (wireless networking)
    4) iPhone (wireless networking)
    Here are my hardware:
    A) Wall socket
    B) DSL splitter (3 x ports - port for line, port for phone, port for modem)
    C) Cordless phone
    D) Belkin modem/router (model number F5D7633-4A - 1 x ADSL port, 4 x Ethernet cable ports)
    E) Time Capsule
    Here is my current set up:
    Wall socket > phone cable > Splitter > phone cable to phone, phone cable to modem/router > ethernet cable from modem/router to PC
    This solution gives me internet access via the ethernet cable to the PC and via the Belkin modem/router wirelessly to the Laptop. However, I haven't been able to connect my Macbook Air to this network yet - it doesn't seem to work.
    So my question is, how can I include my Time Capsule into the network. Will I need another modem? I read about a bridge but I have no idea what that is or where to find that setting.
    Also, can someone explain how to get my Macbook Air to connect to the network?
    Can someone talk me through exactly what extra hardware I need and what I need to do to set it all up?
    Cheers,
    Chris

    Hi Bob,
    Thanks for chiming in. Could you talk me through how to do that? I'm a numpty and just haven't figured out which ports to plug which cords into, etc. If you or someone else could dumb it really right down that would be sweet.
    Also, the Belkin is a modem/router, not a router. I am under the assumption that I need a modem to access the internet and that the Time Capsule is just a router.
    Is that right?
    Chris

  • Alternativas cable spitter auriculares y mic - B590

    Estimados,
    es muy valioso el aporte de todos. Les consulto, ya que he estado viendo en los hilos:
    https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Serie-B-y-G/Micr%C3%B3fono-no-funciona-con-cable-splitter/m-p/1825134#M...
    o
    https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/ThinkPad-Edge-Knowledge-Base/Micr%C3%B3fono-auriculares-splitter-necesa...
    sobre el cable splitter necesario para poder conectar en una B590 un microfono externo, ya que en Argentina, no he visto mucha variedad de estos cables / adaptadores, y con diferencias de precio de AR$ 50 a AR$ 325, lo que me parece un robo a mano armada por este cablecito...
    En resumen: ¿Es lo mismo cualquier cable splitter de 4 vias, aunque figure que es para 2 auriculares, y no para 1 auricular y 1 mic??? Mi duda es si son de las 2 conexiones de entrada salida, o son solo salida.
    Ej. de uno de $60:
    Ej. del de $325 (alta nano hiper tecnologia...):
    Ambos serían de 4 vias en el macho. Pero lo mas importante... ¿no quemo nada si compro el mas barato???
    Gracias y saludos,
    MARTIN.

    Estimados,
    muy valioso el aporte de todos. Les consulto, ya que han estado viendo este tema un tiempo, ya que en Argentina, no he visto mucha variedad de estos cables / adaptadores, y con diferencias de precio de AR$ 50 a AR$ 325, lo que me parece un robo a mano armada...
    Es lo mismo cualquier cable splitter de 4 vias, aunque figure que es para 2 auriculares, y no para 1 auricular y 1 mic??? Mi duda es si son de las 2 conexiones de entrada salida, o son solo salida.
    Ej. de uno de $60:
    Ej. del de $325 (alta nano hiper tecnologia...):
    Ambos serían de 4 vias en el macho. Pero lo mas importante... no quemo nada si compro el mas barato???
    Gracias y saludos,
    MARTIN.

  • Bad cable spliter? Advice needed!

     Hello Comcast community, Long story short, my service does not work when passing through the provided 4-way cable splitter, but when bypassed, I am able to receive service 1 device at a time. (ie. Cable Modem or Xfinity DVR) I do not fully understand Comcas't coax, but I am guessing this is a splitter issue and not a signal strength issue? (How much power would it realisticly loose when passing through the splitter). This worked for about a month before completely crapping out. My question... I want to go purchase a new one to get my family back up ASAP. Can someone tell me what I am looking for exactly? All seem to have differetn MHz and GHz ratings on them, so I want to be sure I pick up one that works well with the Xfinity system.
    Would a 5MHz - 1GHz splitter work? Should I get a powered one? I want a good one that will last for a while... Thank you!

    Update: Replaced splitter, still no signal. Comcast Tech coming out to check signal strength from street...

  • Unplugging all network devices from Fios router prevents DVR freezing and remote control lock ups.

    All,
    I recently had a Verizon tech visit my house due to constant DVR and remote control freezing. TV content was freezing whether it was locally recorded, pulled from another DVR in the house, or On Demand. On a hunch after the tech tested everything and was about to leave, he unplugged my gigabit switch from the Fios router. Lo and behold everything started running perfectly. Since to the tech, the problem was solved, he closed the case and was on his way. The probem is of course I have more devices than the built in router switch provides ports for. My network is compised of an 8 port Netgear gigabit switch downstream from the Fios router with two wireless access points (with their own built in gigbait switches) connecting to the Netgear gigabit switch. There are no loops in the switch topology. I've tried changing out the router, the gigabit switch, removing the wireless acces points individually as well as plugging the access points directly into the Fios router switch (one at a time with no Netgear switch in the middle) and all scenarious cause the DVR/remote control freeezing to come back. The only devices I can plug into the Fios router without causing freezes are PC's....anything with it's own switch essentially brings the network to it's knees. If anyone has an idea how to get my network back in one piece AND make the DVR's/remotes behave, I'd greatly appreciate the help!
    My Fios equipment:
    MI-424WR GEN-3I  rev I (eye) running firmware 40.19.36
    5 Motorola HD-DVRs all QIP 7232-2 running software release 1.9.1 platform build 25.39 (Oct. 22, 2012)
    Specific config:
    75/35 Fios connecting via ethernet from ONT. Set-top boxes connect to Fios router coax port via powered splitter.
    *All SNR/dB mesasurements taken by the tech from the set-top boxes and router are well within spec.
    Fios router provides DHCP addressing. Wireless N access points are configured for roaming with the same SSID and non-overlapping channels. Access points are not providing routing or IP adressing...all layer 3 and up services still provided by Fios router
    Diagram:
    ONT
      |
    Fios Router ---------Cable Splitter---------Set Top Boxes
      |
    Netgear Switch
      |           |
    WAP1    WAP2

    WayfarerII wrote:
    ... DVR ... remote ... freezing ... TV ... whether ... locally recorded, pulled from another DVR ... 
    ... tech ... unplugged my gigabit switch from the Fios router ... and ... everything started running perfectly ...   
    ... config:
    75/35 Fios ... via ethernet from ONT ... Set-top boxes connect to Fios router via powered splitter ...
    ONT
      |
      | cat5
      |
    Fios Router ---------Cable Splitter---------Set Top Boxes
      |
    Netgear Switch
      |           |
    WAP1    WAP2
    I am inclined to echo several of the "tns" comments, particularly with respect to your splitter.  My layout is based on a standard 8-port splitter of the type usually supplied in a VZ install.  In addition I do have a ChannelPlus device that functions as a powered splitter, but its use is limited to distribution of secondary TV signals to older analog TVs.  My first point then is that this may be an offender as "tns" has suggested.
    In addition, I'd describe your wiring as "non-standard" (red-colored items in the above diagram)  As you're no doubt aware, with 75/35 you don't really need Cat5e from the ONT (your original diagram).  It seems the highest tiers do require it, but in "standard" installations this run is coax directly to an 8-port non-powered splitter (below diagram), then from that splitter via coax to all STBs and CableCards, other TVs, et.), and also to the Actiontec.   Subsequent feeds from the Actiontec to wired devices (including WAPs) are via Ethernet (typically Cat 5e).
    In fact I don't immediately see how your STBs get additional services such as On Demand and IMG with the wiring shown in your diagram (perhaps someone can help me out here).  In "standard" installs the Actiontec must be connected via coax to the ONT to provide such services to other network clients.  I don't see that requirement being met here.
    For starters I'd recommend that you change your service from WAN Ethernet to WAN coax.  This can easily be accomplished over the telephone.  Then I'd run coax directly from the ONT to the Actiontec as in my revised diagram below (blue-colored items).  If your setup can manage with this arrangement, I think it will help greatly with the "freezing" issue.
    ONT - - - - - - coax - - - - -
                                             |
    Fios Router --- coax--- Standard 8-Port Splitter --- coax --- Set Top Boxes
    |cat5
    Netgear Switch
    |cat5           |cat5
    WAP1 WAP2
    Subsequent Note:  You provided additional info while I was composing a response, and I'd  like to offer another comment.  Structured wiring "panels" of the type usually available are pre-configured to provide data, phone and video.  This usually means that one is in certain respects limited by the ideas of the panel designer.  I have what can be called a structured wiring layout, but it really is composed of individual small custom networks for  each service (automation, security, video, data, telco, etc.), configured so that all wiring terminates in "home run" fashion at a central panel (a few details here: http://forums.verizon.com/t5/Home-Networking/Cmon-Show-Us-Your-Network/m-p/481733#M765 ).  This layout makes it easier to make adjustments (and there have been quite a few over the intervening years).  I'm thinking that in your case you may have to abandon the powered splitter (presumably) built into the panel in order to avoid your present fix.
    Subsequent Subsequent Note:   From your description it seems that you are using more than a single "whole house" DVR to supply programming to other devices.  This is a bit puzzling to me because somewhere along the line I recall reading that only a single whole house DVR was allowed on the network.  Can you elaborate a bit?

  • Display Options Help Needed to connect to TV

    Hi
    I am a New Mac User and have My macbook pro running Bootcamp with Windows Vista, However I have got the Computer Plugged into my Tv using the Mini DVI to s-video adapter and works fine when running leopard ( plug and auto works ) however when on the windows I cannot make it work on the TV , I have tried changing display setting , extending to 2nd monitor ,etc .. but nothing I do seems to work ..
    So if anyone has any idea , or do I need a Windows Vista for Mac driver for the DVI port or Something ??? where can I get , and what do I need ..
    Anyway all and any Help s Appriciated
    Thanks For help All

    Sorry, I thought it was myTV device you were asking about. My situation differs: cable company service which includes TV & Broadband split by ~$10 cable splitter with co-ax into cable modem & ~$100 myTV.PVR which is USB to MacPro.
    More here on your problem:
    http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=7179753
    (Just tried this with my new Penryn 2.4 Macbook purchased last week. Hooked up the mini-DVI to VGA adapter to my LCD monitor, booted up in Windows (via Bootcamp), and set both monitors to 1024 x 768. It works flawlessly. The quality on my 18" Sun LCD monitor is wonderful!)
    Richard

  • Starting up...one moment please

    While i'd been very satisfied with the quality after switching over from TW, in less than a month, I suffered the 1st issue.  Both my STB (non dvr) stopped working at the same time.  1st telling me channel is not available, press B to troubleshoot, then proceeded to getting starting up...one moment please.  Restarting components did not resolve.  Internet, fortunately, still worked.  I used the home agent/live chat, and was able to get a customer rep in < 3 mins.  Not too bad, considering it's Fri evening on a holiday weekend.  Rep followed scripted procedure, ie. sending command to reset router...etc.  Problem persisted, and he determined it could be a bad splitter, and setup an onsite service appt for Monday.
    It's a new install, so it's not confidence inspiring to have components failing so soon.  The rep stated there's no area wide issue, but is anyone aware of issues impacting NYC UES?
    Or if you'd experienced this before, was the diagnostic/resolution consistent to a splitter issue?

    1. Do you have an ONT inside you unit with fiber running to it, if you are in an apartment of condo?
    2. What Model equipment do you have?
    3. Have you tried disconnecting the STBs at the splitter and swapping the connections one at a time? Leaving the Router connected of course. The Internet works so there is no use in messing with that.
    4. You may be able to get one TV up and running.
    I have not seen a bad splitter unless you get some type of power surge or short in one of the cables. Some have reported one going bad. Usually they work out of the box or they don't. If you have vDSL with a separate VDSL box next to the router, it could be a bad router killing the TV signal. Other than # 3, you will probably need to wait for a tech, or get a bi-directional cable splitter from Radio Shack or somewhere else, if you are really desperate for TV. But it may not be a bad splitter, and at that point you would have wasted money, or replaced something that Verizon owes you.
    Monday is a Holiday for many of us, so we will not be working anyway. If you can get them out and have an appointment for Monday, I would say great!
    It never hurts to have a second set of eyes on someone else's install. I read where in one apartment the previous installer left off a low pass filter on the customers cable so the customers were seeing each others hardware which can also cause problems. The filter was located in the utility closet. But could also be installed in the unit.

  • Help setting up Creative Inspire T6100 (5.1) to HP Laptop

    Hi I recently bought Creative Inspire T600 (5.) speakers. I am unable to connect this to my HP DV6T laptop having only one input for speakers where as creative t600 has 3 pins in black, orange and green colors. I am stuck here. Could anyone please tell me how to connect the 5. speakers to my laptop? Appreciate your help.
    Arun.K.S

    Not really 100% sure (I only have a Creative T3030 2.1 that has a single 3.5mm jack) but from everything that I Googled, it looks like a stereo 3.5mm to RCA adapter and a Logitech 5.1 Game Console Adapter should work.
    http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Audio-Cable-Splitter-1-Mini/dp/B00004Z5CP/ref=pd_si m_e_5
    http://www.amazon.com/Console-Adapter-Convert-Plugs-Single/dp/B0006U3ACY/ref=pd_ bxgy_e_img_b
    But to be safe, it might be best to check with Creative and see what they recommend for connecting it to the iMac.
    http://us.store.creative.com/Inspire-T6100/M/B000LIDLV6.htm
    Dennis

  • Location of ONT, PSU/battery, Router, STB, phone adapter

    I am intending to convert from TimeWarner cable TV/internet and regular landline phone to FIOS triple essentials.  A couple weeks ago an installer came to string the fiber from the pole to the roof eve.  I talked to him and understood that the ONT would go under the eve near where the existing phone lightning surge arrestor and TV/internet cable splitter are now located.  Outputs from the ONT would connect directly into the phone wires, the TV cable, and the cable to the computer (modem) router which are all grouped right there under the eve.  The only additional wiring would need to be from the PSU/battery to the ONT.
    A different installer came to my house yesterday to put in the FIOS equipment and make the connections.  He said he needed to put the ONT within 12 ft of the electric utility meter and run his own grounding wire to the ONT because the existing grounding wire for the existing surge arrestor and CableTV was too long (it is about 30 ft).  He said the existing grounding wire did not comply with newer changes to building code.  I won't argue with that, but it caused a problem because he wanted to also put the PSU/battery near the ONT.  The only nearby AC outlet was thru the wall into the formal living room where the PSU/battery would be located.  Wife, and I, rejected that.  The installers only alternative proposal was to have me, at my expense, hire an electrician to mount an exterior weatherproof box near the AC meter and run conduit/wires from the breaker/meter box to this new box.  The new box needs to be large enough to contain an AC outlet and the PSU/battery (14" x 10" x 3.5").  I estimate this would be a several hundred $$ expense, which I really don't care to spend.  Also, the location of this box on the outside wall is in direct afternoon sun where temperatures would get very hot.  This is not good for the PSU electronics nor for the battery (which I understand is my problem to replace when it fails).
    So, my questions are: 
       What is the maximum distance allowable between the ONT and the PSU/battery?
       What type of wiring (gauge, voltage rating, number of conductors, etc) is needed to connect the ONT to the PSU/battery?
    There is an indoor broom closet about 18 ft from the utility meter.  If the PSU/battery is put in this closet, it would be easy to run low voltage wires thru the attic and thru the outside wall to the ONT under the eve near the AC meter.  If the installer did not sign-up to do attic wiring then I would be willing to do this myself.  It sure beats hiring an electrician to install an outdoor box.  The outdoor box would probably also need a building permit, whereas the low voltage wiring would not.
    The above described trouble also got me thinking about other installation issues:
    How does the phone wiring get 48Vdc bias?  Does this come from the PSU/battery via the ONT, and delivered to tip-ring wiring out of the ONT?
    Does the TV signal come out of the ONT, via coax cable and connect directly into the RG59 house cabling and splitters from multiple TVs?
    A SetTopBox goes at the other end of this coax, near the main TV in the family room, right?  Does the STB also need a cat5 cable to it?
    Do I need to rent another STB at the TV in the bedroom?  I've heard that there are simple converter boxes that let you use the TV's own tuner to select channel.  True?
    Does the STB have an output for FM radio antenna connection, or do I get the music channels directly from the STB via audio band RCA cables?
    Does computer (internet data) connect to the ONT or to the STB?  This is cat5, right?  Internet used to travel via coax from the eve to a cable modem in the home office.  Will the installer replace that coax with cat5?
    Does the new FIOS router have at least 3 RJ45 ports (for other computers, X-box/Playstation) as well as wireless for laptops?
    Can the new FIOS router also act as a hub for home network data/printer sharing?
    Are there interconnect diagrams available anywhere on the Verizon website (or other sites) that can  help me understand?
    Thanks in advance to anyone that can answer any of my questions.

    The above described trouble also got me thinking about other installation issues:
    How does the phone wiring get 48Vdc bias?  Does this come from the PSU/battery via the ONT, and delivered to tip-ring wiring out of the ONT?
    Does the TV signal come out of the ONT, via coax cable and connect directly into the RG59 house cabling and splitters from multiple TVs?
    A SetTopBox goes at the other end of this coax, near the main TV in the family room, right?  Does the STB also need a cat5 cable to it?
    Do I need to rent another STB at the TV in the bedroom?  I've heard that there are simple converter boxes that let you use the TV's own tuner to select channel.  True?
    Does the STB have an output for FM radio antenna connection, or do I get the music channels directly from the STB via audio band RCA cables?
    Does computer (internet data) connect to the ONT or to the STB?  This is cat5, right?  Internet used to travel via coax from the eve to a cable modem in the home office.  Will the installer replace that coax with cat5?
    Does the new FIOS router have at least 3 RJ45 ports (for other computers, X-box/Playstation) as well as wireless for laptops?
    Can the new FIOS router also act as a hub for home network data/printer sharing?
    Are there interconnect diagrams available anywhere on the Verizon website (or other sites) that can  help me understand?
    Thanks in advance to anyone that can answer any of my questions.
    FIOS provides phone service by providing POTS Emulation.  On my installation all of the internal phones ring just fine so I am assuming that the ONT is providing the necesssary voltage, A single COAX Connection comes out of the ONT and goes to a splitter which will then connect to your houses COAX Wiring.  This contains TV Information as well as the Default Data Connection for your Router (Can be changed to CAT5). TVs with a QAM Tuner can receive Local Channels and Music Channels without a STB.  If you require any addition channels, Guide Information, PPV, On-Demmand, or any other FIOS Services you will require a STB.  There is a Digital Adapter that will receive SD Channels, but nothing else.
    No FM Radio Connection.  The STB receives the music channels just like other tv channels. Router (Computer Data) connects to the ONT via COAX by Default.  It can be provisioned to use CAT5 if needed and if you have pre run the wiring from the ONT to your Router Location. The Router has 4 RJ45 Port for Hardwired Connections and Wireless G Connectivity. The Router will allow all of the devices that connect thru it to be part of your home network.  You can not attach a printer or external hard drive to the router.  You can however use a NAS. There are many different ways, each with their own pros and cons, to configure the router or to use multiple routers.  Additional infomation can be found here:
    Verizon Online FIOS FAQ
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