Calendar photo quality problem

Is there anything that I can do to improve on the low quality print warning that shows up on many of my calendar photos? Is there some adjustment other than selecting fit to frame? Many of these photos were emailed to me from relatives. Most of them are from point and shoot cameras. What is RGB? The photos are in jpeg format. I'm afraid, after many hours of work, that they won't print well. Any suggestions would be appreciatd

Welcome to the Apple Discussions. What are some of the pixel dimensions of the photos giving the warning? Apple gives that warning when the resolution falls below 180 dpi. So for a 5x7 frame you would get a warning if you photo was smaller than 1260 x 900. Knowing what the pixel dimensions of the photos are can let you estimate how much under the 180 limit the photo is for the size of the frame in the calendar you put it in. I personally wouldn't worry at 150 dpi as I've printed at that level before and go good results. It's all depends on what your expectations are.
As far a the color profile goes I doubt any of the jpgs would have CMYK. Digital cameras don't use that color mode.
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto (iPhoto.Library for iPhoto 5 and earlier) database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger or later), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 6 and 7 libraries and Tiger and Leopard. Just put the application in the Dock and click on it whenever you want to backup the dB file. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.
Note: There's now an Automator backup application for iPhoto 5 that will work with Tiger or Leopard.

Similar Messages

Photo quality problem in iWeb 08?

I'm still using iWeb '06 but thinking of upgrading. When the '08 version was new I saw some reports that photos handled by '08 were of lesser quality than that provided by iWeb '06. Is there any truth to this? If so, was it fixed?
My main use of iWeb is to post photos...

Wyodor,
Yes, I agree, and use ImageWell to reduce resolution and adjust dimensions of photos for the web.
The information I had read was that there was a noticeable decline in quality after photos were uploaded through iWeb 08. (All other factors being equal.) That had given me second thoughts about upgrading, but upon learning it was not true, I did buy iLife 08 and am very pleased with the new features in iWeb and iPhoto.
ImageWell
www.xtralean.com/IWOverview.html
(no affiliation with this product)

Calendar photo quality

How can I tell the DPI level on each photo on my calendar? Does clicking on info tell me that ? I only see the KB level and image size? Is that related? Can I convert any of that info to determine if the photo will print OK?

1 - image size divided by print size will give you dpi (a 3000 x 2400 printed 10" x 8" will print at 300 dpi)
2 - if you use a photo that will print at less than 180 dpi you will get a yellow warning triangle to warn you
3 - for more information read +The Myth of DPI+ - http://www.rideau-info.com/photos/mythdpi.html
LN

Problem with photo quality when exporting interactive pdf

Hi guys!
I made a simple pdf with before/after retouching samples with photos overlayed, changing on mouse rollover.
When I export it as an interactive pdf (on lossless jpeg quality), the photo quality on the final pdf looks like a jpeg on 40% quality, really bad. Rollover works.
When I export it as a pdf for print on high quality - the photo quality in the final pdf is flawless but rollovers dont work.. (I checked "Interactive Elements: Include Appearance) but still nothing..
Pleeease help cause I can't find a way. I just need the rollovers to work and to have the photos in the best quality possible.
Thanks,
Jelena

If you haven't already you need to change the resolution as well. Like this:
72ppi is the default which in theory should be fine for on screen viewing, but play around and use what works for you.

Contacts/calendar/photos

Since updating my iPhone 4 to iOS5 I can no longer edit my contacts or add items to calendar. Also having problems with photos, quality looks great in thumbnail then open and it's rubbish, also not showing all pics, some come up grey, and a lot are black (photos took ok and originally were showing up)

I'd look into dropbox.com for transferring photos.
To transfer contacts, see
http://www.copytrans.net/support/how-to-transfer-contacts-from-windows-phone-to- iphone/
http://www.iphonehacks.com/2013/09/switching-from-windows-phone-to-iphone-5s-5c- how-to-transfer-data.html
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1528547

Photo Quality in iDVD

I work with still photos only. Want a slideshow that maintains photo image quality. iMovie coverts to video file & degrades the quality. Changed to FotoMagico. Maintains photo quality in slideshow & offers transitions, KB effect & title slides. It exports to iDVD or Roxio Toast to burn DVD. After the burn in iDVD, the images are distorted and the transition movements are very choppy. Is iDVD coverting this to video images, thereby degrading the photo quality? Is there a way to use iDVD and maintain quality? Would Toast be better? My goal is to produce a photographic quality "still photo" slideshow using transitions, KB, etc. I am selecting NTSC 4:3, best quality in both programs. Getting very frustrated trying to output the quality I can see on my display in a DVD...any suggestion?

Hi,
I feel like I am back at school...
1. I have the BETA version because when I tried to export or burn a DVD neither worked. They knew that was a problem & sent me the BETA fix. Now I can burn or export.
2. My problem is whatever I do with the burn results in loss of image quality. I have been corresponding with Werner at FotoMagico who has been very helpful. He says image quality from still photos which have been authored & burned can not maintain image quality the technology just doesn't exist unless I go to a pro DVD lab and have them work with compressions per frame. He specifically said it is due to limitations with the MPEG-2 stream, which is standard in DVD playback. The little I have read on this is over my head.
3. Right now I will forgo the idea of playback on a TV. Let's just deal with computer. When I burn to DVD as my option and it opens in iDVD it results in degraded images. I don't know what to select in iDVD and or FotoMagico to change this result or if it is even possible. I run a G5 with a 23" monitor, most current software on ALL prgrams. Picture files are digital froma Nikon D200 and a mix of negative and slides scanned in with a Nikon CoolScan 5000 and moved into iPhoto via the scanner or a transfer from Adobe. I am having the problem with all these types. What do you mean by resolution in iPhoto?
4. I transfer from FotoMagico to iDVD by selecting 'Burn DVD' and it opens to 'iDVD'. I have left all settings on FotoMagico and iDVD at default settings and Werner said that should be okay. FYI - I have tried changing slideshow setting from display reolution to 23" monitor to NTSC. Nothing seems to change image quality.
5. I would like at this point to be able to maintain image quality for transer in Quick time, upload to .MAC web account, etc. Help me there I am lost.
6. Someone on this discussion also suggested burning to iDVD using the data portion only of the DVD using disk utility. I need help there. Also will that reproduce sound or only the photos. I understand that TV's and DVD players will not accept this mode and that is okay until someone figures out a way to maintain image quality for TV w/o an expensive lab.
7. Werner said this is possible but they suggest copying the entire package (document as well as images and audio) and move it to iDVD or Toast. On the target devise install a FOtoMagico demo version & run it there. or if the target machine is not a Mac & FotoMagico can 't be nstalled there, you can export manually to a QuickTime movie by selecting 'export' frpm the File menu. Use 'HD preset or 'QuicltTime' & burn the resulting file to a DVD. My husband & I will work on this (with a tech if nec) and maybe you have some thoughts as well.
At the end of this I think I will know more about video and FPS and MPEg's than I ever intended. Oh well, a little knowledge never hurt anyone!
One last thing, what is a BETA for NTSC. I hate to bug Werner again without knowing what this is!

Crunmmy photo quality in Safari

I get poor quality photos quality using Safari in any site.No problem with Firefox.My daughter running e-Mac with same Mac system no problem with Safari. New to Mac and a bit disappointed,I thought Mac were the tops for graphics & photos.Any ideas please. Many thanks

Hi Tools,
Try turning off the accelerator, I'll bet that is the culprit.
The accelerators usually downsample the picture quality to reduce the filesize of the images at the expense of quality, but improving speed.
I think they usually work by directing requests to a proxy server - in firefox you normally have to set this manually which may be why it appears to work fine, but Safari doesn't.
Enjoy your sleep and catch you tomorrow...

Photo quality on IDVD

Photo quality is poor when IDVD is shown on TV,
What can I do to improve quality?
Photos look good on PowerBook.

Photo quality is poor when IDVD is shown on TV,
What can I do to improve quality?
Photos look good on PowerBook.
we have the same problem, however when we showed them on a friends High def TV -they looked great?
if you find out anymore info I too wuld like to know
IMac Mac OS X (10.4.6) G-4

Photo quality follow-up questions

I read OT's response to a photo quality question and had some follow-ups I'd like to ask. Aside from cropping photos to 4:3 format does increasing the dpi of the photos have any effect in improving the quality of the final image in iDVD?
I'm making a dvd of family photos for my wife. Some were taken with a digital camera, some are photos scanned by myself and some are photos given to us by relatives that they scanned. I'm putting them together in iMovie, leaving them static - no pans or zooms, keeping the image size at a value of "1", setting the duration at 5 seconds and grouping them by subject using chapter markers so I can get around the 99 photos limitation. (I have over 1500 photos.)
I've already burned on dvd and was disappointed by the "jaggies" on most of the photos when viewed on my cinema display. Haven't looked at the dvd on a regular tv (CRT, not flat screen/digital). The images looked great in iMovie. It occurred to me that increasing the dpi - most were at 72 dpi - to 300 might improve this issue all other things remaining the same. I can do that easily in Photoshop, but was wondering if that would be a waster of time - especially if no improvement would be realized.
Thanks for any thoughts/help that anyone can offer.

iMovie HD 6.0.3 and iDVD 6.0.4
As far as I know - this will give max quality possibly when making a Video-DVD
resolution: 72dpi or 300dpi
depends on size
A small picture 200 x 300 pixels - will be worse than a 1200 x 1600 picture.
Resolution doesn't matter as I see it.
iMovie and/or iDVD will try to scale it to fit - and up or down-scaling
will not be done kindly.
Still using my 2016 × 1512 - usually give good result in iMovie
but if I Share to iDVD (iMovie HD6 6.0.3 or 4) - BAD RESULT
I just close the iMovie project
Drop the iMovie project icon (With a black star on it) into the iDVD application (menu window).
Result best possibly for a Video-DVD - DVD standard is the limit.
Else that determine the final quality on the DVD
DVD quality
1. iDVD 08, 09 & 11 has three levels of qualities. (version 7.0.1, 7,0.4 & 7.1.1) and iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - BEST (but not always for short movies e.g. up to 45 minutes in total)
• Best Performances
(movies + menus less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD (Can be best for short movies)
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6)
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
Menu can take 15 minutes or even more - I use a very simple one with no audio or animation like ”Brushed Metal” in old Themes.
About double on DL DVDs.
2. Video from
• FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not self-containing, no conversion)
• iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
when the movie includes photos and the Ken Burns effect NOT is used. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
• iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly e.g. x4 or x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application when burning from a DiskImage.
4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc). For SD-Video - if HD-material is used I guess that 4 to 5 times more would do.
5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW) - DVD-R play’s on more and older DVD-Players
7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
(I use JES_Deinterlacer to keep frame per sec. same from editing to the Video-DVD result.)
8. Don’t burn more than three DVDs at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while before next batch.
iDVD quality also depends on.
• DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
deliver anything better that this.
HD-DVD was a short-lived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-Player.
Blu-Ray / BD can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
_ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl. BD-component
_ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
_ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to playback
The BD-encoded DVDs can be play-backed IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
• HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx. 25Gb.
less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
• How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
• Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
• Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera record in = 100% to iDVD
• What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
• What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
(If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JES_Deinterlacer_3.2.2 do the conversion)
(Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
(US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
(EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
UNLESS. They are play-backed by a Mac - then You need not to care
• What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
• How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
Best / High Performances (most often my choice before Pro Quality)
1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
(x4 by some and may be even better)
2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
Region codes.
iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
1 = US
2 = EU
unclemano wrote
What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
to get this to work I
• Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
• Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
• Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
• No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
• and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
• and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start a brand new iDVD project
• Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
• Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
Try to break the process up into two stages
• Save as a DiskImage (calculating part)
• Burn from this .img file (burning stage)
To isolate where the problem starts.
Another thing is - Playing it onto a Blu-Ray Player. My PlayStation3 can play BD-disks but not all of my home made DVDs so to get this to work I
• Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
• Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
• Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
• No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
• and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
• and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start a brand new iDVD project
• Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
• Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
• Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
• No other programs running in BackGround e.g. Energy-Saver
• Don’t let HD spin down or be turned off (in Energy-Save)
• Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
• Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
• Set screen-saver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
• No File Vault on - Important
• NO - TimeMachine - during iMovie/iDVD work either ! IMPORTANT
• Lot's of icons on DeskTop/Finder also slows down the Mac noticeably
• Start a new User-Account and log into this and iMovie get's faster too - if a project is in a hurry
• And let Mac run on Mains - not just on battery
Yours Bengt W

Photo Quality Photosmart 7520

Verticle lines, close together, in picture.
Printing from my pictures, Windows 7 OS, to HP Photosmart 7520 all in one.
Have cleaned cartridges twice and realigned several times. Useing "Best" setting and quality hp photo paper.
I wonder if it is the design of the printer, which has 5 ink cartridges. Our old HP photosmart printer used two cartridges and printed perfect pictures, however, it has given up the ghost, and, thus, our new printer, which, so far, is rather disapointing. All help apreciated.
sreidrobby

Hi sreidrobby,
Welcome to the HP Support Forums. I see that you are experiencing a print quality issue when trying to print photos with your Photosmart 7520 printer.
I have included the Fixing Ink Streaks, Faded Prints, and Other Common Print Quality Problems document. It has the steps for correcting the issue that you are seeing.
Please let me know how things go.
Regards,
Happytohelp01
Please click on the Thumbs Up on the right to say “Thanks” for helping!
Please click “Accept as Solution ” on the post that solves your issue to help others find the solution.
I work on behalf of HP

Photo quality may be too low to print???? how to fix this

I made a new photo album. a yellow error sign appears in the corner of each photo and says, Photo quality may be too low to print. how can i fix this. THANK YOU

I had the same concerns when I started making my calendars on iPhoto but I went ahead anyway. Unless you are an absolute stickler for perfect photos (i.e., no grain, top quality, etc.) your photos will print just fine even though you get the yellow warning sign. Now, if you can hardly see the photo on your computer, or it's like really badly out of focus, etc., you, of course, not be pleased because WYSIWYG. I've scanned photos in and put them in iPhoto -- and these were very important to me and my family. I added them to the calendars and I was very pleased with the final products. I've probably made 20 calendars and each one has had at least 3 or 4 of the scanned in photos.
Use common sense and if it looks really bad to you, don't use it. If the photo is acceptable to you, it will probably print out just fine.
Good luck - I LOVE these calendars - they make FANTASTIC Christmas gifts.
MR

Poor CD photo quality

After creating a slideshow, adding audio, then burning slideshow to CD or DVD, the CD or DVD photo quality is terribly out of focus. Pictures are blurry, or generally distorted. The photoshop images are clean and focused. What is the problem here, and how might I fix it
Thanks
email at [email protected]
CTP

If you only have PSE and are making a VCD, you bet it's lousy. That's just the limitation of the format. Better to output your slideshow as a wmv file and then use whatever burning software you have (if you have a DVD burner, you have the software) to make it into a video dvd.

QUALITY PROBLEM FASH STORAGE

I bough my MacBook Air in 2013, after 2 years using only internet, photos and music, nothing havy, I updated my OS X Yosemite and my computer turned off and never turn on again, with a question folder on it.
I look for the online support, I made step by step that exist on website and nothing happen. Even the chat support I did! However, nothing change and nobody could help me from apple.
So, I took my MacBook to the authorized technician support, that even the technical could not explain to me what happend with my flash storage, I totaly lost it.
I know that have a poor lot of flash storage that was sold between 2012 and 2013, the year I bough, but was in August and they said that the bad quality lot was until June, who guarantee me that was not this quality lot?
The problem of my computer for sure was a quality problem, I didnt used in a bad way.
The budged of the service is too high, almost a price of Sansung laptop, and I am wander if someone can give me a solution or something that can help, because apple didnt reply my quality problem, nobody nows why the computer is off and is pretty new.
I'm out of USA and hope to get my solution soon, because its a disrespect with the consumer.
If someone can give me a reply, I will appreciated.

Hi guys
I have the same problem however I am able to retrieve and play back the audio files but bnot able to retrieve screen capture video files
I am also migrated it to network storage. Video files are being uploaded to the new location with nno issues but they are not being able to be retrieved any suggestion
I am getting the following messages:
The message they are getting is as follows:
There are two windows appearing quickly saying that the files are decoded and initialized successfully. Then we get the window displaying” connecting to video file please wait while a connection is established
The message they are getting is as follows:
There are two windows appearing quickly saying that the files are decoded and initialized successfully. Then we get the window displaying” connecting to video file please wait while a connection is established
The message they are getting is as follows:
There are two windows appearing quickly saying that the files are decoded and initialized successfully. Then we get the window displaying” connecting to video file please wait while a connection is established. then is stays there and does not retrieve files
Abdul

Poor photo quality when importing slide show into Elements 10

Hello,
I'm using Elements and Photoshop Elements 10 on Vista.
What I'm trying to do is import a slide show I made in Photoshop in to a movie I'm making so that the slide show appears as a menu item and I don't have to include a separate disk for the pictures. I've sucessfully imported it, added the menu marker and the disc works, but the photo quality is really crappy. When I play the slide show on its own, the pictures are fine. What am I missing?
Thanks in advance!
Mary

Welcome to the forum.
They work on several levels:
A subscriber comes with a problem/question, and then, hopefully, someone will have an answer
A subscriber comes with a problem/question in mind, and then finds other threads, very similar, and hopefully gets the answer
A subscriber comes to read, to pick up ideas, etc.
In your case, it appears that # 2 worked, just as it should.
As for your question, PrE can produce SlideShows for display from DVD-Video, as good as it gets. Where commercial DVD-Videos enter a different realm, is with Video footage, with motion. There, Hollywood uses special Transcoding software, that allows for many, many more passes to identify the areas of motion, to Transcode at just the right Bit-Rate, for best results. PrE does that with but two passes, unlike the US $ 500,000 programs, staffed by highly-trained experts, who do nothing but Transcoding, all day long. PrE is limited in that respect, but with SlideShows, it will be able to apply the highest Bit-Rate (the DVD-specs. are strict here, so, though higher Bit-Rate = higher quality, DVD-Video can ONLY go so far.) Also, Hollywood uses DVD-9's (DL) so that more Duration can be authored to disc, at the highest-allowed Bit-Rate, for each segment of the Video. With a SlideShow, the Bit-Rate will be as high as the DVD-specs. allow, and per the Duration of the SlideShow vs the capacity of the disc.
Now, there are some other considerations, such as the limited Color Gamut (and Gamma) of DVD-Video vs display on a calibrated computer monitor, or a calibrated Broadcast monitor. One needs to study that limited and different Color Gamut, and perhaps adjust the colors first, in Photoshop. PrE is not designed for Broadcast output, so lacks many of the Tools, that PrPro has. Also, very few PrE users have a calibrated Broadcast monitor hooked up for Color Grading. Last, even if one has produced the ultimate output, with full understanding of the Color Gamut, and used a perfectly calibrated Broadcast monitor, there is no telling what the calibration of the client's monitor (computer, or TV) will be. What is perfect on a calibrated Broadcast monitor might look great on the client's setup, or perhaps not. A Broadcast Engineer can only adjust to standards, and hope for the best, when the disc hits the public. Same for Audio. Who knows what "Aunt Marge" has to play back the DVD-Video?
For ultimate results, I would create a Timeline with a few Still Images, but with each adjusted in slightly different ways in Photoshop. Add a Title, like a Lower-Third, with the Color and Gamma settings over each version, maybe 5 variations, that are slightly different. PS allows one to adjust Colors and Gamma in many ways, so explore. Then, author that Timeline to DVD-Video, using high-quality media, and test on their DVD player/TV setup. See which version looks best, and note the specifics from that Title. Use that to process the actual Still Images for the DVD SlideShow.
Also remember, if one has set things up ideally, they will have calibrated their system and Photoshop. As Photoshop is a Color Managed Workspace, things will be, as good as it gets. DVD-Video, and TV's are NOT Color Managed Workspaces, and most consumer TV's are out of general calibration, having just the generic setting from the factory. Nothing can be done about that.
As mentioned above, if the playback is for a computer (not a DVD player and TV), then better Color and Gamma might be achieved by doing an AV file, and then burning that to a DVD-Data disc, for delivery. However, one still has the variables of the client's computer, its monitor and even the software player used. All play a big role in how that AV file will play for them.
Good luck, and I wish there was an "iron-clad" answer, as to how to achieve the ultimate results, but there are so very many variables involved.
Hunt

Aperture 3 : recurring quality problems with "auto levels"

Hello all,
I've been using Aperture 3 since the day of its release, and I have recurring problems with the quality of the "auto levels" output, compared to plain old Photoshop CS3. Auto-levels in Aperture 3 frequently output grainy results.
Here are some samples (look at the central vertical darker part of the image) :
— original image (well, part of it) shot using my Canon EOS 400D :
http://plainsong.online.fr/aperture/Original.jpg
— the same original image with "auto levels" applied in Photoshop CS3 :
http://plainsong.online.fr/aperture/Auto-levels-Photoshop.jpg
— the same original image with "auto levels" applied in Aperture 3.0.1 :
http://plainsong.online.fr/aperture/Auto-levels-Aperture.jpg
And here are both "auto-levelled" images zoomed in for convenience's sake :
http://plainsong.online.fr/aperture/Auto-levels-Photoshop-ZOOM.jpg
http://plainsong.online.fr/aperture/Auto-levels-Aperture-ZOOM.jpg
I would like to know if I'm the only one to get such crappy results in Aperture, on a not insignificant number of photos. These poor results are very visible in some photos. This is really irritating, because this lack of quality means I have to open those images in Photoshop just to apply auto-levels. And I thought Aperture would be smart enough to spare me those round-trips!
(By the way I've never had this kind of quality problems in Photoshop.)
Please share your experience. Thanks!

Here is another example :
http://plainsong.online.fr/aperture/Example2.jpg
Aperture auto-levels seem to choke on dark areas. Will we be obliged to bright and sunny shots ?

Calendar photo quality problem

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