Calibrating question

while im letting the battery drain till it turns off am i able to let it sleep? it wont drain by the time i go to sleep so as long as i dont plug it in am i able to turn it off or be in sleep mode?

Yes, it can be used or sleep during the draining period, as long as you don't connect to power, and as long as you leave it for at least 5 hours after it goes into forced sleep. What that means is that if it hits that point when already asleep, you won't know when to start the 5 hour clock. But, if that happens just let it go until it actually powers itself off (which usually happens 5-7 hours after forced sleep).

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Mid 2010 15" i5 Battery Calibration Questions

Hi, I have a mid 2010 15" MacBook Pro 2.4GHz i5.
Question 1: I didn't calibrate my battery when I first got my MacBook Pro (it didn't say in the manual that I had to). I've had it for about a month and am doing a calibration today, is that okay? I hope I haven't damaged my battery? The calibration is only to help the battery meter provide an accurate reading of how much life it has remaining, right?
Question 2: After reading Apple's calibration guide, I decided to set the MacBook Pro to never go to sleep (in Energy Saver System Preference) and leave it on overnight so it would run out of power and go to sleep, then I'd leave it in that state for at least 5 hours before charging it. When I woke up, the light on the front wasn't illuminated. It usually pulsates when in Sleep. Expectedly, it wouldn't wake when pressing buttons on the keyboard. So, what's happened? Is this Safe Sleep? I didn't see any "Your Mac is on reserve battery and will shut down" dialogues or anything similar, as I was asleep! I've left it in this state while I'm at work and will charge it this afternoon. Was my described method okay for calibration or should I have done something different?
Question 3: Does it matter how quickly you drain your battery when doing a calibration? i.e is it okay to drain it quickly (by running HD video, Photo Booth with effects etc) or slowly (by leaving it idle or running light apps)?
Thanks.
Message was edited by: Fresh J

Fresh J:
A1. You're fine calibrating the battery now. You might have gotten more accurate readings during the first month if you'd done it sooner, but no harm has been done.
A2. Your machine has NOT shut down; it has done exactly what it was supposed to do. When the power became critically low, it first wrote the contents of RAM to the hard drive, then went to sleep. When the battery was completely drained some time later, the MBP went into hibernation and the slepp light stopped pulsing and turned off. In that state the machine was using no power at all, but the contents of your RAM were still saved. Once the AC adapter was connected, a press of the power button would cause those contents to be reloaded, and the machine would pick up again exactly where you left off. It is not necessary to wait for the battery to be fully charged before using the machine on AC power, but do leave the AC adapter connected for at least two hours after the battery is fully charged. Nothing that you say you've done was wrong, and nothing that you say has happened was wrong.
A3. No, it does not matter.

Macbook Battery Calibration Questions

Greetings!
I just bought a MacBook today (the mid-range white model) but I am a complete tyro in the Apple world. I have a few questions with respect to the calibration process. The manual is lucid with respect to everything except for three issues:
1. The instructions make no mention of whether or not I can turn on my MacBook and use it during the first charge cycle (that is, the charging cycle before the two hour normal use stage).
2. The instructions do not indicate whether or not I have to wait until the battery is completely dead during the "die-down" stage (the supposed five hour sleep stage) before I plug in the charger and fully charge the battery again. Is it all right to plug in the power adapter after the computer has slept for five hours while the computer is still in sleep mode?
3. If for some reason I screwed up my first calibration (perhaps due to mishandling the process in (1) or (2) above), is it detrimental to immediately run another calibration process (i.e. treat the second "power up" cycle as step one of the calibration process)?
The reason why I raise these issues is because I am currently calibrating my MacBook as I speak. I plugged my adapter into the computer, turned it on, and ran programs (iTunes, CD ripping, Wifi) while the initial charge cycle was running. I have let the computer fully charge and have left it fully charged for a little over two hours. I am about to disconnect it and move to the "die-down" stage (that is, I will let it die down into sleep mode). I am concerned about whether or not I have faulted at any point in the calibration process. Any help regarding my questions would be much appreciated. Thank you for your time and consideration.
-- BibleJordan

And yes, it is ok the plug the adaptor while the computer is in sleep mode. The battery will charge as normal.
No, I think this is wrong. You need to let it sleep without the power adapter. This causes the battery to deplete most of the remaining reserve charge. If you look in the manual on pages 23-24, steps 4-6 are critical. Basically it says to drain your battery till it goes to sleep (step 4). Then let it sleep for 5 hours (step 5). Then plug in the ac adapter and leave it in till it is fully charged (step 6).
So do not plug in the AC adapter until it has either been off for 5 hours or in sleep mode for 5 hours.
Personally I don't see how you can shut it off instead of sleep mode for the 5 hours, as once it goes to sleep mode, from low battery, you cannot wake it to turn it off unless you plug in the AC and that defeats the whole purpose...
Regards,
RacerX
MacBook 2.0Ghz, 2GB RAM Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Another calibration question

hey all,
when calibrating my MacBook battery, once the battery is fully charged and i've let it set for at least two hours with the adapter plugged in, i unplug it and let the battery start to drain. Question: At this point in the process, does it disrupt the calibration process if i shut it down or let it go to sleep, so long as i don't plug it back into the power adapter? sometimes, while in the "discharging phase" of the process, i have no choice but to take my computer with me somewhere, which inevitably means putting it to sleep or shutting it down. i don't think it would interupt the calibration process but i want to be sure. thanx very much!
David

It is ok to put your MB in to sleep in this step of the process. See your MacBook User's Guide on pade 24, step #3.

USB-9213 Calibration question

I am considering purchasing a USB-9213 16 channel TC module but wanted to be sure that it could be calibrated in-house. The calibration procedure posted on NI website says it requires plugging the module into a NI cDAQ-9172 chassis to do this. My question is, can the calibration be performed over the USB connection instead or is there some additional features/connections in the backplane of the chassis that are not avaivable over the USB? Thanks.

Hi hgcdte,
It is required for proper calibration to use a cDAQ Chassis. The communciation is different enough that it would affect the calibration procedure. Post back if you have questions!
Regards,
Dustin D

3Gs and Nike Plus calibration question

I know that there are alot of threads that talk about the calibration issues with the Nike + and 3Gs. I too have been having a problem calibrating my running. I have been able to calibrate the walk just fine.
Here is what I have found. I can calibrate the run part of Nike + if I run at a pace of 5.6 miles per hour or faster. I am only comfortable running at about 5 miles per hour.
Here is my question. Can you only calibrate the run feature if you are going at a set pace be Nike?

I can also only calibrate walking. When I try running calibration it shows a pace of 20min/mile which is obscenely wrong. Were you able to fix this?

Monitor Calibration question

Hi, I sarted a new job and they have an Apple 23" cinema HD monitor and a 12" Sony Triniton PVM-14N5U NTSC monitor. The computer screen looks fine but everything in the NTSC monitor looks aweful green.
Is there any kind of service for monitor calibration that you guys are aware of? like a company which will send professionals to our office to calibrate all the computer displays and all the NTSC monitors?
or should i buy one of those mousy calibrating thing. Is it possible to calibrate the sony NTSC monitors?
Please suggest me what should i do. Thank you people in advance.

Well... VERY early on in the fcp manual is a whole section on how to calibrate ntsc monitors.
No charge.

Installed lightroom 5. Downloaded and installed update 5.7. Camera Calibration Question.

Working with both Canon (6D) and Fuji (X-T1) RAW images. Can not locate any camera calibration info for either camera's raw files. Nothing listed in the camera raw folder for any camera.
Everything I have read seems to tell me that there would / should be some information for one or both of my cameras.

It really isn't clear what you are asking. If you are looking for the profiles for your cameras you would go to the calibration tab in the develop module and click to choose from different profiles. Profiles will only be available for raw files, including DNG files.

PS CS3/CS4/CS5 and Snaplab UP-CR10L color calibration question

Sorry for the bad screen name, but after getting 20-30 (name in use) messages, I decided to go for RANDOM characters, and IT WORKED!!
Anyway, here is my inquiry.....
I have all three PS versions mentioned above, on an Intel Mac, and recently picked up a Snaplab event photo printer, UP-CR10L. It does 4x6 and 5x7 dye sub prints. It is geared toward kiosk type printing, but can be printed to from the computer. I may well use it printing from a computer, and by simpll"plugging in" the CF card directly, depending on circumstances. My primary issue at the present is when printing from PS however.
What is the best procedure for making sure the printer produces "what it should" when printing from PS? Can it be calibrated with the X-Rite Studio calibration hardware/software, or is everything "internal" so that it will print "what it thinks is right" irregardless of what user "wants" it to?
I ask because Sony ( the manufacturer) has been of very little help in this inquiry (I have gone through multiple support desks, and have gone full circle (A->B->C->A) several times. Although there is mention of a color profile for the later model of this printer (UP-CR20L), I can find nothing on THIS specific model with regards to the best ways of doing color management.
Oh, and as additional "side issue" with CS5, you also see this in the printer setup, but ONLY in CS5
"The bundle UP-CR10 PrintColorSetup PDE Could not load because it doesn't contain a version for the current architecture"
There are apparently NO new drivers for this printer beyond what I am using, and it is running the latest firmware (3.5).
Any and all thoughts, suggestions, or rants will be greatly appreciated.

A CF card is for Compact Flash used in pro digital cameras like the Nikon D3.
With this "specific" printer I am unsure of the available calibration options. There does not appear to be a way (in Mac anyway) to disable the printer handling color corrections (which PS specifically tells you to DISABLE) when you have "Photoshop Manages Colors" selected. I guess that has me "second guessing".
Maybe I had too many years in the QA department....I was always looking for "what something could be interpreted as " vs "what the author actually intended".
Oh.... and the 32 vs 64 bit suggestion did make that odd error go away...of course it caused ANOTHER Sony software addon for this printer to "fail to load".....even though it DID LOAD before ....

Specific Calibration Question

I have an IMAC 24 and the spyder3pro - My ambient light I am told is moderately low. When ever I calibrate with the Spyder and the check call it says the target is not met. In addition I need to use special software (Shades) to reduce the back light lower than Mac controls allow and Spyder keeps suggesting I calibrate to 5800 not 6500.
To illustrate the drift:
Desired 2.2 Gamma Current 1.93 Previous 1.94
White point Target .313/329 Current.318/.335 Previous .318/,335
Does the drift in Gamma make a big difference?
Does the drift in white point (using native makes no difference) make a difference?
Is this the reason why my prints are much darker than they should be?
Any suggestions?
Many thanks for specific suggestions!

I would rather see you use an image that might include an IT8 but not solely made up of an IT8 for that type of evaluation. The IT8 was originally designed as a scanning input profiling aid, and is harder to evaluate visually than an image like the PhotoDisc image. I like to use the PhotoDisc test image with a few of my own known images added, including RGB black and white full tone images and gray step wedges with particular attention given to both the top and bottom ten steps - from zero to ten and from 245 to 255.
An image like that is also a great aid in checking your overall calibration of the monitor, especially the ability of the screen to be neutral over the full tonal range and whether or not you can see the most subtle differences in pixel values on screen. There are only a couple of monitors than can show every step from 0-255 and this will show you exactly what yours is capable of. I know that both my Sony Artisan and Barco Reference Calibrator can to that. It's great to know if you might have detail in your file that you screen can't show you.
What you'll also see is that even on the best printers with custom profiles, everything below about 10,10, 10 RGB will go to black but you will still be able to see the difference in print between 253 and 255.
If you click on my name you'll find out how to contact me. I can send you the file I use with a calibrated print made with a Gretag generated custom profile, but I can't get it out until Monday.

PB 15" aluminum double-layer SD battery calibration question

The instructions for calibrating a battery on the double-layer SD Aluminum 15" powerbook (visible here: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1490) say to fully charge the battery, let it rest charged for at least two hours, then use the computer to discharge the battery, and let it rest fully discharged for at least five hours)
What is not clear is whether or not it's OK, during the "rest five hours discharged" phase, to remove the fully discharged battery from the computer, put in a different battery, and continue using the computer. In other words, does the discharged battery need to remain in the computer during the five hour rest period? I'm completely unclear as to what (if anything) is active in the computer during sleep, and whether or not the battery processor and the computer are talking to each other at all during this period.

I always assumed the "rest five hours discharged" phase is actually to completely drain any residual power in the battery, to trigger some sort of reset within it.
(But it's not an easy procedure to follow is it? Clearly something significant was changed for this very last set of PowerBook models, and now four years later some of us seem to be having lots of power-related, battery-charging, problems. I still think that calibration should have been done in conjunction with the OS managing it, and suggesting it be done on a suitable, scheduled basis.)

Battery calibrating question

Hi,
Today, I wanted to calibrate the battery in my new MBP. I just wanted to know if restarting the MBP would ''affect'' the calibration process. Because I was installing some apps and I didn't remember I was calibrating my battery so I accepted to restart.
So now I would like to know if I need to restart the whole process all over ? Let's admit it, the calibrating process is quite long.

As long as you didn't connect the power adaptor at the time I suspect the calibration will proceed normally, slitcher.
Cheers
Rod

RMBP calibration question

When calibrating in expert mode and all the adjustments are made , Do i leave the gamma native setting box checked? It is not 2.2.

It can be used and put to sleep multiple times during the discharge period, as long as you do not connect it to AC power. Remember to keep using (or letting it sleep) until it goes to sleep on it's own. Once you see the low battery warning, I would not put it to sleep manually - just keep using it for the few minutes until it's forced into sleep. Then wait 5+ hours before connecting to AC and charging until full. You can use it while it's charging, too, but don't unplug it. Also, it may take rather a long time to charge the last couple of percent - that's normal, so be patient.

Sony EX500 Calibration Question

I recently hooked up a Sony Blu-Ray player to my Sony Ex500 television. After watching my first blu-ray on it (Saving Private Ryan) I noticed a problem with some of the lighting. For example there was a scene with a couple of fires and the light from the fire made sort of an orange halo above the fire that gradually continued up the screen. It is definetly a problem with a setting on the television or blu-ray, but I cannot figure out what it is. If anyone has any suggestions to solve this problem please let me know! Thanks for your time and help!
Solved!
Go to Solution.

josh2903 wrote:
I recently hooked up a Sony Blu-Ray player to my Sony Ex500 television. After watching my first blu-ray on it (Saving Private Ryan) I noticed a problem with some of the lighting. For example there was a scene with a couple of fires and the light from the fire made sort of an orange halo above the fire that gradually continued up the screen. It is definetly a problem with a setting on the television or blu-ray, but I cannot figure out what it is. If anyone has any suggestions to solve this problem please let me know! Thanks for your time and help!
Check these threads over at AVS Forum:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1227927
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1249204

System Prefs - Color Calibration Question

Can anybody tell me how I can turn down the saturation of specific colors?
In my case I am using a HP LP3065 30" screen, which is great, but it comes with way too much saturation especially concerning red tones.
Is there a way i can use a reference image and adjust RGB sliders (by perception) and have that saved into an official color profile?
The system preferences under Display and Color do not offer adjustment of RGB values. I also tried out the shareware "SuperCal", but it also does not help me in this case.
Any advice appreciated!

So, then, I assume there are no controls on the monitor itself nor any software that came with the monitor? In that case you might search for some third-party utilities that can adjust a monitor's parameters - VersionTracker or MacUpdate.
Aside from what's in Display preferences and SuperCal I've not worked with any other similar software. Have you tried changing the Gamma setting with Display prefs or SuperCal? Does the monitor have any kind of adjustment for brightness and/or contrast? Maybe there are hidden controls accessible through the rear of the monitor - recessed or internal?

Calibrating question

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