Calibration Issues

I am setting up the calibration process newly in my system.
I have done the necessary settings.I am facing some issues while executing the calibration process.
1.While I try to create a single cycle plan I am getting the message"Counter couldn't be determined for reference object".Why is it so?
2.While scheduling my maintenance plan I get the warning message as "User status ZPM7 is active".
3.While saving the result recording,the screen for time confirmation does not appear and I get the message record inspection point identifier for the inspection point.I guess I have missed some settings.
I have set the indicator to release immediately for my order type.My order is also not getting tecoed in the background
automatically though the required function module is set in the background.

1) Counters are always used for performance based plan. Check your cycle it should be time based, eg.hrs, days, etc. and not performance based ex, m3/hr. or else assign counter to the equipment.
2) check user status ZPM7 assigned to the equipment , it is restricting the further scheduling.
3) I think on this check the master inspection characteristics for that equipment.
Release immediately doesn't mean that TE CO will be done automatically.It means that orders of this order type are automatically assigned "Released" status when they are created.
Regards,
Asheesh Aswal

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There are more than 1000 entries in google under "hp pavilion tablet driver"each asking for the driver.
More than 300 visitor read your post.
No one answered at all.
Do you think is your fault, or maybe HP and Wacom are too busy to deal with this issue.
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Maybe you thougth they will hurry up for you, and your error buying this equipment for your specific need, and the possibility of sell it out!
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Hello
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I do run OS 10.4.11 on a G4 Sawtooth with 2GB Ram, and a 1.8GHz dual CPU.

I'm not an expert on monitors, but I do know tubes and that, from your description, is what you have, a CRT. If the monitor is years old then the cathode may be losing its ability to emit electrons. This will cause problems trying to get the responses you need. It's akin to old people like me just wearing out. You can increase the emissions by raising the filament voltage like they used to in the old days when tv's cost several weeks of gross pay, but that just accelerates the inevitable. Replacing the cathode is technologically possible, but economically the cost would scare you to death.

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When I'm in Develop or Print the brightness and color of a harbor that I photographed look just fine. They also look fine when I call up the printer's print preview window. However, when I print out the photo, the blue water in the shadows takes on a greenish tint and other areas of shadow come out darker than what is shown on the screen. Could this be a monitor calibration problem?

No that is the correct profile. the SP indicates glossy photo paper. The MP
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Every month I re-calibrate my display using the COLOR by PANTONE Color Calibrator (v1.1.0).
I tried doing it today and kept getting this error, even though the tone for successful calibration always goes off:
Link to picture
I'll try to calibrate the screen once, but it will fail. When I try a second time, it will also fail, and give me the error seen above. If I try a third time, I finally get the three failure tones and the software simply closes itself.
Is this a hardware issue? A driver issue? Are there any solutions for this?
Recently updated my computer. Windows 7 64-bit.
Moderator note; picture(s) totalling >50K converted to link(s) Forum Rules
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Hi again, crmichae
What updates have you recently done to your machine? I did some research and found two highly relevant updates for your machine in general, and this issue more specifically. If you haven't already updated them, I found drivers for both your BIOS and the your graphics card that have been released recently and are a good place to start with helping this issue. The graphics driver can be found here and the BIOS can be found here.
Hope it helps. Let me know how it goes,
Adam
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Did anyone find a fix yet? I'm experiencing the same issues... In my case it possibly affects icons but also photos, and more remarkably so: colors appear too contrasted and saturated, especially reds. Crushed blacks, loss of detail in dark areas, and overall darker images. Both in Safari and when I browse and preview pics in Finder. For whatever reason, the color change is especially noticeable in thumbnails... This is unacceptable for me. I don't want any filters whatsoever. Anyone got a clue on how to reverse this behavior? Please Apple, fix this.

Color calibration issues - blue tint w/ sRGB

Need some help getting this issue resolved & wondering if there is a problem with my LCD.
I do a lot of web and video work and recently moved from a 17" Powerbook G4 to a 17" MacBook Pro. Both used with a 20" Apple Cinema display. The color temperature (tint) between the Powerbook and the new MacBook Pro are drastically different - especially when using sRGB calibration which is recommended by Adobe for this type of work. The cinema display seems correct and closely matches my Powerbook when using sRGB, but the Macbook Pro is very blue. The Macbook Pro displays more warm grays vs. the cinema display when using the default calibration settings.
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http://idisk.mac.com/edgedesign-Public/Calibration/photo_sRBG.jpg
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http://idisk.mac.com/edgedesign-Public/Calibration/photo_default.jpg
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Brief intro before I pontificate: I have a degree in imaging and used to be one of the guys you talked to at Eastman Kodak about monitor color calibration (before Kodak drove me crazy).
A few points:
First, sRGB is a needlessly small gamut color space invented by Microsoft. In the professional imaging field it is looked at with great disdain because it is imposing a needless crushing of your monitor's color profile. I've talked to one of the color experts at Adobe and he completely agrees. I don't know who at Adobe is recommending sRGB, but they are W R O N G. I personally call sRGB 'StupidRGB' in order to remind myself exactly what it is worth.
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Third, LCD screens generally SUCK for color matching. Here are a few reasons why:
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(B) In case you had not heard, none of the MacBook or MacBook Pro laptops are capable of showing all colors to which the human eye is sensitive. They don't do 'millions of colors' despite advertising you have read. They do about 260,000 colors and dither the rest. Dithering does NOT create colors that are not there. It just fakes them. The result again is that it is impossible to use these LCDs for accurate color matching. I have no knowledge about whether this color problem is the case with iMacs, but refer to the paragraph above regarding their viewing angle problem.
(C) The color gamut on even the very best LCD display is at the mercy of the fluorescent light bulbs inside the displays. The massive problem with fluorescent lights is that they do not have a continuous color spectrum. What you get are specific wavelength peaks with complete dropouts of other colors. Ye old CRTs with electron guns and glowing phosphors were/are not perfect either, but they were/are MUCH better at representing the full spectrum of light. Their gamut is much larger and more accurate than any LCD display. CRTs remain THE professional display for color calibration and color matching, even today.
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When you get to the point of naming your color calibration profile you MUST include in the name the gamma number you used and the white point number you used. You will want to know, believe me. Here is why: You are going to want to make further color calibration profiles for different situations either now or in the future. Here's one example:
Lighting environment: Are you working on your MacBook Pro in the dark? Are the walls in the room a neutral color? Or are the walls colored? What kind of light is being used in the room? Fluorescent? Incandescent? Daylight? Details in the lighting environment in which you are working will affect how you perceive color on your display! You may want a morning color profile, an afternoon sun profile, and a night profile. If you have windows near you, these different times of day will affect the light in your work area and how you perceive color on your display. Again, go find a good book if you really want to understand this stuff.
A good basic calibration for plain old every day work, useless for color matching but nice to look at: I go through the calibration process for my lighting environment then use a gamma of 1.8 and I check off 'Use native white point'. Why? LCDs look their best at their native white point. You get good contrast with optimum color. Try it, you'll like it.
:-Derek

Display Calibration Issues

hi,
just upgraded to 10.6.8 and lots of issues.
the biggest is that my 30" cinema display now looks 15-20% lighter.
the screen image (especially in abobe indesign) doesn't look like it did in 10.5.8
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when calibrating in SL, isn't not default and you need to know to manually change that.
has anyone else experienced these kind of SL display problems?
if so, how did you correct them?
in the back of my mind I'm thinking it's something with the video card, but
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jim

my suspicion is snow leopard.
Nope, color works just fine. Something has changed in your setup. If you're using the exact same monitor and printer profiles you had under 10.5.8, color should come out the same under Snow Leopard.
While the default for Snow Leopard is now a 2.2 gamma, it doesn't mean you can't change it. It only means the long supplied Apple profiles are now built with a 2.2 gamma instead of 1.8. You can still build your monitor profiles to any white point and gamma you want.
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That's the simple explanation. But in order for that to work, you need accurate profiles. You'll go through an awful lot of paper and ink trying one unrelated profile after another, and still get nowhere. By "unrelated", I mean using a profile that has nothing to do with the device. Such as choosing "Adobe RGB" as your monitor profile. That profile means nothing in relation to your monitor. It does not describe the white point, gamma or brightness you monitor is necessarily set to, nor the gamut or range of color it can actually display. Same goes for the rest of any profile the system allows you to choose as your monitor profile. They are all generic profiles that in no way describe the device you are looking at. I go into a lot more detail on monitors here.
So when you do use one of those generic monitor profiles, ColorSync can only assume, yes, this must be exactly how the monitor looks that you're viewing. Which of course it doesn't. So naturally, printed color is rarely even close.
The least expensive color management tool you can buy, and at the same time drastically improves your ability to match output to your screen is something like this. Of the two models, definitely get the i1Display Pro. Much faster, accurate unit. Also much better software with more control. Don't bother looking at older colorimeters such the i1Display2, Spyder, or any other previous models. They can't handle the output of today's wide gamut LCD or LED monitors. Gray rarely comes out gray. Usually very greenish or pink. These new models have bee completely redesigned to handle today's monitors. They also handle older monitors just fine.

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eric,
I noticed the same thing. using Native White Point the Gamma behaves correctly. I then saw a not at X-Rite's site that said to change to Laptop mode. I tried that also and yeilded better results.
What is perplexing is why it is happening. Something like that bugs the heck out of me, hehe. Going to fiddle with it some more and see what I come up with. I am also considering using an open source calibration software (some french made thing can't remember name right now) and see what happens.
Then lastly thinking of hooking the monitor back up to my laptop since that is a ATI vid card versus the Nvidia I am hooked to now.
Wonder if that has any impact. Oh eric, question for ya did you have an issue when adjusting the RGB Control settings in the iMatch software not adjust towards the center (green area). the markers are basically at the far edges and no matter how I adjust those settings they basically don't move.
Message Edited by sonicdivx on 09-23-2008 05:39 AM

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The spoken feedback works for 2-3 runs and then quits. Resetting takes care of that so I try to remember to reset every other day or so... a pain needless to say.
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