Calls in Dubai

I am planning to make a purchase for credits for me to call Dubai landlines and mobile numbers but I am not sure if it is going to work properly, I don't want to spend for credits that I won't be able to use. I want to know since I have read that VOIP is being banned in UAE,, has skype have the capabilities to call Dubai landline and mobile numbers?

scottxx,
That was very nice of you to provide your friend with a new phone! I am sorry to say that the device will not be able to activate while in Dubai. For a device to activate it must connect to the VZW network to become active. I apologize for any inconvenience.
LindseyT_VZW

Similar Messages

I cant make a call from Dubai to india

Today i made a transaction for 10 $ but unable to make a call from uae to India. Kindly refund the amount if it has been blockd.

Hi, Abiapar, and welcome to the Community,
Please remember this Community is not a branch of Skype Customer Service, as is noted in our Community Guidelines. We here in the Community are not authorized to access Skype accountholder files or records. To request a refund, please contact Skype customer service directly.
Regards,
Elaine
Was your question answered? Please click on the Accept as a Solution link so everyone can quickly find what works! Like a post or want to say, "Thank You" - ?? Click on the Kudos button!
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Skype call to mobile is connected to mobile's voic...

When I call my wife's AT&T Nokia 6350 from my Windows 7 PC, the call is connected to her voice mailbox instead of her phone's voice mail. A call to my exact same model cell phone is connected to my phone's voice mail correctly. The PC is running Skype 5.3.0.116.
This anomaly only occurs when I dial from my PC, or FREETALK using Skype. If I call her phone from our landline using FREETALK with the # prefix, to force a landline call, or if I call from our landline with FREETALK disconnected, or from my cell phone, then the call is correctly connected to her phone's voice mail.
These symptoms seem to point to some anomoly in the Skype dialing. If the Skype experts believe that this may be an AT&T problem then please provide the exact dialing sequence, as that will probably be the first information that AT&T will ask for.
Thanks.

Your call logs show connection issues.
Do you happen to be in United Arab Emirates?
If yes, then please check this post: http://community.skype.com/t5/General-Discussion/skype-calls-from-Dubai/m-p/238512/highlight/true#M3...
If you can't use your service then customer service can help with the refund: https://support.skype.com/en/faq/FA297/How-do-I-request-a-refund
Andre
If answer was helpful please mark it with Kudos and if issue is resolved mark it with solution. This will help other users find this answer more easily. Thanks in advance!

Call to Mobile/Phone through Skype unlimited subs...

Hi,
Today I have purchased unlimited subscription but am not happy with calls.
When I call through skype to a mobile, it is not connecting properly.
But when i call through my mobile to destination country mobile, I can connect without any issue.
Please suggest...

Your call logs show connection issues.
Do you happen to be in United Arab Emirates?
If yes, then please check this post: http://community.skype.com/t5/General-Discussion/skype-calls-from-Dubai/m-p/238512/highlight/true#M3...
If you can't use your service then customer service can help with the refund: https://support.skype.com/en/faq/FA297/How-do-I-request-a-refund
Andre
If answer was helpful please mark it with Kudos and if issue is resolved mark it with solution. This will help other users find this answer more easily. Thanks in advance!

Flicker removal suggestions

I do a lot of work with time lapse photography/video and in a lot of cases, especially daytime shots, there is a flicker in the images due to the DSLR (Canon 5D and 20D) making slight shifts in the aperture for each frame despite having it set to a specific setting.
Here is an example of my problem: http://www.coyopa.com/flicker/flicker_test.mov
I've been trying to resolve this issue for many months. I've tried several different FCP/Motion cocktails and demoed any third party plugin I can find yet nothing seems to resolve the issue.
Here is my workflow. Shoot RAW files using the two cameras. Process the images in Lightroom and export full res jpegs or TIFFs. I've been trying to fix the flicker problem in Lightroom as well but that isn't working either. I then import them into FCP and create a 4000x2667 sequence for the full res jpegs. I then nest that sequence in a 1080p Pro Res HQ sequence for editing and motion effects.
There is one plugin I've found that seems to do exactly what I need but it is for After Effects and PC only: http://www.granitebaysoftware.com/Product_gbdeflicker.aspx
Can anyone point me in a direction of a similar plug in or have suggestions on how to create that effect using the Final Cut Studio tool set? I'm banging my head against the wall at this point.

I too am quite interest in time-lapse photography. The ability to shoot RAW and additionally have a final image in excess of 4K is quite appealing. So I'll share with you what I've learned over the past few months regarding flicker reduction. I'm going to approach this from two distinct spectrums of time: past and future. What I mean by that is: I don't know precisely how to eliminate flicker in any time lapses that you've already generated. On the up side: I do have some techniques for (mostly) eliminating flicker from sequences you shoot from here on out.
"Fixing the past"...
I've also heard about GeDeflicker. Sounds promising, when gauged by the results I've heard from others, on various forums, around the web. For a second or so I even considered, installing Windows (Boot Camp or virtually), getting a Win. version of AE, getting GeDeflicker and...then I came to my senses! That's a bunch of loot to pay to fix something that I really wanted to nail in the field. So I abandoned that concept about 4 seconds after realizing it.
Down the same path though is a free piece of software called "Virtual Dub". (LINK). It's an open source image processing app. that can modify image sequences. Problem is that it also is Windows only. On the upside there's a free filter called "Deflicker" for Virtual Dub. And in the same arenas where I've heard compliments about GBDeflicker, I've heard equal if not better praise for this latter combination of free tools. VirtualDub + Deflicker. (LINK) Windows XP Pro is pretty cheap on eBay now. So this is one path to consider.
Finally, regarding fixing your current sequences in FCP: I don't know. It's going to be tough and, frankly, probably never perfect. In theory you could keyframe the settings in the 3-way Color Corrector. But I wouldn't hope for miracles. Whatever success you can achieve depends on what's changing in the scene. Did you manually white-balance these shots? If so, there might be some hope. If not, that's one more thing - other than a pure "luma" shift that you're fighting. Trying to equalize chroma and luma across shots is going to be quite difficult in my opinion. Hopefully someone else can contribute more.
Don't know if you have AE for Mac. But there's an "effect" called Color Stabilizer. It actually does a nice job of fixing flicker. With one serious caveat! You can tell it whether you want to stabilize "levels", "brightness", or "curves". In our case we'd want brighness. The trick is that it's going to want you to pinpoint a black point and/or white point in the scene. That's fine if you planned for it and actually have these points to select. ie: something that is to be construed as CONSTANTLY black or white in the scene. If for instance you're shooting nothing but a moving sky then there is no constant white or black area. Now you're relegated to a frame-by-frame keyframing of one of these points throughout time. Ouch!
Now for the good news: I've discovered some truly helpful shooting techniques for reducing this flicker in the field. So hopefully these tips will help you in future as well.
1.) As you likely already know: manual shutter & aperture.
2.) Manual white balance. (Otherwise you'll likely have different color temps. across shots)
3.) Other people have suggested trying to use as slow a shutter as possible. So this might require stacking up some neutral density filters to get a slower shutter in bright light. But the theory is that this reduces any shutter speed inconsistencies. For example, if you're exposing (theoretically) for .1 seconds but theres a .01 fluctuation across shots that's a 10% change in shutter speed. If you, however, are exposing for 8 seconds with the same .01 second fluctuation, then that's only .125% change. Much less percentage change! Either way. I don't worry about this so much. I've had success with reducing flicker with shots that were all well exposed for fractions of a second. And that's because of the final tip, I think...
4.) Lock the aperture! You made mention of setting a precise aperture. So you probably already realize what I'm about to say, but I'm going to throw it out there regardless, for others that might stumble upon this. On old-school lenses when you dialed in the aperture, there were physical moving parts that slid into place and REMAINED there. With modern DSLRs this is not the case. The bodies control the aperture and they literally force the aperture into position ever single time you fire a shot. So there's room for error. The aperture does NOT land in the absolute precise spot every time. This variance, be it ever so subtle, is still enough to cause a visible flicker when the images are played back consecutively.
However, with Canon cameras there is a workaround. Set your aperture, shutter speed and white balance. Before you start shooting, push the little "Depth of Field Preview button" beside the lens. This flys the aperture into it's soon-to-be shooting position. While holding this button, push the button to release the lens as though you were going to remove it. Twist the lens the slightest amount possible to release the contacts between the lens and body. The result: the aperture remains locked in space and time. It won't be constantly moving into position, relaxing, into position, relaxing. There are (at least) two issues I know of: this lens-twist requires the smallest movement!! If it's too large you're going to get camera errors and zero shots fired. Secondly, the lens-twist is going to break the communication of aperture reporting into the EXIF info. ie: each shot is going to appear to have it's aperture be 00. You can fix this with other tools. (LINK) (Beware, it's not necessarily elegant: You'll be diving into OS X's Terminal.) But for me, it's somewhat irrelevant and certainly not a deal-breaker!
So that's the key piece to this puzzle in my mind: truly maintaining as many constants as possible. And this lens-twist trick seems to be the capstone for me. Here are some links:
My 1st ever time lapse. Flicker is prominent. And it's because I had Auto White Balance set. And I did knot yet know of about the lens trick.
2nd time lapse. Even with blue skies and clouds, aperture drifts can bring on obvious variations. I really just don't see it here. Here I've employed manual everything + lens twist.
3rd time lapse. Same parameters as second example. No flicker.
Finally, I'd hang out over here: Timescapes.org. There's a great forum. In fact, that's where I learned most of the info I'm passing on here. Great group of people. Highly skilled, knowledgable & open to sharing. Huge resource for the time lapse community.
Hope this helps some! Again, I know I didn't really talk much about fixing these sequences in FCP (or other components of the suite.) But if you've got AE for your Mac then I'd start there with the Color Stabilizer. Behind the scenes, it's operations are very similar to what GeDeflicker does.
Best regards,
Kevin

How can I import movie form a JVC camera with a .TOD extention

Hello everyone,
I took some movie from my holiday with a JVC camera. And as good mac user, I wish to use iMovie to try to make some movies.
The problem is that iMovie does not accept movie with TOD extention.
Then I have no idea how could I transform my movies with a mp4 extention or with an extention compatible with iMovie 9.
Do you have any idea which will help me?
Thank

Hi,
I work for JVC and would like to try and help.
Older JVC HD camcorders recorded HD video in MPEG2 with a .tod file extension.
There were several recording speeds on your camcorder. If you recorded in the 1440CBR mode, then you may be able to capture the video to your camcorder via i.Link (Firewire). Don't try it with USB. It won't work. Only via Firewire. Look in your instruction book for a topic called "Playlist Dubbing".
If you did not record in the 1440CBR mode, and you wish to connect via USB, there is one other possible option: Apple offered compatibility with this, but only for one generation of iMovie. That was iMovie 06 HD. If you install iMovie 06 HD, you will be able to import your .tod files and edit them.
You can purchase iMovie 06 HD as a part of the iLife 06 software suite which can still be found on E-Bay. You will also need to install the Quick Time Plug-In which was on the CD-ROM that came with your camcorder. Depending on your OS, there is also a Quick Time update from JVC that you may need to install.
Alternately, you need to look at file conversion software.
More recent JVC HD Everio camcorders record in the AVCHD format which works flawlessly with iMovie '08 or iMovie '09 as long as your Mac has an Intel processor.
I hope this helps.
Chris

*ALL IPOD 5G OWNERS* GUIDE FOR VIDEOS

Hello all you Ipod 5g (video) owners. like you, I was extremely exited by the coming out of this Ipod and bought it the first week or even day that it came out in stores. most likely, you had no idea how to get your videos and was extremely frustrated when you got that error from itunes saying "this file cannot be put on to your Ipod because it cannot be played on it" well I have been doing a week of research on forums google and apple.com and have decided to make this guide so all you new 5g Ipod owners will not have to go through the frustration like I did.
*This Method worked great for me and I hope it works great for you as well
First- you need quicktime pro there is no other solution from this that I have found so far, it will be well worth it after you get your first video or even your hundredth on the ipod. it is only 30 dollars too and as well as being able to convert and export your videos to Ipod format it plays your videos great and in full screen with great quality.
-Now you might have already done this and have spent about a day exporting the video to Ipod format finding that after about 15 hours of converting you get a video... with out audio!! that was one of the things that really got me mad. I'm guessing the file you tried to convert was mpg or mpeg 2? well I have a solution for that too! there is a program called virtual-dub http://prdownloads.sourceforge.net/virtualdub/VirtualDub-1.6.11.zip?use_mirror=c ogent it is freeware and works great. what it does is convert your files to avi with the audio and video, when at avi format, you will be able to export them in quicktime pro to an Ipod format with the audio and video in it. WARNING you will need a MASSIVE HARD DRIVE for this! make sure you have from 2-20gb of space depending on the hard drive, or better yet, have the avi saved to your Ipod hard drive! well.. after you have converted your video to avi format open it in quicktime pro, click on file>Export>save as an mpeg4 file (MUCH FASTER!!)>go to options> click on audio>make the audio settings as pass through as it will sound much better>go to video and change the image size 320 by 240>click ok. it should then start to export the file and take about 30 minutes due to exporting as a mpeg4 file is just much faster than exporting it specifically as the Ipod setting. remember to delete the avi file after you successfully get it exported as an mpeg4 file if you don't want your hard drive to become extremely full. then simply add your file to itunes and drag it to the Ipod video and enjoy! tip if you have alot of files I recommend making some folders like *converted to avi* and *ready to unload to Ipod* it made things alot easier for me.
please post comments criticizing and subjecting things to add to my guide

I finally got it to work! I've tried EVERYTHING. Finally I was able to rip one of my DVDs onto my computer and get it to work on my iPod, following the instructions here:
http://www.dapreview.net/content.php?article.234
EXCEPT, once I got the AVI file, I just used Videora to convert it, using these instructions for the settings: http://www.pspvideo9.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2232&sid=8265c7c6225de6ffe4c4ac6 5afe25ea2
The sound and everything worked!
So I would suggest Videora for converting AVI files, just follow those instructions. For the DVD ripping I used DVD Decrypter, which I think uses VirtualDub as a part of the software. (DVD Decrypter: http://www.afterdawn.com/software/videosoftware/dvd_rippers/dvddecrypter.cfm )
Be careful when choosing the dimensions for your video though! I ripped a widescreen DVD and it looks very weird converted into 320x240 because the original was 560x240. I'm gonna try to make it more proportional.

THE GUIDE FOR PUTING VIDEOS ON YOUR IPOD!

Hello all you Ipod 5g (video) owners. like you, I was extremely exited by the coming out of this Ipod and bought it the first week or even day that it came out in stores. most likely, you had no idea how to get your videos and was extremely frustrated when you got that error from itunes saying "this file cannot be put on to your Ipod because it cannot be played on it" well I have been doing a week of research on forums google and apple.com and have decided to make this guide so all you new 5g Ipod owners will not have to go through the frustration like I did.
This Method worked great for me and I hope it works great for you as well
First- you need quicktime pro there is no other solution from this that I have found so far, it will be well worth it after you get your first video or even your hundredth on the ipod. it is only 30 dollars too and as well as being able to convert and export your videos to Ipod format it plays your videos great and in full screen with great quality.
-Now you might have already done this and have spent about a day exporting the video to Ipod format finding that after about 15 hours of converting you get a video... with out audio!! that was one of the things that really got me mad. I'm guessing the file you tried to convert was mpg or mpeg 2? well I have a solution for that too! there is a program called virtual-dub http://prdownloads.sourceforge.net/virtualdub/VirtualDub-1.6.11.zip?use_mirror=c ogent it is freeware and works great. what it does is convert your files to avi with the audio and video, when at avi format, you will be able to export them in quicktime pro to an Ipod format with the audio and video in it. WARNING you will need a MASSIVE HARD DRIVE for this! make sure you have from 2-20gb of space depending on the hard drive, or better yet, have the avi saved to your Ipod hard drive! well.. after you have converted your video to avi format open it in quicktime pro, click on file>Export>save as an mpeg4 file (MUCH FASTER!!)>go to options> click on audio>make the audio settings as pass through as it will sound much better>go to video and change the image size 320 by 240>click ok. it should then start to export the file and take about 30 minutes due to exporting as a mpeg4 file is just much faster than exporting it specifically as the Ipod setting. remember to delete the avi file after you successfully get it exported as an mpeg4 file if you don't want your hard drive to become extremely full. then simply add your file to itunes and drag it to the Ipod video and enjoy! tip if you have alot of files I recommend making some folders like *converted to avi* and *ready to unload to Ipod* it made things alot easier for me.
please post comments criticizing and subjecting things to add to my guide

You see Daniel. I Told you there would be more interest over in the iPod section.
Unfortunatly, the app only works on Mac OS X .
*nathan

Enabling AU Nodes for Plug-Ins

Hi, I am having problems getting my AU Plug-in components working in Logic Pro 9. I have done pretty much everything imaginable up to this point but the components won't show up in the Audio Units list for Inserts. The plug-in's I have are ReFX Nexus 2 and Tone2 Gladiator (all latest versions) and I am running Logic on OS X Snow Leopard 10.6.3. The problem has boiled down to the inability to check/select the 'Nodes' inside the Audio Units Manager; the check boxes under 'Logic' can be selected and the plug-ins appear to have passed the test. Only AU's with selectable nodes show up in the Inserts panel. I tested this by downloading a plug-in called TAL-DUB II that was shown as an example in a video for installing plug-ins and after placing it's component in the components folder it showed up right away. Every AU in the Audio Units Manager that has an active node shows up and is functional except the ones whose nodes cannot be clicked/selected including three that came with Logic: 'AUAdioFilePlayer', AUNetReceive', and DLSMusicDevice'. In the AU manager, under 'Type' all the ones listed as 'effects' have selectable nodes but 'generators' and 'instruments' do not. I'm sure it's something very simple but if someone can explain what that something is it would be much appreciated. Thanks.

jerjae11 wrote:
Hi, I am having problems getting my AU Plug-in components working in Logic Pro 9. I have done pretty much everything imaginable up to this point but the components won't show up in the Audio Units list for Inserts. The plug-in's I have are ReFX Nexus 2 and Tone2 Gladiator (all latest versions) and I am running Logic on OS X Snow Leopard 10.6.3. The problem has boiled down to the inability to check/select the 'Nodes' inside the Audio Units Manager; the check boxes under 'Logic' can be selected and the plug-ins appear to have passed the test. Only AU's with selectable nodes show up in the Inserts panel. I tested this by downloading a plug-in called TAL-DUB II that was shown as an example in a video for installing plug-ins and after placing it's component in the components folder it showed up right away. Every AU in the Audio Units Manager that has an active node shows up and is functional except the ones whose nodes cannot be clicked/selected including three that came with Logic: 'AUAdioFilePlayer', AUNetReceive', and DLSMusicDevice'. In the AU manager, under 'Type' all the ones listed as 'effects' have selectable nodes but 'generators' and 'instruments' do not. I'm sure it's something very simple but if someone can explain what that something is it would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Nodes have nothing to do with it - or are you using any plugins from a second Mac?
Most 3rd party Instrument plugins do not have noding capabilities, but that has no bearing on whether they can be used on a single machine.
If you have a second Mac, you can install plugins on that and use those in a project running on the first Mac, this is known as *Distributed Audio Processing.*
http://documentation.apple.com/en/logicpro/usermanual/index.html#chapter=2%26sec tion=6%26tasks=true

I ordered a new phone and shipped it to a friend in Dubai, UAE. without knowing i have to activate it by making 5minutes calls, please i need a way to activate it without sending it back to the US..any help? this has been very frustrating for me this past

I ordered a new phone and shipped it to a friend in Dubai, UAE. without knowing i have to activate it by making 5minutes calls, please i need a way to activate it without sending it back to the US..any help? this has been very frustrating for me this past few days

scottxx,
That was very nice of you to provide your friend with a new phone! I am sorry to say that the device will not be able to activate while in Dubai. For a device to activate it must connect to the VZW network to become active. I apologize for any inconvenience.
LindseyT_VZW

How do I activate continuity calls on my macbook pro? I have an iPhone 6 and Macbook Pro Retina Mid 2014 and I live in Dubai

I have an iPhone 6 and Macbook Pro Retina Mid 2014 and I live in Dubai, I bought my macbook from Canada and iPhone from UAE so it doesn't have FaceTime but i should be able to get calls on my mac right?

If you set your imessage off on your phone it will only turn it off on your phone i think I don't think it effects your mac. I'm not 100% sure on this though.
If you want to remove imessages from your mac - Open iMessage, go to Messages top left, and then select Preferences. Select "Accounts" and then simply "Sign out" That should do it.

Iphone 5 from Dubai not working in INDIA. Call failed

I bought 3 Iphone5 from Dubai out of it 2 are working on Vodafone India(Call & 3G data) but the Third iphone 5(3G Data only) on vodafone.
i have managed to cut sim into NANO sim they are working on other two Iphone5 but not on last one.
i can use DATA service on third iphone but cant call or sms it shows call failed.
Any Solution ???

hetabk wrote:
This one(md655) has verizon usa card from which i can call but when i put Vodafone india only data.
There is the problem. The iPhones originated in the US and there are NO unlocked iPhones for sale in the US.
In the future, it's best to only purchase iPhones directly from Apple or an authorized reseller.
You may simply be out of luck. You can try contacting Verizon and see if they will unlock the device for you, there is no guarantee.
If the other two are locked to AT&T, you are completely out of luck.

I bought an iphone 5 from Dubai and activated it in Kabul- Afghanistan, when i want to make a video call but i couldn't find the FiceTime? Please help me i wana see my fiancee.

How can i send my picture from PC to iphone 5?

FaceTime is not available on devices sold in Dubai, their country doesn't allow it. Even though you may now be in a different country you won't be able to install it, including via iOS updates - it's blocked by the serial number.
To sync photos, connect and select your phone on the left-hand sidebar of your computer's iTunes (if the sidebar isn't showing then control-S should get it to show), and on the right-hand side there should be a series of tabs, one of which should be Photos - if you select that tab you can then select which photo folders to sync to the phone. There is a bit more info on this page. You will need to sync all the photos that you want on the phone together in one go as only the most recent photo sync remains on the iPad - synced photos can't be deleted directly on the phone, instead they are deleted by not including them in the next photo sync.

I bought an I pad 2 from us but I can not activate the Facetime in UAE(Dubai)as I can not see the country in the I pad's drop list, anyone has an idea as how to resolve this issue

I bought an I pad 2 from us but I can not activate the Facetime in UAE(Dubai)as I can not see the country in the I pad's drop list, anyone has an idea as to how to resolve this issue

I'm not that familiar with how FaceTime works. I know how to set It up but I don't use it. I just know that you can't activate in the UAE. I believe that you can activate in any country that permits it's use. Whether you will need a new ID or not, I can't confirm.
You can Google this and get all sorts of articles on workarounds. Apparently if you set up a VPN you can use it in the UAE. Here is one article that I found.
http://talkfree7.blogspot.com/2010/09/how-to-facetime-voip-call-from-uae.html
I Googled "workaround for FaceTime in UAE" to find this.

Iphone 6 call quality issue....

Hi, yesterday i saw software update in my iphone 6 and i thought it will solve the call quality issue , but unfortunately it was not for that.
Dear iphone support , the call quality in iphone 6 is really bad, I was using iphone 4S and that had great voice quality. iphone 6 voice during call is not clear , it has noise .
When I told my friends about the problem , they told me that I might have bought the refurbish phone. But I bought it from Dubai in 750 USD and I do not think it would be the case.

Since my iPhone 6 has great Call Quality,
My tip would be to take it to an Apple shop. All apple Products have world wide warranty.
If it is really they should be able to fix it.
Hope this helps,

Calls in Dubai

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