Camera settings for making book

hi all i've just started to get into iphoto and want to make a book for mother's day. i've tried adding some pictures but its also showing the yellow sign with the ! in the middle. i take it this means the pictures are not of good quality to print out. the ones with this on them are taken on 1 megapixel.
what should i change it to? on my new camera its either 1, 3 or 5. i know the easy answer is 5 but i'm just making sure.
also anyone know how long the book takes to be delivered to the uk.

That yellow sign is an indication that you don't have sufficient pixel density to produce a quality print. You want to take pictures with the maximum amount of pixels that your camera can utilize. Also, set your compression to "Fine." The ONLY downside to these recommendations is file size - the camera's storage capacity will be reduced.

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Camera settings for making youtube videos

I have a Canon 60D and CS4 master collection with Premiere Pro and Encore. What settings should I shoot video at in order to get the best youtube output? My choices are 1920x1080-30; 1920x1080-24; 1280x720-60; 640x480-60; crop-640-60

Thanks Bill, that's a most honest answer. I also found this tv segment to help in the camera settings. http://tv.adobe.com/watch/shooting-and-editing-hdslr-video-using-adobe-tools/-setting-up-t he-camera-correctly-for-dslr-video/ This is most exciting challenge and a healthy switch from my traditional photo skills.
Bob.

Best Settings for making a Secure, Reliable Disk Image?

Hi guys!
Can anybody direct me to the best settings that can be used to make a secure Disk image using the MacOS X disc utility?
I wish to make my computer family friendly, yet keep my proffessional and private files secure/private and innaccesible to children and unautorized individuals. I have heard that files saved inside encrypted images (password protected) are also not indexed in the finder wich is perfect for the privacy I seek (this is true right?).
I know how to access the tools, but the right settings for making a trustworthy image remain elusive. Already tried with some of the formats and information placed inside...started becoming glitchy and unreliable, even after removing the files and making them unencrypted again.I'm abaout to try with the HFS+ format.
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Can a external drive be formated to HMS+ and accept a drag and dropped copy of a 400GB image? FAT32 will just not accept it. Would there be risk of the image being damaged in the transfer? NOTE that copying the data into an external drive would be to have a secure backup of the data. If I can't trust the backup to be carbon copy intact...it isn't a backup.
Securing files is really proving to be bothersome, despite having "refined" tools at my disposal.
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Do you place your backups on external disks? Are your external disks formatted HFS+?
Can HFS+ Disk image be Drag dropped into a HFS+ formatted external disk in order to copy them? or is the process blocked like what happens to large Disk images in FAT 32?
I'm trying to lock on to the right format to apply to everything. My steps will be:
Make the image: So far a sparse image in HFS+ format, 400 GB, No partition map.
Drag sensitive work to Disk image. Once transfer in complete delete originals.
Format an external disk into the journaled HFS+ format. Drag drop Secure disk image to back it up.
Do you see any problems with this process? Anything i'm missing?

What are best Mpeg encoder settings for making DVDs?

In switching from PP1.5 to CS3 the procedure is different for making DVDs and we have to encode mpeg files that later get picked up by Encore DVD build proces. What are the best mpeg encode settings for making the DVDs?
Thanks,
Chuck Taylor

Question:
If you are doing a video that is small enough that you are not worried about size, what is the absolute best quality encoder settings? Would a Continous Bitrate result in a higher quality file generally? VBR is for trying to make a smaller file I assume.
I'm frustrated with even white letters on black titles that have some flicker. I just don't seem to get the smooth quality I desire.
Should I look at a different encoder?
If you output PP3 to an AVI and then import it into encore, isn't there a reduction of Q. due to the save to the AVI file?
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What are the best imovie, mpeg4 settings for making dvds?

What are the best imovie, mpeg4 settings for making dvds?

• iMovie'08 to 11
- Share to Media Browser - AND as Large (or Medium) - HD or other resolutions degrades the final result
iMovie'08 to 11 are not the tools of choise if quality is important as they all degrade the picture by discarding every second line when going from, Event's to Project's and this can not be mended.
iMovie HD6 and FinalCut delivers 100% of what any DVD-Authoring program needs.
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• iDVD does only care about TIME / Duration as
iDVD 08, 09 & 11 has three levels of qualities. (version 7.0.1, 7,0.4 & 7.1.1) and iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - BEST (but not always for short movies e.g. up to 45 minutes in total)
• Best Performances
(movies + menus less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD (Can be best for short movies)
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6)
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
Menu can take 15 minutes or even more - I use a very simple one with no audio or animation like ”Brushed Metal” in old Themes.
About double on DL DVDs.
• iDVD Does Region = Zero (to be played everywhere)
• Frame rate - DVD can be in two types PAL (25fps) and NTSC (29.97fps)
If Your material is 30fps then keep to NTSC (29.97fps), if 25fps keep to PAL.
One can feed iDVD the other frame rate - BUT RESULTING DVD WILL BE BAD
I use JES_Deinterlacer (free on Internet) to convert all material to the same and final frame rate
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Yours Bengt W

For my power shot S5IS, best camera settings for 4 X 6 prints?

for my power shot S5IS, best camera settings for 4 X 6 prints? I would like to have the best setting so when i print out the photos,i do not need to crop or trim. It is close, but i feel it can be better.

The bad news is that you can't do anything in camera to get that result. The good news is that once you understand the possibilities you'll appreciate being able to control how your prints get framed (cropped). Your camera produces images in a 3:4 ratio while a 4 X 6 is a 2:3 ratio so if you don't know in advance that you need to crop some from the top, bottom, or both to make your image fit the 2:3 ratio & frame too tightly when taking the photo you're in trouble. Learn to shoot in a way that allows cropping to match common print sizes, and find a simple editing program to crop in computer. This should be standard practice because even though you may want a 4 X 6 now down the road you might want a 5 X 7 so keep your options open.
If you don't have an editing program that easily does this & you're on a PC download Picasa which is an excellent program for this & it's free. Once you have it running select one of your existing photos, select "crop" from the menues on the first tab & then play around with the different options Picasa has built in to see the effects to your image. NOTE that it won't throw away the data outside the crop box even though it may look like it has. You always have the option to "undo crop". Once you get a result you like you "export" & create a new file cropped as seen on screen WITHOUT modifying the original file.
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Can Bridge report in-camera settings for White Balance?

No matter what settings I choose in Bridge Preferences, I cannot get it to tell me what was the White Balance (WB) setting of the camera when raw images were shot.
This seems an odd omission because Camera Raw is passed this information and displays images correctly, although it doesn't report what WB value it was given, only that what you are viewing, prior to any editing, is the default "As Shot".
I'm referring to raw files shot on my Canon 300D, Nikon D700 and Canon 5D Mark II.
Currently I'm using PsCS6 (13.0.1.2 x64), Bridge CS6 (5.0.2.4 x64) and ACR 8.1 on a Windows 7 x64 8GB system, but the same omission existed on the same Windows system with ACR 7.x in CS6 and all releases of PsCS5, Bridge CS5 and ACR 6.6 and 6.7.
On the opening dialog of Bridge Preferences, at the bottom you can choose whether or not you wish to 'Hide Empty Fields'. Selecting or unselecting this option does not have any effect upon Bridge's inability to report WB when, from within Bridge, you select File Info from the File menu or by hitting Ctrl + I.
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Preferences\Metadata\Camera Data (Exif)\White Balance; and
Preferences\Metadata\Camera Raw\White Balance
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I have been able to locate references to WB in the following tabs of File Info:
File Info\Advanced, where there appears, under the sub-tab 'Exif Properties (http://ns.adobe.com/exif/1.0)', an entry such as 'exif:White Balance:1'; and
File Info\Raw Data an entry such as '<exif:White Balance >1< /exif:White Balance>'.
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So what am I missing? Does anyone know how to make Bridge Preferences display the in-camera setting for WB, and if so, under which tab of File Info do you look for the answer once you have set up Preferences properly?
Message was edited by: Andrew_Hart
Just corrected my current Photoshop version

I'm afraid that you just haven't addressed the question that I asked in my original post.
I still like to think I have but if you for whatever reason need this info showing in the metadata you probably be better of trying to alter it your self or find a way to address Paul personally (maybe via a private message).
I have not heard from him for a long time and a small google search provided me with this forum post, hope it helps you, maybe you can also persuaded Paul to come back, he is very missed!
http://www.ps-scripts.com/bb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5508

RAW Native Camera Settings for Nikon - do they convert?

Question on RAW processing in Lightroom. Can Lightroom show ALL of the the in-camera settings (WB, saturation, etc.) selected when the shot was taken? I prefer not to have to re-cook the RAW photos from scratch on every picture. Nikon NX2 provides this option (i.e. the RAW and JPEG can look identical as starting points on your screen) which I find helpful versus dealing with uncooked RAW images to start with each time. I am considering Lightroom for lots of other good reasons but this is a threshold issue for me due to time, etc.
Would love to hear anyone's experience on this. I use a Nikon D80.
Thanks much.
Gary

Robert,
Specific camera settings,etc, are in fact stored in Nikon Nefs and can be read by NX2--or changed, if one wishes in NX2, but nowhere else, as has been stated.
Eric,
Presets, or profiles, may come close in some instances to reasonably good starting points for NEFs in LR2, so if that is all you need or use NX2 for, then your advice is reasonable.
However, at this point in time, NX2 has some distinct advantages, most notably much more advanced and faster local corrections tools than LR2 and soft proofing, to name two.
However, LR2 editing is integrated with a catalog database, and NX2 is browser based, and that may make LR2 worth the tradeoff for some users. Both, of course, offer non destructive editing.
Each has it strengths and weaknesses, so I use both to take advantage of the unique tools each offers.

Nikon camera settings for an adobe only workflow

If I use a Nikon D70, shoot raw, don't use Nikon nx, and want to import into Lightroom as dng--are there certain in-camera setting to use or avoid? Use to think only decision was whether to import as dng or nef. But if Nikon's in camera settings aren't accessible without nx, do you have to rethink all your camera settings just because you want to import into Lightroom as dng?
Thank you,
Tim

I also just convert my NEF's to DNG on import. I tried some of the presets for import, but quickly realized that all of the photos on a memory card rarely need the same things. I would also argue that most people don't choose all the optimal settings in camera (hence the advantages of RAW).
For this reason, I find my best workflow is to simply edit groups of pictures that are similar. So if I take a few pictures inside at a birthday party, I will spend a few minutes in the develop module changing my settings, and then I will simply sync, auto sync, or copy and paste all of my develop settings to the 10 other photos that have the same issues.
One note on sharpening. It supposedly is set to a decent setting by default. Check out this article:
http://www.oreillynet.com/digitalmedia/blog/2007/04/whats_with_the_number_25.html
Doug

Special camera settings for green screen

Are they any special camera settings when you shoot in Green Box???
e.g. special white balance or special iris usage??

What's a Green Box? (other than something that'll show up under my Christmas Tree sometime soon)
Patrick

What kind/size/format/color space photo for making books?

Let me make that simpler. I have Tiffs on a drive I want to drag into iPhoto to turn into a book. Should I use tiffs? Jpgs? 16 or 8 bit? RGB or sRGB? Maybe iPhoto makes them what they need to be when I order a book?
I haven't tried this at all yet so maybe there is no question at all. I'll have iPhoto 8 by the time I do this loaded in the 15" MBP
Thanks
Neil

If you already have the photos as tiffs you can use then if you'd like and save having to convert them to jpgs. As Larry pointed out the sRGB profile is recommended by Apple. I think 8 bit is sufficient. 16 bit doubles the file size and I don't think it would make any difference. The book gets created as a pdf for uploading and printing. As for size, pixel wise, the larger the better. The pdf is configured at 300 dpi so anything over that is wasted. If you plan on any full page photos then for the optimal dpi, 300, the image would be 3300 x 2550. Most of my books have been made with photos at 2816 x 2112 and I've had no problems. I've not used any one-photo-per-full-page layouts however.
However, if you're worried about disk space on your MBP then I'd convert them to jpgs as Larry suggested.
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 08 libraries and Leopard. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

Settings for making 16:9 aspect ratio from 4:3 source material

Hello,
I am trying to make a 16:9 short video from 4:3 source material but there's something wrong with the settings. The video is just stretching out to fit a 16:9 size, it isn't chopping off the top and bottom of the 4:3 size.
Here is the settings I currently have on the sequence and footage. I have the sequence set to anamorphic, in the motion tab I have the scale at 133 and under distort I have the aspect ratio set to 33.33. I've done this before with these settings and it came out fine.
I know the quality is reduced in doing this but I'm just uploading a small version to the web so the quality is fine for what I'm doing.
Thanks in advance.
Pete

Reset your Motion settings and try again. Maybe take the clip out of the sequence, then put it back in. Undo and redo motion settings, sequence settings, and clip anamorphic settings.
tim

Compression settings for making DVD in FCE

I'm sure this question must have been answered many times - but I can't seem to find anything...
I want to make DVD from FCE - I ususally make a Quick time file from QT conversion - but what settings are teh correct ones for DVD?
The project is in a mix of clips in 1920x1080 and 720x575 and the QT file I made with these settings: H264 - size: 1920x1080 looks good when played on teh computer, but when burned to a DVD with iDVD, it jumps in the DVD player .
When I make a QT file (not QT conversion), it sqeezes the dimensions down to 4:3
Any suggestions?

towanda62 wrote:
... but when burned to a DVD with iDVD, it jumps in the DVD player .
for usage with iDVD, no 'Conversion' needed, the dvd-authoring app will convert anyhow. 'Export QT movie' should do it. too much 'intermediates' doesn't add any value in DVD-making.
'jumping' usually indicates a) too high burn speed, b) 'dirty' player- or burner-head, c) 'wrong' brand of dvd-r (Verbatim has an excellent track-record here), don't use no-names.

What camera settings for best viewin on ipod?

I have the following settings: 4:3, 4608x3440 (16M) 488 frames
3:2, 4608x3072 (14M) 546 frames
16:9, 4608x2592 (12M) 646 frames
4:3, 3264x2448 (8M) 958 frames
16:9, 3072x1728 (5M) 1425 frames
4:3, 2304x1728 (4M) 1878 frames
16:9, 1920x1080 (2M) 3455 frames
I have a fujifilm jx360, 16MP camera.
I plan to put them in my 4th generation ipod touch and 1st gen iPhone.
Thanks.

It does not make any difference for the 4G iPod since iTunes optimizes the photos for the iPod, iPhone and iPad. see:
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts1314

Config settings for making Inbound delivery instead of TR

Hi,
Scenario- Plant to plant stock transfer from Non WM plant to WM enabled Plant. Material document is posted and quant lies in st type 920.
In the current system settings it creates TR automatically (Path - WM-interfaces-IM-define MVT - LE WM interface to IM - field Create TR)
Question - Instead of system creating TR, I want Inbound dely to be created. What are the config settings to be done?
Regards.

First, you need to work against Stock Transfer Purchase Orders with confirmation control 0004 - Inbound delivery for every item in the STO.
So the process steps are:
1. Create STO for plant to plant with confirmation control 0004 at item level (assuming that relevant configuration is available in MM-Purchasing)
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3. Create Inbound delivery using transaction VL31N (you can automate this if you have SAP ECC 6.0)
HTH
Baseer

Camera settings for making book

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