Can a bubble in thermal paste make CPU temp range 39ºC-60ºC?

Hello.
I've read the postits above and they say 45 ºC idle is very likely the heatsink spreader is not properly seated or the temperature is wrong.
But, what if idle temp is about 39 on the heatsink (meassured with a termometer) and the bios says CPU temp is 39? Does that mean I did well with thermal paste and heatsink? Does that mean the motherboard is reading the righ temperature?
It could look like I am asking a very easy question, but I feel it is not. Just go on reading.
I need to know if BIOS does actually provide the rigth temp because:
When the system heats up due to CPU under heavy load, CPU temp goes up to 50-55 ºC sometimes even close to 60 ºC. Could that mean there is an air bubble within the thermal paste but it is too small to interfere when cold enough (40ºC) but big enough when warm (50ºC) lowering heatsink performance and rising CPU temp up to 60 ºC?
Also sys temp is very high. It never gets below 50 ºC but I do not know where that sys temp is taken, and as I have the NB-fan connector conected to the power supply fan, I do not know what that sys temp means. :(
Room temp is around 25 ºC.
It does boot OS and I can actually play games (heavy load for graphics card and CPU). All readings I take were got from CoreCenter application at stock settings (Vcore 1.42 - FSB 201 - Mem volt 2.5 - AGP volt 1.5).
I am afraid of having done a nice job with thermal paste. I know (just read it here) I could easily fry the CPU if not, and I feel 55-60 ºC is too much, isn't it? Of course if BIOS readings are right.
BTW. Here follow details on the system:
CPU: AMD 64 3000+ NewCastle
CPU Family/Model/Step: 15.12.0
Thermal compound: Artic Silver 5
CPU Heatsink: Thermaltake Silent Boost K
Motherboard: MSI K8N Platinum
Motherboard BIOS: 1.4 (08/26/2004)
Graphics Card: Sapphire ATI Radeon 9800 SE AIW (not modded in any way)
Power Supply: Enermax 465 W [EG-465AX-VE(W)FMA]
Case: Lian Li PC-V1000
Mem, hdd, dvd-rw, floppy and D-bracket are present but did not feel necesary to provide details on them.
Thanks

Well, if your heatsink is cold and your CPU temp on BIOS is hot there are two possible reassons:
[list=1]
BIOS 1.4 does not guarantee accurate CPU temp readings
Heatsink is not properly seated on the CPU or thermal paste has bubbles within[/list=1]
But that is not my situation. I do know CPU readings are accurate when it shows 39 ºC because I actually used a termometer in contact with the heatsink to meassure it.
What I am not sure is if that accuracy is so when the CPU is hot (>50ºC) as it is when cold (

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Okay guys, As you can see here towards the bottom of the CPU there is thermal paste spilled over onto the "circuits" is this bad? Should i send it back? Or can i clean it off just like normal? thanks!

So you bought it used and this is how it came? Hmmm....this is very common; not right but common. It likely will not cause a problem. I would clean it off with a clean lintless cloth and rubbing alcohol and let it dry before installing it properly with the BB sized drop of thermal paste that should be used. I assume it came with some kind of warranty?

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Use Arctic Cooling MX-4.
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The normal range is about 30º-85ºC depending upon CPU and GPU loads. Maximum is 125ºC at which point thermal shutdown occurs (your machine will shut down.) The fans change speed with temperature according to a hard-coded table (not firmware encoded.) The older Core Duo laptops such as yours have a lower fan idle speed than the newer models. Although not supported by Apple you can install third-party software that can be used to increase the fan's idle speed - Fan Control or SMC FanControl. Use at your own risk. The subsequent laptop models now use an idle speed around 2,000 RPM which tends to keep the machines a little cooler. However, this has no effect on when the fan will ramp up to higher revs. The software only raises the idle speed.

Can/Should the North Bridge thermal paste be replaced ????

Hi to all,
I have a 865PE Neo2 LS and I was wondering if anyone have replaced the thermal paste bettwen the North Bridge chipset and it's cooler? I'm asking because I bought the Ceramique, a very good thermal compound from Artic Silver (http://www.arcticsilver.com/ceramique.htm), and I applyed it to my CPU. It gives me 42 degrees Celsius in CoreCenter at full load. My CPU is a 2.6 GHz and nothing is overclocked. So, I was wondering if I could apply it to the North Bridge.
If there is a MSI engineer reading this, could you please tell me the specs of the thermal compound used in this board or tell me if it is worth replacing it?
Regards,

I just installed the gold Zalman NB HS with Arctic Silver 5 and a paper clip. Here's how it works:
If you get a big paper clip [standard large office size] and flatten it out and then re-purpose it into the appropriate springy shape with with needle-nose pliers, you can make your own retention spring. It's a bit tricky getting it tightened up properly and sticking the pliers in there is not for the fumble-fingered -- I have to admit that my wife was doing some of the precision work at the end -- but my system has no complaints 20 minutes later with Arctic Silver in there.
I used a needlenose set of pliers (precise twisting), a standard pair of pliers (general flattening), and the wire cutters on the needlenose pliers (because the flat paper clip is much too long).
Now all I have to do is shut that darned video card up and I should be doing pretty well.
Hope it helps! (and that I've not steered you wrong as it's only been working for 20 minutes thus far...)
::Kaze (goes to run a stress test)

Thermal paste goes on the bottom or top of cpu?

Hi, managed to get thermal paste on the bottom of a socket 775 cpu, wiped it off with a dry cloth but the pc will not go. Is it buggered? or is there something i can clean it with properly? (if i hold it in the right light can still see smears on the bottom)
Thanks
Hmm maybe ill try meths while im waiting for a reply.....

Well looks like you logged off.
Anyway, I wont ask how you got paste on the wrong side.
When I am installing a previously installed cpu I use alchohol on a Q-tip to clean the Chip and the heat sink. It has never appeared to cause any damage. I would try and limit the amount used though. The board side would be the most problematic as fibers from whatever you use might remain. perhaps some compressed air after you have swabbed it would clear it out. I would get a magnifying glass and inspect it carefully to make sure NOTHING is contaminating the socket. Also there are probably some surface mounted components on the contact side of the CPU. Check carefully to make sure there is no contamination there either.
I use Arctic Alumina paste. They used to have a good instruction page with pictures at www.arcticsilver.com Take a look.
Good luck

How can I successfully reapply the thermal paste in my MacBook Pro? (2008)

I'm having issues with keeping my computer cool, mainly while playing games like SC2 that require a good amount of power. I've downloaded fan control apps, bought cooling pads (usb powered) and still no luck in cooling this thing down. I recently learned that Apple for some reason applies the thermal paste too thick, which can cause the computers to be a lot hotter than they should be.
I'm not worried about voiding warranty, seeing as I don't even have a warranty. I've already opened it up to upgrade the ram and the hard drive so I know my way around inside there and have the stuff I need in order to do it properly.
What I need to know is where I can get the thermal paste, what kind I need, how it needs to be applied and with what (as well as how to get the old paste off), the steps I need to take in order to get to where this paste is even at inside the computer...etc.
If there's anyone who's already successfully pulled this off, lemme know how you did it and if it helped any. I've read there've been significant temp drops since reapplying it in a lot of these pros, so I'm just interested.

Hi
I’ve yet to remove the heatsinks of the CPU and GPU on my MBP. But I’ve replaced CPU and GPU heatsinks on my PC many times, so hopefully you’ll find my suggestions helpful.
1st use the laptop for a bit to get both the CPU and GPU warmed up so it will be easier to remove the heatsinks.
Remove the back cover and run your hands over the back side of the metal cover few time to get ride of any static charge that might be there (or any unprinted metal surface will do).
Remove the screws and heatsink one at a time. You might find the thermal past dried up (happens when company used cheap past and after computer is used for few years). Use tissues to wipe the past off both cores and heasinks.
You can also buy thermal past remover and clearer such as this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Silver-ArctiClean-Material-Purifier/dp/B000BKP306 /ref=pdbxgy_computers_textb
I normally use Arctic Silver Thermal Paste, I found it's the best past around, and everybody I know are happy with it.
There are two ways to apply the past. If your CPU is a Core2Duo, than you can just put a little bit on the center and press down with the heatsink. This is because the 2 cores on the CPU are located near the center of the processor so it does not matter if the edges are not covered with past.
Or if you want to play safe, you can cover the enter CPU with an even thin lay of past using a flat plastic card.
When it comes to thermal past, less is more, you only want little bit to cover up the metal cover on the processor. I say no more than 0.5 mm thick.
Cover the entire GPU with past as well, I’m not sure if the RAMs on your graphic card are cooled by the heatsinks. If they are, you might need some thermal pads for them.
You’ll find the whole process quite easy as long as you take your time. You can found lots of info on this with Google and Youtube.
Good luck and don’t forget to give the heatsinks a clean with a can of compassed air before you put them back on.

Whether or not to change stock thermal paste on early 2009 unibody 17" MBP CPU?

I have a first generation (early 2009) unibody 17" MBP, now out of warranty / Apple Care. It's been working fine in general, however I've been increasingly concerned about the CPU temps when I encode with Hand Brake, and some times when doing things in VMWare (Win XP) and in OS X at the same time. Under those two sets of circumstances, my CPU temp (as read out by iStat Menus 3) routinely hits 100 C. (I've never seen it hotter than 102 - 103, it'll hang around 100 for a while, then eventually cool down to mid 90's as a new equilibrium seems to be reached. Will hang there until the processor intensive task is done, then quickly cool off.) Generally idles in the 40's.
I've looked and looked, and found no reassuring consensus on whether or not changing the stock Apple glob of thermal grease for a thin application of Arctic Silver will help this situation. I've found as many no's as yes's on the matter, and about as many different views on the details of MBP cooling as posters expressing them.
So, what I'm really looking for is whether or not anyone's collected a lot of data points on the subject, and can paint any sort of trend based upon a large denominator of users reporting their experiences. I did find links to a website that apparently did this in 2005, or thereabouts, but all those links are dead, and that was well before the dawn of the unibody anyway.
Was wondering if anyone knew of a source of knowledge on this issue that draws from more than educated hypothesis, or one's own experiences.
I'm already planning on routinely jacking up the fan speeds when doing these CPU heavy tasks, and I elevate the computer off the table to help with ventilation. Also, I've seen several people say that the CPU was made to handle these temps, however, I looked at the Intel data sheets on these processors (<http://download.intel.com/design/mobile/datashts/32012001.pdf>, page 102), and the max tjunction temp is 105C, which I'm getting awfully close to whenever I encode.
Thank you!
early 2009 17" MBP (very good condition)
2.93 Core 2 Duo
8 GB RAM
750 GB HD
latest Lion

I say go for it. About a year ago I had to replace the fan system on my old Dell i8200. To do that I had to take the complete system apart. So while I had everything out of the case, laying there in pieces/parts (including taking the heatsink system completely off the CPU/GPU) I cleaned everything and applied Arctic Silver to both CPU/GPU. System ran cooler then the first day I took it out of the box new.
Personally I would disregard the comment above. Yes you can use WAY to Much thermal paste but if you cover the complete CPU with a thin even layer (even if it is a little to much) it will still work fine, as long as you move the heatsink around when resetting it to even it all out.
From reports from other Mac users, the one that have Baked there logic boards to fix the 2008 NVidia problem that Apple refuses to stand up for, that when they took there systems apart there was thermal paste everywhere. Clearly Apple assemblers think that if a little is good a whole bunch is better. Which isn't the case. But what do they care. The assemblers need something like Macdonald's has for dispensing Ketchup. One squirt and you always get the same amount.
Go For It.
Good Luck.

Can someone tell me how to make a bubble appear?

I would like to make a mouse over type of button that makes a bubble appear could you please tell me where I can find the code to paste into the snippet to make it happen? or how else I can do it?
Thank you
Mireille

Hi Mireille,
"Je ne savais pas que tu parlais si bien français" c'est la langue la quelle je parles moins bien des quatre langues dans mon repertoire (Italien, allemand, anglais)... Mais j'arrive à me débrouiller... Le problème c'est que si quelqu'un écris en français ici je crois que je suis le seule qui sache répondre et je n'arrive pas à répondre à tous le question nonplus (même chose avec l'italien et l'allemand). En plus peut être que aussi quelqu'un d'autre a la même question mais il ne comprends pas le français et si je réponds en français ça ne lui ser à rien...
So the code is working as you can see on this page (just a testing page so it will disappear in a few days I guess...)
http://alyeska.altervista.org/test/Welcome/Welcome.html
Go with the mouse pointer on the little blue image with mountains and lake and the rollover effect will show a hello on the bottom right. Click and you will get to my website. Everything working...
href="yoursite/yourpage is the url of the page you want to get the visitors to when they click on the image. If you don't want to use it as a link just don't put anything there...
If you publish to a folder, like I do. You still have to put the images to the server separately (basically same as publishing to .mac). The why... Is because you have to provide the url for the images in the script/code. And because you can't put them in the html-snippet. Code is code and where code is code is needed. And url is code... If not it wouldn't work.
I hope that helped...
Regards,
Cédric

Did you guys change the thermal paste of the CPU/GPU?

I saw lots of my friends change to IC DAIMOND thermal paste but in the end their GPU still go BOOM and burned.
Is it worth it ? because i do not know how to apply it and i dont want to void my warranty as well

I replaced my GE70 with IC Diamond. Seems to be working great after 4 months. Like Chiyawa mentions, you should be cleaning the fan, vents, and other dusty areas on a regular basis. I clean mine at least every month if not every 2 weeks. Just helps keep everything clean. But using the Cooler Boost certainly helps. I rarely run games without using that. Not a single glitch.
But in all fairness, I don't game all the time. Maybe 10+ hours per week. I also added 2 mSata drives and replaced the HDD with a Samsung 830 256gb ssd. I think this helps a lot with speed, weight, heat, and functionality of the laptop too. Was a no brainer. While I was in there to replace the drives, that's when I replaced the thermo with IC Diamond and also upgraded the Wifi to AC. Tried the killer but the AC was a tad bit faster.

Thermal paste for i7 3930k to Nuctua CPU cooler?

I'm considering using Arctic silver 5 as the thermal interface between my 3930k and Nuctua NH-DI4 SE 2011 cooler. Is Arctic silver 5 a good choice? (The 3930k will be overclocked).
I was to use Liquid Ultra , but Coolaboratory somehow botched my order, so it might not arrive for some weeks now.
A store nearby store has Arctic silver 5 in stock, and I could pick some up today, if it's a suitable thermal paste for my build.

That is what I bought when I built my computer... older, so mine is not a 3930, but the paste still works well
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100007
With over 5 thousand people giving it 5 of 5 "eggs" I would say it is very good

MacBook Pro (mid 2010, 15", i5) - heat, thermal paste and genius bar...

Hi all,
I'd like some advice. I own a mid 2010 core i5 15" MBP which I purchased when they were released (April 2010 or something like that). Since then the laptop has worked more or less OK but it's always been plagued with high temperatures, 75C+ in idle... with basically nothing running or something light such as just Safari (*without* Flash, as I only open Chrome when a website I need doesn't work without Flash; everywhere else, for example YouTube etc, I just use the HTML5 version of the players). The fans stay almost always at 6K rpm, and only rarely they run at a lower speed - when for example I switch the laptop on after having left it switched off for a while, etc. So the fans seem to work OK and seem to respond to the temperature; I have even tried resetting SMC several times, but no difference.
It just looks like the CPU runs hotter than it should. I have default energy saving settings, and don't have any software installed that may keep the CPU running high - such as Caffeine, SmartSleep, etc. Anyway, even a clean install of the OS (Lion) won't make any difference. If I leave the laptop switched off for a while and I switch it on again, within a minute or two the temperature is high again even if I don't open anything else. Even if in the activity monitor there's nothing using a lot of CPU. The temperature also does go further up if I run something CPU intensive such as Handbrake.
While the laptop has worked almost always OK (I do think that some freezes or other occasional stability issues may also depend on temperature), I don't think it's running as well as it could / should from a temperature point of view.
I have read lots of discussions in here and elsewhere, and from direct experience with other laptops (Apple and not) in the past, I believe the issue may likely be related to poor application of the thermal paste. I could re-apply it (for example the AS5 or similar) myself very easily, but I don't want to void the warranty.
I have the 3-years Apple Care, but I have never needed to ask Apple for support before, so I don't know how it works.
Sorry for the lengty introduction... here's the questions:
- Can I just go to the nearest Apple Store (London, Regent St.) or am I *required* to book an appointment with the "genius" bar?
- Is it likely they will take into consideration my advice to reapply the thermal paste as this is quite likely the source of the problem?
- What is the likelihood that they may just replace my laptop with a newer one?
- Does the AppleCare entitle me with some particular privileges for what concerns support?
- I have also upgraded the RAM to 8GB a few months ago, and replaced the HDD (which I use as external drive) with an SSD. Do I need to restore the original components in the laptop before going to the AppleStore? Or is this not needed since RAM and HDD are user-replaceable parts?
Thanks a lot in advance for your help!
Vito

Hello V-MA!
I found this webpage: http://osx86.wikidot.com/known-issues#toc1
by googeling for "com.apple.NVDAResman"
Probably you have to remove the Geforce Grafic drivers as discribed here. But please wait until some others in the forum confirm this.
If you don't understand how to do these commands with Terminal, ask once again for help.
In your message you did not metion, that you just updated 1 hour and something your OS ("System uptime in nanoseconds: 6688834587150"). This is an important information.
marek

Early 2011 MacBook Pro- The thermal paste discussion.

It is my goal to clear up the questions and concerns Apple customers have been having regarding heat or fan related concerns with Early 2011 MacBook Pros. If your MacBook Pro was produced within the last few months the thermal issue has been resolved and it will likely not be in issue for you. If you are still wondering if your computer is effected or what the real issue is keep reading.
The MacBook Cools itself by 2 main methods: active and passive. The active cooling is via a fan that blows air through a heatsync and into a tube called a heat pipe which leads to the back of the computer where the hot air is discharged through a vent at the bottom of the screen behind the hinge. The fan lowers the air pressure inside the case causing outside air is drawn in the case, displacing the hot air inside and helping to cool the other components.
The computer uses passive cooling to remove the residual heat from the processor which comes mostly in the form of radiant heat. Passive cooling is also used to cool the other components of the computer (memory, disk drives, battery etc). Passive cooling works by conductive heat transfer ie. syncing to the case of the computer. Some of the heat then is radiated. Some of it is transferred from the outside of the case via convective cooling; the foot pads on the bottom cover are designed to raise it up just enough to allow air underneath for convection to occur. (Convection is the process in which hot air to rises and is displaced by cooler air.) The rest of the heat from the bottom cover is absorbed by whatever surface you have the computer on.
The processor will not sync to the case very much if the board is assembled properly however the other components of the computer will, requiring the case to be in open air to allow for passive cooling to take place.
If you have some sort of covering such as a plastic snap on case it will likely interfere with passive cooling in all of it's 3 of it forms, this will cause the computer to be abnormally hot. I recently saw someone in the Apple store with a MacBook Air experiencing abnormal heating due to a plastic snap case so this particular problem is not unique to MacBook Pros and it is not the cause of the issue being discussed here. I do not recommend the use or anything that covers the computer while it is running with the exception of something that covers the back of the display panel only. If you are worried about your computer getting damaged go and buy a laptop insurance policy from Worth Ave group. The insurance does not cover cosmetic damage or misplaced items but will cover accidental damage including spills. This insurance also covers theft, vandalism and natural disasters, is quite inexpensive and the claims process and deductible is similar to most phone insurance plans (which they also offer).
User induced overheating can also occur when the computer is placed on an improper surface such as a couch cushion, car seat, bed, pillow etc. Doing this can interfere with both passive and active cooling.
As I mentioned earlier In all likelihood if your computer was produced after May it is not affected. I personally have been in posession of 3 MacBook Pros, one produced before May which had the problem, one after which had no problems and one produced more recently that has mind blowing thermal performance way beyond all of my expectations.
So the question at this point is exactly what is the problem, how can it be diagnosed and how can it be rectified.
After extensive research and testing I have determined the issue to be related to improper application thermal paste. I involuntarily became involved in this pursuit as a result of the problems I was experiencing and I did not initially come at from an objective viewpoint but rather one of cautious skepticism. I had anticipated before purchasing my computer that there may be a thermal issue. This anticipaion came as a result of reading an article on ifixit.com about the disassembly of the brand new early 2011 MacBook Pro. When the technician performing the disassembly removed the main heat sync he expressed concern about how much much thermal paste was present, expressing that it seemed excessive. This lead the technician to question wether or not it would cause heating problems.
Proper application of thermal paste is critical to the functionality of the active cooling system and when applied improperly will not properly transfer the heat to the heat-sync which in turn gets cooled by the fan. Proper application of thermal paste insures the heat is removed from the case as efficiently as possible. Doing this both reduces the speed at which the fan needs to run in a lot of situations and prevents too much heat from the processor needing to be cooled by passive means. If is is not applied properly it will eventually lead to overheating of the case as well as the other components of the computer. This can cause damage firstly to the computer's battery and can also significantly shorten the life computer. (Or any other kind of electronic device for that matter.)
The problem can be diagnosed by testing the computer using a program called System Load or any other software that will put your computers proscessor use up to its maximum and keep it there indefinitely. Placing full load on your GPU at the same time during the test is also recommended. Keep in mind, if you are using your computer the fan will spin up if needed for additional cooling. You should expect the fan go up to its maximum speed during the test, it is not in of itself an indication of a negative result. Make sure to have the computer plugged in, fully charged and on a proper surface. A desk or other flat surface should be fine. Exceptions would include the top of a refrigerator since it has insulation just underneath the metal exterior or any surface that is heated by any means such as a dryer or other appliance.
(The temps to follow are in ºF)
Run the test for up to 1 hour. If the case of the computer breaks 93 degrees your unit is likely affected. Expect the unit to even possibly reach temps approaching and exceeding 100º, if this happens immediately abort the test. Also look for the processor temp shooting up to around 180 in the first 30 seconds and the fan spinning up right away. Typically on a properly functioning unit the temperature of the case will end up being somewhere in the neighborhood of 88-91º. If this test is preformed in a room with a normal ambient room temperature of about 68 degrees. Even after an hour the case of the computer should not be significantly hot, just warm to the touch. On a normally operating unit the fan will start to kick in within 90 seconds or so and may not reach full speed even after several minuets.
At one point the case of my computer actually reached 95º during normal web browsing.
This is a problem that I have had successfully corrected twice by reapplication of thermal paste. The first time was on a machine produced prior to may and the second was after a logic board was replaced at the repair depot. (I suspect the inventory turnover is lower for boards than whole computers resulting in a board from the initial production run being installed in my computer.)
If you forget everything I just wrote remember this. #1 if you are using your computer hard enough the fan will end up running at high speed at some point. #2 This problem is not in any way related to the design of the MacBook Pro, or its use/application. #3 This mostly not a problem of the CPU being too hot; these Sandy Bridge CPUs are rated for 212ºf and will routinely be in the neighborhood of 200º, this is hotter than other chips but well within design limits. #4 I have done everything in my power to make sure that this problem has been corrected and I have every logical and evidenced based reason to believe it has been resolved in machines produced after may. #5 This is not an Apple acknolidged issue. Technicians will tell you that there is no problem because these higher temps are normal and within operating limits and if they weren't the machine would shut itself off. (This is a bit extreme; just like a lot of other devices such as electronics, toaster ovens and space heaters with thermal overload protection this automatic shutoff is intended to occur when damage or risk of fire is imminent because the device is WAY outside of normal operating paramaters.) They will also not tell you when asked what these limits are, that they know what they are or in some cases that such figures they even exsist.
I stake my personal and professional reputation on the accuracy of my findings, it is my job as a private consultant to help my clients to resolve complicated and expensive issues just like this one.
Bottom line if you are having a problem and Apple won't fix it on warranty don't ditch your machine, just pay to have it done yourself. In most cases you can pay have it done at the Apple store. It will probably cost you less than 100.00, and it will not void your warranty as long as the work is done by Apple certified technician. It will be well worth it; after all in spite of this MacBook Pro's are hands down the best portable computers on the market, with an industry leading warranty and support to back it up. On it's worst day Apple's service and support is better than any computer/ consumer electronics company, even on its best day.
I hope this helps to clarify this issue! I also hope it will help anyone affected to resolve the problem instead of resorting to a refund and settling for something else.

hello all
you can try this:
Go to system preferences > settings > built in display > see bottom of window.
check "show mirroring options in the menu bar when available". then click "airplay display" > and select your device.
That's what happened to my MBP - 15-inch, Late 2011 model.

Laptop doesn't turn on after re-assembly and replacing thermal paste. Please help!

Hi,
I hope anyone can help me. I took apart my laptop HP HDX16 to replace thermal paste and clean up the fan. I did everything very carefully as showed in manual. I cleaned the old paste and pads off and replaced thermal paste but not the pads as someone in the store suggested that there is no need for putting pads and that the thermal compound is enough to have it on there. I left only one pad on the heat sink in place where it services Northbridge as it was in good condition. On the Northbridge itself I put thermal compound as well as on the GPU and CPU. I put back every screw and connected each cable as it was before (I am pretty sure about it). I was quite happy with my job but after I tried to turn the computer on it wouldn't start at all. Did I do something wrong? Please help me because I don't have any idea what to do now.

I am a little confused here, it sounds like you removed all the thermal pads except for one, if this is so, you need to put all the thermal pads back in place.
Anyways aside from that, if you plug the adapter in you will have a steady light where it plugs into the laptop. The light will always be on whether the machine is booted up or not.
If you don't have a steady light then you need to check the DC receptor where it plugs into the MoBo. Sometimes a cable may look like it's fully seated, but isn't. It still will boot up with the battery in place even if the DC jack plug is not correctly seated.
Check the small ribbon cable on the power button board where it connects into the MoBo.
Check that the processor is correctly aligned with it's key and that the locking mechanism is fully locked.
Make sure the RAM is seated correctly.
If these suggestions sound obvious, I have to start some where.
The problem here is that only you can help your self because you disassembled you machine, I can only make suggestions as what you may have missed and obviously something was missed.
If your thinking that you incorrectly applied the thermal paste, then that's not the problem. Even if there were no thermal pads or paste in place, the machine would still boot up, but it would heat up very quickly.
If the fan plug was plugged in incorrectly you would get a message in the BIOS upon boot up saying that the fan has a problem and it would shut down, but it sound like it's not even getting that far.
There is also a secondary fan that is used to cool the hard drive bays, check that plug as well. You may not get a BIOS message if this fan is not plugged in.
Here is the HP Media Services Library, you may find it helpful. Make sure you're signed in before clicking on the link.
http://h20574.www2.hp.com/default.htm?lang=en&cc=US&hpappid=psml
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FYI: Fixing your own Thermal Paste Problem

If you "fix" the thermal grease .. umm... abundance yourself, per AppleCare you void your warranty.
So if your cutting tape/removing noticable ammounts of paste, yes you warranty technically no longer exists.
HOWEVER, you can open up your MacMini and upgrade ram, HDD, etc. and they are cool with that.
Why I don't really know. It's a shame too, because I have my whole little set of tools and ArcticSilver 5 plus cleaner and solvent ready to go. Perhaps if everyone sends in the MBP for repair on this issue they will allow individuals to fix their own machines to reduce the load? Doubtfull.

Mr. PurplePirate,
I again must disagree with you. As far as apple is concerned this modification (not "opening the case") voids the warranty. As per the terms and conditions of said warranty they have final say.
All that being the case even if this ONLY voids say the logic board warranty, yea still no thanks.
Also your analogy is incorrect:
Tere is a good bit of established case law on this topic, especially from auto manufacturers attempting to deny warranty claims because of aftermarket modifications to their cars, however, just as with computers, the manufacturer must demonstrate that the particular modification caused the failed or defective product.
Do you think apple is going to take the time to demonstrate that fixing the thermal paste isnt what damaged your CPU 8 months later? Or that the fact the heat is now dissapating differently inside of your case than as designed (yes the gobs are to design spec) that the DVD rom, or RAM, or Hard Drive failing couln't have been caused by that? No, they arent. They are going to say item (e) says you cant change design, well you did. Tough.
Also unlike a car say that after your fix the CPU fails. You cant just gob on the paste then send it back in for repair and have them be all ahh okay now theres thermal paste to spec, lets fix this. No.
Trust me I have been dealing with this individual at apple for a few months now on various items, he knows what he is talking about, and he knows what resouces to check.
I honestly don't care what others do to their machines. I for one am not going to make any changes w/out written permission from Apple or have Apple resolve the problem themself. This machine is too critical to me, my education, and my business flat out. Yes it gets hot as ****, but it works and if the current design end up burning out the CPU in a year and a half, the warranty is there and they have to fix it.

Can a bubble in thermal paste make CPU temp range 39ºC-60ºC?

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