Can't Get Management Screens With Browser to work.
I open up my web browser and open a new page and enter: 192.168.1.1 but instead of being prompted for a user/password all I get is that the browser can't find the page.
I HAD the management pages up for almost two weeks now (after somehow getting logged on) but now I'm having the same problem. I've talked to someone online who says my router is defective. Is he right or is there some other secret in order to get this to work correctly?
To view the router's web pages:
Use Internet Explorer, it usually works.
JavaScript must be enabled.
Use a computer that is wired to the router.
In the non-working computer, temporarily turn off your software firewall.
If you are using Zone Alarm, right click on the ZA icon in the system tray (lower right corner of screen) and then click "Shutdown ZoneAlarm", and see if this fixes your problem. If this does not work, try the following with Zone Alarm: Open the ZAISS control center, go to Privacy, then temporarily turn off Ad Blocking and Cookie Control, and see if that fixes your problem.
If you are using Noton Internet Security with the Add-on Pack, be sure to turn off the Pop-up Blocker. Some users have reported that they needed to uninstall the entire Norton Add-on Pack.
If you cannot get anything at 192.168.1.1 then perhaps this is not your router's address. Go to "Start" > All Programs > Accessories > Command Prompt.
A black DOS box will appear. Type in "ipconfig" (with no quotes), then hit the Enter key. Look at the "Default Gateway". Is it 192.168.1.1 ? Point your browser to the "Default Gateway", then login to your router.
If the above fails, disconnect your modem from the router, and try again. If this corrects your problem, then most likely you have a "modem-router" rather than an ordinary modem. Check to see if your "modem-router" is using the same 192.168.1.x address space as your Linksys router. If it is, then report back with this problem, and also state the make and model of your modem-router.
If all of the above fails, power down your entire system, unplug it from the wall, wait one minute, then power up and try again.
If all of the above tips fail, you need to reset the router to factory defaults. Power down the router and disconnect all wires from it. Wait one minute. Power up the router, allow it to fully boot (1-2 minutes), then press and hold the reset button for 30 seconds, then release the button and allow the router to reset and reboot ( 2-3 minutes). Power down router. Wait one minute. Connect one computer, by wire, to a LAN port on the router. Boot up system. It should work.
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Do the following:
1. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
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2. Reinstall Snow Leopard
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Will not turn on or screen remains dark
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If I can't get rid of tabbed browsing I guess I'll muddle along with an older version.Digital_Gaia:
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I can't get volume on Main Output to work correctly with controllers on my keyboard. It's either all on or all off. Works fine for individual instruments (thought it lumps them all together) but not for main volume output on concert. Thanks for any help.
Hi
frodojon wrote:
I either didn't do the correct mapping sequence before or I'm starting to wonder if it has something to do with my keyboard which has the expression pedal set to the same volume control as the mod wheel.
All this sounds like you are confused about the general nature of MIDI Continuous Controllers (MIDI CC). The MIDI specification allows for 128 different CC's: CC0 to CC127. Some are typically "preallocated" to 'standard functions: CC1= Modulation, CC7=Volume, CC10+Pan, CC11= 'Expression'. Some act as switches such as 'Sustain' CC64.
frodojon wrote:
Everything appears to be scaled from -63 to +64 if that's what you mean by scaling? What do you mean by MIDI CC7?
Mainstage works with MIDI CC's generally in a number of ways:
Some standard ones are automatically passed through to all MIDI/Instrument channels unless you specifically block them. Others are not passed through unless you specifically map them to something.
This mapping can be done basically two ways (with MS 2.2):
a) Make a Screen Control in Layout mode, and assign it to a particular incoming MIDI CC message. Then, you can map this Screeen Control to a variety of parameters such as the volume of a particular channel strip.
b) With MS 2.2, you can do the above Assign and Mapping directly, without the need for Screen Controls as an 'intermediary'.
frodojon wrote:
something to do with my keyboard which has the expression pedal set to the same volume control as the mod wheel. I
Yes.
It sounds to me like you have an issue where you have several hardware controls on your Keyboard set up to transmit the same MIDI CC. This is probably not a good idea, and it would be much better if you assigned them to transmit different CC messages (CC1 for Modulation and probably CC11 for the Expression (though you may want to set the pedal to some other number instead.
Once you are transmitting different CC messages, you will be able to Assign and Map much more flexibly:
for example, you could one to control the overall output volume at Concert Level in MS, whilst the other controls the volume of a specific channel within a Patch.
Your issue of layered patches is one of "Scaling": one Screen Control (assigned to an incoming MIDI CC message) needs to alter the ranges of different channel strips to different amounts. You can set this up by using multiple mappings for one Control, each set to work over a particular range (for example a goes from -20 to 0 whilst b goes from -30 to -20 etc.).
hth
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Fastest way is by contatcing support. This is because youc an't reset the questions on your end if you forgot the original answers.
https://expresslane.apple.com/
Follow these steps:
All Products and Services > iTunes > iTunes Store > Account Management > iTunes Store account security
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On start up I get grey screen with wheel turning but it goes no further
On start up I get grey screen with wheel turning but it goes no further
Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, boot from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 10. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.
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